Makespace - User contributions [en]

Early Makespace

2018-06-21T20:22:18Z

JWoolf:

Use for past content that is no longer relevant but is nice to have as historical value.

How to buy things for Makespace

2018-06-21T20:11:25Z

JWoolf:

Please email management@makespace.org BEFORE you buy something for Makespace to let them know what you are purchasing, the cost and why Makespace needs it.

'''Wait for a response from a director before you purchase or you will not get paid back.'''

Email: management at makespace dot org

Early Makespace

2018-06-21T20:05:34Z

JWoolf: JWoolf moved page New page to Early Makespace

Early Makespace.

New page

2018-06-21T20:05:34Z

JWoolf: JWoolf moved page New page to Early Makespace

#REDIRECT [[Early Makespace]]

Early Makespace

2018-06-21T20:04:48Z

JWoolf: Pages from the past that we do not want to delete.

Early Makespace.

ProjectSpeedDating2

2018-06-21T19:42:27Z

JWoolf: /* Simprints */

This is the dump that came out of my text editor. Please feel free to clean it up! ~~

==Simprints==

* Wireless fingerprint reader. Lots of mobile health applications are being built and health workers in Africa have mobile phones typically. However, identifying people is very difficult * they often don’t know DOB, the names are al the same, etc.

The idea is to build a fingerprint scanner that can work over bluetooth. Nothing on the market is designed to work with mobiles, or if they are they are very expensive.
It should be
* Rugged
* Waterproof
* Shock proof
* Cheap

There’s a prototype already but they are looking for people to fill various roles.
* Hardware
* Embedded software developers
* Android developers (need to port a matching algorithm to mobile)
* Cloud systems developers (network, server - initially they want to setup the matching algorithm on the server)
* Solidworks developers

==64skies==
Pamela Wesson (pam@fantasia.uk.com)

Based on the experience of an installation by an artist where the sky was seen through a white square in the roof (my writeup doesn’t do this justice)

Art website of 64 skies from around the world. 64 webcams showing skies from all over the world. ability to zoom in and out.

This is strictly an art piece :)

Suggestions - make a kit that requires a webcam, rPi, not much else! Auction the squares?

==Cellular AutomaPONG==
Danny (danny.garden@gmail.com)

An evolution of a 1D pong ([http://www.instructables.com/id/monoPong/ simple example]) game based around a generic cellular automaton unit.

The unit (equivalent of each LED in the simple example above:
*A bright RGB led to illuminate it. The unit should have a diffuse plastic case to allow it the glow nicely.
*A simple state machine that can take an incoming "ball" and relay it on, or perhaps change the direction using game modes.
*Needs some kind of self aligning magnet setup to allow multiple units to be chained to make large networks.
*An input method to change the "mode" the unit is in e.g. relay, splitter, wall, multiplier etc.
*Needs to be cheap, we need like 100 of them to make an interesting game. If the prototype units aren't cheap we should at least have a route to cost down.

As well as the generic unit, there may need to be a Marshalling unit that keeps an eye on the game (watching for resonance behaviours and perturbing them to make sure the game flows freely, keeping score, initiating "special" game events etc). I'm thinking a RPi with a web interface or something along those lines. Also the Marshalling unit needs to have an accurate model of the active network of units, for this it might be worth implementing some kind of network search algorithm to "map" the network topology.

The aim is to build this system for the STEM Ambassador program in Cambridge([http://www.stemteameast.org.uk link]) (or anyone else who might be interested) so that they can deploy it as an interactive game during events, for example the upcoming Cambridge Science Fair.

==Live monitoring system (LMS)==
Stuart Wilson

Non-profits trying to slow down the rate of illegal logging.

Corruption is rife, so human-based systems are difficult to make work.

Can we use vehicle tracking systems to track the large vehicles that are essential for logging. Feed the data from the vehicle tracking system into a web-based frrontent. Overlay the vehicle activity over legal areas. Do the analysis to generate suspicious or illegal activity.

Allows you to better allocate your scarce human resources to the right place!

Lots of development has happened already and there’s a small amount of funding to make this work and to demonstrate something to the Congolese government.

Required:
- Software engineers for the web-side
- People interested in the overall objective

==Sub-Division==
John - jon.aas@ctinnovations.co.uk

Engineer by background who has worked for many years on subdividing a shape into cubes.

This is a practical use of 3D printing to demonstrate how subdivision can be done. There is an algorithm to determine how the subdivision should happen.

Currently the input/analysis stage is very time consuming. The aim of the project is to do the simulation and the input to the simulation very fast. Software required to allow a user to manipulate the properties of the shape in 3D - the software would need to direct/control some very powerful machines (eg multiCPU and GPGPU).

What’s required?
- People interested in the problem and into software
- People to work with them to make it happen

==Storage Robot for Makespace==
Mark Tillotson

A machine for storing the members’ boxes in the 4ft high spaces under the kitchen and cafe. The rooms are about 2x5m but not practical for humans to go in.

The idea is to make a machine that can collect boxes for people!

What’s done: Mark is working on the mechanical solution and can pickup boxes. Is planning on the gantry side
What needs to be done: Software, help with mounting etc
Other skills sought: Someone to think about whether this is commercializable!

An attempt to create a simulator: http://stefanow.net/stuff/robostorage/

==Softprinter==
Tom Myers & Alex McFadden

the dream of 3D printing has always been to move manufacturing back into our own homes so we can print something as and when we want it. Despite the years of development in 3d printing we’re still stuck with yoda statues and shot glasses

So, let’s make something that makes things more useful! Let’s make clothes. Download a file offline, customise it to your body shape, print it in the machine. Things will fit far better than things off the oeg.

Clear technological idea about what should be done. Old knitting machines needed a human operator, but we can mechanise this and actuate all parts of the machine that need it.

Currently doing hardware prototyping. They’re in the process of building the carriage. Not yet at the electronics.

Potential to disrupt the fashion industry. Short supply chain, custom made clothes.

What’s required
- Hardware people - physical prototyping comes first. Some software people to help build things that are controllable.

tm476@cam.cam.ac.uk

Cakespace

2018-06-21T19:22:18Z

JWoolf:

Cakespace is our Kitchen, tuck shop and chill out area.

Makespace provides tea, coffee, sugar and milk for all members and guests.

We also have a range of snacks on sale, all payable with card and/or phone using the iZettle.

Minimum payment is £1.

Cakespace no longer accepts IOU's. Please do not put the Members Account in Debt.

To put yourself in credit:

Tap Keypad.
Choose Amount.
In the description box type: Kitchen.
Pay :-)

Add your Full Name to the board with the Amount and CR.
Reduce amount as you use the tuck shop.

Enjoy.

Infrastructure/Member Personal Storage

2018-06-21T19:07:38Z

JWoolf:

'''It is important to remind all members that Makespace is not a long term storage facility for forgotten projects – it is space intended to invite and support active projects and the storage that we have needs to be prioritized for active projects.'''

Anything stored at Makespace must have:
Your Full Name. Email. Date added. Date of estimated completion.

The Storage Areas:

Laser cutter stock cupboard

The Trove

Underfloor Storage Areas (Trolleys)

Large Project storage area in the classroom

Your members box on the rack (full name and email only)

The Craft Room (Clothing Rail)

Trolleys and the underfloor storage area: Everything stored here will be moved out periodically. Your trolley must be able to be moved without what is being stored on it from falling off, it must be stable and be clearly labelled.

'''The Fire Marshall and University Safety Office will be coming around throughout the year to check that Makespace is up to standard. If we fall short, we could close. It’s that important. Please help us to maintain our great safety record.
'''

Infrastructure/Member Personal Storage

2018-06-21T19:07:12Z

JWoolf:

'''It is important to remind all members that Makespace is not a long term storage facility for forgotten projects – it is space intended to invite and support active projects and the storage that we have needs to be prioritized for active projects.'''

Anything stored at Makespace must have:
Your Full Name. Email. Date added. Date of estimated completion.

The Storage Areas:

Laser cutter stock cupboard

The Trove

Underfloor Storage Areas (Trolleys)

Large Project storage area in the classroom

Your members box on the rack (full name and email only)

The Craft Room (Clothing Rail)

Trolleys and the underfloor storage area: Everything stored here will be moved out periodically. Your trolley must be able to be moved without what is being stored on it from falling off, it must be stable and be clearly labelled.

The Fire Marshall and University Safety Office will be coming around throughout the year to check that Makespace is up to standard. If we fall short, we could close. It’s that important. Please help us to maintain our great safety record.

Infrastructure/Member Personal Storage

2018-06-21T19:06:18Z

JWoolf:

'''It is important to remind all members that Makespace is not a long term storage facility for forgotten projects – it is space intended to invite and support active projects and the storage that we have needs to be prioritized for active projects.'''

Anything stored at Makespace must have:
Your Full Name. Email. Date added. Date of estimated completion.

The Storage Areas:
Laser cutter stock cupboard
The Trove
Underfloor Storage Areas (Trolleys)
Large Project storage area in the classroom
Your members box on the rack (full name and email only)
The Craft Room (Clothing Rail)

Trolleys and the underfloor storage area: Everything stored here will be moved out periodically. Your trolley must be able to be moved without what is being stored on it from falling off, it must be stable and be clearly labelled.

The Fire Marshall and University Safety Office will be coming around throughout the year to check that Makespace is up to standard. If we fall short, we could close. It’s that important. Please help us to maintain our great safety record.

Member's Skills

2018-06-21T18:42:40Z

JWoolf: Replaced content with "Please see the Makespace Meetup Page."

Please see the Makespace Meetup Page.

Makespace

2018-06-21T18:30:22Z

JWoolf: /* Regular groups */

[[File:WIP+Makespace-dan.png|thumb|frameless|400px|Makespace]]
[http://makespace.org Makespace Homepage] / Wiki

== What is in Makespace? ==

* '''[[Equipment|Our Equipment]]'''
* [[Equipment Status]] (experimental page; may not be accurate)
* [[Infrastructure]]
* [[Things and stuff]] --- locator for smaller items

== How does Makespace work? ==

The space is great for individuals wanting to experiment, startups or companies wanting access to prototyping equipment, companies in the business who can come and do training and provide services beyond Makespace, and groups that want space to meet. Anyone who could benefit from a shared space focused on making things.

At its core is a membership-based structure; the price of membership is £40/month inc VAT for full membership for 24/7 RFID access, or £33/month inc VAT for full student membership (no access outside of Cambridge university terms).

It is a community run space; see:

* [http://makespace.org Makespace Main Website]
* [[Induction|Membership and inductions]]
* [[Useful makespace info for Members]]
* [[Policies]] - ie how stuff works
* [[Latest member news]] - a great place to start if you want to find out what's been happening lately or what's coming up
* Non-exhaustive [[People|list of people]] currently or previously involved.

== Getting involved ==

Members are encouraged, and non-members are welcome, to join our [http://groups.google.com/group/cammakespace mailing list]. You can read and post via the web interface or get messages delivered to your inbox.

If you'd like to find out about upcoming real-world meetings, please join our [http://www.meetup.com/makespace Meetup] group.

Members: please contribute to this wiki! If you spot something incomplete or out of date, just hit 'edit' and change it.

We also have an IRC channel (not much used of late): join #makespace on Freenode in your IRC client or via your browser at http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=makespace

Various communication channels are listed [[Communications|here]].

Consider becoming an Owner or Trainer.

== Other information ==

* [[Cakespace]]

* [[How to do stuff for Makespace]]

* [[Makespace member guidelines]]

* Some information about other groups around the world that may be of interest can be found on the [[Links|Links page]].

* Some projects may need external [[Service Suppliers]] for things we can't do in-house.

== Regular groups ==

Raspberry Pi-makers every Tuesday, check the Makespace Meetup page for details.

== Social Meetings ==

There are always socials - and meetups and other things! The canonical means of arranging these is via Meetup: http://www.meetup.com/Makespace Check out [[Events policy|how to run an event in Makespace]].

== Formal Meetings ==
There are write-ups of planning and member meetings at [[Makespace/Meetings | Meetings]].

== External meetings, conferences etc ==

We list some [[external events]] that may be of interest to Makespace members.

== Sponsorship and Donations! ==
We're grateful to the founding sponsors who helped set Makespace up. Most current running costs are met from membership payments but we gratefully receive any donations, however small, that can help with developing, running and improving Makespace for everyone. Contact management (at) makespace (dot) org. Thanks!

Meetings/OwnersClub20-05-2013

2018-06-21T18:26:17Z

JWoolf: /* Honesty Boxes */

= Attendees =

Names removed for GDPR. Listed in Google Spreadsheet. Request from Management. Apologies for the inconvenience.

= Actions / Decisions / Highlights =

=== Induction / Training nomenclature ===
Basic education of the risks and safe usage of equipment is covered in Induction. Some Owners may also offer a degree of Training, to help users become more skilled, but this is not assumed. Use of Red Tagged equipment requires completion and sign off of the appropriate Induction session. Experienced users must still complete the Induction session, but will probably not require further training.

=== Streamline risk assessment process ===
All new assessments to be live on the Wiki, members encouraged to review and discuss. Owners will then grab a Director and talk them through the document. This gives the Director more confidence that the assessment, owners confidence, and training plan are acceptable, letting them sign and file it more quickly. Record the signed timestamp, but leave the risk assessment editable to encourage continuous update and revision.

=== Induction timeslots ===
We should not plan a fixed timeslot for each piece of equipment, and should not look to book months ahead. Users need slots to move around as some people can't do evenings, others can't do weekends etc. Also Owners are donating their time, so must be allowed some flexibility (which booking 3 months in advance would lose), as cancelling slots should be avoided.

=== Purchase approvals process ===
We need to move to a more formal sign-off process, prior to expenditure. Simon to look into a suitable Google Doc for this, aiming for a lightweight way to allocate a PO number to approved purchases. People can still buy before approval, but do so at their own risk of non-reimbursement. Removal of cash from the kitchen for miscellaneous purchases to cease.

=== Clubs ===
We should encourage 'clubs' for trained users of some tools, to help share ideas and knowledge. Could include meets, discussion groups, email lists etc.

= Future Discussion =

* Formal policy for induction session no-shows and late arrivals to be agreed, aim to have all Owners follow the same scheme.
* Should there be a regular Makepsace newsletter?
* What should Makespace stock, what should users supply. Grey areas: Glues, solder, misc consumables.
* Should we be better prepared to fail people during induction sessions. How do we ensure people step in when they see dangerous behaviour. Difficult to police behaviour with 24/7 access.
* Workshop re-org: Look at moving safer, cleaner tools out. Roland mill and laser cutter likely candidates. Clear space, add more clear surfaces, room for more fun tools. Maybe re-purpose the Store Room.

= Notes =

Risk assessments still require a Director to sign them off, but the Director is also looking to ensure Owners are have a strong appreciation of the risks involved, and a good training plan to counter them.

Owners should try to anticipate maintenance costs and seek pre-approval for them. This will then allow stocking of replacement parts where appropriate (long lead-time, predictable wear & tear).

Owners need to monitor stock usage, and keep pricing schemes clear, quick and profitable.

The kiln has a very long cycle time (~8 hours) may need a booking or collaborative system.

The phone needs to a louder, clearer ringtone.

Training time should be tracked by owners, as Makespace has a responsibility to report on the total training hours donated by members.

== Positives from the Equipment Owners ==

# Training sessions are popular and appreciated
# Lots of demand for more training on: Laser, lathe
# Training sessions great for meeting new members, learning names

== Negatives from the Equipment Owners ==

# Laser needs more owners to help with maintenance
# Laser needs more trainers to help with backlog
# There is no queueing system for training slots
# Users are failing to clean the laser bed after use, fire hazard
# New power tools need owners, risk assessments, training
# Risk assessment sign off process is stalled
# Problem of no-shows at booked training sessions
# Some people assume Makespace has staff, need to ensure people realise everyone is volunteering their time
# Increase contribution, reduce assumption of entitlement amongst members
# Workshop can become crowded if training sessions overlap
# Some tools cause enough noise to disrupt training sessions
# Late arrivals for training sessions even more disruptive than no-shows, consider punctuality a requirement
# Unclear how owners should pay for equipment maintenance or setup costs
# Unclear what should be paid for from central funds, what users must supply themselves. Makespace cannot stock/supply everything.
# Fine metalwork bench requires very long training sessions, limits throughput and requires greater dedication from users and trainers.
# Equipment database could use some explanatory text on some fields.

Meetings/OwnersClub20-05-2013

2018-06-21T18:25:35Z

JWoolf: /* Attendees */

= Attendees =

Names removed for GDPR. Listed in Google Spreadsheet. Request from Management. Apologies for the inconvenience.

= Actions / Decisions / Highlights =

=== Induction / Training nomenclature ===
Basic education of the risks and safe usage of equipment is covered in Induction. Some Owners may also offer a degree of Training, to help users become more skilled, but this is not assumed. Use of Red Tagged equipment requires completion and sign off of the appropriate Induction session. Experienced users must still complete the Induction session, but will probably not require further training.

=== Honesty Boxes ===
We need to move to an honesty box per piece of equipment. Owners need visibility of payment for materials to best gauge prices and to pay for re-stocking. This allows owners to buy stock using their honesty box as they see fit. No plan for log-books, unlikely they would be used. Suitable boxes need to be sourced, labelled and deployed ASAP. The kitchen honesty box should only be used for the tuck shop.

=== Streamline risk assessment process ===
All new assessments to be live on the Wiki, members encouraged to review and discuss. Owners will then grab a Director and talk them through the document. This gives the Director more confidence that the assessment, owners confidence, and training plan are acceptable, letting them sign and file it more quickly. Record the signed timestamp, but leave the risk assessment editable to encourage continuous update and revision.

=== Induction timeslots ===
We should not plan a fixed timeslot for each piece of equipment, and should not look to book months ahead. Users need slots to move around as some people can't do evenings, others can't do weekends etc. Also Owners are donating their time, so must be allowed some flexibility (which booking 3 months in advance would lose), as cancelling slots should be avoided.

=== Purchase approvals process ===
We need to move to a more formal sign-off process, prior to expenditure. Simon to look into a suitable Google Doc for this, aiming for a lightweight way to allocate a PO number to approved purchases. People can still buy before approval, but do so at their own risk of non-reimbursement. Removal of cash from the kitchen for miscellaneous purchases to cease.

=== Clubs ===
We should encourage 'clubs' for trained users of some tools, to help share ideas and knowledge. Could include meets, discussion groups, email lists etc.

= Future Discussion =

* Formal policy for induction session no-shows and late arrivals to be agreed, aim to have all Owners follow the same scheme.
* Should there be a regular Makepsace newsletter?
* What should Makespace stock, what should users supply. Grey areas: Glues, solder, misc consumables.
* Should we be better prepared to fail people during induction sessions. How do we ensure people step in when they see dangerous behaviour. Difficult to police behaviour with 24/7 access.
* Workshop re-org: Look at moving safer, cleaner tools out. Roland mill and laser cutter likely candidates. Clear space, add more clear surfaces, room for more fun tools. Maybe re-purpose the Store Room.

= Notes =

Risk assessments still require a Director to sign them off, but the Director is also looking to ensure Owners are have a strong appreciation of the risks involved, and a good training plan to counter them.

Owners should try to anticipate maintenance costs and seek pre-approval for them. This will then allow stocking of replacement parts where appropriate (long lead-time, predictable wear & tear).

Owners need to monitor stock usage, and keep pricing schemes clear, quick and profitable.

The kiln has a very long cycle time (~8 hours) may need a booking or collaborative system.

The phone needs to a louder, clearer ringtone.

Training time should be tracked by owners, as Makespace has a responsibility to report on the total training hours donated by members.

== Positives from the Equipment Owners ==

# Training sessions are popular and appreciated
# Lots of demand for more training on: Laser, lathe
# Training sessions great for meeting new members, learning names

== Negatives from the Equipment Owners ==

# Laser needs more owners to help with maintenance
# Laser needs more trainers to help with backlog
# There is no queueing system for training slots
# Users are failing to clean the laser bed after use, fire hazard
# New power tools need owners, risk assessments, training
# Risk assessment sign off process is stalled
# Problem of no-shows at booked training sessions
# Some people assume Makespace has staff, need to ensure people realise everyone is volunteering their time
# Increase contribution, reduce assumption of entitlement amongst members
# Workshop can become crowded if training sessions overlap
# Some tools cause enough noise to disrupt training sessions
# Late arrivals for training sessions even more disruptive than no-shows, consider punctuality a requirement
# Unclear how owners should pay for equipment maintenance or setup costs
# Unclear what should be paid for from central funds, what users must supply themselves. Makespace cannot stock/supply everything.
# Fine metalwork bench requires very long training sessions, limits throughput and requires greater dedication from users and trainers.
# Equipment database could use some explanatory text on some fields.

How to buy things for Makespace

2018-05-20T09:29:32Z

JWoolf:

Purchasing policy is being updated.

Please email the Directors BEFORE you buy something for Makespace to let them know what you are purchasing and why Makespace needs it. Wait for a response before you buy or you may not get paid back.

Email: management at makespace dot org

Equipment/VacuumFormer

2018-05-19T07:49:51Z

JWoolf: /* Owners */

{{OrangeTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Vacuum Former

[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|460px|right|Vacuum Former]]

=WORK IN PROGRESS=

The vacuum former has been installed in the space and can be used safely with the instructions provided here. However, this page is still considered a work-in-progress - please add useful tips about using the vacuum former here.

== Summary ==

Vacuum forming is a technique that is used to shape a variety of plastics. It is used to form/shape thin plastic, usually plastics such as; polythene and perspex. Vacuum forming is used when an unusual shape like a ‘dish’ or a box-like shape is needed.

[http://wiki.makespace.org/File:Formech_300XQ.pdf Vacuum Former Manual]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scqkjU10198

The manual references an additional document that provides a more detailed guide including suggested timings and settings based on material. I have uploaded it to the wiki here: [http://wiki.makespace.org/File:FormechVacuumGuide.pdf Vacuum Guide]

Formech 300XQ

Technical Specifications

* Material size 450x300mm / 18x12"
* Forming area 430x280mm / 17x11"
* Max. depth of draw 160mm / 6.3"
* Max. material thickness 6mm / .25"
* Overall width 650mm / 25"
* Overall height 530mm / 20"
* Overall depth 970mm / 38"
* Weight 75kg / 165lbs

Here are some examples we've made on the Vacuum Former(please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:300XQ.gif
</gallery>

= Using the Vacuum Former =
== Owners ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the equipment, organising maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the Vacuum Former are:

* New owners welcomed, get in touch!

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the Vacuum Former, please use the mailing list thread:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/msg/cammakespace/LMH8YH7WjMk/6KwuQIKhBnMJ Discussion Log : Vacuum Former]

== Training ==

No formal training is required to operate the Vacuum Former. If you intend to make something using the vacuum former please read the Health & Safety and Safety Notes sections below before doing so. The manual is also available online in case you require additional information.

Informal training sessions will be listed in the Meetup diary

Requests for more sessions, or discussion about them should be directed to the discussion thread: Training:Vinyl Cutter

== Health and Safety ==

Risk assessment: [[Equipment/VacuumFormer/RiskAssessment]]

The Vacuum Former is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who understand what they are doing and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the Vacuum Former are:
* '''ONLY USE THE VACUUM FORMER IF YOU FEEL CONFIDENT AND COMPETENT TO DO SO'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE VACUUM FORMER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''FIRE''' - Heating the material for too long or with the wrong settings could result in the material igniting.

'''ELECTRIC SHOCKS''' - Regular maintenance & electric survey should mean machine is safe to use. Do not use if there are any signs of damage

'''BURNS''' - Caution should be taken when using machine, ensure formed part is cool before removing. Never operate with missing or damaged safety features.

== Instructions ==

[http://wiki.makespace.org/File:Formech_300XQ.pdf Vacuum Former Manual]

1. First, a former is made from a material such as a soft wood. The edges or sides are shaped at an angle so that when the plastic is formed over it, the former can be removed easily.

2. The former is placed in a vacuum former at the lowest position.

3. A sheet of plastic (for example, compressed polystyrene) is clamped in position above the mould.

4. The heater is then turned on and the plastic slowly becomes soft and pliable as it heats up. The plastic can be seen to 'warp' and 'distort' as the surface expands.

5. After a few minutes the plastic is ready for ‘forming’ as it becomes very flexible.

6. The heater is turned off and the mould is moved upwards by lifting the lever until it locks in position.

7. The 'vacuum' is turned on and this pumps out all the air beneath the plastic sheet. Atmospheric pressure above the plastic sheet pushes it down on the mould. At this stage the shape of the mould can be clearly seen through the plastic sheet. When the plastic has cooled sufficiently the vacuum pump is switched off.

8. The plastic sheet is removed from the vacuum former. The sheet has the shape of the former pressed into its surface.

9. The excess plastic is trimmed so that only the plastic required remains - the completed item.

===Reducing Windows===
Reducing windows allow the use of smaller sheet material for smaller mouldings. Reducing windows allow for better sheet utilisation.

To fit the reducing window.
* Lift the clamp frame.
* Place the lower reducing window plate on to the top frame aperture so that the corner locating screws are aligned.
* Place the top reducing window plate on the underside of the clamp frame. There are folded sections on the front and rear. The rear edge has the larger return and wraps completely around the clamp frame bar. The front fold is smaller and returns against the front clamp frame bar. The fixing bolt is fitted through the clamp frame bar and reducing plate and secured using the fixing nut.. See diagram below of side view of the top plate fitting.

[[image:Reducing_windows.PNG|600px]]

* Close the clamp frame. Check alignment oftop and bottom plate. Fit the required plastic material on the sealed lower reducing plate. The material toggle clamps will need adjusting so that the clamp frame can be locked to achieve the necessary clamping pressure.

== Heating times ==

Different materials and thickness require different heating times, here is a list that has been found to produce good results

?????

== Tips & Tricks ==

'''If the platform does not raise, ensure the heater is fully back.'''

'''DO NOT use to cook pizza'''

'''How long does it take to heat the plastic sheet?'''
* This depends on which material and thickness is specified.

'''How do I know when the plastic is ready to form?'''
* Generally speaking it is necessary with any new material to establish the correct heating cycle. Plastic is ready to form when it becomes soft and pliable especially nearer to the clamping frame. This is known as glass transition temperature (Tg). Once you have established the time you can set the heater timer for accurate and repeated heating cycles.

'''Why is the plastic webbing on the mould?'''
* Material is too hot.
* Insufficient vacuum.
* Excess of material. Use reducing windows.
* Poor mould design.

'''Why can't I achieve good definition on the finished part?'''
* Material too cold
* Mould too cold.
* Insufficient vacuum.
* Insufficient vacuum holes in the mould

'''Why Is the plastic thinning over the mould when formed?'''
* Sheet cooled whilst forming.
* Mould design with insufficient draft angles.
* Too thin plastic gauge.
* Pre-stretch required.
* Plug assist required.

'''Why does the plastic bubble and pit when heated?'''
* Material is Hygroscopic which needs to be pre-dried prior to forming.
* Overheating.
* Mould or plastic sheet too dusty

'''Why does the plastic stick to the mould when I try to release?'''
* Mould not fixed on baseboard.
* Insufficient draft.
* Mould undercuts.

== Material Stock ==
If you have any requests for material stock, please add them the [https://groups.google.com/d/msg/cammakespace/LMH8YH7WjMk/6KwuQIKhBnMJ Log].

Stock material will be provided and an honesty box will be provided.

The full aperture is 434x282mm
The larger reducing window is 230x207mm
The smaller reducing window is 134x134mm

The sheet of material needs to be larger than this to grip properly, at least 10mm all the way around possibly more.

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the Vacuum Former is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

'''Every job:''' None required

'''As required, by users:''' Ensure the inside of the machine and the heater tray is cleared of dust, dirt and debris. Do not allow dirt and loose particles to build up, particularly on the heater tray.

'''Monthly:''' Check strength of vacuum and condition of seals. Check state of electrical system.

== Maintenance Log ==

Installed on 26th July 2013. (with any luck)

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* Service Kit (~£50)

= Further Information =

http://www.formech.com/

Vac-forming acrylic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIHTECH5ObM

== Installation ==

Installed on 9th May 2013.

<gallery>
File:WP_20130726_001.jpg
File:WP_20130726_002.jpg
</gallery>

== Purchase ==
Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£2500)

== Notes ==

Equipment/Jigsaw

2018-05-19T07:37:03Z

JWoolf: /* Owners */

{{OrangeTool}}
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Jigsaw

[[File:Jigsaw.PNG|thumb|460px|right|Our Makita jigsaw]]

= Summary =
A jigsaw is a tool used for cutting arbitrary curves, such as stencilled designs or other custom shapes, into a piece of wood, metal, or other material. It can be used in a more artistic fashion than other saws, which typically cut in straight lines only.

== Owners ==

== Health and Safety ==
'''Sharp Object/material'''
* All cutting blades to be kept in their holders until they are required.
* Power supply to be disconnected when changing blades.
* Be aware of were the blade is in relation to body parts.
* Wait for the blade to stop moving before putting the tool down.

'''Slips, Trips and Falls'''
* Waste material/offcuts to be kept clear of work area.

'''Fire'''
* Equipment will be checked for defects before each use to minimise the risk of possible electrical faults or fire.
* Carbon Dioxide extinguisher to be available for any electrical fires

'''Electric shock'''
* The equipment will be checked before each use to ensure that there are no defects in the casing, battery or cutting head.

'''Sight/Noise/Dust/Vibration'''
* Goggles, ear defenders and dust mask to be worn when using the equipment.
* Regular brakes to prevent fingers becoming numb

'''Repetitive Action/Physical Fatigue'''
* Regular breaks if work is lasting more than 5 minutes in duration

== Training ==

To get trained on the Jigsaw you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Jigsaw Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Jigsaw/Training|Jigsaw Training]]

== Instructions ==
If you've never used a jigsaw before, please watch this video before attending any training session [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DuLVRLnSd8| Jigsaw Safety & Operation ]

Please refer to the [http://makespace.org/wiki/index.php/File:BJV180_manual.pdf product manual] for instructions on how to use the jigsaw. A printed copy is also kept with the jigsaw.

It is important to use the correct blade when making a cut. DO NOT use metal blades when cutting wood and vice versa.

The jigsaw uses 'T' type standard bayonet fitting blades.

Maximum cut depths:
* Metal (mild steel): 10mm
* Wood: 135mm

== Tips & Tricks ==
* Keep work area clean and well lit. Cluttered and dark areas invite accidents.
* Keep bystanders away while operating a power tool. Distractions can cause you to lose control.
* Do not expose power tools to rain or wet conditions. Water entering a power tool will increase the risk of electric shock.
* Remove any adjusting key or wrench before turning the power tool on. A wrench or a key left attached to a moving part of the power tool may result in personal injury.
* Do not overreach. Keep proper footing and balance at all times. This enables better control of the power tool in unexpected situations.
* Dress properly. Do not wear loose clothing or jewellery. Keep your hair, clothing, and gloves away from moving parts.
* Avoid cutting nails. Inspect work piece for any nails and remove them before operation.

* Tips for maintaining maximum battery life
** Charge the battery cartridge before completely discharging.
** Always stop tool operation and charge the battery cartridge when you notice less tool power.
** Never recharge a fully charged battery cartridge. Overcharging shortens the battery service life.
** Let a hot battery cartridge cool down before charging it.

== Maintenance ==
Every month inspect for damage and general wear and tear and asses state of stock blades and replace as needed.

Every six months the carbon motor brushes should be inspected for wear, and replaced as necessary.

== Further Information ==
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DuLVRLnSd8| Jigsaw Safety & Operation (video)]
* [[File:BJV180_manual.pdf|Manual]]

== Purchase ==
* Amazon £120

Equipment/PCB Mill

2018-05-18T19:36:34Z

JWoolf: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / PCB Mill

[[File:PCBMill.jpg|thumb|460px|right|PCB Mill]]

[[File:PCB_Mill_software.JPG|thumb|460px|right|PCB Mill software]]

= Summary: DECOMMISSIONED=

The PCB Mill is now decommissioned, do not use. Reason: poor bearings, low quality results, noone using it. Not worth maintaining.

The PCB mill is a computer controlled (CNC) tool that can be used to cut the tracks for printed circuit boards (PCB). Training is required before members use the equipment because it is easy for users to damage themselves and the tool. Maximum travel is about 300mm in the Y direction, about 190mm in X, and 35mm in Z.

Machine is a generic 'CNC 3020', easily searchable on e.g. youtube for videos of use and configuration:

* Configuration with LinuxCNC [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewtDYvcFZZ4 video]

== Owners ==

== Health and Safety ==
* Power supply to be switched off when changing tools.
* All cutting tools to be kept in their holders until they are required.
* Keep work area clear of waste material and offcuts.
* Check equipment for defects before each use to minimise the risk of possible electrical faults or fire.
* Carbon Dioxide extinguisher to be available for any electrical fires.
* Wear eye protection.

The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/PCB_Mill/RA]].

== Instructions ==
* '''Do not turn the black knobs on any of the three motors.''' Doing so may generate large voltages and damage the control board. Move only by command from the PC.

'''Initial Inspection'''
Check machine for clearance
Check X and Y axis for “Wiggle” - Indicative of under-tightened lead screw or loose grub screw on motor coupling

'''Tools Required'''
Allen Key
60 degree 0.1mm V-bit
0.8mm Carbide Drill
0.8mm Carbide 2flt End Mill (can also be used instead of the 0.8mm)
Spanners for Collet Lock Nut
Collet Lock Nut
3.175mm / 0.125"Collet

'''Procedure for Eagle BRD Files'''
This guide assumes you have your board design produced in Cadsoft Eagle.

* Have you BRD file in a subdirectory on a USB stick.
* With your eagle BRD file, drag it onto the eagle icon on the desktop.
* Within the board window, open the CAM processor (CAM Processor).
* Open the custom CAM job (File - Open - Job…).
* Open “Makespace_PCB_Mill-Eagle7.2.cam”.
You should not need to change any options unless you have an odd layout.
* Press the “Process Job” button and close the CAM processor when complete. ''Do not save the JOB unless you want to save your own copy onto removable media.''

You gerber files should now be with your BRD file.
* Drag the parent folder of your gerber files onto the “Make GCode” icon on the desktop.
Watch the output window for any errors.

''Common errors usually relate to bad outline. This is often caused by a component in eagle BRD has it’s layout on the dimension layer, causing overlapping / conflicting outlines.''

* Start PCBMill (LinuxCNC)

* When LinuxCNC has started, switch on the “Drive” switch on the mill.
* Ensure E-Stop is released.
* Press the “Power” icon in LinuxCNC.
* Press the “Home All” button to home the machine. Keep fingers, objects etc off the machine to prevent the head crashing into said objects. ''Be ready to hit ESC or E-Stop if you notice the cutting head on a path to destruction.''
* For 2 sided boards, place the PCB material on the right side of the bed on top of 2 tooling pins. Otherwise place the board to the left hand side of the bed.
* Secure the blank PCB material onto the machine bed using the appropriate clamps and with at least 5 pieces of copier paper under the board.
* First secure the bottom two hex bolts ensuring the probe wire is making contact with the copper board.
* Then secure the remaining clamps around the board with the black knobs.

'''Copper Engraving'''
* Open your top copper layer file (named “front.ngc”) (if 2 sided board - otherwise open "back.ngc")
* Press the “Change Tool” button to move the head to the tool change position.
* Fit the V-bit. Always use a new V-bit at the start of the job.
* Use the PC keyboard’s arrow keys to jog the head (hold SHIFT for jog faster) above where you would like the PCB to be cut. Ensure you stay clear of any clamps. You MUST leave at least 5mm gap from the edge of the PCB material or any tooling pins or clamps.
* For front.ngc this should be the bottom left of the area you wish to engrave, for back.ngc it should be the bottom right.
* Press the “Set Origin” button under the appropriate 1sided or 2sided tab. The tool will probe the PCB blank. Ensure what is about to be probed is conductive and connected to the probe otherwise you WILL break a tool.
* Press the Run button (Blue Forward Arrow or “R” Key)
* The following the onscreen instructions, the board will then be probed. DO NOT HAVE THE SPINDLE RUNNING!
* If while probing it looks like the tool head is going to hit a solid object like a clamp, press the ESC key!
* When probing is complete, follow the on screen instructions (Turn spindle on and at 100%). Then press “S <Resume>”
* When finished milling. Stop the spindle.

Repeat the above for the second side (if required) ensuring you flip the board over to the other side of the machine bed. Press the "Park Head" button to give you clear access to the board.

'''Drilling'''
* Load the “drill.ngc” file.
* Press “Change Tool”
* Fit a 0.8mm drill (or end mill if you prefer not to change tool again) The drilling may not be as sharp with the end mill but most times the results are acceptable.
* Press “Zero Tool (Workpiece)”
* Switch on spindle and press the Run button again.
* Follow any on screen instructions. Ignore any tool change requests and press S (or pause) to resume.
* When drilling is complete. Switch off spindle.

'''Outline Routing'''
* Load the “outline.ngc” file.
* Press “Change Tool” and fit a 0.8mm end mill if not already fitted.
* Press “Zero Tool (Workpiece)”
* Start spindle.
* Press the Run button.
* Follow any on screen instructions.
If board comes loose during outline milling, immediately press the ESC key and switch off spindle. A loose board can cause injury and machine damage.
*When outline milling complete. Switch off spindle.

'''Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from board BEFORE attempting to remove the board from the machine. DO NOT be tempted to “blow” the dust off the board at any point in the milling process.'''

* Press the "Park Head" button.
* Switch off drive switch and press emergency stop.
Remember to pay for your boards in the honesty box.
* Put the used V-bit into the box for recycling.
* Clean the machine thorougly.
If you are the last to use the machine, shut down the PC.

'''Prices'''
Single Sided
£4.00 per full board
£2.00 for half board
£1.50 for anything a quarter of a board or less.

Double Sided
£5.00 per full board
£2.50 per half board
£2.00 for anything a quarter of a board or less.

If you supply your own material, the tooling charge is 50p. You MAY use a used engraving bit for free (on your own material only) but your results may be less than optimal.

== Tips & Tricks ==

== Maintenance ==

= Training =
To get trained on the mill contact one of the owners.

Sessions are advertised on http://meetup.makespace.org

More about the training can be found at
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill/Training|PCB Mill Training]]

== Further Information ==

Equipment/Laser Cutter/Training

2018-05-18T19:33:27Z

JWoolf: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]] / Training

= Laser Cutter Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the Laser Cutter, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)

Training on the Laser Cutter is run by the Laser Cutter Owners. The Laser Cutter Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the laser cutter, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the laser cutter.

== Booking ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots if needed, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/vNrS07zVuY0/discussion Training : Laser Cutter]

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to four at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day

= Trained Users =

The following members of Makespace are owner/trainers of the laser cutter:

* Mat Cook

The following members of Makespace are trainers on the laser cutter:

* Brian Starkey
* Katy Marshall
*David Barham

The following members of Makespace are owners on the laser cutter:

* Diana Probst
* Mat Cook

= Training Cheatsheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the Laser Cutter Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

Introduction of main components
* Laser
* Cutting Mechanics
* Water Cooler System
* Filter
* PC
* Materials (what it can cut, supply)

Checks for everyone to do
* Check in use, looks ok
* Check water bath, temperature

Powering Up
* Turning on filter (Tick = ok, Warning = tell the owners, Cross = don't use it and tell the owners)
* Turning on Laser and warmup, what to do if doesn't power up
* Turning on PC and starting software

LaserCut Project walkthrough (using M+S+text keyring example)
* Package function, drawing, import file types
* Bed dimensions
* Paths, yellow dots, 'united' shapes
* Blue dot, Immediate mode
* Layers and colours
* Through cut, surface cut and engraving, speeds and strengths
* Various steps to build keyring design (shapes, text, uniting, layers, alignment, scaling, layers)
* Job ordering
* Saving
* Download as immediate, delete, download current

Laser Operation
* Lid
* Control panel, escape
* Moving head XY, indicator laser, datum
* Moving Z
* Focus
* Start position and test
* Start, pause and emergency stop function
* Do job, pause/open lid, restart

Laser Hazards
* Process and progression for normal operation failure (fire) - pause, open, move, CO2
* Process for abnormal operation failure (mechanical/jam) - emergency stop, open, move, CO2
* Ensure confident of process

Power Down
* Switch off laser
* Switch off filtration
* Clean any residue from the bed or bottom tray
* Close lid

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

Task
* Make a personalised focus tool
* Square acrylic of appropriate size
* Member's name, "Focus Tool", keychain hole
* Should use full cut, surface cut, engrave
* Should demonstrate all steps, size, appropriate ordering, positioning

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed to lasering (watch carefully all steps)
* Ask to stop job/restart, question escalation process

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Add to the trained member list!

== Project Oversight ==

For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)

Equipment/Laser Cutter

2018-05-18T19:30:50Z

JWoolf: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Laser Cutter

[[File:Makespace-laser-cutter.JPG|thumb|460px|right|Our LS6090 PRO Laser Cutter]]

= Summary =

We have two LS 6090 PRO Laser Cutters. Each has a working area of 900mm by 600mm, and is powered by a 60w CO2 Water Cooled Laser Tube that can engrave and cut through materials such as wood, plastic, card, leather, fabrics, up to about 10-15mm thick (note, it can not cut metal). The laser cut is approximately 0.15mm wide, and a job can take a few seconds through to tens of minutes depending on material thickness and design complexity.

We have dedicated PCs running LaserCut 5.3 software to import, prepare and download jobs to the Laser Cutter. It can import various formats, with DXF being the most commonly used, so various software packages can be used to create your designs.

Here are some examples of laser jobs we've run (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:Laser-cut-focus-tool.JPG
File:Laser-cut-front-panels.JPG
File:Laser-cut-lizards.JPG
File:Laser-cut-m-and-s.JPG
File:Laser-cut-model-building.JPG
File:Laser-cut-ply-m.JPG
File:Laser_output_-_makespace_arrow.JPG
File:Laser_box.jpg
File:Croc-small.jpg
File:LaserCutter_Jobs_1.jpg
File:LaserCutterGallery_20130328.jpg
File:LasercutSettlers.jpg
File:Wolfstock1.jpg
File:Mug-holder.jpg
File:2013-10-21 20.10.06.jpg
File:Indy jigster.png
</gallery>

= Using the Laser Cutter =

The laser cutter is a great way to easily produce accurate and complex 2D forms in various materials, and can be designed for with limited experience in various drawing or CAD applications. At the same time, it is an expensive tool with real risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. '''You must only use the laser cutter if you have been trained, and if you are ever in any doubt about something, please ask for assistance.'''

== Owners ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the laser cutter, organising maintenance, responding to technical issues and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the Laser Cutter are:

* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]
* [[User:DianaProbst|Diana Probst]]

== Trainers ==

The Trainers are those who have volunteered to teach others to use the laser cutter and to promote good working practice. The current Trainers for the Laser Cutter are:

* Brian Starkey
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]
* [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]
* Katy Marshall

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the laser cutter, please use the forum page:
* [http://makespace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=45 Laser Cutter Log]

For the old mailing list thread see here:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/Tmce2iKVzD8/discussion Log : Laser Cutter]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the laser cutter and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Laser Cutter Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training|Laser Cutter Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

The laser cutter is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the laser cutter are:
* '''ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE LASER CUTTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''
* '''KNOW WHAT TO DO IF A FIRE BREAKS OUT'''
* '''NEVER CUT MATERIALS THAT YOU DON'T KNOW ARE SAFE'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''FIRE (under normal operation)''' - Cutting at the wrong speed or the wrong power can result in the material igniting
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur
* Small flashes of flame that don't hang around for a fraction of a second are acceptable, but any more is rare and not acceptable
* If a fire does take, this is the process you should follow (from minor to major):
** Press "pause" (the same button you started the job with) - This will turn the laser off so no more heat enters, and assuming the flame goes out, you can press "start" for the job to continue where it left off
** Open the lid - With the job paused, you can open the lid to blow out the flame. Again, it is possible to re-close the lid and continue where you left off
** Move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics; alternatively send the laser to home/datum), and smother with a spare sheet of material or blow out
** Use the workshop CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at

'''FIRE (abnormal operation)''' - If the head gets stuck or something else goes wrong, ignition could happen much more suddenly or intensely
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur
* If the head gets trapped (e.g. tomb-stoning of a piece, mechanical failure) or any other problem occurs that causes or could cause fire, this is the process you should follow:
** Hit the emergency stop
** Open the lid and move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics)
** Blow out, smother with a spare sheet of material, or use the CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame as appropriate
* Ensure a Maintainer looks at the machine before it is brought back in to action if it is not obvious what went wrong and all is ok
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at

'''FUMES''' - The laser cutting process will release different smoke and fumes depending on the material.
* Never cut PVC or a material you are not sure is safe. When PVC is heated it releases chlorine gas, this mixes with the moisture in the air and the result is hydrochloric acid which is toxic to humans and corrosive to machines.
* Ensure the filter is on and the cutter lid stays closed for a while after a job to allow the fumes to clear.
* If you are feeling strange, think the fume build up is too much, or for any other reason you are unsure, stop the job.

'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the cutter can be moved by the front panel menu or programs in the machines memory.
* Be careful when working inside the cutting area or with the lid open not to trap hands, hair, clothing or anything else.
* Always check the machine for unexpected items that may have fallen in before closing the lid.
* Do not attempt to climb into the machine!

'''LASER BURNS/LIGHT''' - A 60W laser can do real damage.
* The laser should be safe within the confines of the machine, and cut-off automatically when the lid is open (although this should not be relied upon). The top window is safe to look through during a job, but do not attempt to interfere with these windows or the laser or in any way invent some way to look at the laser.
* Do not tamper with the laser cutter, or any interlocks. All side panels of the laser should always be closed and locked whilst the machine is plugged in.
* Do not put metal in the laser cutter.

== Can I cut it? ==

If it's not on this list, the answer is "NO YOU CAN'T CUT IT AT MAKESPACE". Even if other people say it's ok. Bear in mind that we can't ventilate externally like other people can.

If it's something that isn't covered here, do ask on the forums and we'll look into it :)

*Woody things
** Wood: yes! (be careful of fire)
** Plywood: yes if it is "laser ply". Normal plywood has non-laser compatible glue
** MDF: no. Clogs up our filters and smells bad.
** LaserMDF: no. It produces perhaps 50% the gunk of MDF but still too much.
** Cork: yes, but it with a badly charred edge, and won't cut very deeply --- try cutting from the back of your sheet and using the cut to guide a craft knife / scalpel to make a neat cut through to the front.

*Plasticy things
** Acrylic / Perspex: yes!
** PVC/Vinyl: absolutely not. Produces chlorine.
** Silicone: we tried it with very limited success. A mm or two perhaps, anything else chars and doesn't cut.
** White Delrin/Acetal: yes with great care. Make sure filters running well. Don't open lid too quickly. Check for fumes and fire.
** Black Delrin/Acetal: no. contains carbon black which can be toxic.
** Teflon: no (it is toxic)
** Nylon: no (consult an owner)
** Polythene/polyethylene: no (consult an owner)
** Lexan/Polycarbonate: no (consult an owner)
** Polypropylene: yes just. You must clean the bed. It will cut up to about 2mm. It's not a great quality cut, but just about doable. Fire risk.
** GPPS / Polystyrene / HIPS in thin solid sheet form: maybe. ask owner to help. NO FOAM (it's highly flammable)

*Papery things
** Card/Paper: yes! (be careful of fire)
** Tissue: yes if super super really careful (be REALLY careful of fire, have emergency procedure in place before you start)

*Metally things
** Metal of any thickness doesn't cut. The surface can be engraved with a paint application. LMM6000 Surmark/Thermark has been tested and is suggested for use, but expensive. The owners suggest a speed of 800 and maximum power.

*Exotics
** Fibre glass: no (unknown resin, glass particles)
** Carbon Fibre: no
** Slate: engravable for good effect

Good list of info here: http://inventionstudio.gatech.edu/wiki/Laser_cutter (page disappeared, some time before 2016-12-12)

Very detailed cutting properties here: http://microfluidics.cnsi.ucsb.edu/tools/Trotec_laser_cutter/Synrad%20LaserProcessingGuide_Plastics.pdf

== Instructions ==

To use the laser cutter, you must have been trained and have had your name added to the trained user list; these instructions are not a substitute for this training. See the training section to understand how you can become qualified to use the laser cutter.

Although not a requirement, it is recommended someone else trained is also present when using the laser cutter. Having two pairs of eyes helps avoid forgotten steps, allows for double checking, clarifications and discussions, and ensures a greater pool of experience is both present and being built up as the laser is used.

'''Power Up'''

Give the machine a quick visual check. Make sure that there is nothing left on the bed, the water reservoir of the chiller looks normal, and that the equipment has no obvious damage or signs of being out-of-action. If the bed looks like it has residue on it, give it a wipe with IPA and a cloth.

Turn on primary switch on the trunking marked 'Laser'. The air filter system to the right of the laser cutter should start as should the air pump and the chiller. It should power up, make a decent amount of noise, and the lights should indicate the filter is in good condition (i.e. no need for replacement).

Make sure the lid is closed. Turn on the laser using the key on the right hand side. The inspection lamp should come on, a satisfying hum start up, and the cutter go into doing its self-checks.

Before doing any job, the laser should be left to warm up for 4-5 mins. While the machine warms up, power on the adjacent PC and start the LaserCut application from the desktop. During this time the water temperature shown on the chiller should drop from ambient temperature to the usual setting of 18C.

'''LaserCut 5.3 tips'''
If you're stuck in "draw a box" mode, etc you can right click and hit "pick" to get your pointer back

'''Load your Design'''

The PC software has an import facility ('''file > import''') which seems to be happy taking AutoCAD 2004 DXF files and other formats. The workspace of the laser bed is represented as the workarea in the LaserCut software. If the import doesn't do what you want size-wise, you can select the whole image and then use the 'size' command from the drop down menu to set the dimension you want. Clicking on the three dots ... symbol will adjust the other axis in the same proportion (keeping the aspect ratio fixed). Selecting the 'centre on bed' option will locate your imported drawing on the centre of the machine's cutting bed.

'''Prep'''

Select all (mouse-drag around all, or ctrl-a) and Tools -> Unite Lines. You always want to do this. Without it, many things won't work (will take longer, you'll get gaps, it won't do inner-before-outer, etching areas won't work, etc).

Make sure all your design fits within the bed. Even in immediate (relative) mode, you still need to do this.

'''Assign Settings to Colours'''

Each part of your drawing that is assigned a different colour can have a different cut action assigned. Each colour will appear on the menu on the right hand side of the screen with numbers related to power and speed of the laser which will be used for the colour.

The main options are to Cut (line) or Engrave (raster fill). A marking on the material is a Cut. For each material and cutting depth required, a corresponding speed and power must be entered. The handbook provided with the machine gives suggested values for various materials but these should be considered as a starting point for a test. See the '''Power and Speed Settings''' section for our guidelines and experiences for these settings.

Parts are cut "inside out" within a colour, so if you have a hole cutout in a small piece you don't need to give this a separate colour.

'''Download to the Cutter'''

Your drawing will feature a blue dot which represents the starting point of the laser; this is by default on the top right corner (can be changed in the menu). In general, you will want to use "immediate" mode, which means this point represents wherever the laser is positioned when you start the job. You can also run the job in absolute mode by unchecking the box, making the job use absolute positioning on the workspace.

To download, select Download and Download Current; the download option will by default call the file on the laser cutter 'LASER'.

'''Set the Focus'''

Before each job, the focus needs to be checked and set by adjusting the height of the bed, and thus the work piece, from the lens. The critical dimension here is 41mm and several gauges made of perspex will be left around the machine. This gauge needs to be a fit between the top surface of the material you intend to cut and the white plastic 'flap' on the lens piece. The height of the table is adjusted using the UP and DOWN buttons. Failure to set the distance correctly will result in an out of focus laser and much bigger (but lower powered) cut line. Always ensure there is clearance between the material and laser head before the head moves.

'''Aligning and Testing the Job'''

The cutter's menu will show the most recent downloaded file highlighted. Pressing the 'test' button will make the head travel along the square maximum extends of the cuts. This shows you that you have the material in the right place, and you have enough of it! You can do this repeatedly, moving the work piece by hand or the laser head using the arrow keys (after hitting ESC), until you are confident you have things where you want them.

'''Cut the Job'''

When happy with the location of the material, close the lid and press 'start' to start the cutter. Watch the head and at least at first be prepared to press the 'stop' button immediately if you find you are burning massive holes in your work piece! This goes back to doing some tests on a sample of your material and making sure you are happy with the cut speeds and power you have selected. You should stay near the cutter at all times and be prepared to pause it or stop it in the event of fire.

<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE CUTTER UNATTENDED'''</span>

'''Finishing'''

The end of the job is signified by a beep. Waiting a few moments for the exhaust pump to clear any remaining smoke is a good idea, especially with wood, and will limit the build up of smells in the rest of the workshop. Remove your work piece, ensuring that all parts are cleared from the bed of the machine.

'''Power Down'''

The cutter is turned off using the key switch, then the air filtering system with the green rocker switch. Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe state for the next user.

'''Clean the bed of debris using the soft brush, then wipe down the bed using IPA and a cloth.'''

If you have been cutting particularly 'dirty' materials, most notable MDF and Ply which leave a sticky residue then you will need to use the course side of one of the oven pads and lots of 'elbow grease'. Residue on the bed can impact the next persons' job so please make the effort to clean up and leave the cutter as you would wish to find it.

Go away excited by what you can make and come back with lots more drawings!

== Power and Speed Settings ==

In due time we will try to build up a large sample stock of materials and record the values which work best. Here are the sample material tests we have so far:

<gallery>
File:Laser-schmoo-3mm-acrylic.JPG|3mm Acrylic
File:Laser-schmoo-10mm-acrylic.JPG|10mm Acrylic
File:Laser-schmoo-9mm-mdf.JPG|9mm MDF (note: do not cut MDF - see above!)
</gallery>

Settings to get you started:
*3mm Acrylic: Speed 12, Power 100, Corner power 100
*5mm Acrylic: Speed 6, Power 100, Corner power 100
*Acrylic shallow cut: Speed 30, power 50, corner power 50
*Etching acrylic: Speed 400, Power 50, Spacing 0.05

To make your own material test, a test grid can be downloaded here: [[Media:Test grid.zip]]

*3mm Delrin: Speed 10, Power 100, Corner power 100
*5mm Delrin: Speed 4, Power 100, Corner power 100
*6mm Delrin: speed 3, Power 100, Corner power 100

== Tips & Tricks ==

* If the laser cutter's user interface does not seem to respond/do what you want, hit "ESC" to return to 'normal mode'.
* The opaque white acrylic needs slightly stronger settings for surface cuts as they are not as visible as in the transparent acrylic (i.e., for similar effect you need a deeper cut). Otherwise seems to cut equivalently to transparent acrylics.
* If you want a tight fit of pieces or very accurate sizing, keep in mind that the laser beam has a width of just over 0.1 mm (maybe 0.11 or 0.12 mm). So all exterior cut lines should be offset by 0.05 mm; you can do this very easily in the LaserCutter Software with the "Offset" tool (units are in mm, so enter '0.05' and select 'Outer').
* The DXF file format stores values only (not values and units). The internal units in the LaserCutter are in mm. If you set your document's units to mm in the exporting CAD system it should work fine, but generally it is a good idea to have a piece of geometry of known length, e.g. a line 100mm long, or a box of known size around your design. This makes adjusting the scaling a lot easier.
* If you want to export a DXF from Inkscape (which is a great, free vector drawing package), then make sure you do "Object to path" from the Path menu for the whole object and then during the export stage, untick both options for type of export. Choose mm as your unit.
* There's now a page to help with Inkscape and our laser at [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Inkscape]]
* If the jog buttons (arrow keys moving the laser head around) are only moving the head in small single steps rather than moving it continuously, make sure that the jog step size is set to 0.0mm in the Jog Settings section of the menu.

=== Material Usage ===
You want to use as little material as possible to save money, we want you to use as little material as possible to reduce re-stocking burden and wastage.
There's a neat tool you can use for packing SVG files into small spaces, find it here: http://svgnest.com/

== Fixing up a job that went wrong ==

If you messed up a job and, for example, some cut lines weren't cut, you might try to run the job again after recolouring all of the lines except the ones that didn't cut. You can then deselect those lines for output in the Cut/Engrave window on the top right of the Lasercut Interface, and this will keep your positioning.

If your head has moved, you can try setting some lines to power 1, which should not cut anything, but allows you to see where the head is travelling.

== Fixing strange issues ==

''Jaws has a FAQ on the desktop of her PC, with more useful hints, tricks, and solutions.''

* Etching doesn't work
** Lines are not closed. LaserCut usually warns you about this. Ctrl-a to select all, then Tools->Unite Lines (0.001 should be fine).
** Two copies on top of each other. Copies on top of each other "cancel out" any etching. Delete one copy.
** Test with Menu->Laser->Simulate

* LaserCut will not download to the laser cutter
** Check laser cutter isn't in a paused state
** Restart LaserCut on the PC. (We've not had any usb issues nor needed to restart the laser since upgrading the PC summer 2014).

* Laser cuts things out 2+ times
** Check you don't have two copies loaded on top of each other
** Check it's not set to cut multiple times in LaserCut (this setting is right of the Cut/Engrave/Speed/Power settings)
** Check the laser front panel says "001" at the bottom. If not, press right arrow until the number is highlighted, then down to adjust back to 1, then press return.

* Laser will only cut at the top right of the bed
** Download again with Immediate Mode ticked
** On laser panel, press return (I think?) then right twice (should select the bottom left option), then press return (I think).

*You Hit Emergency stop
** E-M button needs twisting to re-activate
** If that fails - check the circuit breaker inside. From the back of the machine, you want to open the lower flap on the left side, which should be unlocked. Near to the back, there is a breaker board. Flip the flippy bit.

== Material Stock ==
For the stock we hold, please see the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Stock|Laser cutter stock]] page.

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the Laser Cutter is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Laser Cutter Users''')
* Clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth or Swarfega wipes
* Clean any debris off laser bed and surround using soft brush

Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)
* Clean the laser lens with IPA and cotton buds
* Oil the 3 runners with 3-in-one light oil
* Thoroughly clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth
* Check the water level in the cooling tank
* Clean and remove debris from the machine base and catchment drawer

Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)
* Check the water is clean in the cooling tank (i.e. no contamination/organic build up)
* Check filter unit for filter renewal
* Oil the 4 rise and fall lead screws with 3-in-one light oil
* Check mirrors and clean with a disposable sachet lens cleaner cloth (only if needed, mirror coatings are delicate)
* Work through mirror alignment procedure to check alignment of mirrors

== Maintenance Log ==

''For full log, see laser cutter wall sheet''

For specific instructions and owner hints and tips see [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Owner_Tips|Owner Hints and Tricks]].

'''Filter Changes'''
* Jaws: 10 Feb to 22 June 2016, slightly under 5 months, and falling
* Betsy: Freshest data currently in filter unit, gave up on 24th of June

'''Reactive Maintenance'''
* 15th Jan 2013, Simon Ford: Laser cutter not powering up, with switching on via key gives no activity whatsoever. No recollection of it cutting out during a job (Alexis), so assume it just stopped turning on at some point. Filter box and power sockets confirmed OK. Diagnosis: RCD in right back panel of Laser reset to off, no obvious reason why. Switching back on brought everything back to life OK.
* 22nd, Simon Ford; 29th, Nicholas - same again.

* Apr 2014, Mat Cook and Diana Probst: after previous changing of chiller water (Roger et al) the pump was complaining of lack of flow. Changed water and filtered, removed small blockage from rubber hose on laser tube.

* 16 Apr 2014, Toby and Diana: changed laser tube, refilled chiller. Laser cutter fully working.

* 25 Oct 2014, Mat and Diana mended lid spring brace. Cutter working fully.

'''Regular Maintenance'''
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)

2013
* January 7, Full, Chris @ HPCLaser'''
* January 14, Basic, Simon Ford
* January 21, Full, Simon Ford (running better than new :)'''
* ...various maintenance events happened...
* April 5th, Full, Simon Ford
* July 1st, Full, David Barham (realigned mirrors)
* July 15th, installed chiller

2014
* 16 Apr 2014, mirror alignment and optics checked after re-installation of tube. All fine. Toby and Diana.
* 19 May 2014, mirrors cleaned, earthing wire on lid tightened. Diana (and Mat's screwdriver)
* 21 May 2014, cleaned lens with Mat Cook. Diana
* 02 Jun 2014, removed and cleaned laser bed
* 14 Sep 2014, cleaned lens and mirrors, realigned. Diana and Brian Starkey

* 30 Jun 2014 Fitted microswitches in series with the magnetic "lid closed" detector.
* ??? 2014 "Jaws" Second laser cutter acquired
* ??? 2014 Fitted microswitch to Jaws

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* 3-in-one light oil
* Cotton Buds
* Lens cleaner sachets
* Soft paint/cleaning brush
* Thermometer for water tank
* Hand held CO2 extinguisher

= Further Information =

* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser Product Page]
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=5&chapter=2 HPCLaser Technical Info]
* [http://www.laserscript.co.uk/phpBB3/ Laserscript Forum]

LaserCut 5.3
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/35.html Homepage]
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/LaserCut5.3%20Manual%20V1.6.pdf Manual]

[[BitmapLaserEngraving]]

== Installation ==

<gallery>
File:Laser_-_van.JPG
File:Makespace-laser-install-02.JPG
File:Laser_-_building_2.JPG
File:Laser_-_building.JPG
</gallery>

== Purchase ==

Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£6865.00+vat = £8238.00)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser engraving and cutting machine, 600mm by 900mm 60W] (£5250.00+vat)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34 Laser Fume Filter] (£1250.00+vat)
* Delivery (£190+vat)
* Installation/Training (£175+vat)

== Repairs ==

We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:
* The laser tube (guess every 6-12 months)
* The filter (guess every 3-6 months)
* The optics (guess every 6-12 months)

Maintenance and Spares:
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3 60 watt C02 laser tube] (£275.00+vat)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=12 50 mm Focus Meniscus Lens] (£75.00+vat)
* Estimate for Call Out (£200.00)

Equipment/Laser Cutter

2018-05-18T19:29:43Z

JWoolf: /* Trainers */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Laser Cutter

[[File:Makespace-laser-cutter.JPG|thumb|460px|right|Our LS6090 PRO Laser Cutter]]

= Summary =

We have two LS 6090 PRO Laser Cutters. Each has a working area of 900mm by 600mm, and is powered by a 60w CO2 Water Cooled Laser Tube that can engrave and cut through materials such as wood, plastic, card, leather, fabrics, up to about 10-15mm thick (note, it can not cut metal). The laser cut is approximately 0.15mm wide, and a job can take a few seconds through to tens of minutes depending on material thickness and design complexity.

We have dedicated PCs running LaserCut 5.3 software to import, prepare and download jobs to the Laser Cutter. It can import various formats, with DXF being the most commonly used, so various software packages can be used to create your designs.

Here are some examples of laser jobs we've run (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:Laser-cut-focus-tool.JPG
File:Laser-cut-front-panels.JPG
File:Laser-cut-lizards.JPG
File:Laser-cut-m-and-s.JPG
File:Laser-cut-model-building.JPG
File:Laser-cut-ply-m.JPG
File:Laser_output_-_makespace_arrow.JPG
File:Laser_box.jpg
File:Croc-small.jpg
File:LaserCutter_Jobs_1.jpg
File:LaserCutterGallery_20130328.jpg
File:LasercutSettlers.jpg
File:Wolfstock1.jpg
File:Mug-holder.jpg
File:2013-10-21 20.10.06.jpg
File:Indy jigster.png
</gallery>

= Using the Laser Cutter =

The laser cutter is a great way to easily produce accurate and complex 2D forms in various materials, and can be designed for with limited experience in various drawing or CAD applications. At the same time, it is an expensive tool with real risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. '''You must only use the laser cutter if you have been trained, and if you are ever in any doubt about something, please ask for assistance.'''

== Owners ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the laser cutter, organising maintenance, responding to technical issues and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the Laser Cutter are:

* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]
* [[User:DianaProbst|Diana Probst]]
* Owners who are a little less current, but may still be able to help:
** [[User:Simon|Simon Ford]]
** [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]
** [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]

== Trainers ==

The Trainers are those who have volunteered to teach others to use the laser cutter and to promote good working practice. The current Trainers for the Laser Cutter are:

* Brian Starkey
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]
* [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]
* Katy Marshall

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the laser cutter, please use the forum page:
* [http://makespace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=45 Laser Cutter Log]

For the old mailing list thread see here:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/Tmce2iKVzD8/discussion Log : Laser Cutter]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the laser cutter and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Laser Cutter Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training|Laser Cutter Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

The laser cutter is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the laser cutter are:
* '''ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE LASER CUTTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''
* '''KNOW WHAT TO DO IF A FIRE BREAKS OUT'''
* '''NEVER CUT MATERIALS THAT YOU DON'T KNOW ARE SAFE'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''FIRE (under normal operation)''' - Cutting at the wrong speed or the wrong power can result in the material igniting
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur
* Small flashes of flame that don't hang around for a fraction of a second are acceptable, but any more is rare and not acceptable
* If a fire does take, this is the process you should follow (from minor to major):
** Press "pause" (the same button you started the job with) - This will turn the laser off so no more heat enters, and assuming the flame goes out, you can press "start" for the job to continue where it left off
** Open the lid - With the job paused, you can open the lid to blow out the flame. Again, it is possible to re-close the lid and continue where you left off
** Move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics; alternatively send the laser to home/datum), and smother with a spare sheet of material or blow out
** Use the workshop CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at

'''FIRE (abnormal operation)''' - If the head gets stuck or something else goes wrong, ignition could happen much more suddenly or intensely
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur
* If the head gets trapped (e.g. tomb-stoning of a piece, mechanical failure) or any other problem occurs that causes or could cause fire, this is the process you should follow:
** Hit the emergency stop
** Open the lid and move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics)
** Blow out, smother with a spare sheet of material, or use the CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame as appropriate
* Ensure a Maintainer looks at the machine before it is brought back in to action if it is not obvious what went wrong and all is ok
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at

'''FUMES''' - The laser cutting process will release different smoke and fumes depending on the material.
* Never cut PVC or a material you are not sure is safe. When PVC is heated it releases chlorine gas, this mixes with the moisture in the air and the result is hydrochloric acid which is toxic to humans and corrosive to machines.
* Ensure the filter is on and the cutter lid stays closed for a while after a job to allow the fumes to clear.
* If you are feeling strange, think the fume build up is too much, or for any other reason you are unsure, stop the job.

'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the cutter can be moved by the front panel menu or programs in the machines memory.
* Be careful when working inside the cutting area or with the lid open not to trap hands, hair, clothing or anything else.
* Always check the machine for unexpected items that may have fallen in before closing the lid.
* Do not attempt to climb into the machine!

'''LASER BURNS/LIGHT''' - A 60W laser can do real damage.
* The laser should be safe within the confines of the machine, and cut-off automatically when the lid is open (although this should not be relied upon). The top window is safe to look through during a job, but do not attempt to interfere with these windows or the laser or in any way invent some way to look at the laser.
* Do not tamper with the laser cutter, or any interlocks. All side panels of the laser should always be closed and locked whilst the machine is plugged in.
* Do not put metal in the laser cutter.

== Can I cut it? ==

If it's not on this list, the answer is "NO YOU CAN'T CUT IT AT MAKESPACE". Even if other people say it's ok. Bear in mind that we can't ventilate externally like other people can.

If it's something that isn't covered here, do ask on the forums and we'll look into it :)

*Woody things
** Wood: yes! (be careful of fire)
** Plywood: yes if it is "laser ply". Normal plywood has non-laser compatible glue
** MDF: no. Clogs up our filters and smells bad.
** LaserMDF: no. It produces perhaps 50% the gunk of MDF but still too much.
** Cork: yes, but it with a badly charred edge, and won't cut very deeply --- try cutting from the back of your sheet and using the cut to guide a craft knife / scalpel to make a neat cut through to the front.

*Plasticy things
** Acrylic / Perspex: yes!
** PVC/Vinyl: absolutely not. Produces chlorine.
** Silicone: we tried it with very limited success. A mm or two perhaps, anything else chars and doesn't cut.
** White Delrin/Acetal: yes with great care. Make sure filters running well. Don't open lid too quickly. Check for fumes and fire.
** Black Delrin/Acetal: no. contains carbon black which can be toxic.
** Teflon: no (it is toxic)
** Nylon: no (consult an owner)
** Polythene/polyethylene: no (consult an owner)
** Lexan/Polycarbonate: no (consult an owner)
** Polypropylene: yes just. You must clean the bed. It will cut up to about 2mm. It's not a great quality cut, but just about doable. Fire risk.
** GPPS / Polystyrene / HIPS in thin solid sheet form: maybe. ask owner to help. NO FOAM (it's highly flammable)

*Papery things
** Card/Paper: yes! (be careful of fire)
** Tissue: yes if super super really careful (be REALLY careful of fire, have emergency procedure in place before you start)

*Metally things
** Metal of any thickness doesn't cut. The surface can be engraved with a paint application. LMM6000 Surmark/Thermark has been tested and is suggested for use, but expensive. The owners suggest a speed of 800 and maximum power.

*Exotics
** Fibre glass: no (unknown resin, glass particles)
** Carbon Fibre: no
** Slate: engravable for good effect

Good list of info here: http://inventionstudio.gatech.edu/wiki/Laser_cutter (page disappeared, some time before 2016-12-12)

Very detailed cutting properties here: http://microfluidics.cnsi.ucsb.edu/tools/Trotec_laser_cutter/Synrad%20LaserProcessingGuide_Plastics.pdf

== Instructions ==

To use the laser cutter, you must have been trained and have had your name added to the trained user list; these instructions are not a substitute for this training. See the training section to understand how you can become qualified to use the laser cutter.

Although not a requirement, it is recommended someone else trained is also present when using the laser cutter. Having two pairs of eyes helps avoid forgotten steps, allows for double checking, clarifications and discussions, and ensures a greater pool of experience is both present and being built up as the laser is used.

'''Power Up'''

Give the machine a quick visual check. Make sure that there is nothing left on the bed, the water reservoir of the chiller looks normal, and that the equipment has no obvious damage or signs of being out-of-action. If the bed looks like it has residue on it, give it a wipe with IPA and a cloth.

Turn on primary switch on the trunking marked 'Laser'. The air filter system to the right of the laser cutter should start as should the air pump and the chiller. It should power up, make a decent amount of noise, and the lights should indicate the filter is in good condition (i.e. no need for replacement).

Make sure the lid is closed. Turn on the laser using the key on the right hand side. The inspection lamp should come on, a satisfying hum start up, and the cutter go into doing its self-checks.

Before doing any job, the laser should be left to warm up for 4-5 mins. While the machine warms up, power on the adjacent PC and start the LaserCut application from the desktop. During this time the water temperature shown on the chiller should drop from ambient temperature to the usual setting of 18C.

'''LaserCut 5.3 tips'''
If you're stuck in "draw a box" mode, etc you can right click and hit "pick" to get your pointer back

'''Load your Design'''

The PC software has an import facility ('''file > import''') which seems to be happy taking AutoCAD 2004 DXF files and other formats. The workspace of the laser bed is represented as the workarea in the LaserCut software. If the import doesn't do what you want size-wise, you can select the whole image and then use the 'size' command from the drop down menu to set the dimension you want. Clicking on the three dots ... symbol will adjust the other axis in the same proportion (keeping the aspect ratio fixed). Selecting the 'centre on bed' option will locate your imported drawing on the centre of the machine's cutting bed.

'''Prep'''

Select all (mouse-drag around all, or ctrl-a) and Tools -> Unite Lines. You always want to do this. Without it, many things won't work (will take longer, you'll get gaps, it won't do inner-before-outer, etching areas won't work, etc).

Make sure all your design fits within the bed. Even in immediate (relative) mode, you still need to do this.

'''Assign Settings to Colours'''

Each part of your drawing that is assigned a different colour can have a different cut action assigned. Each colour will appear on the menu on the right hand side of the screen with numbers related to power and speed of the laser which will be used for the colour.

The main options are to Cut (line) or Engrave (raster fill). A marking on the material is a Cut. For each material and cutting depth required, a corresponding speed and power must be entered. The handbook provided with the machine gives suggested values for various materials but these should be considered as a starting point for a test. See the '''Power and Speed Settings''' section for our guidelines and experiences for these settings.

Parts are cut "inside out" within a colour, so if you have a hole cutout in a small piece you don't need to give this a separate colour.

'''Download to the Cutter'''

Your drawing will feature a blue dot which represents the starting point of the laser; this is by default on the top right corner (can be changed in the menu). In general, you will want to use "immediate" mode, which means this point represents wherever the laser is positioned when you start the job. You can also run the job in absolute mode by unchecking the box, making the job use absolute positioning on the workspace.

To download, select Download and Download Current; the download option will by default call the file on the laser cutter 'LASER'.

'''Set the Focus'''

Before each job, the focus needs to be checked and set by adjusting the height of the bed, and thus the work piece, from the lens. The critical dimension here is 41mm and several gauges made of perspex will be left around the machine. This gauge needs to be a fit between the top surface of the material you intend to cut and the white plastic 'flap' on the lens piece. The height of the table is adjusted using the UP and DOWN buttons. Failure to set the distance correctly will result in an out of focus laser and much bigger (but lower powered) cut line. Always ensure there is clearance between the material and laser head before the head moves.

'''Aligning and Testing the Job'''

The cutter's menu will show the most recent downloaded file highlighted. Pressing the 'test' button will make the head travel along the square maximum extends of the cuts. This shows you that you have the material in the right place, and you have enough of it! You can do this repeatedly, moving the work piece by hand or the laser head using the arrow keys (after hitting ESC), until you are confident you have things where you want them.

'''Cut the Job'''

When happy with the location of the material, close the lid and press 'start' to start the cutter. Watch the head and at least at first be prepared to press the 'stop' button immediately if you find you are burning massive holes in your work piece! This goes back to doing some tests on a sample of your material and making sure you are happy with the cut speeds and power you have selected. You should stay near the cutter at all times and be prepared to pause it or stop it in the event of fire.

<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE CUTTER UNATTENDED'''</span>

'''Finishing'''

The end of the job is signified by a beep. Waiting a few moments for the exhaust pump to clear any remaining smoke is a good idea, especially with wood, and will limit the build up of smells in the rest of the workshop. Remove your work piece, ensuring that all parts are cleared from the bed of the machine.

'''Power Down'''

The cutter is turned off using the key switch, then the air filtering system with the green rocker switch. Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe state for the next user.

'''Clean the bed of debris using the soft brush, then wipe down the bed using IPA and a cloth.'''

If you have been cutting particularly 'dirty' materials, most notable MDF and Ply which leave a sticky residue then you will need to use the course side of one of the oven pads and lots of 'elbow grease'. Residue on the bed can impact the next persons' job so please make the effort to clean up and leave the cutter as you would wish to find it.

Go away excited by what you can make and come back with lots more drawings!

== Power and Speed Settings ==

In due time we will try to build up a large sample stock of materials and record the values which work best. Here are the sample material tests we have so far:

<gallery>
File:Laser-schmoo-3mm-acrylic.JPG|3mm Acrylic
File:Laser-schmoo-10mm-acrylic.JPG|10mm Acrylic
File:Laser-schmoo-9mm-mdf.JPG|9mm MDF (note: do not cut MDF - see above!)
</gallery>

Settings to get you started:
*3mm Acrylic: Speed 12, Power 100, Corner power 100
*5mm Acrylic: Speed 6, Power 100, Corner power 100
*Acrylic shallow cut: Speed 30, power 50, corner power 50
*Etching acrylic: Speed 400, Power 50, Spacing 0.05

To make your own material test, a test grid can be downloaded here: [[Media:Test grid.zip]]

*3mm Delrin: Speed 10, Power 100, Corner power 100
*5mm Delrin: Speed 4, Power 100, Corner power 100
*6mm Delrin: speed 3, Power 100, Corner power 100

== Tips & Tricks ==

* If the laser cutter's user interface does not seem to respond/do what you want, hit "ESC" to return to 'normal mode'.
* The opaque white acrylic needs slightly stronger settings for surface cuts as they are not as visible as in the transparent acrylic (i.e., for similar effect you need a deeper cut). Otherwise seems to cut equivalently to transparent acrylics.
* If you want a tight fit of pieces or very accurate sizing, keep in mind that the laser beam has a width of just over 0.1 mm (maybe 0.11 or 0.12 mm). So all exterior cut lines should be offset by 0.05 mm; you can do this very easily in the LaserCutter Software with the "Offset" tool (units are in mm, so enter '0.05' and select 'Outer').
* The DXF file format stores values only (not values and units). The internal units in the LaserCutter are in mm. If you set your document's units to mm in the exporting CAD system it should work fine, but generally it is a good idea to have a piece of geometry of known length, e.g. a line 100mm long, or a box of known size around your design. This makes adjusting the scaling a lot easier.
* If you want to export a DXF from Inkscape (which is a great, free vector drawing package), then make sure you do "Object to path" from the Path menu for the whole object and then during the export stage, untick both options for type of export. Choose mm as your unit.
* There's now a page to help with Inkscape and our laser at [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Inkscape]]
* If the jog buttons (arrow keys moving the laser head around) are only moving the head in small single steps rather than moving it continuously, make sure that the jog step size is set to 0.0mm in the Jog Settings section of the menu.

=== Material Usage ===
You want to use as little material as possible to save money, we want you to use as little material as possible to reduce re-stocking burden and wastage.
There's a neat tool you can use for packing SVG files into small spaces, find it here: http://svgnest.com/

== Fixing up a job that went wrong ==

If you messed up a job and, for example, some cut lines weren't cut, you might try to run the job again after recolouring all of the lines except the ones that didn't cut. You can then deselect those lines for output in the Cut/Engrave window on the top right of the Lasercut Interface, and this will keep your positioning.

If your head has moved, you can try setting some lines to power 1, which should not cut anything, but allows you to see where the head is travelling.

== Fixing strange issues ==

''Jaws has a FAQ on the desktop of her PC, with more useful hints, tricks, and solutions.''

* Etching doesn't work
** Lines are not closed. LaserCut usually warns you about this. Ctrl-a to select all, then Tools->Unite Lines (0.001 should be fine).
** Two copies on top of each other. Copies on top of each other "cancel out" any etching. Delete one copy.
** Test with Menu->Laser->Simulate

* LaserCut will not download to the laser cutter
** Check laser cutter isn't in a paused state
** Restart LaserCut on the PC. (We've not had any usb issues nor needed to restart the laser since upgrading the PC summer 2014).

* Laser cuts things out 2+ times
** Check you don't have two copies loaded on top of each other
** Check it's not set to cut multiple times in LaserCut (this setting is right of the Cut/Engrave/Speed/Power settings)
** Check the laser front panel says "001" at the bottom. If not, press right arrow until the number is highlighted, then down to adjust back to 1, then press return.

* Laser will only cut at the top right of the bed
** Download again with Immediate Mode ticked
** On laser panel, press return (I think?) then right twice (should select the bottom left option), then press return (I think).

*You Hit Emergency stop
** E-M button needs twisting to re-activate
** If that fails - check the circuit breaker inside. From the back of the machine, you want to open the lower flap on the left side, which should be unlocked. Near to the back, there is a breaker board. Flip the flippy bit.

== Material Stock ==
For the stock we hold, please see the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Stock|Laser cutter stock]] page.

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the Laser Cutter is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Laser Cutter Users''')
* Clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth or Swarfega wipes
* Clean any debris off laser bed and surround using soft brush

Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)
* Clean the laser lens with IPA and cotton buds
* Oil the 3 runners with 3-in-one light oil
* Thoroughly clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth
* Check the water level in the cooling tank
* Clean and remove debris from the machine base and catchment drawer

Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)
* Check the water is clean in the cooling tank (i.e. no contamination/organic build up)
* Check filter unit for filter renewal
* Oil the 4 rise and fall lead screws with 3-in-one light oil
* Check mirrors and clean with a disposable sachet lens cleaner cloth (only if needed, mirror coatings are delicate)
* Work through mirror alignment procedure to check alignment of mirrors

== Maintenance Log ==

''For full log, see laser cutter wall sheet''

For specific instructions and owner hints and tips see [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Owner_Tips|Owner Hints and Tricks]].

'''Filter Changes'''
* Jaws: 10 Feb to 22 June 2016, slightly under 5 months, and falling
* Betsy: Freshest data currently in filter unit, gave up on 24th of June

'''Reactive Maintenance'''
* 15th Jan 2013, Simon Ford: Laser cutter not powering up, with switching on via key gives no activity whatsoever. No recollection of it cutting out during a job (Alexis), so assume it just stopped turning on at some point. Filter box and power sockets confirmed OK. Diagnosis: RCD in right back panel of Laser reset to off, no obvious reason why. Switching back on brought everything back to life OK.
* 22nd, Simon Ford; 29th, Nicholas - same again.

* Apr 2014, Mat Cook and Diana Probst: after previous changing of chiller water (Roger et al) the pump was complaining of lack of flow. Changed water and filtered, removed small blockage from rubber hose on laser tube.

* 16 Apr 2014, Toby and Diana: changed laser tube, refilled chiller. Laser cutter fully working.

* 25 Oct 2014, Mat and Diana mended lid spring brace. Cutter working fully.

'''Regular Maintenance'''
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)

2013
* January 7, Full, Chris @ HPCLaser'''
* January 14, Basic, Simon Ford
* January 21, Full, Simon Ford (running better than new :)'''
* ...various maintenance events happened...
* April 5th, Full, Simon Ford
* July 1st, Full, David Barham (realigned mirrors)
* July 15th, installed chiller

2014
* 16 Apr 2014, mirror alignment and optics checked after re-installation of tube. All fine. Toby and Diana.
* 19 May 2014, mirrors cleaned, earthing wire on lid tightened. Diana (and Mat's screwdriver)
* 21 May 2014, cleaned lens with Mat Cook. Diana
* 02 Jun 2014, removed and cleaned laser bed
* 14 Sep 2014, cleaned lens and mirrors, realigned. Diana and Brian Starkey

* 30 Jun 2014 Fitted microswitches in series with the magnetic "lid closed" detector.
* ??? 2014 "Jaws" Second laser cutter acquired
* ??? 2014 Fitted microswitch to Jaws

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* 3-in-one light oil
* Cotton Buds
* Lens cleaner sachets
* Soft paint/cleaning brush
* Thermometer for water tank
* Hand held CO2 extinguisher

= Further Information =

* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser Product Page]
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=5&chapter=2 HPCLaser Technical Info]
* [http://www.laserscript.co.uk/phpBB3/ Laserscript Forum]

LaserCut 5.3
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/35.html Homepage]
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/LaserCut5.3%20Manual%20V1.6.pdf Manual]

[[BitmapLaserEngraving]]

== Installation ==

<gallery>
File:Laser_-_van.JPG
File:Makespace-laser-install-02.JPG
File:Laser_-_building_2.JPG
File:Laser_-_building.JPG
</gallery>

== Purchase ==

Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£6865.00+vat = £8238.00)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser engraving and cutting machine, 600mm by 900mm 60W] (£5250.00+vat)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34 Laser Fume Filter] (£1250.00+vat)
* Delivery (£190+vat)
* Installation/Training (£175+vat)

== Repairs ==

We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:
* The laser tube (guess every 6-12 months)
* The filter (guess every 3-6 months)
* The optics (guess every 6-12 months)

Maintenance and Spares:
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3 60 watt C02 laser tube] (£275.00+vat)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=12 50 mm Focus Meniscus Lens] (£75.00+vat)
* Estimate for Call Out (£200.00)

Equipment/Glassworking

2018-05-18T19:25:49Z

JWoolf: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment]] / Glassworking

[[File:8633913103_92f52a697d_c.jpg|thumb|320px|right]]

= Glassworking - General =

== Summary ==

This is a kiln and hot torch to work with soft glass - fusing and forming rather than blowing. You can also use the kiln for metal clays.

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

== Owners ==

We are in the process of updating owners - if you'd like to get involved please email "glasskiln" at Makespace.

* Laura James

* Andy McDonald

* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]

== Booking ==

As and when the wiki is updated to support it, the calendar below will show when the kiln and torch are available for use. If you're trained on glass and need access to edit the calendar, contact the owners.

{{#widget:Google Calendar
|id=usjlc86svfvpqnch5u1ket92v0@group.calendar.google.com
|color=8C500B
|id=sk9fs9tmvt9fh91gl55mvvddhs@group.calendar.google.com
|color=875509
|title=Glassworking Torch and Kiln
}}

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE GLASS KILN AND TORCH IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the glass kiln and torch and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Owners. You can get training just on the kiln, or on kiln+torch. The training will give you the basics to use the kit safely and make basic items, and you'll want to explore more (online, in books, through trial and error or from others) to achieve beautiful things!

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training|Glassworking Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

'''[[Formal Risk Assessment: Glassworking]]'''

Glassworking involves both sharp, fragile raw materials and extreme heat. Most risks are obvious - sharp glass can cut you, and the hot torch and kiln can both burn. There are, however, a few non-obvious risks to be aware of:

# When working with the flame your glass will be glowing red hot or hotter, but very shortly after you put a rod down to work with something else the glass will cool to be visually indistinguishable from glass at room temperature. It may at this point still be hundreds of degrees centigrade! Do not pick anything up while someone is working at the torch without asking, you like your skin and want to keep it.
# Glass rods can stress-crack at the tip when heated. Point rods away from you and always wear eye protection - the glass won't travel far but you don't want it in your eyes.
# Some substances release toxic gases when heated to high temperatures
# For glass fusing, use glass that is designed for fusing. Please check the COE and compatibility of your glass.
# Please do not place flammable items near (<12 inches) the kiln. Please do not move the kiln closer to the walls.
# Wear '''dark grey safety glasses''' provided when looking into the kiln. Wear the '''blue safety glasses''' when working with the flame.
# Do not breathe in fine powders. Wear a dusk mask when mixing shelf primer, reapplying kiln shelf etc.
# Wear eye protection when cutting glass. Please clean surfaces afterwards with a damp paper towel. The tiny glass shards you get when you cut glass may be invisible to the eye but can be dangerous if it gets in your eyes.

Other risks will be covered during training - working with hot glass is perfectly safe as long as basic procedures are followed.

== Equipment ==

Our kiln is a Paragon SC2 kiln with an included bead door and window. This kiln includes a controller capable of multi-step programs with controlled rate heat up and cool down cycles. It has a maximum temperature of 1100 degrees centigrade, enough to fire some metal clays and work with most kinds of glass, but not enough to act as a metal furnace. There's an instruction booklet to use both in the box below the table.

In addition to the kiln we have a HotHead gas torch, along with the appropriate connection kit to run off bulk Propane gas rather than the normal MAPP cylinders (these burn slightly hotter, but are much more expensive as they're not available in larger quantities). The torch is mounted on a height and angle adjustable stand suitable for bead work when sitting on the low stool that should be lurking around the glassworking station.

For bead working we have a variety of mandrels, bead release that can be cooked in the flame and a wedge shaped graphite marver. Also a pot of vermiculite to slowly cool your beads so they won't break.

For art glass and strip-work we have a set of cutting tools along with a slump mould for making very small (9x9cm) glass bowls. Plus Bullseye GlasTac for sticking your pieces of glass together before you put them into the kiln. Please use only glue that is safe to heat to high temperatures - superglue, for example, should NOT be used as it releases cyanide gas (yikes!) when heated to high temperatures

It is important that these tools remain exclusively used for glass, please resist the temptation to use the cutters, pliers etc for other materials!

== Glass Stock ==

We have a selection of glass rod, sheet, stringer and frit.

The large pots of glass are bought as a random selection for about ten pounds per pot, they consist of offcuts of bullseye COE90 (coefficient of expansion, only important in as much as all glass in a particular piece should have the same number to prevent explosions!) in various thicknesses. Bullseye COE90 glass will tend to form 6mm thick sheets due to surface tension so stack your strip-work to that height.

In addition to this we have a small amount of specific colours of bullseye COE90 glass currently in clear 9x9cm sheets and larger plates of Makespace colours. We can buy at a discount from a couple of online suppliers even when ordering small quantities (a side effect of buying all the kiln and other hardware in one go!) so post to the list of you want anything in particular and we can order it.

For bead making we have a set of clear and a set of mixed coloured COE90 rods, along with tubes of frit and a selection of random stringer (1mm thick rod) glass for decoration. Prices for these are TBD, but will be printed on a sheet near the glassworking station when determined (something in the order of a pound per full rod, that would work out as around 20-40p per medium size bead, each of which would take about half an hour to make).

== Location ==

The glassworking kit is in the corner of the main workshop on the right as you come through the double doors. Work facing out into the main space when using the torch and try to keep your activities over the steel sheeting (not that we're likely to harm the concrete floor but it's easier to clean up!)

== Scheduling ==

Unlike many pieces of equipment in Makespace the kiln requires a considerable amount of uninterrupted time to run. We don't have a formal booking system in place, but we use a shared calendar to block out big jobs on the kiln especially. For example, if you're doing bead work you will be spending between half an hour and two hours (depending on how many you're making) using the hot torch, with beads being placed in the kiln at a holding temperature while the others are worked in the flame, then running an annealing cycle which will cool down under computer control for a couple of hours, then cooling to ambient before the kiln becomes available for other users. It should be possible to get two runs in a day, as long as the first is done in the morning, but no more than that.

The kiln is a model which should be possible to leave unattended once you have set the digital controller to run a specific program. Before firing make sure you sign post that the kiln is hot, that there is nothing flammable near the kiln and that there is about 12 inches gap between the kiln and the walls. Please check the firing schedule - don't assume it is set to any previous settings. If you are doing anything new/are unfamiliar with the kiln, please ensure that you can be in the space for the duration of its active firing cycle - it's fine to leave once the heating elements are off and the kiln is cooling to ambient but please hang around while it's actually firing. If firing overnight please come in the next day to turn the kiln off.

= How tos =

'''Do not use the equipment if you have not been inducted!'''
'''If in doubt, consult the Kiln manual(s), and/or speak to one of the owners (or other trained users)!'''

== How to make glass beads ==

=== Preparation ===

Smell if there's any gas around (leak from the gas bottle)... If not:
# Fire up kiln
#* Turn on at the manual switch; wait for "IdLE" to appear. If it says "CpLt" press Start once.
#* Use Programme 1
#** press Review; if it shows #1, then simply press Start twice
#** if it shows some other number, consult the manual how to start Programme 1! [to be expanded]
#*** From IdLE press START (the left button) Use the Up Arrow (not the Down Arrow) to select a firing program - in this case Program 1 for annealing glass beads. Press start until the kiln starts displaying the temperature of the kiln. The clicking noise is normal.
# Get bead release to correct consistency
#* The bead release dries out over time. If it is too thick and lumpy you need to add water to it.<br />Screw on the lid and shake the bead release well to get rid of all the lumps. It should be the consistency of a thick smoothie.
# Get everything (mandrels, tools, water bucket, glass) ready and laid out, so you don't have to bend over the hot flame to fetch it later

The final firing temperature is ~530 degrees; the kiln heats up pretty quickly, so you should be able to start working on the glass bead already.

=== Flameworking ===

For each bead:

# Coat the mandrel
#* tilt the bottle before you dip
#* dip only once, turn the mandrel while it is still in the bottle without touching the sides of the bottle
#* pull out the mandrel without touching the sides of the bottle
# Turn on flame
#* the two 'outer' valves open counter-clockwise, but the 'middle' valve opens ''clockwise''.
#* don't put the lighter directly in front of the nozzle, but slightly below/to the side
#* adjust gas flow so it doesn't sputter but doesn't have a loud "windy" noise either
# Sit on the small stool, resting your elbows on your legs; rest the mandrel on your little finger, and use thumb and index finger to rotate it
# Dry bead release & heat mandrel in flame
# Heat tip of glass rod evenly
#* the hottest part of the flame is just at the tip of the bright blue (inner) cone
#* beware of splinters (thermoshock) -- point rod away from you and other people!
#* if applicable, straighten rod out again before putting away (so the direction of thermoshock is predictable)
# Gently add molten glass onto mandrel - it is easiest to keep your glass rod still and rotate your mandrel away from you, rather than keeping your mandrel still and trying to roll glass onto the mandrel
#* the glass rod should be in the hottest part of the flame, the mandrel slightly further away
#* do not apply any significant force -- this will pull off the bead release
#* do not let the glass touch the mandrels directly (where there isn't any bead release)!
#* create overhang to prevent pointy bits around the hole of the bead
# Things you can do with the bead:
#* add little splinters of glass (put on metal table, scoop back into tube afterwards)
#* use the thin glass rods to draw lines and shapes
#* use a thin mandrel to marble/'paint' (e.g. spirals) between glasses of different color
#** if glass remains stuck to the mandrel, get it red hot and dip into the water bucket; repeat as necessary
#* e.g. silver foil to change color of glass [to be expanded]
# When done, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red; turn off the flame and insert mandrel into kiln
#* make sure ''not'' to touch the walls, and especially not the thermocouple at the back wall!

Repeat as needed for as many mandrels as fit into the kiln.

=== Wrapping up ===

When all the beads are in the kiln:

# Press the Skip Segment button, and then Start
# Stick around till the cooling process has finished, and the kiln returns to "IDLE" (should occur at around 370 degrees Celsius, after around 45 minutes)
# Turn off kiln, and add note saying it's still hot (which it is!)
# Leave mandrels in for another few hours (the next morning if you worked in the evening) so they can cool down to room temperature
# Don't forget to pick up your beads later to make space for other people!

=== Alternative method: Vermiculite ===

If the kiln is in use for fusing, an alternative method of cooling your beads slowly is to place them into the pot of vermiculite as opposed to the heated kiln. The vermiculite traps air around the bead, stopping it from cooling too quickly. Although for small beads this is usually sufficient to prevent the bead from cracking, to be on the safe side, you will need to anneal your bead in the kiln afterwards. (Shops will generally require you to anneal all your beads before you sell them)

# When done working with the bead in the flame, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red
# Turn off the flame, use the marver to push aside the vermiculite a little and plant your bead into the vermiculite.
# Leave it in there until it cools to room temp (how long this takes depends on how big your bead is, but overnight is probably the safest).

TODO - section on how to batch anneal beads in the kiln after cooling in vermiculite

=== Finishing ===

Tips & tricks for how to get beads off mandrel and what to do with them then:

* Take the forceps from the toolbox to grip the mandrel (not the glass bead), and grip the bead with your other hand and rotate
** take care not to bend the mandrel! this is particularly relevant when using the thin mandrels
* Wash the beads to get the bead release off the inside
** there are [these things with teeth on] to scratch off the bead release
** using a shoestring might work, too (for big holes)

Here are some links you may find useful if you want to make your own
glass beads:

http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html

http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== How to fuse glass together ==

Please check out http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/free-videos.html, in particular What is Kiln-glass?, How to Choose a Glass for Kilnforming (especially parts 1-4 and Material Matters: Release Qualities), Glass Cutting, Fusing basics, Preparing Kiln Shelves.

== Other uses of the Kiln ==

The kiln can also be used to fire metal clay or for enamelling. We do not have much experience with this. If you would like to try something, please check out safety requirements and send the proposal to Makespace admin and the glass owners for approval.

== Other uses of the Torch ==

* Annealing metal
* Pulling stringer

Equipment/Glassworking/Training

2018-05-18T19:21:19Z

JWoolf: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment]] / [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking]] / Training

= Glassworking Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the hot torch and glass kiln to make glass beads, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

Training on the Glassworking is run by the Glassworking Owners. The Glassworking Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the glass kiln and torch, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the glass kiln.

== Booking ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots if needed, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/1yqeTSc8m6s/discussion Glass Kiln training]

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to three at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day
* Until we've cleared the backlog, please consider other members, and only sign up for an induction when you actually have something in mind you want to make in the glass kiln, not just because you want to be trained on and able to use everything (don't worry, you ''will'' get trained eventually!)

= Trained Users =

The following members of Makespace are owners of the glassworking stuff, so are trained to use and teach use of Glassworking. THis does not mean they are actually available for teaching at present!!!

Contact "glasskiln" at makespace if you'd like training or wish to become a trainer etc.

* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]

* Laura James

The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the glass kiln and torch (note, they are not qualified to train others however):

{| class="wikitable"
|+Trained Members
!Member!!Date!!By!!Notes

Trained members list held privately.

Note - if you've been trained to use the torch and to anneal beads in the kiln you should be okay to use the kiln for other glasswork, but please read up on how to cut glass safely and check instructions in the kiln manual. If you've only been trained on the kiln (for stripwork, slumps, fused techniques) please don't use the torch without checking with the owners first - there are safety precautions specific to the torch that aren't necessarily obvious.

= Training Cheatsheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the Glassworking Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

Glass Bead making inductions:

Torch:
Three taps. Open all three to work with torch. Close all three after you finish. Do not overtighten or you’ll damage the thread.
1st tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (arrow embossed in tap)
2nd tap: clockwise open. counterclockwise close (label on tap)
3rd tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (direction inscribed in brass tap)
For safety, smell for leaking gas in case last person forgot to close the taps.
Post online and email owners when gas is running low.
Please do not reach over the flame or try to stand up while the flame is still turned on! – Make sure you have everything within reach before you start.

Kiln:
Kiln instructions booklet found in box below table.
For annealing, use program 1.
Be careful not to knock the thermocouple at the back of the kiln.
Allow the bead to cool slightly before putting it in the kiln – if very hot glass touches kiln walls/shelf it can stick.
In annealing program, kiln cools at 222 degrees C/hr until shut off. Try to be around during shut off time. If you can’t, at least make sure that the kiln has completed its program before you head home for the night.
You can add your own program under program 3. If you accidentally change settings for program 1 please re-enter settings for bead annealing as described in instructions book or let us know if you have problems.
Using kiln for fusing glass – go ahead if you know how to do it. If not, inductions will come later. Please only use glue suitable for kilns (eg. Superglue contains cyanide and will release cyanide gas). RapidFire Paper/Powders – wear gas masks and clean the kiln shelves outdoors.

Glass:
Explain compatibility of glass - COE and viscosity. Bullseye sells glass that is COE 90 compatible and not COE 90 compatible. Smaller brands selling COE 90 will advertise their glass as either Bullseye compatible (they’ve tested it), or just COE 90 (they haven’t tested it, but it’s probably ok).
If you use your own glass that is not Bullseye COE 90, please make sure it doesn’t get mixed up with the stock glass.

Demonstrate how to make a glass bead: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

Pulling hot glass rods away from the flame quickly will cause long tapers in the glass rod. Round off glass rods before putting them away as thin long ends of glass can snap off and leave a sharp point.

Thermoshock. Heat glass slowly and cool glass slowly to avoid thermoshock. Keep glass pointed away from you when you heat or cool glass. Make sure people watching are doing so far away or are seated behind you. If your rod gets bent while you are working with it, straighten it while it is hot before letting it cool and putting it away. This makes it easier to guess the direction the bits of glass will fly if it thermoshocks. Careful not to let your bead cool too much too quickly when you are working with it or it can thermoshock. – For the most part the penetration force of the bits of flying glass is low, but the glass can be sharp and hot, causing minor cuts and very small third degree burns. Clean any glass shards on floor with dustpan provided.

Cutting glass. Place glass on flat surface. Use even pressure to score glass. Use glass breaker to apply pressure to the middle of the score line. Clean surface afterwards with damp kitchen towel to remove tiny glass shards that may be difficult to see by eye.

Mandrels:
Be careful as thin mandrels bend easily.

Safety equipment:
Close covered shoes
Safety glasses to cut sodium flare
Safety glasses to look into hot kiln
Gloves for opening kiln door

Costing:
See diagram on wall.

Burns:
Use cold running water for 20min. If it’s really bad, wrap in cling film and go to hospital.

Useful articles to send to people who have been inducted:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

Task
* make a bead

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed through making a bead (watch carefully all steps)

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Add to the trained member list!

Equipment/Flexible Shaft Drill

2018-05-18T16:36:12Z

JWoolf: /* Summary */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Flexible Shaft Drill

[[File:FlexDrill.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Flexible Shaft Drill]]

= Summary =

This is an "Axminster Heavy Duty Flexible Drive Unit" with a foot control, a 4mm keyed chuck handpiece, and a small handpiece with 2.4 and 3.2mm collets. It can be used with small drills, burrs, and polishing wheels. It's mounted to the [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork bench]].

<span style="color:red">'''This is a Category Red tool: training is mandatory.'''</span>

The current owners:

Andy McDonald.

Trained:

Trained list held privately.

= Using the Flexible Shaft Drill =

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment]]

It is essential for anyone using the drill, or nearby spectators, to wear eye protection whenever the drill is running.
Some usages (polishing, in particular) also require a face mask.

The main risk is eye damage: the small drills and other tools sometimes break or grab the workpiece, and they can fly off at high speed in any direction. Grinding and polishing wheels can also send small particles of grit flying off. Action: users must wear eye protection, always.

Additionally, polishing can generate fine dust which should not be inhaled. Action: users should use a face mask when polishing.

Using the drill involves rapidly spinning drills and other tools close to one's fingers. Action: users need to take care to hold and support the drill and workpiece appropriately.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, the burrs and wheels for fine metalworking must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold.

All the flexible shaft accessories (burrs, wheels, handpieces, etc.) must be put away in the right place (one of the drawers of the grey filing cabinet) after use.

When changing handpieces, the projecting ridge on the flexible shaft has to be lined up with the connector inside the handpiece.

When changing collets, only modest finger-tight force on the spanner should be used.

Small drills (less than 1.5mm) can break very easily unless due care is used.

== Usage ==

First select the appropriate handpiece. We have a keyed chuck, for drills between 0.3 and 4.0 mm, and a collet handpiece, for burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts.
To change handpieces, hold the black knurled region on the end of the flexible shaft in one hand, and the handpiece in the other, and pull apart. To put on the other handpiece, line up the projecting ridge on the flexible shaft with the connector inside the handpiece and push together (this shouldn't need too much force: check the alignment if it does).

To change the collet: unscrew the conical cap on the end of the handpiece with the small black spanner, replace the collet with the other one, screw the conical cap back on, and tighten gently with the spanner.

More explanation and pictures are on the [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork bench]] page.

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2018-05-18T16:32:15Z

JWoolf: /* Trained */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

==Owners==

Andy Mcdonald

==Trained==

List held privately.

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please '''(a)''' write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
'''(b)''' put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, ''not'' make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see '''[[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]'''

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 4*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

* a joint cutter [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] (a V-block with a clamp to hold fine tube, an end stop and a slot for a saw blade, for making square cuts in fine tube)

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers (there are two calipers, a cheap axminster one [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/] and a better quality one)
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* two 6"/150mm Flat Files, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* one 6"/150mm Half-round file, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* two Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2), two 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat Files, and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe half-round file, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)
* solid strip solder in hard, medium, and easy grades (melt ranges 745-778°C, 720-765°C, 705-723°C)
* liquid flux [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Auflux-Soldering-Fluid-250ml-Uc-prcode-998-108] (kept in the small metal cupboard in the workshop) and a flux brush


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the solder paste we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux (which we also have).

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2018-05-18T16:29:25Z

JWoolf: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

==Owners==

Andy Mcdonald

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS; MH, MI, MT; AT, KD, MG, MC; MC, A, AD, NP, RG;

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please '''(a)''' write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
'''(b)''' put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, ''not'' make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see '''[[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]'''

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 4*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

* a joint cutter [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] (a V-block with a clamp to hold fine tube, an end stop and a slot for a saw blade, for making square cuts in fine tube)

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers (there are two calipers, a cheap axminster one [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/] and a better quality one)
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* two 6"/150mm Flat Files, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* one 6"/150mm Half-round file, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* two Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2), two 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat Files, and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe half-round file, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)
* solid strip solder in hard, medium, and easy grades (melt ranges 745-778°C, 720-765°C, 705-723°C)
* liquid flux [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Auflux-Soldering-Fluid-250ml-Uc-prcode-998-108] (kept in the small metal cupboard in the workshop) and a flux brush


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the solder paste we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux (which we also have).

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/3D Printer/UM2Training

2018-05-18T16:21:16Z

JWoolf: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/3D Printer|UM2]] / Training

= Ultimaker 2 3D Printer Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the Ultimaker 2 Printer, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~20min each)
* Recommended project oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

A shorter conversion training session is available for members who were previously signed off to use the Makerbot 2X printer. These sessions last around 20 minutes and do not include individual sessions.

== Booking ==

For discussing and arranging slots, please use the mailing list. New training sessions will be announced on the Meetup group.

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have RSVP'd to a Meetup session

== Training Cheatsheet - Conversion Course ==

Members already trained on and familiar with the Makerbot 2X can attend this short conversion course to be signed off to use the Ultimaker 2 3D printer. Up to 10 people can be accommodated on each course, which lasts 20 to 30 minutes.

1. Physical Differences from the 2X
* Glass build plate, no kapton tape
* Single extruder
* Push feed

2. General
* Use the correct filament (2.85mm, NOT 3mm or 1.75mm)
* New filament storage system

3. Printing
* Fence / Brim / Raft
* OK to leave printer unattended after the first few layers
* Camera available for remote monitoring
* Use only plastic implements for part removal, take care not to melt them on the hot end

4. Cura Software
* Import and place
* Simple mode
* Brief overview of advanced mode
* Temperature set on printer not slicer
* Exporting to SD card

5. Unload / Load filament
* How to feed (slow first, then fast)
* Select correct material in menu
* Changing temperature and speed parameters from printer
* Demonstrate the atomic method of cleaning the extruder to prevent feed jams

6. Filament pricing
* 5p per gram for PLA and ABS, to be kept under review
* Include wastage!

== Training Cheatsheet - Full Course ==

'''Group Session'''

1. Ask what each member hopes to get out of the 3D printer.

2. Explain how 3D printing works

3. Safety
* Burn hazard – nozzle and build plate
* Unit may move unexpectedly
* Avoid prolonged exposure to ABS fumes

4. Damage to machine
* Fragile build plate
* Jammed filament

5. General
* Use the correct filament (2.85mm)
* Filament storage and feed system
* Switch off when finished
* Leave levelling to the owners but report any problems

6. PLA vs ABS
* How to tell the difference
* Different temperature
* PLA Biodegradable
* See the Wiki for tips on printing with ABS and cleaning after

7. Software / workflow
* Importing
* Positioning on bed
* Supports
* Setting quality / speed trade off
* Advanced options
* Exporting to SD card
* Wiki for tips on Cura

8. Unload / load
* Check filament for damadge, cut filament at an angle (see Wiki for problems when loading)
* Attaching spool. Ensure correct direction and not tangled
* Feeding (slow then fast)
* Beware of wrapping round axle
* Setting material in menu
* Adjusting parameters, e.g. ABS plate temperature

9. Printing
* Preheating
* Fence printing
* Keep an eye on progress, locally or with camera
* If leaving unattended, put a post-it (or badger) with your contact details
* Use only plastic implements for part removal

10. Other stuff
* Demonstrate atomic method of cleaning the nozzle to prevent feed jams
* Strength characteristics – orientation is important
* '''Paying'''

'''Individual Training Task'''

Task
* Should demonstrate import, setup, position and run
* Choose a part that takes about 10 mins to print (preloaded on PC)

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed to printing (watch carefully all steps)

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Highlight the wiki for more information and owners email address on poster
* Add to the trained member list

'''Project Oversight'''

For next 2-3 projects, recommend member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)

'''Record Training On Wiki'''

== Please write your name clearly below ==

* The trainer will add you to the Trained Users page on the Wiki but can't do that if they are unable to read your name.
* Please remember to check the Wiki for tips and updates on using the Ultimaker.

Date of training:

== Trained Users ==

The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the 3D Printer (note, they are not qualified to train others however):

Stored privately.

Equipment/3D Printer/UM2

2018-05-18T16:12:15Z

JWoolf: /* Trainers */

{{RedTool}}

== Ultimaker 2 & 2+ ==

[[File:UltimakerWithLid.png|left]]

The Ultimaker 2 and 2+ printers are the newest FDM printers at MS. Its design is of a later generation than our [[Equipment/3D_Printer/Makerbot|Makerbot Replicator 2X]] and [[Equipment/3D_Printer/Up|UP!]]. The method of printing is almost identical but the implementation is more refined, so as a result the UM2 is expected to be faster, quieter and more reliable (in terms of both print outcome and maintenance).

The 2+ is almost identical to the 2+ but has an improved feed mechanism, hot end and cooling arrangement. It is intended that our UM2 will be upgraded to 2+ equivalence in due course.

The manufacturer's product information page is [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-family/ultimaker-2 here].

== Owners ==

The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact.

The current Owners of the Ultimaker are:
* Mat Cook

* [[User:StephenHarrison|Stephen Harrison]]

* [[User:Robv|Rob Voisey]]

* Katy Marshall

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.

== Trainers ==

The Trainers are not in charge of maintaining equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.

The current Trainers for the Ultimaker are:
* [[User:StephenHarrison|Stephen Harrison]]
* Katy Marshall

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE ULTIMAKER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/UM2Training#Trained_Users|UM2 Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers
</div>

To get trained on the Ultimaker and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/UM2Training|UM2 Printer Training]]

Note that persons who were previously trained on the Makerbot and UP! can attend a short conversion course to be signed off on the Ultimaker. Such members should not use the Ultimaker without having done this.

== General Health and Safety ==

The Ultimaker is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The Ultimaker is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the Ultimaker are:

* '''ONLY USE THE ULTIMAKER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED'''
* '''ONLY USE THE ULTIMAKER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''

As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start
* Pay close to attention to the start of the job and be prepared to immediately abort the job if necessary

'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'Pause' and 'Abort printing' functions on the Ultimaker so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.

'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printer is heated, and will reach temperatures up to 100C during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzle can reach temperatures of up to 260C. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the guard door securely closed while printing.
* Be careful when the machine has recently been used, especially when removing your print, as it may still be hot enough to burn

'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.

'''FUMES''' - In high concentrations ABS fumes may cause irritation. Do not spend extended periods over the printer whilst it is printing, and turn on the extractor/inlet fans of the main space when doing long print runs.

== Plastics used in the printer ==

'''IMPORTANT''' The Ultimaker uses 2.85mm diameter filament. This must not be confused with the 1.75mm filament used by the other FDM printers at MS.

The Ultimaker can print with three different thermoplastics; PLA (Polylactic Acid), ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and CPE. It is important to select the correct material on the printer control panel when loading filament as the printing parameters vary significantly.

'''PLA''' has a relatively low melting point and is capable of producing high quality prints at very fast speeds. It produces very few fumes and the odour from the melted material is actually quite pleasant. Prints are durable but not as strong as ABS, nonetheless this tends to be the material of choice for printing on the Ultimaker. PLA is available is a wide array of colours and finishes including metallic, glittery and stone effect.

'''ABS''' has a higher melting point than PLA and can be hard to get to stick to the platen. It generally requires a hot platen and raised/consistent ambient (which is why we have added a door and lid to the Ultimaker). Although more difficult to work with the resultant prints can be very strong.

'''CPE''' is a newer material with similar properties to ABS but without the fumes. This material needs to be printed at a high temperature which causes rapid wear of certain components in the extruder. For this reason we do not stock CPE and request that you contact an owner before using it.

The communal stock is kept in plastic boxes under the printers. Plastic filament is susceptible to absorption of moisture (i.e. it is hygroscopic) which causes it to expand and jam in the printer. For this reason the boxes have been fitted with a recirculating dehumidification system. It is important that the lids are removed for the shortest time possible, and that filament is returned to the box as quickly as possible when printing is complete. This will minimise wastage and reduce our costs.

== Specific Safety Tips ==

There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Ultimaker will display its current temperatures but you should not rely on this. The head may also move unexpectedly. Do not open the front door or place any part of your person inside the machine during or immediately prior to printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventilated area.

3D printing can be a lengthy process and you are not required to stand by the printer for the whole duration. You should, however, be present for the first few minutes, monitor your print using the webcam, and whenever possible be nearby to abort a failed print. If you spot the printer unattended with a failed print (this is obvious when it happens, with a rats nest of filament quickly forming) you are encouraged to abort the print on behalf of its creator.

Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.

== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==

The bed is made from glass. Use only plastic implements to remove your prints to minimise the risk of damaging the glass. Should you need to remove the bed for any reason (it is held in with clips) take care handling it and perform a bed levelling operation when you refit it.

The bed should generally be kept clean and free from dust. Wipe only with a lint free cloth (micro fibre cloths are provided) and avoid touching the build surface with your skin.

== Using SD cards with the Ultimaker ==

The Ultimaker 2 does not yet support direct connection to a PC* so you must copy your sliced (G-code) file to a DOS formatted SD card using the SD card writer attached to the PC, and then insert the card into the printer. We have found the Ultimaker to work with most modern cards. Some SD cards are available next to the printer - please remember to return them after use.

* Cura claims to support USB printing but this is unreliable. Launching Cura with an Ultimaker 2 attached via USB can cause the current print to stop immediately and leave the nozzle and build plate at the last position (nose deep in hot filament).

== Remote access - Watch the printer via the Internet ==

'''Sorry. Currently broken due to network gear changes.'''

You can view your Ultimaker print remotely, this allows you to check that the print hasn't failed and to monitor when the printer is finished before returning to the space to collect your print.

Navigate to [http://makespace.ddns.net:8000/ PLA Printer] or [http://makespace.ddns.net:8001 ABS Printer] and select the Control tab.

* You do not need to be logged into OctoPrint to view the camera, anybody can view it (you may wish to cover the camera if you are printing sensitive projects).
* Internet Explorer doesn't appear to support the streaming video, Use Chrome or FireFox (untested with other browsers).
* It's can be a little slow to load and may be unresponsive when multiple people are connected.
* The url will only work outside of the Makespace network. See the links on Chrome toolbar on the the Ultimaker PC for internal addresses.

We use OctoPrint for the streaming and messages only. The Ultimaker does not behave correctly when connecting via USB so other functionality is not available.

== Ultimaker Tips ==

'''Blocked nozzle when loading filament:'''

We've had a number of blockages reported when members are trying to load the filament.

1) Sometimes this is not actually the nozzle being blocked but the filament feed pipe not being fully homed into the extruder. If you have problems getting the filament to load check the feed pipe where it enters the extruder, if you notice a ring around the pipe above the white press fit fitting then the pipe has not been fitted correctly and the filament will hit the inside of the extruder before it even gets to the PTFE coupler.

[[File:FeedpipeInsertion.png]]

You may resolve the issue by un-clipping the white push-fit fitting, pressing down and removing the pipe then carefully re-inserting it ensuring it is straight and fully homed. You should not see any rings around the pipe when it is fully homed and inspection of the middle of the extruder you should see the pipe butted up against the white PTFE coupler between the extruder body and nozzle.

This problem may be more apparent if you are using filament that is nearing the end of the reel where the filament becomes very curved. Try a different filament that is straighter.

2) Sometimes the filament hits the side wall of the PTFE coupler before it enters the hot end. When you remove the filament from a failed load check the end, if it has not been heated then it did not make it to the nozzle. Try loading it again.

When loading the filament cut the end at an angle as this reduces the chances of it getting stuck.

'''Blocked nozzle / feed failure during printing'''

The reason is that some burnt leftover filament remains inside the extruder from the previous print, because the lower extrusion temperature for PLA does not completely melt the unwanted material. Often this doesn't prevent initial loading of PLA because the material change cycle heats the nozzle to a higher temperature, but during printing the feed can be reduced or blocked entirely.

The UM2 printer is prone to nozzle blockage when switching from ABS to PLA filament (or from any higher temperature material to a lower temperature material), we have found that separating PLA and ABS on different printers reduced the nozzle problems. Do not mix printers and materials.

If you plan to use a material other than regular ABS/PLA please discuss it with the owners. Nylon appears to have caused a number of problems on the ABS printers (we found this out by needing to fix the printer and finding nylon residue in the printer head - The person printing probably may have been happy, the people after found a broken printer).

Instructions here: [https://ultimaker.com/en/support/149-atomic-method Ultimaker Atomic Method]

There are some important notes:

1. Take great care not to lose the little blue bowden tube clamp clip. It has a tendency to ping across the room!

2. The instructions say to use a quick firm pull to remove the filament. They mean it! If you pull slowly the filament will simply stretch and you'll have to start over.

3. On reassembly ensure that the bowden tube is pushed fully into position. See above!

4. Be sure to refit the little blue bowden tube. We cannot buy replacements for these and they help improve print quality.

'''Filament stuck in tube / Unable to remove filament:'''

Occasionally the filament will remove with a ball on the hot end bigger than the diameter of the tube, it then gets stuck. When this happens keep repeating the remove filament process (change filament, try remove, cancel load).

You may find it useful to apply a little extra downwards force on the filament under the feeder as it is being removed, this also helps if the filament jammed and caused the feeder to take a bite out of the filament.

'''General 3D printing Quality Tips'''

Check out the excellent [https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ 3D printing quality troubleshooting guide] from Simplify 3D

'''Cura software tips'''

[https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software Download Ultimaker Cura Software]

The Cura software remembers the previous settings used for a print and in some cases carries the advanced settings over to the basic option but doesn't display it (e.g. Brim). This can cause problems in a shared environment that the Ultimaker PC lives in as you may not get appropriate printing settings for your print if the last person adjusted them. Use the Clean Cura link on the desktop or reboot the PC to restore Cura settings back to the default.

As the Ultimaker prints from an SD card and material settings are set on the printer itself you may prefer to install the Cura software on your own computer and save the file to an SD Card rather than using the Ultimaker PC to ensure you have settings that work best for your use case.

Version 2.x is the newer version of Cura (Not 15.xx).

Be sure to select the correct material when using Cura. We are not sure what effect it has on the slicer. Temperature settings are set by the printer.

Ensure the the 0.4mm Nozzle is selected.

If you need more advanced slicing try Simplify 3D (you will need to buy your own license). You can define processing layers within Simplify and have different settings (infill etc) for those layers) [https://www.simplify3d.com/ Simplify 3D]

Layers view in Cura can be incredibly useful (Select the eye icon in the left hand side).

1. Drill down to Layer 1, this is the most critical. Ensure you have the parts of the model on the build plate you expect (if you have as slight overhang in your model that would be on the plate this shows up).
2. If you have Brim or Supports selected, these are shown in the Layers view as different colours.
3. It can be useful to enable supports in this view as you may find somewhere that needs supports that you missed.

Printing Profiles:

1. Fast Print. This works really well and still has a good quality. I often increase the layer height to 0.2 or o.25mm to get an even quicker print and it still works well.
2. Normal Print. If you need a better quality print try this. It will be slower than Fast Print.
3. High Quality. Use this only if you really need high quality (look for the yellow chess piece for an example). This will be very slow to print - the chess piece took 12 hours.

'''Filament not on a reel'''

Short lengths of filament are sold by many places rather than a full reel worth, we have a MakeSpace laser cut acrylic reel that you can use to roll these onto and place on the back of the Ultimaker. It has a larger diameter center to help. This is kept in the loose filament box. If it has filament on it already remove that filament.

'''Ultimaker Lid'''

Ultimaker do not provide a lid for the UM2 so we have a laser cut acrylic MakeSpace made one. Please be gentle with it!

If you have problems with the lid please report it to the Ultimaker Owners to allow us to improve the design and fix issues.

You should not need to remove the lid in normal day to day use. If you do remove it please ensure you replace it as it keeps dust from getting onto the plate (which messes up the print - Makespace is VERY dusty!) and helps keep the printing environment temperature better which should help improve your prints. The lid can be tilted back 90° and rested on the top of the printer if you need access to the nozzle.

'''ABS Printing'''

The default setting for the Ultimaker bed temperature is fairly low for ABS, we have found prints do not stick well at this temperature.

* When loading ABS check the bed temperature displayed on the screen when selecting the material
* A custom option is pre-defined for ABS with a higher bed temperature, we recommend around 110°C bed temperature for ABS.
* If you selected the wrong option when loading the filament the bed temperature can be adjusted when printing through the "Tune" menu option.

If the print does not stick try using the purple glue sticks.

ABS has a tendency to warp (lift) when printed, especially the corners of boxes. Use a Brim in Cura to reduce this and improve general bed adhesion.

'''Be sure to clean the bed after printing with a glue stick (or other adhesion method)'''

The purple glue sticks work well for printing ABS and for cleaning up afterwards. The glue sets clear but when damp will appear purple again. When you have finished your print and the bed cooled use a damp cloth to remove the glue until their is no more purple.

If the bed is very messy please contact the owners so we can remove the glass plate and clean it.

'''Fun filaments'''

We may not have a stock of these so you may wish to get your own (or request the owners to purchase if you just want a small quantity), but if you are looking for a fun effect on your print they are worth a look

* Bronze Gold. Creates a great steam punk look. [http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/filaprint-bronze-gold-premium-pla-285mm-3d-printer-filament-1295-p.asp 3DFilaprint Bronze Gold 2.85mm PLA]
* Thermochanging Blue Green to Yellow Green. Changes colour with temperature (body heat is enough). [http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/reprapper-tech-pla-3mm-blue-green-to-yellow-green-thermochanging-filament-592-p.asp Reprapper Tech PLA 3mm Blue Green to Yellow Green]

Purple thermochanging filament did not want to stick to the printer bed.

'''Ultimaker Community'''

Be sure to check out the [https://ultimaker.com/en/community/dashboard Ultimaker Community site] it is very active and a great resource.

== Filament storage ==

We have a few dedicated filament storage boxes for the Ultimaker. These boxes are humidity controlled and have a Silica gel cartridge fitted to the lid to remove moisture. Yes, they are internet connected to allow the owners to monitor the humidity level and replace the silica gel when required. We aim to keep the humidity level below 15% in the box.

* Ensure the lid is kept closed on the filament storage boxes, leaving the lid off will degrade the silica gel quickly.
* Be sure to return the filament to the correct storage box after use to prevent undue exposure to moisture in the air which can ruin the filament.
* Do not store your own filament in the filament boxes. Personal filament should be stored in your own MakeSpace box.
** Keep your filament in a sealed plastic bag (or wrap with clingfilm).
** We have a supply of Silica gel on the shelf above the Ultimaker, you may wish to add a scoop or two into your bag to keep the moisture down. Use only the Orange colour silica gel. Green/Brown gel needs to be cooked to remove moisture.
** Do not eat the silica gel!!!

== Maintenance ==

See [[Ultimaker Maintenance]]

-----------------

TO BE COMPLETED ASAP

Equipment/3D Printer/UM2

2018-05-18T16:11:29Z

JWoolf: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

== Ultimaker 2 & 2+ ==

[[File:UltimakerWithLid.png|left]]

The Ultimaker 2 and 2+ printers are the newest FDM printers at MS. Its design is of a later generation than our [[Equipment/3D_Printer/Makerbot|Makerbot Replicator 2X]] and [[Equipment/3D_Printer/Up|UP!]]. The method of printing is almost identical but the implementation is more refined, so as a result the UM2 is expected to be faster, quieter and more reliable (in terms of both print outcome and maintenance).

The 2+ is almost identical to the 2+ but has an improved feed mechanism, hot end and cooling arrangement. It is intended that our UM2 will be upgraded to 2+ equivalence in due course.

The manufacturer's product information page is [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-family/ultimaker-2 here].

== Owners ==

The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact.

The current Owners of the Ultimaker are:
* Mat Cook

* [[User:StephenHarrison|Stephen Harrison]]

* [[User:Robv|Rob Voisey]]

* Katy Marshall

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.

== Trainers ==

The Trainers are not in charge of maintaining equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.

The current Trainers for the Ultimaker are:
* [[User:Robv|Rob Voisey]]
* Paul Edgington
* [[User:StephenHarrison|Stephen Harrison]]
* [[User:Danieljabailey|Daniel Bailey]]
* Katy Marshall
* Boyuan Xiao

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE ULTIMAKER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/UM2Training#Trained_Users|UM2 Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers
</div>

To get trained on the Ultimaker and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/UM2Training|UM2 Printer Training]]

Note that persons who were previously trained on the Makerbot and UP! can attend a short conversion course to be signed off on the Ultimaker. Such members should not use the Ultimaker without having done this.

== General Health and Safety ==

The Ultimaker is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The Ultimaker is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the Ultimaker are:

* '''ONLY USE THE ULTIMAKER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED'''
* '''ONLY USE THE ULTIMAKER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''

As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start
* Pay close to attention to the start of the job and be prepared to immediately abort the job if necessary

'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'Pause' and 'Abort printing' functions on the Ultimaker so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.

'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printer is heated, and will reach temperatures up to 100C during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzle can reach temperatures of up to 260C. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the guard door securely closed while printing.
* Be careful when the machine has recently been used, especially when removing your print, as it may still be hot enough to burn

'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.

'''FUMES''' - In high concentrations ABS fumes may cause irritation. Do not spend extended periods over the printer whilst it is printing, and turn on the extractor/inlet fans of the main space when doing long print runs.

== Plastics used in the printer ==

'''IMPORTANT''' The Ultimaker uses 2.85mm diameter filament. This must not be confused with the 1.75mm filament used by the other FDM printers at MS.

The Ultimaker can print with three different thermoplastics; PLA (Polylactic Acid), ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and CPE. It is important to select the correct material on the printer control panel when loading filament as the printing parameters vary significantly.

'''PLA''' has a relatively low melting point and is capable of producing high quality prints at very fast speeds. It produces very few fumes and the odour from the melted material is actually quite pleasant. Prints are durable but not as strong as ABS, nonetheless this tends to be the material of choice for printing on the Ultimaker. PLA is available is a wide array of colours and finishes including metallic, glittery and stone effect.

'''ABS''' has a higher melting point than PLA and can be hard to get to stick to the platen. It generally requires a hot platen and raised/consistent ambient (which is why we have added a door and lid to the Ultimaker). Although more difficult to work with the resultant prints can be very strong.

'''CPE''' is a newer material with similar properties to ABS but without the fumes. This material needs to be printed at a high temperature which causes rapid wear of certain components in the extruder. For this reason we do not stock CPE and request that you contact an owner before using it.

The communal stock is kept in plastic boxes under the printers. Plastic filament is susceptible to absorption of moisture (i.e. it is hygroscopic) which causes it to expand and jam in the printer. For this reason the boxes have been fitted with a recirculating dehumidification system. It is important that the lids are removed for the shortest time possible, and that filament is returned to the box as quickly as possible when printing is complete. This will minimise wastage and reduce our costs.

== Specific Safety Tips ==

There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Ultimaker will display its current temperatures but you should not rely on this. The head may also move unexpectedly. Do not open the front door or place any part of your person inside the machine during or immediately prior to printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventilated area.

3D printing can be a lengthy process and you are not required to stand by the printer for the whole duration. You should, however, be present for the first few minutes, monitor your print using the webcam, and whenever possible be nearby to abort a failed print. If you spot the printer unattended with a failed print (this is obvious when it happens, with a rats nest of filament quickly forming) you are encouraged to abort the print on behalf of its creator.

Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.

== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==

The bed is made from glass. Use only plastic implements to remove your prints to minimise the risk of damaging the glass. Should you need to remove the bed for any reason (it is held in with clips) take care handling it and perform a bed levelling operation when you refit it.

The bed should generally be kept clean and free from dust. Wipe only with a lint free cloth (micro fibre cloths are provided) and avoid touching the build surface with your skin.

== Using SD cards with the Ultimaker ==

The Ultimaker 2 does not yet support direct connection to a PC* so you must copy your sliced (G-code) file to a DOS formatted SD card using the SD card writer attached to the PC, and then insert the card into the printer. We have found the Ultimaker to work with most modern cards. Some SD cards are available next to the printer - please remember to return them after use.

* Cura claims to support USB printing but this is unreliable. Launching Cura with an Ultimaker 2 attached via USB can cause the current print to stop immediately and leave the nozzle and build plate at the last position (nose deep in hot filament).

== Remote access - Watch the printer via the Internet ==

'''Sorry. Currently broken due to network gear changes.'''

You can view your Ultimaker print remotely, this allows you to check that the print hasn't failed and to monitor when the printer is finished before returning to the space to collect your print.

Navigate to [http://makespace.ddns.net:8000/ PLA Printer] or [http://makespace.ddns.net:8001 ABS Printer] and select the Control tab.

* You do not need to be logged into OctoPrint to view the camera, anybody can view it (you may wish to cover the camera if you are printing sensitive projects).
* Internet Explorer doesn't appear to support the streaming video, Use Chrome or FireFox (untested with other browsers).
* It's can be a little slow to load and may be unresponsive when multiple people are connected.
* The url will only work outside of the Makespace network. See the links on Chrome toolbar on the the Ultimaker PC for internal addresses.

We use OctoPrint for the streaming and messages only. The Ultimaker does not behave correctly when connecting via USB so other functionality is not available.

== Ultimaker Tips ==

'''Blocked nozzle when loading filament:'''

We've had a number of blockages reported when members are trying to load the filament.

1) Sometimes this is not actually the nozzle being blocked but the filament feed pipe not being fully homed into the extruder. If you have problems getting the filament to load check the feed pipe where it enters the extruder, if you notice a ring around the pipe above the white press fit fitting then the pipe has not been fitted correctly and the filament will hit the inside of the extruder before it even gets to the PTFE coupler.

[[File:FeedpipeInsertion.png]]

You may resolve the issue by un-clipping the white push-fit fitting, pressing down and removing the pipe then carefully re-inserting it ensuring it is straight and fully homed. You should not see any rings around the pipe when it is fully homed and inspection of the middle of the extruder you should see the pipe butted up against the white PTFE coupler between the extruder body and nozzle.

This problem may be more apparent if you are using filament that is nearing the end of the reel where the filament becomes very curved. Try a different filament that is straighter.

2) Sometimes the filament hits the side wall of the PTFE coupler before it enters the hot end. When you remove the filament from a failed load check the end, if it has not been heated then it did not make it to the nozzle. Try loading it again.

When loading the filament cut the end at an angle as this reduces the chances of it getting stuck.

'''Blocked nozzle / feed failure during printing'''

The reason is that some burnt leftover filament remains inside the extruder from the previous print, because the lower extrusion temperature for PLA does not completely melt the unwanted material. Often this doesn't prevent initial loading of PLA because the material change cycle heats the nozzle to a higher temperature, but during printing the feed can be reduced or blocked entirely.

The UM2 printer is prone to nozzle blockage when switching from ABS to PLA filament (or from any higher temperature material to a lower temperature material), we have found that separating PLA and ABS on different printers reduced the nozzle problems. Do not mix printers and materials.

If you plan to use a material other than regular ABS/PLA please discuss it with the owners. Nylon appears to have caused a number of problems on the ABS printers (we found this out by needing to fix the printer and finding nylon residue in the printer head - The person printing probably may have been happy, the people after found a broken printer).

Instructions here: [https://ultimaker.com/en/support/149-atomic-method Ultimaker Atomic Method]

There are some important notes:

1. Take great care not to lose the little blue bowden tube clamp clip. It has a tendency to ping across the room!

2. The instructions say to use a quick firm pull to remove the filament. They mean it! If you pull slowly the filament will simply stretch and you'll have to start over.

3. On reassembly ensure that the bowden tube is pushed fully into position. See above!

4. Be sure to refit the little blue bowden tube. We cannot buy replacements for these and they help improve print quality.

'''Filament stuck in tube / Unable to remove filament:'''

Occasionally the filament will remove with a ball on the hot end bigger than the diameter of the tube, it then gets stuck. When this happens keep repeating the remove filament process (change filament, try remove, cancel load).

You may find it useful to apply a little extra downwards force on the filament under the feeder as it is being removed, this also helps if the filament jammed and caused the feeder to take a bite out of the filament.

'''General 3D printing Quality Tips'''

Check out the excellent [https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ 3D printing quality troubleshooting guide] from Simplify 3D

'''Cura software tips'''

[https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software Download Ultimaker Cura Software]

The Cura software remembers the previous settings used for a print and in some cases carries the advanced settings over to the basic option but doesn't display it (e.g. Brim). This can cause problems in a shared environment that the Ultimaker PC lives in as you may not get appropriate printing settings for your print if the last person adjusted them. Use the Clean Cura link on the desktop or reboot the PC to restore Cura settings back to the default.

As the Ultimaker prints from an SD card and material settings are set on the printer itself you may prefer to install the Cura software on your own computer and save the file to an SD Card rather than using the Ultimaker PC to ensure you have settings that work best for your use case.

Version 2.x is the newer version of Cura (Not 15.xx).

Be sure to select the correct material when using Cura. We are not sure what effect it has on the slicer. Temperature settings are set by the printer.

Ensure the the 0.4mm Nozzle is selected.

If you need more advanced slicing try Simplify 3D (you will need to buy your own license). You can define processing layers within Simplify and have different settings (infill etc) for those layers) [https://www.simplify3d.com/ Simplify 3D]

Layers view in Cura can be incredibly useful (Select the eye icon in the left hand side).

1. Drill down to Layer 1, this is the most critical. Ensure you have the parts of the model on the build plate you expect (if you have as slight overhang in your model that would be on the plate this shows up).
2. If you have Brim or Supports selected, these are shown in the Layers view as different colours.
3. It can be useful to enable supports in this view as you may find somewhere that needs supports that you missed.

Printing Profiles:

1. Fast Print. This works really well and still has a good quality. I often increase the layer height to 0.2 or o.25mm to get an even quicker print and it still works well.
2. Normal Print. If you need a better quality print try this. It will be slower than Fast Print.
3. High Quality. Use this only if you really need high quality (look for the yellow chess piece for an example). This will be very slow to print - the chess piece took 12 hours.

'''Filament not on a reel'''

Short lengths of filament are sold by many places rather than a full reel worth, we have a MakeSpace laser cut acrylic reel that you can use to roll these onto and place on the back of the Ultimaker. It has a larger diameter center to help. This is kept in the loose filament box. If it has filament on it already remove that filament.

'''Ultimaker Lid'''

Ultimaker do not provide a lid for the UM2 so we have a laser cut acrylic MakeSpace made one. Please be gentle with it!

If you have problems with the lid please report it to the Ultimaker Owners to allow us to improve the design and fix issues.

You should not need to remove the lid in normal day to day use. If you do remove it please ensure you replace it as it keeps dust from getting onto the plate (which messes up the print - Makespace is VERY dusty!) and helps keep the printing environment temperature better which should help improve your prints. The lid can be tilted back 90° and rested on the top of the printer if you need access to the nozzle.

'''ABS Printing'''

The default setting for the Ultimaker bed temperature is fairly low for ABS, we have found prints do not stick well at this temperature.

* When loading ABS check the bed temperature displayed on the screen when selecting the material
* A custom option is pre-defined for ABS with a higher bed temperature, we recommend around 110°C bed temperature for ABS.
* If you selected the wrong option when loading the filament the bed temperature can be adjusted when printing through the "Tune" menu option.

If the print does not stick try using the purple glue sticks.

ABS has a tendency to warp (lift) when printed, especially the corners of boxes. Use a Brim in Cura to reduce this and improve general bed adhesion.

'''Be sure to clean the bed after printing with a glue stick (or other adhesion method)'''

The purple glue sticks work well for printing ABS and for cleaning up afterwards. The glue sets clear but when damp will appear purple again. When you have finished your print and the bed cooled use a damp cloth to remove the glue until their is no more purple.

If the bed is very messy please contact the owners so we can remove the glass plate and clean it.

'''Fun filaments'''

We may not have a stock of these so you may wish to get your own (or request the owners to purchase if you just want a small quantity), but if you are looking for a fun effect on your print they are worth a look

* Bronze Gold. Creates a great steam punk look. [http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/filaprint-bronze-gold-premium-pla-285mm-3d-printer-filament-1295-p.asp 3DFilaprint Bronze Gold 2.85mm PLA]
* Thermochanging Blue Green to Yellow Green. Changes colour with temperature (body heat is enough). [http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/reprapper-tech-pla-3mm-blue-green-to-yellow-green-thermochanging-filament-592-p.asp Reprapper Tech PLA 3mm Blue Green to Yellow Green]

Purple thermochanging filament did not want to stick to the printer bed.

'''Ultimaker Community'''

Be sure to check out the [https://ultimaker.com/en/community/dashboard Ultimaker Community site] it is very active and a great resource.

== Filament storage ==

We have a few dedicated filament storage boxes for the Ultimaker. These boxes are humidity controlled and have a Silica gel cartridge fitted to the lid to remove moisture. Yes, they are internet connected to allow the owners to monitor the humidity level and replace the silica gel when required. We aim to keep the humidity level below 15% in the box.

* Ensure the lid is kept closed on the filament storage boxes, leaving the lid off will degrade the silica gel quickly.
* Be sure to return the filament to the correct storage box after use to prevent undue exposure to moisture in the air which can ruin the filament.
* Do not store your own filament in the filament boxes. Personal filament should be stored in your own MakeSpace box.
** Keep your filament in a sealed plastic bag (or wrap with clingfilm).
** We have a supply of Silica gel on the shelf above the Ultimaker, you may wish to add a scoop or two into your bag to keep the moisture down. Use only the Orange colour silica gel. Green/Brown gel needs to be cooked to remove moisture.
** Do not eat the silica gel!!!

== Maintenance ==

See [[Ultimaker Maintenance]]

-----------------

TO BE COMPLETED ASAP

Equipment

2018-05-18T16:01:13Z

JWoolf: /* The Workshop */

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]

The equipment you can find in Makespace.

== Using our Equipment ==

There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.

Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Honesty boxes]].

[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.

Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.

'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].

== The Workshop ==

* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe - Myford]]
* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]]
* Metalwork Benches
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]
* Woodwork Benches
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]]
* [[Equipment/Router|Router]]

== The Space ==

* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer_SLA|3D Printer (SLA)]]
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill|PCB Mill]]
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
* General Tools
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]
* [[Equipment/Computer_CAD_Workstation|CAD Workstation]]

== Craft area ==
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* large table for cutting or working at
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]
* PC with CAD software, scanner and link to Vinyl cutter
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]

== Classroom ==
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]
== Corridor Cupboards ==
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]

== Proposals and Notes ==

* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]
* [[Equipment/3D Scanner|3D Scanner]]

== Related ==
* [[OwnersPage|List of owners and their duties]]
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

Equipment/WoodLathe

2018-05-18T15:56:00Z

JWoolf: /* Training and approved operator */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / WoodLathe

[[File:Woodlathe.jpg|thumb|420px|right|Our woodworking lathe]]

= Summary =

We have a woodworking lathe kindly donated to us on indefinite loan by Kim Spence-Jones. It is a quality machine in fair condition but it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.

[[File:woodlathe_picture.png|300px]]

= Using the woodworking lathe =

The lathe is a wood turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 30cm (12 inches) in diameter for bowls (20cm for spindles) and about 125cm (4') long. The lathe is solidly built so with care excellent results can be obtained. We currently have few lathe tools, which should allow most basic woodworking operations to be undertaken.

This lathe has five speeds, it cannot be run in reverse.

== Safety ==

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

Dust from many woods can cause allergic reactions in some individuals, and some woods have been identified as carcenogenic. There is a book in the library ("Wood for Wood Turners" by Mark Baker) which documents possible health risks for 150 different woods.

'''The Key hazards are:'''

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) shall be worn GLASSES ARE MANDATORY!

• Point of operation – Contact with the tool or cuter head may occur.

• Contact with moving parts, such as the power transmission, chucks, spindles, and the workpiece.

• Getting loose clothes, jewelry, or long hair caught in rotating parts: Entanglement is a serious hazard on a lathe.
Loose clothes or long hair can become entangled around the rotating parts of the lathe pulling the operator into the cutter or rotating stock resulting in significant injury.

• Being struck by flying chips or wood splinters thrown by the cutting action.

• Being struck by a workpiece that has not been adequately secured in the lathe or is oversized or unbalanced.

• Inhalation of dust and particles.

• Dropping objects on foot.

• A visual pre-operation inspection should be done prior to use:
- Remove chuck keys, adjusting wrenches and knockout bars. Form a habit of checking for these before turning on the lathe.
- Cord should be checked for cracks or worn areas. Remove from operation if cord is damaged or if plug does not have proper grounding (3-prong).
- Make sure there is enough tension in the belt

== Owners ==

The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.

Woodlathe owner:

*John Perdue

You can contact the owner this address [mailto:woodlathe@makespace.org woodlathe@makespace.org]

== Training and approved operator ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">

THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.
</div>

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

[[File:Woodlathe_training.pdf]]

== Instructions ==

=== Safety Advice ===
[http://www.woodturner.org/resources/safety.htm American Association of Woodturners' Safety Advice]

[http://www.safetyservicescompany.com/topic/training/wood-lathe-safety-tips/ Wood Lathe Safety Tips]

=== Useful Links ===

[http://www.cambridge-woodturners.co.uk/ Cambridge Woodturners]

More to be detailed

= Maintenance =

The maintenance is done by the owners on a regular basis

Checking that all the screws are securely fastened (pulleys, chuck...)

Checking that the tools are still sharp, other wise rotate the cartridge.

== Peripheral tools and accessories ==

Photo-list of current [[Equipment/WoodLathe/Accessories|Woodworking lathe accessories]].

Running the lathe will require many accessories, a suggested list will be developed

= Associated documents =
[[File:Wood_Lathe_risk_assess.pdf]]

[[File:Woodlathe_training.pdf]]

Equipment/WoodLathe

2018-05-18T15:52:21Z

JWoolf: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / WoodLathe

[[File:Woodlathe.jpg|thumb|420px|right|Our woodworking lathe]]

= Summary =

We have a woodworking lathe kindly donated to us on indefinite loan by Kim Spence-Jones. It is a quality machine in fair condition but it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.

[[File:woodlathe_picture.png|300px]]

= Using the woodworking lathe =

The lathe is a wood turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 30cm (12 inches) in diameter for bowls (20cm for spindles) and about 125cm (4') long. The lathe is solidly built so with care excellent results can be obtained. We currently have few lathe tools, which should allow most basic woodworking operations to be undertaken.

This lathe has five speeds, it cannot be run in reverse.

== Safety ==

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

Dust from many woods can cause allergic reactions in some individuals, and some woods have been identified as carcenogenic. There is a book in the library ("Wood for Wood Turners" by Mark Baker) which documents possible health risks for 150 different woods.

'''The Key hazards are:'''

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) shall be worn GLASSES ARE MANDATORY!

• Point of operation – Contact with the tool or cuter head may occur.

• Contact with moving parts, such as the power transmission, chucks, spindles, and the workpiece.

• Getting loose clothes, jewelry, or long hair caught in rotating parts: Entanglement is a serious hazard on a lathe.
Loose clothes or long hair can become entangled around the rotating parts of the lathe pulling the operator into the cutter or rotating stock resulting in significant injury.

• Being struck by flying chips or wood splinters thrown by the cutting action.

• Being struck by a workpiece that has not been adequately secured in the lathe or is oversized or unbalanced.

• Inhalation of dust and particles.

• Dropping objects on foot.

• A visual pre-operation inspection should be done prior to use:
- Remove chuck keys, adjusting wrenches and knockout bars. Form a habit of checking for these before turning on the lathe.
- Cord should be checked for cracks or worn areas. Remove from operation if cord is damaged or if plug does not have proper grounding (3-prong).
- Make sure there is enough tension in the belt

== Owners ==

The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.

Woodlathe owner:

*John Perdue

You can contact the owner this address [mailto:woodlathe@makespace.org woodlathe@makespace.org]

== Training and approved operator ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">

THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.
</div>

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

[[File:Woodlathe_training.pdf]]

The approved operator are:

Diana Probst (trained by Cadu and Louis 26/08/16)

Robin Sterling (trained by Louis 16/09/16)

Martin Lenz (trained by Louis 16/09/16)

Frody Jones (trained by Louis 22/09/16)

Will Nock

Richie Fosh

== Instructions ==

=== Safety Advice ===
[http://www.woodturner.org/resources/safety.htm American Association of Woodturners' Safety Advice]

[http://www.safetyservicescompany.com/topic/training/wood-lathe-safety-tips/ Wood Lathe Safety Tips]

=== Useful Links ===

[http://www.cambridge-woodturners.co.uk/ Cambridge Woodturners]

More to be detailed

= Maintenance =

The maintenance is done by the owners on a regular basis

Checking that all the screws are securely fastened (pulleys, chuck...)

Checking that the tools are still sharp, other wise rotate the cartridge.

== Peripheral tools and accessories ==

Photo-list of current [[Equipment/WoodLathe/Accessories|Woodworking lathe accessories]].

Running the lathe will require many accessories, a suggested list will be developed

= Associated documents =
[[File:Wood_Lathe_risk_assess.pdf]]

[[File:Woodlathe_training.pdf]]

Equipment/WarcoMill/Training

2018-05-18T15:31:32Z

JWoolf: /* Trainers */

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>THE MILL CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br>
</div>

Training and induction will start with a tour of the tool introducing all its parts. The training we give is a course of about 10 hours, in several sessions, and is intended to get a user started with enough information to work safely alone in aluminium and brass.

All trained users must sign a [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1fKSRiY0_zrLGFZ47uiUYaxeDdCYLk91etjuxltmfV2k/edit?usp=sharing safety work-list] before being signed off as competent on the Warco mill.

[https://docs.google.com/document/d/13lQ4t1RRx7cGYytwD7E-Dg0Pstm2lZB0eKuCg8dDNyc/edit?usp=sharing Lesson 1 script]<br>
[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1mfN7JvnaYk4J8iicOznE8pkpWFN-kGCtKvgEWc73V5w/edit?usp=sharing Lesson 2 script]<br>
[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1b9cfFrsTvM1Xl9mLMjN1aBLy9p01ao8WE1qDZkrgZGI/edit?usp=sharing Lesson 3 script]<br>
[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1XtusHkKJt24aJodyJ5e330CRioY-CL3FWVzMMIiQjNI/edit?usp=sharing Lesson 4 script]

As well as the training we give, this series of metal working videos from MIT is highly recommended. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

== Owners ==

* Mat Cook
* Diana Probst
* Roger Smith

== Trainers ==

* Diana Probst

Equipment/Lathe/Training

2018-05-18T15:24:03Z

JWoolf: /* Trained user list */

= Lathe Training =

Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.

The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.

Gloves are NOT recommended.

Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.

Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.

The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.

The training script is available [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Jei2wuluk728dv71LJ4BJGIson9IU74uLyVKNtf9-tE/edit?usp=sharing here].

Equipment/Lathe

2018-05-18T15:23:24Z

JWoolf: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe

[[File:Myford.jpg|thumb|420px|right|Our Myford super 7]]

= Summary =

We have a Myford super 7 lathe kindly donated on a long-term loan by Martha Levine. It is a quality machine in fair condition but it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.

<gallery>
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg
</gallery>

= Using the lathe =

The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. Some of our accessories are listed at
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]

= Health and Safety =

The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.

Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.

The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.

Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].

= Owners =

The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.

= Training =

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br>
</div>

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]

= Instructions =

There is a book, "Myford series 7 manual", by Ian Bradley available in the workshop (please do not remove it). We also have a Lathe safety manual from the CRC. These provide a comprehensive guide to using the Myford. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at these publications - in Makespace.

= Maintenance =

The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.

Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.

The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.

= Peripheral tools and accessories =
Photo-list of current [[Equipment/Lathe/Accessories|lathe accessories]].

Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Accessories/accessories.htm

= Lathe Inserts (replaceable cutting tips) =
There are selection of replaceable cutting inserts for the lathes. Replaceable inserts reduce the need sharpening and grinding of custom tools. They can be purchased from:

http://www.glanze.co.uk/acatalog/Replacement_Inserts___Spares.html (please feel free to list other sources)

The list below is provided as a guide if anyone needs to purchase replacements.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Supplier
! Supplier Part Number
! Description
! Cost
! Comments
|-
| Glanze.co.uk
| CGGSP
| 2 mm Parting Insert
| £4.55
| (Inc. VAT Sold Individually)
|-
| Glanze.co.uk
| CCMT060204S.
|
| £2.30
| (Inc. VAT Each when purchased in Box of 10)

|-
| Glanze.co.uk
| DCGT
|
| £2.40
| (Inc. VAT Each when purchased in Box of 10)
|}

Equipment/CNC Router/Training

2018-05-18T15:17:58Z

JWoolf: /* Owners/Trainers */

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]] / Training

= CNC Router Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the CNC Router, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30-45 min each)
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

Training on the CNC Router is run by the CNC Router Owners. The CNC Router Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the CNC Router, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the CNC Router.

== Getting onto a training session ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/0aNnAEGF-5U/discussion Training : CNC Router ]

Please be patient - training is provided by volunteers who give up their free time to run sessions.

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot

= Owners/Trainers =

The following members of Makespace are owners and/or trainers of the CNC Router, so are trained to use and teach use of the Router:

*Mark Mellors - Owner
*Martin Lenz - Owner
*Mik Lamming - Trainer

= A Few Reminders =

Congratulations on completing your induction for the CNC Router.

Here are some useful links and further information to help you get going.

General router details can be found here: http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/CNC_Router

Before using the machine please make sure you have read the health and safety notes: http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/CNC_Router#Health_and_Safety

A few reminders:

You must not use the machine if you are the only member in the space.

Router cutters that have bearings on the end - like the one below, can not and must not be used!
<br>
[[File:25845_P.jpg]]

Please supply 50p into the red honesty box if you are using Makespace cutters - this helps us to maintain a supply of good cutters for you to use and goes towards the upkeep of the machine.

Please get in touch with the owners if you have a question or problem: http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/CNC_Router#Owners

We recommend that you check the Makespace google group to see what's going on: https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!forum/cammakespace

Please report any issues to the group here: https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/cammakespace/rkchD7VqM2c%5B1-25%5D

Please leave the router in a clean state when you have finished - Be awesome - leave it better than you found it :)

Be safe and enjoy.

= Trained Users =

See: [[Equipment/CNC_Router/Trained_Users|Trained Users]]

= Training Cheat Sheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the CNC Router Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

'''Introduction/walk around'''
* Extraction
* Water Cooler system
* Machine Bed
* Router – Collets - Cutters (Mention 50p for maintenance costs if using Makespace Cutters)
* Gantry/Moving Parts
* PC & Software Locations
* Material Storage
* Hand controller -[[Equipment/CNC_Router/Hand_Controller|Hand Controller Guide]]

'''Health & Safety'''

Risks
* Dust
* Noise
* Fire
* Trapping
* Burns
* Loss of Limb or Digit

PPE

* Ear Defenders
* Safety Goggles
* Common Sense Hat!

'''Machine Startup & Positioning'''
* Check handset is attached properly
* Power up main switch
* Check Water Pump
* Check extractor is functional and not full
* Check handset says “Datum?” (if not, reset E.Stop)
* Click “OK” ensuring no obstructions. (Machine will go to X0 Y0 Z+Max)
* Check spindle is safe and functioning correctly.

'''Job Setup – Demo piece'''
* Workholding, Clamping and work positioning
* Tool Selection & Collet sizes
* Zero work
* Load G-Code directly onto USB stick from PC(no sub-directories)
* Place USB stick into Hand Controller
* Select and run job at desired feedrates

Do Not Leave The Machine Unattended While Running A Job! However Long It Takes.

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

Task
* Make a.....

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed to routing (watch carefully all steps)
* Ask to stop job/restart, question escalation process

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Add to the trained member list!

== Project Oversight ==

For next 2-3 projects, ensure member will find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes)

Equipment/CNC Router

2018-05-18T15:17:25Z

JWoolf: /* Owners & Trainers */

{{RedTool}}

== WARNING ==

{{Warning|'''There have been problems with the CNC router when used at higher speeds than the manufacturer's recommended maximum of 3000mm/s. Steps can be missed and the height can get wrong, resulting in head crashes.

Users should not exceed the recommended speeds and should wear safety goggles. Using expensive or precious materials in the router is at the user's risk!'''}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / CNC Router

[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg|thumb|460px|right|CNC Router]]

== Summary ==

A CNC router is a computer controlled shaping machine. These are related to the hand held router. Instead of hand held routing, the tool paths can be controlled via computer numerical control. It is a computer-controlled machine for cutting various hard materials, such as wood, composites, aluminum, steel, plastics, and foams. It is one of many kinds of tools that have CNC variants. A CNC router is very similar in concept to a CNC milling machine. The CNC router is controlled by a computer. Coordinates are uploaded into the machine controller from a separate CAD program

* Capacity: 1200 x 1200 x 120mm
* Rate (X,Y): 6000mm/min (Max) 5000mm/min (Working)
* Rate (Z): 30mm/sec
* Spindle Speed: 4500 to 24000rpm
* Mechanical Precision: 0.01mm
* Spindle Power: 1.5KW Variable Speed, Water-cooled
* Blade Diameter: min 3.175mm, max 12.7mm
* Order Format: HPGL, G code, u00, mmg, plt
* Control System: DSP with USB connection

Here are some examples we've made on the CNC router (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:WP_20130509_004.jpg
File:WP_20130624_017.jpg
File:WP_20130625_001.jpg
</gallery>

= Using the CNC Router =
== Owners & Trainers ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the equipment, organising maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the CNC Router are:

* Mark Mellors
*Martin Lenz

Current Trainers:

* Mark Mellors
*Martin Lenz
* Mik Lamming

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the CNC router, please use the mailing list thread:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/rkchD7VqM2c/discussion Log : CNC Router]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE CNC ROUTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/CNC_Router/Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers
</div>

To get trained on the CNC router and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Owners or Trainers.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router/Training|CNC Router Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

The CNC Router is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the CNC Router are:
* '''ONLY USE THE CNC ROUTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE CNC ROUTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''FIRE''' - Cutting with the wrong settings could result in the material igniting.

'''TRAPPING''' - Stand clear of the machine while in motion.

'''DUST''' - Ensure extraction system is working.

'''NOISE''' - Ensure that you wear the correct PPE when working with the machine for prolonged periods.

Full Risk assessment[[File:CNC_Router.pdf ‎]]

== CNC Glossary ==

As with most new ventures into another profession or hobby, there is the need to learn a “new language” and its common abbreviations. We have introduced some of these in the description of the workflow process above. Here we’ll look at some in more detail. These are listed in alphabetical order.

=== 2D/2.5D/3D Toolpaths ===

Depending on the information source, the definitions of 2D, 2.5D and 3D can be quite vague and appear to overlap.

'''2D''' is simple horizontal cuts at a constant Z depth. For example, you cut out letter or a plaque shape to hang on the wall by moving the tool down to a specific depth and tracing the shape of the part you are cutting in 2D.

'''2.5D''' would be a little more complex than 2D as while the tool is cutting, the Z depth would be changing instead of staying constant. Typically this still uses 2D vector data to define the path but the way the tool moves in relation to the 2D data and its form will determine the shape that is cut. The most common example of 2.5D is VCarving. Although this cuts 2D vector shapes, the V-shaped tool “rides” on the edges of the vectors, so as it gets wider it cuts deeper and as the vector get closer together it will lift up in Z.

'''3D'''' These are toolpaths that like 2.5D toolpaths can move simultaneously in all 3 (X, Y and Z) axes however the shape they cut is described by following a 3D computer model and not vectors. They are typically cut with a Ball-Nose (round ended) tool. The tool will go back and forth across the 3D model following the contours of the part similar to an old fashioned copying or digitizing machine. The smoothness of the finished part depends on the Stepover setting in the toolpath as that determines how many times the tool will pass over the model. The size of the tool is also important as the software will only let it cut the detail that the end of the tool can fit into as it traces over the virtual surface. Examples of 3D toolpaths are 3D Rouging and 3D Finishing

=== 3-axis===

A 3-axis CNC machine is one that can move a router bit in the 3 primary directions, X, Y and Z. The image below show 3 views of a typical CNC setup and how the axes are referenced from each viewing direction.

=== CAD ===

CAD has been used as an abbreviation for both “Computer Aided Design” and “Computer Aided Drafting”. Now it has become a generic term in its own right that refers to a software program that can be used to create a 2D or 3D design.

=== CAM ===

When you discuss designing and preparing projects for your CNC machine, the follow-on side of CAD is CAM, which stands for ‘Computer Aided Manufacturing’ or ‘Computer Aided Machining’. This is the part of the process where the geometry developed during the CAD design process are now used to create the instructions that will move your CNC machine to ‘manufacture’ or machine the part.

=== Collet ===

The collet assembly is the component on a router or spindle that holds the router bit securely and consists of a precision collet and a collet nut. The collet is precisely sized to hold the router bit shank and the collet nut applies a compressive, friction fit as it is properly tightened onto the router or spindle shaft. It is very important to keep the collets clean and well maintained and depending on use, they must be periodically replaced.

=== Gantry ===

The gantry is the part of a CNC machine that typically has one of the horizontal axes running along it and also moves along the other horizontal axis to create the X and Y movement for the tool. The Z axis is also typically mounted on the gantry.

=== G-Code ===

This is a generic term for the code which is sent to the machine with the instructions telling it how to move. Or, to put it in our context, the file that is saved from the software using the Post Processor to format it for the CNC machine. In reality it’s a particular type of data that a lot of CNC’s use a variant of – so G-code is not necessarily interchangeable to different machines. The name comes from the fact that many of the codes within in start with a G. For example G01 specifies a Feed Rate move and G00 specifies a Rapid move etc.

=== Pass ===

When you have a toolpath that is too deep, too wide or a combination of both for the router bit to remove all the material at one time, the toolpath is broken up into multiple ‘Passes’ with each pass removing a part of the material.

When the toolpath is too deep, a Pass Depth (see entry below) value for the bit will be set and used to indicate the maximum Z depth the tool should cut on each Pass. The amount of material a tool can remove will be determined by the tooltype, size, material being cut and many other parameters. Tooling manufacturers typically offer recommendations for these values.

=== Post Processor ===

There are hundreds of different brands and models of CNC machines currently in use. When it comes to controlling them, many have a lot in common, but there can and will be differences. So, if you look at this as each machine speaks a slightly different language, there has to be a way for a single CAD/CAM program to speak to each machine and this is accomplished by using an “interpreter” called a Post Processor, also sometimes simply referred to as ‘pp’ or ‘post’.

For example, you design a project to cut an exact size circle out of a piece of material and calculate a toolpath to do that. When you actually save that toolpath so it can be used at your CNC machine, the correct Post Processor will ensure the instructions for cutting that circle are prepared correctly so your CNC machine can read and understand them and accurately cut the circle as you intended.

=== Router Bed or Machine Bed ===

The ‘bed’ identifies the part of a CNC machine where the material being machined is placed and held securely in position. For best results, the bed needs to be flat and sturdy. In most designs the bed is stationary; however there are exceptions to this where the bed moves to provide either the X or Y axis movement.

=== Sacrifice Sheet / Spoilboard ===

The spoilboard is normally a sacrificial sheet of material placed on top of the machine bed and is intended to be replaced as necessary. It protects the machine bed and allows frequent surfacing which will help to keep a truly flat surface to mount material and help maintain accuracy. This allows the stock material to be screwed down to it and the parts drilled and cut all the way through the material thickness.

=== Stepover ===

The Stepover setting found for most router bits allows you to control horizontal movement when machining areas wider than the router bit. Physically, stepover is the distance the center of the bit moves horizontally for each pass.

The Stepover is shown in the programs as both a physical distance (0.025” or 0.5mm for example) and as a percentage of bit diameter (6%, 8%, 50%, etc.). You can enter either value and the software will automatically calculate the other one for you. Typically most users refer to Stepover by its percentage value as it is a simple whole number and can easily be translated to other tool sizes for a particular task, for example when finishing setting the Stepover to be 10% of the ballnose tools diameter normally creates a reasonably finish surface.

=== Toolpath ===

A toolpath is the path created during the CAM part of your project design and represents the instructions your CNC machine will use to make the router bit move to duplicate what you have designed. In the software it is typically displayed as a set of lines which show a virtual picture of the path the tool tip will move along when the toolpath is run on the machine.

=== Vector ===

Vector is the word used to describe a 2D line, arc or curve. A vector can be used to describe almost any 2D shape.

== Instructions ==

[http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf Router Manual]

[http://wiki.makespace.org/File:CNC_Router_step_by_step.pdf Simplified crib sheet]

[[Equipment/CNC_Router/Hand_Controller|Hand Controller Look-up Guide]]

===Setting the Z Origin Using the Z0 Sensor===
''A tool that has an extremely narrow tip may break when it touches the tool sensor depending on which tool is to be used.''

1. Secure the workpiece on the bed, and place the Z0 sensor at the place where you want to set the Z origin on the workpiece. Face the surface of the Z0 sensor without the magnet facing upward.

[[image:Mill_z0.PNG]]

2. Use the handset to move the tool to the position above the sensor.

3. On the handset press OK + 8(Z-0). The tool slowly descend until it contacts the sensor. When the tool rises and stops, the setting operation is complete.

Note: It is important the tool is electrically conductive from tip to shaft, and the sensor is clean. Failure to check will cause damage to the tool and sensor.

4. Remove the sensor from the workpiece to a location where it will not interfere with future cutting operations.

==Software==

The standard software is Vectric's line of CAM software:

===VCarvePro===

[[image:Vcarvepro.png]]

VCarve Pro provides a powerful but intuitive software solution for 2D design and calculation of 2D and 2.5D toolpaths for cutting parts on a CNC Router.

The software can import 2D designs from other programs but also includes a full set of drawing and editing tools with advanced layout options such as True-Shape Nesting. The toolpath options cover all typical 2D routing operations such as Profiling, Pocketing, Auto-Inlays and Drilling as well as 2.5D strategies such as V-Carving, Prism carving, Fluting and even a decorative Texturing strategy. Each toolpath includes appropriate options to customize the settings and provide a high level of control for different types of operation. In addition all toolpaths can be previewed to show just how the part will look when it is actually cut, this allows instant feedback to allow toolpaths to be further optimized.

'''Details''': http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve-pro.htm

'''Training Resources''': http://support.vectric.com/training-material/vcarve-pro

===Cut3D===

[[image:Vectric-cut3d.jpg|266px]]

Cut3D is a dedicated toolpath engine for CNC machining 3D models that have been designed using a 3D CAD or Graphics design product such as AutoCAD, Rhino3D, 3D Studio etc. or scanned using a laser or touch probe device. Cut3D's exceptionally easy to use interface leads you step-by-step through the process of loading a model, setting the size, interactively placing tabs to hold the job in place, calculating single, double or four sided roughing and finishing toolpaths, previewing the results and finally saving the CNC code to run on your machine.

3D Models that are too large / thick to machine because of gantry height, cutter length or limited material thickness can be 'Sliced' into separate pieces. Each slice can then be machined and the complete job assembled.

'''Details''': http://www.vectric.com/products/cut3d.html

'''Training Resources''': http://support.vectric.com/training-material/cut3d

===PhotoVCarve===

[[image:Vectric-photovcarve.gif|266px]]

PhotoVCarve creates lines of grooves that vary in width and depth to represent the detail in a photograph or image. The quality of the finished result is very dependant upon a high level of contrast between the material surface and the machined grooves. This information is very important to remember when cutting designs using the PhotoVCarve software.

PhotoVCarve machines dark areas in a photograph with wide groove and the lighter areas to have narrower ones. The software automatically calculates the toolpaths based on the cutter selected and maximum depth of groove required.

'''Details''': http://www.vectric.com/products/photovcarve.html

'''Training Resources''': http://support.vectric.com/training-material/photovcarve

=== Post Processor for this machine ===

The CNC router controller expects G Code instructions. In the Vectric line of software select 'G-Code Arcs (mm) (*.tap)' as output post processor.

== Tooling ==

=== Router Bits ===

Router bits (or cutters) are the most common type of cutter, they have two or more vertical cutting edges. These are good general purpose cutters that can be found in most DIY shops. They are the same type that you would use in a manual hand held router.

<gallery>
File:WP_20130813_025.jpg
File:WP_20130813_025.jpg
File:WP_20130814_002.jpg
File:WP_20130814_003.jpg
</gallery>

It is important to notice that the cutters are on the edge of the body only, they do not extend to the centre of the cutter. This means the cutter CAN NOT BE USED AS A DRILL. An holes that are made by these sorts of cutters must be made by ramping the cutter to the correct depth in a sloping or spiral motion.

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>NEVER USE ROUTER BITS THAT HAVE BEARINGS.</b> These types of cutters are designed for manual routers where you can feel the feed back of the bearing in contact with the material being cut. A CNC device has no such feedback and will press the bearing into the material has hard as it can until something gives, i.e. the cutter breaks or much worse the spindle breaks. People found using these types of cutters on the CNC router will be BANNED! Just use the version without the bearing.

<gallery>
File:WP_20130813_018.jpg
</gallery>

The cutting edges should always be the lowest part of the cutter.
</div>

=== End mills ===

'''Up Cut and Down Cut'''

Router end mills have two variants, up cut (left) and down cut (right); there is a third type, compression, but they are quite rare.

<gallery>
File:WP_20130813_015.jpg
</gallery>

Most cutters are up cut, which have the cutting service on the top of the flutes and as they rotate lift the chips up and away from the material being cut.

Down cut cutters have the cutting edge on the bottom of the flutes and push chips down towards the material being cut. This has the advantage of pressing the material being cut into the bed of the machine; this is especially useful for thin plastics. The other advantage is the top surface shows far less breakout and splintering, this is a big advantage for materials like laminates.

On image on the left has been cut with an up-cut end mill and the image on the right a down-cut.

<gallery>
File:WP_20130813_005.jpg
File:WP_20130813_007.jpg
</gallery>

NOTE: There is a very big disadvantage to down cut end mills, and that is that they do not clear there chips effectively in blind holes. This means they need larger ramping moves to get to the correct cutting depth and if used in pockets without enough clearance, the friction can lead to burning or melting of the material being cut.

Another down side to down-cut cutters, is that when cutting pockets, the bottom surface will not be as clean as that made with an up-cut cutter, which will do a far better job of clearing the waste chips that rub between the cutter and the material with a down-cut.

== Stock Tooling ==

In order to keep a small stock of cutters for general use, the CNC Router needs to have a means of generating money. Because there is no material provided for use with the CNC Router there is no way to bring in any funds for such things. Therefore, we ask that if you use one of the communal cutters please put 50p into the CNC Router Honesty Box. This will go towards funding for replenishing stock and also for the replacement of the sacrificial bed once it gets worn out. Please email the list if a communal cutter is broken or missing, so that they can replace it with one from stock.

There will likely be 1 or two of each of the following cutters available for use, however please do not count on this being the case:

* 1/8" square cutter - single flute

* 6mm square cutter - 2 flute
* 6mm ball cutter - 2 flute

* 22mm 2 flute straight
* 90deg x 32mm VBit

Some Suppliers are listed below:

== Feeds & Speeds ==

What are feeds and speeds? Why are they important?

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ip2jm_6aUyk&feature=c4-overview&list=UUivA7_KLKWo43tFcCkFvydw Milling machine tutorial - cutter selection, speeds and feeds]

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speeds_and_feeds Wikipedia - Speeds and feeds]

The phrase speeds and feeds (or feeds and speeds) refers to two separate velocities in machine tool practice, cutting speed and feed rate. They are often considered as a pair because of their combined effect on the cutting process. Each, however, can also be considered and analyzed in its own right.

Cutting speed (also called surface speed or simply speed) is the speed difference (relative velocity) between the cutting tool and the surface of the workpiece it is operating on. It is expressed in units of distance along the workpiece surface per unit of time, typically surface feet per minute (sfm) or meters per minute (m/min). Feed rate (also often styled as a solid compound, feedrate, or called simply feed) is the relative velocity at which the cutter is advanced along the workpiece; its vector is perpendicular to the vector of cutting speed. Feed rate units depend on the motion of the tool and workpiece; when the workpiece rotates (e.g., in turning and boring), the units are almost always distance per spindle revolution (inches per revolution [in/rev or ipr] or millimeters per revolution [mm/rev]). When the workpiece does not rotate (e.g., in milling), the units are typically distance per time (inches per minute [in/min or ipm] or millimeters per minute [mm/min]), although distance per revolution or per cutter tooth are also sometimes used.

===Spindle speed quick reference===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!|RPM
!|24000
!|21000
!|18000
!|15000
!|12000
!|9000
|-

!|
|400Hz
|350Hz
|300Hz
|250Hz
|200Hz
|150Hz
|}

===Feed rate quick reference===

{| class="wikitable"
!|100%
!|75%
!|66%
!|50%
!|33%
!|25%
|-
!|6000
|4500
|3960
|3000
|1980
|1500
|-
!|5000
|3750
|3300
|2500
|1650
|1250
|-
!|4000
|3000
|2640
|2000
|1320
|1000
|-
!|3000
|2250
|1980
|1500
|990
|750
|-
!|2500
|1875
|1650
|1250
|825
|625
|-
!|2000
|1500
|1320
|1000
|660
|500
|-
!|1500
|1125
|990
|750
|495
|375
|-
!|1000
|750
|660
|500
|330
|250
|-
!|500
|375
|330
|250
|165
|125
|-
|}

=== Sample feed rates ===

For working out feeds and speeds, recommend http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.

The feeds and speeds below have been tested on our machine. The 3mm cutters were single flute carbide. 2 flute HSS cutters may require different settings to avoid breakages.

{| class="wikitable"
!|MDF
!|1mm deep
!|3mm deep
!|6mm deep
|-
!|3mm Ø
|3000/24Krpm
|3000/24Krpm
|N/A
|-
!|6mm Ø
|3000/24Krpm
|3000/15Krpm
|2000/13Krpm
|-
!|22mm Ø
|3000/5000rpm
|N/A
|N/A
|-
|}

{| class="wikitable"
!|Plywood
!|1mm deep
!|3mm deep
!|6mm deep
|-
!|3mm Ø
|2000/24Krpm
|2000/24Krpm
|N/A
|-
!|6mm Ø
|3000/15Krpm
|3000/15Krpm
|1500/15Krpm
|-
!|22mm Ø
|3000/5Krpm
|N/A
|N/A
|-
|}

Polycarbonate:
300Hz 1600mm/min

Foamed PVC (foamex):
6mm diameter, 10mm deep pass depth, spindle 400Hz (24krpm), feed 9000mm/min.

3mm diameter, 3mm deep pass depth, 400Hz (24krpm), 9000mm/min.

Polyurethane foam:

6mm diameter, full depth pass (30mm+), 400Hz (24krpm), 9000mm/min.

3mm diameter, 6mm deep pass depth, 400Hz (24krpm), 9000mm/min.

Acetal (Delrin):

6mm Cutter, 2mm deep pass depth, spindle 150 - 180Hz, feed 3000mm/min.

1/8th or 3mm cutter, 1.5 - 2mm deep pass depth, spindle 130 - 160Hz, feed 2-3000mm/min.

== Tips & Tricks ==

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the CNC Router is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==
'''Every job'''
* Vacuum cutting dust from bed and around machine
* Sand down high points created on sacrificial bed by cutting/screwing

As required, by users
* Empty extraction bin
* check for blockages in manifold box where extraction pipes meet

'''Monthly'''
* Inspect extraction hoses for splits/ wear
* Clean guide rails (Don't oil them, it makes dust stick)
* Check level, condition and flow of cooling water and replace as necessary
* Inspect sacrificial bed, re-skim or replace as required
* Inspect cable from pendent to router
* Inspect ER11 collet nut for wear
* Inspect auto levelling probe wire
* check collet set for wear/damage
* Check USB socket on pendent and USB memory stick for splits/damage

'''Annual'''
* Check nuts on lead screws for excessive backlash and adjust if required
* Inspect all covers/structure for signs of damage, cracks etc
* Check tightness (or even presence) of screws holding covers in place
* Check CNC electronics (and PC) cabinets for dust build up and vacuum out if required
* Check feet/supports are all taking load and that the structure is level/flat
* Check motor cables aren't wearing/cracking

== Maintenance Log ==

Installed on 9th May 2013.

3/7/13: Lower spindle clamp bolts replaced with longer stainless ones, holes through tapped as original ones had stripped.

23/12/15: complete maintenance checklist completed. controller cable slightly frayed at machine end, collet nut could do with being replaced. otherwise, everything fine.

05/10/16: Changed water in cooling system (to tap water, no algee prevention), spindle is clogged, tried to unblock with wires and air, but no success. ML

05/11/16: Rotated sacrificial bed 180 deg. ML

04/01/17: Checked x-axis after reports that it is not working (see mailing list), all seems to be fine though, testcut without problems, RS & ML

04/01/17: Reset the router handheld controller so that it does not move after the job is finished(reported in mailing list), Menu, DockPosition: Only z-axis up' , ML

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* Cutters
* Sacrificial Bed (1.2m x 1.2m 12mm MDF)
* ER11 collet nut
* controller cable

= Becoming an Owner/Trainer =

Becoming an '''Owner''' of a piece of Makespace equipment means that you will be responsible for the maintenance, upkeep and H&S of that equipment. You will also be responsible for running inductions and keeping the information banks (Wiki/Forum/Google Groups) maintained.

A '''Trainer''' is responsible for running inductions only but will be required to understand how the machine works in order to pass on the relevant skills. A trainer will not be required to maintain the machine but would be expected to keep an eye on its status and report any issues if they develop (as would be expected of any user).

== Steps to becoming an Owner or Trainer ==

* Step 1: Contact a current Owner who will talk you through the various responsibilities. [http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/CNC_Router#Owners Owners] or Forum: [http://makespace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=89 here]
* Step 2: Sign up to a 'Train the Trainer Training' session on Meetup. It is likely one will need to be set up specially in order for you to sign up but the owner you spoke to should take care of this.
* Step 3: Complete the training to the satisfaction of the Owner/s running the sessions.
* Step 4: Have your name added to the Trainers list and set up your first solo induction session.
* Step 5: Once you are a Trainer you are eligible to become an Owner of the CNC Router. To become an Owner will simply require one further meeting with one of the current owners. This will simply be to walk through the requirements and techniques of maintaining the machine along with any other responsibilites. If the other owners are happy, you can add your name to the [http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/CNC_Router#Owners Owners] list.

== Train the Trainer Training ==

The first session will be fairly informal, with a look to getting more familiar with the machine and how it operates. We will walk through the Induction cheat-sheet (located on the Wiki) and discuss methods of giving attendees the information they need to use the CNC Router safely.

The follow up sessions will be arranged during the first session. The second session will include a brief look at the software, Meetup and a full dry-run induction. The third session will be an observed induction where you will be left to train 2 people (with input if necessary). Once complete you will be free to arrange as many induction sessions as you are happy to do. Although you wont be an owner of the CNC Router, if you would like to become one at this point please ask.

= Further Information =

== Hardware ==

=== Controller ===
[[File:MPC6610 CNC Router Manual v1.0-En.pdf]]

<gallery>
File:CNC_Router_controller_1.jpg
File:CNC_Router_controller_2.jpg
File:WP 20151230 18 00 14 Pro.jpg
</gallery>

=== Z-Axis Stepper Driver ===

[[File:M542-05m.pdf‎]]

=== X and Y Axis Stepper Driver ===

[[File:MA860Hm.pdf]]

Default switch settings
* 1 - On
* 2 - Off
* 3 - On
* 4 - Off
* 5 - Off
* 6 - Off
* 7 - On
* 8 - On

=== Y Axis Stepper motor ===

86BYGH450A-06 (NEMA34 Hybid Stepper Motor, MAX torque: 495 oz-in)

* Insulation Resistant - 500V DC 100MΩ Min
* Insulation Strength - 50Hz 1Minute 500V Min
* Ambient Temperature - -20~+50 degree
* Temperature Rise - 80 Max.
* Radial Play - 0.02mm Max.
* End Play - 0.1-0.3mm
* Model: 85BYGH450A-06
* Motor dimension: 85*85*75mm
* Current/phase: 4.0A
* Voltage/phase: 2.0V
* Inductance/phase: 2.3+/-20%mH
* Resistance/phase: 0.5+/-10%ohm
* Holding torque: 3.5 N. M
* Shaft diameter: 13 mm
* Shaft length: 31.50mm
* Leading wires: 4 leading wires

=== Spindle Motor Inverter ===
YTB-S2 Series Yatai frequency converter 220v single phase 1.5Kw

== Installation ==

Installed on 9th May 2013.

<gallery>
File:Photo_1.JPG
File:WP_20130509_005.jpg
</gallery>

== Purchase ==
Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£?????)

== Notes ==

Guide Sheet:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cYGz0wnUzvrxfbn3HMWYuXaHnLN8-EYv9svpXcCYbBU/edit?usp=sharing

http://www.shopbottools.com/mProducts/prSstandard.htm

== Files ==
CNC Router Door [[http://wiki.makespace.org/images/9/9a/CNC_router_door.zip]]

Equipment/CNC Model Mill/Training

2018-05-18T15:13:29Z

JWoolf: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]] / Training

= Roland Mill Training =

This page documents the process for being trained to use the, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

Training on the mill is run by the mill Owners. The mill Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the mill, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the mill.

== Booking ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots if needed, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/msg/cammakespace/Nvf0GPRhLAY/fkvHEQ2sDz4J Training : Roland Mill]

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to four at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day

= Trained Users =

The following members of Makespace are owners of the mill, so are trained to use and teach use of the Mill:
* Paul Osborn
* Peter Knight

The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the Mill (note, they are not qualified to train others however):
LIST MOVED TO PRIVATE LOCATION FOR GDPR

= Training Cheatsheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the Mill Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

'''Mill Basics'''
* Cover the basic mechanics of an 3 axis mill.
* Explain the difference between machine co-ordinates and user co-ordinates
* Cover the different types of cutters, ball, square etc.
* Explain collets and how to change the cutter.
* Cover types of materials than can be cut on the mill, wood, plastics, '''NO METAL'''
* Cover how to fix work piece to bed.

'''VPanel'''
* Show how to move cutter around in X, Y and Z free hand
* Show how to change the rapid speed, and explain difference between low/high and steps
* Show how to set XYZ origins.
* Show how to set Z origin using sensor.
* Show how to move to set co-ordinates and make relative moves.
* Explain how to switch to G-Code load G-Code files

'''Click Mill'''
* Explain how to do basic operations such as pocket and surface.
* Cover the basic cutting parameters, such as feed rates, spindle speed, cutting in amount and path interval.

'''SRP Player'''
* File formats that can be loaded (STL/IGES/Rhino)
* Rotating imported model to correct orientation.
* Scale model if needed.
* Cover type of milling
** Surface finish
** Flat / curved
** What cutting top or top and bottom means
** Adding supports
* Explain creation of tool paths
* Set the size of the work piece and material
* Create initial tool path
* Show cutting preview and explain how it can show cutting errors by flicking between model and preview.
* Show how to edit cutting paths, change tools and cutting area and depth.
* Show margins and slope and re-generate tool paths.
* Open and show the sample project 'thing.srp' as an example of how tool paths can be tweaked to reduce cutting times and optimize support material.

'''Cut 2D'''
* Open sample project to show basics of tool paths and 3D preview.
* Refer people to the videos on the Cut2D website.

'''Q and A'''

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

* Power machine on
* Change the current tool, demonstrating understand of the collet system and correct positioning of cutter in collet. Ensure that the cutter is not dropped.
* Position the cutter over the XY origin and set as origin in user co-ordinates.
* Set the Z origin using the sensor.
* Using the ClickMill software cut a 20x20mm pocket 5mm deep offset by 5,5mm from the origin.
* Pause the job midway through, then restart it.
* Clean machine.
* Turn off.

== Project Oversight ==

For next 2-3 projects or until they are comfortable, projects should be machine out of soft materials only such as foam, that way if a mistake is made no damage will be caused to the machine and an expensive block of material lost. If possible the newly trained user should find another more experienced trained user to support them (second pair of eyes) in their first couple of projects, or any time they are unsure.

'''If in doubt ask for advice!!'''