Makespace - User contributions [en]

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2018-03-14T20:18:00Z

Kim SJ: /* Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits */

[[File:bbbbb.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Big box!]]
(see also [[Arduino_and_Cake|The Arduino and Cake main page]])
= Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits =

We have a box of bits containing Arduinos for use in the space along with an assortment of sensors, motors, lights and other things you might need to make up a project. It lives in... (to be confirmed, currently it lives in my kitchen, obviously that won't be its final location!)

This page exists to catalogue the contents of the box along with any notes on how to use each modules, including links to Arduino libraries, datasheets, photos showing pinouts and suchlike. Basically if you've figured out how to use a module through extensive googling and experimentation here is where you can share that knowledge with everyone else. Use your signatures to claim credit!

== Policies ==

This is not primarily intended to be used as stock for people's projects, rather it's there to provide a lending library of parts for use at events such as the [[Arduino and Cake]] sessions and [[Family Makers]]. That said, none of the parts are particularly expensive and we try to have a reasonable number of them so if you really need something for a project right now, aren't going to be taking the last one of something and are prepared to provide a replacement in non ludicrous time that's probably fine. If unsure ask on the mailing list! Most things here have been bought from sellers from the far East on eBay, so while they're cheap the lead times are often quite lengthy.

There's a section at the end of this page for requests - if there's something you'd like to have access to and which is of general use (i.e. not for just one project you have in mind) add some details and we'll see whether we can source it at an appropriate price. If something goes wrong and the magic white smoke escapes from something please make a note in the section for the component or module concerned, that way we know it's broken and can either fix or replace it (and tell everyone how to avoid the same thing happening again)

== What's in the Box? ==

Contents of the box, both current and planned. Things that have arrived and are ready for use are marked in {{Done|this colour}}. We need photos and documentation for everything on this list!

{|class="wikitable" style="background-color: #fff"
!colspan="4"|Spotter's Guide
|-
{{Cell|max7219matrix.jpg|Max7219 based dot matrix display}}
{{Cell|max7219segment.jpg|Max7219 based seven segment LED display}}
{{Cell|steppermotor.jpg|5v stepper motor}}
{{Cell|steppermotordriver.jpg|Driver board for 5v stepper motor}}
|-
{{Cell2|nrf24l01.jpg|NRF24L01 radio modules}}
{{Cell2|irbeambreak.jpg|IR beam break detector}}
{{Cell2|dht11.jpg|DHT11 temperature / humidity sensor}}
{{Cell2|barometric.jpg|Barometric pressure sensor}}
|-
{{Cell|deadservo.jpg|Geared 6v motor (ex servo)}}
{{Cell|bagofleds.jpg|Assorted pink, green, orange and blue LEDs}}
{{Cell|mpu6050.jpg|MPU6050 six axis motion sensor}}
{{Cell|arduinonano.jpg|Arduino nano v3}}
|-
{{Cell2|nanoethernet.jpg|Arduino nano ethernet shield}}
{{Cell2|lcddisplay.jpg|Blue LCD display}}
{{Cell2|9gservo.jpg|9g servo and accessories}}
{{Cell2|ultrasoundranger.jpg|Ultrasonic rangefinder board}}
|-
{{Cell|hbridge.jpg|Dual H-bridge module}}
{{Cell|cablesoflurve.jpg|Cables of lurve}}

|}

=== Arduinos ===

;{{Done|6x Arduino Nano v3}}
: Breadboard compatible Arduinos with ATMega328 processors. Note that the 3.3v rail is driven from the FTDI chip (the part that interfaces with USB) so is only available when powered through the USB cable (in other cases use a 3.3v regulator). If supplying external power remember to use the VIn pin and not the 5v one, even if you think you have a regulated power supply.

=== Sensors and Input Devices ===

;{{Done|3x DHT11 temperature and humidity Sensors}}
: These modules break out the three usable pins on the DHT11 sensors

;{{Done|MPU6050 based 6 axis motion sensor board}}
: I2C based motion processor, contains a 3 axis gyroscope in conjunction with a 3 axis linear accelerometer and an embedded DSP

;{{Done|1x Barometric pressure sensor board}}
: Not tested yet, but believed to be a [http://learn.adafruit.com/bmp085/using-the-bmp085-api-v2 BMP085], which if so is capable of resolving pressure differences corresponding to about 20cm of altitude, very nifty!

;{{Done|Ultrasonic rangefinders}}
: Modules with an ultrasonic emitter / receiver pair and the logic to calculate distance to a reflecting object based on timing.

=== Motors and other Output Devices ===

;{{Done|12x Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
: H-Bridge modules, used to interface to high power devices including motors and drive them from the logic level signals on the Arduino.

;{{Done|1x hacked HiTec HS-625MG}}
: A tough servo with the servo bits removed, now just acts as a high quality electric motor with a gearbox. Drive at 5-6v and use conventional PWM / H-Bridge to alter its speed and direction.

;{{Done|10x 9g servo motors}}
: Basic servo motors. Use the Servo or modified Servo2 library (the latter for when you need to drive more than a couple of servos at a time from the Arduino)

;{{Done|4x 5V stepper motors with driver boards}}
: Document how to make them work here (Martin?) - there's more info on these exact boards along with example code [http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/SmallSteppers here], yet to be tried but they look identical!

=== Communications ===

;{{Done|10x NRF24L01 Radio Modules}}
: Short range radio modules, use the mIRF library. (edit - we've lost one, there are now nine of them....)

;{{Done|2x Arduino nano ethernet shields}}
: Stackable modules providing an ethernet jack

Useful library here: https://github.com/ntruchsess/arduino_uip

To use:

cd [path to Arduino distribution]\libraries
git clone https://github.com/ntruchsess/arduino_uip UIPEthernet

There are examples included, which you'll want to tinker with to suit your network.

=== LEDs and displays ===

;{{Done|High brightness LEDs}}
: 20 each of four different colours (pink, green, blue and orange) 5mm LEDs, remember to use current limiting resistors or a constant current source when driving them!

;{{Done|4x LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
: Dot matrix displays, single colour with drivers

<span style='font-family: monospace; display: block; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 6px; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;background-color: #f9f9f9;'>/* MAX7219 Example  
 * Tom Oinn, 16th September 2013 
 * Drive our dot matrix and 7+1 segment displays using the LedControl  
 * library, download from http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LedControl 
 */ 
#include <LedControl.h> 
 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'DIN' on the module */ 
int DATA = 5; 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'CS' on the module */ 
int CS = 6; 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'CLK' on the module */ 
int CLOCK = 7; 
 
/*  
 * Number of displays connected, more displays can be chained 
 * together by connecting the (hopefully) obvious pins. Displays 
 * are numbered with display 1 being at the end of the chain if 
 * you have more than one. 
 */ 
int DISPLAYS = 3; 
 
/*  
 * Create a new LedControl object, passing in the data,  
 * clock, chip select and number of displays  
 */ 
LedControl lc = LedControl(DATA, CLOCK, CS, DISPLAYS); 
 
/* Initialise the displays */ 
void setup() { 
  for (int n = 0; n < DISPLAYS; n++) { 
    lc.shutdown(n,false); 
    lc.setIntensity(n,8); 
    lc.clearDisplay(n); 
  } 
} 
 
/* Used to allow the sin wave to animate */ 
float offset = 0.0; 
 
void loop() { 
  /* Iterate over the total number of rows, i.e. DISPLAYS * 8 */ 
  for (int i = 0 ; i < DISPLAYS <<3; i++) { 
    /* For each row work out where we want the dot for a sin wave */ 
    int shift = (int)((sin(offset + ((float)(i)*0.6))+1.0)*4.0); 
    /* 
     * Set the row to be that value, we'd use columns but our 
     * are the wrong shape on the boards to do that. Columns would 
     * be more efficient and require fewer shift operations internally 
     */ 
    lc.setRow(i>>3, i & 7, 1<<shift);  
  } 
  /* Increment the offset, add a delay and go around again */ 
  offset += PI / 16; 
  delay(50); 
} 


;{{Done|2x Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
: Standard 'calculator style' seven segment displays in a module of eight of them with associated driver circuitry.
: [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/COM-09622-MAX7219-MAX7221.pdf MAX7219 Datasheet]

;{{Done|4x LCD 20x4 character displays}}
: LCD character displays, serial protocol (probably!) to drive them.

=== Everything else ===

;{{Done|2x IR correlation modules}}
: IR beam break sensors with amplifiers to provide a clean signal. Not tested yet!

;10x Playstation style joysticks
: Analogue joysticks with an embedded press button

;{{Done|Male to male and male to female jumper leads}}
: A load of long jump leads with pins and sockets (depending on type) to make it easier to interface to modules such as the NRF24L which have otherwise awkward pin layouts and can't be directly connected to a breadboard. Update - these are now here, and are so full of lurve that they're unsafe to use unless you are singing 'The Power of Love' by Huey Lewis and the News while doing so. This will be enforced.

== Requests ==

Put your requests for parts here...

At the moment I think we could do with some regular DC motors, some switches, potentiometers, piezo speakers and battery packs (ideally with a few regulator boards capable of providing clean 3.3v, 5v and possibly 12v feeds from the same). We can make the boards, potentially. Even better for power would be a few LiPo packs, again with regulators and suitable chargers.

Arduino and Cake

2018-03-14T20:16:07Z

Kim SJ: /* Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits (BBBBB) */

[[File:P1100161.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Cake!]]
[[File:P1100164.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Arduino!]]
[[File:P1100162.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Happy Hacking!]]
[[File:P1100160.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The temperature sensor, it lives!]]
[[File:P1100163.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Step step step...]]

= Arduino and Cake =

This is a page of information for the (hopefully) regular 'Arduino and Cake' event we run at Makespace. This is an evening where we get together in the space to learn and hack on projects involving the Arduino and similar microcontrollers. As the name suggests, there's also cake!

If you're a complete beginner to microcontrollers (tiny, very cheap computers without an operating system, files, display, keyboard...) this is a great opportunity to come and play with them. Experts also very welcome, in fact we need you to help the new people! Possible things you can do with an Arduino (a particularly easy to use microcontroller board) range from simple flashing lights up to acting as the brains of an autonomous flying robot, managing your hydroponic gardening project or tweeting the current temperature of your hot water tank. This get-together is intended to help those of us for whom imagination exceeds expertise (that is to say, pretty much everyone I know), let's build cool things together :)

== Merger with Raspberry Pi and home automation group ==

Some time around 2015, the Arduino and Cake sessions stalled, and were subsumed into the Tuesday Raspberry Pi meetings.

== New Sessions for 2014 - Return of the Cake ==

After almost a year we're back, more cake, more flashing lights, more robots, but with no more clue or organisational skills! There are four events scheduled, culminating in one just before our [http://basebot.org/ robot] has to be ready for its competitive debut at the [http://piwars.org PiWars] event on the 6th of December (anyone who'd like to join us with that robot challenge is more than welcome!).

Meetup pages for the events are as follows, all are 7pm to 10pm in the classroom:

# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410302/ Wed 12th November]
# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410332/ Thu 20th November]
# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410402/ Fri 28th November]
# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410442/ Thu 4th December] - Note change of date from Friday 5th!

== Older Sessions ==

The plan is to have this as regularly as possible, varying the day around in case people can't make a particular day of the week.

# Our first session, with all levels of experience from complete novices to expert embedded programmers. Everyone paired up, with beginners and experts working together; judging from the happy buzz of making noises (both the noise of making, and the making of noises - we had buzzers!) it worked pretty well. The meetup page for the first go is [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/130569572/ on meetup here]
# The second one was on the 8th of August; meetup event [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/132710342/ here], big copies of the photos (which are lurking on the right hand side of this very page) [http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomoinn/sets/72157634991866826/ here] :) Some of the bits for the Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits arrived, temperature and humidity sensors and stepper motor drivers yielded to sugar driven curiosity.
# The third was on the 16th August, slightly slower mostly as was distracted wiring cables but we made the dot matrix displays work (mostly) and Martin hacked some more on his sky tracking camera mount. Meetup event page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/134508292/ here]
# The fourth was on the 28th August, no robots as we had some issues with the new Arduinos (it turned out later that they didn't have bootloaders, now fixed). The meetup event was [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/135690182/ here]
# The fith was in September 19th, meetup event was [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/140024592/ here]

Next meeting is Friday 25th October. Meetup page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/146064672/ here] - sign up! Bring cake! Bring friends! (particularly friends with cake) Make bleepy flashing things that run around the room!

== Helpful links ==

Arduino home page : [http://www.arduino.cc/ www.arduino.cc] 
A bunch of useful little circuits to play with: [http://www.pighixxx.com/abc-arduino-basic-connections/ Arduino Basic Connections]

== Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits (BBBBB) ==

See [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]] for more information

We've had approval to buy some bits and pieces for people to play with at this event, and generally within Makespace so I've done an eBay dive and ordered the following, these will arrive sometime over the next month or so:

# {{Done|80 high brightness LEDs (20 each of orange, green, blue and pink!)}}
# {{Done|4 LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Ethernet shields for the Arduino Nano}}
# {{Done|4 LCD 20x4 character displays}}
# {{Done|8 Motion sensors (6 degrees of freedom MPU6050 based with 3 axis gyro and 3 axis accelerometer)}}
# {{Done|6 Arduino Nano v3 boards (ATMega328, mounts on a breadboard)}}
# {{Done|12 Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
# {{Done|3 Temperature / Relative humidity sensor modules}}
# {{Done|2 IR correlation sensor modules (the kind where you have a beam which outputs a signal when broken, good for detecting rotation etc)}}
# {{Done|10 Small servo motors (9g plastic type)}}
# {{Done|6 Ultrasonic rangefinder modules, detect bounce from around 20cm to 3m}}
# {{Done|4 Stepper motors with driver modules, 5v supply}}
# {{Done|1 Barometric pressure sensor module}}
# 10 Playstation style joysticks, the little analogue ones with a built in pushbutton on breakout boards
# {{Done|10 NRF24L01 radio modules, short (~100m) range radio modules capable of transmitting packets of 3 bytes at around 2Mbits/second under ideal conditions}}
# {{Done|A lot of somewhat longer jumper leads (20cm and 30cm) both male to male and male to female, the latter being particularly useful for connecting to the radio modules as they have a non-breadboard-friendly pin layout (or we can make boards with the PCB mill)}}

Total budget for all the above including shipping is 270GBP (you get a lot of electronics for you money when buying from the far East!)

As and when these appear at my house I'll bring them in and add them to the BBBBB - I'm planning to buy a decent size box with compartments to keep these in, both as convenient access and as a way to monitor attrition (these are cheap, but the cheapness comes with long lead times). These bits will be for use at Makespace, rather than for consumption but as long as we have enough items we can be flexible on that; I think if someone has ordered a Nano, say, there's no reason we can't lend them one of the kit ones while they wait for it to turn up.

'''Update''' - we now have the box and some of the bits, I'm marking bits which have arrived and are now in the box in {{Done|this colour}} in the list above. At the moment the box is waiting to be documented and have the components properly marked, it'll then be left in Makespace and hopefully its contents won't evaporate too fast!

'''Update 14th August 2013''' - The BBBBB has its own wiki page at [[Arduino and Cake/Big Box]] where we'll try to document everything as it arrives. Add information to that page if you find something interesting about a part we have, it's also the place to put requests for components and modules.

'''Update 20th August 2013''' - More bits have arrived, we're almost complete! The next session should result in robots, or I'll be severely displeased.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 10:22, 20 August 2013 (BST)

== Projects ==

Got an interesting project or a project idea? Add it here.

=== Vehicle monitor / heating controller ===

I've re-wired my Land Rover, using a star topology, with a big central "ganglion" which almost all the wires run to and from. There's an extra wire coming from each connection, that will go to a board of LEDs and voltage dividers, the latter feeding into an Arduino Mega, which will monitor just about everything, and display information on a small LCD panel.

I'm also planning to make a motorized heater control system (moving flaps to direct air from an Eberspacher) and the valve motors will be driven from relays on the Arduino.

And there'll be a GPS/GSM security unit, and eventually a Linux board (probably Pandaboard) running navigation software. And later on, I hope, an electric motor to drive the extra axle I added. The Arduino Mega will route data between all these points, with its multiple hardware UARTS, as well as sending out information it converts locally from its own inputs.

I expect the software will be a main loop that polls all UARTs for incoming information, all wiring lines for changes from their previous state, all heating valve position sensors for whether they've reached the right position, all pedals for information to send to the traction motor controller when fitted, and does the associated actions (for example, NMEA sentences from the GPS get forwarded to the Linux board for navigation and are also used to display the time on the LCD, heating switches update the desired positions for flap valves).

[[User:JCGS|JCGS]] 15:00, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Quadcopter ===

Because everyone loves autonomous flying robots surrounded by razor sharp rotating propellers, right?

A friend and I are working on a full self build of a quad rotor, we have the airframe, motors, props, speed controllers and an arduino with a combined gyro / accelerometer mounted. We just need to add batteries, wireless comms and software. I don't know whether I can persuade Si to come along to this meeting, he's not a member, but that's one of the things I'm playing with at the moment. I'm using the MPU6050 and PID libraries to manage the feedback between the accelerometer and the speed controllers in an attempt to get a stable hover mode, and the NRF24L01 as the radio module.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Bottle rocket telemetry ===

The family makers are making bottle rockets, I thought it'd be cool to try to make a telemetry module that would tell them how high they'd gone and render a 3d trace of the trajectory using either Processing or WebGL. The main challenge here is to get the circuitry small enough and tough enough to be carried by the rockets and then survive the return to ground level! The second issue is power, I have a LiPo battery and charger so should just be a case of a 3.3v regulator but maybe it needs a boost converter, not really my area of expertise so I'd really like some help there.

At the moment I'm interested in using an ATTiny85 (8 pin dip package MCU) as an Arduino, using the MPU6050 gyro / accelerometer and an XBee v2 radio - I'd use the NRF24 radio but I think it needs more pins than I have available on the ATTiny. Another option would be to use a rather more sophisticated Arduino pro mini, more pins means the NRF radio would be an option which is much cheaper than the XBee modules.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== I2C plant moisture sensors ===

Program an ATTiny85 as an I2C slave, embedding it onto a circuit board etched to work as a capacitive moisture sensor. Use Arduino nano with ethernet shield as an I2C master to then monitor the moisture levels in my various outdoor plant pots and tweet when they're getting too dry.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Breadboard prototype of a 1D Pong Game ===

The idea is to prototype a simple 1D pong game (see [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgQg1DVY4Xc YouTube]) on Arduino or other microcontroller.

Features:
*Some kind of startup animation (similar to the YouTube video)
*A scoreboard or something similar. Based maybe on a segmented display or LCD.
*SOUNDS! :-)
*Perhaps some different game modes, maybe "powerups" of some kind?

Eventually I would like this to be the start of a '''MUCH''' larger version of the game (but that's for the future ;-))

--[[User:DannyG|DannyG]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Self-levelling camera gimbal ===

One popular use of quadcopters is aerial photography/videography, but for this you ideally need a stabilised camera mounting. It's relatively easy to fabricate a two-axis gimbal for a small camera like a GoPro, driven by servos, which can hold itself level using readings from a gyro/accelerometer board.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Barn door sky tracker ===
* Goal: take long exposure photos of the sky.
* Problem: the sky rotates over the course of a long exposure.
* Solution: make a motorised mount which rotates your camera at the same rate.

I'm aiming to build a simple "barn door" mount (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker) to enable me to take long exposure sky photos. At its simplest this is two hinged pieces of wood connected by a threaded rod which you turn slowly to increase the angle at the hinge. I'd like to drive this with a stepper motor so it can be left running, and ideally let the Arduino do some of the maths to compensate for the changing geometry of the mount.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Electricity monitor and TRIAC based resistive load driver ===

I need to modulate a large resistive heating load on AC with a TRIAC: whole cycle and half cycle burst fire with some supervisory decision making process to make it comply with the EMC directives. I also need to monitor the power delivered by integrating current and voltage over the waveform and integrating the lot. It would be useful to estimate the supply impedance and/or internal resistance of the load using the same hardware. A lot of this is similar to work done on the Open Energy Monitor by the Solar-PV folks trying to game the tax system - with added EMC directives...

[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/]
[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/node/841]

[[User:markocosic|markocosic]] 17:37, 21 August 2013 (BST)

== Custom Arduino IDE Build ==

I'm working on a custom version of the Arduino IDE to, amongst other things, allow us to cut and paste code from the IDE directly into this wiki. I've made that particular change on my own clone of the code, the adventurous can check it out from https://github.com/tomoinn/Arduino/tree/ide-1.5.x; you'll need to do the following (only tested on linux thus far!)


> git clone git@github.com:tomoinn/Arduino.git 
> git checkout ide-1.5.x 
> cd Arduino/build 
> ant run


You should then have a version of the IDE based on version 1.5 but with an extra context menu option 'copy as MediaWiki HTML', if you use this and then copy the clipboard into an editor in our wiki you should get something like the following:

<span style='font-family: monospace; display: block; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 6px; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;background-color: #f9f9f9;'>/* 
  Blink 
 Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second, repeatedly. 
  
 This example code is in the public domain. 
 */ 
 
// Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards. 
// give it a name: 
int led = 13; 
 
// the setup routine runs once when you press reset: 
void setup() { 
  // initialize the digital pin as an output. 
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT); 
} 
 
// the loop routine runs over and over again forever: 
void loop() { 
  digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
  digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
} 


Should make putting example code up easier - I'm also thinking of customizing colours, logo etc to create a makespace edition of the IDE. As and when it becomes a bit more stable I'll start doing proper builds for linux and windows at least. Note that cloning the github repository takes a long time, it's going on for 600Mb of data, potentially you can cut that down by only cloning the ide-1.5.x branch if you're familiar with git.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 14:09, 13 September 2013 (BST)

Equipment

2018-03-14T20:12:34Z

Kim SJ: /* Classroom */

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]

The equipment you can find in Makespace.

== Using our Equipment ==

There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.

Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Honesty boxes]].

[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.

Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.

'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].

== The Workshop ==

* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe - Myford]]
* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]]
* Metalwork Benches
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]
* Woodwork Benches
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]]
* [[Equipment/Router|Router and router table]]

== The Space ==

* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer_SLA|3D Printer (SLA)]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill|PCB Mill]]
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
* General Tools
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]
* [[Equipment/Plotter|HP 750C A0 Plotter]]
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]
* [[Equipment/Computer_CAD_Workstation|CAD Workstation]]

== Craft area ==
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* large table for cutting or working at
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]
* PC with CAD software, scanner and link to Vinyl cutter
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]

== Classroom ==
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]
== Corridor Cupboards ==
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]

== Proposals and Notes ==

* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]
* [[Equipment/3D Scanner|3D Scanner]]

== Related ==
* [[OwnersPage|List of owners and their duties]]
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2018-03-14T20:05:26Z

Kim SJ: added link to MAX7219 datasheet

[[File:bbbbb.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Big box!]]
= Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits =

We have a box of bits containing Arduinos for use in the space along with an assortment of sensors, motors, lights and other things you might need to make up a project. It lives in... (to be confirmed, currently it lives in my kitchen, obviously that won't be its final location!)

This page exists to catalogue the contents of the box along with any notes on how to use each modules, including links to Arduino libraries, datasheets, photos showing pinouts and suchlike. Basically if you've figured out how to use a module through extensive googling and experimentation here is where you can share that knowledge with everyone else. Use your signatures to claim credit!

== Policies ==

This is not primarily intended to be used as stock for people's projects, rather it's there to provide a lending library of parts for use at events such as the [[Arduino and Cake]] sessions and [[Family Makers]]. That said, none of the parts are particularly expensive and we try to have a reasonable number of them so if you really need something for a project right now, aren't going to be taking the last one of something and are prepared to provide a replacement in non ludicrous time that's probably fine. If unsure ask on the mailing list! Most things here have been bought from sellers from the far East on eBay, so while they're cheap the lead times are often quite lengthy.

There's a section at the end of this page for requests - if there's something you'd like to have access to and which is of general use (i.e. not for just one project you have in mind) add some details and we'll see whether we can source it at an appropriate price. If something goes wrong and the magic white smoke escapes from something please make a note in the section for the component or module concerned, that way we know it's broken and can either fix or replace it (and tell everyone how to avoid the same thing happening again)

== What's in the Box? ==

Contents of the box, both current and planned. Things that have arrived and are ready for use are marked in {{Done|this colour}}. We need photos and documentation for everything on this list!

{|class="wikitable" style="background-color: #fff"
!colspan="4"|Spotter's Guide
|-
{{Cell|max7219matrix.jpg|Max7219 based dot matrix display}}
{{Cell|max7219segment.jpg|Max7219 based seven segment LED display}}
{{Cell|steppermotor.jpg|5v stepper motor}}
{{Cell|steppermotordriver.jpg|Driver board for 5v stepper motor}}
|-
{{Cell2|nrf24l01.jpg|NRF24L01 radio modules}}
{{Cell2|irbeambreak.jpg|IR beam break detector}}
{{Cell2|dht11.jpg|DHT11 temperature / humidity sensor}}
{{Cell2|barometric.jpg|Barometric pressure sensor}}
|-
{{Cell|deadservo.jpg|Geared 6v motor (ex servo)}}
{{Cell|bagofleds.jpg|Assorted pink, green, orange and blue LEDs}}
{{Cell|mpu6050.jpg|MPU6050 six axis motion sensor}}
{{Cell|arduinonano.jpg|Arduino nano v3}}
|-
{{Cell2|nanoethernet.jpg|Arduino nano ethernet shield}}
{{Cell2|lcddisplay.jpg|Blue LCD display}}
{{Cell2|9gservo.jpg|9g servo and accessories}}
{{Cell2|ultrasoundranger.jpg|Ultrasonic rangefinder board}}
|-
{{Cell|hbridge.jpg|Dual H-bridge module}}
{{Cell|cablesoflurve.jpg|Cables of lurve}}

|}

=== Arduinos ===

;{{Done|6x Arduino Nano v3}}
: Breadboard compatible Arduinos with ATMega328 processors. Note that the 3.3v rail is driven from the FTDI chip (the part that interfaces with USB) so is only available when powered through the USB cable (in other cases use a 3.3v regulator). If supplying external power remember to use the VIn pin and not the 5v one, even if you think you have a regulated power supply.

=== Sensors and Input Devices ===

;{{Done|3x DHT11 temperature and humidity Sensors}}
: These modules break out the three usable pins on the DHT11 sensors

;{{Done|MPU6050 based 6 axis motion sensor board}}
: I2C based motion processor, contains a 3 axis gyroscope in conjunction with a 3 axis linear accelerometer and an embedded DSP

;{{Done|1x Barometric pressure sensor board}}
: Not tested yet, but believed to be a [http://learn.adafruit.com/bmp085/using-the-bmp085-api-v2 BMP085], which if so is capable of resolving pressure differences corresponding to about 20cm of altitude, very nifty!

;{{Done|Ultrasonic rangefinders}}
: Modules with an ultrasonic emitter / receiver pair and the logic to calculate distance to a reflecting object based on timing.

=== Motors and other Output Devices ===

;{{Done|12x Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
: H-Bridge modules, used to interface to high power devices including motors and drive them from the logic level signals on the Arduino.

;{{Done|1x hacked HiTec HS-625MG}}
: A tough servo with the servo bits removed, now just acts as a high quality electric motor with a gearbox. Drive at 5-6v and use conventional PWM / H-Bridge to alter its speed and direction.

;{{Done|10x 9g servo motors}}
: Basic servo motors. Use the Servo or modified Servo2 library (the latter for when you need to drive more than a couple of servos at a time from the Arduino)

;{{Done|4x 5V stepper motors with driver boards}}
: Document how to make them work here (Martin?) - there's more info on these exact boards along with example code [http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/SmallSteppers here], yet to be tried but they look identical!

=== Communications ===

;{{Done|10x NRF24L01 Radio Modules}}
: Short range radio modules, use the mIRF library. (edit - we've lost one, there are now nine of them....)

;{{Done|2x Arduino nano ethernet shields}}
: Stackable modules providing an ethernet jack

Useful library here: https://github.com/ntruchsess/arduino_uip

To use:

cd [path to Arduino distribution]\libraries
git clone https://github.com/ntruchsess/arduino_uip UIPEthernet

There are examples included, which you'll want to tinker with to suit your network.

=== LEDs and displays ===

;{{Done|High brightness LEDs}}
: 20 each of four different colours (pink, green, blue and orange) 5mm LEDs, remember to use current limiting resistors or a constant current source when driving them!

;{{Done|4x LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
: Dot matrix displays, single colour with drivers

<span style='font-family: monospace; display: block; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 6px; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;background-color: #f9f9f9;'>/* MAX7219 Example  
 * Tom Oinn, 16th September 2013 
 * Drive our dot matrix and 7+1 segment displays using the LedControl  
 * library, download from http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LedControl 
 */ 
#include <LedControl.h> 
 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'DIN' on the module */ 
int DATA = 5; 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'CS' on the module */ 
int CS = 6; 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'CLK' on the module */ 
int CLOCK = 7; 
 
/*  
 * Number of displays connected, more displays can be chained 
 * together by connecting the (hopefully) obvious pins. Displays 
 * are numbered with display 1 being at the end of the chain if 
 * you have more than one. 
 */ 
int DISPLAYS = 3; 
 
/*  
 * Create a new LedControl object, passing in the data,  
 * clock, chip select and number of displays  
 */ 
LedControl lc = LedControl(DATA, CLOCK, CS, DISPLAYS); 
 
/* Initialise the displays */ 
void setup() { 
  for (int n = 0; n < DISPLAYS; n++) { 
    lc.shutdown(n,false); 
    lc.setIntensity(n,8); 
    lc.clearDisplay(n); 
  } 
} 
 
/* Used to allow the sin wave to animate */ 
float offset = 0.0; 
 
void loop() { 
  /* Iterate over the total number of rows, i.e. DISPLAYS * 8 */ 
  for (int i = 0 ; i < DISPLAYS <<3; i++) { 
    /* For each row work out where we want the dot for a sin wave */ 
    int shift = (int)((sin(offset + ((float)(i)*0.6))+1.0)*4.0); 
    /* 
     * Set the row to be that value, we'd use columns but our 
     * are the wrong shape on the boards to do that. Columns would 
     * be more efficient and require fewer shift operations internally 
     */ 
    lc.setRow(i>>3, i & 7, 1<<shift);  
  } 
  /* Increment the offset, add a delay and go around again */ 
  offset += PI / 16; 
  delay(50); 
} 


;{{Done|2x Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
: Standard 'calculator style' seven segment displays in a module of eight of them with associated driver circuitry.
: [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/COM-09622-MAX7219-MAX7221.pdf MAX7219 Datasheet]

;{{Done|4x LCD 20x4 character displays}}
: LCD character displays, serial protocol (probably!) to drive them.

=== Everything else ===

;{{Done|2x IR correlation modules}}
: IR beam break sensors with amplifiers to provide a clean signal. Not tested yet!

;10x Playstation style joysticks
: Analogue joysticks with an embedded press button

;{{Done|Male to male and male to female jumper leads}}
: A load of long jump leads with pins and sockets (depending on type) to make it easier to interface to modules such as the NRF24L which have otherwise awkward pin layouts and can't be directly connected to a breadboard. Update - these are now here, and are so full of lurve that they're unsafe to use unless you are singing 'The Power of Love' by Huey Lewis and the News while doing so. This will be enforced.

== Requests ==

Put your requests for parts here...

At the moment I think we could do with some regular DC motors, some switches, potentiometers, piezo speakers and battery packs (ideally with a few regulator boards capable of providing clean 3.3v, 5v and possibly 12v feeds from the same). We can make the boards, potentially. Even better for power would be a few LiPo packs, again with regulators and suitable chargers.

Equipment/3D Printer/RiskAssessment

2015-07-21T19:05:14Z

Kim SJ: Updated to link to pdf

(PDF copy of original which is in Makespace Dropbox at [Dropbox]\Makespace\Admin\health and safety\risk assessments\activity risk assessments)

http://wiki.makespace.org/images/a/aa/3D_Printer_-_Activity_Risk_Assessment.pdf

Equipment/3D Printer

2015-07-21T19:02:13Z

Kim SJ: /* Software */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer

= Introduction =
3D printing is a way of creating small, custom objects from plastic filament. The printer melts the filament, held on a spool, and prints with it to create 3D structures. Makespace has two 3D printers, an UP! and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Currently, the Makerbot is the only printer working in the space. The UP! is out of action until it can be fixed by the owners (needs new electronic components).

== Owners ==

The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact.

The current Owners of the 3D printers are:

* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]
* Brian Starkey (for the Up!)

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.

== Trainers ==

The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.

The current Trainers for the 3D printers are:


* Peter Knight
* James Hutton
*[[User:Pinski1|Robert K.]]
* Jonny Waite

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED 
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers
</div>

To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]

Note that persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading its manual. See https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf

== General Health and Safety ==

The 3D printers are excellent tools for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printers are:

* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED'''
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup

'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'pause' and 'stop printing' functions on the Makerbot so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.

'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printers are heated, and will reach temperatures up to 253 degrees during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzles also get very hot. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the Makerbot's guard door securely closed while printing.
* Be careful when the machines have recently been used, as they may still be hot enough to burn.

'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.

'''FUMES''' - In high concentrations ABS fumes may cause irritation. Do not spend hours bent over the printer whilst it is printed, and turn on the extractor/inlet fans of the main space when doing long print runs.

== Plastics used in the printers ==

The 3D printers can print with two different plastics, PLA and ABS. PLA has a much lower melting point than ABS, so all temperature settings for the printer need to be changed if you are switching between plastics. Normally ABS is what we would reccomend printing in: it is more durable and strong.

Telling the difference between the plastics is fairly simple: if you take a piece of the PLA filament between your fingers you can break it off and snap it easily - it is brittle. When you try to break off a piece of ABS, it bends and the filament starts to go white, not breaking straight away.

The communal stock is kept in two plastic boxes under the printers. Please make sure you keep the stock in its plastic bags, with the silica gel -- filament absorbs moisture and this causes lots of printing problems.

If you want to buy your own filament (much cheaper than 10p/gramme if you're doing a lot of printing), try http://www.shop.3dfilaprint.com/ Makespace members get a 5% discount with the code: cambmake

= Makerbot Replicator 2X 3D Printer =
==Gallery of 3D printed things in Makespace using Replicator 2X==
<gallery>
File:Unicorn Horn.jpg|unicorn horn http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83012
File:Dremel Turbine.jpg|Dremel turbine http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13188 Watch the turbine in action on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQ66rMH4eZQ YouTube]
File:Ying Yang Cylinder.jpg|Yin Yang cylinder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22682
File:Ying Yang.JPG|Ying Yang proper http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22764
File:Trefoil Knot.jpg|trefoil knot http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:577364
File:TrifoilKnotTwoI.JPG|trefoil knot II http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:387146
File:2_color_cube_2.JPG|2 color cube http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:562955
File:3D twirl.jpg|3D twirl http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:604403
</gallery>

This is the Makerbot Replicator 2X, currently the only 3D printer working in the space. There is a dedicated PC next to it with the MakerWare software used to drive it. MakerWare can import STL design files (eg. from Thingiverse) for printing. The manual for this printer can be found here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf

== Specific Safety Tips ==

There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Makerbot will display its current temperatures for you if you use the arrow keys to navigate on its small display (see manual). The platter may also move unexpextedly. Do not open the front hatch or lift off the top transparent cover during printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventillated area.

Don't let the machine run unattended - you don't need to watch a print constantly but keep an eye on it and always remain in the same room. Possible problems that would require you to pause or stop the machine include filament getting wrapped around the spool holder at the back and sticking, and a software crash on the PC. If you're unsure of a situation you can always pause your print and restart it.

Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.

== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==

The bed is covered with Kapton tape. This green, shiny tape is very fragile and expensive to replace and so you MUST NOT use a knife, scraper or other sharp object to remove your finished models. Use your hands only, or the plastic scraper with the Makerbot logo on in the red box as a last resort. Often, models will easily come free once the bed is allowed to cool, so give it 10 minutes and try again before resorting to this.

The kapton tape needs to be kept clean so that plastic extruded onto it has a nice base finish and sticks well. If you notice smears or marks on the tape give it a gentle clean with a dry cloth from the red box on the shelf. Make sure your hands are clean and not greasy before you touch the platen or try to remove printed objects from it.

If you do damage the tape, please let the owners know as soon as possible. The owners group email address is on the sign on the side of the machine.

== Using SD cards with the Makerbot ==

We would recommend driving the Makerbot directly from the dedicated software on the PC next to it. If you want to use an SD card, it is very fussy. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card formatted this way, currently in the slot of the printer free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away! The SD card should contain .thing files to print from.

== Loading and Unloading ==

You will notice there are two print heads for this printer, driven by two separate spools of plastic on different axles.

When you want to change spools, either to change colour or because a spool has nearly run out, follow these instructions, found on page 31 of the Manual. Go there if you have any questions about detail or need further instructions with illustrations. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf

If you need to unload the MakerBot Filament, the LCD menu will walk you through the process. To run the script for unloading the filament from either extruder, go to the LCD panel and select Utilities > Filament Options > Unload (specify left or right). The LCD menu will walk you through the process. You will need to first remove the transparent lid to access the filament tubes. Be patient - yanking at the filament before it is ready to be removed may leave residue inside the extruders which is VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.

When you are ready to load a fresh filament, the menu will walk you through the process. There is no need to worry about allowing extra printing to change colours fully afterwards because you'll print a test strip during changeover that does that. There is a step of 'cut off lump' which means you'll need to use the wire cutters provided to snip away this excess lump of test printed material.

It is very important to make sure your spools are running in the correct direction. Ensure that the filament mounted on the right spool holder [when viewed from the back] unspools clockwise and that the filament mounted on the left spool unspools counterclockwise. Refer to the diagram you were shown during training, or to the manual.

Also beware of wrapping round axle - sometimes the spools can get misaligned and filament ends up tightening and wrapping around the axle. This is very dangerous and printing should be stopped straight away to correct it. There is more of a danger of this happening if the spools are set up incorrectly.

If you are changing between PLA and ABS you also need to change the temperature settings of the machine, since PLA will burn at the temperatures used for ABS, and ABS will not print at PLA temperatures.

== Printing ==

The printer always extrudes a test line along the front of the bed first. Make sure to remove this when you remove your print, and that your print location doesn't clash with it.

Preheating the bed is helpful but not necessary - it will save you time. The printer will not print until the bed has heated up enough. You can select the left and/or right extruders to heat up as well. If you are only printing with one material, just select that extruder. Go to Utilities > Preheat > Start Preheat

If a model is stuck, wait for the bed to cool - often they will come away very easily once cooled enough. Otherwise apply a gentle twisting action manually. As a last resort, use the plastic MakerBot branded paddle to scrape it away from the bed. Do NOT use metal knives - they will damage the kapton bed.

Keep an eye on it. prints can go strange half way! Be ready to pause or stop while printing. You can find those options by pressing the left arrow while printing. You can always pause a print if you are uncertain - as long as you resume it within a couple of minutes, this shouldn't alter your final result.

== Levelling ==

This is not often needed. The symptoms of unlevelness are:

- first layer too thin or varying thickness
- part not sticking

In the worst case: the print head ends up touching the bed - HEAD CRASH. This is bad news. Level the bed before this stage is reached!

To level the bed, go to Utilities > Level Build Plate. There are 3 screws underneath the build plate - see p23 of the Manual for a diagram on where they are located. The MakerBot software will guide you through the process of adjusting them to level the plate. The ideal to aim for is that a piece of paper should *just* slide through the gap between the extruder nozzle and the plate in each location.

Be careful not to damage kapton tape while doing this!

== Software ==

The software used with the MakerBot 2X is called MakerWare. It is well documented in the Manual and there are many online tutorials for its use, so we will not go into detail here.

Some tips on our experience with the software:

If there seems to be an unspecified software problem/crash, try selecting Services > Restart Background Service. This resets the connection to the printer. Don't do this while printing.

Edit > Settings lets you select which plastic you have loaded into each extruder. You need to change this each time you load new plastic. When switching to PLA make sure to change the temperature profile here as well as switching colours.

The Make button gives you settings for supports (colour matched is best), whether to have a raft (generally not needed), and resolution (standard is best). For a general guide, 4 shells with layer height h = 0.2mm generally works well. Experiment with infill settings - 15% is generally fine.

== Multicolour ==

Can't do scaffolding and multicolour - This is not true anymore, we think.
Issues with mixed materials. It might seem like a good idea to use a PLA scaffold for an ABS piece and then dissolve away the PLA in hot water, but this is in fact very difficult. It's better to think about scaffolding with weaker pieces of the same plastic, or changing a piece's orientation.

== Other Details ==

Don't leave the room while printing! The printer is very expensive and you don't want to have to explain the lump of plastic stuck to a now-unusable extruder is your fault. Play it safe, keep an eye on your prints.

You need to pay for your prints once you have made them. The current rate is 10p/gram of material used - use the little scales on the shelves on top of the printer area to weigh your finished prints.

== Hardware Updates ==

The drive blocks on both extruders are OEM, and are known to have problems with filament feeding. They are also unable to work with NinjaFlex 3D Flexible Printing Filament, of which we now have a roll. Several 3D printable repacement drive blocks are available. one of them from Makerbot. The most useful for our purposes is the "Replicator 2X Extruder Drive Block Upgrade", thingiverse #222667.

This has been printed, and all of the hardware assembled with one exception: the tension spring. In testing, the new drive block works well, BUT the spring does not provide sufficient tension. The recommended spring is from McMasters in the US (see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:222667 for details), and we have been unable to source a cost-effective alternative in the UK. So for now, this update project is stalled. If someone wants to take on the task of finding a suitable spring, the drive block parts are on the shelf above the printer, and there is a note attached with details and contacts.

= Using the UP! 3D Printer =
The Up! 3D printer now has it's own page: [[Equipment/3D_Printer/Up]]

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it

Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)
* Check the security and condition of all cabling
* Check the UP! platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)

Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus
* Strip coating off UP! platen and re-paint with a fresh coat
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported

== Maintenance Log ==

'''Reactive Maintenance'''
* None

'''Regular Maintenance'''
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)

2013
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)
* Week 09, February 25,
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)
* Week 12, March 18,
* Week 13, March 25,
* '''Week 14, April 1,'''



== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* TBD

= Further Information =
== Manual ==
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]

== Repairs ==

We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:
* TBD

Maintenance and Spares:
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]

* www.shop.3dfilaprint.com/ 5% Discount code is: cambmake



== Software ==

You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].

* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)

[[Equipment/3D_Printer/RiskAssessment|Risk Assessment]]

File:3D Printer - Activity Risk Assessment.pdf

2015-07-21T19:01:06Z

Kim SJ:

2015-02-23T13:47:44Z

Kim SJ: /* Plastics used in the printers */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer

= Introduction =
3D printing is a way of creating small, custom objects from plastic filament. The printer melts the filament, held on a spool, and prints with it to create 3D structures. Makespace has two 3D printers, an UP! and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Currently, the Makerbot is the only printer working in the space. The UP! is out of action until it can be fixed by the owners (needs new electronic components).

== Owners ==

The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact.

The current Owners of the 3D printers are:

* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.

== Trainers ==

The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.

The current Trainers for the 3D printers are:

*[[User:HannahWray|Hannah Wray]]
* Peter Knight
* James Hutton
*[[User:Pinski1|Robert K.]]
* Jonny Waite

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED 
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers
</div>

To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]

Note that persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading its manual. See https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf

== General Health and Safety ==

The 3D printers are excellent tools for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printers are:

* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED'''
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup

'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'pause' and 'stop printing' functions on the Makerbot so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.

'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printers are heated, and will reach temperatures up to 253 degrees during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzles also get very hot. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the Makerbot's guard door securely closed while printing.
* Be careful when the machines have recently been used, as they may still be hot enough to burn.

'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.

== Plastics used in the printers ==

The 3D printers can print with two different plastics, PLA and ABS. PLA has a much lower melting point than ABS, so all temperature settings for the printer need to be changed if you are switching between plastics. Normally ABS is what we would reccomend printing in: it is more durable and strong.

Telling the difference between the plastics is fairly simple: if you take a piece of the PLA filament between your fingers you can break it off and snap it easily - it is brittle. When you try to break off a piece of ABS, it bends and the filament starts to go white, not breaking straight away.

The communal stock is kept in two plastic boxes under the printers. Please make sure you keep the stock in its plastic bags, with the silica gel -- filament absorbs moisture and this causes lots of printing problems.

If you want to buy your own filament (much cheaper than 10p/gramme if you're doing a lot of printing), try http://www.shop.3dfilaprint.com/ Makespace members get a 5% discount with the code: cambmake

= Makerbot Replicator 2X 3D Printer =
==Gallery of 3D printed things in Makespace using Replicator 2X==
<gallery>
File:Unicorn Horn.jpg|unicorn horn http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83012
File:Dremel Turbine.jpg|Dremel turbine http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13188 Watch the turbine in action on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQ66rMH4eZQ YouTube]
File:Ying Yang Cylinder.jpg|Yin Yang cylinder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22682
File:Ying Yang.JPG|Ying Yang proper http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22764
File:Trefoil Knot.jpg|trefoil knot http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:577364
File:TrifoilKnotTwoI.JPG|trefoil knot II http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:387146
File:2_color_cube_2.JPG|2 color cube http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:562955
File:3D twirl.jpg|3D twirl http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:604403
</gallery>

This is the Makerbot Replicator 2X, currently the only 3D printer working in the space. There is a dedicated PC next to it with the MakerWare software used to drive it. MakerWare can import STL design files (eg. from Thingiverse) for printing. The manual for this printer can be found here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf

== Specific Safety Tips ==

There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Makerbot will display its current temperatures for you if you use the arrow keys to navigate on its small display (see manual). The platter may also move unexpextedly. Do not open the front hatch or lift off the top transparent cover during printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventillated area.

Don't let the machine run unattended - you don't need to watch a print constantly but keep an eye on it and always remain in the same room. Possible problems that would require you to pause or stop the machine include filament getting wrapped around the spool holder at the back and sticking, and a software crash on the PC. If you're unsure of a situation you can always pause your print and restart it.

Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.

== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==

The bed is covered with Kapton tape. This green, shiny tape is very fragile and expensive to replace and so you MUST NOT use a knife, scraper or other sharp object to remove your finished models. Use your hands only, or the plastic scraper with the Makerbot logo on in the red box as a last resort. Often, models will easily come free once the bed is allowed to cool, so give it 10 minutes and try again before resorting to this.

The kapton tape needs to be kept clean so that plastic extruded onto it has a nice base finish and sticks well. If you notice smears or marks on the tape give it a gentle clean with a dry cloth from the red box on the shelf. Make sure your hands are clean and not greasy before you touch the platen or try to remove printed objects from it.

If you do damage the tape, please let the owners know as soon as possible. The owners group email address is on the sign on the side of the machine.

== Using SD cards with the Makerbot ==

We would recommend driving the Makerbot directly from the dedicated software on the PC next to it. If you want to use an SD card, it is very fussy. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card formatted this way, currently in the slot of the printer free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away! The SD card should contain .thing files to print from.

== Loading and Unloading ==

You will notice there are two print heads for this printer, driven by two separate spools of plastic on different axles.

When you want to change spools, either to change colour or because a spool has nearly run out, follow these instructions, found on page 31 of the Manual. Go there if you have any questions about detail or need further instructions with illustrations. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf

If you need to unload the MakerBot Filament, the LCD menu will walk you through the process. To run the script for unloading the filament from either extruder, go to the LCD panel and select Utilities > Filament Options > Unload (specify left or right). The LCD menu will walk you through the process. You will need to first remove the transparent lid to access the filament tubes. Be patient - yanking at the filament before it is ready to be removed may leave residue inside the extruders which is VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.

When you are ready to load a fresh filament, the menu will walk you through the process. There is no need to worry about allowing extra printing to change colours fully afterwards because you'll print a test strip during changeover that does that. There is a step of 'cut off lump' which means you'll need to use the wire cutters provided to snip away this excess lump of test printed material.

It is very important to make sure your spools are running in the correct direction. Ensure that the filament mounted on the right spool holder [when viewed from the back] unspools clockwise and that the filament mounted on the left spool unspools counterclockwise. Refer to the diagram you were shown during training, or to the manual.

Also beware of wrapping round axle - sometimes the spools can get misaligned and filament ends up tightening and wrapping around the axle. This is very dangerous and printing should be stopped straight away to correct it. There is more of a danger of this happening if the spools are set up incorrectly.

If you are changing between PLA and ABS you also need to change the temperature settings of the machine, since PLA will burn at the temperatures used for ABS, and ABS will not print at PLA temperatures.

== Printing ==

The printer always extrudes a test line along the front of the bed first. Make sure to remove this when you remove your print, and that your print location doesn't clash with it.

Preheating the bed is helpful but not necessary - it will save you time. The printer will not print until the bed has heated up enough. You can select the left and/or right extruders to heat up as well. If you are only printing with one material, just select that extruder. Go to Utilities > Preheat > Start Preheat

If a model is stuck, wait for the bed to cool - often they will come away very easily once cooled enough. Otherwise apply a gentle twisting action manually. As a last resort, use the plastic MakerBot branded paddle to scrape it away from the bed. Do NOT use metal knives - they will damage the kapton bed.

Keep an eye on it. prints can go strange half way! Be ready to pause or stop while printing. You can find those options by pressing the left arrow while printing. You can always pause a print if you are uncertain - as long as you resume it within a couple of minutes, this shouldn't alter your final result.

== Levelling ==

This is not often needed. The symptoms of unlevelness are:

- first layer too thin or varying thickness
- part not sticking

In the worst case: the print head ends up touching the bed - HEAD CRASH. This is bad news. Level the bed before this stage is reached!

To level the bed, go to Utilities > Level Build Plate. There are 3 screws underneath the build plate - see p23 of the Manual for a diagram on where they are located. The MakerBot software will guide you through the process of adjusting them to level the plate. The ideal to aim for is that a piece of paper should *just* slide through the gap between the extruder nozzle and the plate in each location.

Be careful not to damage kapton tape while doing this!

== Software ==

The software used with the MakerBot 2X is called MakerWare. It is well documented in the Manual and there are many online tutorials for its use, so we will not go into detail here.

Some tips on our experience with the software:

If there seems to be an unspecified software problem/crash, try selecting Services > Restart Background Service. This resets the connection to the printer. Don't do this while printing.

Edit > Settings lets you select which plastic you have loaded into each extruder. You need to change this each time you load new plastic. When switching to PLA make sure to change the temperature profile here as well as switching colours.

The Make button gives you settings for supports (colour matched is best), whether to have a raft (generally not needed), and resolution (standard is best). For a general guide, 4 shells with layer height h = 0.2mm generally works well. Experiment with infill settings - 15% is generally fine.

== Multicolour ==

Can't do scaffolding and multicolour - This is not true anymore, we think.
Issues with mixed materials. It might seem like a good idea to use a PLA scaffold for an ABS piece and then dissolve away the PLA in hot water, but this is in fact very difficult. It's better to think about scaffolding with weaker pieces of the same plastic, or changing a piece's orientation.

== Other Details ==

Don't leave the room while printing! The printer is very expensive and you don't want to have to explain the lump of plastic stuck to a now-unusable extruder is your fault. Play it safe, keep an eye on your prints.

You need to pay for your prints once you have made them. The current rate is 10p/gram of material used - use the little scales on the shelves on top of the printer area to weigh your finished prints.

== Hardware Updates ==

The drive blocks on both extruders are OEM, and are known to have problems with filament feeding. They are also unable to work with NinjaFlex 3D Flexible Printing Filament, of which we now have a roll. Several 3D printable repacement drive blocks are available. one of them from Makerbot. The most useful for our purposes is the "Replicator 2X Extruder Drive Block Upgrade", thingiverse #222667.

This has been printed, and all of the hardware assembled with one exception: the tension spring. In testing, the new drive block works well, BUT the spring does not provide sufficient tension. The recommended spring is from McMasters in the US (see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:222667 for details), and we have been unable to source a cost-effective alternative in the UK. So for now, this update project is stalled. If someone wants to take on the task of finding a suitable spring, the drive block parts are on the shelf above the printer, and there is a note attached with details and contacts.

= Using the UP! 3D Printer =
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]

This is the UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).
The dedicated PC next to the printers is running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup. At the moment the UP! is out of action.

== Instructions ==

To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.

[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]
'''Power Up'''

# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar

[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]
'''Check calibration'''

This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.

# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog

'''Load your Design'''

# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.

[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]
'''Download to the Printer'''

# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box      Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below
# Press 'OK' to proceed
# Watch the magic happen ...

'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''

'''Finishing'''

# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade

'''Power Down'''

# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user

'''Cost'''

Currently we charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. You can weigh printed parts using the scales next to the blue honesty box. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it

Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)
* Check the security and condition of all cabling
* Check the UP! platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)

Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus
* Strip coating off UP! platen and re-paint with a fresh coat
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported

== Maintenance Log ==

'''Reactive Maintenance'''
* None

'''Regular Maintenance'''
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)

2013
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)
* Week 09, February 25,
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)
* Week 12, March 18,
* Week 13, March 25,
* '''Week 14, April 1,'''



== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* TBD

= Further Information =
== Manual ==
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]

== Repairs ==

We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:
* TBD

Maintenance and Spares:
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]

* www.shop.3dfilaprint.com/ 5% Discount code is: cambmake



== Software ==

You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].

* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)

Equipment/3D Printer

2015-02-23T13:44:04Z

Kim SJ: /* Plastics used in the printers */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / 3D Printer

= Introduction =
3D printing is a way of creating small, custom objects from plastic filament. The printer melts the filament, held on a spool, and prints with it to create 3D structures. Makespace has two 3D printers, an UP! and a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Currently, the Makerbot is the only printer working in the space. The UP! is out of action until it can be fixed by the owners (needs new electronic components).

== Owners ==

The Owners are those nominally in charge of the equipment, organising its maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact.

The current Owners of the 3D printers are:

* [[User:Kim_SJ|Kim Spence-Jones]]

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the 3D printer, these are the people to contact.

== Trainers ==

The Trainers are not in charge of maintaing equipment, but have been more thoroughly instructed in its use and can train others. They may run extra classes for recently trained learners.

The current Trainers for the 3D printers are:

*[[User:HannahWray|Hannah Wray]]
* Peter Knight
* James Hutton
*[[User:Pinski1|Robert K.]]
* Jonny Waite

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
YOU CAN ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED 
and have been added to the [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners or Trainers
</div>

To get trained on the 3D Printer and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the 3D Printer Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/3D Printer/Training|3D Printer Training]]

Note that persons who were previously trained on the UP! are allowed to use the Makerbot after reading its manual. See https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf

== General Health and Safety ==

The 3D printers are excellent tools for either making small parts, or rapid prototyping. At the same time it is an expensive tool with a (small) risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. The 3D printer is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the 3D printers are:

* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED'''
* '''ONLY USE THE 3D PRINTER IF YOU HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE PRINTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a responsible user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''HEAD CRASH''' - incorrect calibration could cause the nozzle to hit the platen at job start
* Calibration must be carefully checked on each startup

'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the machine are moved by programs in the machine's memory.
* Be careful when near the machine, it will possibly move even if the PC is off
* Ensure you are familiar with the 'pause' and 'stop printing' functions on the Makerbot so that in an emergency you can quickly halt printing.

'''BURN RISK''' - the platen on the printers are heated, and will reach temperatures up to 253 degrees during a print run which could cause skin burns. The extrusion nozzles also get very hot. Do not touch either of these areas while printing, and keep the Makerbot's guard door securely closed while printing.
* Be careful when the machines have recently been used, as they may still be hot enough to burn.

'''ELECTROCUTION''' - as with all mains powered devices there is a small risk of danger from exposed wires. Always do a manual check that the wiring is safe, no cores are exposed or wires trapped.

== Plastics used in the printers ==

The 3D printers can print with two different plastics, PLA and ABS. PLA has a much lower melting point than ABS, so all temperature settings for the printer need to be changed if you are switching between plastics. Normally ABS is what we would reccomend printing in: it is more durable and strong.

Telling the difference between the plastics is fairly simple: if you take a piece of the PLA filament between your fingers you can break it off and snap it easily - it is brittle. When you try to break off a piece of ABS, it bends and the filament starts to go white, not breaking straight away.

The communal stock is kept in two plastic boxes under the printers. Please make sure you keep the stock in its plastic bags, with the silica gel -- filament absorbs moisture and this causes lots of printing problems.

= Makerbot Replicator 2X 3D Printer =
==Gallery of 3D printed things in Makespace using Replicator 2X==
<gallery>
File:Unicorn Horn.jpg|unicorn horn http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83012
File:Dremel Turbine.jpg|Dremel turbine http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13188 Watch the turbine in action on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQ66rMH4eZQ YouTube]
File:Ying Yang Cylinder.jpg|Yin Yang cylinder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22682
File:Ying Yang.JPG|Ying Yang proper http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22764
File:Trefoil Knot.jpg|trefoil knot http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:577364
File:TrifoilKnotTwoI.JPG|trefoil knot II http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:387146
File:2_color_cube_2.JPG|2 color cube http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:562955
File:3D twirl.jpg|3D twirl http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:604403
</gallery>

This is the Makerbot Replicator 2X, currently the only 3D printer working in the space. There is a dedicated PC next to it with the MakerWare software used to drive it. MakerWare can import STL design files (eg. from Thingiverse) for printing. The manual for this printer can be found here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf

== Specific Safety Tips ==

There is a burn hazard from the nozzles and the heated platter, as mentioned above. The Makerbot will display its current temperatures for you if you use the arrow keys to navigate on its small display (see manual). The platter may also move unexpextedly. Do not open the front hatch or lift off the top transparent cover during printing. ABS fumes over a long period may be harmful - if you feel light-headed take a break in a well ventillated area.

Don't let the machine run unattended - you don't need to watch a print constantly but keep an eye on it and always remain in the same room. Possible problems that would require you to pause or stop the machine include filament getting wrapped around the spool holder at the back and sticking, and a software crash on the PC. If you're unsure of a situation you can always pause your print and restart it.

Always switch the printer off at the back when you are finished.

== Avoiding Damage to the Machine ==

The bed is covered with Kapton tape. This green, shiny tape is very fragile and expensive to replace and so you MUST NOT use a knife, scraper or other sharp object to remove your finished models. Use your hands only, or the plastic scraper with the Makerbot logo on in the red box as a last resort. Often, models will easily come free once the bed is allowed to cool, so give it 10 minutes and try again before resorting to this.

The kapton tape needs to be kept clean so that plastic extruded onto it has a nice base finish and sticks well. If you notice smears or marks on the tape give it a gentle clean with a dry cloth from the red box on the shelf. Make sure your hands are clean and not greasy before you touch the platen or try to remove printed objects from it.

If you do damage the tape, please let the owners know as soon as possible. The owners group email address is on the sign on the side of the machine.

== Using SD cards with the Makerbot ==

We would recommend driving the Makerbot directly from the dedicated software on the PC next to it. If you want to use an SD card, it is very fussy. SD cards have to be PHYSICALLY 2GB or smaller (formatting a big card small doesn't work). They also have to be formatted in FAT16 (mostly Linux machines do this most easily). There is a small card formatted this way, currently in the slot of the printer free to use. It's labelled "MAKESPACE"; please don't absent-mindedly take it away! The SD card should contain .thing files to print from.

== Loading and Unloading ==

You will notice there are two print heads for this printer, driven by two separate spools of plastic on different axles.

When you want to change spools, either to change colour or because a spool has nearly run out, follow these instructions, found on page 31 of the Manual. Go there if you have any questions about detail or need further instructions with illustrations. https://s3.amazonaws.com/downloads.makerbot.com/replicator2x/MakerBot_Replicator_2X_User_Manual.pdf

If you need to unload the MakerBot Filament, the LCD menu will walk you through the process. To run the script for unloading the filament from either extruder, go to the LCD panel and select Utilities > Filament Options > Unload (specify left or right). The LCD menu will walk you through the process. You will need to first remove the transparent lid to access the filament tubes. Be patient - yanking at the filament before it is ready to be removed may leave residue inside the extruders which is VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.

When you are ready to load a fresh filament, the menu will walk you through the process. There is no need to worry about allowing extra printing to change colours fully afterwards because you'll print a test strip during changeover that does that. There is a step of 'cut off lump' which means you'll need to use the wire cutters provided to snip away this excess lump of test printed material.

It is very important to make sure your spools are running in the correct direction. Ensure that the filament mounted on the right spool holder [when viewed from the back] unspools clockwise and that the filament mounted on the left spool unspools counterclockwise. Refer to the diagram you were shown during training, or to the manual.

Also beware of wrapping round axle - sometimes the spools can get misaligned and filament ends up tightening and wrapping around the axle. This is very dangerous and printing should be stopped straight away to correct it. There is more of a danger of this happening if the spools are set up incorrectly.

If you are changing between PLA and ABS you also need to change the temperature settings of the machine, since PLA will burn at the temperatures used for ABS, and ABS will not print at PLA temperatures.

== Printing ==

The printer always extrudes a test line along the front of the bed first. Make sure to remove this when you remove your print, and that your print location doesn't clash with it.

Preheating the bed is helpful but not necessary - it will save you time. The printer will not print until the bed has heated up enough. You can select the left and/or right extruders to heat up as well. If you are only printing with one material, just select that extruder. Go to Utilities > Preheat > Start Preheat

If a model is stuck, wait for the bed to cool - often they will come away very easily once cooled enough. Otherwise apply a gentle twisting action manually. As a last resort, use the plastic MakerBot branded paddle to scrape it away from the bed. Do NOT use metal knives - they will damage the kapton bed.

Keep an eye on it. prints can go strange half way! Be ready to pause or stop while printing. You can find those options by pressing the left arrow while printing. You can always pause a print if you are uncertain - as long as you resume it within a couple of minutes, this shouldn't alter your final result.

== Levelling ==

This is not often needed. The symptoms of unlevelness are:

- first layer too thin or varying thickness
- part not sticking

In the worst case: the print head ends up touching the bed - HEAD CRASH. This is bad news. Level the bed before this stage is reached!

To level the bed, go to Utilities > Level Build Plate. There are 3 screws underneath the build plate - see p23 of the Manual for a diagram on where they are located. The MakerBot software will guide you through the process of adjusting them to level the plate. The ideal to aim for is that a piece of paper should *just* slide through the gap between the extruder nozzle and the plate in each location.

Be careful not to damage kapton tape while doing this!

== Software ==

The software used with the MakerBot 2X is called MakerWare. It is well documented in the Manual and there are many online tutorials for its use, so we will not go into detail here.

Some tips on our experience with the software:

If there seems to be an unspecified software problem/crash, try selecting Services > Restart Background Service. This resets the connection to the printer. Don't do this while printing.

Edit > Settings lets you select which plastic you have loaded into each extruder. You need to change this each time you load new plastic. When switching to PLA make sure to change the temperature profile here as well as switching colours.

The Make button gives you settings for supports (colour matched is best), whether to have a raft (generally not needed), and resolution (standard is best). For a general guide, 4 shells with layer height h = 0.2mm generally works well. Experiment with infill settings - 15% is generally fine.

== Multicolour ==

Can't do scaffolding and multicolour - This is not true anymore, we think.
Issues with mixed materials. It might seem like a good idea to use a PLA scaffold for an ABS piece and then dissolve away the PLA in hot water, but this is in fact very difficult. It's better to think about scaffolding with weaker pieces of the same plastic, or changing a piece's orientation.

== Other Details ==

Don't leave the room while printing! The printer is very expensive and you don't want to have to explain the lump of plastic stuck to a now-unusable extruder is your fault. Play it safe, keep an eye on your prints.

You need to pay for your prints once you have made them. The current rate is 10p/gram of material used - use the little scales on the shelves on top of the printer area to weigh your finished prints.

== Hardware Updates ==

The drive blocks on both extruders are OEM, and are known to have problems with filament feeding. They are also unable to work with NinjaFlex 3D Flexible Printing Filament, of which we now have a roll. Several 3D printable repacement drive blocks are available. one of them from Makerbot. The most useful for our purposes is the "Replicator 2X Extruder Drive Block Upgrade", thingiverse #222667.

This has been printed, and all of the hardware assembled with one exception: the tension spring. In testing, the new drive block works well, BUT the spring does not provide sufficient tension. The recommended spring is from McMasters in the US (see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:222667 for details), and we have been unable to source a cost-effective alternative in the UK. So for now, this update project is stalled. If someone wants to take on the task of finding a suitable spring, the drive block parts are on the shelf above the printer, and there is a note attached with details and contacts.

= Using the UP! 3D Printer =
[[File:Up_3d_printer.jpg|thumb|left]]

This is the UP! (a slightly older version of [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/plus-personal-portable-printer-p-644.html the device currently available]).
The dedicated PC next to the printers is running win7 and UP! software. It can import STL design files from Google sketchup. At the moment the UP! is out of action.

== Instructions ==

To use the printer you must familiarise yourself with the safety notes above and read the following instructions.

[[File:3d printer desktop.png|Desktop showing Up! software link|thumb|right]]
'''Power Up'''

# Give the machine a quick visual check. '''Make sure that there is nothing left on the platen.''' Remove the platen support piece from under the platen and gently lower it. '''Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it'''
# Turn on the machine at the wall socket
# Initialise the machine - Open the 'Up!' software on the attached PC and double-click the software icon. Once it has loaded select '3D Print > Initialise' from the toolbar

[[File:3d printer maint.png|Maintenance dialog|thumb|right]]
'''Check calibration'''

This operation must be carried out to ensure the bed is level and has the height correct.

# Firstly find the current value of the nozzle height in the print dialog. This is only accessible once you have a design loaded, so load a model in (there should always be some in the '3D Printer Training' folder on the desktop) and then select 'Print' from the toolbar
# Note the printhead height from this dialog (currently 139.1) and press cancel to abort
# Go to the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from toolbar) and set the head height to 20mm less than this height. Enter the value in the edit box and press 'To:' button
# Then move the bed closer to the expected value, in decreasing steps, until you reach the set height or the nozzle is going to hit the bed. If you reach the specified height (currently 139.1mm) there should just about be room to get a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.
# Once this has been checked you should drop the head to about '100' and then repeat the check at two other corners and the centre. When the platen is well below the head you can quickly go to the other locations using the FL/FR/NL/NR/Center buttons on the maintenance dialog

'''Load your Design'''

# Import your model - press the 'Open' icon on the ribbon bar
# Check the placing and size of your model - the printer software is quite clever, but it may not choose the best orientation of complex shapes. You want the largest flat surface on the bottom, so that less support material is required.

[[File:3d printer startup dlg-crop.png|Print confirmation dialog|thumb|right]]
'''Download to the Printer'''

# When you are ready to print you can just press the 'Print' button on the ribbon bar
# Some calculations now take place and a popup box will appear with an estimate of how much material will be required as well as how long printing will take - please check 3D Printer Material Cost table and put your money in the honesty box      Worried whether there's enough filament left for your job? As a rule of thumb, one turn of the material drum is about 1g of material.
# If you are happy then make a note of the material weight and check the cost against the table below
# Press 'OK' to proceed
# Watch the magic happen ...

'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE PRINTER UNATTENDED'''

'''Finishing'''

# When the part is finished the printer will make several beeps - but of course you will be watching so you will be expecting that
# DO NOT TOUCH THE PLATEN YET ! It is usually very hot, and it is best to give it a few minutes at least
# When it has cooled a little then with care you can peel the part away from the platen
# The 'raft' which was built to produce the part on should then separate with a little effort, and possibly careful peeling with a blade

'''Power Down'''

# Lower the platen to its rest position before turning off. Do this from the maintenance dialog (3D Print > Maintenance from the toolbar) and press 'To Bottom'
# Turn off the printer on the wall socket
# Gently lift the platen and put the platen support piece back underneath
# Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe and clean state for the next user

'''Cost'''

Currently we charge 10 pence per gram for prints, this is to cover the cost of material plus a little for wear and tear and other consumables. You can weigh printed parts using the scales next to the blue honesty box. Please put your money into the blue labelled honesty box on the shelf above the printer.

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the 3D printer is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all 3D Printer Users''')
* Clean the platen of any plastic remnants
* Check the new material is feeding OK and the reel has enough on it

Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)
* Check the security and condition of all cabling
* Check the UP! platen coating and re-paint any areas if necessary (green paint is in a pot with the printer)

Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by 3D Printer Maintainers)
* Tasks as per Basic Maintenance, plus
* Strip coating off UP! platen and re-paint with a fresh coat
* Calibration check, if issues have been reported

== Maintenance Log ==

'''Reactive Maintenance'''
* None

'''Regular Maintenance'''
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)

2013
* Week 08, February 18, Simon Stirley (Re-painted holes in platen coating)
* Week 09, February 25,
* '''Week 10, March 4, '''
* Week 11, March 11, Simon Stirley (checked wiring, posted safety notice, re-painted platen holes)
* Week 12, March 18,
* Week 13, March 25,
* '''Week 14, April 1,'''



== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* TBD

= Further Information =
== Manual ==
The manual is installed in the machine attached to the printer and also available here: [http://makespace.org/wiki/images/5/5d/Up_plus_user_manual-v3.0.pdf Manual]

== Repairs ==

We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:
* TBD

Maintenance and Spares:
* One UK supplier of consumables is [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/consumables-c-89_98.html Cool Components]

* www.shop.3dfilaprint.com/ 5% Discount code is: cambmake



== Software ==

You can download Quickstart manual and latest driver software from [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=com_jdownloads&view=viewcategories&Itemid=89 pp3dp].

* [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google SketchUp] with STL plugin as below
** [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl This plugin] seems to work quite well. Use 'File/Export to DXF or STL' from Sketchup once you have installed it and select 'STL' as the last item in the type list when asked
* [http://www.netfabb.com/ NetFabb] repairs any incomplete STL files
* [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab] is a good free program (Sourceforge) for visualising and modifying STL files
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD] is a script-based modeller ('3D compiler'), well-suited for technical CAD (less so for artistic design)

2014-10-10T12:12:00Z

Kim SJ: /* Secure Workshop Woodworking Tool Chest */

Shiny New Tool Chests

2014-10-10T10:36:12Z

Kim SJ: /* Secure Workshop Woodworking Tool Chest */

Shiny New Tool Chests

2014-10-10T10:35:30Z

Kim SJ: /* Secure Workshop Woodworking Tool Chest */

2014-08-28T06:59:37Z

Kim SJ: /* Definitely Going */ removed Kim's wife and niece

EMF 2014

2014-07-24T13:29:13Z

Kim SJ: /* Definitely Going */

(Taken from https://www.emfcamp.org/)

Electromagnetic Field is a UK camping festival for those with an inquisitive mind or an interest in making things: hackers, artists, geeks, crafters, scientists, and engineers.

Tickets are currently £95 for weekend camping, there are add-on tickets for car parking and camper van/caravan parking.

The EMF camp wiki is: http://wiki.emfcamp.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_Field_2014

==Things to Bring==
(See http://wiki.emfcamp.org/wiki/Packing_List for more details)
* Yourself
* A tent
* A torch
* Money to buy awesome things
* A ~10m mains extension cable
* A ~10m ethernet cable
* Electronicy geeky things obviously

==Members @ EMF==
===Definitely Going===
* [[User:Pinski1|Robert K]] +1 (lift might be available)
** I'll be bringing a 3D printer, a 13.6kg combat robot, an LED Display, 100Watt LED.
* Toby M
* Mat C +1 (lift might be available)
* Brian C
* Mark T
* Mark M (lift might be available from Hitchin)
* Mark C + kids (6 & 8)
* Stephen
* Tom O
* Tom M
** I'll bring my project, a 3D printer that makes clothes. I've also applied to do a talk about it.
* JCGS (bringing Land-Rover camper, can give lifts to up to 12 or 13 at a pinch)
* Kim SJ + wife and maybe niece
** I'll bring the Badger, at least. And maybe some Pi stuff.

===Possibly Going===
* Anne H. & friend
* Laura J + Michael D (subject to other commitments)

===Makespace Village===
There has been a suggestion of setting up Makespace Cambridge in the Hackspace Village. This would allow us to have a central Makespace tent and a place to show off our (un)finished projects!
We have an offer of 2 marquees; 10m x 4m (can be put up as 6mx4m) and 12m x 6m from Kim SJ's brother. We need to decide what we want to do for our Makespace Camp.

==Transport==
(Taken from http://wiki.emfcamp.org/wiki/Travel)

The site has the postcode MK17 0BU. This is roughly a mile outside of Newton Longville.

Public transport links don't look to be the best with Google Maps estimating it to be a 3 bus 3 hour journey or a 4 hour trip via London. It would thus be advisable to lift share with others.

EMF 2014

2014-07-24T13:28:10Z

Kim SJ: /* Definitely Going */

(Taken from https://www.emfcamp.org/)

Electromagnetic Field is a UK camping festival for those with an inquisitive mind or an interest in making things: hackers, artists, geeks, crafters, scientists, and engineers.

Tickets are currently £95 for weekend camping, there are add-on tickets for car parking and camper van/caravan parking.

The EMF camp wiki is: http://wiki.emfcamp.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_Field_2014

==Things to Bring==
(See http://wiki.emfcamp.org/wiki/Packing_List for more details)
* Yourself
* A tent
* A torch
* Money to buy awesome things
* A ~10m mains extension cable
* A ~10m ethernet cable
* Electronicy geeky things obviously

==Members @ EMF==
===Definitely Going===
* [[User:Pinski1|Robert K]] +1 (lift might be available)
** I'll be bringing a 3D printer, a 13.6kg combat robot, an LED Display, 100Watt LED.
* Toby M
* Mat C +1 (lift might be available)
* Brian C
* Mark T
* Mark M (lift might be available from Hitchin)
* Mark C + kids (6 & 8)
* Stephen
* Tom O
* Tom M
** I'll bring my project, a 3D printer that makes clothes. I've also applied to do a talk about it.
* JCGS (bringing Land-Rover camper, can give lifts to up to 12 or 13 at a pinch)
* Kim SJ + wife and maybe niece

===Possibly Going===
* Anne H. & friend
* Laura J + Michael D (subject to other commitments)

===Makespace Village===
There has been a suggestion of setting up Makespace Cambridge in the Hackspace Village. This would allow us to have a central Makespace tent and a place to show off our (un)finished projects!
We have an offer of 2 marquees; 10m x 4m (can be put up as 6mx4m) and 12m x 6m from Kim SJ's brother. We need to decide what we want to do for our Makespace Camp.

==Transport==
(Taken from http://wiki.emfcamp.org/wiki/Travel)

The site has the postcode MK17 0BU. This is roughly a mile outside of Newton Longville.

Public transport links don't look to be the best with Google Maps estimating it to be a 3 bus 3 hour journey or a 4 hour trip via London. It would thus be advisable to lift share with others.