http://wiki.makespace.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=HannahWrayMakespace - User contributions [en]2026-05-29T20:50:28ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.22.6http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_Printer/TrainingEquipment/3D Printer/Training2014-05-18T12:06:45Z<p>HannahWray: /* Trained Users */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/3D Printer|3D Printer]] / Training<br />
<br />
= 3D Printer Training =<br />
<br />
This page documents the process for being trained on the 3D Printer, and the list of members who have completed that training.<br />
<br />
== Summary ==<br />
<br />
Training takes place in three main steps:<br />
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)<br />
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)<br />
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)<br />
<br />
Training on the 3D Printer is run by the 3D Printer Owners. The 3D Printer Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the 3D Printer, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the 3D Printer. <br />
<br />
== Booking ==<br />
<br />
This is no longer handled here on the wiki.<br />
<br />
For discussing and arranging slots, please use the mailing list thread [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/vNrS07zVuY0/discussion]. New training sessions will be announced on the Meetup group.<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* You can only be trained if you have RSVP'd to a Meetup session<br />
<br />
= Trained Users =<br />
<br />
The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the 3D Printer (note, they are not qualified to train others however):<br />
<br />
* Chris Abri<br />
* Rachel Rayns<br />
* Tom Ingham<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Moin Ali<br />
* Andy Fisher<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Yi Wei<br />
* Errol McMullen<br />
* Mark Watson<br />
* Catarina Violante<br />
* Maciek Piatek<br />
* Adrian van den Heever<br />
* Brian Corteil<br />
* Rod Williams<br />
* Peter Provis<br />
* Ben Evans<br />
* Roeland Schumacher<br />
* Archie Reid<br />
* Adrian Carr<br />
* Ward Hills<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Pop Sharma<br />
* Patrick Greaney<br />
* Kevin Latter<br />
* Martin de Selincourt<br />
* Alexis Mather<br />
* Andrew Dunn<br />
* Hannah Wray<br />
* Anne Harrison<br />
* Ben Alper<br />
* Ajith Shadakshari<br />
* Mark Mellors<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Alan Tennant<br />
* Jake Young<br />
* John Sturdy<br />
* David Bebb<br />
* Ben Wheatley<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Richard Mitchell (mandatory only)<br />
* Christie Nel (mandatory only)<br />
* Andrew Lipson (mandatory only)<br />
* Toby Roberts (mandatory only)<br />
* Dan Tidhar<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Matthew Ireland<br />
* Harry Braviner<br />
* Saar Drimer<br />
* Robert Hoff<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Armando Carlone<br />
* Marcin Izo<br />
* James Hutton (mandatory only)<br />
* Anthony Wainman (mandatory only)<br />
* Jia Wei Lim (mandatory only)<br />
* Julius Schmidt (mandatory only)<br />
* Hazel Jenkins (mandatory only)<br />
* Benjamin Kidder (mandatory only)<br />
* Joshua Keeler (mandatory only)<br />
* Simon Birrell (mandatory only)<br />
* John Simm (mandatory only)<br />
* Theo Sanderson (mandatory only)<br />
* Jon Aas (mandatory only)<br />
* Stephen Jeapes (mandatory only)<br />
* Anna Stoilova (mandatory only)<br />
* Jim Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Katia Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Aleksandar Tomic (mandatory only)<br />
* Gaye Saykok (mandatory only)<br />
* Fergus Riche (mandatory only)<br />
* David Barham (Mandatory only)<br />
* Marco Aita (Mandatory only)<br />
* Jason White (Mandatory only)<br />
* Brian Starkey (Mandatory only)<br />
* David Cox (Mandatory only)<br />
* Matt Grimes (Mandatory only)<br />
* Tim Regan (Mandatory only)<br />
* Stuart Wilson (Mandatory only)<br />
* Andy Spencer (Mandatory only)<br />
* Ester Leighton (Mandatory only)<br />
* Richard Fosh (Mandatory only)<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* John Campbell<br />
* Arun Rao<br />
* Peter Mottram<br />
* Marcin Zaba<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Dave Potts<br />
* Reid Potts<br />
* Mark Roberts<br />
* Piccardo Gheradi<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Robert Hogg<br />
* Michal Stefanow<br />
* Charlie Stokes<br />
* Leo Impett<br />
* Patrick Wollner<br />
* Patrick Baigent<br />
* Kate Aston<br />
* Shelagh Shepherd<br />
* Damien Guihen<br />
* Paul Edgington<br />
* Wayne Keenan<br />
* Liza Read<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Francisco Cordobes Aguilar<br />
* Nicola Powys<br />
* Jia Wei Lim<br />
* Sonya Sireau<br />
* Andrew Gale<br />
* Andre Powell<br />
* Tom Myers<br />
* Hidde-Jan Lemstra<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Alex Wortley<br />
* Jason Holloway<br />
* Alex Holloway<br />
* Mat Cook (1/5/2014)<br />
* Toby Norman (1/5/2014)<br />
* Toby Bunting (1/5/2014)<br />
* Rob Voisey (1/5/2014)<br />
* Joe Tapply (1/5/2014)<br />
* Carl Phillips (1/5/2014)<br />
* Alberto Santos (6/5/14)<br />
* Owen McAree (6/5/14)<br />
* Eric Jones (6/5/14)<br />
* Martin Hollis (8/5/14)<br />
* Mark Tillotson (8/5/14)<br />
* Neil Tan (8/5/14)<br />
* Mat Greenwood (8/5/14)<br />
* Alex Atkinson (15/5/14)<br />
* Al Napp (15/5/14)<br />
* Ian McFarlane (15/5/14)<br />
<br />
'''Delayed training blacklist:'''<br />
<br />
Now on the wall in Makespace, near the 3D printers.<br />
<br />
= Training Cheatsheet =<br />
<br />
The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the 3D Printer Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitue for the training itself.<br />
<br />
== Group Training ==<br />
<br />
The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-5 members at a time in a 1 hr session.<br />
<br />
3D Printing Induction syllabus:<br />
<br />
how 3D printing works<br />
<br />
safety<br />
burn hazard<br />
nozzle and platter<br />
unit may move unexpectedly<br />
avoid prolonged exposure to ABS fumes<br />
<br />
damage to machine<br />
kapton<br />
is fragile - don't use scraper!<br />
is expensive<br />
needs to be clean<br />
don't leave the machine unattended<br />
heater could stick on if software crashes, for example<br />
<br />
general<br />
SD card eccentricities<br />
keep lid on when printing<br />
switch off when finished<br />
<br />
PLA vs ABS<br />
how to tell the difference<br />
different temperature<br />
biodegradable<br />
need to change temperature profiles!<br />
<br />
unload/load,<br />
different axles for different spools<br />
spool from under reel<br />
beware of wrapping round axle!<br />
colours (no need to run out all because test strip does that)<br />
setting PLA/ABS<br />
cut off lump<br />
<br />
printing<br />
preheating<br />
if model stuck, wait to cool<br />
keep an eye on it. can go strange half way!<br />
<br />
levelling<br />
not often needed<br />
symptoms of unlevelness<br />
first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
part not sticking<br />
worst case: head touching bed<br />
be careful not to damage kapton<br />
<br />
software/workflow<br />
(it is proposed that the course should not include detailed introduction to the<br />
software, as this is mostly obvious, can freely be downloaded, and is well documented) - if there is high demand, consider running a software training course<br />
scaffolding<br />
setting colours<br />
<br />
multicolour<br />
can't do scaffolding and multicolour - maybe not true anymore?<br />
issues with mixed materials<br />
<br />
other stuff<br />
strength characteristics - orientation is important<br />
don't use fine<br />
don't leave the room<br />
paying<br />
<br />
== Individual Training Task ==<br />
<br />
The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:<br />
<br />
Task<br />
* Make something?<br />
* Should demonstrate import, setup, position and run<br />
* possible examples (around 10m printing time)<br />
** plain_game_tokes 1/2/5<br />
** SpaceShuttle-small<br />
** CookieCutter_apple_small<br />
<br />
Steps<br />
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)<br />
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc<br />
* Proceed to printing (watch carefully all steps)<br />
<br />
Assuming all ok:<br />
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials<br />
* Add to the trained member list!<br />
<br />
== Project Oversight ==<br />
<br />
For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_Printer/TrainingEquipment/3D Printer/Training2014-05-08T20:48:16Z<p>HannahWray: /* Trained Users */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/3D Printer|3D Printer]] / Training<br />
<br />
= 3D Printer Training =<br />
<br />
This page documents the process for being trained on the 3D Printer, and the list of members who have completed that training.<br />
<br />
== Summary ==<br />
<br />
Training takes place in three main steps:<br />
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)<br />
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)<br />
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)<br />
<br />
Training on the 3D Printer is run by the 3D Printer Owners. The 3D Printer Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the 3D Printer, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the 3D Printer. <br />
<br />
== Booking ==<br />
<br />
This is no longer handled here on the wiki.<br />
<br />
For discussing and arranging slots, please use the mailing list thread [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/vNrS07zVuY0/discussion]. New training sessions will be announced on the Meetup group.<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* You can only be trained if you have RSVP'd to a Meetup session<br />
<br />
= Trained Users =<br />
<br />
The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the 3D Printer (note, they are not qualified to train others however):<br />
<br />
* Chris Abri<br />
* Rachel Rayns<br />
* Tom Ingham<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Moin Ali<br />
* Andy Fisher<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Yi Wei<br />
* Errol McMullen<br />
* Mark Watson<br />
* Catarina Violante<br />
* Maciek Piatek<br />
* Adrian van den Heever<br />
* Brian Corteil<br />
* Rod Williams<br />
* Peter Provis<br />
* Ben Evans<br />
* Roeland Schumacher<br />
* Archie Reid<br />
* Adrian Carr<br />
* Ward Hills<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Pop Sharma<br />
* Patrick Greaney<br />
* Kevin Latter<br />
* Martin de Selincourt<br />
* Alexis Mather<br />
* Andrew Dunn<br />
* Hannah Wray<br />
* Anne Harrison<br />
* Ben Alper<br />
* Ajith Shadakshari<br />
* Mark Mellors<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Alan Tennant<br />
* Jake Young<br />
* John Sturdy<br />
* David Bebb<br />
* Ben Wheatley<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Richard Mitchell (mandatory only)<br />
* Christie Nel (mandatory only)<br />
* Andrew Lipson (mandatory only)<br />
* Toby Roberts (mandatory only)<br />
* Dan Tidhar<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Matthew Ireland<br />
* Harry Braviner<br />
* Saar Drimer<br />
* Robert Hoff<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Armando Carlone<br />
* Marcin Izo<br />
* James Hutton (mandatory only)<br />
* Anthony Wainman (mandatory only)<br />
* Jia Wei Lim (mandatory only)<br />
* Julius Schmidt (mandatory only)<br />
* Hazel Jenkins (mandatory only)<br />
* Benjamin Kidder (mandatory only)<br />
* Joshua Keeler (mandatory only)<br />
* Simon Birrell (mandatory only)<br />
* John Simm (mandatory only)<br />
* Theo Sanderson (mandatory only)<br />
* Jon Aas (mandatory only)<br />
* Stephen Jeapes (mandatory only)<br />
* Anna Stoilova (mandatory only)<br />
* Jim Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Katia Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Aleksandar Tomic (mandatory only)<br />
* Gaye Saykok (mandatory only)<br />
* Fergus Riche (mandatory only)<br />
* David Barham (Mandatory only)<br />
* Marco Aita (Mandatory only)<br />
* Jason White (Mandatory only)<br />
* Brian Starkey (Mandatory only)<br />
* David Cox (Mandatory only)<br />
* Matt Grimes (Mandatory only)<br />
* Tim Regan (Mandatory only)<br />
* Stuart Wilson (Mandatory only)<br />
* Andy Spencer (Mandatory only)<br />
* Ester Leighton (Mandatory only)<br />
* Richard Fosh (Mandatory only)<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* John Campbell<br />
* Arun Rao<br />
* Peter Mottram<br />
* Marcin Zaba<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Dave Potts<br />
* Reid Potts<br />
* Mark Roberts<br />
* Piccardo Gheradi<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Robert Hogg<br />
* Michal Stefanow<br />
* Charlie Stokes<br />
* Leo Impett<br />
* Patrick Wollner<br />
* Patrick Baigent<br />
* Kate Aston<br />
* Shelagh Shepherd<br />
* Damien Guihen<br />
* Paul Edgington<br />
* Wayne Keenan<br />
* Liza Read<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Francisco Cordobes Aguilar<br />
* Nicola Powys<br />
* Jia Wei Lim<br />
* Sonya Sireau<br />
* Andrew Gale<br />
* Andre Powell<br />
* Tom Myers<br />
* Hidde-Jan Lemstra<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Alex Wortley<br />
* Jason Holloway<br />
* Alex Holloway<br />
* Mat Cook (1/5/2014)<br />
* Toby Norman (1/5/2014)<br />
* Toby Bunting (1/5/2014)<br />
* Rob Voisey (1/5/2014)<br />
* Joe Tapply (1/5/2014)<br />
* Carl Phillips (1/5/2014)<br />
* Alberto Santos (6/5/14)<br />
* Owen McAree (6/5/14)<br />
* Eric Jones (6/5/14)<br />
* Martin Hollis (8/5/14)<br />
* Mark Tillotson (8/5/14)<br />
* Neil Tan (8/5/14)<br />
* Mat Greenwood (8/5/14)<br />
<br />
'''Delayed training blacklist:'''<br />
<br />
Now on the wall in Makespace, near the 3D printers.<br />
<br />
= Training Cheatsheet =<br />
<br />
The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the 3D Printer Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitue for the training itself.<br />
<br />
== Group Training ==<br />
<br />
The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-5 members at a time in a 1 hr session.<br />
<br />
3D Printing Induction syllabus:<br />
<br />
how 3D printing works<br />
<br />
safety<br />
burn hazard<br />
nozzle and platter<br />
unit may move unexpectedly<br />
avoid prolonged exposure to ABS fumes<br />
<br />
damage to machine<br />
kapton<br />
is fragile - don't use scraper!<br />
is expensive<br />
needs to be clean<br />
don't leave the machine unattended<br />
heater could stick on if software crashes, for example<br />
<br />
general<br />
SD card eccentricities<br />
keep lid on when printing<br />
switch off when finished<br />
<br />
PLA vs ABS<br />
how to tell the difference<br />
different temperature<br />
biodegradable<br />
need to change temperature profiles!<br />
<br />
unload/load,<br />
different axles for different spools<br />
spool from under reel<br />
beware of wrapping round axle!<br />
colours (no need to run out all because test strip does that)<br />
setting PLA/ABS<br />
cut off lump<br />
<br />
printing<br />
preheating<br />
if model stuck, wait to cool<br />
keep an eye on it. can go strange half way!<br />
<br />
levelling<br />
not often needed<br />
symptoms of unlevelness<br />
first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
part not sticking<br />
worst case: head touching bed<br />
be careful not to damage kapton<br />
<br />
software/workflow<br />
(it is proposed that the course should not include detailed introduction to the<br />
software, as this is mostly obvious, can freely be downloaded, and is well documented) - if there is high demand, consider running a software training course<br />
scaffolding<br />
setting colours<br />
<br />
multicolour<br />
can't do scaffolding and multicolour - maybe not true anymore?<br />
issues with mixed materials<br />
<br />
other stuff<br />
strength characteristics - orientation is important<br />
don't use fine<br />
don't leave the room<br />
paying<br />
<br />
== Individual Training Task ==<br />
<br />
The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:<br />
<br />
Task<br />
* Make something?<br />
* Should demonstrate import, setup, position and run<br />
* possible examples (around 10m printing time)<br />
** plain_game_tokes 1/2/5<br />
** SpaceShuttle-small<br />
** CookieCutter_apple_small<br />
<br />
Steps<br />
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)<br />
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc<br />
* Proceed to printing (watch carefully all steps)<br />
<br />
Assuming all ok:<br />
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials<br />
* Add to the trained member list!<br />
<br />
== Project Oversight ==<br />
<br />
For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_PrinterEquipment/3D Printer2014-05-08T20:44:32Z<p>HannahWray: /* Trainers */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer<br />
<br />
= Introduction =<br />
3D printing is a way of creating small, custom objects from plastic filament. The printer melts the filament, held on a spool, and prints with it to create 3D structures. Makespace has two 3D printers, an UP! and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Currently, the Makerbot is the only printer working in the space. The UP! is out of action until it can be fixed by the owners (needs new electronic components).<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. <br />
<br />
The current Owners of the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:SimonS|Simon Stirley]] - retired<br />
* [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]] - retired<br />
* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]<br />
* [[User:Cvoth|Chris Voth]]<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.<br />
<br />
The current Trainers for the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
*[[User:HannahWray|Hannah Wray]]<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]<br />
<br />
Note that persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading its manual. See https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
== General Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers are excellent tools for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED'''<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
<br />
As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start<br />
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.<br />
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off<br />
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'pause' and 'stop printing' functions on the Makerbot so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.<br />
<br />
'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printers are heated, and will reach temperatures up to 253 degrees during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzles also get very hot. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the Makerbot's guard door securely closed while printing.<br />
* Be careful when the machines have recently been used, as they may still be hot enough to burn.<br />
<br />
'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.<br />
<br />
== Plastics used in the printers ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers can print with two different plastics, PLA and ABS. PLA has a much lower melting point than ABS, so all temperature settings for the printer need to be changed if you are switching between plastics. Normally ABS is what we would reccomend printing in: it is more durable and strong.<br />
<br />
Telling the difference between the plastics is fairly simple: if you take a piece of the PLA filament between your fingers you can break it off and snap it easily - it is brittle. When you try to break off a piece of ABS, it bends and the filament starts to go white, not breaking straight away.<br />
<br />
The ABS can be found on the shelves above the 3D printers, the small amount of PLA can be found in the lower down orange drawers (marked PLA).<br />
<br />
<br />
= Makerbot Replicator 2X 3D Printer =<br />
<br />
This is the Makerbot Replicator 2X, currently the only 3D printer working in the space. There is a dedicated PC next to it with the MakerWare software used to drive it. MakerWare can import STL design files (eg. from Thingiverse) for printing. The manual for this printer can be found here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
<br />
== Specific Safety Tips ==<br />
<br />
There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Makerbot will display its current temperatures for you if you use the arrow keys to navigate on its small display (see manual). The platter may also move unexpextedly. Do not open the front hatch or lift off the top transparent cover during printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventillated area.<br />
<br />
Don't let the machine run unattended - you don't need to watch a print constantly but keep an eye on it and always remain in the same room. Possible problems that would require you to pause or stop the machine include filament getting wrapped around the spool holder at the back and sticking, and a software crash on the PC. If you're unsure of a situation you can always pause your print and restart it.<br />
<br />
Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==<br />
<br />
The bed is covered with Kapton tape. This green, shiny tape is very fragile and expensive to replace and so you MUST NOT use a knife, scraper or other sharp object to remove your finished models. Use your hands only, or the plastic scraper with the Makerbot logo on in the red box as a last resort. Often, models will easily come free once the bed is allowed to cool, so give it 10 minutes and try again before resorting to this.<br />
<br />
The kapton tape needs to be kept clean so that plastic extruded onto it has a nice base finish and sticks well. If you notice smears or marks on the tape give it a gentle clean with a dry cloth from the red box on the shelf. Make sure your hands are clean and not greasy before you touch the platen or try to remove printed objects from it.<br />
<br />
If you do damage the tape, please let the owners know as soon as possible. Chris Voth's email address is on the little orange sign on the machine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Using SD cards with the Makerbot == <br />
<br />
We would recommend driving the Makerbot directly from the dedicated software on the PC next to it. If you want to use an SD card, it is very fussy. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card formatted this way, currently in the slot of the printer free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away! The SD card should contain .thing files to print from.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Loading and Unloading ==<br />
<br />
You will notice there are two print heads for this printer, driven by two separate spools of plastic on different axles.<br />
<br />
When you want to change spools, either to change colour or because a spool has nearly run out, follow these instructions, found on page 31 of the Manual. Go there if you have any questions about detail or need further instructions with illustrations. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
If you need to unload the MakerBot Filament, the LCD menu will walk you through the process. To run the script for unloading the filament from either extruder, go to the LCD panel and select Utilities > Filament Options > Unload (specify left or right). The LCD menu will walk you through the process. You will need to first remove the transparent lid to access the filament tubes. Be patient - yanking at the filament before it is ready to be removed may leave residue inside the extruders which is VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.<br />
<br />
When you are ready to load a fresh filament, the menu will walk you through the process. There is no need to worry about allowing extra printing to change colours fully afterwards because you'll print a test strip during changeover that does that. There is a step of 'cut off lump' which means you'll need to use the wire cutters provided to snip away this excess lump of test printed material.<br />
<br />
It is very important to make sure your spools are running in the correct direction. Ensure that the filament mounted on the right spool holder [when viewed from the back] unspools clockwise and that the filament mounted on the left spool unspools counterclockwise. Refer to the diagram you were shown during training, or to the manual.<br />
<br />
Also beware of wrapping round axle - sometimes the spools can get misaligned and filament ends up tightening and wrapping around the axle. This is very dangerous and printing should be stopped straight away to correct it. There is more of a danger of this happening if the spools are set up incorrectly.<br />
<br />
If you are changing between PLA and ABS you also need to change the temperature settings of the machine, since PLA will burn at the temperatures used for ABS, and ABS will not print at PLA temperatures. <br />
<br />
== Printing ==<br />
<br />
The printer always extrudes a test line along the front of the bed first. Make sure to remove this when you remove your print, and that your print location doesn't clash with it.<br />
<br />
Preheating the bed is helpful but not necessary - it will save you time. The printer will not print until the bed has heated up enough. You can select the left and/or right extruders to heat up as well. If you are only printing with one material, just select that extruder. Go to Utilities > Preheat > Start Preheat<br />
<br />
If a model is stuck, wait for the bed to cool - often they will come away very easily once cooled enough. Otherwise apply a gentle twisting action manually. As a last resort, use the plastic MakerBot branded paddle to scrape it away from the bed. Do NOT use metal knives - they will damage the kapton bed.<br />
<br />
Keep an eye on it. prints can go strange half way! Be ready to pause or stop while printing. You can find those options by pressing the left arrow while printing. You can always pause a print if you are uncertain - as long as you resume it within a couple of minutes, this shouldn't alter your final result.<br />
<br />
== Levelling ==<br />
<br />
This is not often needed. The symptoms of unlevelness are: <br />
<br />
- first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
- part not sticking<br />
<br />
In the worst case: the print head ends up touching the bed - HEAD CRASH. This is bad news. Level the bed before this stage is reached!<br />
<br />
To level the bed, go to Utilities > Level Build Plate. There are 3 screws underneath the build plate - see p23 of the Manual for a diagram on where they are located. The MakerBot software will guide you through the process of adjusting them to level the plate. The ideal to aim for is that a piece of paper should *just* slide through the gap between the extruder nozzle and the plate in each location.<br />
<br />
Be careful not to damage kapton tape while doing this!<br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
The software used with the MakerBot 2X is called MakerWare. It is well documented in the Manual and there are many online tutorials for its use, so we will not go into detail here.<br />
<br />
Some tips on our experience with the software:<br />
<br />
If there seems to be an unspecified software problem/crash, try selecting Services > Restart Background Service. This resets the connection to the printer. Don't do this while printing.<br />
<br />
Edit > Settings lets you select which plastic you have loaded into each extruder. You need to change this each time you load new plastic. When switching to PLA make sure to change the temperature profile here as well as switching colours.<br />
<br />
The Make button gives you settings for supports (colour matched is best), whether to have a raft (generally not needed), and resolution (standard is best). For a general guide, 4 shells with layer height h = 0.2mm generally works well. Experiment with infill settings - 15% is generally fine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Multicolour ==<br />
<br />
Can't do scaffolding and multicolour - This is not true anymore, we think.<br />
Issues with mixed materials. It might seem like a good idea to use a PLA scaffold for an ABS piece and then dissolve away the PLA in hot water, but this is in fact very difficult. It's better to think about scaffolding with weaker pieces of the same plastic, or changing a piece's orientation.<br />
<br />
== Other Details ==<br />
<br />
Don't leave the room while printing! The printer is very expensive and you don't want to have to explain the lump of plastic stuck to a now-unusable extruder is your fault. Play it safe, keep an eye on your prints.<br />
<br />
You need to pay for your prints once you have made them. The current rate is 10p/gram of material used - use the little scales on the shelves on top of the printer area to weigh your finished prints.<br />
<br />
= Using the UP! 3D Printer =<br />
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]<br />
<br />
This is the UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).<br />
The dedicated PC next to the printers is running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup. At the moment the UP! is out of action.<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''<br />
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket<br />
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Check calibration'''<br />
<br />
This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.<br />
<br />
# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar<br />
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort<br />
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button<br />
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.<br />
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar<br />
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Download to the Printer'''<br />
<br />
# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar<br />
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.<br />
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below<br />
# Press 'OK' to proceed<br />
# Watch the magic happen ...<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that<br />
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least<br />
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen<br />
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'<br />
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket<br />
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath<br />
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user<br />
<br />
'''Cost'''<br />
<br />
Currently we charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. You can weigh printed parts using the scales next to the blue honesty box. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')<br />
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants<br />
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Check the security and condition of all cabling<br />
* Check the UP! platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus<br />
* Strip coating off UP! platen and re-paint with a fresh coat<br />
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* None<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)<br />
* Week 09, February 25, <br />
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''<br />
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)<br />
* Week 12, March 18, <br />
* Week 13, March 25,<br />
* '''Week 14, April 1,''' <br />
<br />
<!--<br />
* Week 15, April 8, <br />
* Week 16, April 15,<br />
* Week 17, April 22, <br />
* '''Week 18, April 29, '''<br />
* Week 19, May 6, <br />
* Week 20, May 13, <br />
* Week 21, May 20, <br />
* '''Week 22, May 27, '''<br />
* Week 23, June 3, <br />
* Week 24, June 10, <br />
* Week 25, June 17, <br />
* '''Week 26, June 24, '''<br />
* Week 27, July 1, <br />
* Week 28, July 8, <br />
* Week 29, July 15, <br />
* '''Week 30, July 22, '''<br />
* Week 31, July 29, <br />
* Week 32, August 5, <br />
* Week 33, August 12,<br />
* '''Week 34, August 19, '''<br />
* Week 35, August 26, <br />
* Week 36, September 2, <br />
* Week 37, September 9, <br />
* '''Week 38, September 16, ''' <br />
* Week 39, September 23,<br />
* Week 40, September 30, <br />
* Week 41, October 7, <br />
* '''Week 42, October 14, '''<br />
* Week 43, October 21,<br />
* Week 44, October 28, <br />
* Week 45, November 4,<br />
* '''Week 46, November 11,'''<br />
* Week 47, November 18,<br />
* Week 48, November 25, <br />
* Week 49, December 2, <br />
* '''Week 50, December 9, '''<br />
* Week 51, December 16, <br />
* Week 52, December 23, <br />
--><br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
== Manual ==<br />
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]<br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
Our printer has been modified to support solid 3mm ABS plastic sheets as the base. These are disposable; they have to be cut from the big sheet and drilled using the jig we have created. The bolted-down solid plastic dramatically reduces problems with warping, and it also saves time and material when printing: you should disable the automatic raft. --><br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].<br />
<br />
* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below<br />
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked<br />
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files<br />
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files<br />
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_Printer/TrainingEquipment/3D Printer/Training2014-05-06T20:07:30Z<p>HannahWray: /* Trained Users */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/3D Printer|3D Printer]] / Training<br />
<br />
= 3D Printer Training =<br />
<br />
This page documents the process for being trained on the 3D Printer, and the list of members who have completed that training.<br />
<br />
== Summary ==<br />
<br />
Training takes place in three main steps:<br />
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)<br />
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)<br />
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)<br />
<br />
Training on the 3D Printer is run by the 3D Printer Owners. The 3D Printer Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the 3D Printer, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the 3D Printer. <br />
<br />
== Booking ==<br />
<br />
This is no longer handled here on the wiki.<br />
<br />
For discussing and arranging slots, please use the mailing list thread [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/vNrS07zVuY0/discussion]. New training sessions will be announced on the Meetup group.<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* You can only be trained if you have RSVP'd to a Meetup session<br />
<br />
= Trained Users =<br />
<br />
The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the 3D Printer (note, they are not qualified to train others however):<br />
<br />
* Chris Abri<br />
* Rachel Rayns<br />
* Tom Ingham<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Moin Ali<br />
* Andy Fisher<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Yi Wei<br />
* Errol McMullen<br />
* Mark Watson<br />
* Catarina Violante<br />
* Maciek Piatek<br />
* Adrian van den Heever<br />
* Brian Corteil<br />
* Rod Williams<br />
* Peter Provis<br />
* Ben Evans<br />
* Roeland Schumacher<br />
* Archie Reid<br />
* Adrian Carr<br />
* Ward Hills<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Pop Sharma<br />
* Patrick Greaney<br />
* Kevin Latter<br />
* Martin de Selincourt<br />
* Alexis Mather<br />
* Andrew Dunn<br />
* Hannah Wray<br />
* Anne Harrison<br />
* Ben Alper<br />
* Ajith Shadakshari<br />
* Mark Mellors<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Alan Tennant<br />
* Jake Young<br />
* John Sturdy<br />
* David Bebb<br />
* Ben Wheatley<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Richard Mitchell (mandatory only)<br />
* Christie Nel (mandatory only)<br />
* Andrew Lipson (mandatory only)<br />
* Toby Roberts (mandatory only)<br />
* Dan Tidhar<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Matthew Ireland<br />
* Harry Braviner<br />
* Saar Drimer<br />
* Robert Hoff<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Armando Carlone<br />
* Marcin Izo<br />
* James Hutton (mandatory only)<br />
* Anthony Wainman (mandatory only)<br />
* Jia Wei Lim (mandatory only)<br />
* Julius Schmidt (mandatory only)<br />
* Hazel Jenkins (mandatory only)<br />
* Benjamin Kidder (mandatory only)<br />
* Joshua Keeler (mandatory only)<br />
* Simon Birrell (mandatory only)<br />
* John Simm (mandatory only)<br />
* Theo Sanderson (mandatory only)<br />
* Jon Aas (mandatory only)<br />
* Stephen Jeapes (mandatory only)<br />
* Anna Stoilova (mandatory only)<br />
* Jim Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Katia Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Aleksandar Tomic (mandatory only)<br />
* Gaye Saykok (mandatory only)<br />
* Fergus Riche (mandatory only)<br />
* David Barham (Mandatory only)<br />
* Marco Aita (Mandatory only)<br />
* Jason White (Mandatory only)<br />
* Brian Starkey (Mandatory only)<br />
* David Cox (Mandatory only)<br />
* Matt Grimes (Mandatory only)<br />
* Tim Regan (Mandatory only)<br />
* Stuart Wilson (Mandatory only)<br />
* Andy Spencer (Mandatory only)<br />
* Ester Leighton (Mandatory only)<br />
* Richard Fosh (Mandatory only)<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* John Campbell<br />
* Arun Rao<br />
* Peter Mottram<br />
* Marcin Zaba<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Dave Potts<br />
* Reid Potts<br />
* Mark Roberts<br />
* Piccardo Gheradi<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Robert Hogg<br />
* Michal Stefanow<br />
* Charlie Stokes<br />
* Leo Impett<br />
* Patrick Wollner<br />
* Patrick Baigent<br />
* Kate Aston<br />
* Shelagh Shepherd<br />
* Damien Guihen<br />
* Paul Edgington<br />
* Wayne Keenan<br />
* Liza Read<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Francisco Cordobes Aguilar<br />
* Nicola Powys<br />
* Jia Wei Lim<br />
* Sonya Sireau<br />
* Andrew Gale<br />
* Andre Powell<br />
* Tom Myers<br />
* Hidde-Jan Lemstra<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Alex Wortley<br />
* Jason Holloway<br />
* Alex Holloway<br />
* Mat Cook (1/5/2014)<br />
* Toby Norman (1/5/2014)<br />
* Toby Bunting (1/5/2014)<br />
* Rob Voisey (1/5/2014)<br />
* Joe Tapply (1/5/2014)<br />
* Carl Phillips (1/5/2014)<br />
* Alberto Santos (6/5/14)<br />
* Owen McAree (6/5/14)<br />
* Eric Jones (6/5/14)<br />
<br />
'''Delayed training blacklist:'''<br />
<br />
Now on the wall in Makespace, near the 3D printers.<br />
<br />
= Training Cheatsheet =<br />
<br />
The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the 3D Printer Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitue for the training itself.<br />
<br />
== Group Training ==<br />
<br />
The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-5 members at a time in a 1 hr session.<br />
<br />
3D Printing Induction syllabus:<br />
<br />
how 3D printing works<br />
<br />
safety<br />
burn hazard<br />
nozzle and platter<br />
unit may move unexpectedly<br />
avoid prolonged exposure to ABS fumes<br />
<br />
damage to machine<br />
kapton<br />
is fragile - don't use scraper!<br />
is expensive<br />
needs to be clean<br />
don't leave the machine unattended<br />
heater could stick on if software crashes, for example<br />
<br />
general<br />
SD card eccentricities<br />
keep lid on when printing<br />
switch off when finished<br />
<br />
PLA vs ABS<br />
how to tell the difference<br />
different temperature<br />
biodegradable<br />
need to change temperature profiles!<br />
<br />
unload/load,<br />
different axles for different spools<br />
spool from under reel<br />
beware of wrapping round axle!<br />
colours (no need to run out all because test strip does that)<br />
setting PLA/ABS<br />
cut off lump<br />
<br />
printing<br />
preheating<br />
if model stuck, wait to cool<br />
keep an eye on it. can go strange half way!<br />
<br />
levelling<br />
not often needed<br />
symptoms of unlevelness<br />
first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
part not sticking<br />
worst case: head touching bed<br />
be careful not to damage kapton<br />
<br />
software/workflow<br />
(it is proposed that the course should not include detailed introduction to the<br />
software, as this is mostly obvious, can freely be downloaded, and is well documented) - if there is high demand, consider running a software training course<br />
scaffolding<br />
setting colours<br />
<br />
multicolour<br />
can't do scaffolding and multicolour - maybe not true anymore?<br />
issues with mixed materials<br />
<br />
other stuff<br />
strength characteristics - orientation is important<br />
don't use fine<br />
don't leave the room<br />
paying<br />
<br />
== Individual Training Task ==<br />
<br />
The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:<br />
<br />
Task<br />
* Make something?<br />
* Should demonstrate import, setup, position and run<br />
* possible examples (around 10m printing time)<br />
** plain_game_tokes 1/2/5<br />
** SpaceShuttle-small<br />
** CookieCutter_apple_small<br />
<br />
Steps<br />
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)<br />
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc<br />
* Proceed to printing (watch carefully all steps)<br />
<br />
Assuming all ok:<br />
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials<br />
* Add to the trained member list!<br />
<br />
== Project Oversight ==<br />
<br />
For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_PrinterEquipment/3D Printer2014-05-01T21:10:16Z<p>HannahWray: /* Owners */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer<br />
<br />
= Introduction =<br />
3D printing is a way of creating small, custom objects from plastic filament. The printer melts the filament, held on a spool, and prints with it to create 3D structures. Makespace has two 3D printers, an UP! and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Currently, the Makerbot is the only printer working in the space. The UP! is out of action until it can be fixed by the owners (needs new electronic components).<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. <br />
<br />
The current Owners of the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:SimonS|Simon Stirley]] - retired<br />
* [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]] - retired<br />
* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]<br />
* [[User:Cvoth|Chris Voth]]<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.<br />
<br />
The current Trainers for the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
*[[User:HannahWray|Hannah Wray]]<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]<br />
<br />
Note that persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading its manual. See https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
== General Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers are excellent tools for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED'''<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
<br />
As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start<br />
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.<br />
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off<br />
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'pause' and 'stop printing' functions on the Makerbot so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.<br />
<br />
'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printers are heated, and will reach temperatures up to 253 degrees during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzles also get very hot. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the Makerbot's guard door securely closed while printing.<br />
* Be careful when the machines have recently been used, as they may still be hot enough to burn.<br />
<br />
'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.<br />
<br />
== Plastics used in the printers ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers can print with two different plastics, PLA and ABS. PLA has a much lower melting point than ABS, so all temperature settings for the printer need to be changed if you are switching between plastics. Normally ABS is what we would reccomend printing in: it is more durable and strong.<br />
<br />
Telling the difference between the plastics is fairly simple: if you take a piece of the PLA filament between your fingers you can break it off and snap it easily - it is brittle. When you try to break off a piece of ABS, it bends and the filament starts to go white, not breaking straight away.<br />
<br />
The ABS can be found on the shelves above the 3D printers, the small amount of PLA can be found in the lower down orange drawers (marked PLA).<br />
<br />
<br />
= Makerbot Replicator 2X 3D Printer =<br />
<br />
This is the Makerbot Replicator 2X, currently the only 3D printer working in the space. There is a dedicated PC next to it with the MakerWare software used to drive it. MakerWare can import STL design files (eg. from Thingiverse) for printing. The manual for this printer can be found here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
<br />
== Specific Safety Tips ==<br />
<br />
There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Makerbot will display its current temperatures for you if you use the arrow keys to navigate on its small display (see manual). The platter may also move unexpextedly. Do not open the front hatch or lift off the top transparent cover during printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventillated area.<br />
<br />
Don't let the machine run unattended - you don't need to watch a print constantly but keep an eye on it and always remain in the same room. Possible problems that would require you to pause or stop the machine include filament getting wrapped around the spool holder at the back and sticking, and a software crash on the PC. If you're unsure of a situation you can always pause your print and restart it.<br />
<br />
Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==<br />
<br />
The bed is covered with Kapton tape. This green, shiny tape is very fragile and expensive to replace and so you MUST NOT use a knife, scraper or other sharp object to remove your finished models. Use your hands only, or the plastic scraper with the Makerbot logo on in the red box as a last resort. Often, models will easily come free once the bed is allowed to cool, so give it 10 minutes and try again before resorting to this.<br />
<br />
The kapton tape needs to be kept clean so that plastic extruded onto it has a nice base finish and sticks well. If you notice smears or marks on the tape give it a gentle clean with a dry cloth from the red box on the shelf. Make sure your hands are clean and not greasy before you touch the platen or try to remove printed objects from it.<br />
<br />
If you do damage the tape, please let the owners know as soon as possible. Chris Voth's email address is on the little orange sign on the machine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Using SD cards with the Makerbot == <br />
<br />
We would recommend driving the Makerbot directly from the dedicated software on the PC next to it. If you want to use an SD card, it is very fussy. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card formatted this way, currently in the slot of the printer free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away! The SD card should contain .thing files to print from.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Loading and Unloading ==<br />
<br />
You will notice there are two print heads for this printer, driven by two separate spools of plastic on different axles.<br />
<br />
When you want to change spools, either to change colour or because a spool has nearly run out, follow these instructions, found on page 31 of the Manual. Go there if you have any questions about detail or need further instructions with illustrations. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
If you need to unload the MakerBot Filament, the LCD menu will walk you through the process. To run the script for unloading the filament from either extruder, go to the LCD panel and select Utilities > Filament Options > Unload (specify left or right). The LCD menu will walk you through the process. You will need to first remove the transparent lid to access the filament tubes. Be patient - yanking at the filament before it is ready to be removed may leave residue inside the extruders which is VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.<br />
<br />
When you are ready to load a fresh filament, the menu will walk you through the process. There is no need to worry about allowing extra printing to change colours fully afterwards because you'll print a test strip during changeover that does that. There is a step of 'cut off lump' which means you'll need to use the wire cutters provided to snip away this excess lump of test printed material.<br />
<br />
It is very important to make sure your spools are running in the correct direction. Ensure that the filament mounted on the right spool holder [when viewed from the back] unspools clockwise and that the filament mounted on the left spool unspools counterclockwise. Refer to the diagram you were shown during training, or to the manual.<br />
<br />
Also beware of wrapping round axle - sometimes the spools can get misaligned and filament ends up tightening and wrapping around the axle. This is very dangerous and printing should be stopped straight away to correct it. There is more of a danger of this happening if the spools are set up incorrectly.<br />
<br />
If you are changing between PLA and ABS you also need to change the temperature settings of the machine, since PLA will burn at the temperatures used for ABS, and ABS will not print at PLA temperatures. <br />
<br />
== Printing ==<br />
<br />
The printer always extrudes a test line along the front of the bed first. Make sure to remove this when you remove your print, and that your print location doesn't clash with it.<br />
<br />
Preheating the bed is helpful but not necessary - it will save you time. The printer will not print until the bed has heated up enough. You can select the left and/or right extruders to heat up as well. If you are only printing with one material, just select that extruder. Go to Utilities > Preheat > Start Preheat<br />
<br />
If a model is stuck, wait for the bed to cool - often they will come away very easily once cooled enough. Otherwise apply a gentle twisting action manually. As a last resort, use the plastic MakerBot branded paddle to scrape it away from the bed. Do NOT use metal knives - they will damage the kapton bed.<br />
<br />
Keep an eye on it. prints can go strange half way! Be ready to pause or stop while printing. You can find those options by pressing the left arrow while printing. You can always pause a print if you are uncertain - as long as you resume it within a couple of minutes, this shouldn't alter your final result.<br />
<br />
== Levelling ==<br />
<br />
This is not often needed. The symptoms of unlevelness are: <br />
<br />
- first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
- part not sticking<br />
<br />
In the worst case: the print head ends up touching the bed - HEAD CRASH. This is bad news. Level the bed before this stage is reached!<br />
<br />
To level the bed, go to Utilities > Level Build Plate. There are 3 screws underneath the build plate - see p23 of the Manual for a diagram on where they are located. The MakerBot software will guide you through the process of adjusting them to level the plate. The ideal to aim for is that a piece of paper should *just* slide through the gap between the extruder nozzle and the plate in each location.<br />
<br />
Be careful not to damage kapton tape while doing this!<br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
The software used with the MakerBot 2X is called MakerWare. It is well documented in the Manual and there are many online tutorials for its use, so we will not go into detail here.<br />
<br />
Some tips on our experience with the software:<br />
<br />
If there seems to be an unspecified software problem/crash, try selecting Services > Restart Background Service. This resets the connection to the printer. Don't do this while printing.<br />
<br />
Edit > Settings lets you select which plastic you have loaded into each extruder. You need to change this each time you load new plastic. When switching to PLA make sure to change the temperature profile here as well as switching colours.<br />
<br />
The Make button gives you settings for supports (colour matched is best), whether to have a raft (generally not needed), and resolution (standard is best). For a general guide, 4 shells with layer height h = 0.2mm generally works well. Experiment with infill settings - 15% is generally fine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Multicolour ==<br />
<br />
Can't do scaffolding and multicolour - This is not true anymore, we think.<br />
Issues with mixed materials. It might seem like a good idea to use a PLA scaffold for an ABS piece and then dissolve away the PLA in hot water, but this is in fact very difficult. It's better to think about scaffolding with weaker pieces of the same plastic, or changing a piece's orientation.<br />
<br />
== Other Details ==<br />
<br />
Don't leave the room while printing! The printer is very expensive and you don't want to have to explain the lump of plastic stuck to a now-unusable extruder is your fault. Play it safe, keep an eye on your prints.<br />
<br />
You need to pay for your prints once you have made them. The current rate is 10p/gram of material used - use the little scales on the shelves on top of the printer area to weigh your finished prints.<br />
<br />
= Using the UP! 3D Printer =<br />
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]<br />
<br />
This is the UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).<br />
The dedicated PC next to the printers is running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup. At the moment the UP! is out of action.<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''<br />
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket<br />
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Check calibration'''<br />
<br />
This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.<br />
<br />
# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar<br />
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort<br />
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button<br />
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.<br />
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar<br />
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Download to the Printer'''<br />
<br />
# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar<br />
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.<br />
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below<br />
# Press 'OK' to proceed<br />
# Watch the magic happen ...<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that<br />
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least<br />
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen<br />
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'<br />
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket<br />
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath<br />
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user<br />
<br />
'''Cost'''<br />
<br />
Currently we charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. You can weigh printed parts using the scales next to the blue honesty box. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')<br />
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants<br />
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Check the security and condition of all cabling<br />
* Check the UP! platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus<br />
* Strip coating off UP! platen and re-paint with a fresh coat<br />
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* None<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)<br />
* Week 09, February 25, <br />
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''<br />
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)<br />
* Week 12, March 18, <br />
* Week 13, March 25,<br />
* '''Week 14, April 1,''' <br />
<br />
<!--<br />
* Week 15, April 8, <br />
* Week 16, April 15,<br />
* Week 17, April 22, <br />
* '''Week 18, April 29, '''<br />
* Week 19, May 6, <br />
* Week 20, May 13, <br />
* Week 21, May 20, <br />
* '''Week 22, May 27, '''<br />
* Week 23, June 3, <br />
* Week 24, June 10, <br />
* Week 25, June 17, <br />
* '''Week 26, June 24, '''<br />
* Week 27, July 1, <br />
* Week 28, July 8, <br />
* Week 29, July 15, <br />
* '''Week 30, July 22, '''<br />
* Week 31, July 29, <br />
* Week 32, August 5, <br />
* Week 33, August 12,<br />
* '''Week 34, August 19, '''<br />
* Week 35, August 26, <br />
* Week 36, September 2, <br />
* Week 37, September 9, <br />
* '''Week 38, September 16, ''' <br />
* Week 39, September 23,<br />
* Week 40, September 30, <br />
* Week 41, October 7, <br />
* '''Week 42, October 14, '''<br />
* Week 43, October 21,<br />
* Week 44, October 28, <br />
* Week 45, November 4,<br />
* '''Week 46, November 11,'''<br />
* Week 47, November 18,<br />
* Week 48, November 25, <br />
* Week 49, December 2, <br />
* '''Week 50, December 9, '''<br />
* Week 51, December 16, <br />
* Week 52, December 23, <br />
--><br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
== Manual ==<br />
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]<br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
Our printer has been modified to support solid 3mm ABS plastic sheets as the base. These are disposable; they have to be cut from the big sheet and drilled using the jig we have created. The bolted-down solid plastic dramatically reduces problems with warping, and it also saves time and material when printing: you should disable the automatic raft. --><br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].<br />
<br />
* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below<br />
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked<br />
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files<br />
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files<br />
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_Printer/TrainingEquipment/3D Printer/Training2014-05-01T21:05:36Z<p>HannahWray: /* Trained Users */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/3D Printer|3D Printer]] / Training<br />
<br />
= 3D Printer Training =<br />
<br />
This page documents the process for being trained on the 3D Printer, and the list of members who have completed that training.<br />
<br />
== Summary ==<br />
<br />
Training takes place in three main steps:<br />
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)<br />
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)<br />
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)<br />
<br />
Training on the 3D Printer is run by the 3D Printer Owners. The 3D Printer Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the 3D Printer, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the 3D Printer. <br />
<br />
== Booking ==<br />
<br />
This is no longer handled here on the wiki.<br />
<br />
For discussing and arranging slots, please use the mailing list thread [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/vNrS07zVuY0/discussion]. New training sessions will be announced on the Meetup group.<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* You can only be trained if you have RSVP'd to a Meetup session<br />
<br />
= Trained Users =<br />
<br />
The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the 3D Printer (note, they are not qualified to train others however):<br />
<br />
* Chris Abri<br />
* Rachel Rayns<br />
* Tom Ingham<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Moin Ali<br />
* Andy Fisher<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Yi Wei<br />
* Errol McMullen<br />
* Mark Watson<br />
* Catarina Violante<br />
* Maciek Piatek<br />
* Adrian van den Heever<br />
* Brian Corteil<br />
* Rod Williams<br />
* Peter Provis<br />
* Ben Evans<br />
* Roeland Schumacher<br />
* Archie Reid<br />
* Adrian Carr<br />
* Ward Hills<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Pop Sharma<br />
* Patrick Greaney<br />
* Kevin Latter<br />
* Martin de Selincourt<br />
* Alexis Mather<br />
* Andrew Dunn<br />
* Hannah Wray<br />
* Anne Harrison<br />
* Ben Alper<br />
* Ajith Shadakshari<br />
* Mark Mellors<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Alan Tennant<br />
* Jake Young<br />
* John Sturdy<br />
* David Bebb<br />
* Ben Wheatley<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Richard Mitchell (mandatory only)<br />
* Christie Nel (mandatory only)<br />
* Andrew Lipson (mandatory only)<br />
* Toby Roberts (mandatory only)<br />
* Dan Tidhar<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Matthew Ireland<br />
* Harry Braviner<br />
* Saar Drimer<br />
* Robert Hoff<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Armando Carlone<br />
* Marcin Izo<br />
* James Hutton (mandatory only)<br />
* Anthony Wainman (mandatory only)<br />
* Jia Wei Lim (mandatory only)<br />
* Julius Schmidt (mandatory only)<br />
* Hazel Jenkins (mandatory only)<br />
* Benjamin Kidder (mandatory only)<br />
* Joshua Keeler (mandatory only)<br />
* Simon Birrell (mandatory only)<br />
* John Simm (mandatory only)<br />
* Theo Sanderson (mandatory only)<br />
* Jon Aas (mandatory only)<br />
* Stephen Jeapes (mandatory only)<br />
* Anna Stoilova (mandatory only)<br />
* Jim Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Katia Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Aleksandar Tomic (mandatory only)<br />
* Gaye Saykok (mandatory only)<br />
* Fergus Riche (mandatory only)<br />
* David Barham (Mandatory only)<br />
* Marco Aita (Mandatory only)<br />
* Jason White (Mandatory only)<br />
* Brian Starkey (Mandatory only)<br />
* David Cox (Mandatory only)<br />
* Matt Grimes (Mandatory only)<br />
* Tim Regan (Mandatory only)<br />
* Stuart Wilson (Mandatory only)<br />
* Andy Spencer (Mandatory only)<br />
* Ester Leighton (Mandatory only)<br />
* Richard Fosh (Mandatory only)<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* John Campbell<br />
* Arun Rao<br />
* Peter Mottram<br />
* Marcin Zaba<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Dave Potts<br />
* Reid Potts<br />
* Mark Roberts<br />
* Piccardo Gheradi<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Robert Hogg<br />
* Michal Stefanow<br />
* Charlie Stokes<br />
* Leo Impett<br />
* Patrick Wollner<br />
* Patrick Baigent<br />
* Kate Aston<br />
* Shelagh Shepherd<br />
* Damien Guihen<br />
* Paul Edgington<br />
* Wayne Keenan<br />
* Liza Read<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Francisco Cordobes Aguilar<br />
* Nicola Powys<br />
* Jia Wei Lim<br />
* Sonya Sireau<br />
* Andrew Gale<br />
* Andre Powell<br />
* Tom Myers<br />
* Hidde-Jan Lemstra<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Alex Wortley<br />
* Jason Holloway<br />
* Alex Holloway<br />
* Mat Cook (1/5/2014)<br />
* Toby Norman (1/5/2014)<br />
* Toby Bunting (1/5/2014)<br />
* Rob Voisey (1/5/2014)<br />
* Joe Tapply (1/5/2014)<br />
* Carl Phillips (1/5/2014)<br />
<br />
'''Delayed training blacklist:'''<br />
<br />
Now on the wall in Makespace, near the 3D printers.<br />
<br />
= Training Cheatsheet =<br />
<br />
The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the 3D Printer Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitue for the training itself.<br />
<br />
== Group Training ==<br />
<br />
The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-5 members at a time in a 1 hr session.<br />
<br />
3D Printing Induction syllabus:<br />
<br />
how 3D printing works<br />
<br />
safety<br />
burn hazard<br />
nozzle and platter<br />
unit may move unexpectedly<br />
avoid prolonged exposure to ABS fumes<br />
<br />
damage to machine<br />
kapton<br />
is fragile - don't use scraper!<br />
is expensive<br />
needs to be clean<br />
don't leave the machine unattended<br />
heater could stick on if software crashes, for example<br />
<br />
general<br />
SD card eccentricities<br />
keep lid on when printing<br />
switch off when finished<br />
<br />
PLA vs ABS<br />
how to tell the difference<br />
different temperature<br />
biodegradable<br />
need to change temperature profiles!<br />
<br />
unload/load,<br />
different axles for different spools<br />
spool from under reel<br />
beware of wrapping round axle!<br />
colours (no need to run out all because test strip does that)<br />
setting PLA/ABS<br />
cut off lump<br />
<br />
printing<br />
preheating<br />
if model stuck, wait to cool<br />
keep an eye on it. can go strange half way!<br />
<br />
levelling<br />
not often needed<br />
symptoms of unlevelness<br />
first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
part not sticking<br />
worst case: head touching bed<br />
be careful not to damage kapton<br />
<br />
software/workflow<br />
(it is proposed that the course should not include detailed introduction to the<br />
software, as this is mostly obvious, can freely be downloaded, and is well documented) - if there is high demand, consider running a software training course<br />
scaffolding<br />
setting colours<br />
<br />
multicolour<br />
can't do scaffolding and multicolour - maybe not true anymore?<br />
issues with mixed materials<br />
<br />
other stuff<br />
strength characteristics - orientation is important<br />
don't use fine<br />
don't leave the room<br />
paying<br />
<br />
== Individual Training Task ==<br />
<br />
The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:<br />
<br />
Task<br />
* Make something?<br />
* Should demonstrate import, setup, position and run<br />
* possible examples (around 10m printing time)<br />
** plain_game_tokes 1/2/5<br />
** SpaceShuttle-small<br />
** CookieCutter_apple_small<br />
<br />
Steps<br />
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)<br />
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc<br />
* Proceed to printing (watch carefully all steps)<br />
<br />
Assuming all ok:<br />
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials<br />
* Add to the trained member list!<br />
<br />
== Project Oversight ==<br />
<br />
For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_Printer/TrainingEquipment/3D Printer/Training2014-05-01T21:04:05Z<p>HannahWray: /* Booking */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/3D Printer|3D Printer]] / Training<br />
<br />
= 3D Printer Training =<br />
<br />
This page documents the process for being trained on the 3D Printer, and the list of members who have completed that training.<br />
<br />
== Summary ==<br />
<br />
Training takes place in three main steps:<br />
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)<br />
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)<br />
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)<br />
<br />
Training on the 3D Printer is run by the 3D Printer Owners. The 3D Printer Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the 3D Printer, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the 3D Printer. <br />
<br />
== Booking ==<br />
<br />
This is no longer handled here on the wiki.<br />
<br />
For discussing and arranging slots, please use the mailing list thread [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/vNrS07zVuY0/discussion]. New training sessions will be announced on the Meetup group.<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* You can only be trained if you have RSVP'd to a Meetup session<br />
<br />
= Trained Users =<br />
<br />
The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the 3D Printer (note, they are not qualified to train others however):<br />
<br />
* Chris Abri<br />
* Rachel Rayns<br />
* Tom Ingham<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Moin Ali<br />
* Andy Fisher<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Yi Wei<br />
* Errol McMullen<br />
* Mark Watson<br />
* Catarina Violante<br />
* Maciek Piatek<br />
* Adrian van den Heever<br />
* Brian Corteil<br />
* Rod Williams<br />
* Peter Provis<br />
* Ben Evans<br />
* Roeland Schumacher<br />
* Archie Reid<br />
* Adrian Carr<br />
* Ward Hills<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Pop Sharma<br />
* Patrick Greaney<br />
* Kevin Latter<br />
* Martin de Selincourt<br />
* Alexis Mather<br />
* Andrew Dunn<br />
* Hannah Wray<br />
* Anne Harrison<br />
* Ben Alper<br />
* Ajith Shadakshari<br />
* Mark Mellors<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Alan Tennant<br />
* Jake Young<br />
* John Sturdy<br />
* David Bebb<br />
* Ben Wheatley<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Richard Mitchell (mandatory only)<br />
* Christie Nel (mandatory only)<br />
* Andrew Lipson (mandatory only)<br />
* Toby Roberts (mandatory only)<br />
* Dan Tidhar<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Matthew Ireland<br />
* Harry Braviner<br />
* Saar Drimer<br />
* Robert Hoff<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Armando Carlone<br />
* Marcin Izo<br />
* James Hutton (mandatory only)<br />
* Anthony Wainman (mandatory only)<br />
* Jia Wei Lim (mandatory only)<br />
* Julius Schmidt (mandatory only)<br />
* Hazel Jenkins (mandatory only)<br />
* Benjamin Kidder (mandatory only)<br />
* Joshua Keeler (mandatory only)<br />
* Simon Birrell (mandatory only)<br />
* John Simm (mandatory only)<br />
* Theo Sanderson (mandatory only)<br />
* Jon Aas (mandatory only)<br />
* Stephen Jeapes (mandatory only)<br />
* Anna Stoilova (mandatory only)<br />
* Jim Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Katia Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Aleksandar Tomic (mandatory only)<br />
* Gaye Saykok (mandatory only)<br />
* Fergus Riche (mandatory only)<br />
* David Barham (Mandatory only)<br />
* Marco Aita (Mandatory only)<br />
* Jason White (Mandatory only)<br />
* Brian Starkey (Mandatory only)<br />
* David Cox (Mandatory only)<br />
* Matt Grimes (Mandatory only)<br />
* Tim Regan (Mandatory only)<br />
* Stuart Wilson (Mandatory only)<br />
* Andy Spencer (Mandatory only)<br />
* Ester Leighton (Mandatory only)<br />
* Richard Fosh (Mandatory only)<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* John Campbell<br />
* Arun Rao<br />
* Peter Mottram<br />
* Marcin Zaba<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Dave Potts<br />
* Reid Potts<br />
* Mark Roberts<br />
* Piccardo Gheradi<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Robert Hogg<br />
* Michal Stefanow<br />
* Charlie Stokes<br />
* Leo Impett<br />
* Patrick Wollner<br />
* Patrick Baigent<br />
* Kate Aston<br />
* Shelagh Shepherd<br />
* Damien Guihen<br />
* Paul Edgington<br />
* Wayne Keenan<br />
* Liza Read<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Francisco Cordobes Aguilar<br />
* Nicola Powys<br />
* Jia Wei Lim<br />
* Sonya Sireau<br />
* Andrew Gale<br />
* Andre Powell<br />
* Tom Myers<br />
* Hidde-Jan Lemstra<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Alex Wortley<br />
* Jason Holloway<br />
* Alex Holloway<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Delayed training blacklist:'''<br />
<br />
Now on the wall in Makespace, near the 3D printers.<br />
<br />
= Training Cheatsheet =<br />
<br />
The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the 3D Printer Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitue for the training itself.<br />
<br />
== Group Training ==<br />
<br />
The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-5 members at a time in a 1 hr session.<br />
<br />
3D Printing Induction syllabus:<br />
<br />
how 3D printing works<br />
<br />
safety<br />
burn hazard<br />
nozzle and platter<br />
unit may move unexpectedly<br />
avoid prolonged exposure to ABS fumes<br />
<br />
damage to machine<br />
kapton<br />
is fragile - don't use scraper!<br />
is expensive<br />
needs to be clean<br />
don't leave the machine unattended<br />
heater could stick on if software crashes, for example<br />
<br />
general<br />
SD card eccentricities<br />
keep lid on when printing<br />
switch off when finished<br />
<br />
PLA vs ABS<br />
how to tell the difference<br />
different temperature<br />
biodegradable<br />
need to change temperature profiles!<br />
<br />
unload/load,<br />
different axles for different spools<br />
spool from under reel<br />
beware of wrapping round axle!<br />
colours (no need to run out all because test strip does that)<br />
setting PLA/ABS<br />
cut off lump<br />
<br />
printing<br />
preheating<br />
if model stuck, wait to cool<br />
keep an eye on it. can go strange half way!<br />
<br />
levelling<br />
not often needed<br />
symptoms of unlevelness<br />
first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
part not sticking<br />
worst case: head touching bed<br />
be careful not to damage kapton<br />
<br />
software/workflow<br />
(it is proposed that the course should not include detailed introduction to the<br />
software, as this is mostly obvious, can freely be downloaded, and is well documented) - if there is high demand, consider running a software training course<br />
scaffolding<br />
setting colours<br />
<br />
multicolour<br />
can't do scaffolding and multicolour - maybe not true anymore?<br />
issues with mixed materials<br />
<br />
other stuff<br />
strength characteristics - orientation is important<br />
don't use fine<br />
don't leave the room<br />
paying<br />
<br />
== Individual Training Task ==<br />
<br />
The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:<br />
<br />
Task<br />
* Make something?<br />
* Should demonstrate import, setup, position and run<br />
* possible examples (around 10m printing time)<br />
** plain_game_tokes 1/2/5<br />
** SpaceShuttle-small<br />
** CookieCutter_apple_small<br />
<br />
Steps<br />
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)<br />
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc<br />
* Proceed to printing (watch carefully all steps)<br />
<br />
Assuming all ok:<br />
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials<br />
* Add to the trained member list!<br />
<br />
== Project Oversight ==<br />
<br />
For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_PrinterEquipment/3D Printer2014-05-01T12:50:02Z<p>HannahWray: /* Other Details */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer<br />
<br />
= Introduction =<br />
3D printing is a way of creating small, custom objects from plastic filament. The printer melts the filament, held on a spool, and prints with it to create 3D structures. Makespace has two 3D printers, an UP! and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Currently, the Makerbot is the only printer working in the space. The UP! is out of action until it can be fixed by the owners (needs new electronic components).<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. <br />
<br />
The current Owners of the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:SimonS|Simon Stirley]]<br />
* [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]<br />
* [[User:Cvoth|Chris Voth]]<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.<br />
<br />
The current Trainers for the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
*[[User:HannahWray|Hannah Wray]]<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]<br />
<br />
Note that persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading its manual. See https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
== General Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers are excellent tools for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED'''<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
<br />
As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start<br />
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.<br />
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off<br />
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'pause' and 'stop printing' functions on the Makerbot so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.<br />
<br />
'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printers are heated, and will reach temperatures up to 253 degrees during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzles also get very hot. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the Makerbot's guard door securely closed while printing.<br />
* Be careful when the machines have recently been used, as they may still be hot enough to burn.<br />
<br />
'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.<br />
<br />
== Plastics used in the printers ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers can print with two different plastics, PLA and ABS. PLA has a much lower melting point than ABS, so all temperature settings for the printer need to be changed if you are switching between plastics. Normally ABS is what we would reccomend printing in: it is more durable and strong.<br />
<br />
Telling the difference between the plastics is fairly simple: if you take a piece of the PLA filament between your fingers you can break it off and snap it easily - it is brittle. When you try to break off a piece of ABS, it bends and the filament starts to go white, not breaking straight away.<br />
<br />
The ABS can be found on the shelves above the 3D printers, the small amount of PLA can be found in the lower down orange drawers (marked PLA).<br />
<br />
<br />
= Makerbot Replicator 2X 3D Printer =<br />
<br />
This is the Makerbot Replicator 2X, currently the only 3D printer working in the space. There is a dedicated PC next to it with the MakerWare software used to drive it. MakerWare can import STL design files (eg. from Thingiverse) for printing. The manual for this printer can be found here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
<br />
== Specific Safety Tips ==<br />
<br />
There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Makerbot will display its current temperatures for you if you use the arrow keys to navigate on its small display (see manual). The platter may also move unexpextedly. Do not open the front hatch or lift off the top transparent cover during printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventillated area.<br />
<br />
Don't let the machine run unattended - you don't need to watch a print constantly but keep an eye on it and always remain in the same room. Possible problems that would require you to pause or stop the machine include filament getting wrapped around the spool holder at the back and sticking, and a software crash on the PC. If you're unsure of a situation you can always pause your print and restart it.<br />
<br />
Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==<br />
<br />
The bed is covered with Kapton tape. This green, shiny tape is very fragile and expensive to replace and so you MUST NOT use a knife, scraper or other sharp object to remove your finished models. Use your hands only, or the plastic scraper with the Makerbot logo on in the red box as a last resort. Often, models will easily come free once the bed is allowed to cool, so give it 10 minutes and try again before resorting to this.<br />
<br />
The kapton tape needs to be kept clean so that plastic extruded onto it has a nice base finish and sticks well. If you notice smears or marks on the tape give it a gentle clean with a dry cloth from the red box on the shelf. Make sure your hands are clean and not greasy before you touch the platen or try to remove printed objects from it.<br />
<br />
If you do damage the tape, please let the owners know as soon as possible. Chris Voth's email address is on the little orange sign on the machine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Using SD cards with the Makerbot == <br />
<br />
We would recommend driving the Makerbot directly from the dedicated software on the PC next to it. If you want to use an SD card, it is very fussy. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card formatted this way, currently in the slot of the printer free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away! The SD card should contain .thing files to print from.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Loading and Unloading ==<br />
<br />
You will notice there are two print heads for this printer, driven by two separate spools of plastic on different axles.<br />
<br />
When you want to change spools, either to change colour or because a spool has nearly run out, follow these instructions, found on page 31 of the Manual. Go there if you have any questions about detail or need further instructions with illustrations. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
If you need to unload the MakerBot Filament, the LCD menu will walk you through the process. To run the script for unloading the filament from either extruder, go to the LCD panel and select Utilities > Filament Options > Unload (specify left or right). The LCD menu will walk you through the process. You will need to first remove the transparent lid to access the filament tubes. Be patient - yanking at the filament before it is ready to be removed may leave residue inside the extruders which is VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.<br />
<br />
When you are ready to load a fresh filament, the menu will walk you through the process. There is no need to worry about allowing extra printing to change colours fully afterwards because you'll print a test strip during changeover that does that. There is a step of 'cut off lump' which means you'll need to use the wire cutters provided to snip away this excess lump of test printed material.<br />
<br />
It is very important to make sure your spools are running in the correct direction. Ensure that the filament mounted on the right spool holder [when viewed from the back] unspools clockwise and that the filament mounted on the left spool unspools counterclockwise. Refer to the diagram you were shown during training, or to the manual.<br />
<br />
Also beware of wrapping round axle - sometimes the spools can get misaligned and filament ends up tightening and wrapping around the axle. This is very dangerous and printing should be stopped straight away to correct it. There is more of a danger of this happening if the spools are set up incorrectly.<br />
<br />
If you are changing between PLA and ABS you also need to change the temperature settings of the machine, since PLA will burn at the temperatures used for ABS, and ABS will not print at PLA temperatures. <br />
<br />
== Printing ==<br />
<br />
The printer always extrudes a test line along the front of the bed first. Make sure to remove this when you remove your print, and that your print location doesn't clash with it.<br />
<br />
Preheating the bed is helpful but not necessary - it will save you time. The printer will not print until the bed has heated up enough. You can select the left and/or right extruders to heat up as well. If you are only printing with one material, just select that extruder. Go to Utilities > Preheat > Start Preheat<br />
<br />
If a model is stuck, wait for the bed to cool - often they will come away very easily once cooled enough. Otherwise apply a gentle twisting action manually. As a last resort, use the plastic MakerBot branded paddle to scrape it away from the bed. Do NOT use metal knives - they will damage the kapton bed.<br />
<br />
Keep an eye on it. prints can go strange half way! Be ready to pause or stop while printing. You can find those options by pressing the left arrow while printing. You can always pause a print if you are uncertain - as long as you resume it within a couple of minutes, this shouldn't alter your final result.<br />
<br />
== Levelling ==<br />
<br />
This is not often needed. The symptoms of unlevelness are: <br />
<br />
- first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
- part not sticking<br />
<br />
In the worst case: the print head ends up touching the bed - HEAD CRASH. This is bad news. Level the bed before this stage is reached!<br />
<br />
To level the bed, go to Utilities > Level Build Plate. There are 3 screws underneath the build plate - see p23 of the Manual for a diagram on where they are located. The MakerBot software will guide you through the process of adjusting them to level the plate. The ideal to aim for is that a piece of paper should *just* slide through the gap between the extruder nozzle and the plate in each location.<br />
<br />
Be careful not to damage kapton tape while doing this!<br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
The software used with the MakerBot 2X is called MakerWare. It is well documented in the Manual and there are many online tutorials for its use, so we will not go into detail here.<br />
<br />
Some tips on our experience with the software:<br />
<br />
If there seems to be an unspecified software problem/crash, try selecting Services > Restart Background Service. This resets the connection to the printer. Don't do this while printing.<br />
<br />
Edit > Settings lets you select which plastic you have loaded into each extruder. You need to change this each time you load new plastic. When switching to PLA make sure to change the temperature profile here as well as switching colours.<br />
<br />
The Make button gives you settings for supports (colour matched is best), whether to have a raft (generally not needed), and resolution (standard is best). For a general guide, 4 shells with layer height h = 0.2mm generally works well. Experiment with infill settings - 15% is generally fine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Multicolour ==<br />
<br />
Can't do scaffolding and multicolour - This is not true anymore, we think.<br />
Issues with mixed materials. It might seem like a good idea to use a PLA scaffold for an ABS piece and then dissolve away the PLA in hot water, but this is in fact very difficult. It's better to think about scaffolding with weaker pieces of the same plastic, or changing a piece's orientation.<br />
<br />
== Other Details ==<br />
<br />
Don't leave the room while printing! The printer is very expensive and you don't want to have to explain the lump of plastic stuck to a now-unusable extruder is your fault. Play it safe, keep an eye on your prints.<br />
<br />
You need to pay for your prints once you have made them. The current rate is 10p/gram of material used - use the little scales on the shelves on top of the printer area to weigh your finished prints.<br />
<br />
= Using the UP! 3D Printer =<br />
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]<br />
<br />
This is the UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).<br />
The dedicated PC next to the printers is running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup. At the moment the UP! is out of action.<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''<br />
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket<br />
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Check calibration'''<br />
<br />
This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.<br />
<br />
# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar<br />
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort<br />
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button<br />
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.<br />
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar<br />
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Download to the Printer'''<br />
<br />
# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar<br />
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.<br />
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below<br />
# Press 'OK' to proceed<br />
# Watch the magic happen ...<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that<br />
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least<br />
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen<br />
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'<br />
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket<br />
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath<br />
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user<br />
<br />
'''Cost'''<br />
<br />
Currently we charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. You can weigh printed parts using the scales next to the blue honesty box. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')<br />
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants<br />
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Check the security and condition of all cabling<br />
* Check the UP! platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus<br />
* Strip coating off UP! platen and re-paint with a fresh coat<br />
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* None<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)<br />
* Week 09, February 25, <br />
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''<br />
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)<br />
* Week 12, March 18, <br />
* Week 13, March 25,<br />
* '''Week 14, April 1,''' <br />
<br />
<!--<br />
* Week 15, April 8, <br />
* Week 16, April 15,<br />
* Week 17, April 22, <br />
* '''Week 18, April 29, '''<br />
* Week 19, May 6, <br />
* Week 20, May 13, <br />
* Week 21, May 20, <br />
* '''Week 22, May 27, '''<br />
* Week 23, June 3, <br />
* Week 24, June 10, <br />
* Week 25, June 17, <br />
* '''Week 26, June 24, '''<br />
* Week 27, July 1, <br />
* Week 28, July 8, <br />
* Week 29, July 15, <br />
* '''Week 30, July 22, '''<br />
* Week 31, July 29, <br />
* Week 32, August 5, <br />
* Week 33, August 12,<br />
* '''Week 34, August 19, '''<br />
* Week 35, August 26, <br />
* Week 36, September 2, <br />
* Week 37, September 9, <br />
* '''Week 38, September 16, ''' <br />
* Week 39, September 23,<br />
* Week 40, September 30, <br />
* Week 41, October 7, <br />
* '''Week 42, October 14, '''<br />
* Week 43, October 21,<br />
* Week 44, October 28, <br />
* Week 45, November 4,<br />
* '''Week 46, November 11,'''<br />
* Week 47, November 18,<br />
* Week 48, November 25, <br />
* Week 49, December 2, <br />
* '''Week 50, December 9, '''<br />
* Week 51, December 16, <br />
* Week 52, December 23, <br />
--><br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
== Manual ==<br />
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]<br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
Our printer has been modified to support solid 3mm ABS plastic sheets as the base. These are disposable; they have to be cut from the big sheet and drilled using the jig we have created. The bolted-down solid plastic dramatically reduces problems with warping, and it also saves time and material when printing: you should disable the automatic raft. --><br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].<br />
<br />
* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below<br />
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked<br />
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files<br />
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files<br />
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_PrinterEquipment/3D Printer2014-05-01T12:46:35Z<p>HannahWray: /* General Health and Safety */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer<br />
<br />
= Introduction =<br />
3D printing is a way of creating small, custom objects from plastic filament. The printer melts the filament, held on a spool, and prints with it to create 3D structures. Makespace has two 3D printers, an UP! and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Currently, the Makerbot is the only printer working in the space. The UP! is out of action until it can be fixed by the owners (needs new electronic components).<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. <br />
<br />
The current Owners of the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:SimonS|Simon Stirley]]<br />
* [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]<br />
* [[User:Cvoth|Chris Voth]]<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.<br />
<br />
The current Trainers for the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
*[[User:HannahWray|Hannah Wray]]<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]<br />
<br />
Note that persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading its manual. See https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
== General Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers are excellent tools for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED'''<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
<br />
As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start<br />
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.<br />
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off<br />
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'pause' and 'stop printing' functions on the Makerbot so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.<br />
<br />
'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printers are heated, and will reach temperatures up to 253 degrees during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzles also get very hot. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the Makerbot's guard door securely closed while printing.<br />
* Be careful when the machines have recently been used, as they may still be hot enough to burn.<br />
<br />
'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.<br />
<br />
== Plastics used in the printers ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers can print with two different plastics, PLA and ABS. PLA has a much lower melting point than ABS, so all temperature settings for the printer need to be changed if you are switching between plastics. Normally ABS is what we would reccomend printing in: it is more durable and strong.<br />
<br />
Telling the difference between the plastics is fairly simple: if you take a piece of the PLA filament between your fingers you can break it off and snap it easily - it is brittle. When you try to break off a piece of ABS, it bends and the filament starts to go white, not breaking straight away.<br />
<br />
The ABS can be found on the shelves above the 3D printers, the small amount of PLA can be found in the lower down orange drawers (marked PLA).<br />
<br />
<br />
= Makerbot Replicator 2X 3D Printer =<br />
<br />
This is the Makerbot Replicator 2X, currently the only 3D printer working in the space. There is a dedicated PC next to it with the MakerWare software used to drive it. MakerWare can import STL design files (eg. from Thingiverse) for printing. The manual for this printer can be found here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
<br />
== Specific Safety Tips ==<br />
<br />
There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Makerbot will display its current temperatures for you if you use the arrow keys to navigate on its small display (see manual). The platter may also move unexpextedly. Do not open the front hatch or lift off the top transparent cover during printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventillated area.<br />
<br />
Don't let the machine run unattended - you don't need to watch a print constantly but keep an eye on it and always remain in the same room. Possible problems that would require you to pause or stop the machine include filament getting wrapped around the spool holder at the back and sticking, and a software crash on the PC. If you're unsure of a situation you can always pause your print and restart it.<br />
<br />
Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==<br />
<br />
The bed is covered with Kapton tape. This green, shiny tape is very fragile and expensive to replace and so you MUST NOT use a knife, scraper or other sharp object to remove your finished models. Use your hands only, or the plastic scraper with the Makerbot logo on in the red box as a last resort. Often, models will easily come free once the bed is allowed to cool, so give it 10 minutes and try again before resorting to this.<br />
<br />
The kapton tape needs to be kept clean so that plastic extruded onto it has a nice base finish and sticks well. If you notice smears or marks on the tape give it a gentle clean with a dry cloth from the red box on the shelf. Make sure your hands are clean and not greasy before you touch the platen or try to remove printed objects from it.<br />
<br />
If you do damage the tape, please let the owners know as soon as possible. Chris Voth's email address is on the little orange sign on the machine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Using SD cards with the Makerbot == <br />
<br />
We would recommend driving the Makerbot directly from the dedicated software on the PC next to it. If you want to use an SD card, it is very fussy. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card formatted this way, currently in the slot of the printer free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away! The SD card should contain .thing files to print from.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Loading and Unloading ==<br />
<br />
You will notice there are two print heads for this printer, driven by two separate spools of plastic on different axles.<br />
<br />
When you want to change spools, either to change colour or because a spool has nearly run out, follow these instructions, found on page 31 of the Manual. Go there if you have any questions about detail or need further instructions with illustrations. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
If you need to unload the MakerBot Filament, the LCD menu will walk you through the process. To run the script for unloading the filament from either extruder, go to the LCD panel and select Utilities > Filament Options > Unload (specify left or right). The LCD menu will walk you through the process. You will need to first remove the transparent lid to access the filament tubes. Be patient - yanking at the filament before it is ready to be removed may leave residue inside the extruders which is VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.<br />
<br />
When you are ready to load a fresh filament, the menu will walk you through the process. There is no need to worry about allowing extra printing to change colours fully afterwards because you'll print a test strip during changeover that does that. There is a step of 'cut off lump' which means you'll need to use the wire cutters provided to snip away this excess lump of test printed material.<br />
<br />
It is very important to make sure your spools are running in the correct direction. Ensure that the filament mounted on the right spool holder [when viewed from the back] unspools clockwise and that the filament mounted on the left spool unspools counterclockwise. Refer to the diagram you were shown during training, or to the manual.<br />
<br />
Also beware of wrapping round axle - sometimes the spools can get misaligned and filament ends up tightening and wrapping around the axle. This is very dangerous and printing should be stopped straight away to correct it. There is more of a danger of this happening if the spools are set up incorrectly.<br />
<br />
If you are changing between PLA and ABS you also need to change the temperature settings of the machine, since PLA will burn at the temperatures used for ABS, and ABS will not print at PLA temperatures. <br />
<br />
== Printing ==<br />
<br />
The printer always extrudes a test line along the front of the bed first. Make sure to remove this when you remove your print, and that your print location doesn't clash with it.<br />
<br />
Preheating the bed is helpful but not necessary - it will save you time. The printer will not print until the bed has heated up enough. You can select the left and/or right extruders to heat up as well. If you are only printing with one material, just select that extruder. Go to Utilities > Preheat > Start Preheat<br />
<br />
If a model is stuck, wait for the bed to cool - often they will come away very easily once cooled enough. Otherwise apply a gentle twisting action manually. As a last resort, use the plastic MakerBot branded paddle to scrape it away from the bed. Do NOT use metal knives - they will damage the kapton bed.<br />
<br />
Keep an eye on it. prints can go strange half way! Be ready to pause or stop while printing. You can find those options by pressing the left arrow while printing. You can always pause a print if you are uncertain - as long as you resume it within a couple of minutes, this shouldn't alter your final result.<br />
<br />
== Levelling ==<br />
<br />
This is not often needed. The symptoms of unlevelness are: <br />
<br />
- first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
- part not sticking<br />
<br />
In the worst case: the print head ends up touching the bed - HEAD CRASH. This is bad news. Level the bed before this stage is reached!<br />
<br />
To level the bed, go to Utilities > Level Build Plate. There are 3 screws underneath the build plate - see p23 of the Manual for a diagram on where they are located. The MakerBot software will guide you through the process of adjusting them to level the plate. The ideal to aim for is that a piece of paper should *just* slide through the gap between the extruder nozzle and the plate in each location.<br />
<br />
Be careful not to damage kapton tape while doing this!<br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
The software used with the MakerBot 2X is called MakerWare. It is well documented in the Manual and there are many online tutorials for its use, so we will not go into detail here.<br />
<br />
Some tips on our experience with the software:<br />
<br />
If there seems to be an unspecified software problem/crash, try selecting Services > Restart Background Service. This resets the connection to the printer. Don't do this while printing.<br />
<br />
Edit > Settings lets you select which plastic you have loaded into each extruder. You need to change this each time you load new plastic. When switching to PLA make sure to change the temperature profile here as well as switching colours.<br />
<br />
The Make button gives you settings for supports (colour matched is best), whether to have a raft (generally not needed), and resolution (standard is best). For a general guide, 4 shells with layer height h = 0.2mm generally works well. Experiment with infill settings - 15% is generally fine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Multicolour ==<br />
<br />
Can't do scaffolding and multicolour - This is not true anymore, we think.<br />
Issues with mixed materials. It might seem like a good idea to use a PLA scaffold for an ABS piece and then dissolve away the PLA in hot water, but this is in fact very difficult. It's better to think about scaffolding with weaker pieces of the same plastic, or changing a piece's orientation.<br />
<br />
== Other Details ==<br />
<br />
Don't leave the room while printing! The printer is very expensive and you don't want to have to explain the lump of plastic stuck to a now-unusable extruder is your fault. Play it safe, keep an eye on your prints.strength characteristics<br />
don't use fine<br />
<br />
You need to pay for your prints once you have made them. The current rate is 10p/gram of material used - use the little scales on the shelves on top of the printer area to weigh your finished prints.<br />
<br />
= Using the UP! 3D Printer =<br />
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]<br />
<br />
This is the UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).<br />
The dedicated PC next to the printers is running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup. At the moment the UP! is out of action.<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''<br />
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket<br />
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Check calibration'''<br />
<br />
This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.<br />
<br />
# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar<br />
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort<br />
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button<br />
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.<br />
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar<br />
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Download to the Printer'''<br />
<br />
# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar<br />
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.<br />
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below<br />
# Press 'OK' to proceed<br />
# Watch the magic happen ...<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that<br />
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least<br />
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen<br />
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'<br />
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket<br />
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath<br />
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user<br />
<br />
'''Cost'''<br />
<br />
Currently we charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. You can weigh printed parts using the scales next to the blue honesty box. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')<br />
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants<br />
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Check the security and condition of all cabling<br />
* Check the UP! platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus<br />
* Strip coating off UP! platen and re-paint with a fresh coat<br />
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* None<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)<br />
* Week 09, February 25, <br />
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''<br />
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)<br />
* Week 12, March 18, <br />
* Week 13, March 25,<br />
* '''Week 14, April 1,''' <br />
<br />
<!--<br />
* Week 15, April 8, <br />
* Week 16, April 15,<br />
* Week 17, April 22, <br />
* '''Week 18, April 29, '''<br />
* Week 19, May 6, <br />
* Week 20, May 13, <br />
* Week 21, May 20, <br />
* '''Week 22, May 27, '''<br />
* Week 23, June 3, <br />
* Week 24, June 10, <br />
* Week 25, June 17, <br />
* '''Week 26, June 24, '''<br />
* Week 27, July 1, <br />
* Week 28, July 8, <br />
* Week 29, July 15, <br />
* '''Week 30, July 22, '''<br />
* Week 31, July 29, <br />
* Week 32, August 5, <br />
* Week 33, August 12,<br />
* '''Week 34, August 19, '''<br />
* Week 35, August 26, <br />
* Week 36, September 2, <br />
* Week 37, September 9, <br />
* '''Week 38, September 16, ''' <br />
* Week 39, September 23,<br />
* Week 40, September 30, <br />
* Week 41, October 7, <br />
* '''Week 42, October 14, '''<br />
* Week 43, October 21,<br />
* Week 44, October 28, <br />
* Week 45, November 4,<br />
* '''Week 46, November 11,'''<br />
* Week 47, November 18,<br />
* Week 48, November 25, <br />
* Week 49, December 2, <br />
* '''Week 50, December 9, '''<br />
* Week 51, December 16, <br />
* Week 52, December 23, <br />
--><br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
== Manual ==<br />
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]<br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
Our printer has been modified to support solid 3mm ABS plastic sheets as the base. These are disposable; they have to be cut from the big sheet and drilled using the jig we have created. The bolted-down solid plastic dramatically reduces problems with warping, and it also saves time and material when printing: you should disable the automatic raft. --><br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].<br />
<br />
* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below<br />
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked<br />
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files<br />
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files<br />
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_Printer/TrainingEquipment/3D Printer/Training2014-05-01T12:24:22Z<p>HannahWray: /* Group Training */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/3D Printer|3D Printer]] / Training<br />
<br />
= 3D Printer Training =<br />
<br />
This page documents the process for being trained on the 3D Printer, and the list of members who have completed that training.<br />
<br />
== Summary ==<br />
<br />
Training takes place in three main steps:<br />
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)<br />
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)<br />
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)<br />
<br />
Training on the 3D Printer is run by the 3D Printer Owners. The 3D Printer Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the 3D Printer, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the 3D Printer. <br />
<br />
== Booking ==<br />
<br />
This is no longer handled here on the wiki.<br />
<br />
For discussing and arranging slots, please use the mailing list thread [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/vNrS07zVuY0/discussion]. New training sessions will be announced on the Meetup group.<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* You can only be trained if you have RSVP'd to a Meetup session (groups will be restricted to four at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)<br />
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day<br />
<br />
= Trained Users =<br />
<br />
The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the 3D Printer (note, they are not qualified to train others however):<br />
<br />
* Chris Abri<br />
* Rachel Rayns<br />
* Tom Ingham<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Moin Ali<br />
* Andy Fisher<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Yi Wei<br />
* Errol McMullen<br />
* Mark Watson<br />
* Catarina Violante<br />
* Maciek Piatek<br />
* Adrian van den Heever<br />
* Brian Corteil<br />
* Rod Williams<br />
* Peter Provis<br />
* Ben Evans<br />
* Roeland Schumacher<br />
* Archie Reid<br />
* Adrian Carr<br />
* Ward Hills<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Pop Sharma<br />
* Patrick Greaney<br />
* Kevin Latter<br />
* Martin de Selincourt<br />
* Alexis Mather<br />
* Andrew Dunn<br />
* Hannah Wray<br />
* Anne Harrison<br />
* Ben Alper<br />
* Ajith Shadakshari<br />
* Mark Mellors<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Alan Tennant<br />
* Jake Young<br />
* John Sturdy<br />
* David Bebb<br />
* Ben Wheatley<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Richard Mitchell (mandatory only)<br />
* Christie Nel (mandatory only)<br />
* Andrew Lipson (mandatory only)<br />
* Toby Roberts (mandatory only)<br />
* Dan Tidhar<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Matthew Ireland<br />
* Harry Braviner<br />
* Saar Drimer<br />
* Robert Hoff<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Armando Carlone<br />
* Marcin Izo<br />
* James Hutton (mandatory only)<br />
* Anthony Wainman (mandatory only)<br />
* Jia Wei Lim (mandatory only)<br />
* Julius Schmidt (mandatory only)<br />
* Hazel Jenkins (mandatory only)<br />
* Benjamin Kidder (mandatory only)<br />
* Joshua Keeler (mandatory only)<br />
* Simon Birrell (mandatory only)<br />
* John Simm (mandatory only)<br />
* Theo Sanderson (mandatory only)<br />
* Jon Aas (mandatory only)<br />
* Stephen Jeapes (mandatory only)<br />
* Anna Stoilova (mandatory only)<br />
* Jim Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Katia Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Aleksandar Tomic (mandatory only)<br />
* Gaye Saykok (mandatory only)<br />
* Fergus Riche (mandatory only)<br />
* David Barham (Mandatory only)<br />
* Marco Aita (Mandatory only)<br />
* Jason White (Mandatory only)<br />
* Brian Starkey (Mandatory only)<br />
* David Cox (Mandatory only)<br />
* Matt Grimes (Mandatory only)<br />
* Tim Regan (Mandatory only)<br />
* Stuart Wilson (Mandatory only)<br />
* Andy Spencer (Mandatory only)<br />
* Ester Leighton (Mandatory only)<br />
* Richard Fosh (Mandatory only)<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* John Campbell<br />
* Arun Rao<br />
* Peter Mottram<br />
* Marcin Zaba<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Dave Potts<br />
* Reid Potts<br />
* Mark Roberts<br />
* Piccardo Gheradi<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Robert Hogg<br />
* Michal Stefanow<br />
* Charlie Stokes<br />
* Leo Impett<br />
* Patrick Wollner<br />
* Patrick Baigent<br />
* Kate Aston<br />
* Shelagh Shepherd<br />
* Damien Guihen<br />
* Paul Edgington<br />
* Wayne Keenan<br />
* Liza Read<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Francisco Cordobes Aguilar<br />
* Nicola Powys<br />
* Jia Wei Lim<br />
* Sonya Sireau<br />
* Andrew Gale<br />
* Andre Powell<br />
* Tom Myers<br />
* Hidde-Jan Lemstra<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Alex Wortley<br />
* Jason Holloway<br />
* Alex Holloway<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Delayed training blacklist:'''<br />
<br />
Now on the wall in Makespace, near the 3D printers.<br />
<br />
= Training Cheatsheet =<br />
<br />
The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the 3D Printer Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitue for the training itself.<br />
<br />
== Group Training ==<br />
<br />
The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-5 members at a time in a 1 hr session.<br />
<br />
3D Printing Induction syllabus:<br />
<br />
how 3D printing works<br />
<br />
safety<br />
burn hazard<br />
nozzle and platter<br />
unit may move unexpectedly<br />
avoid prolonged exposure to ABS fumes<br />
<br />
damage to machine<br />
kapton<br />
is fragile - don't use scraper!<br />
is expensive<br />
needs to be clean<br />
don't leave the machine unattended<br />
heater could stick on if software crashes, for example<br />
<br />
general<br />
SD card eccentricities<br />
keep lid on when printing<br />
switch off when finished<br />
<br />
PLA vs ABS<br />
how to tell the difference<br />
different temperature<br />
biodegradable<br />
need to change temperature profiles!<br />
<br />
unload/load,<br />
different axles for different spools<br />
spool from under reel<br />
beware of wrapping round axle!<br />
colours (no need to run out all because test strip does that)<br />
setting PLA/ABS<br />
cut off lump<br />
<br />
printing<br />
preheating<br />
if model stuck, wait to cool<br />
keep an eye on it. can go strange half way!<br />
<br />
levelling<br />
not often needed<br />
symptoms of unlevelness<br />
first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
part not sticking<br />
worst case: head touching bed<br />
be careful not to damage kapton<br />
<br />
software/workflow<br />
(it is proposed that the course should not include detailed introduction to the<br />
software, as this is mostly obvious, can freely be downloaded, and is well documented) - if there is high demand, consider running a software training course<br />
scaffolding<br />
setting colours<br />
<br />
multicolour<br />
can't do scaffolding and multicolour - maybe not true anymore?<br />
issues with mixed materials<br />
<br />
other stuff<br />
strength characteristics - orientation is important<br />
don't use fine<br />
don't leave the room<br />
paying<br />
<br />
== Individual Training Task ==<br />
<br />
The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:<br />
<br />
Task<br />
* Make something?<br />
* Should demonstrate import, setup, position and run<br />
* possible examples (around 10m printing time)<br />
** plain_game_tokes 1/2/5<br />
** SpaceShuttle-small<br />
** CookieCutter_apple_small<br />
<br />
Steps<br />
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)<br />
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc<br />
* Proceed to printing (watch carefully all steps)<br />
<br />
Assuming all ok:<br />
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials<br />
* Add to the trained member list!<br />
<br />
== Project Oversight ==<br />
<br />
For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_PrinterEquipment/3D Printer2014-05-01T12:07:22Z<p>HannahWray: /*Using the MakerBot */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer<br />
<br />
= Introduction =<br />
3D printing is a way of creating small, custom objects from plastic filament. The printer melts the filament, held on a spool, and prints with it to create 3D structures. Makespace has two 3D printers, an UP! and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Currently, the Makerbot is the only printer working in the space. The UP! is out of action until it can be fixed by the owners (needs new electronic components).<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. <br />
<br />
The current Owners of the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:SimonS|Simon Stirley]]<br />
* [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]<br />
* [[User:Cvoth|Chris Voth]]<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.<br />
<br />
The current Trainers for the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
*[[User:HannahWray|Hannah Wray]]<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]<br />
<br />
Note that persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading its manual. See https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
== General Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers are excellent tools for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ RELEVANT SAFETY NOTES'''<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
<br />
As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start<br />
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.<br />
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off<br />
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'pause' and 'stop printing' functions on the Makerbot so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.<br />
<br />
'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printers are heated, and will reach temperatures up to 253 degrees during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzles also get very hot. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the Makerbot's guard door securely closed while printing.<br />
* Be careful when the machines have recently been used, as they may still be hot enough to burn.<br />
<br />
'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Plastics used in the printers ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers can print with two different plastics, PLA and ABS. PLA has a much lower melting point than ABS, so all temperature settings for the printer need to be changed if you are switching between plastics. Normally ABS is what we would reccomend printing in: it is more durable and strong.<br />
<br />
Telling the difference between the plastics is fairly simple: if you take a piece of the PLA filament between your fingers you can break it off and snap it easily - it is brittle. When you try to break off a piece of ABS, it bends and the filament starts to go white, not breaking straight away.<br />
<br />
The ABS can be found on the shelves above the 3D printers, the small amount of PLA can be found in the lower down orange drawers (marked PLA).<br />
<br />
<br />
= Makerbot Replicator 2X 3D Printer =<br />
<br />
This is the Makerbot Replicator 2X, currently the only 3D printer working in the space. There is a dedicated PC next to it with the MakerWare software used to drive it. MakerWare can import STL design files (eg. from Thingiverse) for printing. The manual for this printer can be found here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
<br />
== Specific Safety Tips ==<br />
<br />
There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Makerbot will display its current temperatures for you if you use the arrow keys to navigate on its small display (see manual). The platter may also move unexpextedly. Do not open the front hatch or lift off the top transparent cover during printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventillated area.<br />
<br />
Don't let the machine run unattended - you don't need to watch a print constantly but keep an eye on it and always remain in the same room. Possible problems that would require you to pause or stop the machine include filament getting wrapped around the spool holder at the back and sticking, and a software crash on the PC. If you're unsure of a situation you can always pause your print and restart it.<br />
<br />
Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==<br />
<br />
The bed is covered with Kapton tape. This green, shiny tape is very fragile and expensive to replace and so you MUST NOT use a knife, scraper or other sharp object to remove your finished models. Use your hands only, or the plastic scraper with the Makerbot logo on in the red box as a last resort. Often, models will easily come free once the bed is allowed to cool, so give it 10 minutes and try again before resorting to this.<br />
<br />
The kapton tape needs to be kept clean so that plastic extruded onto it has a nice base finish and sticks well. If you notice smears or marks on the tape give it a gentle clean with a dry cloth from the red box on the shelf. Make sure your hands are clean and not greasy before you touch the platen or try to remove printed objects from it.<br />
<br />
If you do damage the tape, please let the owners know as soon as possible. Chris Voth's email address is on the little orange sign on the machine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Using SD cards with the Makerbot == <br />
<br />
We would recommend driving the Makerbot directly from the dedicated software on the PC next to it. If you want to use an SD card, it is very fussy. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card formatted this way, currently in the slot of the printer free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away! The SD card should contain .thing files to print from.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Loading and Unloading ==<br />
<br />
You will notice there are two print heads for this printer, driven by two separate spools of plastic on different axles.<br />
<br />
When you want to change spools, either to change colour or because a spool has nearly run out, follow these instructions, found on page 31 of the Manual. Go there if you have any questions about detail or need further instructions with illustrations. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
If you need to unload the MakerBot Filament, the LCD menu will walk you through the process. To run the script for unloading the filament from either extruder, go to the LCD panel and select Utilities > Filament Options > Unload (specify left or right). The LCD menu will walk you through the process. You will need to first remove the transparent lid to access the filament tubes. Be patient - yanking at the filament before it is ready to be removed may leave residue inside the extruders which is VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.<br />
<br />
When you are ready to load a fresh filament, the menu will walk you through the process. There is no need to worry about allowing extra printing to change colours fully afterwards because you'll print a test strip during changeover that does that. There is a step of 'cut off lump' which means you'll need to use the wire cutters provided to snip away this excess lump of test printed material.<br />
<br />
It is very important to make sure your spools are running in the correct direction. Ensure that the filament mounted on the right spool holder [when viewed from the back] unspools clockwise and that the filament mounted on the left spool unspools counterclockwise. Refer to the diagram you were shown during training, or to the manual.<br />
<br />
Also beware of wrapping round axle - sometimes the spools can get misaligned and filament ends up tightening and wrapping around the axle. This is very dangerous and printing should be stopped straight away to correct it. There is more of a danger of this happening if the spools are set up incorrectly.<br />
<br />
If you are changing between PLA and ABS you also need to change the temperature settings of the machine, since PLA will burn at the temperatures used for ABS, and ABS will not print at PLA temperatures. <br />
<br />
== Printing ==<br />
<br />
The printer always extrudes a test line along the front of the bed first. Make sure to remove this when you remove your print, and that your print location doesn't clash with it.<br />
<br />
Preheating the bed is helpful but not necessary - it will save you time. The printer will not print until the bed has heated up enough. You can select the left and/or right extruders to heat up as well. If you are only printing with one material, just select that extruder. Go to Utilities > Preheat > Start Preheat<br />
<br />
If a model is stuck, wait for the bed to cool - often they will come away very easily once cooled enough. Otherwise apply a gentle twisting action manually. As a last resort, use the plastic MakerBot branded paddle to scrape it away from the bed. Do NOT use metal knives - they will damage the kapton bed.<br />
<br />
Keep an eye on it. prints can go strange half way! Be ready to pause or stop while printing. You can find those options by pressing the left arrow while printing. You can always pause a print if you are uncertain - as long as you resume it within a couple of minutes, this shouldn't alter your final result.<br />
<br />
== Levelling ==<br />
<br />
This is not often needed. The symptoms of unlevelness are: <br />
<br />
- first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
- part not sticking<br />
<br />
In the worst case: the print head ends up touching the bed - HEAD CRASH. This is bad news. Level the bed before this stage is reached!<br />
<br />
To level the bed, go to Utilities > Level Build Plate. There are 3 screws underneath the build plate - see p23 of the Manual for a diagram on where they are located. The MakerBot software will guide you through the process of adjusting them to level the plate. The ideal to aim for is that a piece of paper should *just* slide through the gap between the extruder nozzle and the plate in each location.<br />
<br />
Be careful not to damage kapton tape while doing this!<br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
The software used with the MakerBot 2X is called MakerWare. It is well documented in the Manual and there are many online tutorials for its use, so we will not go into detail here.<br />
<br />
Some tips on our experience with the software:<br />
<br />
If there seems to be an unspecified software problem/crash, try selecting Services > Restart Background Service. This resets the connection to the printer. Don't do this while printing.<br />
<br />
Edit > Settings lets you select which plastic you have loaded into each extruder. You need to change this each time you load new plastic. When switching to PLA make sure to change the temperature profile here as well as switching colours.<br />
<br />
The Make button gives you settings for supports (colour matched is best), whether to have a raft (generally not needed), and resolution (standard is best). For a general guide, 4 shells with layer height h = 0.2mm generally works well. Experiment with infill settings - 15% is generally fine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Multicolour ==<br />
<br />
Can't do scaffolding and multicolour - This is not true anymore, we think.<br />
Issues with mixed materials. It might seem like a good idea to use a PLA scaffold for an ABS piece and then dissolve away the PLA in hot water, but this is in fact very difficult. It's better to think about scaffolding with weaker pieces of the same plastic, or changing a piece's orientation.<br />
<br />
== Other Details ==<br />
<br />
Don't leave the room while printing! The printer is very expensive and you don't want to have to explain the lump of plastic stuck to a now-unusable extruder is your fault. Play it safe, keep an eye on your prints.strength characteristics<br />
don't use fine<br />
<br />
You need to pay for your prints once you have made them. The current rate is 10p/gram of material used - use the little scales on the shelves on top of the printer area to weigh your finished prints.<br />
<br />
= Using the UP! 3D Printer =<br />
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]<br />
<br />
This is the UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).<br />
The dedicated PC next to the printers is running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup. At the moment the UP! is out of action.<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''<br />
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket<br />
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Check calibration'''<br />
<br />
This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.<br />
<br />
# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar<br />
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort<br />
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button<br />
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.<br />
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar<br />
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Download to the Printer'''<br />
<br />
# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar<br />
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.<br />
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below<br />
# Press 'OK' to proceed<br />
# Watch the magic happen ...<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that<br />
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least<br />
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen<br />
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'<br />
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket<br />
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath<br />
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user<br />
<br />
'''Cost'''<br />
<br />
Currently we charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. You can weigh printed parts using the scales next to the blue honesty box. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')<br />
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants<br />
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Check the security and condition of all cabling<br />
* Check the UP! platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus<br />
* Strip coating off UP! platen and re-paint with a fresh coat<br />
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* None<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)<br />
* Week 09, February 25, <br />
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''<br />
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)<br />
* Week 12, March 18, <br />
* Week 13, March 25,<br />
* '''Week 14, April 1,''' <br />
<br />
<!--<br />
* Week 15, April 8, <br />
* Week 16, April 15,<br />
* Week 17, April 22, <br />
* '''Week 18, April 29, '''<br />
* Week 19, May 6, <br />
* Week 20, May 13, <br />
* Week 21, May 20, <br />
* '''Week 22, May 27, '''<br />
* Week 23, June 3, <br />
* Week 24, June 10, <br />
* Week 25, June 17, <br />
* '''Week 26, June 24, '''<br />
* Week 27, July 1, <br />
* Week 28, July 8, <br />
* Week 29, July 15, <br />
* '''Week 30, July 22, '''<br />
* Week 31, July 29, <br />
* Week 32, August 5, <br />
* Week 33, August 12,<br />
* '''Week 34, August 19, '''<br />
* Week 35, August 26, <br />
* Week 36, September 2, <br />
* Week 37, September 9, <br />
* '''Week 38, September 16, ''' <br />
* Week 39, September 23,<br />
* Week 40, September 30, <br />
* Week 41, October 7, <br />
* '''Week 42, October 14, '''<br />
* Week 43, October 21,<br />
* Week 44, October 28, <br />
* Week 45, November 4,<br />
* '''Week 46, November 11,'''<br />
* Week 47, November 18,<br />
* Week 48, November 25, <br />
* Week 49, December 2, <br />
* '''Week 50, December 9, '''<br />
* Week 51, December 16, <br />
* Week 52, December 23, <br />
--><br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
== Manual ==<br />
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]<br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
Our printer has been modified to support solid 3mm ABS plastic sheets as the base. These are disposable; they have to be cut from the big sheet and drilled using the jig we have created. The bolted-down solid plastic dramatically reduces problems with warping, and it also saves time and material when printing: you should disable the automatic raft. --><br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].<br />
<br />
* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below<br />
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked<br />
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files<br />
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files<br />
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_PrinterEquipment/3D Printer2014-01-13T19:54:15Z<p>HannahWray: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer<br />
<br />
= Introduction =<br />
3D printing is a way of creating small, custom objects from plastic filament. The printer melts the filament, held on a spool, and prints with it to create 3D structures. Makespace has two 3D printers, an UP! and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Currently, the Makerbot is the only printer working in the space. The UP! is out of action until it can be fixed by the owners (needs new electronic components).<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. <br />
<br />
The current Owners of the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:SimonS|Simon Stirley]]<br />
* [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]<br />
* [[User:Cvoth|Chris Voth]]<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.<br />
<br />
The current Trainers for the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
*[[User:HannahWray|Hannah Wray]]<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]<br />
<br />
Note that persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading its manual. See https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
== General Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers are excellent tools for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printers are:<br />
<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ RELEVANT SAFETY NOTES'''<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
<br />
As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start<br />
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.<br />
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off<br />
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'pause' and 'stop printing' functions on the Makerbot so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.<br />
<br />
'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printers are heated, and will reach temperatures up to 253 degrees during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzles also get very hot. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the Makerbot's guard door securely closed while printing.<br />
* Be careful when the machines have recently been used, as they may still be hot enough to burn.<br />
<br />
'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Plastics used in the printers ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printers can print with two different plastics, PLA and ABS. PLA has a much lower melting point than ABS, so all temperature settings for the printer need to be changed if you are switching between plastics. Normally ABS is what we would reccomend printing in: it is more durable and strong.<br />
<br />
Telling the difference between the plastics is fairly simple: if you take a piece of the PLA filament between your fingers you can break it off and snap it easily - it is brittle. When you try to break off a piece of ABS, it bends and the filament starts to go white, not breaking straight away.<br />
<br />
The ABS can be found on the shelves above the 3D printers, the small amount of PLA can be found in the lower down orange drawers (marked PLA).<br />
<br />
<br />
= Makerbot Replicator 2X 3D Printer =<br />
<br />
This is the Makerbot Replicator 2X, currently the only 3D printer working in the space. There is a dedicated PC next to it with the MakerWare software used to drive it. MakerWare can import STL design files (eg. from Thingiverse) for printing. The manual for this printer can be found here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
<br />
== Specific Safety Tips ==<br />
<br />
There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Makerbot will display its current temperatures for you if you use the arrow keys to navigate on its small display (see manual). The platter may also move unexpextedly. Do not open the front hatch or lift off the top transparent cover during printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventillated area.<br />
<br />
Don't let the machine run unattended - you don't need to watch a print constantly but keep an eye on it and always remain in the same room. Possible problems that would require you to pause or stop the machine include filament getting wrapped around the spool holder at the back and sticking, and a software crash on the PC. If you're unsure of a situation you can always pause your print and restart it.<br />
<br />
Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==<br />
<br />
The bed is covered with Kapton tape. This green, shiny tape is very fragile and expensive to replace and so you MUST NOT use a knife, scraper or other sharp object to remove your finished models. Use your hands only, or the plastic scraper with the Makerbot logo on in the red box as a last resort. Often, models will easily come free once the bed is allowed to cool, so give it 10 minutes and try again before resorting to this.<br />
<br />
The kapton tape needs to be kept clean so that plastic extruded onto it has a nice base finish and sticks well. If you notice smears or marks on the tape give it a gentle clean with a dry cloth from the red box on the shelf. Make sure your hands are clean and not greasy before you touch the platen or try to remove printed objects from it.<br />
<br />
If you do damage the tape, please let the owners know as soon as possible. Chris Voth's email address is on the little orange sign on the machine.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Using SD cards with the Makerbot == <br />
<br />
We would recommend driving the Makerbot directly from the dedicated software on the PC next to it. If you want to use an SD card, it is very fussy. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card formatted this way, currently in the slot of the printer free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away! The SD card should contain .thing files to print from.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Loading and Unloading ==<br />
<br />
You will notice there are two print heads for this printer, driven by two separate spools of plastic on different axles.<br />
<br />
When you want to change spools, either to change colour or because a spool has nearly run out, follow these instructions:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
different axles for different spools<br />
spool from under reel<br />
beware of wrapping round axle<br />
colours (no need to run out all because test strip does that)<br />
setting PLA/ABS<br />
cut off lump<br />
<br />
printing<br />
preheating<br />
if model stuck, wait to cool<br />
keep an eye on it. can go strange half way<br />
<br />
levelling<br />
not often needed<br />
symptoms of unlevelness<br />
first layer too thin or varying thickness<br />
part not sticking<br />
worst case: head touching bed<br />
be careful not to damage kapton<br />
<br />
software/workflow<br />
(it is proposed that the course should not include detailed introduction to the<br />
software, as this is mostly obvious, can freely be downloaded, and is well documented)<br />
scaffolding<br />
setting colours<br />
<br />
multicolour<br />
can't do scaffolding and multicolour - not true anymore<br />
issues with mixed materials<br />
<br />
other stuff<br />
strength characteristics<br />
don't use fine<br />
don't leave the room<br />
paying<br />
<br />
= Using the UP! 3D Printer =<br />
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]<br />
<br />
This is the UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).<br />
The dedicated PC next to the printers is running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup. At the moment the UP! is out of action.<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''<br />
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket<br />
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Check calibration'''<br />
<br />
This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.<br />
<br />
# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar<br />
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort<br />
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button<br />
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.<br />
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar<br />
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Download to the Printer'''<br />
<br />
# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar<br />
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.<br />
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below<br />
# Press 'OK' to proceed<br />
# Watch the magic happen ...<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that<br />
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least<br />
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen<br />
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'<br />
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket<br />
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath<br />
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user<br />
<br />
'''Cost'''<br />
<br />
Currently we charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. You can weigh printed parts using the scales next to the blue honesty box. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')<br />
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants<br />
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Check the security and condition of all cabling<br />
* Check the UP! platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus<br />
* Strip coating off UP! platen and re-paint with a fresh coat<br />
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* None<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)<br />
* Week 09, February 25, <br />
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''<br />
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)<br />
* Week 12, March 18, <br />
* Week 13, March 25,<br />
* '''Week 14, April 1,''' <br />
<br />
<!--<br />
* Week 15, April 8, <br />
* Week 16, April 15,<br />
* Week 17, April 22, <br />
* '''Week 18, April 29, '''<br />
* Week 19, May 6, <br />
* Week 20, May 13, <br />
* Week 21, May 20, <br />
* '''Week 22, May 27, '''<br />
* Week 23, June 3, <br />
* Week 24, June 10, <br />
* Week 25, June 17, <br />
* '''Week 26, June 24, '''<br />
* Week 27, July 1, <br />
* Week 28, July 8, <br />
* Week 29, July 15, <br />
* '''Week 30, July 22, '''<br />
* Week 31, July 29, <br />
* Week 32, August 5, <br />
* Week 33, August 12,<br />
* '''Week 34, August 19, '''<br />
* Week 35, August 26, <br />
* Week 36, September 2, <br />
* Week 37, September 9, <br />
* '''Week 38, September 16, ''' <br />
* Week 39, September 23,<br />
* Week 40, September 30, <br />
* Week 41, October 7, <br />
* '''Week 42, October 14, '''<br />
* Week 43, October 21,<br />
* Week 44, October 28, <br />
* Week 45, November 4,<br />
* '''Week 46, November 11,'''<br />
* Week 47, November 18,<br />
* Week 48, November 25, <br />
* Week 49, December 2, <br />
* '''Week 50, December 9, '''<br />
* Week 51, December 16, <br />
* Week 52, December 23, <br />
--><br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
== Manual ==<br />
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]<br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
Our printer has been modified to support solid 3mm ABS plastic sheets as the base. These are disposable; they have to be cut from the big sheet and drilled using the jig we have created. The bolted-down solid plastic dramatically reduces problems with warping, and it also saves time and material when printing: you should disable the automatic raft. --><br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].<br />
<br />
* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below<br />
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked<br />
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files<br />
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files<br />
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_Printer/TrainingEquipment/3D Printer/Training2014-01-12T22:27:12Z<p>HannahWray: /* Booking */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/3D Printer|3D Printer]] / Training<br />
<br />
= 3D Printer Training =<br />
<br />
This page documents the process for being trained on the 3D Printer, and the list of members who have completed that training.<br />
<br />
== Summary ==<br />
<br />
Training takes place in three main steps:<br />
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)<br />
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)<br />
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)<br />
<br />
Training on the 3D Printer is run by the 3D Printer Owners. The 3D Printer Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the 3D Printer, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the 3D Printer. <br />
<br />
== Booking ==<br />
<br />
This is no longer handled here on the wiki.<br />
<br />
For discussing and arranging slots, please use the mailing list thread [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/vNrS07zVuY0/discussion]. New training sessions will be announced on the Meetup group.<br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* You can only be trained if you have RSVP'd to a Meetup session (groups will be restricted to four at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)<br />
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day<br />
<br />
= Trained Users =<br />
<br />
The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the 3D Printer (note, they are not qualified to train others however):<br />
<br />
* Chris Abri<br />
* Rachel Rayns<br />
* Tom Ingham<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Moin Ali<br />
* Andy Fisher<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Yi Wei<br />
* Errol McMullen<br />
* Mark Watson<br />
* Catarina Violante<br />
* Maciek Piatek<br />
* Adrian van den Heever<br />
* Brian Corteil<br />
* Rod Williams<br />
* Peter Provis<br />
* Ben Evans<br />
* Roeland Schumacher<br />
* Archie Reid<br />
* Adrian Carr<br />
* Ward Hills<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Pop Sharma<br />
* Patrick Greaney<br />
* Kevin Latter<br />
* Martin de Selincourt<br />
* Alexis Mather<br />
* Andrew Dunn<br />
* Hannah Wray<br />
* Anne Harrison<br />
* Ben Alper<br />
* Ajith Shadakshari<br />
* Mark Mellors<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Alan Tennant<br />
* Jake Young<br />
* John Sturdy<br />
* David Bebb<br />
* Ben Wheatley<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Richard Mitchell (mandatory only)<br />
* Christie Nel (mandatory only)<br />
* Andrew Lipson (mandatory only)<br />
* Toby Roberts (mandatory only)<br />
* Dan Tidhar<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Matthew Ireland<br />
* Harry Braviner<br />
* Saar Drimer<br />
* Robert Hoff<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Armando Carlone<br />
* Marcin Izo<br />
* James Hutton (mandatory only)<br />
* Anthony Wainman (mandatory only)<br />
* Jia Wei Lim (mandatory only)<br />
* Julius Schmidt (mandatory only)<br />
* Hazel Jenkins (mandatory only)<br />
* Benjamin Kidder (mandatory only)<br />
* Joshua Keeler (mandatory only)<br />
* Simon Birrell (mandatory only)<br />
* John Simm (mandatory only)<br />
* Theo Sanderson (mandatory only)<br />
* Jon Aas (mandatory only)<br />
* Stephen Jeapes (mandatory only)<br />
* Anna Stoilova (mandatory only)<br />
* Jim Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Katia Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Aleksandar Tomic (mandatory only)<br />
* Gaye Saykok (mandatory only)<br />
* Fergus Riche (mandatory only)<br />
* David Barham (Mandatory only)<br />
* Marco Aita (Mandatory only)<br />
* Jason White (Mandatory only)<br />
* Brian Starkey (Mandatory only)<br />
* David Cox (Mandatory only)<br />
* Matt Grimes (Mandatory only)<br />
* Tim Regan (Mandatory only)<br />
* Stuart Wilson (Mandatory only)<br />
* Andy Spencer (Mandatory only)<br />
* Ester Leighton (Mandatory only)<br />
* Richard Fosh (Mandatory only)<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* John Campbell<br />
* Arun Rao<br />
* Peter Mottram<br />
* Marcin Zaba<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Dave Potts<br />
* Reid Potts<br />
* Mark Roberts<br />
* Piccardo Gheradi<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Robert Hogg<br />
* Michal Stefanow<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Delayed training blacklist:'''<br />
<br />
Now on the wall in Makespace, near the 3D printers.<br />
<br />
= Training Cheatsheet =<br />
<br />
The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the 3D Printer Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitue for the training itself.<br />
<br />
== Group Training ==<br />
<br />
The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.<br />
<br />
Introduction of main components<br />
* Printer<br />
* PC<br />
* Materials<br />
<br />
Checks for everyone to do<br />
* Check in use, looks ok<br />
* <br />
<br />
Powering Up<br />
* Turning on<br />
<br />
Project walkthrough<br />
* Package function, import file types, location, scale<br />
<br />
Printer Operation<br />
* Start, pause and emergency stop function<br />
* Do job, pause/open lid, restart<br />
<br />
Hazards<br />
* --<br />
* Ensure confident of process<br />
<br />
Power Down<br />
* Switch off<br />
* Switch off PC<br />
<br />
== Individual Training Task ==<br />
<br />
The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:<br />
<br />
Task<br />
* Make something?<br />
* Should demonstrate import, setup, position and run<br />
* possible examples (around 10m printing time)<br />
** plain_game_tokes 1/2/5<br />
** SpaceShuttle-small<br />
** CookieCutter_apple_small<br />
<br />
Steps<br />
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)<br />
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc<br />
* Proceed to printing (watch carefully all steps)<br />
<br />
Assuming all ok:<br />
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials<br />
* Add to the trained member list!<br />
<br />
== Project Oversight ==<br />
<br />
For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_Printer/TrainingEquipment/3D Printer/Training2014-01-12T22:23:24Z<p>HannahWray: /* Trained Users */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/3D Printer|3D Printer]] / Training<br />
<br />
= 3D Printer Training =<br />
<br />
This page documents the process for being trained on the 3D Printer, and the list of members who have completed that training.<br />
<br />
== Summary ==<br />
<br />
Training takes place in three main steps:<br />
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)<br />
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)<br />
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)<br />
<br />
Training on the 3D Printer is run by the 3D Printer Owners. The 3D Printer Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the 3D Printer, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the 3D Printer. <br />
<br />
== Booking ==<br />
<br />
Please add your name to free slots in training sessions below.<br />
<br />
<br />
<!-- For discussing and arranging slots, please use the mailing list thread: '''[https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/vNrS07zVuY0/discussion Training : Laser Cutter]'''<br />
--><br />
<br />
Notes:<br />
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to four at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)<br />
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day<br />
<br />
= Trained Users =<br />
<br />
The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the 3D Printer (note, they are not qualified to train others however):<br />
<br />
* Chris Abri<br />
* Rachel Rayns<br />
* Tom Ingham<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Moin Ali<br />
* Andy Fisher<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Yi Wei<br />
* Errol McMullen<br />
* Mark Watson<br />
* Catarina Violante<br />
* Maciek Piatek<br />
* Adrian van den Heever<br />
* Brian Corteil<br />
* Rod Williams<br />
* Peter Provis<br />
* Ben Evans<br />
* Roeland Schumacher<br />
* Archie Reid<br />
* Adrian Carr<br />
* Ward Hills<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Pop Sharma<br />
* Patrick Greaney<br />
* Kevin Latter<br />
* Martin de Selincourt<br />
* Alexis Mather<br />
* Andrew Dunn<br />
* Hannah Wray<br />
* Anne Harrison<br />
* Ben Alper<br />
* Ajith Shadakshari<br />
* Mark Mellors<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Alan Tennant<br />
* Jake Young<br />
* John Sturdy<br />
* David Bebb<br />
* Ben Wheatley<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Richard Mitchell (mandatory only)<br />
* Christie Nel (mandatory only)<br />
* Andrew Lipson (mandatory only)<br />
* Toby Roberts (mandatory only)<br />
* Dan Tidhar<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Matthew Ireland<br />
* Harry Braviner<br />
* Saar Drimer<br />
* Robert Hoff<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Armando Carlone<br />
* Marcin Izo<br />
* James Hutton (mandatory only)<br />
* Anthony Wainman (mandatory only)<br />
* Jia Wei Lim (mandatory only)<br />
* Julius Schmidt (mandatory only)<br />
* Hazel Jenkins (mandatory only)<br />
* Benjamin Kidder (mandatory only)<br />
* Joshua Keeler (mandatory only)<br />
* Simon Birrell (mandatory only)<br />
* John Simm (mandatory only)<br />
* Theo Sanderson (mandatory only)<br />
* Jon Aas (mandatory only)<br />
* Stephen Jeapes (mandatory only)<br />
* Anna Stoilova (mandatory only)<br />
* Jim Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Katia Dilks (mandatory only)<br />
* Aleksandar Tomic (mandatory only)<br />
* Gaye Saykok (mandatory only)<br />
* Fergus Riche (mandatory only)<br />
* David Barham (Mandatory only)<br />
* Marco Aita (Mandatory only)<br />
* Jason White (Mandatory only)<br />
* Brian Starkey (Mandatory only)<br />
* David Cox (Mandatory only)<br />
* Matt Grimes (Mandatory only)<br />
* Tim Regan (Mandatory only)<br />
* Stuart Wilson (Mandatory only)<br />
* Andy Spencer (Mandatory only)<br />
* Ester Leighton (Mandatory only)<br />
* Richard Fosh (Mandatory only)<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* John Campbell<br />
* Arun Rao<br />
* Peter Mottram<br />
* Marcin Zaba<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Dave Potts<br />
* Reid Potts<br />
* Mark Roberts<br />
* Piccardo Gheradi<br />
* Edward Imhagwe<br />
* Robert Hogg<br />
* Michal Stefanow<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Delayed training blacklist:'''<br />
<br />
Now on the wall in Makespace, near the 3D printers.<br />
<br />
= Training Cheatsheet =<br />
<br />
The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the 3D Printer Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitue for the training itself.<br />
<br />
== Group Training ==<br />
<br />
The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.<br />
<br />
Introduction of main components<br />
* Printer<br />
* PC<br />
* Materials<br />
<br />
Checks for everyone to do<br />
* Check in use, looks ok<br />
* <br />
<br />
Powering Up<br />
* Turning on<br />
<br />
Project walkthrough<br />
* Package function, import file types, location, scale<br />
<br />
Printer Operation<br />
* Start, pause and emergency stop function<br />
* Do job, pause/open lid, restart<br />
<br />
Hazards<br />
* --<br />
* Ensure confident of process<br />
<br />
Power Down<br />
* Switch off<br />
* Switch off PC<br />
<br />
== Individual Training Task ==<br />
<br />
The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:<br />
<br />
Task<br />
* Make something?<br />
* Should demonstrate import, setup, position and run<br />
* possible examples (around 10m printing time)<br />
** plain_game_tokes 1/2/5<br />
** SpaceShuttle-small<br />
** CookieCutter_apple_small<br />
<br />
Steps<br />
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)<br />
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc<br />
* Proceed to printing (watch carefully all steps)<br />
<br />
Assuming all ok:<br />
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials<br />
* Add to the trained member list!<br />
<br />
== Project Oversight ==<br />
<br />
For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_PrinterEquipment/3D Printer2014-01-12T22:22:29Z<p>HannahWray: /* Using the UP! 3D Printer */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer<br />
<br />
= News =<br />
The new Makerbot Replicator 2X is the only printer currently working in the space. The UP! is out of action at the moment until it can be fixed (needs new electronic components).<br />
<br />
Persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading the manual. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
Please be aware of the following:<br />
<br />
1. Windows software is not working; use an SD card, download the Linux software onto your laptop, or use the Linux box near the printer.<br />
<br />
2. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card lying around near the printer, free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away!<br />
<br />
3. The bed is covered with Kapton tape. DO NOT use a knife to remove models (hand-applied force should be plenty). If it's stuck, let the bed cool down and try again. And if you damage the tape, LET THE OWNERS KNOW!<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]<br />
<br />
This is our 3D printer. The 3-D printer is an UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).<br />
<br />
We have a dedicated PC running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup.<br />
<br />
= Using the UP! 3D Printer =<br />
<br />
The 3D printer is an excellent tool for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. <br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. <br />
<br />
The current Owners of the 3D printer are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:SimonS|Simon Stirley]]<br />
* [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]<br />
* [[User:Cvoth|Chris Voth]]<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.<br />
<br />
The current Trainers for the 3D printer are:<br />
<br />
*[[User:HannahWray|Hannah Wray]]<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]<br />
<br />
== Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printer are:<br />
<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ RELEVANT SAFETY NOTES'''<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
<br />
As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start<br />
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machines memory.<br />
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off<br />
* Ensure you are familiar with the location of the power switch, to turn it off quickly should a problem occur<br />
<br />
'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printer is heated, and will reach temperatures during a print run which could cause skin burns. Also a malfunction could cause this to overheat.<br />
* Be careful when the machine is on, or has recently been used, to guard against burns<br />
<br />
'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''<br />
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket<br />
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Check calibration'''<br />
<br />
This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.<br />
<br />
# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar<br />
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort<br />
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button<br />
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.<br />
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar<br />
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Download to the Printer'''<br />
<br />
# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar<br />
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.<br />
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below<br />
# Press 'OK' to proceed<br />
# Watch the magic happen ...<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that<br />
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least<br />
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen<br />
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'<br />
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket<br />
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath<br />
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user<br />
<br />
'''Cost'''<br />
<br />
Currently we suggest to charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')<br />
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants<br />
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Check the security and condition of all cabling<br />
* Check the platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus<br />
* Strip coating off platen and re-paint with a fresh coat<br />
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* None<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)<br />
* Week 09, February 25, <br />
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''<br />
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)<br />
* Week 12, March 18, <br />
* Week 13, March 25,<br />
* '''Week 14, April 1,''' <br />
<br />
<!--<br />
* Week 15, April 8, <br />
* Week 16, April 15,<br />
* Week 17, April 22, <br />
* '''Week 18, April 29, '''<br />
* Week 19, May 6, <br />
* Week 20, May 13, <br />
* Week 21, May 20, <br />
* '''Week 22, May 27, '''<br />
* Week 23, June 3, <br />
* Week 24, June 10, <br />
* Week 25, June 17, <br />
* '''Week 26, June 24, '''<br />
* Week 27, July 1, <br />
* Week 28, July 8, <br />
* Week 29, July 15, <br />
* '''Week 30, July 22, '''<br />
* Week 31, July 29, <br />
* Week 32, August 5, <br />
* Week 33, August 12,<br />
* '''Week 34, August 19, '''<br />
* Week 35, August 26, <br />
* Week 36, September 2, <br />
* Week 37, September 9, <br />
* '''Week 38, September 16, ''' <br />
* Week 39, September 23,<br />
* Week 40, September 30, <br />
* Week 41, October 7, <br />
* '''Week 42, October 14, '''<br />
* Week 43, October 21,<br />
* Week 44, October 28, <br />
* Week 45, November 4,<br />
* '''Week 46, November 11,'''<br />
* Week 47, November 18,<br />
* Week 48, November 25, <br />
* Week 49, December 2, <br />
* '''Week 50, December 9, '''<br />
* Week 51, December 16, <br />
* Week 52, December 23, <br />
--><br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
== Manual ==<br />
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]<br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
Our printer has been modified to support solid 3mm ABS plastic sheets as the base. These are disposable; they have to be cut from the big sheet and drilled using the jig we have created. The bolted-down solid plastic dramatically reduces problems with warping, and it also saves time and material when printing: you should disable the automatic raft. --><br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].<br />
<br />
* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below<br />
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked<br />
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files<br />
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files<br />
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/3D_PrinterEquipment/3D Printer2014-01-12T22:19:07Z<p>HannahWray: /* News */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer<br />
<br />
= News =<br />
The new Makerbot Replicator 2X is the only printer currently working in the space. The UP! is out of action at the moment until it can be fixed (needs new electronic components).<br />
<br />
Persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading the manual. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf<br />
<br />
Please be aware of the following:<br />
<br />
1. Windows software is not working; use an SD card, download the Linux software onto your laptop, or use the Linux box near the printer.<br />
<br />
2. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card lying around near the printer, free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away!<br />
<br />
3. The bed is covered with Kapton tape. DO NOT use a knife to remove models (hand-applied force should be plenty). If it's stuck, let the bed cool down and try again. And if you damage the tape, LET THE OWNERS KNOW!<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]<br />
<br />
This is our 3D printer. The 3-D printer is an UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).<br />
<br />
We have a dedicated PC running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup.<br />
<br />
= Using the UP! 3D Printer =<br />
<br />
The 3D printer is an excellent tool for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. <br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. <br />
<br />
The current Owners of the 3D printer are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:SimonS|Simon Stirley]]<br />
* [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]<br />
* [[User:Cvoth|Chris Voth]]<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]<br />
<br />
== Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printer are:<br />
<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ RELEVANT SAFETY NOTES'''<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
<br />
As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start<br />
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machines memory.<br />
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off<br />
* Ensure you are familiar with the location of the power switch, to turn it off quickly should a problem occur<br />
<br />
'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printer is heated, and will reach temperatures during a print run which could cause skin burns. Also a malfunction could cause this to overheat.<br />
* Be careful when the machine is on, or has recently been used, to guard against burns<br />
<br />
'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''<br />
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket<br />
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Check calibration'''<br />
<br />
This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.<br />
<br />
# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar<br />
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort<br />
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button<br />
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.<br />
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar<br />
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.<br />
<br />
[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]<br />
'''Download to the Printer'''<br />
<br />
# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar<br />
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.<br />
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below<br />
# Press 'OK' to proceed<br />
# Watch the magic happen ...<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that<br />
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least<br />
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen<br />
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'<br />
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket<br />
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath<br />
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user<br />
<br />
'''Cost'''<br />
<br />
Currently we suggest to charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')<br />
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants<br />
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Check the security and condition of all cabling<br />
* Check the platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)<br />
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus<br />
* Strip coating off platen and re-paint with a fresh coat<br />
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* None<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)<br />
* Week 09, February 25, <br />
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''<br />
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)<br />
* Week 12, March 18, <br />
* Week 13, March 25,<br />
* '''Week 14, April 1,''' <br />
<br />
<!--<br />
* Week 15, April 8, <br />
* Week 16, April 15,<br />
* Week 17, April 22, <br />
* '''Week 18, April 29, '''<br />
* Week 19, May 6, <br />
* Week 20, May 13, <br />
* Week 21, May 20, <br />
* '''Week 22, May 27, '''<br />
* Week 23, June 3, <br />
* Week 24, June 10, <br />
* Week 25, June 17, <br />
* '''Week 26, June 24, '''<br />
* Week 27, July 1, <br />
* Week 28, July 8, <br />
* Week 29, July 15, <br />
* '''Week 30, July 22, '''<br />
* Week 31, July 29, <br />
* Week 32, August 5, <br />
* Week 33, August 12,<br />
* '''Week 34, August 19, '''<br />
* Week 35, August 26, <br />
* Week 36, September 2, <br />
* Week 37, September 9, <br />
* '''Week 38, September 16, ''' <br />
* Week 39, September 23,<br />
* Week 40, September 30, <br />
* Week 41, October 7, <br />
* '''Week 42, October 14, '''<br />
* Week 43, October 21,<br />
* Week 44, October 28, <br />
* Week 45, November 4,<br />
* '''Week 46, November 11,'''<br />
* Week 47, November 18,<br />
* Week 48, November 25, <br />
* Week 49, December 2, <br />
* '''Week 50, December 9, '''<br />
* Week 51, December 16, <br />
* Week 52, December 23, <br />
--><br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
== Manual ==<br />
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* TBD<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]<br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
Our printer has been modified to support solid 3mm ABS plastic sheets as the base. These are disposable; they have to be cut from the big sheet and drilled using the jig we have created. The bolted-down solid plastic dramatically reduces problems with warping, and it also saves time and material when printing: you should disable the automatic raft. --><br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].<br />
<br />
* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below<br />
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked<br />
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files<br />
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files<br />
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/MakespaceMakespace2014-01-12T22:17:23Z<p>HannahWray: /* How does Makespace work? */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WIP+Makespace-dan.png|thumb|frameless|400px|Makespace]]<br />
[http://makespace.org Makespace Homepage] / Wiki<br />
<br />
== What is in Makespace? ==<br />
<br />
* '''[[Equipment|Our Equipment]]'''<br />
* [[Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Things and stuff]] --- locator for smaller items<br />
<br />
== How does Makespace work? ==<br />
<br />
The space is great for individuals wanting to experiment, startups or companies wanting access to prototyping equipment, companies in the business who can come and do training and provide services beyond Makespace, and groups that want space to meet. Anyone who could benefit from a shared space focused on making things.<br />
<br />
At its core is a membership-based structure; the price of membership is £40/month inc VAT for full membership for 24/7 RFID access, or £33/month inc VAT for full student membership (no access outside of Cambridge university terms).<br />
<br />
It is a community run space; see:<br />
<br />
* [http://makespace.org Makespace Main Website]<br />
* [[Policies]] - ie how stuff works<br />
* Non-exhaustive [[People|list of people]] currently involved. Founder members can put their details on our real world makespace [[members wall]]<br />
<br />
== Getting involved ==<br />
<br />
If you'd like to express interest in Makespace, keep up to date with how things are going, or find out about upcoming real-world meetings, please join our [http://www.meetup.com/makespace Meetup] group.<br />
<br />
This is our main community list and you can see archive update posts on meetup, or [[Updates|here]].<br />
<br />
We also have a mailing list at http://groups.google.com/group/cammakespace. You can email the list at cammakespace@googlegroups.com. Posts from new users may be held for moderation.<br />
<br />
We are also present on IRC. Join #makespace on Freenode. You can also access this via your browser at http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=makespace<br />
<br />
And it doesn't just have to be electronic; here are some extra resources to help you spread the word in the real world:<br />
* [http://files.meetup.com/1669256/a5poster.pdf A5 Flyer]<br />
* [http://files.meetup.com/1669256/makespace-poster.pdf A4 Poster]<br />
Please post them in offices, clubs, related shops, and anywhere you think will catch the eye of an interested person! (we'll make up to date ones soon!)<br />
<br />
If you'd like to contribute to plans on the wiki, go for it. The [[Currently active and interesting]] page will show you where the action is at the moment. <br />
<br />
Help make sure everyone who should know about Makespace knows about Makespace!<br />
<br />
Various ways of how the Makespace community interacts are listed here: [[Communications]]<br />
<br />
Consider becoming an Owner or Trainer.<br />
A list of equipment owners can be found here [[OwnersPage]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Building Makespace Projects ==<br />
<br />
The founder members are now working on '''how the space should be used''' and the '''projects to make it happen''':<br />
* [[Space layout ideas]]<br />
* [[Storage]]<br />
* [[Kit wishlist]]<br />
* [[Equipment status database]]<br />
* [[Computers]]<br />
* [[Makespace member guidelines]]<br />
* [[How to do stuff for Makespace]]<br />
* [[Layout]]<br />
<br />
== Personal and Other Projects ==<br />
<br />
* [[Projects|Makespace projects]]<br />
* [[Arts and crafts]]<br />
* [[Plants]]<br />
<br />
We are also working on outreach activities as follows:<br />
* [[Engineering Festival 2011]]<br />
* [[Family Makers]]<br />
* [[Student Society]]<br />
* [[Arduino and Cake]]<br />
<br />
== Social Meetings ==<br />
There are always socials - and meetups and other things! The canonical means of arranging these is via Meetup: http://www.meetup.com/Makespace Check out [[Events policy|how to run an event in Makespace]].<br />
<br />
== Formal Meetings ==<br />
There are write-ups of planning and member meetings at [[Makespace/Meetings | Meetings]].<br />
<br />
== Sponsorship and Donations! ==<br />
<br />
Makespace is made possible by membership fees and sponsorship, and also support from Ideaspace. We gratefully receive any donations, however small, that can help with developing, running and improving Makespace for everyone.<br />
<br />
Also, we accept donations-in-kind. Head over to [[DonationsWelcome]], where we're tracking the things we need and the things people have that we might need, and read our [[Donations Policy]] about how to donate things.<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
[https://delicious.com/makespace Here] we keep our links and Refs for inspiration, suppliers, other hacker/makerspaces and the daily what. Do not hesitate to chip in.( u and p both = makespace]<br />
<br />
Some information about other groups around the world that may be of interest can be found on the [[Links|Links page]].<br />
<br />
Some projects may need external [[Service Suppliers]] for things we can't do in-house.</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Student_SocietyStudent Society2013-07-16T12:51:28Z<p>HannahWray: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:StudentSocIcon1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About The Society ==<br />
We're a Cambridge University student society. Our aims are promote Makespace to members of the University community and to make membership and use of Makespace more accessible on a student budget. Our more general aims are to promote playful hands-on tinkering, adapting, bodging and creating among students.<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Most recently, created a cardboard boat to take part in the 2013 annual Cambridge Cardboard Boat race. A very sturdy design let us make it to the end of the race intact and unsoggy. A sad lack of ability to steer meant we weren't the fastest though!<br />
<br />
[[File:Cardboardboatrace.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
==How to get in touch==<br />
Our mailing list is soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk<br />
<br />
We have a facebook group which can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/347350535367250/<br />
<br />
Our meetings are also posted on the Makespace Meetup group.</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Student_SocietyStudent Society2013-07-16T12:03:50Z<p>HannahWray: Created page with "thumb == About The Society == We're a Cambridge University student society. Our aims are promote Makespace to members of the University commun..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:StudentSocIcon1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About The Society ==<br />
We're a Cambridge University student society. Our aims are promote Makespace to members of the University community and to make membership and use of Makespace more accessible on a student budget. Our more general aims are to promote playful hands-on tinkering, adapting, bodging and creating among students.<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Most recently, created a cardboard boat to take part in the 2013 annual Cambridge Cardboard Boat race. A very sturdy design let us make it to the end of the race intact and unsoggy. A sad lack of ability to steer meant we weren't the fastest though!<br />
<br />
[[File:cardboardboatrace.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
==How to get in touch==<br />
Our mailing list is soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk<br />
<br />
We have a facebook group which can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/347350535367250/<br />
<br />
Our meetings are also posted on the Makespace Meetup group.</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/File:Cardboardboatrace.JPGFile:Cardboardboatrace.JPG2013-07-16T12:02:41Z<p>HannahWray: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/File:StudentSocIcon1.jpgFile:StudentSocIcon1.jpg2013-07-16T11:54:56Z<p>HannahWray: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:HannahWrayUser:HannahWray2013-07-16T11:51:24Z<p>HannahWray: Created page with "thumb == About Me == Name: Hannah Wray<br /> Location: Cambridge, during term time<br /> Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /> == Work == I'm a fourth year..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:HW_ID_photo.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: Hannah Wray<br /><br />
Location: Cambridge, during term time<br /><br />
Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I'm a fourth year Engineering student at the University of Cambridge, and the president of the Cambridge Makespace Society for students.<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
Jewellery making, calligraphy, laser cutting, knitting, building cardboard boats<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape, building the Makespace Cardboard Boat<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
If you are a student and want to get involved with Makespace, especially if you can't afford the monthly fees, get in touch with me or sign up to our mailing list: soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk for details of free open to all events running in the space for students and other ways to have fun and help out.<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
I'm quite good with Inkscape and the laser cutter. I like programming in Python, but am a little rusty. I'm very good with Photoshop and the Gimp. Not bad at knitting. I can have a crack at fine metalwork problems too, but Anne is more likely to be able to help you there.</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:47:38Z<p>HannahWray: /* Projects */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: real name<br /><br />
Location: Real World Location<br /><br />
Contact: email and phone<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
What I do for money<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
What I do for fun<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Projects<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
Things I can teach/show/help you with<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:46:50Z<p>HannahWray: Undo revision 3091 by HannahWray (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: real name<br /><br />
Location: Real World Location<br /><br />
Contact: email and phone<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
What I do for money<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
What I do for fun<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape, building the Makespace Cardboard Boat<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
Things I can teach/show/help you with<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:46:27Z<p>HannahWray: Undo revision 3089 by HannahWray (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: real name<br /><br />
Location: Real World Location<br /><br />
Contact: email and phone<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
What I do for money<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
What I do for fun<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape, building the Makespace Cardboard Boat<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
If you are a student and want to get involved with Makespace, especially if you can't afford the monthly fees, get in touch with me or sign up to our mailing list: soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk for details of free open to all events running in the space for students and other ways to have fun and help out.<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:46:17Z<p>HannahWray: Undo revision 3088 by HannahWray (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: real name<br /><br />
Location: Real World Location<br /><br />
Contact: email and phone<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
What I do for money<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
Jewellery making, calligraphy, laser cutting, knitting, building cardboard boats<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape, building the Makespace Cardboard Boat<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
If you are a student and want to get involved with Makespace, especially if you can't afford the monthly fees, get in touch with me or sign up to our mailing list: soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk for details of free open to all events running in the space for students and other ways to have fun and help out.<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:46:07Z<p>HannahWray: Undo revision 3087 by HannahWray (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: real name<br /><br />
Location: Real World Location<br /><br />
Contact: email and phone<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I am a fourth year Engineering student at the University of Cambridge, and the president of the Cambridge Makespace Society, a club for students who want to get involved with Makespace and find it hard to afford the fees.<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
Jewellery making, calligraphy, laser cutting, knitting, building cardboard boats<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape, building the Makespace Cardboard Boat<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
If you are a student and want to get involved with Makespace, especially if you can't afford the monthly fees, get in touch with me or sign up to our mailing list: soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk for details of free open to all events running in the space for students and other ways to have fun and help out.<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:45:36Z<p>HannahWray: Undo revision 3092 by HannahWray (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: Hannah Wray<br /><br />
Location: Cambridge (during University terms)<br /><br />
Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I am a fourth year Engineering student at the University of Cambridge, and the president of the Cambridge Makespace Society, a club for students who want to get involved with Makespace and find it hard to afford the fees.<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
Jewellery making, calligraphy, laser cutting, knitting, building cardboard boats<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape, building the Makespace Cardboard Boat<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
If you are a student and want to get involved with Makespace, especially if you can't afford the monthly fees, get in touch with me or sign up to our mailing list: soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk for details of free open to all events running in the space for students and other ways to have fun and help out.<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/Member%27s_SkillsMember's Skills2013-07-16T11:43:35Z<p>HannahWray: </p>
<hr />
<div>People of makespace. Note that this list might not be comprehensive<br />
<br />
<div class="memberslist"><br />
{| style="border-spacing: 0px; width: 75%; height: 300px"<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=dadabit|wikiusername=dadabit|realname=gaye dadabit|imagefile=gayedadabit.jpg }}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=srimech|wikiusername=JimM|realname=Jim MacArthur|imagefile=Jim3-scaled.jpeg }}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=LaurieJ|wikiusername=Laura|realname=Laura James <br \>(Co-founder <br \>and director)|imagefile=LJ-square2.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Brice|wikiusername=Brice|realname=Brice Fernandes|imagefile=Brice_stripes.jpg }}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=rjw57|wikiusername=Rjw57|realname=Rich Wareham|imagefile=rjw57_profile.jpg }}<br />
|- <br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=benjymous|wikiusername=Benjymous|realname=Richard Munn|imagefile=benjymous.jpg }}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=elsmorian|wikiusername=Elsmorian|realname=Chris Elsmore|imagefile=ElsmorianProfileSmall.jpg }}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Phil|wikiusername=Phil|realname=Phil Cowans|imagefile=Phil.jpg }}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Martin|wikiusername=Martin_de_S|realname=Martin de Selincourt|imagefile=Martin_de_S_pic.jpg }}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Kim|wikiusername=Kim SJ|realname=Kim Spence-Jones|imagefile=Kim_SJ_Photo_July_2012.jpg }}<br />
|-<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Molarch|wikiusername=Molarch|realname=Jonathan Moller|imagefile=JMollerSM.jpg }}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=SimonS|wikiusername=SimonS|realname=Simon Stirley|imagefile=P1030133.JPG }}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=JCGS|wikiusername=JCGS|realname=John Sturdy|imagefile=JCGS.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=heng|wikiusername=heng|realname=Henry Gomersall|imagefile=heng_photo.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Ste5eu|wikiusername=Ste5eu|realname=Steve Upton|imagefile=ste5eu_ms_unionjack.jpg}}<br />
|-<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=nickcadsoftuk|wikiusername=nickcadsoftuk|realname=Nicholas Johnson|imagefile=nickcadsoftuk_me_128px.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Uwe|wikiusername=Uboro|realname=Uwe Borowski|imagefile=ub.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Cvoth|wikiusername=Cvoth|realname=Chris Voth|imagefile=550719_10150969145629501_85666288_n.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Tom|wikiusername=Tomoinn|realname=Tom Oinn|imagefile=391654_10151074902824205_2051894982_n.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=markocosic|wikiusername=markocosic|realname=Marko Cosic|imagefile=Markocosic_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
|-<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=Hannah|wikiusername=HannahWray|realname=Hannah Wray|imagefile=HW_ID_photo.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=yournickname|wikiusername=yourusername|realname=Your Real Name|imagefile=yourusername_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=yournickname|wikiusername=yourusername|realname=Your Real Name|imagefile=yourusername_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=yournickname|wikiusername=yourusername|realname=Your Real Name|imagefile=yourusername_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=yournickname|wikiusername=yourusername|realname=Your Real Name|imagefile=yourusername_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
|-<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=yournickname|wikiusername=yourusername|realname=Your Real Name|imagefile=yourusername_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=yournickname|wikiusername=yourusername|realname=Your Real Name|imagefile=yourusername_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=yournickname|wikiusername=yourusername|realname=Your Real Name|imagefile=yourusername_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=yournickname|wikiusername=yourusername|realname=Your Real Name|imagefile=yourusername_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
| {{MemberDetails|nickname=yournickname|wikiusername=yourusername|realname=Your Real Name|imagefile=yourusername_mugshot.jpg}}<br />
|}<br />
</div><br />
<br />
= Skills =<br />
<br />
If you have knowledge to share with others, or are looking for expertise, check out the [[SkillsKnowhow|skills exchange]].</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/File:HW_ID_photo.jpgFile:HW ID photo.jpg2013-07-16T11:41:46Z<p>HannahWray: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/File:Yourusername_mugshot.jpgFile:Yourusername mugshot.jpg2013-07-16T11:40:28Z<p>HannahWray: uploaded a new version of &quot;File:Yourusername mugshot.jpg&quot;</p>
<hr />
<div></div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:34:40Z<p>HannahWray: /* Projects */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: Hannah Wray<br /><br />
Location: Cambridge (during University terms)<br /><br />
Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I am a fourth year Engineering student at the University of Cambridge, and the president of the Cambridge Makespace Society, a club for students who want to get involved with Makespace and find it hard to afford the fees.<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
Jewellery making, calligraphy, laser cutting, knitting, building cardboard boats<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape, building the Makespace Cardboard Boat<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
If you are a student and want to get involved with Makespace, especially if you can't afford the monthly fees, get in touch with me or sign up to our mailing list: soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk for details of free open to all events running in the space for students and other ways to have fun and help out.<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
I'm quite good with Inkscape and the laser cutter. I like programming in Python, but am a little rusty. I'm very good with Photoshop and the Gimp. Not bad at knitting. I can have a crack at fine metalwork problems too, but Anne is more likely to be able to help you there.</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:34:11Z<p>HannahWray: /* Tools I can help you with */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: Hannah Wray<br /><br />
Location: Cambridge (during University terms)<br /><br />
Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I am a fourth year Engineering student at the University of Cambridge, and the president of the Cambridge Makespace Society, a club for students who want to get involved with Makespace and find it hard to afford the fees.<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
Jewellery making, calligraphy, laser cutting, knitting, building cardboard boats<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
If you are a student and want to get involved with Makespace, especially if you can't afford the monthly fees, get in touch with me or sign up to our mailing list: soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk for details of free open to all events running in the space for students and other ways to have fun and help out.<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
I'm quite good with Inkscape and the laser cutter. I like programming in Python, but am a little rusty. I'm very good with Photoshop and the Gimp. Not bad at knitting. I can have a crack at fine metalwork problems too, but Anne is more likely to be able to help you there.</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:32:44Z<p>HannahWray: /* Things I can help you with */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: Hannah Wray<br /><br />
Location: Cambridge (during University terms)<br /><br />
Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I am a fourth year Engineering student at the University of Cambridge, and the president of the Cambridge Makespace Society, a club for students who want to get involved with Makespace and find it hard to afford the fees.<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
Jewellery making, calligraphy, laser cutting, knitting, building cardboard boats<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
If you are a student and want to get involved with Makespace, especially if you can't afford the monthly fees, get in touch with me or sign up to our mailing list: soc-makersoc-interested@lists.cam.ac.uk for details of free open to all events running in the space for students and other ways to have fun and help out.<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:30:40Z<p>HannahWray: /* Projects */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: Hannah Wray<br /><br />
Location: Cambridge (during University terms)<br /><br />
Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I am a fourth year Engineering student at the University of Cambridge, and the president of the Cambridge Makespace Society, a club for students who want to get involved with Makespace and find it hard to afford the fees.<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
Jewellery making, calligraphy, laser cutting, knitting, building cardboard boats<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
Finding funding for the student society, playing with Inkscape<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
Things I can teach/show/help you with<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:29:15Z<p>HannahWray: /* Interests */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: Hannah Wray<br /><br />
Location: Cambridge (during University terms)<br /><br />
Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I am a fourth year Engineering student at the University of Cambridge, and the president of the Cambridge Makespace Society, a club for students who want to get involved with Makespace and find it hard to afford the fees.<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
Jewellery making, calligraphy, laser cutting, knitting, building cardboard boats<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
What I'm working on<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
Things I can teach/show/help you with<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:28:34Z<p>HannahWray: /* Work */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: Hannah Wray<br /><br />
Location: Cambridge (during University terms)<br /><br />
Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I am a fourth year Engineering student at the University of Cambridge, and the president of the Cambridge Makespace Society, a club for students who want to get involved with Makespace and find it hard to afford the fees.<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
What I do for fun<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
What I'm working on<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
Things I can teach/show/help you with<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:YourusernameUser:Yourusername2013-07-16T11:27:13Z<p>HannahWray: /* About Me */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:yourusername_mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== About Me ==<br />
Name: Hannah Wray<br /><br />
Location: Cambridge (during University terms)<br /><br />
Contact: hw364@cam.ac.uk<br /><br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
What I do for money<br />
<br />
== Interests ==<br />
What I do for fun<br />
<br />
== Projects ==<br />
What I'm working on<br />
<br />
==Things I can help you with==<br />
Things I can teach/show/help you with<br />
<br />
== Tools I can help you with==<br />
Stuff I have or can access at work that might be useful</div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/File:Yourusername_mugshot.jpgFile:Yourusername mugshot.jpg2013-07-16T11:25:40Z<p>HannahWray: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>HannahWrayhttp://wiki.makespace.org/MakespaceMakespace2013-07-16T11:22:16Z<p>HannahWray: /* Personal and Other Projects */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WIP+Makespace-dan.png|thumb|frameless|400px|Makespace]]<br />
[http://makespace.org Makespace Homepage] / Wiki<br />
<br />
== What is in Makespace? ==<br />
<br />
* '''[[Equipment|Our Equipment]]'''<br />
* [[Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Things and stuff]] --- locator for smaller items<br />
<br />
== How does Makespace work? ==<br />
<br />
The space is great for individuals wanting to experiment, startups or companies wanting access to prototyping equipment, companies in the business who can come and do training and provide services beyond Makespace, and groups that want space to meet. Anyone who could benefit from a shared space focused on making things.<br />
<br />
At its core is a membership-based structure; the price of membership is £40/month inc vat for full membership for 24/7 RFID access.<br />
<br />
It is a community run space; see:<br />
<br />
* [http://makespace.org Makespace Main Website]<br />
* [[Policies]] - ie how stuff works<br />
* Non-exhaustive [[People|list of people]] currently involved. Founder members can put their details on our real world makespace [[members wall]]<br />
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== Getting involved ==<br />
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If you'd like to express interest in Makespace, keep up to date with how things are going, or find out about upcoming real-world meetings, please join our [http://www.meetup.com/makespace Meetup] group.<br />
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This is our main community list and you can see archive update posts on meetup, or [[Updates|here]].<br />
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We also have a mailing list at http://groups.google.com/group/cammakespace. You can email the list at cammakespace@googlegroups.com. Posts from new users may be held for moderation.<br />
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We are also present on IRC. Join #makespace on Freenode. You can also access this via your browser at http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=makespace<br />
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And it doesn't just have to be electronic; here are some extra resources to help you spread the word in the real world:<br />
* [http://files.meetup.com/1669256/a5poster.pdf A5 Flyer]<br />
* [http://files.meetup.com/1669256/makespace-poster.pdf A4 Poster]<br />
Please post them in offices, clubs, related shops, and anywhere you think will catch the eye of an interested person! (we'll make up to date ones soon!)<br />
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If you'd like to contribute to plans on the wiki, go for it. The [[Currently active and interesting]] page will show you where the action is at the moment. <br />
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Help make sure everyone who should know about Makespace knows about Makespace!<br />
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Various ways of how the Makespace community interacts are listed here: [[Communications]]<br />
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== Building Makespace Projects ==<br />
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The founder members are now working on '''how the space should be used''' and the '''projects to make it happen''':<br />
* [[Space layout ideas]]<br />
* [[Storage]]<br />
* [[Kit wishlist]]<br />
* [[Equipment status database]]<br />
* [[Computers]]<br />
* [[Makespace member guidelines]]<br />
* [[How to do stuff for Makespace]]<br />
* [[Layout]]<br />
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== Personal and Other Projects ==<br />
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* [[Projects|Makespace projects]]<br />
* [[Arts and crafts]]<br />
* [[Plants]]<br />
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We are also working on outreach activities as follows:<br />
* [[Engineering Festival 2011]]<br />
* [[Family Makers]]<br />
* [[Student Society]]<br />
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== Social Meetings ==<br />
There are always socials - and meetups and other things! The canonical means of arranging these is via Meetup: http://www.meetup.com/Makespace Check out [[Events policy|how to run an event in Makespace]].<br />
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== Formal Meetings ==<br />
There are write-ups of planning and member meetings at [[Makespace/Meetings | Meetings]].<br />
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== Sponsorship and Donations! ==<br />
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Makespace is made possible by membership fees and sponsorship, and also support from Ideaspace. We gratefully receive any donations, however small, that can help with developing, running and improving Makespace for everyone.<br />
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Also, we accept donations-in-kind. Head over to [[DonationsWelcome]], where we're tracking the things we need and the things people have that we might need, and read our [[Donations Policy]] about how to donate things.<br />
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Thanks!<br />
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==Links==<br />
[https://delicious.com/makespace Here] we keep our links and Refs for inspiration, suppliers, other hacker/makerspaces and the daily what. Do not hesitate to chip in.( u and p both = makespace]<br />
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Some information about other groups around the world that may be of interest can be found on the [[Links|Links page]].<br />
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Some projects may need external [[Service Suppliers]] for things we can't do in-house.</div>HannahWray