Makespace - User contributions [en]

Patenting Experiences

2020-10-28T10:35:36Z

Mmorin: /* individual (optionally anonymous) opinions */

(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)
------------

Everyone -- whether attendee or not at one of the MakeSpace events in the series of “Patenting Experiences” -- shall be encouraged to contribute to the collective intelligence of this wiki.

It shall help makespacers, entrepreneurs, or inventors navigate the patenting jungle, deal with patent attorneys, save resources, and improve commercial IP value, etc.

Whatever you discover that needs improvement, please fix it ASAP, ideally by respectfully correcting what is not yet right, and by generously adding what is yet missing. Thank you in advance for your wise contributions.

== First Rule of Patents==
... is don’t talk about patents!

Or more accurately, if you think you have a patentable invention, be careful about discussing the specifics about it with anyone until you have the patent filed. Most particularly don’t talk about it on the internet. The risk is that if you accidentally publish the details of your idea, that can constitute prior art that would prevent your patent being issued, or could invalidate your patent if it is later challenged in court. Or that someone you tell casually could write up and patent the idea before you and gain priority.

That said, don’t be too paranoid, just be careful.
You can talk to people about your invention if you have a written non-disclosure agreement (NDA) signed with them.

==What is a Patent==
Officially, a patent is legal document which gives an inventor the legal right to a monopoly to exploit an invention for a period of ~20 years, in exchange for disclosing their invention. In practice, the long term public benefit of disclosing an invention might have made sense in the 19th century, but is no longer particularly. So now patents are largely a way for inventors to protect their idea whilst they try to commercialise it.

Patents are granted by patent offices which typically represent the government of a country and the legal protections of the patent only apply to the territory of that country. So if you just patent in the UK, someone in America is at liberty to read your patent and exploit it America, or any other country, except the UK. You can file patents several patent offices worldwide (usually within a year or two of filing the patent in the first territory), but the costs of paying for all those patents can be very high - think hundreds of thousands of pounds spread over 20 years. For a commercially valuable idea which can generate millions it is worth it, but not all ideas are worth that much. There are strategies of patenting in fewer territories to save costs, but you probably want legal advice to avoid making a mistake.

The patent offices you are most likely to be interested are the UK, USA, Europe and China.

The rules for different patent offices around the world are gradually coming into alignment, but some differences remain. Typically, to be eligible for a patent, an invention must be;
# new, or novel
# inventive - that is not obvious, or a small tweak on something that already exists
# a thing that can be made or used (UK), or more generally within the category of ‘things that can be patented’ for a particular patent office
# useful (US)

In general, the US patent office is more open to the list of ‘things that can be patented’, including biological patents and software patents.

===How much does it cost===
It is not easy to get a solid answer to that question, it depends to some extent on how complicated your patent is. But here are some ballpark 2019 figures for the UK.

Patent Costs gov.uk ... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/patent-forms-and-fees/patent-forms-and-fees
(doesn't include those pesky lawyers though!)

In a discussion with Nash Williams they advised that
9 months after the initial patent there will be search report that will cost £300 - £1000 (UK patent).
In additional during the pre-publication & patent pending there may be any number of correction/clarification requests from the Patent office, which will be handled by the patent attorney. The cost of which is £800+ per query. And this might become drawn out and expensive depending on the complexity of the patent situation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Action
! Cost (£ GBP)
|-
| Patent lawyer to write initial patent
| 3000 - 5000
|-
| File patent
| 250
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 1
| 600
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 2
| 700
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 3...
| 800 - 4000
|}

==Strategic considerations==

* '''Grace period''': You can file a patent with the UK IPO, which gives you 12 months to disclose your patent publicly without losing the right to patent in other countries. So you can file the patent, which gives you the right to include the words "patent-pending", and talk to customers, investors, or competitors to gauge the value of your invention before you spend a lot of money with applications in each individual country. The rules are complicated in other countries, see below. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_(patent).

* '''Patent Cooperation Treaty''': This allows you to "buy more time." Before the expiry of the grace period (usually 12 months), you would normally need to file applications in individual countries. But you can also file a Patent Cooperation Treaty application with the WIPO in Geneva, which effectively extends the grace period worldwide for another 18 months. The cost is around £3,700. In total, you can have 2.5 years to gauge the value of your patent before submitting in each country. Two caveats are that (1) several middle-Eastern and Gulf states are not signatories to the PCT; and (2) if you file a PCT application, you cannot file a patent in France, you must instead file a European patent designating France. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent_cooperation_treaty#Publication .

* '''Is it non-obvious?''': In the UK and Europe, IP Offices approach non-obviousness by asking first "what problem does this solve?" And then, "Is the way that it solves the problem inventive?"

* '''UK search''': After filing a patent, you can file a search request at the UK Patent Office. The results normally take 4 months, so people generally do it 6 months before the expiry of the grace period. This will give you an idea of how an examiner will approach an application, and if there are going to be any highly troublesome search results. It's very likely that the most relevant would be found, although this isn't 100% guaranteed. You can then use this to make an informed decision about filing overseas. A UK search costs around £400 plus attorney fees.

* '''Include as many claims as possible''': After submitting a patent application, you can only remove "claims" (individual aspects of novelty or invention), you cannot add them. So you should include as many claims as you find plausible.

* '''DIY patent''': If you can't afford an attorney to write a patent, you could search some of the patents that are relevant for your invention and get inspiration for the style. This option is risky because, if you omit some crucial aspect, or if you use the wrong wording, you can no longer alter it. Per above, you cannot add claims after submission.

* '''micro-entities in the US''': The US IPO offers 75% reduction for micro-entities. Read more at: https://www.uspto.gov/patents-getting-started/general-information-concerning-patents .

* '''Provisional patent application in the US''': you can file this application, which has no review and costs between 65 and 260 dollars, and you can use "patent-pending." Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provisional_patent_application and some advice at https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephenkey/2018/01/08/dont-file-that-patent-yet-file-a-provisional-patent-application-first/

* '''European patent''': Europe can be treated as a single country for patent purposes with a centralised application that is searched and examined, and then translated if successful.

* '''Cancelling and refiling'''': a patent application is not in the public domain, so some inventors cancel the application and refile it to get another 12 months. Beware of the risks.

* '''First-to-invent''': The US has the rule of "first-to-invent". Other countries have the rule of "first-to-file". So, if you file in the US, you may consider mailing yourself a copy of your invention and keep it sealed and dated in case you need to prove you were the first to invent.

* '''Market size''': for consumer goods, you can file in some bigger countries and use the brand to "spill-over" nearby markets. For example, the Canada and the US have such integrated markets, and Canada is so small compared to the US, that it makes little sense to file in both.

===Grace period and disclosure===

The grace period in the UK is not a grace period
per se, as the phrase would be used in the US. In the US, you don't have to
file ANYTHING AT ALL to take advantage of the one-year grace period. You can
publicly disclose, then file a US application up to one year later.

However, if you disclose in the US before an application is filed, this can
destroy novelty in any application that you make OUTSIDE the US subsequent to
this. The grace period only applies inside the US.

In contrast, in the UK, if you don't file an application before you disclose
(and the UK does not use the 'provisional' title - the US and one or two other
countries do, but not the UK), then you have destroyed novelty in any
application that you subsequently file in the UK or any other country without a
grace period.

If you file an application and then disclose, you HAVE TO hit all the downstream
deadlines from that point on. You cannot withdraw and refile, because the
disclosure destroys the novelty of any post-filed application.

== 1st Patenting experience meeting at Makespace ==

'''Patenting Experiences, 2019-11-13, Wed, 7-9pm, MakeSpace classroom, Mill Ln, Cambridge, UK'''

(We can possibly later leave out the event date and time, not structuring the content at all by when it came in, but only add content (incl questions for others) and structure.)

(A few bullet points to get your creative juices flowing…please expand/add/improve at will.)

<nowiki># book recommendations:</nowiki>
* Patent It Yourself by David Pressman
* Patent Pending in 24 Hours with CD by Richard Stim , David Pressman

<nowiki># some grants, e.g. from UK Innovate, come with free IP search budgets</nowiki>

<nowiki># possible extension of time of “patent pending” by withdrawing the patent application and then refiling anew, although this looses the priority date and risks that someone else has filed meanwhile something similar</nowiki>

<nowiki># website: Five IP Offices has a good patent search tool, with links between patents/prior art</nowiki>
* [https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources]

<nowiki># website/youtube channel: InventRightTV</nowiki>
* [https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos]
* [https://www.inventright.com/ https://www.inventright.com/]

<nowiki># various commercialization strategies mentioned:</nowiki>
* Own IP and produce/sell yourself
* License IP without own production or sales
* Get acquired by large firm, save time, enter new game at higher level
* Protect against competition by cooperating with adversary of biggest competitor
* Create sticky consumer brand and outsell the competition
* IP valuation: use an IP actuary or (the cynical view) patent value equals legal defense fees
* General tip: It can be an expensive process and to be worthwhile an IP strategy needs to be very closely tied to the overall business strategy. In addition to the patent research you have started you should also look at the market sizes and potential profit you might expect. Many time, perhaps most, unless there is a clear technology difference, and a large market, and a tenfold cost/benefit improvement over the competition, patents can be more expense than advantage. They can however add to the value of a company if you are looking to sell to a larger player.

<nowiki># protection without patent:</nowiki>
* design
* trademark
* copyright
* effective commercial contracts re manufacturing or sales
* mind space (Federer) / brand equity (Coca Cola) / cult following (Apple)

<nowiki># databases re patents, brands, trademarks, designs, etc:</nowiki>
* Derwent via Cambridge University Library or British Library London
* [https://worldwide.espacenet.com https://worldwide.espacenet.com]
* [https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf]
* [https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/ https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/]
* [http://patft.uspto.gov/ http://patft.uspto.gov/]
* [http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/ http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/]
* [https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html]
* WIPO Guide to Using Patent Information incl Search Strategies [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf]
* WIPO IP Facts and Figures 2018 [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf]
* WIPO Free & Commercial Patent Database Overview: [https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf]

<nowiki># firms that give some free advice:</nowiki>
* many single or company patent lawyers will outline the whole work, give a cost overview, and timelines
* if you were buying a house you'd consult a professional, after all
* Nash Matthews, Hills Rd, CB: they offer ½ hour consultation at no cost, very friendly, bright people

== individual (optionally anonymous) opinions ==

===Miguel, September 2020===

With inventions meant for the general consumer, patents have less value compared to the brand and marketing, e.g. consumers buy the expensive Legos rather than copy-cats. For inventions meant for companies, patents have more value because companies are more price-sensitive and spend more time searching for alternatives, e.g. school districts would not buy the expensive Lego.

Attorneys do not normally have a stake in the patent (e.g., equity in your company) and should give dispassionate and neutral advice. As attorneys have different opinions and experience, you may want to consult with a few, and they normally offer a free half hour. Attorney-client confidentiality means that you do not need to sign a Non-Disclosure Agreement when talking to an attorney.

Exercise judgment before deciding to file a patent. You may end up spending significant time and money when good marketing brand building could have more results.

If, like me, you're the kind of person who likes to publish inventions on Thingiverse and contribute to the community, any of those may be held as prior art against your further inventions, if only because they're yours and will be the first thing that an examiner searches for.

I used and recommend Lock IP for the patent I filed (http://lock-ip.com). The attorney is smart, professional, and rigorous. He was recommended to me by another Makespace member who also filed a patent.

I also had conversations with Basck (http://basck.com/), they are smart, kind, and offer good value-for-money. They have offices in continental Europe, India, Brazil, and the US, so they may be able to offer support in those areas.

------------
(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)

Patenting Experiences

2020-10-28T10:34:13Z

Mmorin:

(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)
------------

Everyone -- whether attendee or not at one of the MakeSpace events in the series of “Patenting Experiences” -- shall be encouraged to contribute to the collective intelligence of this wiki.

It shall help makespacers, entrepreneurs, or inventors navigate the patenting jungle, deal with patent attorneys, save resources, and improve commercial IP value, etc.

Whatever you discover that needs improvement, please fix it ASAP, ideally by respectfully correcting what is not yet right, and by generously adding what is yet missing. Thank you in advance for your wise contributions.

== First Rule of Patents==
... is don’t talk about patents!

Or more accurately, if you think you have a patentable invention, be careful about discussing the specifics about it with anyone until you have the patent filed. Most particularly don’t talk about it on the internet. The risk is that if you accidentally publish the details of your idea, that can constitute prior art that would prevent your patent being issued, or could invalidate your patent if it is later challenged in court. Or that someone you tell casually could write up and patent the idea before you and gain priority.

That said, don’t be too paranoid, just be careful.
You can talk to people about your invention if you have a written non-disclosure agreement (NDA) signed with them.

==What is a Patent==
Officially, a patent is legal document which gives an inventor the legal right to a monopoly to exploit an invention for a period of ~20 years, in exchange for disclosing their invention. In practice, the long term public benefit of disclosing an invention might have made sense in the 19th century, but is no longer particularly. So now patents are largely a way for inventors to protect their idea whilst they try to commercialise it.

Patents are granted by patent offices which typically represent the government of a country and the legal protections of the patent only apply to the territory of that country. So if you just patent in the UK, someone in America is at liberty to read your patent and exploit it America, or any other country, except the UK. You can file patents several patent offices worldwide (usually within a year or two of filing the patent in the first territory), but the costs of paying for all those patents can be very high - think hundreds of thousands of pounds spread over 20 years. For a commercially valuable idea which can generate millions it is worth it, but not all ideas are worth that much. There are strategies of patenting in fewer territories to save costs, but you probably want legal advice to avoid making a mistake.

The patent offices you are most likely to be interested are the UK, USA, Europe and China.

The rules for different patent offices around the world are gradually coming into alignment, but some differences remain. Typically, to be eligible for a patent, an invention must be;
# new, or novel
# inventive - that is not obvious, or a small tweak on something that already exists
# a thing that can be made or used (UK), or more generally within the category of ‘things that can be patented’ for a particular patent office
# useful (US)

In general, the US patent office is more open to the list of ‘things that can be patented’, including biological patents and software patents.

===How much does it cost===
It is not easy to get a solid answer to that question, it depends to some extent on how complicated your patent is. But here are some ballpark 2019 figures for the UK.

Patent Costs gov.uk ... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/patent-forms-and-fees/patent-forms-and-fees
(doesn't include those pesky lawyers though!)

In a discussion with Nash Williams they advised that
9 months after the initial patent there will be search report that will cost £300 - £1000 (UK patent).
In additional during the pre-publication & patent pending there may be any number of correction/clarification requests from the Patent office, which will be handled by the patent attorney. The cost of which is £800+ per query. And this might become drawn out and expensive depending on the complexity of the patent situation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Action
! Cost (£ GBP)
|-
| Patent lawyer to write initial patent
| 3000 - 5000
|-
| File patent
| 250
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 1
| 600
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 2
| 700
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 3...
| 800 - 4000
|}

==Strategic considerations==

* '''Grace period''': You can file a patent with the UK IPO, which gives you 12 months to disclose your patent publicly without losing the right to patent in other countries. So you can file the patent, which gives you the right to include the words "patent-pending", and talk to customers, investors, or competitors to gauge the value of your invention before you spend a lot of money with applications in each individual country. The rules are complicated in other countries, see below. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_(patent).

* '''Patent Cooperation Treaty''': This allows you to "buy more time." Before the expiry of the grace period (usually 12 months), you would normally need to file applications in individual countries. But you can also file a Patent Cooperation Treaty application with the WIPO in Geneva, which effectively extends the grace period worldwide for another 18 months. The cost is around £3,700. In total, you can have 2.5 years to gauge the value of your patent before submitting in each country. Two caveats are that (1) several middle-Eastern and Gulf states are not signatories to the PCT; and (2) if you file a PCT application, you cannot file a patent in France, you must instead file a European patent designating France. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent_cooperation_treaty#Publication .

* '''Is it non-obvious?''': In the UK and Europe, IP Offices approach non-obviousness by asking first "what problem does this solve?" And then, "Is the way that it solves the problem inventive?"

* '''UK search''': After filing a patent, you can file a search request at the UK Patent Office. The results normally take 4 months, so people generally do it 6 months before the expiry of the grace period. This will give you an idea of how an examiner will approach an application, and if there are going to be any highly troublesome search results. It's very likely that the most relevant would be found, although this isn't 100% guaranteed. You can then use this to make an informed decision about filing overseas. A UK search costs around £400 plus attorney fees.

* '''Include as many claims as possible''': After submitting a patent application, you can only remove "claims" (individual aspects of novelty or invention), you cannot add them. So you should include as many claims as you find plausible.

* '''DIY patent''': If you can't afford an attorney to write a patent, you could search some of the patents that are relevant for your invention and get inspiration for the style. This option is risky because, if you omit some crucial aspect, or if you use the wrong wording, you can no longer alter it. Per above, you cannot add claims after submission.

* '''micro-entities in the US''': The US IPO offers 75% reduction for micro-entities. Read more at: https://www.uspto.gov/patents-getting-started/general-information-concerning-patents .

* '''Provisional patent application in the US''': you can file this application, which has no review and costs between 65 and 260 dollars, and you can use "patent-pending." Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provisional_patent_application and some advice at https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephenkey/2018/01/08/dont-file-that-patent-yet-file-a-provisional-patent-application-first/

* '''European patent''': Europe can be treated as a single country for patent purposes with a centralised application that is searched and examined, and then translated if successful.

* '''Cancelling and refiling'''': a patent application is not in the public domain, so some inventors cancel the application and refile it to get another 12 months. Beware of the risks.

* '''First-to-invent''': The US has the rule of "first-to-invent". Other countries have the rule of "first-to-file". So, if you file in the US, you may consider mailing yourself a copy of your invention and keep it sealed and dated in case you need to prove you were the first to invent.

* '''Market size''': for consumer goods, you can file in some bigger countries and use the brand to "spill-over" nearby markets. For example, the Canada and the US have such integrated markets, and Canada is so small compared to the US, that it makes little sense to file in both.

===Grace period and disclosure===

The grace period in the UK is not a grace period
per se, as the phrase would be used in the US. In the US, you don't have to
file ANYTHING AT ALL to take advantage of the one-year grace period. You can
publicly disclose, then file a US application up to one year later.

However, if you disclose in the US before an application is filed, this can
destroy novelty in any application that you make OUTSIDE the US subsequent to
this. The grace period only applies inside the US.

In contrast, in the UK, if you don't file an application before you disclose
(and the UK does not use the 'provisional' title - the US and one or two other
countries do, but not the UK), then you have destroyed novelty in any
application that you subsequently file in the UK or any other country without a
grace period.

If you file an application and then disclose, you HAVE TO hit all the downstream
deadlines from that point on. You cannot withdraw and refile, because the
disclosure destroys the novelty of any post-filed application.

== 1st Patenting experience meeting at Makespace ==

'''Patenting Experiences, 2019-11-13, Wed, 7-9pm, MakeSpace classroom, Mill Ln, Cambridge, UK'''

(We can possibly later leave out the event date and time, not structuring the content at all by when it came in, but only add content (incl questions for others) and structure.)

(A few bullet points to get your creative juices flowing…please expand/add/improve at will.)

<nowiki># book recommendations:</nowiki>
* Patent It Yourself by David Pressman
* Patent Pending in 24 Hours with CD by Richard Stim , David Pressman

<nowiki># some grants, e.g. from UK Innovate, come with free IP search budgets</nowiki>

<nowiki># possible extension of time of “patent pending” by withdrawing the patent application and then refiling anew, although this looses the priority date and risks that someone else has filed meanwhile something similar</nowiki>

<nowiki># website: Five IP Offices has a good patent search tool, with links between patents/prior art</nowiki>
* [https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources]

<nowiki># website/youtube channel: InventRightTV</nowiki>
* [https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos]
* [https://www.inventright.com/ https://www.inventright.com/]

<nowiki># various commercialization strategies mentioned:</nowiki>
* Own IP and produce/sell yourself
* License IP without own production or sales
* Get acquired by large firm, save time, enter new game at higher level
* Protect against competition by cooperating with adversary of biggest competitor
* Create sticky consumer brand and outsell the competition
* IP valuation: use an IP actuary or (the cynical view) patent value equals legal defense fees
* General tip: It can be an expensive process and to be worthwhile an IP strategy needs to be very closely tied to the overall business strategy. In addition to the patent research you have started you should also look at the market sizes and potential profit you might expect. Many time, perhaps most, unless there is a clear technology difference, and a large market, and a tenfold cost/benefit improvement over the competition, patents can be more expense than advantage. They can however add to the value of a company if you are looking to sell to a larger player.

<nowiki># protection without patent:</nowiki>
* design
* trademark
* copyright
* effective commercial contracts re manufacturing or sales
* mind space (Federer) / brand equity (Coca Cola) / cult following (Apple)

<nowiki># databases re patents, brands, trademarks, designs, etc:</nowiki>
* Derwent via Cambridge University Library or British Library London
* [https://worldwide.espacenet.com https://worldwide.espacenet.com]
* [https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf]
* [https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/ https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/]
* [http://patft.uspto.gov/ http://patft.uspto.gov/]
* [http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/ http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/]
* [https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html]
* WIPO Guide to Using Patent Information incl Search Strategies [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf]
* WIPO IP Facts and Figures 2018 [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf]
* WIPO Free & Commercial Patent Database Overview: [https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf]

<nowiki># firms that give some free advice:</nowiki>
* many single or company patent lawyers will outline the whole work, give a cost overview, and timelines
* if you were buying a house you'd consult a professional, after all
* Nash Matthews, Hills Rd, CB: they offer ½ hour consultation at no cost, very friendly, bright people

== individual (optionally anonymous) opinions ==

===Miguel, September 2020===

With inventions meant for the general consumer, patents have less value compared to the brand and marketing, e.g. consumers buy the expensive Legos rather than copy-cats. For inventions meant for companies, patents have more value because companies are more price-sensitive and spend more time searching for alternatives, e.g. school districts would not buy the expensive Lego.

Attorneys do not normally have a stake in the patent (e.g., equity in your company) and should give dispassionate and neutral advice. As attorneys have different opinions and experience, you may want to consult with a few, and they normally offer a free half hour. Attorney-client confidentiality means that you do not need to sign a Non-Disclosure Agreement when talking to an attorney.

Exercise judgment before deciding to file a patent. You may end up spending significant time and money when good marketing brand building could have more results.

If, like me, you're the kind of person who likes to publish inventions on Thingiverse and contribute to the community, any of those may be held as prior art against your further inventions, if only because they're yours and will be the first thing that an examiner searches for.

I used and recommend Lock IP for the patent I filed (lock-ip.com). The attorney is smart, professional, and rigorous. He was recommended to me by another Makespace member who also filed a patent. I also had conversations with Basck (http://basck.com/), they have offices in continental Europe, India, Brazil, and the US, so they may be able to offer support in those areas.

------------
(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)

Patenting Experiences

2020-10-03T10:17:12Z

Mmorin: /* individual (optionally anonymous) opinions */

(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)
------------

Everyone -- whether attendee or not at one of the MakeSpace events in the series of “Patenting Experiences” -- shall be encouraged to contribute to the collective intelligence of this wiki.

It shall help makespacers, entrepreneurs, or inventors navigate the patenting jungle, deal with patent attorneys, save resources, and improve commercial IP value, etc.

Whatever you discover that needs improvement, please fix it ASAP, ideally by respectfully correcting what is not yet right, and by generously adding what is yet missing. Thank you in advance for your wise contributions.

== First Rule of Patents==
... is don’t talk about patents!

Or more accurately, if you think you have a patentable invention, be careful about discussing the specifics about it with anyone until you have the patent filed. Most particularly don’t talk about it on the internet. The risk is that if you accidentally publish the details of your idea, that can constitute prior art that would prevent your patent being issued, or could invalidate your patent if it is later challenged in court. Or that someone you tell casually could write up and patent the idea before you and gain priority.

That said, don’t be too paranoid, just be careful.
You can talk to people about your invention if you have a written non-disclosure agreement (NDA) signed with them.

==What is a Patent==
Officially, a patent is legal document which gives an inventor the legal right to a monopoly to exploit an invention for a period of ~20 years, in exchange for disclosing their invention. In practice, the long term public benefit of disclosing an invention might have made sense in the 19th century, but is no longer particularly. So now patents are largely a way for inventors to protect their idea whilst they try to commercialise it.

Patents are granted by patent offices which typically represent the government of a country and the legal protections of the patent only apply to the territory of that country. So if you just patent in the UK, someone in America is at liberty to read your patent and exploit it America, or any other country, except the UK. You can file patents several patent offices worldwide (usually within a year or two of filing the patent in the first territory), but the costs of paying for all those patents can be very high - think hundreds of thousands of pounds spread over 20 years. For a commercially valuable idea which can generate millions it is worth it, but not all ideas are worth that much. There are strategies of patenting in fewer territories to save costs, but you probably want legal advice to avoid making a mistake.

The patent offices you are most likely to be interested are the UK, USA, Europe and China.

The rules for different patent offices around the world are gradually coming into alignment, but some differences remain. Typically, to be eligible for a patent, an invention must be;
# new, or novel
# inventive - that is not obvious, or a small tweak on something that already exists
# a thing that can be made or used (UK), or more generally within the category of ‘things that can be patented’ for a particular patent office
# useful (US)

In general, the US patent office is more open to the list of ‘things that can be patented’, including biological patents and software patents.

===How much does it cost===
It is not easy to get a solid answer to that question, it depends to some extent on how complicated your patent is. But here are some ballpark 2019 figures for the UK.

Patent Costs gov.uk ... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/patent-forms-and-fees/patent-forms-and-fees
(doesn't include those pesky lawyers though!)

In a discussion with Nash Williams they advised that
9 months after the initial patent there will be search report that will cost £300 - £1000 (UK patent).
In additional during the pre-publication & patent pending there may be any number of correction/clarification requests from the Patent office, which will be handled by the patent attorney. The cost of which is £800+ per query. And this might become drawn out and expensive depending on the complexity of the patent situation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Action
! Cost (£ GBP)
|-
| Patent lawyer to write initial patent
| 3000 - 5000
|-
| File patent
| 250
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 1
| 600
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 2
| 700
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 3...
| 800 - 4000
|}

==Strategic considerations==

* '''Grace period''': You can file a patent with the UK IPO, which gives you 12 months to disclose your patent publicly without losing the right to patent in other countries. So you can file the patent, which gives you the right to include the words "patent-pending", and talk to customers, investors, or competitors to gauge the value of your invention before you spend a lot of money with applications in each individual country. The rules are complicated in other countries, see below. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_(patent).

* '''Patent Cooperation Treaty''': This allows you to "buy more time." Before the expiry of the grace period (usually 12 months), you would normally need to file applications in individual countries. But you can also file a Patent Cooperation Treaty application with the WIPO in Geneva, which effectively extends the grace period worldwide for another 18 months. The cost is around £3,700. In total, you can have 2.5 years to gauge the value of your patent before submitting in each country. Two caveats are that (1) several middle-Eastern and Gulf states are not signatories to the PCT; and (2) if you file a PCT application, you cannot file a patent in France, you must instead file a European patent designating France. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent_cooperation_treaty#Publication .

* '''Is it non-obvious?''': In the UK and Europe, IP Offices approach non-obviousness by asking first "what problem does this solve?" And then, "Is the way that it solves the problem inventive?"

* '''UK search''': After filing a patent, you can file a search request at the UK Patent Office. The results normally take 4 months, so people generally do it 6 months before the expiry of the grace period. This will give you an idea of how an examiner will approach an application, and if there are going to be any highly troublesome search results. It's very likely that the most relevant would be found, although this isn't 100% guaranteed. You can then use this to make an informed decision about filing overseas. A UK search costs around £400 plus attorney fees.

* '''Include as many claims as possible''': After submitting a patent application, you can only remove "claims" (individual aspects of novelty or invention), you cannot add them. So you should include as many claims as you find plausible.

* '''DIY patent''': If you can't afford an attorney to write a patent, you could search some of the patents that are relevant for your invention and get inspiration for the style. This option is risky because, if you omit some crucial aspect, or if you use the wrong wording, you can no longer alter it. Per above, you cannot add claims after submission.

* '''micro-entities in the US''': The US IPO offers 75% reduction for micro-entities. Read more at: https://www.uspto.gov/patents-getting-started/general-information-concerning-patents .

* '''Provisional patent application in the US''': you can file this application, which has no review and costs between 65 and 260 dollars, and you can use "patent-pending." Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provisional_patent_application and some advice at https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephenkey/2018/01/08/dont-file-that-patent-yet-file-a-provisional-patent-application-first/

* '''European patent''': Europe can be treated as a single country for patent purposes with a centralised application that is searched and examined, and then translated if successful.

* '''Cancelling and refiling'''': a patent application is not in the public domain, so some inventors cancel the application and refile it to get another 12 months. Beware of the risks.

* '''First-to-invent''': The US has the rule of "first-to-invent". Other countries have the rule of "first-to-file". So, if you file in the US, you may consider mailing yourself a copy of your invention and keep it sealed and dated in case you need to prove you were the first to invent.

* '''Market size''': for consumer goods, you can file in some bigger countries and use the brand to "spill-over" nearby markets. For example, the Canada and the US have such integrated markets, and Canada is so small compared to the US, that it makes little sense to file in both.

===Grace period and disclosure===

The grace period in the UK is not a grace period
per se, as the phrase would be used in the US. In the US, you don't have to
file ANYTHING AT ALL to take advantage of the one-year grace period. You can
publicly disclose, then file a US application up to one year later.

However, if you disclose in the US before an application is filed, this can
destroy novelty in any application that you make OUTSIDE the US subsequent to
this. The grace period only applies inside the US.

In contrast, in the UK, if you don't file an application before you disclose
(and the UK does not use the 'provisional' title - the US and one or two other
countries do, but not the UK), then you have destroyed novelty in any
application that you subsequently file in the UK or any other country without a
grace period.

If you file an application and then disclose, you HAVE TO hit all the downstream
deadlines from that point on. You cannot withdraw and refile, because the
disclosure destroys the novelty of any post-filed application.

== 1st Patenting experience meeting at Makespace ==

'''Patenting Experiences, 2019-11-13, Wed, 7-9pm, MakeSpace classroom, Mill Ln, Cambridge, UK'''

(We can possibly later leave out the event date and time, not structuring the content at all by when it came in, but only add content (incl questions for others) and structure.)

(A few bullet points to get your creative juices flowing…please expand/add/improve at will.)

<nowiki># book recommendations:</nowiki>
* Patent It Yourself by David Pressman
* Patent Pending in 24 Hours with CD by Richard Stim , David Pressman

<nowiki># some grants, e.g. from UK Innovate, come with free IP search budgets</nowiki>

<nowiki># possible extension of time of “patent pending” by withdrawing the patent application and then refiling anew, although this looses the priority date and risks that someone else has filed meanwhile something similar</nowiki>

<nowiki># website: Five IP Offices has a good patent search tool, with links between patents/prior art</nowiki>
* [https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources]

<nowiki># website/youtube channel: InventRightTV</nowiki>
* [https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos]
* [https://www.inventright.com/ https://www.inventright.com/]

<nowiki># various commercialization strategies mentioned:</nowiki>
* Own IP and produce/sell yourself
* License IP without own production or sales
* Get acquired by large firm, save time, enter new game at higher level
* Protect against competition by cooperating with adversary of biggest competitor
* Create sticky consumer brand and outsell the competition
* IP valuation: use an IP actuary or (the cynical view) patent value equals legal defense fees
* General tip: It can be an expensive process and to be worthwhile an IP strategy needs to be very closely tied to the overall business strategy. In addition to the patent research you have started you should also look at the market sizes and potential profit you might expect. Many time, perhaps most, unless there is a clear technology difference, and a large market, and a tenfold cost/benefit improvement over the competition, patents can be more expense than advantage. They can however add to the value of a company if you are looking to sell to a larger player.

<nowiki># protection without patent:</nowiki>
* design
* trademark
* copyright
* effective commercial contracts re manufacturing or sales
* mind space (Federer) / brand equity (Coca Cola) / cult following (Apple)

<nowiki># databases re patents, brands, trademarks, designs, etc:</nowiki>
* Derwent via Cambridge University Library or British Library London
* [https://worldwide.espacenet.com https://worldwide.espacenet.com]
* [https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf]
* [https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/ https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/]
* [http://patft.uspto.gov/ http://patft.uspto.gov/]
* [http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/ http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/]
* [https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html]
* WIPO Guide to Using Patent Information incl Search Strategies [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf]
* WIPO IP Facts and Figures 2018 [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf]
* WIPO Free & Commercial Patent Database Overview: [https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf]

<nowiki># firms that give some free advice:</nowiki>
* many single or company patent lawyers will outline the whole work, give a cost overview, and timelines
* if you were buying a house you'd consult a professional, after all
* Nash Matthews, Hills Rd, CB: they offer ½ hour consultation at no cost, very friendly, bright people

== individual (optionally anonymous) opinions ==

===Miguel, September 2020===

With inventions meant for the general consumer, patents have less value compared to the brand and marketing, e.g. consumers buy the expensive Legos rather than copy-cats. For inventions meant for companies, patents have more value because companies are more price-sensitive and spend more time searching for alternatives, e.g. school districts would not buy the expensive Lego.

Attorneys do not normally have a stake in the patent (e.g., equity in your company) and should give dispassionate and neutral advice. As attorneys have different opinions and experience, you may want to consult with a few, and they normally offer a free half hour. Attorney-client confidentiality means that you do not need to sign a Non-Disclosure Agreement when talking to an attorney.

Exercise judgment before deciding to file a patent. You may end up spending significant time and money when good marketing brand building could have more results.

If, like me, you're the kind of person who likes to publish inventions on Thingiverse and contribute to the community, any of those may be held as prior art against your further inventions, if only because they're yours and will be the first thing that an examiner searches for.

I used and recommend Lock IP for the patent I filed (lock-ip.com). The attorney is smart, professional, and rigorous. He was recommended to me by another Makespace member who also filed a patent.

------------
(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)

Patenting Experiences

2020-09-29T20:43:35Z

Mmorin: /* Miguel, September 2020 */

(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)
------------

Everyone -- whether attendee or not at one of the MakeSpace events in the series of “Patenting Experiences” -- shall be encouraged to contribute to the collective intelligence of this wiki.

It shall help makespacers, entrepreneurs, or inventors navigate the patenting jungle, deal with patent attorneys, save resources, and improve commercial IP value, etc.

Whatever you discover that needs improvement, please fix it ASAP, ideally by respectfully correcting what is not yet right, and by generously adding what is yet missing. Thank you in advance for your wise contributions.

== First Rule of Patents==
... is don’t talk about patents!

Or more accurately, if you think you have a patentable invention, be careful about discussing the specifics about it with anyone until you have the patent filed. Most particularly don’t talk about it on the internet. The risk is that if you accidentally publish the details of your idea, that can constitute prior art that would prevent your patent being issued, or could invalidate your patent if it is later challenged in court. Or that someone you tell casually could write up and patent the idea before you and gain priority.

That said, don’t be too paranoid, just be careful.
You can talk to people about your invention if you have a written non-disclosure agreement (NDA) signed with them.

==What is a Patent==
Officially, a patent is legal document which gives an inventor the legal right to a monopoly to exploit an invention for a period of ~20 years, in exchange for disclosing their invention. In practice, the long term public benefit of disclosing an invention might have made sense in the 19th century, but is no longer particularly. So now patents are largely a way for inventors to protect their idea whilst they try to commercialise it.

Patents are granted by patent offices which typically represent the government of a country and the legal protections of the patent only apply to the territory of that country. So if you just patent in the UK, someone in America is at liberty to read your patent and exploit it America, or any other country, except the UK. You can file patents several patent offices worldwide (usually within a year or two of filing the patent in the first territory), but the costs of paying for all those patents can be very high - think hundreds of thousands of pounds spread over 20 years. For a commercially valuable idea which can generate millions it is worth it, but not all ideas are worth that much. There are strategies of patenting in fewer territories to save costs, but you probably want legal advice to avoid making a mistake.

The patent offices you are most likely to be interested are the UK, USA, Europe and China.

The rules for different patent offices around the world are gradually coming into alignment, but some differences remain. Typically, to be eligible for a patent, an invention must be;
# new, or novel
# inventive - that is not obvious, or a small tweak on something that already exists
# a thing that can be made or used (UK), or more generally within the category of ‘things that can be patented’ for a particular patent office
# useful (US)

In general, the US patent office is more open to the list of ‘things that can be patented’, including biological patents and software patents.

===How much does it cost===
It is not easy to get a solid answer to that question, it depends to some extent on how complicated your patent is. But here are some ballpark 2019 figures for the UK.

Patent Costs gov.uk ... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/patent-forms-and-fees/patent-forms-and-fees
(doesn't include those pesky lawyers though!)

In a discussion with Nash Williams they advised that
9 months after the initial patent there will be search report that will cost £300 - £1000 (UK patent).
In additional during the pre-publication & patent pending there may be any number of correction/clarification requests from the Patent office, which will be handled by the patent attorney. The cost of which is £800+ per query. And this might become drawn out and expensive depending on the complexity of the patent situation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Action
! Cost (£ GBP)
|-
| Patent lawyer to write initial patent
| 3000 - 5000
|-
| File patent
| 250
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 1
| 600
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 2
| 700
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 3...
| 800 - 4000
|}

==Strategic considerations==

* '''Grace period''': You can file a patent with the UK IPO, which gives you 12 months to disclose your patent publicly without losing the right to patent in other countries. So you can file the patent, which gives you the right to include the words "patent-pending", and talk to customers, investors, or competitors to gauge the value of your invention before you spend a lot of money with applications in each individual country. The rules are complicated in other countries, see below. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_(patent).

* '''Patent Cooperation Treaty''': This allows you to "buy more time." Before the expiry of the grace period (usually 12 months), you would normally need to file applications in individual countries. But you can also file a Patent Cooperation Treaty application with the WIPO in Geneva, which effectively extends the grace period worldwide for another 18 months. The cost is around £3,700. In total, you can have 2.5 years to gauge the value of your patent before submitting in each country. Two caveats are that (1) several middle-Eastern and Gulf states are not signatories to the PCT; and (2) if you file a PCT application, you cannot file a patent in France, you must instead file a European patent designating France. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent_cooperation_treaty#Publication .

* '''Is it non-obvious?''': In the UK and Europe, IP Offices approach non-obviousness by asking first "what problem does this solve?" And then, "Is the way that it solves the problem inventive?"

* '''UK search''': After filing a patent, you can file a search request at the UK Patent Office. The results normally take 4 months, so people generally do it 6 months before the expiry of the grace period. This will give you an idea of how an examiner will approach an application, and if there are going to be any highly troublesome search results. It's very likely that the most relevant would be found, although this isn't 100% guaranteed. You can then use this to make an informed decision about filing overseas. A UK search costs around £400 plus attorney fees.

* '''Include as many claims as possible''': After submitting a patent application, you can only remove "claims" (individual aspects of novelty or invention), you cannot add them. So you should include as many claims as you find plausible.

* '''DIY patent''': If you can't afford an attorney to write a patent, you could search some of the patents that are relevant for your invention and get inspiration for the style. This option is risky because, if you omit some crucial aspect, or if you use the wrong wording, you can no longer alter it. Per above, you cannot add claims after submission.

* '''micro-entities in the US''': The US IPO offers 75% reduction for micro-entities. Read more at: https://www.uspto.gov/patents-getting-started/general-information-concerning-patents .

* '''Provisional patent application in the US''': you can file this application, which has no review and costs between 65 and 260 dollars, and you can use "patent-pending." Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provisional_patent_application and some advice at https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephenkey/2018/01/08/dont-file-that-patent-yet-file-a-provisional-patent-application-first/

* '''European patent''': Europe can be treated as a single country for patent purposes with a centralised application that is searched and examined, and then translated if successful.

* '''Cancelling and refiling'''': a patent application is not in the public domain, so some inventors cancel the application and refile it to get another 12 months. Beware of the risks.

* '''First-to-invent''': The US has the rule of "first-to-invent". Other countries have the rule of "first-to-file". So, if you file in the US, you may consider mailing yourself a copy of your invention and keep it sealed and dated in case you need to prove you were the first to invent.

* '''Market size''': for consumer goods, you can file in some bigger countries and use the brand to "spill-over" nearby markets. For example, the Canada and the US have such integrated markets, and Canada is so small compared to the US, that it makes little sense to file in both.

===Grace period and disclosure===

The grace period in the UK is not a grace period
per se, as the phrase would be used in the US. In the US, you don't have to
file ANYTHING AT ALL to take advantage of the one-year grace period. You can
publicly disclose, then file a US application up to one year later.

However, if you disclose in the US before an application is filed, this can
destroy novelty in any application that you make OUTSIDE the US subsequent to
this. The grace period only applies inside the US.

In contrast, in the UK, if you don't file an application before you disclose
(and the UK does not use the 'provisional' title - the US and one or two other
countries do, but not the UK), then you have destroyed novelty in any
application that you subsequently file in the UK or any other country without a
grace period.

If you file an application and then disclose, you HAVE TO hit all the downstream
deadlines from that point on. You cannot withdraw and refile, because the
disclosure destroys the novelty of any post-filed application.

== 1st Patenting experience meeting at Makespace ==

'''Patenting Experiences, 2019-11-13, Wed, 7-9pm, MakeSpace classroom, Mill Ln, Cambridge, UK'''

(We can possibly later leave out the event date and time, not structuring the content at all by when it came in, but only add content (incl questions for others) and structure.)

(A few bullet points to get your creative juices flowing…please expand/add/improve at will.)

<nowiki># book recommendations:</nowiki>
* Patent It Yourself by David Pressman
* Patent Pending in 24 Hours with CD by Richard Stim , David Pressman

<nowiki># some grants, e.g. from UK Innovate, come with free IP search budgets</nowiki>

<nowiki># possible extension of time of “patent pending” by withdrawing the patent application and then refiling anew, although this looses the priority date and risks that someone else has filed meanwhile something similar</nowiki>

<nowiki># website: Five IP Offices has a good patent search tool, with links between patents/prior art</nowiki>
* [https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources]

<nowiki># website/youtube channel: InventRightTV</nowiki>
* [https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos]
* [https://www.inventright.com/ https://www.inventright.com/]

<nowiki># various commercialization strategies mentioned:</nowiki>
* Own IP and produce/sell yourself
* License IP without own production or sales
* Get acquired by large firm, save time, enter new game at higher level
* Protect against competition by cooperating with adversary of biggest competitor
* Create sticky consumer brand and outsell the competition
* IP valuation: use an IP actuary or (the cynical view) patent value equals legal defense fees
* General tip: It can be an expensive process and to be worthwhile an IP strategy needs to be very closely tied to the overall business strategy. In addition to the patent research you have started you should also look at the market sizes and potential profit you might expect. Many time, perhaps most, unless there is a clear technology difference, and a large market, and a tenfold cost/benefit improvement over the competition, patents can be more expense than advantage. They can however add to the value of a company if you are looking to sell to a larger player.

<nowiki># protection without patent:</nowiki>
* design
* trademark
* copyright
* effective commercial contracts re manufacturing or sales
* mind space (Federer) / brand equity (Coca Cola) / cult following (Apple)

<nowiki># databases re patents, brands, trademarks, designs, etc:</nowiki>
* Derwent via Cambridge University Library or British Library London
* [https://worldwide.espacenet.com https://worldwide.espacenet.com]
* [https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf]
* [https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/ https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/]
* [http://patft.uspto.gov/ http://patft.uspto.gov/]
* [http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/ http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/]
* [https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html]
* WIPO Guide to Using Patent Information incl Search Strategies [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf]
* WIPO IP Facts and Figures 2018 [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf]
* WIPO Free & Commercial Patent Database Overview: [https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf]

<nowiki># firms that give some free advice:</nowiki>
* many single or company patent lawyers will outline the whole work, give a cost overview, and timelines
* if you were buying a house you'd consult a professional, after all
* Nash Matthews, Hills Rd, CB: they offer ½ hour consultation at no cost, very friendly, bright people

== individual (optionally anonymous) opinions ==

===Miguel, September 2020===

With inventions meant for the general consumer, patents have less value compared to the brand and marketing, e.g. consumers buy the expensive Legos rather than copy-cats. For inventions meant for companies, patents have more value because companies are more price-sensitive and spend more time searching for alternatives, e.g. school districts would not buy the expensive Lego.

Attorneys do not normally have a stake in the patent (e.g., equity in your company) and should give dispassionate and neutral advice. As attorneys have different opinions and experience, you may want to consult with a few, and they normally offer a free half hour. Attorney-client confidentiality means that you do not need to sign a Non-Disclosure Agreement when talking to an attorney.

Exercise judgment before deciding to file a patent. You may end up spending significant time and money when good marketing brand building could have more results.

If, like me, you're the kind of person who likes to publish inventions on Thingiverse and contribute to the community, any of those may be held as prior art against your further inventions, if only because they're yours and will be the first thing that an examiner searches for.

------------
(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)

Patenting Experiences

2020-09-29T20:42:25Z

Mmorin:

(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)
------------

Everyone -- whether attendee or not at one of the MakeSpace events in the series of “Patenting Experiences” -- shall be encouraged to contribute to the collective intelligence of this wiki.

It shall help makespacers, entrepreneurs, or inventors navigate the patenting jungle, deal with patent attorneys, save resources, and improve commercial IP value, etc.

Whatever you discover that needs improvement, please fix it ASAP, ideally by respectfully correcting what is not yet right, and by generously adding what is yet missing. Thank you in advance for your wise contributions.

== First Rule of Patents==
... is don’t talk about patents!

Or more accurately, if you think you have a patentable invention, be careful about discussing the specifics about it with anyone until you have the patent filed. Most particularly don’t talk about it on the internet. The risk is that if you accidentally publish the details of your idea, that can constitute prior art that would prevent your patent being issued, or could invalidate your patent if it is later challenged in court. Or that someone you tell casually could write up and patent the idea before you and gain priority.

That said, don’t be too paranoid, just be careful.
You can talk to people about your invention if you have a written non-disclosure agreement (NDA) signed with them.

==What is a Patent==
Officially, a patent is legal document which gives an inventor the legal right to a monopoly to exploit an invention for a period of ~20 years, in exchange for disclosing their invention. In practice, the long term public benefit of disclosing an invention might have made sense in the 19th century, but is no longer particularly. So now patents are largely a way for inventors to protect their idea whilst they try to commercialise it.

Patents are granted by patent offices which typically represent the government of a country and the legal protections of the patent only apply to the territory of that country. So if you just patent in the UK, someone in America is at liberty to read your patent and exploit it America, or any other country, except the UK. You can file patents several patent offices worldwide (usually within a year or two of filing the patent in the first territory), but the costs of paying for all those patents can be very high - think hundreds of thousands of pounds spread over 20 years. For a commercially valuable idea which can generate millions it is worth it, but not all ideas are worth that much. There are strategies of patenting in fewer territories to save costs, but you probably want legal advice to avoid making a mistake.

The patent offices you are most likely to be interested are the UK, USA, Europe and China.

The rules for different patent offices around the world are gradually coming into alignment, but some differences remain. Typically, to be eligible for a patent, an invention must be;
# new, or novel
# inventive - that is not obvious, or a small tweak on something that already exists
# a thing that can be made or used (UK), or more generally within the category of ‘things that can be patented’ for a particular patent office
# useful (US)

In general, the US patent office is more open to the list of ‘things that can be patented’, including biological patents and software patents.

===How much does it cost===
It is not easy to get a solid answer to that question, it depends to some extent on how complicated your patent is. But here are some ballpark 2019 figures for the UK.

Patent Costs gov.uk ... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/patent-forms-and-fees/patent-forms-and-fees
(doesn't include those pesky lawyers though!)

In a discussion with Nash Williams they advised that
9 months after the initial patent there will be search report that will cost £300 - £1000 (UK patent).
In additional during the pre-publication & patent pending there may be any number of correction/clarification requests from the Patent office, which will be handled by the patent attorney. The cost of which is £800+ per query. And this might become drawn out and expensive depending on the complexity of the patent situation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Action
! Cost (£ GBP)
|-
| Patent lawyer to write initial patent
| 3000 - 5000
|-
| File patent
| 250
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 1
| 600
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 2
| 700
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 3...
| 800 - 4000
|}

==Strategic considerations==

* '''Grace period''': You can file a patent with the UK IPO, which gives you 12 months to disclose your patent publicly without losing the right to patent in other countries. So you can file the patent, which gives you the right to include the words "patent-pending", and talk to customers, investors, or competitors to gauge the value of your invention before you spend a lot of money with applications in each individual country. The rules are complicated in other countries, see below. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_(patent).

* '''Patent Cooperation Treaty''': This allows you to "buy more time." Before the expiry of the grace period (usually 12 months), you would normally need to file applications in individual countries. But you can also file a Patent Cooperation Treaty application with the WIPO in Geneva, which effectively extends the grace period worldwide for another 18 months. The cost is around £3,700. In total, you can have 2.5 years to gauge the value of your patent before submitting in each country. Two caveats are that (1) several middle-Eastern and Gulf states are not signatories to the PCT; and (2) if you file a PCT application, you cannot file a patent in France, you must instead file a European patent designating France. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent_cooperation_treaty#Publication .

* '''Is it non-obvious?''': In the UK and Europe, IP Offices approach non-obviousness by asking first "what problem does this solve?" And then, "Is the way that it solves the problem inventive?"

* '''UK search''': After filing a patent, you can file a search request at the UK Patent Office. The results normally take 4 months, so people generally do it 6 months before the expiry of the grace period. This will give you an idea of how an examiner will approach an application, and if there are going to be any highly troublesome search results. It's very likely that the most relevant would be found, although this isn't 100% guaranteed. You can then use this to make an informed decision about filing overseas. A UK search costs around £400 plus attorney fees.

* '''Include as many claims as possible''': After submitting a patent application, you can only remove "claims" (individual aspects of novelty or invention), you cannot add them. So you should include as many claims as you find plausible.

* '''DIY patent''': If you can't afford an attorney to write a patent, you could search some of the patents that are relevant for your invention and get inspiration for the style. This option is risky because, if you omit some crucial aspect, or if you use the wrong wording, you can no longer alter it. Per above, you cannot add claims after submission.

* '''micro-entities in the US''': The US IPO offers 75% reduction for micro-entities. Read more at: https://www.uspto.gov/patents-getting-started/general-information-concerning-patents .

* '''Provisional patent application in the US''': you can file this application, which has no review and costs between 65 and 260 dollars, and you can use "patent-pending." Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provisional_patent_application and some advice at https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephenkey/2018/01/08/dont-file-that-patent-yet-file-a-provisional-patent-application-first/

* '''European patent''': Europe can be treated as a single country for patent purposes with a centralised application that is searched and examined, and then translated if successful.

* '''Cancelling and refiling'''': a patent application is not in the public domain, so some inventors cancel the application and refile it to get another 12 months. Beware of the risks.

* '''First-to-invent''': The US has the rule of "first-to-invent". Other countries have the rule of "first-to-file". So, if you file in the US, you may consider mailing yourself a copy of your invention and keep it sealed and dated in case you need to prove you were the first to invent.

* '''Market size''': for consumer goods, you can file in some bigger countries and use the brand to "spill-over" nearby markets. For example, the Canada and the US have such integrated markets, and Canada is so small compared to the US, that it makes little sense to file in both.

===Grace period and disclosure===

The grace period in the UK is not a grace period
per se, as the phrase would be used in the US. In the US, you don't have to
file ANYTHING AT ALL to take advantage of the one-year grace period. You can
publicly disclose, then file a US application up to one year later.

However, if you disclose in the US before an application is filed, this can
destroy novelty in any application that you make OUTSIDE the US subsequent to
this. The grace period only applies inside the US.

In contrast, in the UK, if you don't file an application before you disclose
(and the UK does not use the 'provisional' title - the US and one or two other
countries do, but not the UK), then you have destroyed novelty in any
application that you subsequently file in the UK or any other country without a
grace period.

If you file an application and then disclose, you HAVE TO hit all the downstream
deadlines from that point on. You cannot withdraw and refile, because the
disclosure destroys the novelty of any post-filed application.

== 1st Patenting experience meeting at Makespace ==

'''Patenting Experiences, 2019-11-13, Wed, 7-9pm, MakeSpace classroom, Mill Ln, Cambridge, UK'''

(We can possibly later leave out the event date and time, not structuring the content at all by when it came in, but only add content (incl questions for others) and structure.)

(A few bullet points to get your creative juices flowing…please expand/add/improve at will.)

<nowiki># book recommendations:</nowiki>
* Patent It Yourself by David Pressman
* Patent Pending in 24 Hours with CD by Richard Stim , David Pressman

<nowiki># some grants, e.g. from UK Innovate, come with free IP search budgets</nowiki>

<nowiki># possible extension of time of “patent pending” by withdrawing the patent application and then refiling anew, although this looses the priority date and risks that someone else has filed meanwhile something similar</nowiki>

<nowiki># website: Five IP Offices has a good patent search tool, with links between patents/prior art</nowiki>
* [https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources]

<nowiki># website/youtube channel: InventRightTV</nowiki>
* [https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos]
* [https://www.inventright.com/ https://www.inventright.com/]

<nowiki># various commercialization strategies mentioned:</nowiki>
* Own IP and produce/sell yourself
* License IP without own production or sales
* Get acquired by large firm, save time, enter new game at higher level
* Protect against competition by cooperating with adversary of biggest competitor
* Create sticky consumer brand and outsell the competition
* IP valuation: use an IP actuary or (the cynical view) patent value equals legal defense fees
* General tip: It can be an expensive process and to be worthwhile an IP strategy needs to be very closely tied to the overall business strategy. In addition to the patent research you have started you should also look at the market sizes and potential profit you might expect. Many time, perhaps most, unless there is a clear technology difference, and a large market, and a tenfold cost/benefit improvement over the competition, patents can be more expense than advantage. They can however add to the value of a company if you are looking to sell to a larger player.

<nowiki># protection without patent:</nowiki>
* design
* trademark
* copyright
* effective commercial contracts re manufacturing or sales
* mind space (Federer) / brand equity (Coca Cola) / cult following (Apple)

<nowiki># databases re patents, brands, trademarks, designs, etc:</nowiki>
* Derwent via Cambridge University Library or British Library London
* [https://worldwide.espacenet.com https://worldwide.espacenet.com]
* [https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf]
* [https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/ https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/]
* [http://patft.uspto.gov/ http://patft.uspto.gov/]
* [http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/ http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/]
* [https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html]
* WIPO Guide to Using Patent Information incl Search Strategies [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf]
* WIPO IP Facts and Figures 2018 [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf]
* WIPO Free & Commercial Patent Database Overview: [https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf]

<nowiki># firms that give some free advice:</nowiki>
* many single or company patent lawyers will outline the whole work, give a cost overview, and timelines
* if you were buying a house you'd consult a professional, after all
* Nash Matthews, Hills Rd, CB: they offer ½ hour consultation at no cost, very friendly, bright people

== individual (optionally anonymous) opinions ==

===Miguel, September 2020===

With inventions meant for the general consumer, patents have less value compared to the brand and marketing, e.g. consumers buy the expensive Legos rather than copy-cats. For inventions meant for companies, patents have more value because companies are more price-sensitive and spend more time searching for alternatives, e.g. school districts would not buy the expensive Lego.

Attorneys do not normally have a stake in the patent (e.g., equity in your company) and should give dispassionate and neutral advice. As attorneys have different opinions and track records, you may want to consult with a few, and they normally offer a free half hour.

Exercise judgment before deciding to file a patent. You may end up spending significant time and money when good marketing brand building could have more results.

If, like me, you're the kind of person who likes to publish inventions on Thingiverse and contribute to the community, any of those may be held as prior art against your further inventions, if only because they're yours and will be the first thing that an examiner searches for.

------------
(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)

Patenting Experiences

2020-09-27T16:10:17Z

Mmorin: /* Strategic considerations */

(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)
------------

Everyone -- whether attendee or not at one of the MakeSpace events in the series of “Patenting Experiences” -- shall be encouraged to contribute to the collective intelligence of this wiki.

It shall help makespacers, entrepreneurs, or inventors navigate the patenting jungle, deal with patent attorneys, save resources, and improve commercial IP value, etc.

Whatever you discover that needs improvement, please fix it ASAP, ideally by respectfully correcting what is not yet right, and by generously adding what is yet missing. Thank you in advance for your wise contributions.

== First Rule of Patents==
... is don’t talk about patents!

Or more accurately, if you think you have a patentable invention, be careful about discussing the specifics about it with anyone until you have the patent filed. Most particularly don’t talk about it on the internet. The risk is that if you accidentally publish the details of your idea, that can constitute prior art that would prevent your patent being issued, or could invalidate your patent if it is later challenged in court. Or that someone you tell casually could write up and patent the idea before you and gain priority.

That said, don’t be too paranoid, just be careful.
You can talk to people about your invention if you have a written non-disclosure agreement (NDA) signed with them.

==What is a Patent==
Officially, a patent is legal document which gives an inventor the legal right to a monopoly to exploit an invention for a period of ~20 years, in exchange for disclosing their invention. In practice, the long term public benefit of disclosing an invention might have made sense in the 19th century, but is no longer particularly. So now patents are largely a way for inventors to protect their idea whilst they try to commercialise it.

Patents are granted by patent offices which typically represent the government of a country and the legal protections of the patent only apply to the territory of that country. So if you just patent in the UK, someone in America is at liberty to read your patent and exploit it America, or any other country, except the UK. You can file patents several patent offices worldwide (usually within a year or two of filing the patent in the first territory), but the costs of paying for all those patents can be very high - think hundreds of thousands of pounds spread over 20 years. For a commercially valuable idea which can generate millions it is worth it, but not all ideas are worth that much. There are strategies of patenting in fewer territories to save costs, but you probably want legal advice to avoid making a mistake.

The patent offices you are most likely to be interested are the UK, USA, Europe and China.

The rules for different patent offices around the world are gradually coming into alignment, but some differences remain. Typically, to be eligible for a patent, an invention must be;
# new, or novel
# inventive - that is not obvious, or a small tweak on something that already exists
# a thing that can be made or used (UK), or more generally within the category of ‘things that can be patented’ for a particular patent office
# useful (US)

In general, the US patent office is more open to the list of ‘things that can be patented’, including biological patents and software patents.

===How much does it cost===
It is not easy to get a solid answer to that question, it depends to some extent on how complicated your patent is. But here are some ballpark 2019 figures for the UK.

Patent Costs gov.uk ... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/patent-forms-and-fees/patent-forms-and-fees
(doesn't include those pesky lawyers though!)

In a discussion with Nash Williams they advised that
9 months after the initial patent there will be search report that will cost £300 - £1000 (UK patent).
In additional during the pre-publication & patent pending there may be any number of correction/clarification requests from the Patent office, which will be handled by the patent attorney. The cost of which is £800+ per query. And this might become drawn out and expensive depending on the complexity of the patent situation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Action
! Cost (£ GBP)
|-
| Patent lawyer to write initial patent
| 3000 - 5000
|-
| File patent
| 250
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 1
| 600
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 2
| 700
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 3...
| 800 - 4000
|}

==Strategic considerations==

* '''Grace period''': You can file a patent with the UK IPO, which gives you 12 months to disclose your patent publicly without losing the right to patent in other countries. So you can file the patent, which gives you the right to include the words "patent-pending", and talk to customers, investors, or competitors to gauge the value of your invention before you spend a lot of money with applications in each individual country. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_(patent).

* '''Patent Cooperation Treaty''': This allows you to "buy more time." Before the expiry of the grace period (usually 12 months), you would normally need to file applications in individual countries. But you can also file a Patent Cooperation Treaty application with the WIPO in Geneva, which effectively extends the grace period worldwide for another 18 months. The cost is around £3,700. In total, you can have 2.5 years to gauge the value of your patent before submitting in each country. Two caveats are that (1) several middle-Eastern and Gulf states are not signatories to the PCT; and (2) if you file a PCT application, you cannot file a patent in France, you must instead file a European patent designating France. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent_cooperation_treaty#Publication .

* '''Is it non-obvious?''': In the UK and Europe, IP Offices approach non-obviousness by asking first "what problem does this solve?" And then, "Is the way that it solves the problem inventive?"

* '''UK search''': After filing a patent, you can file a search request at the UK Patent Office. The results normally take 4 months, so people generally do it 6 months before the expiry of the grace period. This will give you an idea of how an examiner will approach an application, and if there are going to be any highly troublesome search results. It's very likely that the most relevant would be found, although this isn't 100% guaranteed. You can then use this to make an informed decision about filing overseas. A UK search costs around £400 plus attorney fees.

* '''Include as many claims as possible''': After submitting a patent application, you can only remove "claims" (individual aspects of novelty or invention), you cannot add them. So you should include as many claims as you find plausible.

* '''DIY patent''': If you can't afford an attorney to write a patent, you could search some of the patents that are relevant for your invention and get inspiration for the style. This option is risky because, if you omit some crucial aspect, or if you use the wrong wording, you can no longer alter it. Per above, you cannot add claims after submission.

* '''micro-entities in the US''': The US IPO offers 75% reduction for micro-entities. Read more at: https://www.uspto.gov/patents-getting-started/general-information-concerning-patents .

* '''Provisional patent application in the US''': you can file this application, which has no review and costs between 65 and 260 dollars, and you can use "patent-pending." Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provisional_patent_application and some advice at https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephenkey/2018/01/08/dont-file-that-patent-yet-file-a-provisional-patent-application-first/

* '''European patent''': Europe can be treated as a single country for patent purposes with a centralised application that is searched and examined, and then translated if successful.

* '''Cancelling and refiling'''': a patent application is not in the public domain, so some inventors cancel the application and refile it to get another 12 months. Beware of the risks.

* '''First-to-invent''': The US has the rule of "first-to-invent". Other countries have the rule of "first-to-file". So, if you file in the US, you may consider mailing yourself a copy of your invention and keep it sealed and dated in case you need to prove you were the first to invent.

* '''Market size''': for consumer goods, you can file in some bigger countries and use the brand to "spill-over" nearby markets. For example, the Canada and the US have such integrated markets, and Canada is so small compared to the US, that it makes little sense to file in both.

== 1st Patenting experience meeting at Makespace ==

'''Patenting Experiences, 2019-11-13, Wed, 7-9pm, MakeSpace classroom, Mill Ln, Cambridge, UK'''

(We can possibly later leave out the event date and time, not structuring the content at all by when it came in, but only add content (incl questions for others) and structure.)

(A few bullet points to get your creative juices flowing…please expand/add/improve at will.)

<nowiki># book recommendations:</nowiki>
* Patent It Yourself by David Pressman
* Patent Pending in 24 Hours with CD by Richard Stim , David Pressman

<nowiki># some grants, e.g. from UK Innovate, come with free IP search budgets</nowiki>

<nowiki># possible extension of time of “patent pending” by withdrawing the patent application and then refiling anew, although this looses the priority date and risks that someone else has filed meanwhile something similar</nowiki>

<nowiki># website: Five IP Offices has a good patent search tool, with links between patents/prior art</nowiki>
* [https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources]

<nowiki># website/youtube channel: InventRightTV</nowiki>
* [https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos]
* [https://www.inventright.com/ https://www.inventright.com/]

<nowiki># various commercialization strategies mentioned:</nowiki>
* Own IP and produce/sell yourself
* License IP without own production or sales
* Get acquired by large firm, save time, enter new game at higher level
* Protect against competition by cooperating with adversary of biggest competitor
* Create sticky consumer brand and outsell the competition
* IP valuation: use an IP actuary or (the cynical view) patent value equals legal defense fees
* General tip: It can be an expensive process and to be worthwhile an IP strategy needs to be very closely tied to the overall business strategy. In addition to the patent research you have started you should also look at the market sizes and potential profit you might expect. Many time, perhaps most, unless there is a clear technology difference, and a large market, and a tenfold cost/benefit improvement over the competition, patents can be more expense than advantage. They can however add to the value of a company if you are looking to sell to a larger player.

<nowiki># protection without patent:</nowiki>
* design
* trademark
* copyright
* effective commercial contracts re manufacturing or sales
* mind space (Federer) / brand equity (Coca Cola) / cult following (Apple)

<nowiki># databases re patents, brands, trademarks, designs, etc:</nowiki>
* Derwent via Cambridge University Library or British Library London
* [https://worldwide.espacenet.com https://worldwide.espacenet.com]
* [https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf]
* [https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/ https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/]
* [http://patft.uspto.gov/ http://patft.uspto.gov/]
* [http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/ http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/]
* [https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html]
* WIPO Guide to Using Patent Information incl Search Strategies [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf]
* WIPO IP Facts and Figures 2018 [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf]
* WIPO Free & Commercial Patent Database Overview: [https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf]

<nowiki># firms that give some free advice:</nowiki>
* many single or company patent lawyers will outline the whole work, give a cost overview, and timelines
* if you were buying a house you'd consult a professional, after all
* Nash Matthews, Hills Rd, CB: they offer ½ hour consultation at no cost, very friendly, bright people

== individual (optionally anonymous) opinions ==

===Miguel, September 2020===

With inventions meant for the general consumer, patents have less value compared to the brand and marketing, e.g. consumers buy the expensive Legos rather than copy-cats. For inventions meant for companies, patents have more value because companies are more price-sensitive and spend more time searching for alternatives, e.g. school districts would not buy the expensive Lego.

Exercise judgment before deciding to file a patent. Some attorneys may be biased because they have no stake in the game, they get paid whatever the result. You may end up spending significant time and money when good marketing brand building could have more results.

If, like me, you're the kind of person who likes to publish inventions on Thingiverse and contribute to the community, any of those may be held as prior art against your further inventions, if only because they're yours and will be the first thing that an examiner searches for.

------------
(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)

Patenting Experiences

2020-09-27T16:09:51Z

Mmorin: /* Strategic considerations */

(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)
------------

Everyone -- whether attendee or not at one of the MakeSpace events in the series of “Patenting Experiences” -- shall be encouraged to contribute to the collective intelligence of this wiki.

It shall help makespacers, entrepreneurs, or inventors navigate the patenting jungle, deal with patent attorneys, save resources, and improve commercial IP value, etc.

Whatever you discover that needs improvement, please fix it ASAP, ideally by respectfully correcting what is not yet right, and by generously adding what is yet missing. Thank you in advance for your wise contributions.

== First Rule of Patents==
... is don’t talk about patents!

Or more accurately, if you think you have a patentable invention, be careful about discussing the specifics about it with anyone until you have the patent filed. Most particularly don’t talk about it on the internet. The risk is that if you accidentally publish the details of your idea, that can constitute prior art that would prevent your patent being issued, or could invalidate your patent if it is later challenged in court. Or that someone you tell casually could write up and patent the idea before you and gain priority.

That said, don’t be too paranoid, just be careful.
You can talk to people about your invention if you have a written non-disclosure agreement (NDA) signed with them.

==What is a Patent==
Officially, a patent is legal document which gives an inventor the legal right to a monopoly to exploit an invention for a period of ~20 years, in exchange for disclosing their invention. In practice, the long term public benefit of disclosing an invention might have made sense in the 19th century, but is no longer particularly. So now patents are largely a way for inventors to protect their idea whilst they try to commercialise it.

Patents are granted by patent offices which typically represent the government of a country and the legal protections of the patent only apply to the territory of that country. So if you just patent in the UK, someone in America is at liberty to read your patent and exploit it America, or any other country, except the UK. You can file patents several patent offices worldwide (usually within a year or two of filing the patent in the first territory), but the costs of paying for all those patents can be very high - think hundreds of thousands of pounds spread over 20 years. For a commercially valuable idea which can generate millions it is worth it, but not all ideas are worth that much. There are strategies of patenting in fewer territories to save costs, but you probably want legal advice to avoid making a mistake.

The patent offices you are most likely to be interested are the UK, USA, Europe and China.

The rules for different patent offices around the world are gradually coming into alignment, but some differences remain. Typically, to be eligible for a patent, an invention must be;
# new, or novel
# inventive - that is not obvious, or a small tweak on something that already exists
# a thing that can be made or used (UK), or more generally within the category of ‘things that can be patented’ for a particular patent office
# useful (US)

In general, the US patent office is more open to the list of ‘things that can be patented’, including biological patents and software patents.

===How much does it cost===
It is not easy to get a solid answer to that question, it depends to some extent on how complicated your patent is. But here are some ballpark 2019 figures for the UK.

Patent Costs gov.uk ... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/patent-forms-and-fees/patent-forms-and-fees
(doesn't include those pesky lawyers though!)

In a discussion with Nash Williams they advised that
9 months after the initial patent there will be search report that will cost £300 - £1000 (UK patent).
In additional during the pre-publication & patent pending there may be any number of correction/clarification requests from the Patent office, which will be handled by the patent attorney. The cost of which is £800+ per query. And this might become drawn out and expensive depending on the complexity of the patent situation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Action
! Cost (£ GBP)
|-
| Patent lawyer to write initial patent
| 3000 - 5000
|-
| File patent
| 250
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 1
| 600
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 2
| 700
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 3...
| 800 - 4000
|}

==Strategic considerations==

* '''Grace period''': You can file a patent with the UK IPO, which gives you 12 months to disclose your patent publicly without losing the right to patent in other countries. So you can file the patent, which gives you the right to include the words "patent-pending", and talk to customers, investors, or competitors to gauge the value of your invention before you spend a lot of money with applications in each individual country. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_(patent).

* '''Patent Cooperation Treaty''': This allows you to "buy more time." Before the expiry of the grace period (usually 12 months), you would normally need to file applications in individual countries. But you can also file a Patent Cooperation Treaty application with the WIPO in Geneva, which effectively extends the grace period worldwide for another 18 months. The cost is around £3,700. In total, you can have 2.5 years to gauge the value of your patent before submitting in each country. Two caveats are that (1) several middle-Eastern and Gulf states are not signatories to the PCT; and (2) if you file a PCT application, you cannot file a patent in France, you must instead file a European patent designating France. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent_cooperation_treaty#Publication .

* '''Is it non-obvious?''': In the UK and Europe, IP Offices approach non-obviousness by asking first "what problem does this solve?" And then, "Is the way that it solves the problem inventive?"

* '''UK search''': After filing a patent, you can file a search request at the UK Patent Office. The results normally take 4 months, so people generally do it 6 months before the expiry of the grace period. This will give you an idea of how an examiner will approach an application, and if there are going to be any highly troublesome search results. It's very likely that the most relevant would be found, although this isn't 100% guaranteed. You can then use this to make an informed decision about filing overseas. A UK search costs £400.

* '''Include as many claims as possible''': After submitting a patent application, you can only remove "claims" (individual aspects of novelty or invention), you cannot add them. So you should include as many claims as you find plausible.

* '''DIY patent''': If you can't afford an attorney to write a patent, you could search some of the patents that are relevant for your invention and get inspiration for the style. This option is risky because, if you omit some crucial aspect, or if you use the wrong wording, you can no longer alter it. Per above, you cannot add claims after submission.

* '''micro-entities in the US''': The US IPO offers 75% reduction for micro-entities. Read more at: https://www.uspto.gov/patents-getting-started/general-information-concerning-patents .

* '''Provisional patent application in the US''': you can file this application, which has no review and costs between 65 and 260 dollars, and you can use "patent-pending." Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provisional_patent_application and some advice at https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephenkey/2018/01/08/dont-file-that-patent-yet-file-a-provisional-patent-application-first/

* '''European patent''': Europe can be treated as a single country for patent purposes with a centralised application that is searched and examined, and then translated if successful.

* '''Cancelling and refiling'''': a patent application is not in the public domain, so some inventors cancel the application and refile it to get another 12 months. Beware of the risks.

* '''First-to-invent''': The US has the rule of "first-to-invent". Other countries have the rule of "first-to-file". So, if you file in the US, you may consider mailing yourself a copy of your invention and keep it sealed and dated in case you need to prove you were the first to invent.

* '''Market size''': for consumer goods, you can file in some bigger countries and use the brand to "spill-over" nearby markets. For example, the Canada and the US have such integrated markets, and Canada is so small compared to the US, that it makes little sense to file in both.

== 1st Patenting experience meeting at Makespace ==

'''Patenting Experiences, 2019-11-13, Wed, 7-9pm, MakeSpace classroom, Mill Ln, Cambridge, UK'''

(We can possibly later leave out the event date and time, not structuring the content at all by when it came in, but only add content (incl questions for others) and structure.)

(A few bullet points to get your creative juices flowing…please expand/add/improve at will.)

<nowiki># book recommendations:</nowiki>
* Patent It Yourself by David Pressman
* Patent Pending in 24 Hours with CD by Richard Stim , David Pressman

<nowiki># some grants, e.g. from UK Innovate, come with free IP search budgets</nowiki>

<nowiki># possible extension of time of “patent pending” by withdrawing the patent application and then refiling anew, although this looses the priority date and risks that someone else has filed meanwhile something similar</nowiki>

<nowiki># website: Five IP Offices has a good patent search tool, with links between patents/prior art</nowiki>
* [https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources]

<nowiki># website/youtube channel: InventRightTV</nowiki>
* [https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos]
* [https://www.inventright.com/ https://www.inventright.com/]

<nowiki># various commercialization strategies mentioned:</nowiki>
* Own IP and produce/sell yourself
* License IP without own production or sales
* Get acquired by large firm, save time, enter new game at higher level
* Protect against competition by cooperating with adversary of biggest competitor
* Create sticky consumer brand and outsell the competition
* IP valuation: use an IP actuary or (the cynical view) patent value equals legal defense fees
* General tip: It can be an expensive process and to be worthwhile an IP strategy needs to be very closely tied to the overall business strategy. In addition to the patent research you have started you should also look at the market sizes and potential profit you might expect. Many time, perhaps most, unless there is a clear technology difference, and a large market, and a tenfold cost/benefit improvement over the competition, patents can be more expense than advantage. They can however add to the value of a company if you are looking to sell to a larger player.

<nowiki># protection without patent:</nowiki>
* design
* trademark
* copyright
* effective commercial contracts re manufacturing or sales
* mind space (Federer) / brand equity (Coca Cola) / cult following (Apple)

<nowiki># databases re patents, brands, trademarks, designs, etc:</nowiki>
* Derwent via Cambridge University Library or British Library London
* [https://worldwide.espacenet.com https://worldwide.espacenet.com]
* [https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf]
* [https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/ https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/]
* [http://patft.uspto.gov/ http://patft.uspto.gov/]
* [http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/ http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/]
* [https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html]
* WIPO Guide to Using Patent Information incl Search Strategies [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf]
* WIPO IP Facts and Figures 2018 [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf]
* WIPO Free & Commercial Patent Database Overview: [https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf]

<nowiki># firms that give some free advice:</nowiki>
* many single or company patent lawyers will outline the whole work, give a cost overview, and timelines
* if you were buying a house you'd consult a professional, after all
* Nash Matthews, Hills Rd, CB: they offer ½ hour consultation at no cost, very friendly, bright people

== individual (optionally anonymous) opinions ==

===Miguel, September 2020===

With inventions meant for the general consumer, patents have less value compared to the brand and marketing, e.g. consumers buy the expensive Legos rather than copy-cats. For inventions meant for companies, patents have more value because companies are more price-sensitive and spend more time searching for alternatives, e.g. school districts would not buy the expensive Lego.

Exercise judgment before deciding to file a patent. Some attorneys may be biased because they have no stake in the game, they get paid whatever the result. You may end up spending significant time and money when good marketing brand building could have more results.

If, like me, you're the kind of person who likes to publish inventions on Thingiverse and contribute to the community, any of those may be held as prior art against your further inventions, if only because they're yours and will be the first thing that an examiner searches for.

------------
(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)

Patenting Experiences

2020-09-27T15:58:07Z

Mmorin: /* Strategic considerations */

(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)
------------

Everyone -- whether attendee or not at one of the MakeSpace events in the series of “Patenting Experiences” -- shall be encouraged to contribute to the collective intelligence of this wiki.

It shall help makespacers, entrepreneurs, or inventors navigate the patenting jungle, deal with patent attorneys, save resources, and improve commercial IP value, etc.

Whatever you discover that needs improvement, please fix it ASAP, ideally by respectfully correcting what is not yet right, and by generously adding what is yet missing. Thank you in advance for your wise contributions.

== First Rule of Patents==
... is don’t talk about patents!

Or more accurately, if you think you have a patentable invention, be careful about discussing the specifics about it with anyone until you have the patent filed. Most particularly don’t talk about it on the internet. The risk is that if you accidentally publish the details of your idea, that can constitute prior art that would prevent your patent being issued, or could invalidate your patent if it is later challenged in court. Or that someone you tell casually could write up and patent the idea before you and gain priority.

That said, don’t be too paranoid, just be careful.
You can talk to people about your invention if you have a written non-disclosure agreement (NDA) signed with them.

==What is a Patent==
Officially, a patent is legal document which gives an inventor the legal right to a monopoly to exploit an invention for a period of ~20 years, in exchange for disclosing their invention. In practice, the long term public benefit of disclosing an invention might have made sense in the 19th century, but is no longer particularly. So now patents are largely a way for inventors to protect their idea whilst they try to commercialise it.

Patents are granted by patent offices which typically represent the government of a country and the legal protections of the patent only apply to the territory of that country. So if you just patent in the UK, someone in America is at liberty to read your patent and exploit it America, or any other country, except the UK. You can file patents several patent offices worldwide (usually within a year or two of filing the patent in the first territory), but the costs of paying for all those patents can be very high - think hundreds of thousands of pounds spread over 20 years. For a commercially valuable idea which can generate millions it is worth it, but not all ideas are worth that much. There are strategies of patenting in fewer territories to save costs, but you probably want legal advice to avoid making a mistake.

The patent offices you are most likely to be interested are the UK, USA, Europe and China.

The rules for different patent offices around the world are gradually coming into alignment, but some differences remain. Typically, to be eligible for a patent, an invention must be;
# new, or novel
# inventive - that is not obvious, or a small tweak on something that already exists
# a thing that can be made or used (UK), or more generally within the category of ‘things that can be patented’ for a particular patent office
# useful (US)

In general, the US patent office is more open to the list of ‘things that can be patented’, including biological patents and software patents.

===How much does it cost===
It is not easy to get a solid answer to that question, it depends to some extent on how complicated your patent is. But here are some ballpark 2019 figures for the UK.

Patent Costs gov.uk ... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/patent-forms-and-fees/patent-forms-and-fees
(doesn't include those pesky lawyers though!)

In a discussion with Nash Williams they advised that
9 months after the initial patent there will be search report that will cost £300 - £1000 (UK patent).
In additional during the pre-publication & patent pending there may be any number of correction/clarification requests from the Patent office, which will be handled by the patent attorney. The cost of which is £800+ per query. And this might become drawn out and expensive depending on the complexity of the patent situation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Action
! Cost (£ GBP)
|-
| Patent lawyer to write initial patent
| 3000 - 5000
|-
| File patent
| 250
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 1
| 600
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 2
| 700
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 3...
| 800 - 4000
|}

==Strategic considerations==

* '''Grace period''': You can file a patent with the UK IPO, which gives you 12 months to disclose your patent publicly without losing the right to patent in other countries. So you can file the patent, which gives you the right to include the words "patent-pending", and talk to customers, investors, or competitors to gauge the value of your invention before you spend a lot of money with applications in each individual country. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_(patent).

* '''Patent Cooperation Treaty''': This allows you to "buy more time." Before the expiry of the grace period (usually 12 months), you would normally need to file applications in individual countries. But you can also file a Patent Cooperation Treaty application with the WIPO in Geneva, which effectively extends the grace period worldwide for another 18 months. The cost is around £3,700. In total, you can have 2.5 years to gauge the value of your patent before submitting in each country. Two caveats are that (1) several middle-Eastern and Gulf states are not signatories to the PCT; and (2) if you file a PCT application, you cannot file a patent in France, you must instead file a European patent designating France. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent_cooperation_treaty#Publication .

* '''Is it non-obvious?''': In the UK and Europe, IP Offices approach non-obviousness by asking first "what problem does this solve?" And then, "Is the way that it solves the problem inventive?"

* '''UK search''': After filing a patent, you can file a search request at the UK Patent Office. This will give you an idea of how an examiner will approach an application, and if there are going to be any highly troublesome search results. It's very likely that the most relevant would be found, although this isn't 100% guaranteed. You can then use this to make an informed decision about filing overseas. A UK search costs £400.

* '''Include as many claims as possible''': After submitting a patent application, you can only remove "claims" (individual aspects of novelty or invention), you cannot add them. So you should include as many claims as you find plausible.

* '''DIY patent''': If you can't afford an attorney to write a patent, you could search some of the patents that are relevant for your invention and get inspiration for the style. This option is risky because, if you omit some crucial aspect, or if you use the wrong wording, you can no longer alter it. Per above, you cannot add claims after submission.

* '''micro-entities in the US''': The US IPO offers 75% reduction for micro-entities. Read more at: https://www.uspto.gov/patents-getting-started/general-information-concerning-patents .

* '''Provisional patent application in the US''': you can file this application, which has no review and costs between 65 and 260 dollars, and you can use "patent-pending." Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provisional_patent_application and some advice at https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephenkey/2018/01/08/dont-file-that-patent-yet-file-a-provisional-patent-application-first/

* '''European patent''': Europe can be treated as a single country for patent purposes with a centralised application that is searched and examined, and then translated if successful.

* '''Cancelling and refiling'''': a patent application is not in the public domain, so some inventors cancel the application and refile it to get another 12 months. Beware of the risks.

* '''First-to-invent''': The US has the rule of "first-to-invent". Other countries have the rule of "first-to-file". So, if you file in the US, you may consider mailing yourself a copy of your invention and keep it sealed and dated in case you need to prove you were the first to invent.

* '''Market size''': for consumer goods, you can file in some bigger countries and use the brand to "spill-over" nearby markets. For example, the Canada and the US have such integrated markets, and Canada is so small compared to the US, that it makes little sense to file in both.

== 1st Patenting experience meeting at Makespace ==

'''Patenting Experiences, 2019-11-13, Wed, 7-9pm, MakeSpace classroom, Mill Ln, Cambridge, UK'''

(We can possibly later leave out the event date and time, not structuring the content at all by when it came in, but only add content (incl questions for others) and structure.)

(A few bullet points to get your creative juices flowing…please expand/add/improve at will.)

<nowiki># book recommendations:</nowiki>
* Patent It Yourself by David Pressman
* Patent Pending in 24 Hours with CD by Richard Stim , David Pressman

<nowiki># some grants, e.g. from UK Innovate, come with free IP search budgets</nowiki>

<nowiki># possible extension of time of “patent pending” by withdrawing the patent application and then refiling anew, although this looses the priority date and risks that someone else has filed meanwhile something similar</nowiki>

<nowiki># website: Five IP Offices has a good patent search tool, with links between patents/prior art</nowiki>
* [https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources]

<nowiki># website/youtube channel: InventRightTV</nowiki>
* [https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos]
* [https://www.inventright.com/ https://www.inventright.com/]

<nowiki># various commercialization strategies mentioned:</nowiki>
* Own IP and produce/sell yourself
* License IP without own production or sales
* Get acquired by large firm, save time, enter new game at higher level
* Protect against competition by cooperating with adversary of biggest competitor
* Create sticky consumer brand and outsell the competition
* IP valuation: use an IP actuary or (the cynical view) patent value equals legal defense fees
* General tip: It can be an expensive process and to be worthwhile an IP strategy needs to be very closely tied to the overall business strategy. In addition to the patent research you have started you should also look at the market sizes and potential profit you might expect. Many time, perhaps most, unless there is a clear technology difference, and a large market, and a tenfold cost/benefit improvement over the competition, patents can be more expense than advantage. They can however add to the value of a company if you are looking to sell to a larger player.

<nowiki># protection without patent:</nowiki>
* design
* trademark
* copyright
* effective commercial contracts re manufacturing or sales
* mind space (Federer) / brand equity (Coca Cola) / cult following (Apple)

<nowiki># databases re patents, brands, trademarks, designs, etc:</nowiki>
* Derwent via Cambridge University Library or British Library London
* [https://worldwide.espacenet.com https://worldwide.espacenet.com]
* [https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf]
* [https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/ https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/]
* [http://patft.uspto.gov/ http://patft.uspto.gov/]
* [http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/ http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/]
* [https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html]
* WIPO Guide to Using Patent Information incl Search Strategies [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf]
* WIPO IP Facts and Figures 2018 [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf]
* WIPO Free & Commercial Patent Database Overview: [https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf]

<nowiki># firms that give some free advice:</nowiki>
* many single or company patent lawyers will outline the whole work, give a cost overview, and timelines
* if you were buying a house you'd consult a professional, after all
* Nash Matthews, Hills Rd, CB: they offer ½ hour consultation at no cost, very friendly, bright people

== individual (optionally anonymous) opinions ==

===Miguel, September 2020===

With inventions meant for the general consumer, patents have less value compared to the brand and marketing, e.g. consumers buy the expensive Legos rather than copy-cats. For inventions meant for companies, patents have more value because companies are more price-sensitive and spend more time searching for alternatives, e.g. school districts would not buy the expensive Lego.

Exercise judgment before deciding to file a patent. Some attorneys may be biased because they have no stake in the game, they get paid whatever the result. You may end up spending significant time and money when good marketing brand building could have more results.

If, like me, you're the kind of person who likes to publish inventions on Thingiverse and contribute to the community, any of those may be held as prior art against your further inventions, if only because they're yours and will be the first thing that an examiner searches for.

------------
(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)

Patenting Experiences

2020-09-27T15:44:11Z

Mmorin:

(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)
------------

Everyone -- whether attendee or not at one of the MakeSpace events in the series of “Patenting Experiences” -- shall be encouraged to contribute to the collective intelligence of this wiki.

It shall help makespacers, entrepreneurs, or inventors navigate the patenting jungle, deal with patent attorneys, save resources, and improve commercial IP value, etc.

Whatever you discover that needs improvement, please fix it ASAP, ideally by respectfully correcting what is not yet right, and by generously adding what is yet missing. Thank you in advance for your wise contributions.

== First Rule of Patents==
... is don’t talk about patents!

Or more accurately, if you think you have a patentable invention, be careful about discussing the specifics about it with anyone until you have the patent filed. Most particularly don’t talk about it on the internet. The risk is that if you accidentally publish the details of your idea, that can constitute prior art that would prevent your patent being issued, or could invalidate your patent if it is later challenged in court. Or that someone you tell casually could write up and patent the idea before you and gain priority.

That said, don’t be too paranoid, just be careful.
You can talk to people about your invention if you have a written non-disclosure agreement (NDA) signed with them.

==What is a Patent==
Officially, a patent is legal document which gives an inventor the legal right to a monopoly to exploit an invention for a period of ~20 years, in exchange for disclosing their invention. In practice, the long term public benefit of disclosing an invention might have made sense in the 19th century, but is no longer particularly. So now patents are largely a way for inventors to protect their idea whilst they try to commercialise it.

Patents are granted by patent offices which typically represent the government of a country and the legal protections of the patent only apply to the territory of that country. So if you just patent in the UK, someone in America is at liberty to read your patent and exploit it America, or any other country, except the UK. You can file patents several patent offices worldwide (usually within a year or two of filing the patent in the first territory), but the costs of paying for all those patents can be very high - think hundreds of thousands of pounds spread over 20 years. For a commercially valuable idea which can generate millions it is worth it, but not all ideas are worth that much. There are strategies of patenting in fewer territories to save costs, but you probably want legal advice to avoid making a mistake.

The patent offices you are most likely to be interested are the UK, USA, Europe and China.

The rules for different patent offices around the world are gradually coming into alignment, but some differences remain. Typically, to be eligible for a patent, an invention must be;
# new, or novel
# inventive - that is not obvious, or a small tweak on something that already exists
# a thing that can be made or used (UK), or more generally within the category of ‘things that can be patented’ for a particular patent office
# useful (US)

In general, the US patent office is more open to the list of ‘things that can be patented’, including biological patents and software patents.

===How much does it cost===
It is not easy to get a solid answer to that question, it depends to some extent on how complicated your patent is. But here are some ballpark 2019 figures for the UK.

Patent Costs gov.uk ... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/patent-forms-and-fees/patent-forms-and-fees
(doesn't include those pesky lawyers though!)

In a discussion with Nash Williams they advised that
9 months after the initial patent there will be search report that will cost £300 - £1000 (UK patent).
In additional during the pre-publication & patent pending there may be any number of correction/clarification requests from the Patent office, which will be handled by the patent attorney. The cost of which is £800+ per query. And this might become drawn out and expensive depending on the complexity of the patent situation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Action
! Cost (£ GBP)
|-
| Patent lawyer to write initial patent
| 3000 - 5000
|-
| File patent
| 250
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 1
| 600
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 2
| 700
|-
| Annual maintenance fee, year 3...
| 800 - 4000
|}

==Strategic considerations==

* '''Grace period''': You can file a patent with the UK IPO, which gives you 12 months to disclose your patent publicly without losing the right to patent in other countries. So you can file the patent, which gives you the right to include the words "patent-pending", and talk to customers, investors, or competitors to gauge the value of your invention before you spend a lot of money with applications in each individual country. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Novelty_(patent).

* '''Patent Cooperation Treaty''': This allows you to "buy more time." Before the expiry of the grace period (usually 12 months), you would normally need to file applications in individual countries. But you can also file a Patent Cooperation Treaty application with the WIPO in Geneva, which effectively extends the grace period worldwide for another 18 months. The cost is around £3,700. In total, you can have 2.5 years to gauge the value of your patent before submitting in each country. Two caveats are that (1) several middle-Eastern and Gulf states are not signatories to the PCT; and (2) if you file a PCT application, you cannot file a patent in France, you must instead file a European patent designating France. Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patent_cooperation_treaty#Publication .

* '''UK search''': After filing a patent, you can file a search request at the UK Patent Office. This will give you an idea of how an examiner will approach an application, and if there are going to be any highly troublesome search results. It's very likely that the most relevant would be found, although this isn't 100% guaranteed. You can then use this to make an informed decision about filing overseas. A UK search costs £400.

* '''Include as many claims as possible''': After submitting a patent application, you can only remove "claims" (individual aspects of novelty or invention), you cannot add them. So you should include as many claims as you find plausible.

* '''DIY patent''': If you can't afford an attorney to write a patent, you could search some of the patents that are relevant for your invention and get inspiration for the style. This option is risky because, if you omit some crucial aspect, or if you use the wrong wording, you can no longer alter it. Per above, you cannot add claims after submission.

* '''micro-entities in the US''': The US IPO offers 75% reduction for micro-entities. Read more at: https://www.uspto.gov/patents-getting-started/general-information-concerning-patents .

* '''Provisional patent application in the US''': you can file this application, which has no review and costs between 65 and 260 dollars, and you can use "patent-pending."
Read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provisional_patent_application and some advice at https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephenkey/2018/01/08/dont-file-that-patent-yet-file-a-provisional-patent-application-first/

* '''European patent''': Europe can be treated as a single country for patent purposes with a centralised application that is searched and examined, and then translated if successful.

== 1st Patenting experience meeting at Makespace ==

'''Patenting Experiences, 2019-11-13, Wed, 7-9pm, MakeSpace classroom, Mill Ln, Cambridge, UK'''

(We can possibly later leave out the event date and time, not structuring the content at all by when it came in, but only add content (incl questions for others) and structure.)

(A few bullet points to get your creative juices flowing…please expand/add/improve at will.)

<nowiki># book recommendations:</nowiki>
* Patent It Yourself by David Pressman
* Patent Pending in 24 Hours with CD by Richard Stim , David Pressman

<nowiki># some grants, e.g. from UK Innovate, come with free IP search budgets</nowiki>

<nowiki># possible extension of time of “patent pending” by withdrawing the patent application and then refiling anew, although this looses the priority date and risks that someone else has filed meanwhile something similar</nowiki>

<nowiki># website: Five IP Offices has a good patent search tool, with links between patents/prior art</nowiki>
* [https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources https://www.fiveipoffices.org/resources]

<nowiki># website/youtube channel: InventRightTV</nowiki>
* [https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos https://www.youtube.com/user/InventRightTV/videos]
* [https://www.inventright.com/ https://www.inventright.com/]

<nowiki># various commercialization strategies mentioned:</nowiki>
* Own IP and produce/sell yourself
* License IP without own production or sales
* Get acquired by large firm, save time, enter new game at higher level
* Protect against competition by cooperating with adversary of biggest competitor
* Create sticky consumer brand and outsell the competition
* IP valuation: use an IP actuary or (the cynical view) patent value equals legal defense fees
* General tip: It can be an expensive process and to be worthwhile an IP strategy needs to be very closely tied to the overall business strategy. In addition to the patent research you have started you should also look at the market sizes and potential profit you might expect. Many time, perhaps most, unless there is a clear technology difference, and a large market, and a tenfold cost/benefit improvement over the competition, patents can be more expense than advantage. They can however add to the value of a company if you are looking to sell to a larger player.

<nowiki># protection without patent:</nowiki>
* design
* trademark
* copyright
* effective commercial contracts re manufacturing or sales
* mind space (Federer) / brand equity (Coca Cola) / cult following (Apple)

<nowiki># databases re patents, brands, trademarks, designs, etc:</nowiki>
* Derwent via Cambridge University Library or British Library London
* [https://worldwide.espacenet.com https://worldwide.espacenet.com]
* [https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf https://patentscope.wipo.int/search/en/search.jsf]
* [https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/ https://www3.wipo.int/branddb/en/]
* [http://patft.uspto.gov/ http://patft.uspto.gov/]
* [http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/ http://www.ipdl.inpit.go.jp/]
* [https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html https://www.wipo.int/patentscope/en/national_databases.html]
* WIPO Guide to Using Patent Information incl Search Strategies [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_l434_3.pdf]
* WIPO IP Facts and Figures 2018 [https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf https://www.wipo.int/edocs/pubdocs/en/wipo_pub_943_2018.pdf]
* WIPO Free & Commercial Patent Database Overview: [https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf https://www.wipo.int/tisc/en/ppt/Philippines/overview_of_DBs.pdf]

<nowiki># firms that give some free advice:</nowiki>
* many single or company patent lawyers will outline the whole work, give a cost overview, and timelines
* if you were buying a house you'd consult a professional, after all
* Nash Matthews, Hills Rd, CB: they offer ½ hour consultation at no cost, very friendly, bright people

== individual (optionally anonymous) opinions ==

===Miguel, September 2020===

With inventions meant for the general consumer, patents have less value compared to the brand and marketing, e.g. consumers buy the expensive Legos rather than copy-cats. For inventions meant for companies, patents have more value because companies are more price-sensitive and spend more time searching for alternatives, e.g. school districts would not buy the expensive Lego.

Exercise judgment before deciding to file a patent. Some attorneys may be biased because they have no stake in the game, they get paid whatever the result. You may end up spending significant time and money when good marketing brand building could have more results.

If, like me, you're the kind of person who likes to publish inventions on Thingiverse and contribute to the community, any of those may be held as prior art against your further inventions, if only because they're yours and will be the first thing that an examiner searches for.

------------
(DISCLAIMER: This page content is not legal advice, and should not be construed as such.)

Meetings

2020-02-20T13:39:46Z

Mmorin: fixed links to 10-year old page with personal information we should not have since GDPR

= Members meetings =
* [[Meetings/Members2014-05-19 | Members meeting 19 May 2014]]
* [[Meetings/Members2014-06-09 | Members meeting 9 June 2014]]

= Owners Club meetings =
* [[Meetings/OwnersClub20-05-2013 | Owners Club initial meeting 20th May 2013]]

= Other group meetings =
* [[Meetings/FamilyMakers03-02-2013 | Family Makers initial discussion 3rd Feb 2013]]

= Older Meetings (pre-2012 in general) =

== Founder meetings ==

* [[Meetings/Founders02-10-2012 | Founders meeting 2nd Oct 2012]]
* [[Agenda for Thursday 11/10/12 | Founders planning meeting 11th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning16-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 16th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning25-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 26th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning30-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 30th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning22-11-2012 | Founders planning meeting 22nd Nov 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning06-12-2012 | Founders planning meeting and working party 6th Dec 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning18-01-2013 | Founders planning meeting 18th Jan 2013 -- Budget & Finances]]
* [[Meetings/Planning12-02-2013 | Draft agenda for next meeting]]

== Pre-Makespace Meetings ==

* [[Minutes21-10-10|Founder Member Meeting, 21 October 2010]]

== Law/Trademark ==

* [[Meetings/Taylor_Vinters | Taylor Vinters]]

* [[Meetings/Hepworth_Browne]]

== General Advisory Meetings ==

In 2010, Makespace had several meetings, some of which resulting in the [[Structure | Company Structure]], others with the following organisations:

* IfM

* IfM Communications Officer

* Fab Lab

* ideaSpace

* and others

The records of those meetings were deleted because of GDPR. (You need admin access to see them.)

Kit wishlist

2020-02-20T13:37:26Z

Mmorin: fixed stale link

{{Note|This page is not maintained and is of only historical interest.}}

A collection of everything that is and could be makespace:

= Kit Installed =

* [[Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment]]

= Kit Proposals =

Notes:
* We should consider what things should be brought new, second hand or fabricated ourselves using existing kit.
* When thinking about buying or making kit, we need to consider [[The Real Cost of Equipment]] and take that in to account
* For basic makespace infrastructure, some items are collected on [[Kit wishlist: basic infrastructure budget]]

=== Building Infrastructure ===

=== Main Space ===

* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics workbench with soldering stations]]
* Mirror at the First Aid station (for removal of eyelashes or otherwise from eyes without having to navigate to the toilets)

=== Workshop ===

* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Large Laser Cutter]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|Large CNC Router]]
* [[CNC_Milling_Machine|CNC Milling Machine]]

* [[Lathe]]
* Milling Machine

=== Hall ===

=== Store Room ===

= Kit Wishlist =

We can't guarantee when or if we'll get any of this kit, but if there's something you'd like, let us know here. You can also help us prioritise what to get by creating and voting over at http://makespace.uservoice.com/forums/179819-kit-list

===Woodwork/metalwork===

* Aluminium forming (because local providers aren't very good)
* A big sturdy workbench with a vice
* Hacksaws and files
* A mini drilling/milling machine, for example http://www.chestermachinetools.com/Products/Product.aspx?productID=500 for making PCBs and light wood and metal work. {broken link - 3/11/2012 - roger)

* Dremel/rotary tool - many brands available; [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JyTf1tJXXo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JyTf1tJXXo] is a helpful comparison of Proxxon and Dremel mini tools and drill stands. There's a decent Axminster model for £141: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-heavy-duty-flexible-drive-unit-prod20091/

* a small manual lathe eg http://www.chestermachinetools.com/products/detail/3 plus lathe tools and a bench grinder to sharpen them.
{Chester appear to have re-organised the website <strike>so this link is broken</strike> {MB - link reestablished, please check it is the correct model!} }
I assume something like the Conquest Super is what you meant. Also take the 4-way tool-carrier off and throw it away, fit a quick-change toolpost and use indexable carbide tip tooling, grinding HSS lathe tools is a special skill. (roger)
Base price for a Conquest Lathe Super Metric, quick-change toolpost, 5pc carbide tools and drill chuck is £580 (incl vat but not incl delivery)

* A lathe manual or CNC which can cut steel comfortably, so with coolant and colchester studentish sized with digital readout

* Any decent bench drillpress, with drills, holding vice, etc. Maybe a D16 from here: http://www.chestermachinetools.com/products/detail/323 for £230+vat+shipping, plus a drill vice.

* A floor standing pillar drill

* A CNC mill conversion just like http://www.jarkman.co.uk/catalog/cnc/taigcnc.htm Good for PCBs and a lot else. Plus cutters and workholding bits. It will need its own PC, too. Also see http://www.jarkman.co.uk/catalog/cnc/
Parts for that cost him around £1500 - plus some modest assembly time, obviously.

* If possible a real mill with some kind of cnc conversion with low speed settings or just a digital readout

* A bandsaw that will run horizontal or vertical (but mostly horizontal, for chopping the ends off bars) eg http://www.chesteruk.net/store/hv128_bandsaw.htm
* another option for a chopoff saw is a circular mitre saw eg: http://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-rage-3-255mm-compound-sliding-mitre-saw-230v/65730 though possibly something a bit more robust. Then you could get a conventional bandsaw

* Tools for small-scale metalwork:
** Bench Peg And Anvil (£9.99);
** files: 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe (£10.10); Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (£18.50);
** saws: Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable (£19.00); 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame (£13.50); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12 (£2.85); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12 (£2.85); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70)
** hammering: Flat Stake - 10cm X 10cm (£18.70); Planishing Hammer Cookson Value Range (£18.25); Hammer With 25mm Nylon Head (£9.50)
** pliers: Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (£31.15); Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range (£4.91) 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action (£18.65); Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£10.45); Tweezer set (£18.80)
** soldering: Hand Torch (£20.00); Magnesia Soldering Block (£6.35); Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm (£6.50); Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g (£5.41)
** marking out: 6" Ruler (£3.40); Standard Steel Scriber (£4.10); centre punch (£5.00); digital calipers (£30.24); 3" square (£8.75)
** magnification: Optivisor 2.0x No4 (£38.00); Optivisor 2.75x No7 (£38.00)
** flexible shaft tools: Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£13.30); Polishing Kit No 2 (£43.45)
Total: £553.08 incl vat and p&p from cooksongold.com. This plus a decent flexible shaft drill lets one do quite a lot, and many items are general-purpose

* a plasma cutter (to cut steel sheet etc - more than the laser cutter is capable of)

* expect more ideas from cambridge Science Centre people :)

* Decent belt/disc sander/linisher

* Polisher for plastics and others (a grinder with attachments)

* Measuring tools - digital calipers, micrometers etc

* Sheet metal folder

* Pipe bender

* G-clamps in various sizes (ordered on eBay --- [[User:JCGS|JCGS]] 12:10, 30 November 2012 (UTC))

* Small table saw, this sort of thing: http://www.proxxon-direct.com/acatalog/Table_Saw_FET.html

* Router table?

===Electronics/PCB tools===
* Temperature-controlled soldering station(s)
* Toaster oven (for reflow soldering)
* Fume extractor(s) for above
* Bench power supplies (e.g. a mix of 5V, 12V, variable, and multi-rail PSUs)
* PCB holders or "helping hands"
* Magnifying lamps (for us old-uns!)
* Side cutters
* Abrasive pen
* Heatsink tweezers
* Multimeter(s)
* Oscilloscope (digital and/or analog)
* Logic Analyser
* Signal generator
* Wire
* Selection of basic components (res, caps, v-reg, basic digital logic, basic IC's - 555,358, connectors, cable)
* Some way to order parts (group order to Farnell/RS/Maplin)
* spectrum analyser
* ESD handling equipment, eg. anti-static mats, wrist-strap, earth points, tester
* Small CNC milling machine, desktop size for cutting PCBs.

NB. PCB etching baths and etch-resist are probably unnecessary because the milling machines would allow PCBs to be milled instead of etched.

===Printing===
* A3 postscript laser printer
* print on demand POD system
* vandercook proofpree with type - for posters etc
* Multi Function Machine ( A3 / A4 Colour Copier, Printer and Scanner)- Each Member has Pay As You go cards (Like they do in Schools)

===3D printing===
* This is the 3d printer from Portishead: http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/
* http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/08/ultimaker-theres-a-new-3d-printer-in-town.html
* 3D scanner e.g. http://www.david-laserscanner.com/
* lots of 3D pic literature in Makespace
* chocolate printer http://www.3ders.org/articles/20120406-worlds-first-3d-chocolate-printer-now-up-for-pre-order.html

===Textiles===
* Knitting machine
* Sewing machine
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlock Overlock machine], important in (semi+)professional sewing
* Embroidery machine - for this to work well you'd want to have a computer to make designs on as there is specific software. The most cheap(ish) diverse set up I'm aware of would a Brother Innov-is 750E which cost at most £900 and software costs around £300.

===Acrylic working===
For bonding, shaping or finishing acrylic in ways that can't be done by machining:

* Dichloromethane (or Evo-Stik ExtruFix) for bonding acrylic parts
* Extractor hood/fan to reduce dichloromethane inhalation risk
* Strip heater or heat gun
* Acrylic edge scraper
* Acrylic scorer
* Fine grit sandpaper
* Butane or MAPP gas torch for flame polishing (see [[#glassworking]]
* Gas for torch

= Materials =
===Laser Cutter materials===
Max Size 300mmx600mm

* Acrylic 3mm - Clear 300mm x 600mm
* Acrylic 3mm - Various colours 300mm x 600mm
* Acrylic 6mm - Clear 300mm x 600mm
* Plywood 3mm Various Sizes
* MDF 3mm (Laserable) Various Sizes
* Cardboard 3mm 300mm x 600mm
* Cardboard 5mm 300mm x 600mm
* Paper 300mm x 600mm
* Leather
* Fabric

===Modella Milling Machine materials===
Max Size 150x200mm

*Machineable wax 40mm x 90mm x 150mm
* Circuit boards 1.6mm x 1000mm x 1200mm
* Wood (Various) 150x200mm

===Shopbot CNC Router materials===
Max Size 1200mmx 2400mm x 120mm

* Plywood 3-25mm thick
* MDF 3-25mm thick
* Aluminium
* Cast Iron
* Acrylic
* Brass
* Steel
* Foam

===Vinyl Cutter materials===
* Copper Tape 3M 1126 150mm x 33m
* Vinyl roll (canary yellow) 380mm wide
* Vinyl roll (card red) 380mm wide
* Vinyl roll (royal blue) 380mm wide
* Vinyl roll (cactus green) 380mm wide
* Transfer Tape, Permacel 595B 150mmx 55m
* WHITE Epoxy film 3M 1 150mm x 90m

===3D Printer materials===

Currently the raw material costs are quite high. Therefore...

* ABS plus cartridge (white) 1000 cm3
* soluble support cartridge 1000 cm3

===Additional electronics/PCB materials===
* Flux-cored solder (please some 60/40 as well as that silly ROHS, for working with older gear and for ease of use!)
* USB microscope with monitor?

===Painting materials===
* Brushes
* Water pots
* Acrylic paints in white, black, red, yellow, blue
* Clearcoat spray and/or liquid

= Future and Archived Wishlist Items =

* '''These are items not for further consideration at this time, whether because they have been discounted or not a near-term priority'''

=== Welding ===

Welding is something we'll definitely need to talk to the landlord about - they've flagged up that the additional fire risk would mean we need to talk about fire barriers etc and can't go ahead without checking with them first. For now, we will not consider welding until Makespace is successfully up and running, at which point we may re-approach the university on this subject.

* Arc welder (a bit yuk)
* MIG welder (cheap and easy to use)
* TTG welder (suitable for aluminium)
* Welder misc: gas (eg BOC) + cage + bolt to wall, wire, tips, gloves, apron, head shields, lightproof/fireproof curtained area to protect other workers

===Safety equipment===

This should be considered as part of each equipment or area setup, rather as standalone

* Safety glasses
* Kevlar gloves for cutting
* Nitrile gloves for handling chemicals
* Lab coats to keep chemicals/paint off clothes & skin

=== Air Tools ===

Can we use the metal air-lines that are already in place?
* No, we do not plan to use air tools or the air-lines that are in place. There is no compressor, they are noisy, and the convenience/simplicity/consistency of electric tools is our choice. We have decided to leave the lines in for now, but may remove them in time.

Compressor/air for plasma and other airtools
* Cutting/drilling/polishing airtools

===Bio work===

We have no plans at present to support work with recombinant DNA or other bio work :)

===Flameworking===
If we want to be able to make borosilicate glass components at Makespace, we'll need at least the following:

* MAPP gas torch
* MAPP gas for torch
* Torch holder with metal or ceramic heatproof bench plate for rolling
* Shears
* Carbon paddle

===AV kit===
What about providing Audio Visual equipment for creating audio-visual experiences, interactive or not.
This can be combined with workshops in animation, film-making, special effects, synthesisers, computer graphics, etc.

Equipment might include: a projector screen (or white wall), a relatively good quality, high-resolution digital projector, amplifier, speakers (with good subwoofer.) Also software for animation, computer graphics, audio synthesis, video editing. Sensors for interactive experience: camera, motion sensors.

One idea is to teach 3D modelling of a character which can be part of a game/video, and also be printed on the 3D printer.

===Materials work===

For development of novel materials or layers, or devices such as solar panels
* Fume hood or cabinet

=== Other ===

* Lego (useful for prototyping shapes as well as for fun)

=== Software tools ===

Mostly just downloadable, so here just for reference

LabVIEW

Gimp - www.gimp.org/

Blender - www.blender.org/download/get-blender/

Open office - download.openoffice.org/

Inkscape - www.inkscape.org

Google Sketch up - sketchup.google.com/ with stl plugin

This plugin seems to work quite well www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl

However this program repairs any incomplete stl files www.netfabb.com/

Or this program http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/

Adobe - www.adobe.com/uk/

Qcad - www.qcad.org/qcad.html

Eagle - www.cadsoftusa.com/freeware.htm

MIT Software - http://fab.cba.mit.edu/content/tools/software/cad_cam/

Stuff to drive the smart white board eg http://osswatch.jiscinvolve.org/wp/2012/10/16/open-sankore-open-source-whiteboard-software/

=== Workshop Setup References ===

===The FabLab kit===

Fab Labs share core capabilities, so that people and projects can be shared across them. This currently includes:
# A computer-controlled lasercutter, for press-fit assembly of 3D structures from 2D parts
# A larger (4'x8') numerically-controlled milling machine, for making furniture- (and house-) sized parts
# A vinylcutter, to produce signs, printing masks, flexible circuits, and antennas
# A precision (micron resolution) milling machine to make three-dimensional moulds and surface-mounted circuit boards
# Electronics assembly
# Programming tools for low-cost high-speed embedded processors
# Sewing and embroidery equipment
# You can read more about how Fab Labs started by following this link. www.cba.mit.edu.

There is also a wealth of know-how on Fab Lab equipment and projects.

A la Manchester:
* Dimension 1200es Series 3D Printer
* Epilog Mini 24 Laser Cutter
* Roland Modela MDX-20 Desktop Miller
* Roland Vinyl Cutter
* Shopbot CNC Router
* Janome Memory Craft 200e Embroidery Machine
* 'Fab Vac' Vac former

IEEE Spectrum: http://spectrum.ieee.org/geek-life/hands-on/diy-essentials/0

Full fab lab list: http://fab.cba.mit.edu/about/fab/inv.html

workshop in a container: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsejLtLc70nwdG5DeVJmOVA4OUxpcXl6alFaNzh5Unc&hl=en_US#gid=0

A great outline of prototyping kit and space suggestions from Phil Keenan: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwrlF51mx2ojYTQ5MzA1NGItZDBmNi00YmViLWJjODktYzlkM2M1OTAwNmQ0

Equipment/WoodLathe

2020-02-20T13:36:18Z

Mmorin: /* Wood Lathe */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]]

==Wood Lathe==

Page in development Nov 2018.



[[File:headstockthumb.png|framed|Head Stock]]

We have a woodworking lathe kindly donated to us on indefinite loan by Kim Spence-Jones. It is a quality machine in fair condition. It is however easily capable of causing severe injury and must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.

==Using the woodworking lathe==

The lathe is capable of machining circular cuts in wood up to about 30cm (12 inches) in diameter for bowls (20cm for spindles) and about 125cm (4') long. The lathe is solidly built so with care excellent results can be obtained.
We have a number of tools and accessories as follows.

* Chuck key
* Size guide for creating tenons of appropriate size to suit chuck.
* Easywood woodturning tools
* Traditional gouges
* Jacobs chuck
* Chuck with jaws to expand into a recess or contract onto a tenon
* Screw to fit into chuck above

The lathe has five speeds, it cannot be run in reverse. Elsewhere in this wiki is guidance about the use of different speeds – please always leave the lathe in a middle or lower setting. It is advised that you check this before you start each time.

==Safety==

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.
Dust from many woods can cause allergic reactions in some individuals, and some woods have been identified as seriously toxic. There is a book in the library ("Wood for Wood Turners" by Mark Baker) which documents possible health risks for 150 different woods. Also a useful database of woods website below.

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/

The Key hazards are:

* Contact with moving parts, such as the power transmission, chucks, spindles, and the workpiece
* Getting loose clothes, , jewellery, or long hair caught in rotating parts: such entanglement is a serious hazard on a lathe
* Being struck by flying chips or wood splinters thrown by the cutting action
* Being struck by a workpiece that has not been adequately secured in the lathe or is oversized or unbalanced
* Inhalation of dust and particles
* Dropping objects on foot

It is each users responsibility to:

* Do a visual pre-operation inspection should be done prior to use.
* Remove chuck keys, adjusting wrenches and knockout bars before starting to turn.
* Form a habit of checking for these before turning on the lathe.
* Check motor belt for cracks or worn areas. Remove from operation if cord is damaged or if plug does not have proper grounding (3-prong).
* Make sure there is enough tension in the belt

Also before starting to turn:

* Inspect piece for cracks, knots or even hidden nails. Check grain orientation.
* Check speed of lathe – always start with slow (or medium if small item)- wider or heavier means slower
* Check piece is secure and centred – check again.
* Check tools are sharp
* Check where emergency stop button is
* Check your PPE eye protection and dust protection – latter especially if intention is to sand or use scraper.
* Check your choice of tool
* Inform others in your immediate work area.

Personal Protective equipment (PPE)

Wear safety glasses or faceshields at all times. Use safety shoes if working with heavy blanks. Ear protection is not normally necessary for lathes but other related activities may require their use.
Use workshop dust extraction but be aware that this may not capture all of the fine dust so use a mask or a powered respirator. Workshop extraction systems continually filter the air but you still need personal protection. Check the hazards that relate to the particular wood you are using – some wood dusts can be quite toxic.

http://www.peterchild.co.uk/info1/dust_hazard.htm

* Fire precautions

Many of the finishes used in woodturning are very flammable. Check the instructions and store them away from any possible source of ignition. Check location of fire extinguishers and exits
Leave door to workshop ajar if you are working in there on your own.
Steel wool is often used to abrade wood but it must never be stored near where sparks can fly.

* Consideration for others

In an open workshop make sure that other people are aware that you will be starting up the lathe and making shavings. Check no-one is at risk in your immediate vicinity. Clean up the immediate area at the end of a session. Vacuuming is much better than sweeping as a brush although useful for shavings it can generate large quantities of dust.

Read Safety notice above lathe

==Owners and Trainers==

The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.

* Owners

Allen Kaye, Matt Jaworski

* Trainers

Allen Kaye, Matt Jaworski, Lachlan Swain



THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners. They will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

The objectives of the initial training session are as follows.

* Know of potential risks and hazards specific to woodturning and using the lathe – reminder of general Makespace workshop rules.
* Know safety guidelines in relation to self, the kit and other people.
* Understand why the lathe needs to run at different speeds and be able to change speeds.
* Understand the Importance of grain direction in a blank and identify such in particular blanks.
* Know of sources of wood for turning.
* Know that there are a variety of ways of mounting blanks for both spindle and faceplate work.
* Be able to mount a blank for a simple spindle project and/or a simple faceplate project.
* Be able to identify basic types of turning tools (Easywood tools, bowl gouge, spindle gouge, roughing gouge, scraper, parting tool)
* Be able to use parting tool, scraper and either Easywood tool set or traditional bowl gouge, roughing gouge and spindle gouge
* Understand importance of sharp tools and be able to sharpen basic tool set or replace cutters in Easywood tools.
* Know of a variety of finishing products and why one might choose a particular one
* Know what woodturning kit is available at Makespace and how to leave the space at the end of a turning session. Understand best ways of clearing up after working to avoid dust
* Know of sources of further information and guidance.

= Maintenance =

The maintenance is done by the owners on a regular basis

Checking that all the screws are securely fastened (pulleys, chuck...)
Checking that the tools are still sharp, if an Easywood tool is not sharp you can rotate the cutter to an unused section..

==Sharpening==

There are two distinct types of turning tools available - the Easywood tools with carbide exchangeable cutters and a limited set of traditional gouges, scrapers and parting tools. They can all be sharpened using the Tormek system but you need to be trained to use the right jig for each. Each tool can probably be sharpened in a number of different profiles but the standard Makespace set must always be sharpened in the same way and changing a profile can be a lengthy process. Check the posters above the Tormek and read the manual if you are not sure.

Exchangeable cutters.

As their name suggests these are exchangeable so in theory when they are blunt they can be replaced however it is possible to sharpen them. Unless you are confident then please just report a sharpness problem to the owners who will arrange for either a new replacement cutter or to sharpen them. In use, you only use a small portion of each cutter and so routinely it is possible to release the cutter and rotate it to a new position. If done so then it is helpful to mark the back of the cutter with a felt tip to indicate it has been used. See page 31 and 32 in the manual.

If you will be using the Easywood tools regularly you may choose to buy your own cutters and manage their use and sharpness yourself but always replace and leave the Makespace tool cutters fixed and usable as you finish. Ask an owner for advise as to where to buy as these can be expensive.

In general terms, the carbide cutters on the Easywood tools are simpler and safer to use but cannot easily develop a good finish and significant amounts of sanding may be needed.

Other more traditional tools.

We are recommending that the spindle and bowl gouge are always sharpened in the following way.

* Use the TTS-100 setter and SVD-185 jig.

* Bowl Gouge - set it to standard profile JS 2, P 65, Hole A.
* Spindle Gouge - set to standard profile JS 2, P 65, Hole A.

You will need training to interpret and use these settings.

https://www.tormek.com/uk/en/grinding-jigs/svd-186-gouge-jig-svd-185/ Tormek Video for SVD-185

== Peripheral tools and accessories ==

Photo-list of current [[Equipment/WoodLathe/Accessories|Woodworking lathe accessories]].

Running the lathe will require many accessories, a suggested list will be developed

= Associated documents =

[[File:Wood_Lathe_risk_assess.pdf]]

[[File:Makespace_Woodturning_Training_Session.pdf]]

[[File:questionnaire.pdf]]

[[File:sharpening.pdf]]

= Useful Links =

[http://www.woodturner.org/resources/safety.htm American Association of Woodturners' Safety Advice]

[http://www.safetyservicescompany.com/topic/training/wood-lathe-safety-tips/ Wood Lathe Safety Tips]

[http://www.cambridge-woodturners.co.uk/ Cambridge Woodturners]

[https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/category/how-tos/ Axminster pages with some woodturning videos]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QUFjHdni2Q/ Introducing Easywood tools]

[http://http://www.easywoodtools.com/ Easywood tool site]

Equipment

2020-02-20T13:34:39Z

Mmorin: removed stale link

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]

The equipment you can find in Makespace.

== Using our Equipment ==

There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.

Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Online payment system]].

[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.

Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.

'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].

If you want to create a new page for equipment, follow [[New_Equipment_Template|the new equipment template]].

== The Workshop ==

For more details please see [[SecureWorkshop|the Secure Workshop]]

In the main area:

* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]
* [[Equipment/Router|Hand-held Plunge Router]]
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Wood Lathe]]
* [[Equipment/AxminsterScrollSaw|Scroll Saw]]
* [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Tool Box]
* [[Equipment/Spindle Sander|Triton Spindle Sander]]
* [[Equipment/Thicknesser|Metabo Thicknesser]]
* [[Equipment/Hand Planes|Hand Planes]]

In the metal work area:

* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]]
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]] (Currently no training available)

== The Space ==

* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]
* Chromebooks
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Hobby_Bender|Hobby Bender acrylic bending device]]

== Craft area ==
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* large table for cutting or working at
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]
* PC with basic image-editing software (Inkscape, GIMP), scanner and link to Vinyl cutter
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]
* [[Badge Maker]]

== Classroom ==
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]
== Corridor Cupboards ==
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]

== Related ==
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

Equipment

2020-02-20T13:34:03Z

Mmorin: removed stale link to sewing machine

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]

The equipment you can find in Makespace.

== Using our Equipment ==

There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.

Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Online payment system]].

[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.

Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.

'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].

If you want to create a new page for equipment, follow [[New_Equipment_Template|the new equipment template]].

== The Workshop ==

For more details please see [[SecureWorkshop|the Secure Workshop]]

In the main area:

* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]
* [[Equipment/Router|Hand-held Plunge Router]]
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Wood Lathe]]
* [[Equipment/AxminsterScrollSaw|Scroll Saw]]
* [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Tool Box]
* [[Equipment/Spindle Sander|Triton Spindle Sander]]
* [[Equipment/Thicknesser|Metabo Thicknesser]]
* [[Equipment/Hand Planes|Hand Planes]]

In the metal work area:

* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]]
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]] (Currently no training available)

== The Space ==

* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]
* [[nfrastructure/Computing|Chromebooks]]
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Hobby_Bender|Hobby Bender acrylic bending device]]

== Craft area ==
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* large table for cutting or working at
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]
* PC with basic image-editing software (Inkscape, GIMP), scanner and link to Vinyl cutter
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]
* [[Badge Maker]]

== Classroom ==
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]
== Corridor Cupboards ==
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]

== Related ==
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

Working with the wiki

2020-02-20T13:32:56Z

Mmorin: added new page example

We use MediaWiki. Below is a list of the most useful elements to work with our wiki. Please add or edit as appropriate, and see [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki] for the full documentation.

= Getting help =

When you edit a page, click on "Editing help" at the bottom right to go to [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Editing_pages MediaWiki].

= Creating pages =

To create a new page, first create a link to it from somewhere (it can be anywhere, but make it count), for example <nowiki>[[New page example]]</nowiki>, which looks like this:

[[New page example]]

Then save the page that points to it, click on the link (where the tooltip reads "page does not exist"), and you'll be taken to an interface to create the page.

= Formatting =

== Headings ==

Headings are surrounded by equal signs: <nowiki> = top heading =, == sub-heading ==, === sub-sub-heading ===</nowiki>.

== Equipment categories ==

We use these "macros" for categories of equipment: <nowiki>{{RedTool}}, {{GreenTool}}, and {{OrangeTool}}</nowiki>. The wiki will replace that text with a canned box with details on the type of equipment

== Links ==

You can create internal links as <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki]]). Spaces are converted to underscores. You can add custom text with a pipe (|, or vertical bar), e.g. <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]).

You can create external links as <nowiki>[https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]</nowiki> (result: [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]), where the first space
separates the link from the display text, and the remaining spaces are part of the display text.

Notice two brackets for internal links and one bracket for external links. Notice also that external links have no pipes (|, or vertical bar).

If your link is not working, go to a browser such as Firefox, right-click on the link, and click "Inspect element". A pane will open showing you the source of the link and you can then debug why your link is not working as you expect.

== Lists ==

For an unordered list, use asterisks, e.g. <nowiki>* item 1</nowiki>. Double or triple the number of asterisks for sub-lists, e.g. <nowiki>** sub-item 1</nowiki>. Result:

* item 1
** sub-item 1

For ordered lists, use hash (#) instead of asterisk (*).

== Code ==

Prefix with two spaces:

some code

== Bold ==

'''some bold text'''

= Adding images or files =

== Basic syntax ==

You need to be logged in to upload files. On the toolbar at the left, under "tools", click "Upload file", grab its link, then include it with this syntax for a framed image: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. The result is the laser cutter to the right.

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]

== Resizing ==

To resize an image, normally you would use this syntax: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|100px|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. Our wiki is not currently configured to create thumbnails with different sizes and gives this error:

''Error creating thumbnail: Unable to run external programs, passthru() is disabled.''

For now, please use the original size, or resize on your machine before uploading.

== Documentation ==

See [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Images#Rendering_a_single_image Media Wiki Image help] for more options.

Meetings

2020-02-20T13:30:37Z

Mmorin: removed links to 10-year old pages with personal information we should not have since GDPR

= Members meetings =
* [[Meetings/Members2014-05-19 | Members meeting 19 May 2014]]
* [[Meetings/Members2014-06-09 | Members meeting 9 June 2014]]

= Owners Club meetings =
* [[Meetings/OwnersClub20-05-2013 | Owners Club initial meeting 20th May 2013]]

= Other group meetings =
* [[Meetings/FamilyMakers03-02-2013 | Family Makers initial discussion 3rd Feb 2013]]

= Older Meetings (pre-2012 in general) =

== Founder meetings ==

* [[Meetings/Founders02-10-2012 | Founders meeting 2nd Oct 2012]]
* [[Agenda for Thursday 11/10/12 | Founders planning meeting 11th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning16-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 16th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning25-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 26th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning30-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 30th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning22-11-2012 | Founders planning meeting 22nd Nov 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning06-12-2012 | Founders planning meeting and working party 6th Dec 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning18-01-2013 | Founders planning meeting 18th Jan 2013 -- Budget & Finances]]
* [[Meetings/Planning12-02-2013 | Draft agenda for next meeting]]

== Pre-Makespace Meetings ==

* [[Minutes21-10-10|Founder Member Meeting, 21 October 2010]]

== Company/Structure Meetings ==

* [[Meetings/CCVS| CCVS]]

* [[Structure | Company Structure]]

== Law/Trademark ==

* [[Meetings/Taylor_Vinters | Taylor Vinters]]

* [[Meetings/Hepworth_Browne]]

== General Advisory Meetings ==

In 2010, Makespace had meetings with the following organisations:

* IfM

* IfM Communications Officer

* Fab Lab

* ideaSpace

* and others

The records of those meetings were deleted because of GDPR. (You need admin access to see them.)

Meetings

2020-02-20T13:29:51Z

Mmorin: removed 10-year old pages with personal information we should not have since GDPR

= Members meetings =
* [[Meetings/Members2014-05-19 | Members meeting 19 May 2014]]
* [[Meetings/Members2014-06-09 | Members meeting 9 June 2014]]

= Owners Club meetings =
* [[Meetings/OwnersClub20-05-2013 | Owners Club initial meeting 20th May 2013]]

= Other group meetings =
* [[Meetings/FamilyMakers03-02-2013 | Family Makers initial discussion 3rd Feb 2013]]

= Older Meetings (pre-2012 in general) =

== Founder meetings ==

* [[Meetings/Founders02-10-2012 | Founders meeting 2nd Oct 2012]]
* [[Agenda for Thursday 11/10/12 | Founders planning meeting 11th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning16-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 16th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning25-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 26th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning30-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 30th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning22-11-2012 | Founders planning meeting 22nd Nov 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning06-12-2012 | Founders planning meeting and working party 6th Dec 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning18-01-2013 | Founders planning meeting 18th Jan 2013 -- Budget & Finances]]
* [[Meetings/Planning12-02-2013 | Draft agenda for next meeting]]

== Pre-Makespace Meetings ==

* [[Minutes21-10-10|Founder Member Meeting, 21 October 2010]]

== Company/Structure Meetings ==

* [[Meetings/CCVS| CCVS]]

* [[Structure | Company Structure]]

== Law/Trademark ==

* [[Meetings/Taylor_Vinters | Taylor Vinters]]

* [[Meetings/Hepworth_Browne]]

== Space Meetings ==

* [[Meetings/AndySlaymaker101103| CityLife]]

* [[Meetings/Prager | Richard Prager, CUED]]

== General Advisory Meetings ==

In 2010, Makespace had meetings with the following organisations:

* IfM

* IfM Communications Officer

* Fab Lab

* ideaSpace

* and others

The records of those meetings were deleted because of GDPR. (You need admin access to see them.)

== Fundraising ==

* [[Meetings/Ingenious | Ingenious]]

* [[Meetings/CUDO | Cambridge Uni Development Office]]

== Outreach ==

* [[Meetings/GeoffParks | Geoff Parks at CUED]]

Meetings

2020-02-20T13:24:16Z

Mmorin: removed links to pages deleted because of GDPR

= Members meetings =
* [[Meetings/Members2014-05-19 | Members meeting 19 May 2014]]
* [[Meetings/Members2014-06-09 | Members meeting 9 June 2014]]

= Owners Club meetings =
* [[Meetings/OwnersClub20-05-2013 | Owners Club initial meeting 20th May 2013]]

= Other group meetings =
* [[Meetings/FamilyMakers03-02-2013 | Family Makers initial discussion 3rd Feb 2013]]

= Older Meetings (pre-2012 in general) =

== Founder meetings ==

* [[Meetings/Founders02-10-2012 | Founders meeting 2nd Oct 2012]]
* [[Agenda for Thursday 11/10/12 | Founders planning meeting 11th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning16-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 16th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning25-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 26th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning30-10-2012 | Founders planning meeting 30th Oct 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning22-11-2012 | Founders planning meeting 22nd Nov 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning06-12-2012 | Founders planning meeting and working party 6th Dec 2012]]
* [[Meetings/Planning18-01-2013 | Founders planning meeting 18th Jan 2013 -- Budget & Finances]]
* [[Meetings/Planning12-02-2013 | Draft agenda for next meeting]]

== Pre-Makespace Meetings ==

* [[Minutes21-10-10|Founder Member Meeting, 21 October 2010]]

== Company/Structure Meetings ==

* [[Meetings/CCVS| CCVS]]

* [[Meetings/Business Link | Business Link]]

* [[Meetings/Structure | Tim, Jonny, Stew about Company]]

Also see [[AdviceOnBanking]]

== Law/Trademark ==

* [[Meetings/Taylor_Vinters | Taylor Vinters]]

* [[Meetings/Hepworth_Browne]]

== Space Meetings ==

* [[Meetings/AndySlaymaker101103| CityLife]]

* [[Meetings/Prager | Richard Prager, CUED]]

== General Advisory Meetings ==

In 2010, Makespace had meetings with the following organisations:

* IfM

* IfM Communications Officer

* Fab Lab

* ideaSpace

* and others

The records of those meetings were deleted because of GDPR. (You need admin access to see them.)

== Fundraising ==

* [[Meetings/Ingenious | Ingenious]]

* [[Meetings/CUDO | Cambridge Uni Development Office]]

== Outreach ==

* [[Meetings/GeoffParks | Geoff Parks at CUED]]

Infrastructure

2020-02-20T13:18:02Z

Mmorin: fixed stale links

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
For all bug reports and queries related to the functioning of the infrastructure of the space, email the mailing list!
</div>
The Makespace Infrastructure (see also [[Equipment]])

* RFID Access Control

* [[Infrastructure/Computing|Computing]]
* [[Infrastructure/Internet|Internet]]
* [[Infrastructure/Printing|Printing]]

* [[Infrastructure/Kitchen|Kitchen]]

* [[Infrastructure/Supplies|Supplies]]

* [[Infrastructure/Plants|Plants]]
* [[Infrastructure/Recycling & Waste|Recycling & Waste]]

== Storage ==

* [[Infrastructure/Member_Personal_Storage|Member Personal Storage]]
* Store Room (Trove)

Health and Safety Policy Drafting

2020-02-20T13:09:29Z

Mmorin: fixed stale links

{{Note|Official Health and Safety rules are posted on the Makespace Website, not on the Wiki}}

'''Notes on Health and safety'''
See also: [[Fire Safety Policy Drafting]], [[First Aid Policy]], [[General Risk Assessments]], [[Equipment Activity Material Risk Assessments]], [[Electrical safety policy]]

Essentially we need a written Health and Safety policy, a written fire policy, and a written first aid policy. These will be formal documents approved by the board of Makespace Cambridge Ltd but can be public and created in a collaborative style :) The policies then need to be followed and there might be signs around the space, or things written in the Rules, which form part of the policies. The Health and Safety policy describes how we handle various risks, and alongside it we will have a set of Risk Assessments. A risk assessment isn't a big scary thing: it's just a way of setting out: (1) what's the worst that could happen, (2) how likely is it to happen, (3) What are we going to do about it. An example might be: (1) someone could trip and injure themselves on this uneven floor; (2) it's reasonably likely because the floor is uneven and it's a walkway; (3) we will use black and yellow tape to mark the uneven patch so people spot it. Each of the 3 policies will include named individuals who are responsible for certain things. These might be the directors of the Makespace company (on whose necks this all is) but they may at some point feel able to delegate some or all of the responsibility.

* Although we aren't an employer directly right now, our insurance covers employees and volunteers as the same thing, and as such we expect to follow workplace-style practices in Makespace.

* It may seem odd that things you can do at home without turning a hair aren't possible in the space. That's because the space isn't your home - this is significant - it's a public space and/or a workplace (effectively) and so extra guidance applies.

* We'll have first versions of the 3 policies for "now", and new versions for when we are open, as the risks change then.

* We'll be putting up the HSE (health and safety executive) poster about workplace safety. most of it won't really apply - because we aren't actually employees - but it's a requirement. Note that we're a limited company, not an informal group.

* Each new activity, or equipment item, or material, will need a risk assessment. most of these will be written down but some might be quite informal. For instance, laura bringing in her laptop and charger doesn't need a written risk assessment - a visual inspection shows they are very low risk and so we don't need to worry. The worst that could happen and the likelihood of that happening are not big worries. WE can start with fewer RAs in place and add more as we go.

* Working at height - going up a ladder - has an actual legal basis, and as such is different to other risks. We'll need to be extra careful (and we should look into what it entails)

* The policies need to be ''reasonable''. We don't need a written document for every tiny risk. At the same time, we can't have a blanket "you are all adults and the risks are down to you as individuals to figure out" - that's not reasonable enough :) '''Risk assessments are an enabler. They help us all understand that if we follow some basic things, we are good to do what we want. It's guidelines and a checklist to help you feel confident and safe.''' If you can look at the risk assessment for the drilling you plan to do, and see it's fine as long as you wear safety goggles, and makespace is providing goggles for you, then you know you can go ahead :)

* ''does everyone who comes in have to sign something?'' All Founders will be signing something before they get full access to the space, and all Members will too. It will be the membership agreement (linked from makespace.org, possibly with revisions) which also requires that they abide by the posted Rules. note Rules may get updated; the membership agreement generally won't. For escorted guests (Bob, a member, brings George along) they will sign in at the door, where there will be a poster or website displaying the Rules which apply to their visit. Bob is responsible for George whilst he's in the space and has to ensure George follows the rules, otherwise there will be consequences for Bob (maybe he gets banned). For public events, we might have a guest book or not - we don't know yet. But certainly such public visitors won't be using kit except under instruction, and probably at the start of an event someone will stand up and say "here are the fire exits, don't XYZ" as normal at such events. The signing goes alongside an induction for Members. If new kit comes along that needs new induction, an existing member can't use it until they have taken the extra new induction, but of course they can be in the space near it.

''What are the risks in Makespace today?''

* slipping and falling; uneven floors in workshop

* standing on desks / chairs

* unwired 3 phase

* electrical things - see [[Electrical safety policy]]

* heavy lifting - poster on manual handling

* getting trapped in the corridor outside the toilet if out of hours (the soon-to-be fire door is locked at that time)

* (if you can think of anything else, please add it here!)

Then activities we might be doing quite soon:

* soldering

* sewing

* (anythign else? for these we'll aim to use template risk assessments from other makerspaces as a starting point)

''Other things to think about:''

* avoiding other people using tools - if you don't know how to use it or whether it's safe for you to be close, stand back

* people’s own projects - if there’s a risk to others, please label it. If it isn't what it looks like, label it. "Buttons are not toys!" "This is a hot air gun not a hairdryer"

* specific risks - e.g. unlit stairs out the back (no handrail?) -- need to talk to the university about getting this sorted

* Current signed fire exits which are not fire exits any more. Replace plastic sign on front of light boxes to say "not a fire exit"

* Templates and guidance from [http://www.hse.gov.uk/risk/assessment.htm HSE]

* note we can't just reuse existing ones! We do need to think and edit. Nice to add floor plans to our policy. Also want to look at existing ones from other makerspaces.

We might expect some of the policy to refer to the [[Safety Rules]] especially if we ask all visitors to read and sign to say they abide by them.

Meetings/Planning16-10-2012

2020-02-20T13:08:24Z

Mmorin: fixed stale link

Agenda (we only managed to get through the bits in bold!)

'''1. Welcome'''

'''2. Health and Safety rules and requirements discussion'''

- Fire risk assessments and responsible people

- First aid risk assessments and responsible people

- Electrical safety

- Overall risk assessments

- Health and safety policy drafting

- (workshop equipment specifically we'll probably come to in a later meeting)'''

3. Day 1 planning: what needs to get done once the access control+insurance are in place?

- Painting? Which areas? This is *much* easier with an empty space, especially if painting concrete floor.

- Building/buying/installing benches? Where, how many

- other important 'infrastructure' bits that should/need to happen early (additional lighting?, ventilation?)

4. Community rules discussion

5. Use case exploration and zone-planning

'''6. AOB'''

'''Meeting notes'''

We had about 14 people in total, a great turnout for health and safety!

'''Health and Safety rules and requirements discussion'''

* We talked through a description of H&S, fire and FA policies. Essentially we need a written Health and Safety policy, a written fire policy, and a written first aid policy. These will be formal documents approved by the board of Makespace Cambridge Ltd but can be public and created in a collaborative style :) The policies then need to be followed and there might be signs around the space, or things written in the Rules, which form part of the policies. The Health and Safety policy describes how we handle various risks, and alongside it we will have a set of Risk Assessments. A risk assessment isn't a big scary thing: it's just a way of setting out: (1) what's the worst that could happen, (2) how likely is it to happen, (3) What are we going to do about it. An example might be: (1) someone could trip and injure themselves on this uneven floor; (2) it's reasonably likely because the floor is uneven and it's a walkway; (3) we will use black and yellow tape to mark the uneven patch so people spot it. Each of the 3 policies will include named individuals who are responsible for certain things. These might be the directors of the Makespace company (on whose necks this all is) but they may at some point feel able to delegate some or all of the responsibility.

* Although we aren't an employer directly right now, our insurance covers employees and volunteers as the same thing, and as such we expect to follow workplace-style practices in Makespace.

* It may seem odd that things you can do at home without turning a hair aren't possible in the space. That's because the space isn't your home - this is significant - it's a public space and/or a workplace (effectively) and so extra guidance applies.

* We'll have first versions of the 3 policies for "now", and new versions for when we are open, as the risks change then.

* We'll be putting up the HSE (health and safety executive) poster about workplace safety. most of it won't really apply - because we aren't actually employees - but it's a requirement. Note that we're a limited company, not an informal group.

* Each new activity, or equipment item, or material, will need a risk assessment. most of these will be written down but some might be quite informal. For instance, laura bringing in her laptop and charger doesn't need a written risk assessment - a visual inspection shows they are very low risk and so we don't need to worry. The worst that could happen and the likelihood of that happening are not big worries. WE can start with fewer RAs in place and add more as we go.

* Working at height - going up a ladder - has an actual legal basis, and as such is different to other risks. We'll need to be extra careful (and we should look into what it entails)

* The policies need to be ''reasonable''. We don't need a written document for every tiny risk. At the same time, we can't have a blanket "you are all adults and the risks are down to you as individuals to figure out" - that's not reasonable enough :) '''Risk assessments are an enabler. They help us all understand that if we follow some basic things, we are good to do what we want. It's guidelines and a checklist to help you feel confident and safe.''' If you can look at the risk assessment for the drilling you plan to do, and see it's fine as long as you wear safety goggles, and makespace is providing goggles for you, then you know you can go ahead :)

We then talked about some specifics...

* ''does everyone who comes in have to sign something?'' All Founders will be signing something before they get full access to the space, and all Members will too. It will be the membership agreement (linked from makespace.org, possibly with revisions) which also requires that they abide by the posted Rules. note Rules may get updated; the membership agreement generally won't. For escorted guests (Bob, a member, brings George along) they will sign in at the door, where there will be a poster or website displaying the Rules which apply to their visit. Bob is responsible for George whilst he's in the space and has to ensure George follows the rules, otherwise there will be consequences for Bob (maybe he gets banned). For public events, we might have a guest book or not - we don't know yet. But certainly such public visitors won't be using kit except under instruction, and probably at the start of an event someone will stand up and say "here are the fire exits, don't XYZ" as normal at such events. The signing goes alongside an induction for Members. If new kit comes along that needs new induction, an existing member can't use it until they have taken the extra new induction, but of course they can be in the space near it.

'''We can start work on fleshing out risks and our assessments of them and sensible policies (and even just notes on what we should be thinking about) here: [[Health and Safty Policy Drafting]], [[Fire Safety Policy Drafting]], [[First Aid Policy Drafting]], [[General Risk Assessments]], [[Equipment Activity Material Risk Assessments]], and [[Electrical safety policy]] '''

''What are the risks in Makespace today?''

* slipping and falling; uneven floors in workshop

* standing on desks / chairs

* unwired 3 phase

* heavy lifting - poster on manual handling

* getting trapped in the corridor outside the toilet if out of hours (the soon-to-be fire door is locked at that time)

* (if you can think of anything else, please add it here!)

Then activities we might be doing quite soon:

* soldering

* sewing

* (anythign else? for these we'll aim to use template risk assessments from other makerspaces as a starting point)

''Other things to think about:''

* avoiding other people using tools - if you don't know how to use it or whether it's safe for you to be close, stand back

* people’s own projects - if there’s a risk to others, please label it. If it isn't what it looks like, label it. "Buttons are not toys!" "This is a hot air gun not a hairdryer"

* specific risks - e.g. unlit stairs out the back (no handrail?) -- need to talk to the university about getting this sorted

* Current signed fire exits which are not fire exits any more. Replace plastic sign on front of light boxes to say "not a fire exit"

'''Fire safety'''

* How many people can we have in the space? regulations are usually more informal for low numbers. In discussions with the univresity we've talked about up to 120 in the space. we do not have a formal maximum person limit imposed

* should we get fire authority to check space? (no one in the meeting knew)

* fire extinguishers. We have some - they are untested. We'll need to check how many we need and ensure they are regularly tested.

* Once the smoke detectors are installed, they will be connected to the building fire system. There are existing sounders in the space which are sufficient according to the university fire officer. (note if we have loud equipment, we might need to think about whether we need flashing alarms too!) We have break glass units to trigger the alarm. Can we cancel it if it goes off? Probably not. It might be nice to have the phone number for the fire office somewhere anyway.

* there was some interest in getting fire training from the "university fire in a van" people

* a landline phone might be useful for some of this H&S stuff

* do we need fire marshals? Two possibilities: (1) formal; (2) informal for big events to sweep space. The latter is not onerous. Perhaps public events
above N people where you need someone named to take responsibility, we'd want to have at least one

* audible only - special procedures for deaf people, for loud equipment, wheelchair users. This suggests an induction item - do you have any disabilities??

* great reference at sja.org - regulatory reform for fire safety - responsible person takes responsibility and appoints fire marshals. There's also a detailed guide to fire risk assessment [http://www.communities.gov.uk/documents/fire/pdf/144647.pdf]

* Lone working - we don't think we need any special rules, except for certain pieces of kit. It's ok to be alone in the space in general. we do not think there is any requirement for a lone worker to "call in" regularly or at all to announce that they are there.

* RichW, ChrisE - poss fire marshals

* storage of flammable materials - risk assessments of materials rather than activities - then you have suitable housing - COSHH regulations. Also think about plastics burning producing toxic gases….

* all FMs could be firemarshalls - easy - you want a good number

* Have a Checklist for kit and materials coming in - it’s a risk assessment - materials, fire, THIS IS A RISK ASSESSMENT. Even for personal use. How much needs to be written down and how much is a personal assessment where it’s ok? Guidelines for oK things? checklist: what’s ok to bring in; what’s not; what to do if you are unsure. can we just do risk assessments via a web form which logs… and a searchable DB so you can see if someone did it before and grab an understandable thing. Online is also useful, people can see what they need to think about, and offer updates if regs or tech changes

* updates about risk, rules etc -> will be sent to everyone via email. can people use makespace if they don’t have home/mobile internet?
There will be a kiosk computer on site for access to makespace stuff e.g. kit db, risk assessments,

'''First aid risk assessments and responsible people'''

* can we offer training?

* First aid qualifications time out - you have to redo every so often

* enough FMs with existing First aid? Not sure. - workplace first aid training is a specific grade of training - St Johns Ambulance offer voluntary (free) training.

* fairly sure that there’s no requirement for a FA on site (except for public events over a certain size, when we might need one - need to check) Having some number of random members/Founders trained would be sufficient for normal use as there would be reasonable odds that one or more of them would be in the space. Of course it's not essential that we have a FA on site at all times - think of offices, where often the FA might be away or already left or whatever.

* landline might be useful for contacting emergency services

* most first aid incidents will be either "plaster" or "ambulance"

* quite a few people happy to be trained… we should look at whether we can offer this.

'''Electrical safety'''

We discussed and the notes are now over on the [[Electrical safety policy]] page.

* PAT testing -

* bit of kit to check earth insulation - can sticker the kit to say it was done. £400.

* but other kit might need approved person??

* pat-testing.info & wikipedia

* things you use every day at work need to be tested

* exemptions for random stuff

* suggestion that the community work up a PAT policy on the wiki

* experimental / home made kit - if it’s mains - whole bunch of law. own project, for you to look up

* maybe we have a list of approved people who can sign drawn from FM community

* might be good to have someone other than the person who se kit it is looking at it.

'''Health and safety policy drafting'''

* Templates and guidance from [http://www.hse.gov.uk/risk/assessment.htm HSE]

* note we can't just reuse existing ones! We do need to think and edit. Nice to add floor plans to our policy. Also want to look at existing ones from other makerspaces.

- (workshop equipment specifically we'll probably come to in a later meeting)

''' Personal storage policy : what can we store'''

Now a working draft on [[Personal Storage Policy]]

* No smouldering materials

* No hazardous materials (COSHH) - every material has a cosh thing saying whether it needs marking, can be put in cupboard, etc. if obviously hazardous, need to get sheet and read it and follow any storage procedure

* Things should be labelled and appropriately packaged

* no food not securely packed

* no explosives

* no radioactive, chemicals, bio hazards, fuming or odorous, illegal

* what about paint stripper? you buy consumer grade thing, but now it’s in a workplace, print the data sheet and store on file. If there’s a symbol on the
back or you don’t want to drink it … orange symbol - means worry about it.

* if you make a new chemical - you don’t know if it has an orange sq - so don’t store it without checking

* note that donations might be hazardous :) stuff at home is ok but it’s not ok at works premises

* Random inspections!

* if it looks hazardous, a metal flammable liz cupboard

safestorage.co.uk

* if you printed the MSDS sheet, the sheet goes in a folder.

* no noise emitting things (no beeps every hour)

* “no active things” but ok for silent digital watch

* nothing that affects people working around it or things in adjacent

* no hot / light / emissions

* lids secured or marked or packed, (e.g. knives) , marked if super heavy

* LI ion batteries - commercial off the shelf batteries in own covering OK, your own project, not.

* fire proof areas for battery charging

* no unattended charging of non-off-the-shelf Li Ions or using non-off-shelf chargers

* Nothing obviously dangerous or illegal :)

Visible summary rules - detailed page linked off (broad rules with lots of examples)

'''AOB - engagement plan'''

We need to write an engagement plan to receive the next tranch of funds (£10000). It would be great to include all the ideas from the community. We hope to have this plan written by early November.

The plan needs to show how, during 2013, we'll engage 500 people, each for a total of 6 hours, around Makespace stuff. The engagement doesn't have to be in the space (although we'd expect a lot of it would be). The 6 hours don't have to be at once - it could be a series of 6 1 hour talks. We don't have to be supercareful about tracking the attendees but we will be trying to do this, so having a way of showing who's turned up for what will be necessary.

It would be good to gather ideas here, estimate number of people / hours that could be achieved with each, and flesh each out into a nice description that makes it clear what the activity would look like, who it would attract, and so on.

Bear in mind we'll be executing this plan later :)

All the ideas are now on [[Ideaspace engagement plan]] - go add yours, and help us estimate how many people we can engage!

'''Rules discussion'''

(also see [[Community Rules]], [[Safety Rules]] and [[Community Values]]

* want to keep to few and concise

* do we want Rules and Guidelines? separated out?

* need to have an authority who adjudicates… ‘if you break a rule or a guideline, case refereed to X committee’

* the lots of people who will use makespace are an unknown, even if we have confidence in the FOunder Members. Later there will be many more...

* simple -> just Rules

* for some things, guidelines which are flexible might be more useful - don’t force people to split hairs. more willing to self-police on Guidelines than on Rules.

* guidelines - more value oriented or outcome oriented, less specific stuff.

* we agreed to wait and see how the Rules look, and then examine them to figure out whether we think some might be better as guidelines.

Also discussed:

* importance of mission statement - everyone knows it - do we want one?

(what would it be??) Let us know: [[Mission statement]]

* Creation of 'what's being discussed' wiki page [[Currently active and interesting]]

Kit wishlist

2020-02-20T13:03:52Z

Mmorin: fixed stale links

{{Note|This page is not maintained and is of only historical interest.}}

A collection of everything that is and could be makespace:

= Kit Installed =

* [[Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment]]

= Kit Proposals =

Notes:
* We should consider what things should be brought new, second hand or fabricated ourselves using existing kit.
* When thinking about buying or making kit, we need to consider [[The Real Cost of Equipment]] and take that in to account
* For basic makespace infrastructure, some items are collected on [[Kit wishlist: basic infrastructure budget]]

=== Building Infrastructure ===

=== Main Space ===

* [[Soldering_Stations|Soldering Stations]]
* Mirror at the First Aid station (for removal of eyelashes or otherwise from eyes without having to navigate to the toilets)

=== Workshop ===

* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Large Laser Cutter]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|Large CNC Router]]
* [[CNC_Milling_Machine|CNC Milling Machine]]

* [[Lathe]]
* Milling Machine

=== Hall ===

=== Store Room ===

= Kit Wishlist =

We can't guarantee when or if we'll get any of this kit, but if there's something you'd like, let us know here. You can also help us prioritise what to get by creating and voting over at http://makespace.uservoice.com/forums/179819-kit-list

===Woodwork/metalwork===

* Aluminium forming (because local providers aren't very good)
* A big sturdy workbench with a vice
* Hacksaws and files
* A mini drilling/milling machine, for example http://www.chestermachinetools.com/Products/Product.aspx?productID=500 for making PCBs and light wood and metal work. {broken link - 3/11/2012 - roger)

* Dremel/rotary tool - many brands available; [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JyTf1tJXXo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JyTf1tJXXo] is a helpful comparison of Proxxon and Dremel mini tools and drill stands. There's a decent Axminster model for £141: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-heavy-duty-flexible-drive-unit-prod20091/

* a small manual lathe eg http://www.chestermachinetools.com/products/detail/3 plus lathe tools and a bench grinder to sharpen them.
{Chester appear to have re-organised the website <strike>so this link is broken</strike> {MB - link reestablished, please check it is the correct model!} }
I assume something like the Conquest Super is what you meant. Also take the 4-way tool-carrier off and throw it away, fit a quick-change toolpost and use indexable carbide tip tooling, grinding HSS lathe tools is a special skill. (roger)
Base price for a Conquest Lathe Super Metric, quick-change toolpost, 5pc carbide tools and drill chuck is £580 (incl vat but not incl delivery)

* A lathe manual or CNC which can cut steel comfortably, so with coolant and colchester studentish sized with digital readout

* Any decent bench drillpress, with drills, holding vice, etc. Maybe a D16 from here: http://www.chestermachinetools.com/products/detail/323 for £230+vat+shipping, plus a drill vice.

* A floor standing pillar drill

* A CNC mill conversion just like http://www.jarkman.co.uk/catalog/cnc/taigcnc.htm Good for PCBs and a lot else. Plus cutters and workholding bits. It will need its own PC, too. Also see http://www.jarkman.co.uk/catalog/cnc/
Parts for that cost him around £1500 - plus some modest assembly time, obviously.

* If possible a real mill with some kind of cnc conversion with low speed settings or just a digital readout

* A bandsaw that will run horizontal or vertical (but mostly horizontal, for chopping the ends off bars) eg http://www.chesteruk.net/store/hv128_bandsaw.htm
* another option for a chopoff saw is a circular mitre saw eg: http://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-rage-3-255mm-compound-sliding-mitre-saw-230v/65730 though possibly something a bit more robust. Then you could get a conventional bandsaw

* Tools for small-scale metalwork:
** Bench Peg And Anvil (£9.99);
** files: 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe (£10.10); Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (£18.50);
** saws: Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable (£19.00); 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame (£13.50); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12 (£2.85); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12 (£2.85); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70)
** hammering: Flat Stake - 10cm X 10cm (£18.70); Planishing Hammer Cookson Value Range (£18.25); Hammer With 25mm Nylon Head (£9.50)
** pliers: Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (£31.15); Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range (£4.91) 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action (£18.65); Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£10.45); Tweezer set (£18.80)
** soldering: Hand Torch (£20.00); Magnesia Soldering Block (£6.35); Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm (£6.50); Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g (£5.41)
** marking out: 6" Ruler (£3.40); Standard Steel Scriber (£4.10); centre punch (£5.00); digital calipers (£30.24); 3" square (£8.75)
** magnification: Optivisor 2.0x No4 (£38.00); Optivisor 2.75x No7 (£38.00)
** flexible shaft tools: Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£13.30); Polishing Kit No 2 (£43.45)
Total: £553.08 incl vat and p&p from cooksongold.com. This plus a decent flexible shaft drill lets one do quite a lot, and many items are general-purpose

* a plasma cutter (to cut steel sheet etc - more than the laser cutter is capable of)

* expect more ideas from cambridge Science Centre people :)

* Decent belt/disc sander/linisher

* Polisher for plastics and others (a grinder with attachments)

* Measuring tools - digital calipers, micrometers etc

* Sheet metal folder

* Pipe bender

* G-clamps in various sizes (ordered on eBay --- [[User:JCGS|JCGS]] 12:10, 30 November 2012 (UTC))

* Small table saw, this sort of thing: http://www.proxxon-direct.com/acatalog/Table_Saw_FET.html

* Router table?

===Electronics/PCB tools===
* Temperature-controlled soldering station(s)
* Toaster oven (for reflow soldering)
* Fume extractor(s) for above
* Bench power supplies (e.g. a mix of 5V, 12V, variable, and multi-rail PSUs)
* PCB holders or "helping hands"
* Magnifying lamps (for us old-uns!)
* Side cutters
* Abrasive pen
* Heatsink tweezers
* Multimeter(s)
* Oscilloscope (digital and/or analog)
* Logic Analyser
* Signal generator
* Wire
* Selection of basic components (res, caps, v-reg, basic digital logic, basic IC's - 555,358, connectors, cable)
* Some way to order parts (group order to Farnell/RS/Maplin)
* spectrum analyser
* ESD handling equipment, eg. anti-static mats, wrist-strap, earth points, tester
* Small CNC milling machine, desktop size for cutting PCBs.

NB. PCB etching baths and etch-resist are probably unnecessary because the milling machines would allow PCBs to be milled instead of etched.

===Printing===
* A3 postscript laser printer
* print on demand POD system
* vandercook proofpree with type - for posters etc
* Multi Function Machine ( A3 / A4 Colour Copier, Printer and Scanner)- Each Member has Pay As You go cards (Like they do in Schools)

===3D printing===
* This is the 3d printer from Portishead: http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/
* http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/08/ultimaker-theres-a-new-3d-printer-in-town.html
* 3D scanner e.g. http://www.david-laserscanner.com/
* lots of 3D pic literature in Makespace
* chocolate printer http://www.3ders.org/articles/20120406-worlds-first-3d-chocolate-printer-now-up-for-pre-order.html

===Textiles===
* Knitting machine
* Sewing machine
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlock Overlock machine], important in (semi+)professional sewing
* Embroidery machine - for this to work well you'd want to have a computer to make designs on as there is specific software. The most cheap(ish) diverse set up I'm aware of would a Brother Innov-is 750E which cost at most £900 and software costs around £300.

===Acrylic working===
For bonding, shaping or finishing acrylic in ways that can't be done by machining:

* Dichloromethane (or Evo-Stik ExtruFix) for bonding acrylic parts
* Extractor hood/fan to reduce dichloromethane inhalation risk
* Strip heater or heat gun
* Acrylic edge scraper
* Acrylic scorer
* Fine grit sandpaper
* Butane or MAPP gas torch for flame polishing (see [[#glassworking]]
* Gas for torch

= Materials =
===Laser Cutter materials===
Max Size 300mmx600mm

* Acrylic 3mm - Clear 300mm x 600mm
* Acrylic 3mm - Various colours 300mm x 600mm
* Acrylic 6mm - Clear 300mm x 600mm
* Plywood 3mm Various Sizes
* MDF 3mm (Laserable) Various Sizes
* Cardboard 3mm 300mm x 600mm
* Cardboard 5mm 300mm x 600mm
* Paper 300mm x 600mm
* Leather
* Fabric

===Modella Milling Machine materials===
Max Size 150x200mm

*Machineable wax 40mm x 90mm x 150mm
* Circuit boards 1.6mm x 1000mm x 1200mm
* Wood (Various) 150x200mm

===Shopbot CNC Router materials===
Max Size 1200mmx 2400mm x 120mm

* Plywood 3-25mm thick
* MDF 3-25mm thick
* Aluminium
* Cast Iron
* Acrylic
* Brass
* Steel
* Foam

===Vinyl Cutter materials===
* Copper Tape 3M 1126 150mm x 33m
* Vinyl roll (canary yellow) 380mm wide
* Vinyl roll (card red) 380mm wide
* Vinyl roll (royal blue) 380mm wide
* Vinyl roll (cactus green) 380mm wide
* Transfer Tape, Permacel 595B 150mmx 55m
* WHITE Epoxy film 3M 1 150mm x 90m

===3D Printer materials===

Currently the raw material costs are quite high. Therefore...

* ABS plus cartridge (white) 1000 cm3
* soluble support cartridge 1000 cm3

===Additional electronics/PCB materials===
* Flux-cored solder (please some 60/40 as well as that silly ROHS, for working with older gear and for ease of use!)
* USB microscope with monitor?

===Painting materials===
* Brushes
* Water pots
* Acrylic paints in white, black, red, yellow, blue
* Clearcoat spray and/or liquid

= Future and Archived Wishlist Items =

* '''These are items not for further consideration at this time, whether because they have been discounted or not a near-term priority'''

=== Welding ===

Welding is something we'll definitely need to talk to the landlord about - they've flagged up that the additional fire risk would mean we need to talk about fire barriers etc and can't go ahead without checking with them first. For now, we will not consider welding until Makespace is successfully up and running, at which point we may re-approach the university on this subject.

* Arc welder (a bit yuk)
* MIG welder (cheap and easy to use)
* TTG welder (suitable for aluminium)
* Welder misc: gas (eg BOC) + cage + bolt to wall, wire, tips, gloves, apron, head shields, lightproof/fireproof curtained area to protect other workers

===Safety equipment===

This should be considered as part of each equipment or area setup, rather as standalone

* Safety glasses
* Kevlar gloves for cutting
* Nitrile gloves for handling chemicals
* Lab coats to keep chemicals/paint off clothes & skin

=== Air Tools ===

Can we use the metal air-lines that are already in place?
* No, we do not plan to use air tools or the air-lines that are in place. There is no compressor, they are noisy, and the convenience/simplicity/consistency of electric tools is our choice. We have decided to leave the lines in for now, but may remove them in time.

Compressor/air for plasma and other airtools
* Cutting/drilling/polishing airtools

===Bio work===

We have no plans at present to support work with recombinant DNA or other bio work :)

===Flameworking===
If we want to be able to make borosilicate glass components at Makespace, we'll need at least the following:

* MAPP gas torch
* MAPP gas for torch
* Torch holder with metal or ceramic heatproof bench plate for rolling
* Shears
* Carbon paddle

===AV kit===
What about providing Audio Visual equipment for creating audio-visual experiences, interactive or not.
This can be combined with workshops in animation, film-making, special effects, synthesisers, computer graphics, etc.

Equipment might include: a projector screen (or white wall), a relatively good quality, high-resolution digital projector, amplifier, speakers (with good subwoofer.) Also software for animation, computer graphics, audio synthesis, video editing. Sensors for interactive experience: camera, motion sensors.

One idea is to teach 3D modelling of a character which can be part of a game/video, and also be printed on the 3D printer.

===Materials work===

For development of novel materials or layers, or devices such as solar panels
* Fume hood or cabinet

=== Other ===

* Lego (useful for prototyping shapes as well as for fun)

=== Software tools ===

Mostly just downloadable, so here just for reference

LabVIEW

Gimp - www.gimp.org/

Blender - www.blender.org/download/get-blender/

Open office - download.openoffice.org/

Inkscape - www.inkscape.org

Google Sketch up - sketchup.google.com/ with stl plugin

This plugin seems to work quite well www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl

However this program repairs any incomplete stl files www.netfabb.com/

Or this program http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/

Adobe - www.adobe.com/uk/

Qcad - www.qcad.org/qcad.html

Eagle - www.cadsoftusa.com/freeware.htm

MIT Software - http://fab.cba.mit.edu/content/tools/software/cad_cam/

Stuff to drive the smart white board eg http://osswatch.jiscinvolve.org/wp/2012/10/16/open-sankore-open-source-whiteboard-software/

=== Workshop Setup References ===

===The FabLab kit===

Fab Labs share core capabilities, so that people and projects can be shared across them. This currently includes:
# A computer-controlled lasercutter, for press-fit assembly of 3D structures from 2D parts
# A larger (4'x8') numerically-controlled milling machine, for making furniture- (and house-) sized parts
# A vinylcutter, to produce signs, printing masks, flexible circuits, and antennas
# A precision (micron resolution) milling machine to make three-dimensional moulds and surface-mounted circuit boards
# Electronics assembly
# Programming tools for low-cost high-speed embedded processors
# Sewing and embroidery equipment
# You can read more about how Fab Labs started by following this link. www.cba.mit.edu.

There is also a wealth of know-how on Fab Lab equipment and projects.

A la Manchester:
* Dimension 1200es Series 3D Printer
* Epilog Mini 24 Laser Cutter
* Roland Modela MDX-20 Desktop Miller
* Roland Vinyl Cutter
* Shopbot CNC Router
* Janome Memory Craft 200e Embroidery Machine
* 'Fab Vac' Vac former

IEEE Spectrum: http://spectrum.ieee.org/geek-life/hands-on/diy-essentials/0

Full fab lab list: http://fab.cba.mit.edu/about/fab/inv.html

workshop in a container: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsejLtLc70nwdG5DeVJmOVA4OUxpcXl6alFaNzh5Unc&hl=en_US#gid=0

A great outline of prototyping kit and space suggestions from Phil Keenan: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwrlF51mx2ojYTQ5MzA1NGItZDBmNi00YmViLWJjODktYzlkM2M1OTAwNmQ0

File:Heat vinyl 100 polyester.JPG

2020-02-19T17:04:43Z

Mmorin: Mmorin uploaded a new version of "File:Heat vinyl 100 polyester.JPG"

Result of heat-pressing a vinyl on 100% polyester.

File:Heat vinyl 100 polyester.JPG

2020-02-19T17:01:23Z

Mmorin: Mmorin uploaded a new version of "File:Heat vinyl 100 polyester.JPG"

Result of heat-pressing a vinyl on 100% polyester.

Equipment/TShirtPress

2020-02-19T15:41:53Z

Mmorin: added image

The TShirt Press transfers iron-on vinyl (NOT the sticky type!) to TShirts and other clothing. Cut it out with the vinyl cutter, transfer it with the heat press. Works like an iron, except with uniform temperature, pressure and it automatically stops when it's finished.

[http://www.lovecut.co.uk/16x20-clam-heat-press-automatic-439-p.asp LoveCut Automatic 16" x 20" Heat Press]

The TShirt Press is orange, "Take Care". But you can use it without training.

[[TShirtsGallery|Gallery page of finished TShirts]]

== Owners ==

* Jo (informally)

== Training ==

See the owners for occasional demos and training.

== Warnings ==

*Machine gets hot, especially upper platen
*Do not trap any part of yourself or anyone else in it
*The lid springs up automatically on completion, do not be above it when this happens.
*Turn off after use
*Only use heat-press vinyl, NOT the sticky backed stuff.

== Instructions ==

'''Read all instructions and warnings before you start'''<br>

If using sticky vinyl, ie NOT HeatTShirtVinyl, see [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter]] for instructions without mirroring.

Overall idea:
*Create in Inkscape (see notes below about scaling if you use Illustrator!)
**There are TShirt creation resources on the Vinyl Cutter machine (templates etc)
*Load into SureCutsALot
*Cut on the Silver Bullet
*Press on the heat press

Detail:
*Create your vinyl masterpiece in Inkscape
**Convert all your objects to path
**Check with view outlines it's what you want (line thickness is ignored remember)
**View -> Display Mode -> Outline
**Save as SVG
**
*Import into Sure Cuts A Lot (SCAL) on the vinyl cutter PC
**Check scale (you'll need to make things 25% larger if using Illustrator. Please don't change SCAL import settings)
**Mirror it (Menu: Object -> Transform -> Flip horizontal)
**View as outline to check (sometimes this will show things that it otherwise hides)
**Position top right in SCAL (**add this to the normal cutter instructions)
**Check tool offset is 0.25mm (Cutter -> Cutter Settings)
**Check mat orientation in SCAL

'''Set up Silver Bullet'''
*Check correct tip installed (45 degree standard cutter, "Click blade holder", the red one)
*Only ever use hot press Tshirt Heat Vinyl. The sticky backed vinyl is unsuitable.
*Please put money for the vinyl in the honesty box straight away
*Load up Silver Bullet with Heat Vinyl (matt side up)
*Use the Silver Bullet Cutting Sheet to make life easy, you can get away
without it for large vinyl pieces but it sometimes buckles. Portrait or Landscape to match Cutting Sheet.
*Check cut depth on red Click Blade Holder (4?)
*ZERO it (offline mode, cross hair button).
**After Zeroing, press Test to do a test rectangle. Check it cuts the vinyl but not the backing.
*Move cutting head to bottom right of sheet (material at back of printer) and zero it (offline, cross hair)
*Double check you zero'd it and press Online on the Silver Bullet.

'''In SCAL:'''
**Delete any colours you're not cutting (undo with ctrl-Z later, but don't undo your mirroring!)
**Menu: Cutter -> Cut With Silver Bullet.
**Select Use Software Speed and Pressure. Set to Speed = 200 and f=60. (only use f=60 if you have a backing sheet. may need less if feeding from a roll. speed=200 unknown if optimum)
**Select "Origin Point". Bottom right of piece to match location in SCAL.
**Check Silver Bullet is Online.
**"Cut" to start
**Will start immediately. If there is a delay, you probably forgot Online mode and you should wait for it to download before pressing Online (probably - needs checking)

Pay for your vinyl
*Cut the backing sheet roughly to size - you can reuse largish areas of uncut vinyl.
*Peel away the vinyl that you don't want on your finished design from the backing sheet (this is tricky and you might need a craft knife to separate the layers)
*Weed it (remove the bits you don't want from the backing sheet with pointy thing and tweezers).
*Stick piece to TShirt. Worn TShirts look more narrow, so stick to the centre area.
**Shiny side up. Backing is sticky side down (won't mark TShirt, but will help keep things located)
**Backing is sticky, everything is the right way round at this point and you can see what you're doing
**Check you've got front and back of TShirt the right way round.

Start up the TShirt press
*Be careful - the TShirt Press upper platen gets hot
*Check the machine is in order. No frayed wires, damage etc.
*With the machine off, check the lid can be pressed down firmly (it will not latch with the power off)
*Turn the machine on
**Switch on the right side, at the back of the press.
**30 Minute limit is on a green button. Clear directions to find this are near/under the machine. (This is to stop the machine being left on after use.)
*Lower the lid slightly to adjust the settings on the back. (Press warms up straight away - caution, hot!)
**There are three modes, the default displays the current temperature at the top and the desired temp at the bottom
**Click SET button and it moves to "SH". Adjust temp with up/down.
**Click SET again and it moves to "ST. Adjust time (in seconds) with up/down.
**Click SET once more to return to the default temperature indication.
**Suggested settings: temp=160 time=16 (seconds). Varies with different vinyls.
**Upper readout shows current temp, wait for it to hit 160 degrees.
**UPPER PLATEN HOT

Lay out and press your TShirt
*UPPER PLATEN VERY HOT
**Optionally flatten your TShirt in the Heat Press (whole TShirt between the platens, press down gently for a few seconds, not far enough for the magnet to catch and timer to start, but don't worry if it does). UPPER PLATEN HOT be careful.
*Lay out your TShirt on the table (facing you if you want to print on the front, etc)
*After the weeding (removal of bits you don't want) there is a tacky backing to the clear carrier. This goes face down against the TShirt (don't worry, won't stick)
*Place the vinyl on the TShirt, dull sticky side down, shiny carrier towards you, everything the correct way round.
*Bear in mind that the TShirt will be super wide when flattened, so stay in the central half.
*Generally designs go much higher up a TShirt than you might think - the centre is often around the midpoint of the arms. Look at other TShirts or try TShirt on in the mirror to get an idea.
*Insert the whole TShirt between the platens being VERY CAREFUL of the top bed. It's hot and easy to catch yourself on it, especially at the back. Be careful not to dislodge your masterpiece.
**Make it wrinkle free but not stretched.
*Make sure you, other users and objects are clear of the platens
*Carefully but firmly push the clamp down until it clicks into position. The timer will start and the lid will hold itself down.
**Keep clear of the lid, it will pop up automatically on completion or at any time if power is cut.
**When the timer has elapsed, the lid will gently pop up.
*Remove the backing sheet while still hot (this may differ between vinyls)
*'''Turn the machine off after use'''
*Carefully remove TShirt, being careful of the hot upper platen.

'''Double check you have turned the TShirt Press off, paid for your vinyl and tidied up'''

Warnings
*Do not trap any part of you or anyone else in the press.
*Do not trap any cables or other equipment in the press.
*The lid pops up when it's finished - do not be near it when it is clamped down
*Do not put anything in the heat press other than clothing. No paper, tissue, bacon or pizza. No matter how tempting that is.

==Different materials==

=== Procedure for a new material ===

Follow this procedure with a new material, where we take the example of 100% polyester, then report your success or failure here. Please note that safety is still your responsibility, i.e. you should ensure that the materials you use can take the heat and will not release toxic fumes.

* find a substrate similar to your target material to use as testing
* find the maximum temperature that your substrate can take (e.g., [https://www.thespruce.com/select-correct-ironing-temperature-for-fabrics-2146186 148ºC for polyester])
* find the minimum temperature at to melt the glue in the heat vinyl (e.g., [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer_vinyl 125-150ºC for most heat vinyls])
* use judgment to set the machine to a reasonable temperature and duration:
** one suggestion is to leave for 30 seconds at the maximum temperature of the substrate
** another suggestion is to find the equivalent of the baseline recommendation of 16 seconds at 160ºC (e.g., 20 seconds at 148ºC for 100% polyester substrate and the heat vinyl in stock)
** either way, remember not to expose heat vinyl for longer than 30 seconds (so 15 seconds for each of two colours, 10 seconds for each of 3 colours, etc.)
* test the temperature and duration on the similar material, then adjust as needed
* heat press on the target material
* report results here and share a picture to made@makespace.org

=== Results on different materials ===

We've had success with the following materials:

'''100% polyester, e.g. for sports t-shirts: 20 seconds at 148ºC:'''

[[File:Heat_vinyl_100_polyester.JPG]]

== Advanced Tips ==

*Consider a stencil font to make weeding faster and easier (eg Bodoni)
*If you have individual shapes or letters, place a box or ellipse in the unwanted space around them, to separate the weeding into smaller chunks.
*To stack colours, you can either cut around them and line them up together, or heat press the lowest colour and then heat press the next one.
**Multi colours are easier than expected: you can overly vinyl onto previous layers (don't stack the backing sheets though - do multiple presses). (Cannot stack flock nor reflective / shiny / gold / irridescent / silver etc)

== Vinyl Stock ==

Heat press vinyl stock (NOT the sticky backed type) is available on the usual honesty box system. Please pay for all vinyl that you use or damage by the sheet. We restock from the honesty box and this expected to be self sustaining. We do not make any profit on the honesty boxes.

== Problems ==

See the [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter#Problems|vinyl cutter]] page if having problems connecting to the Silver Bullet.

[[Equipment/TShirtPress/RiskAssessment|Risk Assessment]]

File:Heat vinyl 100 polyester.JPG

2020-02-19T15:40:43Z

Mmorin: Result of heat-pressing a vinyl on 100% polyester.

Result of heat-pressing a vinyl on 100% polyester.

Equipment/TShirtPress

2020-02-19T15:34:31Z

Mmorin: added success with polyester

The TShirt Press transfers iron-on vinyl (NOT the sticky type!) to TShirts and other clothing. Cut it out with the vinyl cutter, transfer it with the heat press. Works like an iron, except with uniform temperature, pressure and it automatically stops when it's finished.

[http://www.lovecut.co.uk/16x20-clam-heat-press-automatic-439-p.asp LoveCut Automatic 16" x 20" Heat Press]

The TShirt Press is orange, "Take Care". But you can use it without training.

[[TShirtsGallery|Gallery page of finished TShirts]]

== Owners ==

* Jo (informally)

== Training ==

See the owners for occasional demos and training.

== Warnings ==

*Machine gets hot, especially upper platen
*Do not trap any part of yourself or anyone else in it
*The lid springs up automatically on completion, do not be above it when this happens.
*Turn off after use
*Only use heat-press vinyl, NOT the sticky backed stuff.

== Instructions ==

'''Read all instructions and warnings before you start'''<br>

If using sticky vinyl, ie NOT HeatTShirtVinyl, see [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter]] for instructions without mirroring.

Overall idea:
*Create in Inkscape (see notes below about scaling if you use Illustrator!)
**There are TShirt creation resources on the Vinyl Cutter machine (templates etc)
*Load into SureCutsALot
*Cut on the Silver Bullet
*Press on the heat press

Detail:
*Create your vinyl masterpiece in Inkscape
**Convert all your objects to path
**Check with view outlines it's what you want (line thickness is ignored remember)
**View -> Display Mode -> Outline
**Save as SVG
**
*Import into Sure Cuts A Lot (SCAL) on the vinyl cutter PC
**Check scale (you'll need to make things 25% larger if using Illustrator. Please don't change SCAL import settings)
**Mirror it (Menu: Object -> Transform -> Flip horizontal)
**View as outline to check (sometimes this will show things that it otherwise hides)
**Position top right in SCAL (**add this to the normal cutter instructions)
**Check tool offset is 0.25mm (Cutter -> Cutter Settings)
**Check mat orientation in SCAL

'''Set up Silver Bullet'''
*Check correct tip installed (45 degree standard cutter, "Click blade holder", the red one)
*Only ever use hot press Tshirt Heat Vinyl. The sticky backed vinyl is unsuitable.
*Please put money for the vinyl in the honesty box straight away
*Load up Silver Bullet with Heat Vinyl (matt side up)
*Use the Silver Bullet Cutting Sheet to make life easy, you can get away
without it for large vinyl pieces but it sometimes buckles. Portrait or Landscape to match Cutting Sheet.
*Check cut depth on red Click Blade Holder (4?)
*ZERO it (offline mode, cross hair button).
**After Zeroing, press Test to do a test rectangle. Check it cuts the vinyl but not the backing.
*Move cutting head to bottom right of sheet (material at back of printer) and zero it (offline, cross hair)
*Double check you zero'd it and press Online on the Silver Bullet.

'''In SCAL:'''
**Delete any colours you're not cutting (undo with ctrl-Z later, but don't undo your mirroring!)
**Menu: Cutter -> Cut With Silver Bullet.
**Select Use Software Speed and Pressure. Set to Speed = 200 and f=60. (only use f=60 if you have a backing sheet. may need less if feeding from a roll. speed=200 unknown if optimum)
**Select "Origin Point". Bottom right of piece to match location in SCAL.
**Check Silver Bullet is Online.
**"Cut" to start
**Will start immediately. If there is a delay, you probably forgot Online mode and you should wait for it to download before pressing Online (probably - needs checking)

Pay for your vinyl
*Cut the backing sheet roughly to size - you can reuse largish areas of uncut vinyl.
*Peel away the vinyl that you don't want on your finished design from the backing sheet (this is tricky and you might need a craft knife to separate the layers)
*Weed it (remove the bits you don't want from the backing sheet with pointy thing and tweezers).
*Stick piece to TShirt. Worn TShirts look more narrow, so stick to the centre area.
**Shiny side up. Backing is sticky side down (won't mark TShirt, but will help keep things located)
**Backing is sticky, everything is the right way round at this point and you can see what you're doing
**Check you've got front and back of TShirt the right way round.

Start up the TShirt press
*Be careful - the TShirt Press upper platen gets hot
*Check the machine is in order. No frayed wires, damage etc.
*With the machine off, check the lid can be pressed down firmly (it will not latch with the power off)
*Turn the machine on
**Switch on the right side, at the back of the press.
**30 Minute limit is on a green button. Clear directions to find this are near/under the machine. (This is to stop the machine being left on after use.)
*Lower the lid slightly to adjust the settings on the back. (Press warms up straight away - caution, hot!)
**There are three modes, the default displays the current temperature at the top and the desired temp at the bottom
**Click SET button and it moves to "SH". Adjust temp with up/down.
**Click SET again and it moves to "ST. Adjust time (in seconds) with up/down.
**Click SET once more to return to the default temperature indication.
**Suggested settings: temp=160 time=16 (seconds). Varies with different vinyls.
**Upper readout shows current temp, wait for it to hit 160 degrees.
**UPPER PLATEN HOT

Lay out and press your TShirt
*UPPER PLATEN VERY HOT
**Optionally flatten your TShirt in the Heat Press (whole TShirt between the platens, press down gently for a few seconds, not far enough for the magnet to catch and timer to start, but don't worry if it does). UPPER PLATEN HOT be careful.
*Lay out your TShirt on the table (facing you if you want to print on the front, etc)
*After the weeding (removal of bits you don't want) there is a tacky backing to the clear carrier. This goes face down against the TShirt (don't worry, won't stick)
*Place the vinyl on the TShirt, dull sticky side down, shiny carrier towards you, everything the correct way round.
*Bear in mind that the TShirt will be super wide when flattened, so stay in the central half.
*Generally designs go much higher up a TShirt than you might think - the centre is often around the midpoint of the arms. Look at other TShirts or try TShirt on in the mirror to get an idea.
*Insert the whole TShirt between the platens being VERY CAREFUL of the top bed. It's hot and easy to catch yourself on it, especially at the back. Be careful not to dislodge your masterpiece.
**Make it wrinkle free but not stretched.
*Make sure you, other users and objects are clear of the platens
*Carefully but firmly push the clamp down until it clicks into position. The timer will start and the lid will hold itself down.
**Keep clear of the lid, it will pop up automatically on completion or at any time if power is cut.
**When the timer has elapsed, the lid will gently pop up.
*Remove the backing sheet while still hot (this may differ between vinyls)
*'''Turn the machine off after use'''
*Carefully remove TShirt, being careful of the hot upper platen.

'''Double check you have turned the TShirt Press off, paid for your vinyl and tidied up'''

Warnings
*Do not trap any part of you or anyone else in the press.
*Do not trap any cables or other equipment in the press.
*The lid pops up when it's finished - do not be near it when it is clamped down
*Do not put anything in the heat press other than clothing. No paper, tissue, bacon or pizza. No matter how tempting that is.

==Different materials==

=== Procedure for a new material ===

Follow this procedure with a new material, where we take the example of 100% polyester, then report your success or failure here. Please note that safety is still your responsibility, i.e. you should ensure that the materials you use can take the heat and will not release toxic fumes.

* find a substrate similar to your target material to use as testing
* find the maximum temperature that your substrate can take (e.g., [https://www.thespruce.com/select-correct-ironing-temperature-for-fabrics-2146186 148ºC for polyester])
* find the minimum temperature at to melt the glue in the heat vinyl (e.g., [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer_vinyl 125-150ºC for most heat vinyls])
* use judgment to set the machine to a reasonable temperature and duration:
** one suggestion is to leave for 30 seconds at the maximum temperature of the substrate
** another suggestion is to find the equivalent of the baseline recommendation of 16 seconds at 160ºC (e.g., 20 seconds at 148ºC for 100% polyester substrate and the heat vinyl in stock)
** either way, remember not to expose heat vinyl for longer than 30 seconds (so 15 seconds for each of two colours, 10 seconds for each of 3 colours, etc.)
* test the temperature and duration on the similar material, then adjust as needed
* heat press on the target material
* report results here and share a picture to made@makespace.org

=== Results on different materials ===

We've had success with the following materials:

* 100% polyester, e.g. for sports t-shirts: 20 seconds at 148ºC

== Advanced Tips ==

*Consider a stencil font to make weeding faster and easier (eg Bodoni)
*If you have individual shapes or letters, place a box or ellipse in the unwanted space around them, to separate the weeding into smaller chunks.
*To stack colours, you can either cut around them and line them up together, or heat press the lowest colour and then heat press the next one.
**Multi colours are easier than expected: you can overly vinyl onto previous layers (don't stack the backing sheets though - do multiple presses). (Cannot stack flock nor reflective / shiny / gold / irridescent / silver etc)

== Vinyl Stock ==

Heat press vinyl stock (NOT the sticky backed type) is available on the usual honesty box system. Please pay for all vinyl that you use or damage by the sheet. We restock from the honesty box and this expected to be self sustaining. We do not make any profit on the honesty boxes.

== Problems ==

See the [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter#Problems|vinyl cutter]] page if having problems connecting to the Silver Bullet.

[[Equipment/TShirtPress/RiskAssessment|Risk Assessment]]

Equipment/TShirtPress

2020-02-19T15:20:13Z

Mmorin: updated owners

The TShirt Press transfers iron-on vinyl (NOT the sticky type!) to TShirts and other clothing. Cut it out with the vinyl cutter, transfer it with the heat press. Works like an iron, except with uniform temperature, pressure and it automatically stops when it's finished.

[http://www.lovecut.co.uk/16x20-clam-heat-press-automatic-439-p.asp LoveCut Automatic 16" x 20" Heat Press]

The TShirt Press is orange, "Take Care". But you can use it without training.

[[TShirtsGallery|Gallery page of finished TShirts]]

== Owners ==

* Jo (informally)

== Training ==

See the owners for occasional demos and training.

== Warnings ==

*Machine gets hot, especially upper platen
*Do not trap any part of yourself or anyone else in it
*The lid springs up automatically on completion, do not be above it when this happens.
*Turn off after use
*Only use heat-press vinyl, NOT the sticky backed stuff.

== Instructions ==

'''Read all instructions and warnings before you start'''<br>

If using sticky vinyl, ie NOT HeatTShirtVinyl, see [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter]] for instructions without mirroring.

Overall idea:
*Create in Inkscape (see notes below about scaling if you use Illustrator!)
**There are TShirt creation resources on the Vinyl Cutter machine (templates etc)
*Load into SureCutsALot
*Cut on the Silver Bullet
*Press on the heat press

Detail:
*Create your vinyl masterpiece in Inkscape
**Convert all your objects to path
**Check with view outlines it's what you want (line thickness is ignored remember)
**View -> Display Mode -> Outline
**Save as SVG
**
*Import into Sure Cuts A Lot (SCAL) on the vinyl cutter PC
**Check scale (you'll need to make things 25% larger if using Illustrator. Please don't change SCAL import settings)
**Mirror it (Menu: Object -> Transform -> Flip horizontal)
**View as outline to check (sometimes this will show things that it otherwise hides)
**Position top right in SCAL (**add this to the normal cutter instructions)
**Check tool offset is 0.25mm (Cutter -> Cutter Settings)
**Check mat orientation in SCAL

'''Set up Silver Bullet'''
*Check correct tip installed (45 degree standard cutter, "Click blade holder", the red one)
*Only ever use hot press Tshirt Heat Vinyl. The sticky backed vinyl is unsuitable.
*Please put money for the vinyl in the honesty box straight away
*Load up Silver Bullet with Heat Vinyl (matt side up)
*Use the Silver Bullet Cutting Sheet to make life easy, you can get away
without it for large vinyl pieces but it sometimes buckles. Portrait or Landscape to match Cutting Sheet.
*Check cut depth on red Click Blade Holder (4?)
*ZERO it (offline mode, cross hair button).
**After Zeroing, press Test to do a test rectangle. Check it cuts the vinyl but not the backing.
*Move cutting head to bottom right of sheet (material at back of printer) and zero it (offline, cross hair)
*Double check you zero'd it and press Online on the Silver Bullet.

'''In SCAL:'''
**Delete any colours you're not cutting (undo with ctrl-Z later, but don't undo your mirroring!)
**Menu: Cutter -> Cut With Silver Bullet.
**Select Use Software Speed and Pressure. Set to Speed = 200 and f=60. (only use f=60 if you have a backing sheet. may need less if feeding from a roll. speed=200 unknown if optimum)
**Select "Origin Point". Bottom right of piece to match location in SCAL.
**Check Silver Bullet is Online.
**"Cut" to start
**Will start immediately. If there is a delay, you probably forgot Online mode and you should wait for it to download before pressing Online (probably - needs checking)

Pay for your vinyl
*Cut the backing sheet roughly to size - you can reuse largish areas of uncut vinyl.
*Peel away the vinyl that you don't want on your finished design from the backing sheet (this is tricky and you might need a craft knife to separate the layers)
*Weed it (remove the bits you don't want from the backing sheet with pointy thing and tweezers).
*Stick piece to TShirt. Worn TShirts look more narrow, so stick to the centre area.
**Shiny side up. Backing is sticky side down (won't mark TShirt, but will help keep things located)
**Backing is sticky, everything is the right way round at this point and you can see what you're doing
**Check you've got front and back of TShirt the right way round.

Start up the TShirt press
*Be careful - the TShirt Press upper platen gets hot
*Check the machine is in order. No frayed wires, damage etc.
*With the machine off, check the lid can be pressed down firmly (it will not latch with the power off)
*Turn the machine on
**Switch on the right side, at the back of the press.
**30 Minute limit is on a green button. Clear directions to find this are near/under the machine. (This is to stop the machine being left on after use.)
*Lower the lid slightly to adjust the settings on the back. (Press warms up straight away - caution, hot!)
**There are three modes, the default displays the current temperature at the top and the desired temp at the bottom
**Click SET button and it moves to "SH". Adjust temp with up/down.
**Click SET again and it moves to "ST. Adjust time (in seconds) with up/down.
**Click SET once more to return to the default temperature indication.
**Suggested settings: temp=160 time=16 (seconds). Varies with different vinyls.
**Upper readout shows current temp, wait for it to hit 160 degrees.
**UPPER PLATEN HOT

Lay out and press your TShirt
*UPPER PLATEN VERY HOT
**Optionally flatten your TShirt in the Heat Press (whole TShirt between the platens, press down gently for a few seconds, not far enough for the magnet to catch and timer to start, but don't worry if it does). UPPER PLATEN HOT be careful.
*Lay out your TShirt on the table (facing you if you want to print on the front, etc)
*After the weeding (removal of bits you don't want) there is a tacky backing to the clear carrier. This goes face down against the TShirt (don't worry, won't stick)
*Place the vinyl on the TShirt, dull sticky side down, shiny carrier towards you, everything the correct way round.
*Bear in mind that the TShirt will be super wide when flattened, so stay in the central half.
*Generally designs go much higher up a TShirt than you might think - the centre is often around the midpoint of the arms. Look at other TShirts or try TShirt on in the mirror to get an idea.
*Insert the whole TShirt between the platens being VERY CAREFUL of the top bed. It's hot and easy to catch yourself on it, especially at the back. Be careful not to dislodge your masterpiece.
**Make it wrinkle free but not stretched.
*Make sure you, other users and objects are clear of the platens
*Carefully but firmly push the clamp down until it clicks into position. The timer will start and the lid will hold itself down.
**Keep clear of the lid, it will pop up automatically on completion or at any time if power is cut.
**When the timer has elapsed, the lid will gently pop up.
*Remove the backing sheet while still hot (this may differ between vinyls)
*'''Turn the machine off after use'''
*Carefully remove TShirt, being careful of the hot upper platen.

'''Double check you have turned the TShirt Press off, paid for your vinyl and tidied up'''

Warnings
*Do not trap any part of you or anyone else in the press.
*Do not trap any cables or other equipment in the press.
*The lid pops up when it's finished - do not be near it when it is clamped down
*Do not put anything in the heat press other than clothing. No paper, tissue, bacon or pizza. No matter how tempting that is.

== Advanced Tips ==

*Consider a stencil font to make weeding faster and easier (eg Bodoni)
*If you have individual shapes or letters, place a box or ellipse in the unwanted space around them, to separate the weeding into smaller chunks.
*To stack colours, you can either cut around them and line them up together, or heat press the lowest colour and then heat press the next one.
**Multi colours are easier than expected: you can overly vinyl onto previous layers (don't stack the backing sheets though - do multiple presses). (Cannot stack flock nor reflective / shiny / gold / irridescent / silver etc)

== Vinyl Stock ==

Heat press vinyl stock (NOT the sticky backed type) is available on the usual honesty box system. Please pay for all vinyl that you use or damage by the sheet. We restock from the honesty box and this expected to be self sustaining. We do not make any profit on the honesty boxes.

== Problems ==

See the [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter#Problems|vinyl cutter]] page if having problems connecting to the Silver Bullet.

[[Equipment/TShirtPress/RiskAssessment|Risk Assessment]]

Equipment/Laser Cutter

2020-02-01T10:27:48Z

Mmorin: added PIN

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Laser Cutter

[[File:Makespace-laser-cutter.JPG|thumb|460px|right|Our LS6090 PRO Laser Cutter]]

= Summary =

We have two LS 6090 PRO Laser Cutters. Each has a working area of 900mm by 600mm, and is powered by a 60w CO2 Water Cooled Laser Tube that can engrave and cut through materials such as wood, plastic, card, leather, fabrics, up to about 10-15mm thick (note, it can not cut metal). The laser cut is approximately 0.15mm wide, and a job can take a few seconds through to tens of minutes depending on material thickness and design complexity.

We have dedicated PCs running LaserCut 5.3 software to import, prepare and download jobs to the Laser Cutter. It can import various formats, with DXF being the most commonly used, so various software packages can be used to create your designs.

Here are some examples of laser jobs we've run (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:Laser-cut-focus-tool.JPG
File:Laser-cut-front-panels.JPG
File:Laser-cut-lizards.JPG
File:Laser-cut-m-and-s.JPG
File:Laser-cut-model-building.JPG
File:Laser-cut-ply-m.JPG
File:Laser_output_-_makespace_arrow.JPG
File:Laser_box.jpg
File:Croc-small.jpg
File:LaserCutter_Jobs_1.jpg
File:LaserCutterGallery_20130328.jpg
File:LasercutSettlers.jpg
File:Wolfstock1.jpg
File:Mug-holder.jpg
File:2013-10-21 20.10.06.jpg
File:Indy jigster.png
</gallery>

= Using the Laser Cutters =

The laser cutters are a great way to easily produce accurate and complex 2D forms in various materials, and can be designed for with limited experience in various drawing or CAD applications. At the same time, it is an expensive tool with real risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. '''You must only use the laser cutter if you have been trained, and if you are ever in any doubt about something, please ask for assistance.'''

== Owners ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the laser cutter, organising maintenance, responding to technical issues and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the Laser Cutter are:

* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]
* [[User:DianaProbst|Diana Probst]]

== Trainers ==

The Trainers are those who have volunteered to teach others to use the laser cutter and to promote good working practice. The current Trainers for the Laser Cutter are:

* Brian Starkey
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]
* [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]
* Katy Marshall

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the laser cutter, please use the forum page:
* [http://makespace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=45 Laser Cutter Log]

For the old mailing list thread see here:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/Tmce2iKVzD8/discussion Log : Laser Cutter]

== Betsy's PIN ==

Betsy's computer now has a PIN, which you can find on stickers the desk under the keyboard and on the wall near the top right of the computer screen.

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the laser cutter and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Laser Cutter Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training|Laser Cutter Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

The laser cutter is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the laser cutter are:
* '''ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE LASER CUTTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''
* '''KNOW WHAT TO DO IF A FIRE BREAKS OUT'''
* '''NEVER CUT MATERIALS THAT YOU DON'T KNOW ARE SAFE'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''FIRE (under normal operation)''' - Cutting at the wrong speed or the wrong power can result in the material igniting
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur
* Small flashes of flame that don't hang around for a fraction of a second are acceptable, but any more is rare and not acceptable
* If a fire does take, this is the process you should follow (from minor to major):
** Press "pause" (the same button you started the job with) - This will turn the laser off so no more heat enters, and assuming the flame goes out, you can press "start" for the job to continue where it left off
** Open the lid - With the job paused, you can open the lid to blow out the flame. Again, it is possible to re-close the lid and continue where you left off
** Move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics; alternatively send the laser to home/datum), and smother with a spare sheet of material or blow out
** Use the workshop CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at

'''FIRE (abnormal operation)''' - If the head gets stuck or something else goes wrong, ignition could happen much more suddenly or intensely
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur
* If the head gets trapped (e.g. tomb-stoning of a piece, mechanical failure) or any other problem occurs that causes or could cause fire, this is the process you should follow:
** Hit the emergency stop
** Open the lid and move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics)
** Blow out, smother with a spare sheet of material, or use the CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame as appropriate
* Ensure a Maintainer looks at the machine before it is brought back in to action if it is not obvious what went wrong and all is ok
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at

'''FUMES''' - The laser cutting process will release different smoke and fumes depending on the material.
* Never cut PVC or a material you are not sure is safe. When PVC is heated it releases chlorine gas, this mixes with the moisture in the air and the result is hydrochloric acid which is toxic to humans and corrosive to machines.
* Ensure the filter is on and the cutter lid stays closed for a while after a job to allow the fumes to clear.
* If you are feeling strange, think the fume build up is too much, or for any other reason you are unsure, stop the job.

'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the cutter can be moved by the front panel menu or programs in the machines memory.
* Be careful when working inside the cutting area or with the lid open not to trap hands, hair, clothing or anything else.
* Always check the machine for unexpected items that may have fallen in before closing the lid.
* Do not attempt to climb into the machine!

'''LASER BURNS/LIGHT''' - A 60W laser can do real damage.
* The laser should be safe within the confines of the machine, and cut-off automatically when the lid is open (although this should not be relied upon). The top window is safe to look through during a job, but do not attempt to interfere with these windows or the laser or in any way invent some way to look at the laser.
* Do not tamper with the laser cutter, or any interlocks. All side panels of the laser should always be closed and locked whilst the machine is plugged in.
* Do not put metal in the laser cutter.

== Can I cut it? ==

If it's not on this list, the answer is "NO YOU CAN'T CUT IT AT MAKESPACE". Even if other people say it's ok. Bear in mind that we can't ventilate externally like other people can.

If it's something that isn't covered here, do ask on the forums and we'll look into it :)

*Woody things
** Wood: yes! (be careful of fire)
** Plywood: yes if it is "laser ply". Normal plywood has non-laser compatible glue
** MDF: no. Clogs up our filters and smells bad.
** LaserMDF: no. It produces perhaps 50% the gunk of MDF but still too much.
** Cork: yes, but it with a badly charred edge, and won't cut very deeply --- try cutting from the back of your sheet and using the cut to guide a craft knife / scalpel to make a neat cut through to the front.

*Plasticy things
** Acrylic / Perspex: yes!
** PVC/Vinyl: absolutely not. Produces chlorine.
** Silicone: we tried it with very limited success. A mm or two perhaps, anything else chars and doesn't cut.
** White Delrin/Acetal: yes with great care. Make sure filters running well. Don't open lid too quickly. Check for fumes and fire.
** Black Delrin/Acetal: no. contains carbon black which can be toxic.
** Teflon: no (it is toxic)
** Nylon: no (consult an owner)
** Polythene/polyethylene: no (consult an owner)
** Lexan/Polycarbonate: no (consult an owner)
** Polypropylene: yes just. You must clean the bed. It will cut up to about 2mm. It's not a great quality cut, but just about doable. Fire risk.
** GPPS / Polystyrene / HIPS in thin solid sheet form: maybe. ask owner to help. NO FOAM (it's highly flammable)

* Leathery things
** Treated leather: no, because it releases formaldehyde (more details to follow)
** bicast leather or pu leather (or bycast leather, or bi-cast leather): NO! It may contain vinyl, which is poisonous when cut with laser. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicast_leather.
** Untreated leather: yes (more details to follow)
** If unsure, don't cut it

*Papery things
** Card/Paper: yes! (be careful of fire)
** Tissue: yes if super super really careful (be REALLY careful of fire, have emergency procedure in place before you start)

*Metally things
** Metal of any thickness doesn't cut. The surface can be engraved with a paint application. LMM6000 Surmark/Thermark has been tested and is suggested for use, but expensive. The owners suggest a speed of 800 and maximum power.

*Exotics
** Fibre glass: no (unknown resin, glass particles)
** Carbon Fibre: no
** Slate: engravable for good effect

Good list of info here: http://inventionstudio.gatech.edu/wiki/Laser_cutter (page disappeared, some time before 2016-12-12)

Very detailed cutting properties here: http://microfluidics.cnsi.ucsb.edu/tools/Trotec_laser_cutter/Synrad%20LaserProcessingGuide_Plastics.pdf

== Instructions ==

To use the laser cutter, you must have been trained and have had your name added to the trained user list; these instructions are not a substitute for this training. See the training section to understand how you can become qualified to use the laser cutter.

Although not a requirement, it is recommended someone else trained is also present when using the laser cutter. Having two pairs of eyes helps avoid forgotten steps, allows for double checking, clarifications and discussions, and ensures a greater pool of experience is both present and being built up as the laser is used.

'''Power Up'''

Give the machine a quick visual check. Make sure that there is nothing left on the bed, the water reservoir of the chiller looks normal, and that the equipment has no obvious damage or signs of being out-of-action. If the bed looks like it has residue on it, give it a wipe with IPA and a cloth.

Turn on primary switch on the trunking marked 'Laser'. The air filter system to the right of the laser cutter should start as should the air pump and the chiller. It should power up, make a decent amount of noise, and the lights should indicate the filter is in good condition (i.e. no need for replacement).

Make sure the lid is closed. Turn on the laser using the key on the right hand side. The inspection lamp should come on, a satisfying hum start up, and the cutter go into doing its self-checks.

Before doing any job, the laser should be left to warm up for 4-5 mins. While the machine warms up, power on the adjacent PC and start the LaserCut application from the desktop. During this time the water temperature shown on the chiller should drop from ambient temperature to the usual setting of 18C.

'''LaserCut 5.3 tips'''
If you're stuck in "draw a box" mode, etc you can right click and hit "pick" to get your pointer back

'''Load your Design'''

The PC software has an import facility ('''file > import''') which seems to be happy taking AutoCAD 2004 DXF files and other formats. The workspace of the laser bed is represented as the workarea in the LaserCut software. If the import doesn't do what you want size-wise, you can select the whole image and then use the 'size' command from the drop down menu to set the dimension you want. Clicking on the three dots ... symbol will adjust the other axis in the same proportion (keeping the aspect ratio fixed). Selecting the 'centre on bed' option will locate your imported drawing on the centre of the machine's cutting bed.

'''Prep'''

Select all (mouse-drag around all, or ctrl-a) and Tools -> Unite Lines. You always want to do this. Without it, many things won't work (will take longer, you'll get gaps, it won't do inner-before-outer, etching areas won't work, etc).

Make sure all your design fits within the bed. Even in immediate (relative) mode, you still need to do this.

'''Assign Settings to Colours'''

Each part of your drawing that is assigned a different colour can have a different cut action assigned. Each colour will appear on the menu on the right hand side of the screen with numbers related to power and speed of the laser which will be used for the colour.

The main options are to Cut (line) or Engrave (raster fill). A marking on the material is a Cut. For each material and cutting depth required, a corresponding speed and power must be entered. The handbook provided with the machine gives suggested values for various materials but these should be considered as a starting point for a test. See the '''Power and Speed Settings''' section for our guidelines and experiences for these settings.

Parts are cut "inside out" within a colour, so if you have a hole cutout in a small piece you don't need to give this a separate colour.

'''Download to the Cutter'''

Your drawing will feature a blue dot which represents the starting point of the laser; this is by default on the top right corner (can be changed in the menu). In general, you will want to use "immediate" mode, which means this point represents wherever the laser is positioned when you start the job. You can also run the job in absolute mode by unchecking the box, making the job use absolute positioning on the workspace.

To download, select Download and Download Current; the download option will by default call the file on the laser cutter 'LASER'.

'''Set the Focus'''

Before each job, the focus needs to be checked and set by adjusting the height of the bed, and thus the work piece, from the lens. The critical dimension here is 41mm and several gauges made of perspex will be left around the machine. This gauge needs to be a fit between the top surface of the material you intend to cut and the white plastic 'flap' on the lens piece. The height of the table is adjusted using the UP and DOWN buttons. Failure to set the distance correctly will result in an out of focus laser and much bigger (but lower powered) cut line. Always ensure there is clearance between the material and laser head before the head moves.

'''Aligning and Testing the Job'''

The cutter's menu will show the most recent downloaded file highlighted. Pressing the 'test' button will make the head travel along the square maximum extends of the cuts. This shows you that you have the material in the right place, and you have enough of it! You can do this repeatedly, moving the work piece by hand or the laser head using the arrow keys (after hitting ESC), until you are confident you have things where you want them.

'''Cut the Job'''

When happy with the location of the material, close the lid and press 'start' to start the cutter. Watch the head and at least at first be prepared to press the 'stop' button immediately if you find you are burning massive holes in your work piece! This goes back to doing some tests on a sample of your material and making sure you are happy with the cut speeds and power you have selected. You should stay near the cutter at all times and be prepared to pause it or stop it in the event of fire.

<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE CUTTER UNATTENDED'''</span>

'''Finishing'''

The end of the job is signified by a beep. Waiting a few moments for the exhaust pump to clear any remaining smoke is a good idea, especially with wood, and will limit the build up of smells in the rest of the workshop. Remove your work piece, ensuring that all parts are cleared from the bed of the machine.

'''Power Down'''

The cutter is turned off using the key switch, then the air filtering system with the green rocker switch. Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe state for the next user.

'''Clean the bed of debris using the soft brush, then wipe down the bed using IPA and a cloth.'''

If you have been cutting particularly 'dirty' materials, most notable MDF and Ply which leave a sticky residue then you will need to use the course side of one of the oven pads and lots of 'elbow grease'. Residue on the bed can impact the next persons' job so please make the effort to clean up and leave the cutter as you would wish to find it.

Go away excited by what you can make and come back with lots more drawings!

== Power and Speed Settings ==

In due time we will try to build up a large sample stock of materials and record the values which work best. Here are the sample material tests we have so far:

<gallery>
File:Laser-schmoo-3mm-acrylic.JPG|3mm Acrylic
File:Laser-schmoo-10mm-acrylic.JPG|10mm Acrylic
File:Laser-schmoo-9mm-mdf.JPG|9mm MDF (note: do not cut MDF - see above!)
</gallery>

Settings to get you started:
*3mm Acrylic: Speed 12, Power 100, Corner power 100
*5mm Acrylic: Speed 6, Power 100, Corner power 100
*Acrylic shallow cut: Speed 30, power 50, corner power 50
*Etching acrylic: Speed 400, Power 50, Spacing 0.05

To make your own material test, a test grid can be downloaded here: [[Media:Test grid.zip]]

*3mm Delrin: Speed 10, Power 100, Corner power 100
*5mm Delrin: Speed 4, Power 100, Corner power 100
*6mm Delrin: speed 3, Power 100, Corner power 100

=== Test sheet ===

One member designed this test sheet: [[Media:Laser_cutter_test_sheet.pdf]]

The LaserCut software has too few colours for all the settings, so if you want to cut again, you need to assign settings by batches, e.g. by assigning all items to the colour black, turning off that colour ("Output" checkbox unchecked), and giving the squares one colour at a time with the right settings.

== Tips & Tricks ==

* If the laser cutter's user interface does not seem to respond/do what you want, hit "ESC" to return to 'normal mode'.
* The opaque white acrylic needs slightly stronger settings for surface cuts as they are not as visible as in the transparent acrylic (i.e., for similar effect you need a deeper cut). Otherwise seems to cut equivalently to transparent acrylics.
* If you want a tight fit of pieces or very accurate sizing, keep in mind that the laser beam has a width of just over 0.1 mm (maybe 0.11 or 0.12 mm). So all exterior cut lines should be offset by 0.05 mm; you can do this very easily in the LaserCutter Software with the "Offset" tool (units are in mm, so enter '0.05' and select 'Outer').
* The DXF file format stores values only (not values and units). The internal units in the LaserCutter are in mm. If you set your document's units to mm in the exporting CAD system it should work fine, but generally it is a good idea to have a piece of geometry of known length, e.g. a line 100mm long, or a box of known size around your design. This makes adjusting the scaling a lot easier.
* If you want to export a DXF from Inkscape (which is a great, free vector drawing package), then make sure you do "Object to path" from the Path menu for the whole object and then during the export stage, untick both options for type of export. Choose mm as your unit.
* There's now a page to help with Inkscape and our laser at [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Inkscape]]
* If the jog buttons (arrow keys moving the laser head around) are only moving the head in small single steps rather than moving it continuously, make sure that the jog step size is set to 0.0mm in the Jog Settings section of the menu.

=== Material Usage ===
You want to use as little material as possible to save money, we want you to use as little material as possible to reduce re-stocking burden and wastage.
There's a neat tool you can use for packing SVG files into small spaces, find it here: http://svgnest.com/

== Fixing up a job that went wrong ==

If you messed up a job and, for example, some cut lines weren't cut, you might try to run the job again after recolouring all of the lines except the ones that didn't cut. You can then deselect those lines for output in the Cut/Engrave window on the top right of the Lasercut Interface, and this will keep your positioning.

If your head has moved, you can try setting some lines to power 1, which should not cut anything, but allows you to see where the head is travelling.

== Fixing strange issues ==

''Jaws has a FAQ on the desktop of her PC, with more useful hints, tricks, and solutions.''

* Etching doesn't work
** Lines are not closed. LaserCut usually warns you about this. Ctrl-a to select all, then Tools->Unite Lines (0.001 should be fine).
** Two copies on top of each other. Copies on top of each other "cancel out" any etching. Delete one copy.
** Test with Menu->Laser->Simulate

* LaserCut will not download to the laser cutter
** Check laser cutter isn't in a paused state
** Restart LaserCut on the PC. (We've not had any usb issues nor needed to restart the laser since upgrading the PC summer 2014).

* Laser cuts things out 2+ times
** Check you don't have two copies loaded on top of each other
** Check it's not set to cut multiple times in LaserCut (this setting is right of the Cut/Engrave/Speed/Power settings)
** Check the laser front panel says "001" at the bottom. If not, press right arrow until the number is highlighted, then down to adjust back to 1, then press return.

* Laser will only cut at the top right of the bed
** Download again with Immediate Mode ticked
** On laser panel, press return (I think?) then right twice (should select the bottom left option), then press return (I think).

*You Hit Emergency stop
** E-M button needs twisting to re-activate
** If that fails - check the circuit breaker inside. From the back of the machine, you want to open the lower flap on the left side, which should be unlocked. Near to the back, there is a breaker board. Flip the flippy bit.

== Material Stock ==
For the stock we hold, please see the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Stock|Laser cutter stock]] page.

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the Laser Cutter is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Laser Cutter Users''')
* Clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth or Swarfega wipes
* Clean any debris off laser bed and surround using soft brush

Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)
* Clean the laser lens with IPA and cotton buds
* Oil the 3 runners with 3-in-one light oil
* Thoroughly clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth
* Check the water level in the cooling tank
* Clean and remove debris from the machine base and catchment drawer

Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)
* Check the water is clean in the cooling tank (i.e. no contamination/organic build up)
* Check filter unit for filter renewal
* Oil the 4 rise and fall lead screws with 3-in-one light oil
* Check mirrors and clean with a disposable sachet lens cleaner cloth (only if needed, mirror coatings are delicate)
* Work through mirror alignment procedure to check alignment of mirrors

== Maintenance Log ==

''For full log, see laser cutter wall sheet''

For specific instructions and owner hints and tips see [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Owner_Tips|Owner Hints and Tricks]].

'''Filter Changes'''
* Jaws: 10 Feb to 22 June 2016, slightly under 5 months, and falling
* Betsy: Freshest data currently in filter unit, gave up on 24th of June

'''Reactive Maintenance'''
* 15th Jan 2013, Simon Ford: Laser cutter not powering up, with switching on via key gives no activity whatsoever. No recollection of it cutting out during a job (Alexis), so assume it just stopped turning on at some point. Filter box and power sockets confirmed OK. Diagnosis: RCD in right back panel of Laser reset to off, no obvious reason why. Switching back on brought everything back to life OK.
* 22nd, Simon Ford; 29th, Nicholas - same again.

* Apr 2014, Mat Cook and Diana Probst: after previous changing of chiller water (Roger et al) the pump was complaining of lack of flow. Changed water and filtered, removed small blockage from rubber hose on laser tube.

* 16 Apr 2014, Toby and Diana: changed laser tube, refilled chiller. Laser cutter fully working.

* 25 Oct 2014, Mat and Diana mended lid spring brace. Cutter working fully.

'''Regular Maintenance'''
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)

2013
* January 7, Full, Chris @ HPCLaser'''
* January 14, Basic, Simon Ford
* January 21, Full, Simon Ford (running better than new :)'''
* ...various maintenance events happened...
* April 5th, Full, Simon Ford
* July 1st, Full, David Barham (realigned mirrors)
* July 15th, installed chiller

2014
* 16 Apr 2014, mirror alignment and optics checked after re-installation of tube. All fine. Toby and Diana.
* 19 May 2014, mirrors cleaned, earthing wire on lid tightened. Diana (and Mat's screwdriver)
* 21 May 2014, cleaned lens with Mat Cook. Diana
* 02 Jun 2014, removed and cleaned laser bed
* 14 Sep 2014, cleaned lens and mirrors, realigned. Diana and Brian Starkey

* 30 Jun 2014 Fitted microswitches in series with the magnetic "lid closed" detector.
* ??? 2014 "Jaws" Second laser cutter acquired
* ??? 2014 Fitted microswitch to Jaws

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* 3-in-one light oil
* Cotton Buds
* Lens cleaner sachets
* Soft paint/cleaning brush
* Thermometer for water tank
* Hand held CO2 extinguisher

= Further Information =

* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser Product Page]
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=5&chapter=2 HPCLaser Technical Info]
* [http://www.laserscript.co.uk/phpBB3/ Laserscript Forum]

LaserCut 5.3
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/35.html Homepage]
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/LaserCut5.3%20Manual%20V1.6.pdf Manual]

[[BitmapLaserEngraving]]

== Installation ==

<gallery>
File:Laser_-_van.JPG
File:Makespace-laser-install-02.JPG
File:Laser_-_building_2.JPG
File:Laser_-_building.JPG
</gallery>

== Purchase ==

Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£6865.00+vat = £8238.00)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser engraving and cutting machine, 600mm by 900mm 60W] (£5250.00+vat)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34 Laser Fume Filter] (£1250.00+vat)
* Delivery (£190+vat)
* Installation/Training (£175+vat)

== Repairs ==

We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:
* The laser tube (guess every 6-12 months)
* The filter (guess every 3-6 months)
* The optics (guess every 6-12 months)

Maintenance and Spares:
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3 60 watt C02 laser tube] (£275.00+vat)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=12 50 mm Focus Meniscus Lens] (£75.00+vat)
* Estimate for Call Out (£200.00)

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2020-01-27T14:58:02Z

Mmorin: fixed help link

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2020-01-27T14:57:18Z

Mmorin: added help page

Working with the wiki

2020-01-27T14:54:36Z

Mmorin: added link problems

We use MediaWiki. Below is a list of the most useful elements to work with our wiki. Please add or edit as appropriate, and see [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki] for the full documentation.

= Getting help =

When you edit a page, click on "Editing help" at the bottom right to go to [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Editing_pages MediaWiki].

= Creating pages =

To create a new page, first create a link to it from somewhere (it can be anywhere, but make it count), then save the page that points to it, click on the
link (where the tooltip reads "page does not exist"), and you'll be taken to an interface to create the page.

= Formatting =

== Headings ==

Headings are surrounded by equal signs: <nowiki> = top heading =, == sub-heading ==, === sub-sub-heading ===</nowiki>.

== Equipment categories ==

We use these "macros" for categories of equipment: <nowiki>{{RedTool}}, {{GreenTool}}, and {{OrangeTool}}</nowiki>. The wiki will replace that text with a canned box with details on the type of equipment

== Links ==

You can create internal links as <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki]]). Spaces are converted to underscores. You can add custom text with a pipe (|, or vertical bar), e.g. <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]).

You can create external links as <nowiki>[https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]</nowiki> (result: [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]), where the first space
separates the link from the display text, and the remaining spaces are part of the display text.

Notice two brackets for internal links and one bracket for external links. Notice also that external links have no pipes (|, or vertical bar).

If your link is not working, go to a browser such as Firefox, right-click on the link, and click "Inspect element". A pane will open showing you the source of the link and you can then debug why your link is not working as you expect.

== Lists ==

For an unordered list, use asterisks, e.g. <nowiki>* item 1</nowiki>. Double or triple the number of asterisks for sub-lists, e.g. <nowiki>** sub-item 1</nowiki>. Result:

* item 1
** sub-item 1

For ordered lists, use hash (#) instead of asterisk (*).

== Code ==

Prefix with two spaces:

some code

== Bold ==

'''some bold text'''

= Adding images or files =

== Basic syntax ==

You need to be logged in to upload files. On the toolbar at the left, under "tools", click "Upload file", grab its link, then include it with this syntax for a framed image: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. The result is the laser cutter to the right.

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]

== Resizing ==

To resize an image, normally you would use this syntax: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|100px|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. Our wiki is not currently configured to create thumbnails with different sizes and gives this error:

''Error creating thumbnail: Unable to run external programs, passthru() is disabled.''

For now, please use the original size, or resize on your machine before uploading.

== Documentation ==

See [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Images#Rendering_a_single_image Media Wiki Image help] for more options.

Working with the wiki

2020-01-27T14:44:17Z

Mmorin: capitalized headings

We use MediaWiki. Below is a list of the most useful elements to work with our wiki. Please add or edit as appropriate, and see [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki] for the full documentation.

= Getting help =

When you edit a page, click on "Editing help" at the bottom right to go to [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Editing_pages MediaWiki].

= Creating pages =

To create a new page, first create a link to it from somewhere (it can be anywhere, but make it count), then save the page that points to it, click on the
link (where the tooltip reads "page does not exist"), and you'll be taken to an interface to create the page.

= Formatting =

== Headings ==

Headings are surrounded by equal signs: <nowiki> = top heading =, == sub-heading ==, === sub-sub-heading ===</nowiki>.

== Equipment categories ==

We use these "macros" for categories of equipment: <nowiki>{{RedTool}}, {{GreenTool}}, and {{OrangeTool}}</nowiki>. The wiki will replace that text with a canned box with details on the type of equipment

== Links ==

You can create internal links as <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki]]). Spaces are converted to underscores. You can add custom text with a pipe (|, or vertical bar), e.g. <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]).

You can create external links as <nowiki>[https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]</nowiki> (result: [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]), where the first space
separates the link from the display text, and the remaining spaces are part of the display text.

Notice two brackets for internal links and one bracket for external links.

== Lists ==

For an unordered list, use asterisks, e.g. <nowiki>* item 1</nowiki>. Double or triple the number of asterisks for sub-lists, e.g. <nowiki>** sub-item 1</nowiki>. Result:

* item 1
** sub-item 1

For ordered lists, use hash (#) instead of asterisk (*).

== Code ==

Prefix with two spaces:

some code

== Bold ==

'''some bold text'''

= Adding images or files =

== Basic syntax ==

You need to be logged in to upload files. On the toolbar at the left, under "tools", click "Upload file", grab its link, then include it with this syntax for a framed image: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. The result is the laser cutter to the right.

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]

== Resizing ==

To resize an image, normally you would use this syntax: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|100px|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. Our wiki is not currently configured to create thumbnails with different sizes and gives this error:

''Error creating thumbnail: Unable to run external programs, passthru() is disabled.''

For now, please use the original size, or resize on your machine before uploading.

== Documentation ==

See [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Images#Rendering_a_single_image Media Wiki Image help] for more options.

Working with the wiki

2020-01-27T14:43:57Z

Mmorin: added inability to resize

We use MediaWiki. Below is a list of the most useful elements to work with our wiki. Please add or edit as appropriate, and see [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki] for the full documentation.

= Getting help =

When you edit a page, click on "Editing help" at the bottom right to go to [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Editing_pages MediaWiki].

= Creating pages =

To create a new page, first create a link to it from somewhere (it can be anywhere, but make it count), then save the page that points to it, click on the
link (where the tooltip reads "page does not exist"), and you'll be taken to an interface to create the page.

= Formatting =

== Headings ==

Headings are surrounded by equal signs: <nowiki> = top heading =, == sub-heading ==, === sub-sub-heading ===</nowiki>.

== Equipment categories ==

We use these "macros" for categories of equipment: <nowiki>{{RedTool}}, {{GreenTool}}, and {{OrangeTool}}</nowiki>. The wiki will replace that text with a canned box with details on the type of equipment

== Links ==

You can create internal links as <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki]]). Spaces are converted to underscores. You can add custom text with a pipe (|, or vertical bar), e.g. <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]).

You can create external links as <nowiki>[https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]</nowiki> (result: [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]), where the first space
separates the link from the display text, and the remaining spaces are part of the display text.

Notice two brackets for internal links and one bracket for external links.

== Lists ==

For an unordered list, use asterisks, e.g. <nowiki>* item 1</nowiki>. Double or triple the number of asterisks for sub-lists, e.g. <nowiki>** sub-item 1</nowiki>. Result:

* item 1
** sub-item 1

For ordered lists, use hash (#) instead of asterisk (*).

== Code ==

Prefix with two spaces:

some code

== Bold ==

'''some bold text'''

= Adding images or files =

== basic syntax ==

You need to be logged in to upload files. On the toolbar at the left, under "tools", click "Upload file", grab its link, then include it with this syntax for a framed image: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. The result is the laser cutter to the right.

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]

== resizing ==

To resize an image, normally you would use this syntax: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|100px|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. Our wiki is not currently configured to create thumbnails with different sizes and gives this error:

''Error creating thumbnail: Unable to run external programs, passthru() is disabled.''

For now, please use the original size, or resize on your machine before uploading.

== documentation ==

See [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Images#Rendering_a_single_image Media Wiki Image help] for more options.

Working with the wiki

2020-01-27T14:33:44Z

Mmorin: added login requirement for uploading files

We use MediaWiki. Below is a list of the most useful elements to work with our wiki. Please add or edit as appropriate, and see [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki] for the full documentation.

= Getting help =

When you edit a page, click on "Editing help" at the bottom right to go to [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Editing_pages MediaWiki].

= Creating pages =

To create a new page, first create a link to it from somewhere (it can be anywhere, but make it count), then save the page that points to it, click on the
link (where the tooltip reads "page does not exist"), and you'll be taken to an interface to create the page.

= Formatting =

== Headings ==

Headings are surrounded by equal signs: <nowiki> = top heading =, == sub-heading ==, === sub-sub-heading ===</nowiki>.

== Equipment categories ==

We use these "macros" for categories of equipment: <nowiki>{{RedTool}}, {{GreenTool}}, and {{OrangeTool}}</nowiki>. The wiki will replace that text with a canned box with details on the type of equipment

== Links ==

You can create internal links as <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki]]). Spaces are converted to underscores. You can add custom text with a pipe (|, or vertical bar), e.g. <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]).

You can create external links as <nowiki>[https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]</nowiki> (result: [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]), where the first space
separates the link from the display text, and the remaining spaces are part of the display text.

Notice two brackets for internal links and one bracket for external links.

== Lists ==

For an unordered list, use asterisks, e.g. <nowiki>* item 1</nowiki>. Double or triple the number of asterisks for sub-lists, e.g. <nowiki>** sub-item 1</nowiki>. Result:

* item 1
** sub-item 1

For ordered lists, use hash (#) instead of asterisk (*).

== Code ==

Prefix with two spaces:

some code

== Bold ==

'''some bold text'''

= Adding images or files =

You need to be logged in to upload files. On the toolbar at the left, under "tools", click "Upload file", grab its link, then include it with this syntax for a framed image: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. The result is the laser cutter to the right.

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]

See [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Images#Rendering_a_single_image Media Wiki Image help] for more options.

Talk:New Equipment Template

2020-01-22T20:59:09Z

Mmorin: Created page with "On 22 January 2020, Goska mentioned: I also thought that it may be useful to add information about consumables and materials provided, some of which are provided by Makespace..."

On 22 January 2020, Goska mentioned:

I also thought that it may be useful to add information about consumables and materials provided, some of which are provided by Makespace for free, while others should be paid for. Sometimes it can lead to confusion, for example, all jewellery consumables, including sanding papers and saw blades have to be paid for. However, we have some free "scrap" materials for practice. Also, users should be informed where to find the price list, and how to pay, if the items are not listed on iZettle, which is the case for fine metals bench and the glassworking tools. I haven't added this to the template yet.

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2020-01-22T20:56:51Z

Mmorin: added link to new equipment template

Working with the wiki

2020-01-18T16:40:54Z

Mmorin:

We use MediaWiki. Below is a list of the most useful elements to work with our wiki. Please add or edit as appropriate, and see [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki] for the full documentation.

= Getting help =

When you edit a page, click on "Editing help" at the bottom right to go to [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Editing_pages MediaWiki].

= Creating pages =

To create a new page, first create a link to it from somewhere (it can be anywhere, but make it count), then save the page that points to it, click on the
link (where the tooltip reads "page does not exist"), and you'll be taken to an interface to create the page.

= Formatting =

== Headings ==

Headings are surrounded by equal signs: <nowiki> = top heading =, == sub-heading ==, === sub-sub-heading ===</nowiki>.

== Equipment categories ==

We use these "macros" for categories of equipment: <nowiki>{{RedTool}}, {{GreenTool}}, and {{OrangeTool}}</nowiki>. The wiki will replace that text with a canned box with details on the type of equipment

== Links ==

You can create internal links as <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki]]). Spaces are converted to underscores. You can add custom text with a pipe (|, or vertical bar), e.g. <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]).

You can create external links as <nowiki>[https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]</nowiki> (result: [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]), where the first space
separates the link from the display text, and the remaining spaces are part of the display text.

Notice two brackets for internal links and one bracket for external links.

== Lists ==

For an unordered list, use asterisks, e.g. <nowiki>* item 1</nowiki>. Double or triple the number of asterisks for sub-lists, e.g. <nowiki>** sub-item 1</nowiki>. Result:

* item 1
** sub-item 1

For ordered lists, use hash (#) instead of asterisk (*).

== Code ==

Prefix with two spaces:

some code

== Bold ==

'''some bold text'''

= Adding images or files =

On the toolbar at the left, click "Upload file", grab its link, then include it with this syntax for a framed image: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. Result:

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]

See [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Images#Rendering_a_single_image Media Wiki Image help] for more options.

Working with the wiki

2020-01-18T16:28:52Z

Mmorin: Created page with "We use MediaWiki. Below is a list of the most useful elements to work with our wiki. Please add or edit as appropriate, and see [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki] for the full ..."

We use MediaWiki. Below is a list of the most useful elements to work with our wiki. Please add or edit as appropriate, and see [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki] for the full documentation.

= Creating pages =

To create a new page, first create a link to it from somewhere (it can be anywhere, but make it count), then save the page that points to it, click on the
link (where the tooltip reads "page does not exist"), and you'll be taken to an interface to create the page.

= Formatting =

== Headings ==

Headings are surrounded by equal signs: <nowiki> = top heading =, == sub-heading ==, === sub-sub-heading ===</nowiki>.

== Equipment categories ==

We use these "macros" for categories of equipment: <nowiki>{{RedTool}}, {{GreenTool}}, and {{OrangeTool}}</nowiki>. The wiki will replace that text with a canned box with details on the type of equipment

== Links ==

You can create internal links as <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki]]). Spaces are converted to underscores. You can add custom text with a pipe (|, or vertical bar), e.g. <nowiki>[[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]</nowiki> (result: [[Working with the wiki|wiki help]]).

You can create external links as <nowiki>[https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]</nowiki> (result: [https://mediawiki.org MediaWiki]), where the first space
separates the link from the display text, and the remaining spaces are part of the display text.

Notice two brackets for internal links and one bracket for external links.

== Lists ==

For an unordered list, use asterisks, e.g. <nowiki>* item 1</nowiki>. Double or triple the number of asterisks for sub-lists, e.g. <nowiki>** sub-item 1</nowiki>. Result:

* item 1
** sub-item 1

For ordered lists, use hash (#) instead of asterisk (*).

== Code ==

Prefix with two spaces:

some code

== Bold ==

'''some bold text'''

= Adding images or files =

On the toolbar at the left, click "Upload file", grab its link, then include it with this syntax for a framed image: <nowiki> [[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]</nowiki>. Result:

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]

See [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Images#Rendering_a_single_image Media Wiki Image help] for more options.

Makespace

2020-01-18T15:57:44Z

Mmorin:

[[File:WIP+Makespace-dan.png|thumb|frameless|400px|Makespace]]
[http://makespace.org Makespace Homepage] / Wiki

== What is in Makespace? ==

* '''[[Equipment|Our Equipment]]'''
* [[Infrastructure]]
* [[Things and stuff]] --- locator for smaller items

== How does Makespace work? ==

The space is great for individuals wanting to experiment, startups or companies wanting access to prototyping equipment, companies in the business who can come and do training and provide services beyond Makespace, and groups that want space to meet. Anyone who could benefit from a shared space focused on making things.

At its core is a membership-based structure; the price of membership is £40/month inc VAT for full membership for 24/7 RFID access, or £33/month inc VAT for full student membership (no access outside of Cambridge university terms).

It is a community run space; see:

* [http://makespace.org Makespace Main Website]
* [[Induction|Membership and inductions]]
* [[Useful makespace info for Members]]
* [[Policies]] - ie how stuff works
* [[Latest member news]] - a great place to start if you want to find out what's been happening lately or what's coming up
* Non-exhaustive [[People|list of people]] currently or previously involved.

== Getting involved ==

Members are encouraged, and non-members are welcome, to join our [http://groups.google.com/group/cammakespace mailing list]. You can read and post via the web interface or get messages delivered to your inbox.

If you'd like to find out about upcoming real-world meetings, please join our [http://www.meetup.com/makespace Meetup] group.

Members: please contribute to this wiki! If you spot something incomplete or out of date, just hit 'edit' and change it.

We also have an IRC channel (not much used of late): join #makespace on Freenode in your IRC client or via your browser at http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=makespace

Various communication channels are listed [[Communications|here]].

Consider becoming an Owner or Trainer.

== Other information ==

* [[Cakespace]]

* [[How to do stuff for Makespace]]

* [[Makespace member guidelines]]

* Some information about other groups around the world that may be of interest can be found on the [[Links|Links page]].

* Some projects may need external [[Service Suppliers]] for things we can't do in-house.

* [[Working with the wiki]]

== Regular groups and social meetings ==

Makespace and its members host regular meetings, both to make things, learning things, and be sociable. For a list of these see [https://www.meetup.com/makespace/|our meetup group].

If you'd like to run an event, check out [[Events policy|how to run an event in Makespace]].

== Formal Meetings ==
There are write-ups of planning and member meetings at [[Makespace/Meetings | Meetings]].

== External meetings, conferences etc ==

We list some [[external events]] that may be of interest to Makespace members.

== Sponsorship and Donations! ==
We're grateful to the founding sponsors who helped set Makespace up. Most current running costs are met from membership payments but we gratefully receive any donations, however small, that can help with developing, running and improving Makespace for everyone. Contact management (at) makespace (dot) org. Thanks!

Equipment

2020-01-18T15:01:06Z

Mmorin: /* Using our Equipment */

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]

The equipment you can find in Makespace.

== Using our Equipment ==

There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.

Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Online payment system]].

[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.

Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.

'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].

If you want to create a new page for equipment, follow [[New_Equipment_Template|the new equipment template]].

== The Workshop ==

For more details please see [[SecureWorkshop|the Secure Workshop]]

In the main area:

* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]
* [[Equipment/Router|Hand-held Plunge Router]]
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Wood Lathe]]
* [[Equipment/AxminsterScrollSaw|Scroll Saw]]
* [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Tool Box]
* [[Equipment/Spindle Sander|Triton Spindle Sander]]
* [[Equipment/Thicknesser|Metabo Thicknesser]]
* [[Equipment/Hand Planes|Hand Planes]]

In the metal work area:

* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]]
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]] (Currently no training available)

== The Space ==

* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]
* [[nfrastructure/Computing|Chromebooks]]
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Hobby_Bender|Hobby Bender acrylic bending device]]

== Craft area ==
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* large table for cutting or working at
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]
* PC with basic image-editing software (Inkscape, GIMP), scanner and link to Vinyl cutter
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]
* [[Pfaff Industrial Sewing Machine]]
* [[Badge Maker]]

== Classroom ==
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]
== Corridor Cupboards ==
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]

== Related ==
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

Equipment/CNC Model Mill

2019-11-28T13:34:16Z

Mmorin: fixed Cut2D tutorial links

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / CNC Model Mill

A model mill for 3D subtractive prototyping, mould making, 3D scanning and PCB milling.

[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|thumb|460px|right|Our Roland MDX-40A Model Mill]]

= Summary =

The MDX-40A is a full-featured CNC (computer numerical control) mill capable of cutting jeweler's wax, resins, chemical wood, acrylic and wood. It is ideal for quickly and easily creating high-quality prototypes, parts, models, and moulds for resin casting.

http://www.rolanddga.com/products/milling/mdx40/

* Capacity: 305 x 305 x 105mm
* Rate (X,Y): 50mm/sec
* Rate (Z): 30mm/sec
* Spindle Speed: 4500 to 15000rpm
* Resolution: 0.01mm
* Materials: Plastics (ABS, Delrin/Acetal, Nylon, Acrylic), tooling board, wood, and modeling wax, PCBs
* Includes scanning head

Here are some examples we've made on the Model Mill (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:Model_Mill_Job_1.jpg
File:ModelMill_Gallery_1.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130407.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130407_2.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130406_1.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130323_1.jpg
File:KnGI5X2.jpg
</gallery>

Michal Zalewski's [http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/ Guerrilla guide to CNC machining, mold making, and resin casting] has many tips on using a similar CNC mill and ideas for projects, with a particular focus on resin casting.

= Using the Mill=

== Owners ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the equipment, organising maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of this item are:

* Paul Osborn
* Robin Sterling

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the Model Mill, please use the mailing list thread:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/F0MPTtkjX2E/discussion Log : MDX40 Model Mill]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE MODEL MILL IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the model mill and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Model Mill Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill/Training|Model Mill Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

The Model Mill is unlikely to hurt you, but you can easily hurt it without training so it must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the CNC Router are:
* '''ONLY USE THE MILL IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE MILL RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''SHARP OBJECTS''' - The cutters used by the machine can be very sharp. Care should be taken when handling the cutters or working near the cutters such as when cleaning after use.

'''DUST''' - Ensure the machine is cleaned thoroughly after use.

'''Never use a pneumatic blower'''
This machine is not compatible with a pneumatic blower. Cutting waste may get inside the machine and cause fire or electrical shock.

== Instructions ==

[http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MDX-40A_USE_EN_R1.pdf Product Manual]

===Coordinate Systems===

The main window in VPanel displays the present location of the tool as numerical values. Using these lets you perform manual feed accurately, which can be very convenient in tasks such as aligning the workpiece.

The numerical values that indicate the location of the tool are called "coordinates," and the starting point for the coordinates is called the "origin." The following figure shows a location that is shifted from the origin by 50 millimetres along the X-axis, 30 millimetres along the Y-axis, and 20 millimetres along the Z-axis. This X-axis distance is called the "X-axis coordinate" (or sometimes just the "X coordinate"), and the Y- and Z-axis distances are similarly called the "Y-axis coordinate" and the "Z-axis coordinate."

The distances from the origin for the respective axes to the tool are therefore the corresponding coordinate values.

[[Image:Mill_Coords.PNG]]

It is possible to select the coordinate system that is used to display the tool location in VPanel. ''The selection made here only determines the method used to display coordinates''.

With the actual origin point, you need to perform the setting individually for the coordinate system that is used with the cutting data. It is a good idea to leave the selection at "User Coordinate System" as this is the system used by most programs.

* '''User Coordinate System''': This is a coordinate system in which the location of the origin point can be freely changed.
* '''Machine Coordinate System''': This is a machine-specific coordinate system in which the location of the origin point is fixed and cannot be changed.

===Pausing/Resuming/Quitting of Cutting===
This operation pauses cutting. You perform it using the built-in panel. This also makes it possible to resume cutting at the paused position after an operation such as moving the tool to check the status of the workpiece.

'''Press the VIEW button during cutting.'''
Rotation of the spindle stops, and the tool moves to the VIEW position. While movement of the tool and table is in progress, the VIEW lamp flashes, and after the movement is completed, the lamp lights up.

It is possible to open the front cover while the machine is paused. Before opening the front cover, make sure that the cutting operation stopped completely and that the VIEW lamp is lit.

'''Press and hold the VIEW button.'''
The tool returns to the position where operation was paused, and cutting resumes. After the tool starts moving, the VIEW lamp flashes until cutting is resumed. When cutting is resumed, the VIEW lamp goes dark.

If you open the front cover while the operation is paused, close the front cover, then perform the operation to resume.

===Tool Selection===

Select a tool matched to the purpose. It's a good idea to use the tools selectively, according to the work process (such as rough cutting or finish cutting) and the design.

Cutters is an all-inclusive term used to describe the rotating cutting tools used. Cutters can be manufactured from high speed steel or carbide and are available in a variety of configurations for specific applications.

* '''End mill'''
** Straight end mill: The end cutting edge is flat-shaped. It is suitable for fashioning a flat surface or steps.
** Ball end mill: The end cutting edge is ball-shaped. It is suitable for fashioning a curved surface or waveform.
* '''Engraving cutter'''
** Character cutter: This tool is suitable for engraving in general with broad versatility. It is appropriate for character engraving on the plate.
** Parallel cutter: This cutter is suitable for engraving wide surfaces. This cutter enables engraving large characters and surface leveling (to flatten the surface of the material) of the table where the material is placed. Because both sides have a cutting blade, it is not possible to make a deep cut in the Z-axis direction.

===Recovery of Operation from Emergency Stop or Emergency Shutdown===
If an emergency stop or an emergency shutdown occurs during cutting, remove the tool and the
workpiece from the machine. When the operation resumes, initialization is performed on the machine.

At this time, the tool and the workpiece may collide depending on the position in which the tool and workpiece stopped, which can cause damage to the machine while restarting.

===Overrides===
'''Using Overrides'''
An override is a feature for adjusting the feed rate or spindle speed while cutting is in progress. This is useful when you want to change the feed rate or speed as you monitor the status of cutting. An override value is specified as a percentage. For example, when the command in the cutting data sent from the computer is for a speed of 5,000 rpm, specifying an override of 150% produces an actual speed of 7,500 rpm.

'''Cutting Speed Override'''
This works on the tool movement speed of when the workpiece is being cut. The speed specified by the command in the cutting data is taken to be 100%.

'''Spindle Speed Override'''
This works on the rotation speed of the spindle. The speed specified by the command in the cutting data is taken to be 100%. This is also effective when rotating the spindle during manual operations.

===Setting the Z Origin Using the Z0 Sensor===
''A tool that has an extremely narrow tip may break when it touches the tool sensor depending on which tool is to be used.''

1. Set the workpiece on the table, and place the Z0 sensor at the place where you want to set the Z origin on the workpiece. Face the surface of the Z0 sensor with no screw hole facing upward.

[[image:Mill_z0.PNG]]

2. Use the VPanel feed button and move the tool to the position above the sensor.

3. Close the front cover.

4. Select "Set "Z Origin using sensor" and click Detect. The tool slowly descend until it contacts the sensor. When the tool rises and stops, the setting operation is complete.

Note: It is important the tool is electrically conductive from tip to shaft, and the sensor is clean. Failure to check will cause damage to the tool and sensor.

5. Remove the sensor from the workpiece to a location where it will not interfere with future cutting operations.

==Software==

===[[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill/VPanel|VPanel]]===
[[Image:V_Panel_e.jpg]]

VPanel is a program to operate the modelling machine on the computer screen. It has functions to output cutting data, perform maintenance, and make various corrections. In addition, it displays error messages of the modelling machine.

===ClickMill===
[[Image:ClickMILL_e.jpg]]

ClickMILL is a program that lets you perform simple milling operations without a model (3D shape data). It allows you to perform drilling, chamfering and surface levelling and to cut flat panels to size in rectangular or circular shapes.

===SRP Player===
[[Image:Srp p.jpg]]

SRP Player imports a model (3D data in IGES, DXF [3D], and STL) and cuts a workpiece to transform it into the actual shape. It calculates the path of the blade that performs the cutting, and operates a cutting machine accordingly. The path of the blade is called the "tool path".

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnOkGfqXGjY Sample Part Cutting 1 (video)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEVCNFpSkPo Sample Part Cutting 2 (video)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtLUlEqu5Dk Surfacing and Drilling (Video)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRGFwBT3dm8 Basic Introduction to SRP Player (Video)]

Note: We do not have the Rotary axis or the tool changer show in some of these videos.

===Cut2D===
[[Image:Cut2d.jpg|180px]]

[http://www.vectric.com/products/cut2d.html Manufacture's site for Cut2D]

Cut2D is easy to use. The software automatically compensates for the cutter diameter and geometry when calculating toolpaths, so you simply select the shapes to machine and Cut2D takes care of the rest.

Cut2D opens CAD drawings and vector designs from most drawing packages and includes filters for the following industry standard file formats: DXF, DWG, EPS, AI & PDF files

Very simple projects can also be drawn directly in Cut2D.

Multiple designs can be imported and combined.

Cut2D allows the you to preview the calculated tool paths in a 3D window to see exactly what the machined part will look like.

[https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/cut2d-desktop?playlist=TutorialCategories&category=all Cut2D Tutorials] These tutorials are very good and are your best resource for learning how to use this software.

===CopperCAM===
[[Image:CopperCAM.jpg|180px]]

[http://www.celeritous.com/estore/CopperCAM Manufacture's site for CopperCAM]

An essential part of producing milled printed circuit boards is the ability to convert the Gerber photoplot files produced by most PCB layout tools to a format readable by CNC mill software to either isolate traces and pads or to "rub out" all copper on a board except traces and pads. You also need a tool to convert the common Excellon drill files to CNC language to drill the through holes and vias in the circuit board.

CopperCAM is a program for engraving and isolation routing. It only provides the Gerber and drill file conversion and does not provide any machine control. The exported files should be loaded and run via the vPanel software for download to the mill.

== Tips & Tricks ==
===Conventional milling versus climb milling===

A milling cutter can cut in two directions, sometimes known as conventional or up and climb or down.

[[File:Climb_Conv1.JPG]]

'''Conventional milling (left):''' The chip thickness starts at zero thickness, and increases up to the maximum. The cut is so light at the beginning that the tool does not cut, but slides across the surface of the material, until sufficient pressure is built up and the tooth suddenly bites and begins to cut. In metals this deforms the material (at point A on the diagram, left), work hardening it, dulling the tool and leaves a poor finish on the material.

'''Climb milling (right):''' Each tooth engages the material at a definite point, and the width of the cut starts at the maximum and decreases to zero. The chips are disposed behind the cutter, leading to easier swarf removal. The tooth does not rub on the material, and so tool life may be longer. However, climb milling can apply larger loads to the machine, and so is not recommended for older milling machines, or machines which are not in good condition.

While climb cutting is the most prevalent method in metalworking and conventional cutting is the dominant method in woodworking, plastics routing is somewhere in between the two. There are usually significant differences between the finish on a climb cut part and a conventional cut part, and the degree of difference varies by plastic and cutter geometry. The only rule of thumb that can be offered is that most soft plastics (HDPE, UHMW, polypropylene, etc.) respond best to conventional cutting, while some harder materials (acrylic, polycarbonate, nylon) occasionally respond better to climb cutting.

The other factors when considering climb or conventional cutting are the aggressiveness of the cutter and part hold down. Climb cutting is a much more aggressive means of cutting and can chatter or move small parts that are not fixtured well. In most cases, soft chips that are difficult to extract from the cut are also more likely to weld to the climb-cut side rather than the conventional cut side. The best method of approach for most new materials is to run sample parts with both methods of cutting at the same feeds and speeds and make the determination from there.

===Milling Wood===

When milling wood, always set the path to raster and position your piece so that the tool is passing with the grain. If you use other settings then swarf builds up and can easily jam the tool. If you are cutting large areas of wood then you will need to be alert to the machine jamming due to build up of swarf, so don't go far. The machine does not work terribly well as a thicknesser, so consider using the bandsaw (although it doesn't like lime very much) or the CNC router. Clean the machine once you can see it getting really dusty, not at the end of the job, or it will take hours! Manually remove big chippings or Henry will choke on them.

=== Making PCBs ===

The Model Mill should not be used to machine metal. It isn't strong enough, and the HSS cutter provided by Makespace will be damaged by metal and fibreglass (e.g. FR4 PCBs) very quickly.
However, if you are considered by the Owners to be an experienced and careful Mill User, then it is possible to make basic PCBs providing you use your own mill bed and cutters. For more information see the helpful guide here: [[PCB_milling]]

=== Making your own Base Plate ===

If you want to use screws to secure workpieces, or mounting holes etc you should make your own base to replace the public base installed in the mill. You can make a base plate easily using the large CNC Router. If you do not have access to that equipment, ask around for help, its a quick job.
The base can be made from thick MDF or plywood. An example design file in SVG format is here: [[Media:model_mill_base.svg.zip]]

=Stock Tools=

Rough notes - siw

Cutter * Shaft * cutter Length * total length * type * material

* 3*3*3*75*ball*carbid Europa Tool Co.Ltd.
* 3*6*10*35*square*hss MR Tool
* 5*6*15*45*square*hss MR Tool
* 2*6*5*29*square*hss MR Tool
* 1*6*3*25*square*hss MR Tool
* 6*6*30*75*ball*carbid europa tool co ltd
* 6*6*20*45*square*hss MR Tool
* 4*6*12.5*40*square*hss MR Tool

* engraving tip 3.3*10mm sholder shaft 6mm total tool length 75, tip 0.2, 30deg carbid
* engraving tip 6*10mm sholder shat 6mm total tool length 45, tip 0.2, 30deg HSS

* engraving tip 1/4" 0.1 30deg 32 total

drills
* 1/4" 0.8mm * 8mm 38mm total
* 1/4" 0.9mm * 8mm 38mm total

Collets

* 1/8"
* 1/4"
* 6mm * 2
* 4mm
* 3mm
* 5mm

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the Model Mill is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Model Mill Users''')
* Clean the mill with a 1" paint brush, remove as much dust from the spindle area as possible before vacuuming.
* Hover all the inside of the mill, and under it. '''Do not blow the dust, it goes everywhere!'''
* Clean any debris off bed and surround using soft brush

The machine should look like this after use!

<gallery>
File:WP_20130417_005.jpg
File:WP_20130417_004.jpg
File:WP_20130417_002.jpg
</gallery>

Basic Maintenance (done by Model Mill Maintainers)
* The spindle unit and the belt are parts that wear out. The replacement cycle varies according to usage conditions, but as a general guide, you should replace them after every 2,000 hours of use. You can use VPanel to view the total working time of the spindle.

== Maintenance Log ==

Installed on 21st March 2013.

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

= Further Information =

== Installation ==

== Purchase ==
* MP-ROTO-MDX40AE (mill - £4,695)
* RL-ROTO-TS30SCAN (scanner head - £295)
* Selection of tooling (???)
* Sample selection of materials (???)

== Repairs ==

Expected on-going maintenance costs are expected to be very low if maintained correctly. Two areas that will need watching for repair are:

* Spindle drive belt expected life 1000's of Hours (Supplier holds in stock) ~£10
* Spindle assembly (bearings fail) 10000 Hours MTBF (Supplier holds in stock) £195. It is suggest that when this starts to fail we buy a second spindle assembly and then repair the first, the bearings can be had for <£20.

== Material & Tooling Suppliers ==

===Material===
Links below are only suggested sources, do shop around.

* Yellow Foam - Usually found lying around in the secure workshop
* Acrylic - Stock for sale by the laser cutter
* Model Board /Polyeurethane Foam (PU580 recommended for strength, but easy to work. PU240 is soft enough to mark with a fingernail).[http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/Category/Patterns-Moulds-and-Tooling/Tooling-Modelling-Board.aspx Easy Composites]
* Modelling Foam - Can be marked with a finger nail, but resists a thumbprint [http://www.techsoft.co.uk/Products/MillingRoutingMaterials/ModellingFoam Techsoft] (not much stronger than the yellow foam)
*Wood - https://www.toolsandtimber.co.uk/ the lime blocks work well

===Tools===
* Huge range of tools, look for Milling Cutters, General Purpose - [http://www.cutwel.co.uk/home Cutwel]
* Basic HSS and Carbide tools - [http://www.mr-tools.co.uk/catalogue.php Mr Tool]
* Carbide Engraving Tools - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130826028002
* PCB Router CNC NC Carbide RASP DIAMOND - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360652609242

== Related Machines ==
Here are other machines available in this class:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!| Machine
!|URL
!|Price (UKP)
!|Size - X
!|Size - Y
!|Size - Z
!|Notes
|-
|iModela
|[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/imodela-milling-machine-p-1011.html link]
|500
|80
|55
|26
|
|-
|Heiz S400
|[http://www.prototools.co.uk/shop/customer/product.php?productid=18501&cat=0 link]
|1595
|400
|300
|110
|
|-
|Modela Pro MDX-540
|[http://www.rolanddg.co.uk/products/rapid-prototyping/mdx-540/ link]
|13995
|500
|400
|155
|Plastic resin and light metal, 400 to 12,000 rpm,
|-
|Modela MDX-20
|[http://www.rolanddg.co.uk/products/rapid-prototyping/mdx-20_15/ link]
|2799
|200
|150
|60
|Wood, Plaster, Resin (modeling wax, styrenform), Chemical wood, Aluminum (A5052 according to JIS),Brass, 6500 rpm, includes scanning head
|-
|}

Equipment/CNC Router/Hand Controller

2019-02-24T17:05:11Z

Mmorin: /* Cheat sheet */

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]] / Hand Controller

We have a [http://www.ddcnc.com/content/?107.html new controller] as of February 22nd, 2019. Thank you to Michael Dales and Adrian van den Heever who installed it.

Please read the [https://www.nvcnc.net/pdf/NVCNC_DM500.pdf User's manual (PDF)] for all the information. Most settings are similar to the old router ([http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf User's manual]).

== Emergency ==

The most important instruction is how to stop a job in an emergency: touch the yellow button with "PAUSE" at the bottom.

== Main operational changes ==

- *Feed rates come from G-code by default* - check your software tools to see what they use. You can adjust it up and down from this on the pendant (up to a safety limit of 3000 mm/min).
- There is no madatory home on power on, but you should do this when you first power on the machine.
- No changes are required in terms of g-code supported - proceed as you did for the previous pendant (modulo the feeds thing above).
- There's no internal storage on the pedant, designs run from the USB stick.

In initial usage one may get confused ramping up the feed rate whilst it was doing non-straight designs, so, until we shake out all the "features" please be cautious, and let the owners know if you have any issues.

=== What if the router refuses to run? ===

If you have done everything right and the router still won't start when you press "Run", you may have a soft-X edge issue. One user had homed the head to the point at the most left and bottom, set X-Y zero, but the router could not start from there. After turning on and off again and doing the same, in the second run the point at the most left and bottom was not the zero set in the first run. So the machine may have some variance in that lower left point.

Move the head up and right by around 0.3mm, set X-Y to 0 again, and try again.

=== Setting Z-0 ===

* Put probe under bit
* Press advanced button
* Scroll down to Probe
* Press okay and wait

It takes it a moment or two to get started, but otherwise seems fine.

== Cheat sheet ==

The manual is reasonably penetrable - skip to page 12 and start from there for how to use it.

Feed rates now need to be set in your software tool! Spindle speed is still controlled manually.

When the machine is in an error mode, once you’re happy things are okay, press RESET to go back to a usable state.

The pendant has three main screens, which you switch between using the MENU button.
* The main operation screen
* The file selection screen
* The machine configuration screen (password locked, only owners can change)

When on the operation screen, what the key presses do depends on the mode it is in, which is selectable by pressing TAB. If they keys don’t do what you expect then this is probably why.

When the machine starts it starts in the error state, so press RESET one you’re happy the machine is okay.

The CNC Router should be homed before use (see 5.2.5.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Press HOME
* Press OK
* Wait whilst the machine finds the origin

Before working on your piece you need to set the X and Y origin (see 5.3.2 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Move the gantry to the correct X/Y position using the arrows (see 5.2.3 in the manual)
* Press the XY->0 button

Every time you change a bit you need to set the Z origin (see 5.4.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Secure the bit in the spindle
* Put the Z-probe puck under the bit
* Press ADVANCED to bring up the advanced menu
* Select PROBE from the menu
* The gantry will move down to touch the puck

You will need to select a g-code file to run (see 5.5.1 in the manual):
* Insert USB stick with file on - DO NOT REMOVE UNTIL JOB IS FINISHED
* Press MENU to go to the file selection screen
* Navigate to file you want
* Press OK
* This will now take you back to the main screen. At the top of screen you should see the name of the file you picked.

To run the selected file from the main screen (see 5.2.4 in the manual):
* Ensure the spindle is running
* Press RUN
* It takes a little longer to get started than the old pendant, be patient

The feed rate can be adjusted whilst the program is running (see 5.5.3.4 in the manual), both slower and faster than rate specified in the file (up to a maximum of 3000 mm/min). To change the feed rate whilst your g-code is running:
* Press TAB until FRO (Feed Rate Override) in the top right is highlighted
* Use the +% and -% buttons to change
* Note the manual recommends general you set the feed rate high and go slower with the FRO, rather than using FRO to run at more than 100%.

To pause a running job press PAUSE. To abort the current job press RESET.

Equipment/CNC Router/Hand Controller

2019-02-24T17:04:26Z

Mmorin: /* Cheat sheet */

Equipment/CNC Router/Hand Controller

2019-02-24T17:00:58Z

Mmorin: /* Cheat sheet */

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]] / Hand Controller

We have a [http://www.ddcnc.com/content/?107.html new controller] as of February 22nd, 2019. Thank you to Michael Dales and Adrian van den Heever who installed it.

Please read the [https://www.nvcnc.net/pdf/NVCNC_DM500.pdf User's manual (PDF)] for all the information. Most settings are similar to the old router ([http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf User's manual]).

== Emergency ==

The most important instruction is how to stop a job in an emergency: touch the yellow button with "PAUSE" at the bottom.

== Main operational changes ==

- *Feed rates come from G-code by default* - check your software tools to see what they use. You can adjust it up and down from this on the pendant (up to a safety limit of 3000 mm/min).
- There is no madatory home on power on, but you should do this when you first power on the machine.
- No changes are required in terms of g-code supported - proceed as you did for the previous pendant (modulo the feeds thing above).
- There's no internal storage on the pedant, designs run from the USB stick.

In initial usage one may get confused ramping up the feed rate whilst it was doing non-straight designs, so, until we shake out all the "features" please be cautious, and let the owners know if you have any issues.

=== What if the router refuses to run? ===

If you have done everything right and the router still won't start when you press "Run", you may have a soft-X edge issue. One user had homed the head to the point at the most left and bottom, set X-Y zero, but the router could not start from there. After turning on and off again and doing the same, in the second run the point at the most left and bottom was not the zero set in the first run. So the machine may have some variance in that lower left point.

Move the head up and right by around 0.3mm, set X-Y to 0 again, and try again.

=== Setting Z-0 ===

* Put probe under bit
* Press advanced button
* Scroll down to Probe
* Press okay and wait

It takes it a moment or two to get started, but otherwise seems fine.

== Cheat sheet ==

The manual is reasonably penetrable - skip to page 12 and start from there for how to use it.

Feed rates now need to be set in your software tool! Spindle speed is still controlled manually.

When the machine is in an error mode, once you’re happy things are okay, press RESET to go back to a usable state.

The pendant has three main screens, which you switch between using the MENU button.

1. The main operation screen
2. The file selection screen
3. The machine configuration screen (password locked, only owners can change)

* When on the operation screen, what the key presses do depends on the mode it is in, which is selectable by pressing TAB. If they keys don’t do what you expect then this is probably why.

* When the machine starts it starts in the error state, so press RESET one you’re happy the machine is okay.

* The CNC Router should be homed before use (see 5.2.5.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Press HOME
* Press OK
* Wait whilst the machine finds the origin

* Before working on your piece you need to set the X and Y origin (see 5.3.2 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Move the gantry to the correct X/Y position using the arrows (see 5.2.3 in the manual)
* Press the XY->0 button

* Every time you change a bit you need to set the Z origin (see 5.4.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Secure the bit in the spindle
* Put the Z-probe puck under the bit
* Press ADVANCED to bring up the advanced menu
* Select PROBE from the menu
* The gantry will move down to touch the puck

* You will need to select a g-code file to run (see 5.5.1 in the manual):
* Insert USB stick with file on - DO NOT REMOVE UNTIL JOB IS FINISHED
* Press MENU to go to the file selection screen
* Navigate to file you want
* Press OK
* This will now take you back to the main screen. At the top of screen you should see the name of the file you picked.

* To run the selected file from the main screen (see 5.2.4 in the manual):
* Ensure the spindle is running
* Press RUN
* It takes a little longer to get started than the old pendant, be patient

* The feed rate can be adjusted whilst the program is running (see 5.5.3.4 in the manual), both slower and faster than rate specified in the file (up to a maximum of 3000 mm/min). To change the feed rate whilst your g-code is running:
* Press TAB until FRO (Feed Rate Override) in the top right is highlighted
* Use the +% and -% buttons to change
* Note the manual recommends general you set the feed rate high and go slower with the FRO, rather than using FRO to run at more than 100%.

* To pause a running job press PAUSE. To abort the current job press RESET.

Equipment/CNC Router/Hand Controller

2019-02-24T17:00:42Z

Mmorin: /* Cheat sheet */

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]] / Hand Controller

We have a [http://www.ddcnc.com/content/?107.html new controller] as of February 22nd, 2019. Thank you to Michael Dales and Adrian van den Heever who installed it.

Please read the [https://www.nvcnc.net/pdf/NVCNC_DM500.pdf User's manual (PDF)] for all the information. Most settings are similar to the old router ([http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf User's manual]).

== Emergency ==

The most important instruction is how to stop a job in an emergency: touch the yellow button with "PAUSE" at the bottom.

== Main operational changes ==

- *Feed rates come from G-code by default* - check your software tools to see what they use. You can adjust it up and down from this on the pendant (up to a safety limit of 3000 mm/min).
- There is no madatory home on power on, but you should do this when you first power on the machine.
- No changes are required in terms of g-code supported - proceed as you did for the previous pendant (modulo the feeds thing above).
- There's no internal storage on the pedant, designs run from the USB stick.

In initial usage one may get confused ramping up the feed rate whilst it was doing non-straight designs, so, until we shake out all the "features" please be cautious, and let the owners know if you have any issues.

=== What if the router refuses to run? ===

If you have done everything right and the router still won't start when you press "Run", you may have a soft-X edge issue. One user had homed the head to the point at the most left and bottom, set X-Y zero, but the router could not start from there. After turning on and off again and doing the same, in the second run the point at the most left and bottom was not the zero set in the first run. So the machine may have some variance in that lower left point.

Move the head up and right by around 0.3mm, set X-Y to 0 again, and try again.

=== Setting Z-0 ===

* Put probe under bit
* Press advanced button
* Scroll down to Probe
* Press okay and wait

It takes it a moment or two to get started, but otherwise seems fine.

== Cheat sheet ==

The manual is reasonably penetrable - skip to page 12 and start from there for how to use it.

Feed rates now need to be set in your software tool! Spindle speed is still controlled manually.

When the machine is in an error mode, once you’re happy things are okay, press RESET to go back to a usable state.

The pendant has three main screens, which you switch between using the MENU button.

* 1: The main operation screen
* 2: The file selection screen
* 3: The machine configuration screen (password locked, only owners can change)

* When on the operation screen, what the key presses do depends on the mode it is in, which is selectable by pressing TAB. If they keys don’t do what you expect then this is probably why.

* When the machine starts it starts in the error state, so press RESET one you’re happy the machine is okay.

* The CNC Router should be homed before use (see 5.2.5.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Press HOME
* Press OK
* Wait whilst the machine finds the origin

* Before working on your piece you need to set the X and Y origin (see 5.3.2 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Move the gantry to the correct X/Y position using the arrows (see 5.2.3 in the manual)
* Press the XY->0 button

* Every time you change a bit you need to set the Z origin (see 5.4.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Secure the bit in the spindle
* Put the Z-probe puck under the bit
* Press ADVANCED to bring up the advanced menu
* Select PROBE from the menu
* The gantry will move down to touch the puck

* You will need to select a g-code file to run (see 5.5.1 in the manual):
* Insert USB stick with file on - DO NOT REMOVE UNTIL JOB IS FINISHED
* Press MENU to go to the file selection screen
* Navigate to file you want
* Press OK
* This will now take you back to the main screen. At the top of screen you should see the name of the file you picked.

* To run the selected file from the main screen (see 5.2.4 in the manual):
* Ensure the spindle is running
* Press RUN
* It takes a little longer to get started than the old pendant, be patient

* The feed rate can be adjusted whilst the program is running (see 5.5.3.4 in the manual), both slower and faster than rate specified in the file (up to a maximum of 3000 mm/min). To change the feed rate whilst your g-code is running:
* Press TAB until FRO (Feed Rate Override) in the top right is highlighted
* Use the +% and -% buttons to change
* Note the manual recommends general you set the feed rate high and go slower with the FRO, rather than using FRO to run at more than 100%.

* To pause a running job press PAUSE. To abort the current job press RESET.

Equipment/CNC Router/Hand Controller

2019-02-24T17:00:10Z

Mmorin:

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]] / Hand Controller

We have a [http://www.ddcnc.com/content/?107.html new controller] as of February 22nd, 2019. Thank you to Michael Dales and Adrian van den Heever who installed it.

Please read the [https://www.nvcnc.net/pdf/NVCNC_DM500.pdf User's manual (PDF)] for all the information. Most settings are similar to the old router ([http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf User's manual]).

== Emergency ==

The most important instruction is how to stop a job in an emergency: touch the yellow button with "PAUSE" at the bottom.

== Main operational changes ==

- *Feed rates come from G-code by default* - check your software tools to see what they use. You can adjust it up and down from this on the pendant (up to a safety limit of 3000 mm/min).
- There is no madatory home on power on, but you should do this when you first power on the machine.
- No changes are required in terms of g-code supported - proceed as you did for the previous pendant (modulo the feeds thing above).
- There's no internal storage on the pedant, designs run from the USB stick.

In initial usage one may get confused ramping up the feed rate whilst it was doing non-straight designs, so, until we shake out all the "features" please be cautious, and let the owners know if you have any issues.

=== What if the router refuses to run? ===

If you have done everything right and the router still won't start when you press "Run", you may have a soft-X edge issue. One user had homed the head to the point at the most left and bottom, set X-Y zero, but the router could not start from there. After turning on and off again and doing the same, in the second run the point at the most left and bottom was not the zero set in the first run. So the machine may have some variance in that lower left point.

Move the head up and right by around 0.3mm, set X-Y to 0 again, and try again.

=== Setting Z-0 ===

* Put probe under bit
* Press advanced button
* Scroll down to Probe
* Press okay and wait

It takes it a moment or two to get started, but otherwise seems fine.

== Cheat sheet ==

* The manual is reasonably penetrable - skip to page 12 and start from there for how to use it.

* Feed rates now need to be set in your software tool! Spindle speed is still controlled manually.

* When the machine is in an error mode, once you’re happy things are okay, press RESET to go back to a usable state.

* The pendant has three main screens, which you switch between using the MENU button.
* 1: The main operation screen
* 2: The file selection screen
* 3: The machine configuration screen (password locked, only owners can change)

* When on the operation screen, what the key presses do depends on the mode it is in, which is selectable by pressing TAB. If they keys don’t do what you expect then this is probably why.

* When the machine starts it starts in the error state, so press RESET one you’re happy the machine is okay.

* The CNC Router should be homed before use (see 5.2.5.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Press HOME
* Press OK
* Wait whilst the machine finds the origin

* Before working on your piece you need to set the X and Y origin (see 5.3.2 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Move the gantry to the correct X/Y position using the arrows (see 5.2.3 in the manual)
* Press the XY->0 button

* Every time you change a bit you need to set the Z origin (see 5.4.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Secure the bit in the spindle
* Put the Z-probe puck under the bit
* Press ADVANCED to bring up the advanced menu
* Select PROBE from the menu
* The gantry will move down to touch the puck

* You will need to select a g-code file to run (see 5.5.1 in the manual):
* Insert USB stick with file on - DO NOT REMOVE UNTIL JOB IS FINISHED
* Press MENU to go to the file selection screen
* Navigate to file you want
* Press OK
* This will now take you back to the main screen. At the top of screen you should see the name of the file you picked.

* To run the selected file from the main screen (see 5.2.4 in the manual):
* Ensure the spindle is running
* Press RUN
* It takes a little longer to get started than the old pendant, be patient

* The feed rate can be adjusted whilst the program is running (see 5.5.3.4 in the manual), both slower and faster than rate specified in the file (up to a maximum of 3000 mm/min). To change the feed rate whilst your g-code is running:
* Press TAB until FRO (Feed Rate Override) in the top right is highlighted
* Use the +% and -% buttons to change
* Note the manual recommends general you set the feed rate high and go slower with the FRO, rather than using FRO to run at more than 100%.

* To pause a running job press PAUSE. To abort the current job press RESET.

Equipment/CNC Router/Hand Controller

2019-02-24T16:58:09Z

Mmorin:

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]] / Hand Controller

We have a [http://www.ddcnc.com/content/?107.html new controller] as of February 22nd, 2019. Thank you to Michael Dales and Adrian van den Heever who installed it.

Please read the [https://www.nvcnc.net/pdf/NVCNC_DM500.pdf User's manual (PDF)] for all the information. Most settings are similar to the old router ([http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf User's manual]).

== Emergency ==

The most important instruction is how to stop a job in an emergency: touch the yellow button with "PAUSE" at the bottom.

== Main operational changes ==

- *Feed rates come from G-code by default* - check your software tools to see what they use. You can adjust it up and down from this on the pendant (up to a safety limit of 3000 mm/min).
- There is no madatory home on power on, but you should do this when you first power on the machine.
- No changes are required in terms of g-code supported - proceed as you did for the previous pendant (modulo the feeds thing above).
- There's no internal storage on the pedant, designs run from the USB stick.

In initial usage one may get confused ramping up the feed rate whilst it was doing non-straight designs, so, until we shake out all the "features" please be cautious, and let the owners know if you have any issues.

=== What if the router refuses to run? ===

If you have done everything right and the router still won't start when you press "Run", you may have a soft-X edge issue. One user had homed the head to the point at the most left and bottom, set X-Y zero, but the router could not start from there. After turning on and off again and doing the same, in the second run the point at the most left and bottom was not the zero set in the first run. So the machine may have some variance in that lower left point.

Move the head up and right by around 0.3mm, set X-Y to 0 again, and try again.

=== Setting Z-0 ===

* Put probe under bit
* Press advanced button
* Scroll down to Probe
* Press okay and wait

It takes it a moment or two to get started, but otherwise seems fine.

== Cheat sheet ==

* The manual is reasonably penetrable - skip to page 12 and start from
there for how to use it.

* Feed rates now need to be set in your software tool! Spindle speed is
still controlled manually.

* When the machine is in an error mode, once you’re happy things are okay,
press RESET to go back to a usable state.

* The pendant has three main screens, which you switch between using the
MENU button.
* 1: The main operation screen
* 2: The file selection screen
* 3: The machine configuration screen (password locked, only owners can
change)

* When on the operation screen, what the key presses do depends on the mode
it is in, which is selectable by pressing TAB. If they keys don’t do what
you expect then this is probably why.

* When the machine starts it starts in the error state, so press RESET one
you’re happy the machine is okay.

* The CNC Router should be homed before use (see 5.2.5.1 in the manual). To
do this from the main screen:
* Press HOME
* Press OK
* Wait whilst the machine finds the origin

* Before working on your piece you need to set the X and Y origin (see
5.3.2 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Move the gantry to the correct X/Y position using the arrows (see
5.2.3 in the manual)
* Press the XY->0 button

* Every time you change a bit you need to set the Z origin (see 5.4.1 in
the manual). To do this from the main screen:
* Secure the bit in the spindle
* Put the Z-probe puck under the bit
* Press ADVANCED to bring up the advanced menu
* Select PROBE from the menu
* The gantry will move down to touch the puck

* You will need to select a g-code file to run (see 5.5.1 in the manual):
* Insert USB stick with file on - DO NOT REMOVE UNTIL JOB IS FINISHED
* Press MENU to go to the file selection screen
* Navigate to file you want
* Press OK
* This will now take you back to the main screen. At the top of screen
you should see the name of the file you picked.

* To run the selected file from the main screen (see 5.2.4 in the manual):
* Ensure the spindle is running
* Press RUN
* It takes a little longer to get started than the old pendant, be
patient

* The feed rate can be adjusted whilst the program is running (see 5.5.3.4
in the manual), both slower and faster than rate specified in the file (up
to a maximum of 3000 mm/min). To change the feed rate whilst your g-code is
running:
* Press TAB until FRO (Feed Rate Override) in the top right is
highlighted
* Use the +% and -% buttons to change
* Note the manual recommends general you set the feed rate high and go
slower with the FRO, rather than using FRO to run at more than 100%.

* To pause a running job press PAUSE. To abort the current job press RESET.

Things and stuff

2019-02-24T16:54:23Z

Mmorin: pop rivets

For larger items, see the [[Equipment]] page.

This page is to help you to find smaller items, and to help you to put them back in the right place so others can find them. (Use the in-page search in your browser.)

Some items have extra names in brackets after their usual name; please include all names that people might use to search for a particular item.

==The corridor==

* Badger
* Showcase
* Cupboards including Arduinos, personal laser stock, Family Makers supplies, monitors, keyboards and mice
* Lost property
* [[Infrastructure/Member Personal Storage|Personal storage boxes]]

==The classroom==

* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Classroom/Seating|Stacking chairs]]
* Folding tables
* Non-stacking, non-folding sofas

==Main space==

{|
|+ Main Space
|-
! South
! aisle
! Central
! aisle
! North
|-
|
| Windowsill
| Door from corridor
| Windowsill with landline phone
|
|-
| [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
[[File:Glassworking.jpg]]
* Kiln
* Torch
| [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
[[File:Vacuum-former.jpg]]
* Bike repair stuff is usually under this table
|
| Wire and components
* Capacitors
* Resistors
* 74nn ICs (7400 series)
* Wire
| Electronics workbench
* Insulating tape
* Wire strippers
* Pliers
* Needle files
* Screwdrivers
|-
| [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench | Fine metalwork bench]]
[[File:Fine-metalwork-bench.jpg]]
* Dustbuster (small vacuum cleaner)
* Flexible shaft tool
* Scriber
* Centre punch
* Digital calipers (micrometer)
* Flat Stake
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike)
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening)
* Rawhide mallet (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)
|
| Table
|
| Electronics workbench
[[File:Electronics-workbenches.jpg]]
On shelves:
* BNC connectors, aerial connectors
* More wire
* Screwdrives, small pliers, etc
* Stripboard
* Solder suckers
* Voltmeters
* Soldering iron tips
* PSUs (Power Supply Units)
* Breadboards
|-
| Laser cutter stock
[[File:Laser-stock.jpg]]
|
| Table
[[File:White-table.jpg]]
|
|-
|-
| Laser cutter computer
[[File:Betsy-desk.jpg]]
|
|
|
| Ultimaker [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]
[[File:Ultimaker.jpg]]
|-
| [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Betsy.jpg]]
| Laser cutter computer
[[File:Jaws-computer.jpg]]
* Swarfega wipes
| [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Jaws.jpg]]
|
| Makerbot
[[File:Makerbot.jpg]]
* Printer thread
|-
| Formlabs 3D printer
[[File:Formlabs.jpg]]
|
|
|
|
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:Roland-mill.jpg]]
* Plates for model mill
|-
| Formlabs desk
[[File:Chargers.jpg]]
* Automatic plant watering system
* AA (etc) battery chargers
|
| Table
|
| Sink area
[[File:Sink-area.jpg]]
* First aid kit
* Eye washout kit
* Torch
* Cleaning cloths
* Liquid soap
* Swarfega
* Fly spray (insecticide)
* Watering can
* Plant food (Baby Bio)
|-
| Desks
[[File:Assorted-desk.jpg]]
|
| Table
|
| [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting area]]
[[File:Screen-printing-area.jpg]]
* Screen printing equipment
* Drying racks
|-
|
|
| Table
[[File:Big-table.jpg]]

General hacking area

* Mains sockets
* USB chargers
|
| Door to workshop
|-
| [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]
[[File:Laser-printers.jpg]]
* Paper
* Stationery including pens, sellotape, whiteboard pens
* CAT-5?
|
| Table
|
| Big shelves
[[File:Deep-shelves.jpg]]
* PPE (goggles, ear protectors, dustmasks)
* PAT testing queue
* Duct tape
* Mains extension reels
* PVA
* Hot air guns (paint strippers)
* Tape measures
|-
| Stair landing to kitchen
| Stairs to kitchen
| Plants and flat storage
* Crimping tools
* Craft knives
* Cable ties
* Rawlplugs
* Watch batteries / button cells
| Fire exit / door to big bins
| Wood offcuts for recycling
|}

==The workshop==

===West side / left as you go in===

* Springs
* Nuts and bolts, machine screws
* Rivet tool (as in [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/cammakespace/pop$20rivets%7Csort:date/cammakespace/V3RB17i4Z9E/wUdgPApUAQAJ this thread], bring your own pop rivets)
* Flat pencils
* G-clamps
* Battery charger for cordless tools
* Vacuum cleaner (Henry)
* Fretsaw
* Chemicals cupboard (below worksurface): contains isopropyl alcohol for cleaning
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]

===Central island===

* Steel rules, rulers, straight edges
* Set squares
* Spirit level

In their own boxes under table:

* Cordless drill
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]
* Jigsaw

===East side===

On the right as you go in:

* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe - Myford]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]
* Clamps
* Small nuts and bolts
* Drill bits
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]]

In storage bins:
* Files
* Screwdrivers
* Allen keys (Hex keys)
* Torx keys (Star screwdrivers)

Hand tools on shadowboard:
* Hammers
* Hacksaws
* Pliers

==The treasure trove==

=== Wall nearest door ===

* Old disk drives including floppy drives

=== Near side of central shelves ===

* Old audio / video stuff you could rebuild for something
* Personal supplies of flat stuff that is too big for elsewhere
* Old "tower" computer cases

=== Far side of central shelves ===

* Electrical cables selection
* Bits of cameras
* Computer (ATX?) PSUs

=== Far shelves ===

* Mains power supplies of many kinds
* Fans
* Capacitors
* Resistors

=== Unclassified location ===

* Various electrical connections and fittings
* Multi-way mains extensions
* Nabaztags (electric rabbits)
* Just about anything for repurposing

==The kitchen (Cakespace)==

* Kettle
* Microwave
* Drinks
* Snacks
* Liquid soap
* Cleaning materials
* Bin bags
* Dishwasher
* Coffee machine (bean-to-cup)
* Crockery
* Cutlery
* Glasses
* Cups

==Craft Room==

* Vinyl cutter
* Vinyl cutter stock
* Knitting machine
* Sewing machines
* Thread
* T-shirt press
* Crafting table

==Unknown location==

If you know where the things in this section are, please move their names to the appropriate section.

Equipment/CNC Router/Hand Controller

2019-02-24T11:08:57Z

Mmorin: Add soft-X edge

Equipment/CNC Router/Hand Controller

2019-02-24T10:38:38Z

Mmorin: add Z-0

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]] / Hand Controller

We have a new controller as of February 22nd, 2019. Thank you to Michael Dales and Adrian van den Heever who installed it.

Please read the [https://www.nvcnc.net/pdf/NVCNC_DM500.pdf User's manual (PDF)] for all the information. Most settings are similar to the old router ([http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf User's manual]).

== Emergency ==

The most important instruction is how to stop a job in an emergency: touch the yellow button with "PAUSE" at the bottom.

== Setting Z-0 ==

* Put probe under bit
* Press advanced button
* Scroll down to Probe
* Press okay and wait

It takes it a moment or two to get started, but otherwise seems fine.