Makespace - User contributions [en]

Equipment/Laser Cutter

2015-09-10T11:05:37Z

PeterS: /* Tips & Tricks */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Laser Cutter

[[File:Makespace-laser-cutter.JPG|thumb|460px|right|Our LS6090 PRO Laser Cutter]]

= Summary =

We have two LS 6090 PRO Laser Cutters. Each has a working area of 900mm by 600mm, and is powered by a 60w CO2 Water Cooled Laser Tube that can engrave and cut through materials such as wood, plastic, card, leather, fabrics, up to about 10-15mm thick (note, it can not cut metal). The laser cut is approximately 0.15mm wide, and a job can take a few seconds through to tens of minutes depending on material thickness and design complexity.

We have dedicated PCs running LaserCut 5.3 software to import, prepare and download jobs to the Laser Cutter. It can import various formats, with DXF being the most commonly used, so various software packages can be used to create your designs.

Here are some examples of laser jobs we've run (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:Laser-cut-focus-tool.JPG
File:Laser-cut-front-panels.JPG
File:Laser-cut-lizards.JPG
File:Laser-cut-m-and-s.JPG
File:Laser-cut-model-building.JPG
File:Laser-cut-ply-m.JPG
File:Laser_output_-_makespace_arrow.JPG
File:Laser_box.jpg
File:Croc-small.jpg
File:LaserCutter_Jobs_1.jpg
File:LaserCutterGallery_20130328.jpg
File:LasercutSettlers.jpg
File:Wolfstock1.jpg
File:Mug-holder.jpg
File:2013-10-21 20.10.06.jpg
File:Indy jigster.png
</gallery>

= Using the Laser Cutter =

The laser cutter is a great way to easily produce accurate and complex 2D forms in various materials, and can be designed for with limited experience in various drawing or CAD applications. At the same time, it is an expensive tool with real risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. '''You must only use the laser cutter if you have been trained, and if you are ever in any doubt about something, please ask for assistance.'''

== Owners ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the laser cutter, organising maintenance, responding to technical issues and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the Laser Cutter are:

* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]
* [[User:DianaProbst|Diana Probst]]
* [[User:stevancw|Stevan Wing]]
* Owners who are a little less current, but may still be able to help:
** [[User:Simon|Simon Ford]]
** [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]
** [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]
** [[User:Tmonca|Toby Moncaster]]

== Trainers ==

The Trainers are those who have volunteered to teach others to use the laser cutter and to promote good working practice. The current Trainers for the Laser Cutter are:

* Brian Starkey
* [[User:stevancw|Stevan Wing]]
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]
* [[User:robv|Rob Voisey]]

* Currently slightly less frequent trainers are:
** Martin de Selincourt
** [[User:Simon|Simon Ford]]
** [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]
** [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]
** [[User:Tmonca|Toby Moncaster]]

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the laser cutter, please use the forum page:
* [http://makespace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=45 Laser Cutter Log]

For the old mailing list thread see here:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/Tmce2iKVzD8/discussion Log : Laser Cutter]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
YOU CAN ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED 
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the laser cutter and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Laser Cutter Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training|Laser Cutter Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

The laser cutter is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the laser cutter are:
* '''ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE LASER CUTTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''
* '''KNOW WHAT TO DO IF A FIRE BREAKS OUT'''
* '''NEVER CUT MATERIALS THAT YOU DON'T KNOW ARE SAFE'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''FIRE (under normal operation)''' - Cutting at the wrong speed or the wrong power can result in the material igniting
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur
* Small flashes of flame that don't hang around for a fraction of a second are acceptable, but any more is rare and not acceptable
* If a fire does take, this is the process you should follow (from minor to major):
** Press "pause" (the same button you started the job with) - This will turn the laser off so no more heat enters, and assuming the flame goes out, you can press "start" for the job to continue where it left off
** Open the lid - With the job paused, you can open the lid to blow out the flame. Again, it is possible to re-close the lid and continue where you left off
** Move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics; alternatively send the laser to home/datum), and smother with a spare sheet of material or blow out
** Use the workshop CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at

'''FIRE (abnormal operation)''' - If the head gets stuck or something else goes wrong, ignition could happen much more suddenly or intensely
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur
* If the head gets trapped (e.g. tomb-stoning of a piece, mechanical failure) or any other problem occurs that causes or could cause fire, this is the process you should follow:
** Hit the emergency stop
** Open the lid and move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics)
** Blow out, smother with a spare sheet of material, or use the CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame as appropriate
* Ensure a Maintainer looks at the machine before it is brought back in to action if it is not obvious what went wrong and all is ok
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at

'''FUMES''' - The laser cutting process will release different smoke and fumes depending on the material.
* Never cut PVC or a material you are not sure is safe. When PVC is heated it releases chlorine gas, this mixes with the moisture in the air and the result is hydrochloric acid which is toxic to humans and corrosive to machines.
* Ensure the filter is on and the cutter lid stays closed for a while after a job to allow the fumes to clear.
* If you are feeling strange, think the fume build up is too much, or for any other reason you are unsure, stop the job.

'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the cutter can be moved by the front panel menu or programs in the machines memory.
* Be careful when working inside the cutting area or with the lid open not to trap hands, hair, clothing or anything else.
* Always check the machine for unexpected items that may have fallen in before closing the lid.
* Do not attempt to climb into the machine!

'''LASER BURNS/LIGHT''' - A 60W laser can do real damage.
* The laser should be safe within the confines of the machine, and cut-off automatically when the lid is open (although this should not be relied upon). The top window is safe to look through during a job, but do not attempt to interfere with these windows or the laser or in any way invent some way to look at the laser.
* Do not tamper with the laser cutter, or any interlocks. All side panels of the laser should always be closed and locked whilst the machine is plugged in.
* Do not put metal in the laser cutter.

== Can I cut it? ==

*Woody things
** Wood: yes! (be careful of fire)
** Plywood: yes if it is "laser ply". Normal plywood has non-laser compatible glue
** MDF: no. Clogs up our filters and smells bad.
** LaserMDF: no. It produces perhaps 50% the gunk of MDF but still too much.
** Cork: yes. Let us know how it goes!

*Plasticy things
** Acrylic / Perspex: yes!
** PVC/Vinyl: absolutely not. Produces chlorine.
** Silicone: we tried it with very limited success. A mm or two perhaps, anything else chars and doesn't cut.
** White Delrin/Acetal: yes with great care. Make sure filters running well. Don't open lid too quickly. Check for fumes and fire.
** Black Delrin/Acetal: no. contains carbon black which can be toxic.
** Teflon: no (it is toxic)
** Nylon: no (consult an owner)
** Polythene/polyethylene: no (consult an owner)
** Lexan/Polycarbonate: no (consult an owner)
** Polypropylene: yes just. You must clean the bed. It will cut up to about 2mm. It's not a great quality cut, but just about doable. Fire risk.
** GPPS / Polystyrene / HIPS in thin solid sheet form: maybe. ask owner to help. NO FOAM (it's highly flammable)

*Papery things
** Card/Paper: yes! (be careful of fire)
** Tissue: yes if super super really careful (be REALLY careful of fire, have emergency procedure in place before you start)

*Metally things
** Metal of any thickness doesn't cut. The surface can be engraved with a paint application. LMM6000 Surmark/Thermark has been tested and is suggested for use, but expensive. The owners suggest a speed of 800 and maximum power.

*Exotics
** Fibre glass: no (unknown resin, glass particles)
** Carbon Fibre: no
** Slate: engravable for good effect

Good list of info here: http://inventionstudio.gatech.edu/wiki/Laser_cutter

== Instructions ==

To use the laser cutter, you must have been trained and have had your name added to the trained user list; these instructions are not a substitute for this training. See the training section to understand how you can become qualified to use the laser cutter.

Although not a requirement, it is recommended someone else trained is also present when using the laser cutter. Having two pairs of eyes helps avoid forgotten steps, allows for double checking, clarifications and discussions, and ensures a greater pool of experience is both present and being built up as the laser is used.

'''Power Up'''

Give the machine a quick visual check. Make sure that there is nothing left on the bed, the water reservoir of the chiller looks normal, and that the equipment has no obvious damage or signs of being out-of-action. If the bed looks like it has residue on it, give it a wipe with IPA and a cloth.

Turn on primary switch on the trunking marked 'Laser'. The air filter system to the right of the laser cutter should start as should the air pump and the chiller. It should power up, make a decent amount of noise, and the lights should indicate the filter is in good condition (i.e. no need for replacement).

Make sure the lid is closed. Turn on the laser using the key on the right hand side. The inspection lamp should come on, a satisfying hum start up, and the cutter go into doing its self-checks.

Before doing any job, the laser should be left to warm up for 4-5 mins. While the machine warms up, power on the adjacent PC and start the LaserCut application from the desktop. During this time the water temperature shown on the chiller should drop from ambient temperature to the usual setting of 18C.

'''Load your Design'''

The PC software has an import facility which seems to be happy taking AutoCAD 2004 DXF files and other formats. The workspace of the laser bed is represented as the workarea in the LaserCut software. If the import doesn't do what you want size-wise, you can select the whole image and then use the 'size' command from the drop down menu to set the dimension you want. Clicking on the three dots ... symbol will adjust the other axis in the same proportion (keeping the aspect ratio fixed). Selecting the 'centre on bed' option will locate your imported drawing on the centre of the machine's cutting bed.

'''Assign Settings to Colours'''

Each part of your drawing that is assigned a different colour can have a different cut action assigned. Each colour will appear on the menu on the right hand side of the screen with numbers related to power and speed of the laser which will be used for the colour.

The main options are to Cut (line) or Engrave (raster fill). A marking on the material is a Cut. For each material and cutting depth required, a corresponding speed and power must be entered. The handbook provided with the machine gives suggested values for various materials but these should be considered as a starting point for a test. See the '''Power and Speed Settings''' section for our guidelines and experiences for these settings.

'''Download to the Cutter'''

Your drawing will feature a blue dot which represents the starting point of the laser; this is by default on the top right corner. In general, you will want to use "immediate" mode, which means this point represents wherever the laser is positioned when you start the job. You can also run the job in absolute mode by unchecking the box, making the job use absolute positioning on the workspace.

To download, select Download and Download Current; the download option will by default call the file on the laser cutter 'LASER'.

'''Set the Focus'''

Before each job, the focus needs to be checked and set by adjusting the height of the bed, and thus the work piece, from the lens. The critical dimension here is 41mm and several gauges made of perspex will be left around the machine. This gauge needs to be a fit between the top surface of the material you intend to cut and the white plastic 'flap' on the lens piece. The height of the table is adjusted using the UP and DOWN buttons. Failure to set the distance correctly will result in an out of focus laser and much bigger (but lower powered) cut line. Always ensure there is clearance between the material and laser head before the head moves.

'''Aligning and Testing the Job'''

The cutter's menu will show the most recent downloaded file highlighted. Pressing the 'test' button will make the head travel along the square maximum extends of the cuts. This shows you that you have the material in the right place, and you have enough of it! You can do this repeatedly, moving the work piece by hand or the laser head using the arrow keys (after hitting ESC), until you are confident you have things where you want them.

'''Cut the Job'''

When happy with the location of the material, close the lid and press 'start' to start the cutter. Watch the head and at least at first be prepared to press the 'stop' button immediately if you find you are burning massive holes in your work piece! This goes back to doing some tests on a sample of your material and making sure you are happy with the cut speeds and power you have selected. You should stay near the cutter at all times and be prepared to pause it or stop it in the event of fire.

'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE CUTTER UNATTENDED'''

'''Finishing'''

The end of the job is signified by a beep. Waiting a few moments for the exhaust pump to clear any remaining smoke is a good idea, especially with wood, and will limit the build up of smells in the rest of the workshop. Remove your work piece, ensuring that all parts are cleared from the bed of the machine.

'''Power Down'''

The cutter is turned off using the key switch, then the air filtering system with the green rocker switch. Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe state for the next user.

'''Clean the bed of debris using the soft brush, then wipe down the bed using IPA and a cloth.'''

If you have been cutting particularly 'dirty' materials, most notable MDF and Ply which leave a sticky residue then you will need to use the course side of one of the oven pads and lots of 'elbow grease'. Residue on the bed can impact the next persons' job so please make the effort to clean up and leave the cutter as you would wish to find it.

Go away excited by what you can make and come back with lots more drawings!

== Power and Speed Settings ==

In due time we will try to build up a large sample stock of materials and record the values which work best. Here are the sample material tests we have so far:

<gallery>
File:Laser-schmoo-3mm-acrylic.JPG|3mm Acrylic
File:Laser-schmoo-10mm-acrylic.JPG|10mm Acrylic
File:Laser-schmoo-9mm-mdf.JPG|9mm MDF (note: do not cut MDF - see above!)
</gallery>

Settings to get you started:
*3mm Acrylic: Speed 12, Power 100, Corner power 100
*5mm Acrylic: Speed 6, Power 100, Corner power 100
*Acrylic shallow cut: Speed 30, power 50, corner power 50
*Etching acrylic: Speed 400, Power 50, Spacing 0.05

To make your own material test, a test grid can be downloaded here: [[Media:Test grid.zip]]

== Tips & Tricks ==

* If the laser cutter's user interface does not seem to respond/do what you want, hit "ESC" to return to 'normal mode'.
* The opaque white acrylic needs slightly stronger settings for surface cuts as they are not as visible as in the transparent acrylic (i.e., for similar effect you need a deeper cut). Otherwise seems to cut equivalently to transparent acrylics.
* If you want a tight fit of pieces or very accurate sizing, keep in mind that the laser beam has a width of just over 0.1 mm (maybe 0.11 or 0.12 mm). So all exterior cut lines should be offset by 0.05 mm; you can do this very easily in the LaserCutter Software with the "Offset" tool (units are in mm, so enter '0.05' and select 'Outer').
* The DXF file format stores values only (not values and units). The internal units in the LaserCutter are in mm. If you set your document's units to mm in the exporting CAD system it should work fine, but generally it is a good idea to have a piece of geometry of known length, e.g. a line 100mm long, or a box of known size around your design. This makes adjusting the scaling a lot easier.
* If you want to export a DXF from Inkscape (which is a great, free vector drawing package), then make sure you do "Object to path" from the Path menu for the whole object and then during the export stage, enable "use ROBO-Master type of spline output". This should make sure all the curves and so on work. NB: in some cases the "ROBO-Master" option actually makes curves not work, and it should be disabled; see this [https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/wiki/Laser_cutter/Inkscape Nottinghack page]
* There's now a page to help with Inkscape and our laser at [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Inkscape]]
* If the jog buttons (arrow keys moving the laser head around) are only moving the head in small single steps rather than moving it continuously, make sure that the jog step size is set to 0.0mm in the Jog Settings section of the menu.

== Fixing strange issues ==

* Etching doesn't work
** Lines are not closed. LaserCut usually warns you about this. Ctrl-a to select all, then Tools->Unite Lines (0.001 should be fine).
** Two copies on top of each other. Copies on top of each other "cancel out" any etching. Delete one copy.
** Test with Menu->Laser->Simulate

* LaserCut will not download to the laser cutter
** Check laser cutter isn't in a paused state
** Restart LaserCut on the PC. (We've not had any usb issues nor needed to restart the laser since upgrading the PC summer 2014).

* Laser cuts things out 2+ times
** Check you don't have two copies loaded on top of each other
** Check it's not set to cut multiple times in LaserCut (this setting is right of the Cut/Engrave/Speed/Power settings)
** Check the laser front panel says "001" at the bottom. If not, press right arrow until the number is highlighted, then down to adjust back to 1, then press return.

* Laser will only cut at the top right of the bed
** Download again with Immediate Mode ticked
** On laser panel, press return (I think?) then right twice (should select the bottom left option), then press return (I think).

*You Hit Emergency stop
** E-M button needs twisting to re-activate
** If that fails - check the circuit breaker inside. From the back of the machine, you want to open the lower flap on the left side, which should be unlocked. Near to the back, there is a breaker board. Flip the flippy bit.

== Material Stock ==
For the stock we hold, please see the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Stock|Laser cutter stock]] page.

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the Laser Cutter is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Laser Cutter Users''')
* Clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth or Swarfega wipes
* Clean any debris off laser bed and surround using soft brush

Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)
* Clean the laser lens with IPA and cotton buds
* Oil the 3 runners with 3-in-one light oil
* Thoroughly clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth
* Check the water level in the cooling tank
* Clean and remove debris from the machine base and catchment drawer

Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)
* Check the water is clean in the cooling tank (i.e. no contamination/organic build up)
* Check filter unit for filter renewal
* Oil the 4 rise and fall lead screws with 3-in-one light oil
* Check mirrors and clean with a disposable sachet lens cleaner cloth (only if needed, mirror coatings are delicate)
* Work through mirror alignment procedure to check alignment of mirrors

== Maintenance Log ==

For full log, see laser cutter wall sheet

'''Reactive Maintenance'''
* 15th Jan 2013, Simon Ford: Laser cutter not powering up, with switching on via key gives no activity whatsoever. No recollection of it cutting out during a job (Alexis), so assume it just stopped turning on at some point. Filter box and power sockets confirmed OK. Diagnosis: RCD in right back panel of Laser reset to off, no obvious reason why. Switching back on brought everything back to life OK.
* 22nd, Simon Ford; 29th, Nicholas - same again.

* Apr 2014, Mat Cook and Diana Probst: after previous changing of chiller water (Roger et al) the pump was complaining of lack of flow. Changed water and filtered, removed small blockage from rubber hose on laser tube.

* 16 Apr 2014, Toby and Diana: changed laser tube, refilled chiller. Laser cutter fully working.

* 25 Oct 2014, Mat and Diana mended lid spring brace. Cutter working fully.

'''Regular Maintenance'''
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)

2013
* January 7, Full, Chris @ HPCLaser'''
* January 14, Basic, Simon Ford
* January 21, Full, Simon Ford (running better than new :)'''
* ...various maintenance events happened...
* April 5th, Full, Simon Ford
* July 1st, Full, David Barham (realigned mirrors)
* July 15th, installed chiller

2014
* 16 Apr 2014, mirror alignment and optics checked after re-installation of tube. All fine. Toby and Diana.
* 19 May 2014, mirrors cleaned, earthing wire on lid tightened. Diana (and Mat's screwdriver)
* 21 May 2014, cleaned lens with Mat Cook. Diana
* 02 Jun 2014, removed and cleaned laser bed
* 14 Sep 2014, cleaned lens and mirrors, realigned. Diana and Brian Starkey

* 30 Jun 2014 Fitted microswitches in series with the magnetic "lid closed" detector.
* ??? 2014 "Jaws" Second laser cutter acquired
* ??? 2014 Fitted microswitch to Jaws

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* 3-in-one light oil
* Cotton Buds
* Lens cleaner sachets
* Soft paint/cleaning brush
* Thermometer for water tank
* Hand held CO2 extinguisher

= Further Information =

* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser Product Page]
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=5&chapter=2 HPCLaser Technical Info]
* [http://www.laserscript.co.uk/phpBB3/ Laserscript Forum]

LaserCut 5.3
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/35.html Homepage]
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/LaserCut5.3%20Manual%20V1.6.pdf Manual]

== Installation ==

<gallery>
File:Laser_-_van.JPG
File:Makespace-laser-install-02.JPG
File:Laser_-_building_2.JPG
File:Laser_-_building.JPG
</gallery>

== Purchase ==

Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£6865.00+vat = £8238.00)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser engraving and cutting machine, 600mm by 900mm 60W] (£5250.00+vat)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34 Laser Fume Filter] (£1250.00+vat)
* Delivery (£190+vat)
* Installation/Training (£175+vat)

== Repairs ==

We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:
* The laser tube (guess every 6-12 months)
* The filter (guess every 3-6 months)
* The optics (guess every 6-12 months)

Maintenance and Spares:
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3 60 watt C02 laser tube] (£275.00+vat)
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=12 50 mm Focus Meniscus Lens] (£75.00+vat)
* Estimate for Call Out (£200.00)

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2014-03-26T22:15:07Z

PeterS: /* Trained */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS; MH, MI, MT; AT, KD, MG, MC; MC, A, AD, NP, RG;

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please '''(a)''' write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
'''(b)''' put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, ''not'' make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see '''[[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]'''

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 4*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

* a joint cutter [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] (a V-block with a clamp to hold fine tube, an end stop and a slot for a saw blade, for making square cuts in fine tube)

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers (there are two calipers, a cheap axminster one [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/] and a better quality one)
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* two 6"/150mm Flat Files, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* one 6"/150mm Half-round file, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* two Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2), two 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat Files, and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe half-round file, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)
* solid strip solder in hard, medium, and easy grades (melt ranges 745-778°C, 720-765°C, 705-723°C)
* liquid flux [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Auflux-Soldering-Fluid-250ml-Uc-prcode-998-108] (kept in the small metal cupboard in the workshop) and a flux brush


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the solder paste we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux (which we also have).

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables

2013-09-08T09:42:43Z

PeterS:

Printable table of stock costs

<table border="1">
<tr><th>Item</th><th>Cost</th><th>Unit</th><th>Comment</th></tr>
<tr><td>Saw blades: </td> <td>£0.30</td><td>each</td><td> per broken sawblade or if you want your own.</td></tr>
<tr><td>Abrasive paper: </td> <td>£0.75</td><td>per sheet</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Abrasive Paper</td> <td>£0.20</td><td>per quarter sheet</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Small drills: </td> <td>£1.00</td><td>per broken drill</td><td>(the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)</td></tr>
<tr><td>Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): </td><td>£0.04</td><td>per square cm</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): </td><td>£0.05</td><td>per square cm</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: </td><td>£1.00</td><td>per square cm</td><td> (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: </td><td>£0.50</td><td> per square cm</td><td>(measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Round Wire 2.00mm: </td><td>£0.30</td><td> per cm (cost is £8.76 for 300mm)</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: </td><td>£0.10</td><td> per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: </td><td>£0.05</td><td> per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: </td><td>£0.03</td><td> per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: </td><td>£0.10</td><td> per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Tube 1.0/1.6mm diameter: </td><td>£0.40</td><td> per cm (cost is £3.82 for 100mm)</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Tube 1.6/2.4mm diameter: </td><td>£0.60</td><td> per cm (cost is £5.28 for 100mm)</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): </td><td>£1.30</td><td> per pair</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): </td><td>£0.10</td><td>each</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: </td><td>£0.15</td><td> each</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): </td><td>£5.50</td><td>each</td><td></td></tr>
<tr><td>Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): </td><td>£6.00</td><td>each</td><td></td></tr>
</table>

Miscellaneous other Consumables

*hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [5]
*polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
*Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
*Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-09-08T09:34:12Z

PeterS: /* Workholding */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please '''(a)''' write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
'''(b)''' put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, ''not'' make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see '''[[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]'''

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 4*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

* a joint cutter [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] (a V-block with a clamp to hold fine tube, an end stop and a slot for a saw blade, for making square cuts in fine tube)

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers (there are two calipers, a cheap axminster one [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/] and a better quality one)
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* two 6"/150mm Flat Files, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* one 6"/150mm Half-round file, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* two Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2), two 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat Files, and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe half-round file, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)
* solid strip solder in hard, medium, and easy grades (melt ranges 745-778°C, 720-765°C, 705-723°C)
* liquid flux [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Auflux-Soldering-Fluid-250ml-Uc-prcode-998-108] (kept in the small metal cupboard in the workshop) and a flux brush


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the solder paste we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux (which we also have).

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-09-08T09:31:52Z

PeterS: /* Soldering */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please '''(a)''' write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
'''(b)''' put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, ''not'' make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see '''[[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]'''

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 4*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers (there are two calipers, a cheap axminster one [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/] and a better quality one)
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* two 6"/150mm Flat Files, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* one 6"/150mm Half-round file, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* two Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2), two 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat Files, and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe half-round file, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)
* solid strip solder in hard, medium, and easy grades (melt ranges 745-778°C, 720-765°C, 705-723°C)
* liquid flux [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Auflux-Soldering-Fluid-250ml-Uc-prcode-998-108] (kept in the small metal cupboard in the workshop) and a flux brush


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the solder paste we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux (which we also have).

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-09-08T09:27:14Z

PeterS: /* How To: Jeweller's Files */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please '''(a)''' write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
'''(b)''' put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, ''not'' make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see '''[[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]'''

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 4*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers (there are two calipers, a cheap axminster one [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/] and a better quality one)
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* two 6"/150mm Flat Files, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* one 6"/150mm Half-round file, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* two Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2), two 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat Files, and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe half-round file, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-09-08T09:26:34Z

PeterS: /* Workholding */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please '''(a)''' write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
'''(b)''' put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, ''not'' make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see '''[[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]'''

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 4*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers (there are two calipers, a cheap axminster one [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/] and a better quality one)
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* two 6"/150mm Flat Files, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* one 6"/150mm Half-round file, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* two Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-09-08T09:26:18Z

PeterS: /* Files and saws */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please '''(a)''' write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
'''(b)''' put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, ''not'' make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see '''[[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]'''

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers (there are two calipers, a cheap axminster one [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/] and a better quality one)
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* two 6"/150mm Flat Files, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* one 6"/150mm Half-round file, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* two Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-09-08T09:25:29Z

PeterS: /* Marking out */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please '''(a)''' write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
'''(b)''' put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, ''not'' make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see '''[[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]'''

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers (there are two calipers, a cheap axminster one [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/] and a better quality one)
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-07-10T22:27:27Z

PeterS: /* Trained */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see [[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-07-10T22:26:37Z

PeterS: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see [[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-07-09T17:35:26Z

PeterS: /* Trained */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

For a table of stock see [[Equipment/Fine metalwork bench consumables]]

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-07-01T20:36:23Z

PeterS: /* Hammering */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (don't hit steel things such as punches with this)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer, labelled `clonking hammer' (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T21:33:17Z

PeterS: /* How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clonking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:53:54Z

PeterS: /* Flexible shaft drill tools */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clocking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Polishing===

TODO

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:53:06Z

PeterS: /* Pliers and tweezers */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clocking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Assorted fine pliers: a Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:52:26Z

PeterS: /* How To: Soldering */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clocking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Make sure you've got water to hand (e.g. in the steel pot) and the pickle ready if you're going to use it.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:51:13Z

PeterS: /* How To: Annealing */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clocking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water
(this is simpler than steel annealing). After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Flexible Shaft Drill

2013-06-30T12:47:06Z

PeterS: /* Summary */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Flexible Shaft Drill

[[File:FlexDrill.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Flexible Shaft Drill]]

= Summary =

This is an "Axminster Heavy Duty Flexible Drive Unit" with a foot control, a 4mm keyed chuck handpiece, and a small handpiece with 2.4 and 3.2mm collets. It can be used with small drills, burrs, and polishing wheels. It's mounted to the [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork bench]].

'''This is a Category Red tool: training is mandatory.'''

The current owners are: Peter Sewell

Trained: AH, HW, STJ, MP.

= Using the Flexible Shaft Drill =

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment]]

It is essential for anyone using the drill, or nearby spectators, to wear eye protection whenever the drill is running.
Some usages (polishing, in particular) also require a face mask.

The main risk is eye damage: the small drills and other tools sometimes break or grab the workpiece, and they can fly off at high speed in any direction. Grinding and polishing wheels can also send small particles of grit flying off. Action: users must wear eye protection, always.

Additionally, polishing can generate fine dust which should not be inhaled. Action: users should use a face mask when polishing.

Using the drill involves rapidly spinning drills and other tools close to one's fingers. Action: users need to take care to hold and support the drill and workpiece appropriately.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, the burrs and wheels for fine metalworking must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold.

All the flexible shaft accessories (burrs, wheels, handpieces, etc.) must be put away in the right place (one of the drawers of the grey filing cabinet) after use.

When changing handpieces, the projecting ridge on the flexible shaft has to be lined up with the connector inside the handpiece.

When changing collets, only modest finger-tight force on the spanner should be used.

Small drills (less than 1.5mm) can break very easily unless due care is used.

== Usage ==

First select the appropriate handpiece. We have a keyed chuck, for drills between 0.3 and 4.0 mm, and a collet handpiece, for burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts.
To change handpieces, hold the black knurled region on the end of the flexible shaft in one hand, and the handpiece in the other, and pull apart. To put on the other handpiece, line up the projecting ridge on the flexible shaft with the connector inside the handpiece and push together (this shouldn't need too much force: check the alignment if it does).

To change the collet: unscrew the conical cap on the end of the handpiece with the small black spanner, replace the collet with the other one, screw the conical cap back on, and tighten gently with the spanner.

More explanation and pictures are on the [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork bench]] page.

Equipment/Flexible Shaft Drill

2013-06-30T12:46:40Z

PeterS:

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Flexible Shaft Drill

[[File:FlexDrill.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Flexible Shaft Drill]]

= Summary =

This is an "Axminster Heavy Duty Flexible Drive Unit" with a foot control, a 4mm keyed chuck handpiece, and a small handpiece with 2.4 and 3.2mm collets. It can be used with small drills, burrs, and polishing wheels. It's mounted to the [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork bench]].

'''This is a Category Red tool: training is mandatory.'''

The current owners are: Peter Sewell

Trained: AH, HW, STJ.

= Using the Flexible Shaft Drill =

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment]]

It is essential for anyone using the drill, or nearby spectators, to wear eye protection whenever the drill is running.
Some usages (polishing, in particular) also require a face mask.

The main risk is eye damage: the small drills and other tools sometimes break or grab the workpiece, and they can fly off at high speed in any direction. Grinding and polishing wheels can also send small particles of grit flying off. Action: users must wear eye protection, always.

Additionally, polishing can generate fine dust which should not be inhaled. Action: users should use a face mask when polishing.

Using the drill involves rapidly spinning drills and other tools close to one's fingers. Action: users need to take care to hold and support the drill and workpiece appropriately.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, the burrs and wheels for fine metalworking must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold.

All the flexible shaft accessories (burrs, wheels, handpieces, etc.) must be put away in the right place (one of the drawers of the grey filing cabinet) after use.

When changing handpieces, the projecting ridge on the flexible shaft has to be lined up with the connector inside the handpiece.

When changing collets, only modest finger-tight force on the spanner should be used.

Small drills (less than 1.5mm) can break very easily unless due care is used.

== Usage ==

First select the appropriate handpiece. We have a keyed chuck, for drills between 0.3 and 4.0 mm, and a collet handpiece, for burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts.
To change handpieces, hold the black knurled region on the end of the flexible shaft in one hand, and the handpiece in the other, and pull apart. To put on the other handpiece, line up the projecting ridge on the flexible shaft with the connector inside the handpiece and push together (this shouldn't need too much force: check the alignment if it does).

To change the collet: unscrew the conical cap on the end of the handpiece with the small black spanner, replace the collet with the other one, screw the conical cap back on, and tighten gently with the spanner.

More explanation and pictures are on the [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork bench]] page.

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:45:05Z

PeterS: /* How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clocking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers. Put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:44:16Z

PeterS: /* How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clocking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers, put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit burrs and wheels with 2.4 or 3.2mm shafts. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment

2013-06-30T12:42:20Z

PeterS:

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]

The equipment you can find in Makespace.

== Using our Equipment ==

There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.

Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.

== The Workshop ==

* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
* Metalwork Benches
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
* Woodwork Benches

== The Space ==

* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]
* General Tools
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]

== Proposals and Notes ==

* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]

== Related ==
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.
* [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

Equipment

2013-06-30T12:41:47Z

PeterS:

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metalwork_bench.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbenches]]

[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]

The equipment you can find in Makespace.

== Using our Equipment ==

There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.

Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.

== The Workshop ==

* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
* Metalwork Benches
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
* Woodwork Benches

== The Space ==

* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]
* General Tools
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]

== Proposals and Notes ==

* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]

== Related ==
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.
* [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:40:31Z

PeterS: /* How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clocking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|180px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers, put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit different tools. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:39:51Z

PeterS: /* How To: Jeweller's Files */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Remember: files cut on the push stroke. On the left above, the file is being pushed (leftwards) along the metal. Dually, on the right above, the metal is being pushed rightwards along the file, towards the tang.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clocking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|300px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers, put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit different tools. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:37:59Z

PeterS: /* Tools */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Changing Handpieces ===
There are two handpieces: one with a chuck, for small drills, and one with a choice of two collets, for polishing tools and suchlike with standard-size shafts.
To remove a handpiece, just grasp in and the knurled black part of the flexible shaft and pull apart:

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7682.jpg|300px]]

To attach a handpiece to the shaft, look inside to see which way round the coupling is, turn it so that that matches the tab on the end of the flexible shaft, and push together. If it doesn't go, you may not have them precisely aligned enough.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7680.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7681.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Drilling Holes in Sheet Metal===

First mark out exactly where you want the hole to be, with the scriber. Then support the sheet metal on the anvil of the bench peg or on the steel bench block (not on wood, otherwise the sheet will deform too much), position the tip of the centre punch exactly on the mark, and hit it gently with the clocking hammer (not the planishing hammer, otherwise the surface of that will be ruined!) to make an indentation.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7686.rotated.jpg|300px]]

Now get the drill size you want (likely from the grey box on the counter on the right hand side of the secure workshop). You might have to clean it and to check its size with the calipers, put it in the chuck and tighten with the chuck key.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7683.jpg|300px]]

Put on eye protection, turn on the flexible shaft drill, and spin it up with the foot pedal to get a feel for it. Then support your metal on a scrap of sacrificial wood, locate the drill tip in the indentation, hold your metal to stop it rotating, and gently spin up the drill and push. How much speed and pressure to use is a matter of experience.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7687.jpg|300px]]

===How To: Change collets and fix tools into the collet handpiece===

The collet handpiece has two collets, small split metal pieces with holes of particular diameters to suit different tools. They are held in by a small black threaded cone - to remove that, stop the handpiece rotating by putting the black pin through the hole in the handpiece side (you might need to rotate it to get the holes to line up) and use the little black spanner on the cone. It should be finger-tight, not tightened with all your force. Then you can change collets and refit the cone.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7684.jpg|300px]]

To fix a tool into the handpiece (assuming the right sized collet is in place already), just loosen the black cone a bit, put the tool in, and tighten.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7685.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:18:46Z

PeterS: /* How To: Using the small gas torch */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|180px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:18:31Z

PeterS: /* How To: Using the small gas torch */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.rotated.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:18:13Z

PeterS: /* Soldering */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)


[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:17:38Z

PeterS: /* How To: Jeweller's Files */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_soldering.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:17:25Z

PeterS: /* How To: Jeweller's Files */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]][[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_soldering.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:16:59Z

PeterS: /* How To: Jeweller's Saws */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|600px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]][[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_soldering.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:16:23Z

PeterS: /* How To: Jeweller's Saws */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|300px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]][[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_soldering.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-06-30T12:15:37Z

PeterS:

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench


[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

= Using the fine metalwork bench - General =

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, STJ, MP

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, aluminium, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, aluminium, or lead. Some brass alloys are leaded; other brasses are ok. Wood and plastics are ok in moderation.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

=Tools=

==Workholding==
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

==Marking out==
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

==Magnification==
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Optivisor===
The Optivisor fits over your head (including over glasses if
necessary); the knob on the back controls how tight it is, and
those on the side control how tight the flip action is.
It is *not* eye protection - the lenses are just glass, so don't use this
when using the flexible shaft drill.

==Files and saws==
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)
[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7677.jpg|300px]]

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7676.jpg|300px]]

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== How To: Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7678.jpg|300px]][[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7679.jpg|300px]]

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== How To: Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

==Flexible shaft drill tools==
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

==Hammering==
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

Both the flat stake (or ''bench block'') and triblet have machined-smooth surfaces so that they don't mark any silver that one hits against them. To keep them smooth, it's important not to hit the stake or triblet directly with any steel tools.

=== How To: using the triblet===
The triblet (or ''mandrel'') is a long hard-steel cone, used to make rings circular. To use it, push a ring down the cone as far as it will go, then hit it all round with the rawhide mallet (pushing further down), trying to keep the face of the mallet (when it hits) parallel with the tangent plane of the cone. Doing this aggressively will also stretch the ring.

==Pliers and tweezers==
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

==Soldering==
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_soldering.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7691.jpg|300px]]
[[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Using the small gas torch ===

The torch is kept in the flammables cupboard in the secure workshop. To light it, open the valve on the back and push the piezo button. To turn it off, close that valve firmly (not using your full strength, though). If the torch doesn't have enough gas in, you'll need to turn it off and recharge it from the canister of lighter gas (also kept in that cupboard), by (1) going outside, (2) turning the torch and canister upside down, (3) pushing the small red tube from the canister against the valve on the bottom of the torch, and (4) letting some gas flow in.
[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7689.jpg|300px]]

=== How To: Annealing ===

Silver and copper (and many other metals) *work-harden*: if the metal is deformed, e.g. by bending or hammering, it gets harder (and more brittle). To soften it again it can be *annealed*: warmed up to let the crystals grow. For copper and silver, it suffices to warm them up to the point at which they just glow (in fact, that's hotter than necessary, but usually this isn't a problem). They don't need to be held at that temperature for any significant time, and they can either be left to cool naturally or dunked in water. After annealing you may need to remove any firescale, by abrasives or pickling.

=== How To: Soldering ===

Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.

Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.

To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement). Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them. They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.

To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux. The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings"). For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.

So:
* Prepare the two surfaces to be joined, filing and using abrasive papers as necessary to make them clean and smooth in tight contact.
* Make a clear space on the hot-working bench (the stainless steel one) with the insulated block on the 30cm square flameproof sheet.
* Find the small gas torch (see above). For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
* Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up. Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste. This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going). You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
* Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early. And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint (solder likes to flow towards hot). The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.[[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
* Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
* Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

=== How To: Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== How To: Planishing ===

TODO

=== How To: Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

= To do =
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from a training session (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

and some oxidised-silver tentacles (this is about 25x28mm):

[[Image:gallery3.jpg|300px]]

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