Makespace - User contributions [en]

Equipment/Power Tools

2014-04-16T07:05:08Z

Domtheo:

{{OrangeTool}}

= General Health and Safety =

The term "power tool" in all of the warnings listed below refers to mains-operated (corded) power tool or battery-operated (cordless) power tool.

== Work area safety ==
* Keep work area clean and well lit. Cluttered and dark areas invite accidents.
* Do not operate power tools in explosive atmospheres, such as in the presence of flammable liquids, gases or dust. Power tools
create sparks which may ignite the dust or fumes.
* Keep children and bystanders away while operating a power tool. Distractions can cause you to lose control.

== Electrical Safety ==
* Power tool plugs must match the outlet. Never modify the plug in any way. Do not use any adapter plugs with earthed (grounded) power tools. Unmodified plugs and matching outlets will reduce risk of electric shock.
* Avoid body contact with earthed or grounded surfaces such as pipes, radiators, ranges and refrigerators. There is an increased risk of electric shock if your body is earthed or grounded.
* Do not expose power tools to rain or wet conditions. Water entering a power tool will increase the risk of electric shock.
* Do not abuse the cord. Never use the cord for carrying, pulling or unplugging the power tool. Keep cord away from heat, oil, sharp edges or moving parts. Damaged or entangled cords increase the risk of electric shock [http://digiadvertise.wordpress.com/2014/04/07/jasa-seo-di-jakarta Jasa seo], [http://digiadvertise.wordpress.com/2014/04/07/jasa-seo-di-jakarta Jasa seo jakarta].
* When operating a power tool outdoors, use an extension cord suitable for outdoor use. Use of a cord suitable for outdoor use reduces the risk of electric shock.

== Personal Safety ==
* Stay alert, watch what you are doing and use common sense when operating a power tool.
* Do not use a power tool while you are tired or under the influence of drugs, alcohol or medication. A moment of inattention while operating power tools may result in serious personal injury.
* Use safety equipment. Always wear eye protection. Safety equipment such as dust mask, non-skid safety shoes, hard hat, or hearing protection used for appropriate conditions will reduce personal injuries.
* Avoid accidental starting. Ensure the switch is in the off-position before plugging in. Carrying power tools with your finger on the switch or plugging in power tools that have the switch on invites accidents.
* Remove any adjusting key or wrench before turning the power tool on. A wrench or a key left attached to a rotating part of the power tool may result in personal injury.
* Do not overreach. Keep proper footing and balance at all times. This enables better control of the power tool in unexpected situations.
* Dress properly. Do not wear loose clothing or jewellery. Keep your hair, clothing, and gloves away from moving parts. Loose clothes, jewellery or long hair can be caught in moving parts.
* If devices are provided for the connection of dust extraction and collection facilities, ensure these are connected and properly used.

= Power Tools =
[[File:Cordless drill.PNG|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/BDF453RFE|Makita 18V Li-on Cordless Drill]]

[[File:Jigsaw.PNG|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/Jigsaw|Makita 18V Li-on Cordless Jigsaw]]

[[File:Charger.JPG|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/MakitaCharger|Makita DC18RC Li-Ion Charger]]

[[File:Router.JPG|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/MakitaRouter|Mikita 900W Router]]

[[File:Ixo_screwdriver.JPG|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/Bosch_IXO|Bosch IXO IV Cordless Screwdriver]]

[[File:Mac_Allister_Li-Ion_Cordless_Screwdriver.PNG|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/Mac_Allister_Li-Ion_Cordless_Screwdriver|Mac Allister Li-Ion Cordless Screwdriver
]]

[[File:Dremel.JPG|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/Dremel|Dremel]]

[[File:Bosh Sander.JPG|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/BoschSander|Bosch Orbital Sander]]

[[File:Makita_9911.JPG|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/Makita9911|Makita 9911 Belt Sander]]

[[File:Belt_Disc_Sander.jpg|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Disc and belt Sander]]

[[File:ScrollSaw.jpg|thumb|200px|none|link=Equipment/AxminsterScrollSaw|Scroll Saw]]

Induction

2014-04-16T07:04:07Z

Domtheo:

This is a temporary induction page, to be replaced by the membership web app under development.

== Pre induction ==

# If you haven’t already, come and see Makespace during one of our open events which happen frequently – choose one on [meetup.makespace.org]. (Note that events where it’s possible to meet Makespace are clearly marked on the Meetup group; you need to attend a public event where there are Members available and willing to show you around, or with an existing member who can show you around. This is important as we want you to know what you’re going to get, and as all members get 24/7 access to Makespace, we need to know who we are giving keys to!
# Book an induction using our [http://makespace-induction.herokuapp.com/ Sign up app].
# When you attend your induction, please bring:
##Payment debit/credit card if you haven't already paid
##A laptop (if possible)
##A photo (of yourself!) (if possible)

== The induction ==

This happens at makespace, and will involve the following:

# If you've arrived at the induction without yet signing up to our [http://makespace-induction.herokuapp.com/ Sign up app] you should first enter your details in to that system.
# You read [http://makespace.org/membership/membership-agreement/members-safety-briefing/ The safety briefing]
# You read [http://makespace.org/membership/membership-agreement/membership-rules/ The rules]
# If you have not already done so, set up your [https://makespace.recurly.com/subscribe/makespace-membership-full payment details]
# Completion of the [http://bit.ly/makespace-induction members safety checklist]
# Completion and signing of the supplied form which includes your [http://makespace.org/index.php/sample-page/membership/membership-agreement/ Membership agreement]
# If you have not verified your address, please write your address on the supplied envelope for address verification purposes [http://www.tokobungasabana.com Toko bunga online], [http://www.tokobungasabana.com Toko bunga], [http://www.grosir-kosmetik.com/62-glutera.html Glutera], [http://vamostech.com/gps-tracking Gps tracking mobil], [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Toko+Bunga+Sabana+florist+jakarta+online/@-6.1580706,106.8197481,18z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x2e69f5e01968edd9:0xc4f50a252da8fe0f?hl=en-US Toko bunga jakarta].
# You recieve your keyfob
# You are now a full makespace member and have full access to the space! (If you have not yet verified your address, your keyfob will be activated after verification is complete.)

Equipment/Glassworking

2014-04-16T07:01:53Z

Domtheo:

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment]] / Glassworking

[[File:8633913103_92f52a697d_c.jpg|thumb|320px|right]]

= Glassworking - General =

== Summary ==

This is a kiln and hot torch to work with soft glass - fusing and forming rather than blowing although if there's interest in the latter let us know!

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

== Owners ==

* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]
* Renee Chow
* [[User:ST|ST]]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE GLASS KILN AND TORCH IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the glass kiln and torch and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training|Glassworking Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

'''[[Formal Risk Assessment: Glassworking]]'''

Glassworking involves both sharp, fragile raw materials and extreme heat. Most risks are obvious - sharp glass can cut you, and the hot torch and kiln can both burn. There are, however, a few non-obvious risks to be aware of:

# When working with the flame your glass will be glowing red hot or hotter, but very shortly after you put a rod down to work with something else the glass will cool to be visually indistinguishable from glass at room temperature. It may at this point still be hundreds of degrees centigrade! Do not pick anything up while someone is working at the torch without asking, you like your skin and want to keep it.
# Glass rods can stress-crack at the tip when heated. Point rods away from you and always wear eye protection - the glass won't travel far but you don't want it in your eyes.
# Some substances release toxic gases when heated to high temperatures
# For glass fusing, use glass that is designed for fusing. Please check the COE and compatibility of your glass.
# Please do not place flammable items near (<12 inches) the kiln. Please do not move the kiln closer to the walls.
# Wear dark grey safety glasses provided when looking into the kiln. Wear the blue safety glasses when working with the flame.
# Do not breathe in fine powders. Wear a dusk mask when mixing shelf primer, reapplying kiln shelf etc.
# Wear eye protection when cutting glass. Please clean surfaces afterwards with a damp paper towel. The tiny glass shards you get when you cut glass may be invisible to the eye but can be dangerous if it gets in your eyes [http://www.awanirentcar.com Sewa mobil jakarta], [http://www.tokobungasabana.com Toko bunga jakarta], [http://www.tokobungasabana.com Toko bunga], [http://www.goldenfibreglass.com/product-atap-fiberglass.php Atap fiberglass], [http://www.raywhitesemarang.com Properti semarang].

Other risks will be covered during training - working with hot glass is perfectly safe as long as basic procedures are followed.

== Equipment ==

Our kiln is a Paragon SC2 kiln with an included bead door and window. This kiln includes a controller capable of multi-step programs with controlled rate heat up and cool down cycles. It has a maximum temperature of 1100 degrees centigrade, enough to fire some metal clays and work with most kinds of glass, but not enough to act as a metal furnace. There's an instruction booklet to use both in the box below the table.

In addition to the kiln we have a HotHead gas torch, along with the appropriate connection kit to run off bulk Propane gas rather than the normal MAPP cylinders (these burn slightly hotter, but are much more expensive as they're not available in larger quantities). The torch is mounted on a height and angle adjustable stand suitable for bead work when sitting on the low stool that should be lurking around the glassworking station.

For bead working we have a variety of mandrels, bead release that can be cooked in the flame and a wedge shaped graphite marver. Also a pot of vermiculite to slowly cool your beads so they won't break.

For art glass and strip-work we have a set of cutting tools along with a slump mould for making very small (9x9cm) glass bowls. Plus Bullseye GlasTac for sticking your pieces of glass together before you put them into the kiln. Please use only glue that is safe to heat to high temperatures - superglue, for example, should NOT be used as it releases cyanide gas (yikes!) when heated to high temperatures

It is important that these tools remain exclusively used for glass, please resist the temptation to use the cutters, pliers etc for other materials!

== Glass Stock ==

We have a selection of glass rod, sheet, stringer and frit.

The large pots of glass are bought as a random selection for about ten pounds per pot, they consist of offcuts of bullseye COE90 (coefficient of expansion, only important in as much as all glass in a particular piece should have the same number to prevent explosions!) in various thicknesses. Bullseye COE90 glass will tend to form 6mm thick sheets due to surface tension so stack your strip-work to that height.

In addition to this we have a small amount of specific colours of bullseye COE90 glass currently in clear 9x9cm sheets and larger plates of Makespace colours. We can buy at a discount from a couple of online suppliers even when ordering small quantities (a side effect of buying all the kiln and other hardware in one go!) so post to the list of you want anything in particular and we can order it.

For bead making we have a set of clear and a set of mixed coloured COE90 rods, along with tubes of frit and a selection of random stringer (1mm thick rod) glass for decoration. Prices for these are TBD, but will be printed on a sheet near the glassworking station when determined (something in the order of a pound per full rod, that would work out as around 20-40p per medium size bead, each of which would take about half an hour to make).

== Location ==

The glassworking kit is in the corner of the main workshop nearest the stairs up to the cafe. Please keep work to the area covered by the steel sheeting - we're not working with enough material to cause a serious problem otherwise but it helps keep everything tidy. As it currently stands the station is only suitable for one person, or two if both are working together. It would be asking for trouble to try to have someone using the table to cut glass at the same time as someone was working with the torch, so please don't!

== Scheduling ==

Unlike many pieces of equipment in Makespace the kiln requires a considerable amount of uninterrupted time to run. We don't have a formal booking system in place, so for now I suggest you email the list if you propose to use it. For example, if you're doing bead work you will be spending between half an hour and two hours (depending on how many you're making) using the hot torch, with beads being placed in the kiln at a holding temperature while the others are worked in the flame, then running an annealing cycle which will cool down under computer control for a couple of hours, then cooling to ambient before the kiln becomes available for other users. It should be possible to get two runs in a day, as long as the first is done in the morning, but no more than that.

The kiln is a model which should be possible to leave unattended once you have set the digital controller to run a specific program. Before firing make sure you sign post that the kiln is hot, that there is nothing flammable near the kiln and that there is about 12 inches gap between the kiln and the walls. Please check the firing schedule - don't assume it is set to any previous settings. If you are doing anything new/are unfamiliar with the kiln, please ensure that you can be in the space for the duration of its active firing cycle - it's fine to leave once the heating elements are off and the kiln is cooling to ambient but please hang around while it's actually firing. If firing overnight please come in the next day to turn the kiln off.

= How tos =

'''Do not use the equipment if you have not been inducted!'''
'''If in doubt, consult the Kiln manual(s), and/or speak to one of the owners (or other trained users)!'''

== How to make glass beads ==

=== Preparation ===

Smell if there's any gas around (leak from the gas bottle)... If not:
# Fire up kiln
#* Turn on at the manual switch; wait for "IdLE" to appear. If it says "CpLt" press Start once.
#* Use Programme 1
#** press Review; if it shows #1, then simply press Start twice
#** if it shows some other number, consult the manual how to start Programme 1! [to be expanded]
#*** From IdLE press START (the left button) Use the Up Arrow (not the Down Arrow) to select a firing program - in this case Program 1 for annealing glass beads. Press start until the kiln starts displaying the temperature of the kiln. The clicking noise is normal.
# Get bead release to correct consistency
#* The bead release dries out over time. If it is too thick and lumpy you need to add water to it.<br />Screw on the lid and shake the bead release well to get rid of all the lumps. It should be the consistency of a thick smoothie.
# Get everything (mandrels, tools, water bucket, glass) ready and laid out, so you don't have to bend over the hot flame to fetch it later

The final firing temperature is ~530 degrees; the kiln heats up pretty quickly, so you should be able to start working on the glass bead already.

=== Flameworking ===

For each bead:

# Coat the mandrel
#* tilt the bottle before you dip
#* dip only once, turn the mandrel while it is still in the bottle without touching the sides of the bottle
#* pull out the mandrel without touching the sides of the bottle
# Turn on flame
#* the two 'outer' valves open counter-clockwise, but the 'middle' valve opens ''clockwise''.
#* don't put the lighter directly in front of the nozzle, but slightly below/to the side
#* adjust gas flow so it doesn't sputter but doesn't have a loud "windy" noise either
# Sit on the small stool, resting your elbows on your legs; rest the mandrel on your little finger, and use thumb and index finger to rotate it
# Dry bead release & heat mandrel in flame
# Heat tip of glass rod evenly
#* the hottest part of the flame is just at the tip of the bright blue (inner) cone
#* beware of splinters (thermoshock) -- point rod away from you and other people!
#* if applicable, straighten rod out again before putting away (so the direction of thermoshock is predictable)
# Gently add molten glass onto mandrel - it is easiest to keep your glass rod still and rotate your mandrel away from you, rather than keeping your mandrel still and trying to roll glass onto the mandrel
#* the glass rod should be in the hottest part of the flame, the mandrel slightly further away
#* do not apply any significant force -- this will pull off the bead release
#* do not let the glass touch the mandrels directly (where there isn't any bead release)!
#* create overhang to prevent pointy bits around the hole of the bead
# Things you can do with the bead:
#* add little splinters of glass (put on metal table, scoop back into tube afterwards)
#* use the thin glass rods to draw lines and shapes
#* use a thin mandrel to marble/'paint' (e.g. spirals) between glasses of different color
#** if glass remains stuck to the mandrel, get it red hot and dip into the water bucket; repeat as necessary
#* e.g. silver foil to change color of glass [to be expanded]
# When done, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red; turn off the flame and insert mandrel into kiln
#* make sure ''not'' to touch the walls, and especially not the thermocouple at the back wall!

Repeat as needed for as many mandrels as fit into the kiln.

=== Wrapping up ===

When all the beads are in the kiln:

# Press the Skip Segment button, and then Start
# Stick around till the cooling process has finished, and the kiln returns to "IDLE" (should occur at around 370 degrees Celsius, after around 45 minutes)
# Turn off kiln, and add note saying it's still hot (which it is!)
# Leave mandrels in for another few hours (the next morning if you worked in the evening) so they can cool down to room temperature
# Don't forget to pick up your beads later to make space for other people!

=== Alternative method: Vermiculite ===

If the kiln is in use for fusing, an alternative method of cooling your beads slowly is to place them into the pot of vermiculite as opposed to the heated kiln. The vermiculite traps air around the bead, stopping it from cooling too quickly. Although for small beads this is usually sufficient to prevent the bead from cracking, to be on the safe side, you will need to anneal your bead in the kiln afterwards. (Shops will generally require you to anneal all your beads before you sell them)

# When done working with the bead in the flame, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red
# Turn off the flame, use the marver to push aside the vermiculite a little and plant your bead into the vermiculite.
# Leave it in there until it cools to room temp (how long this takes depends on how big your bead is, but overnight is probably the safest).

TODO - section on how to batch anneal beads in the kiln after cooling in vermiculite

=== Finishing ===

Tips & tricks for how to get beads off mandrel and what to do with them then:

* Take the forceps from the toolbox to grip the mandrel (not the glass bead), and grip the bead with your other hand and rotate
** take care not to bend the mandrel! this is particularly relevant when using the thin mandrels
* Wash the beads to get the bead release off the inside
** there are [these things with teeth on] to scratch off the bead release
** using a shoestring might work, too (for big holes)

Here are some links you may find useful if you want to make your own
glass beads:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== How to fuse glass together ==

Please check out http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/free-videos.html, in particular What is Kiln-glass?, How to Choose a Glass for Kilnforming (especially parts 1-4 and Material Matters: Release Qualities), Glass Cutting, Fusing basics, Preparing Kiln Shelves.

== Other uses of the Kiln ==

The kiln can also be used to fire metal clay or for enamelling. None of the owners so far has had any experience with this. If you would like to try something, please check out safety requirements and send the proposal to Makespace admin for approval.

== Other uses of the Torch ==

* Annealing metal
* Pulling stringer