http://wiki.makespace.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Pinski1Makespace - User contributions [en]2026-07-29T05:05:09ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.22.6http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/CNC_Router/Hand_ControllerEquipment/CNC Router/Hand Controller2019-02-25T09:57:30Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]] / Hand Controller<br />
<br />
We have a [http://www.ddcnc.com/content/?107.html new controller] as of February 22nd, 2019. Thank you to Michael Dales and Adrian van den Heever who installed it.<br />
<br />
Please read the [https://www.nvcnc.net/pdf/NVCNC_DM500.pdf User's manual (PDF)] for all the information. Most settings are similar to the old router ([http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf User's manual]). <br />
<br />
== Emergency ==<br />
<br />
The most important instruction is how to stop a job in an emergency: touch the yellow button with "PAUSE" at the bottom.<br />
<br />
== Main operational changes ==<br />
<br />
* '''Feed rates come from G-code by default''' - check your software tools to see what they use. You can adjust it up and down from this on the pendant (up to a safety limit of 3000 mm/min).<br />
* There is no mandatory home on power on, but you should do this when you first power on the machine.<br />
* No changes are required in terms of g-code supported - proceed as you did for the previous pendant (modulo the feeds thing above).<br />
* There's no internal storage on the pedant, designs run from the USB stick.<br />
<br />
In initial usage one may get confused ramping up the feed rate whilst it was doing non-straight designs, so, until we shake out all the "features" please be cautious, and let the owners know if you have any issues.<br />
<br />
=== What if the router refuses to run? ===<br />
<br />
If you have done everything right and the router still won't start when you press "Run", you may have a soft-X edge issue. One user had homed the head to the point at the most left and bottom, set X-Y zero, but the router could not start from there. After turning on and off again and doing the same, in the second run the point at the most left and bottom was not the zero set in the first run. So the machine may have some variance in that lower left point.<br />
<br />
Move the head up and right by around 0.3mm, set X-Y to 0 again, and try again.<br />
<br />
=== Setting Z-0 ===<br />
<br />
* Put probe under bit<br />
* Press advanced button<br />
* Scroll down to Probe<br />
* Press okay and wait<br />
<br />
It takes it a moment or two to get started, but otherwise seems fine.<br />
<br />
== Cheat sheet ==<br />
<br />
The manual is reasonably penetrable - skip to page 12 and start from there for how to use it.<br />
<br />
<br />
Feed rates now need to be set in your software tool! Spindle speed is still controlled manually.<br />
<br />
<br />
When the machine is in an error mode, once you’re happy things are okay, press RESET to go back to a usable state.<br />
<br />
<br />
The pendant has three main screens, which you switch between using the MENU button.<br />
* The main operation screen<br />
* The file selection screen<br />
* The machine configuration screen (password locked, only owners can change)<br />
<br />
<br />
When on the operation screen, what the key presses do depends on the mode it is in, which is selectable by pressing TAB. If they keys don’t do what you expect then this is probably why. <br />
<br />
<br />
When the machine starts it starts in the error state, so press RESET one you’re happy the machine is okay.<br />
<br />
<br />
The CNC Router should be homed before use (see 5.2.5.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:<br />
* Press HOME<br />
* Press OK<br />
* Wait whilst the machine finds the origin<br />
<br />
<br />
Before working on your piece you need to set the X and Y origin (see 5.3.2 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:<br />
* Move the gantry to the correct X/Y position using the arrows (see 5.2.3 in the manual)<br />
* Press the XY->0 button<br />
<br />
<br />
Every time you change a bit you need to set the Z origin (see 5.4.1 in the manual). To do this from the main screen:<br />
* Secure the bit in the spindle<br />
* Put the Z-probe puck under the bit<br />
* Press ADVANCED to bring up the advanced menu<br />
* Select PROBE from the menu<br />
* The gantry will move down to touch the puck<br />
<br />
<br />
You will need to select a g-code file to run (see 5.5.1 in the manual):<br />
* Insert USB stick with file on - DO NOT REMOVE UNTIL JOB IS FINISHED<br />
* Press MENU to go to the file selection screen<br />
* Navigate to file you want<br />
* Press OK<br />
* This will now take you back to the main screen. At the top of screen you should see the name of the file you picked.<br />
<br />
<br />
To run the selected file from the main screen (see 5.2.4 in the manual):<br />
* Ensure the spindle is running<br />
* Press RUN<br />
* It takes a little longer to get started than the old pendant, be patient<br />
<br />
<br />
The feed rate can be adjusted whilst the program is running (see 5.5.3.4 in the manual), both slower and faster than rate specified in the file (up to a maximum of 3000 mm/min). To change the feed rate whilst your g-code is running:<br />
* Press TAB until FRO (Feed Rate Override) in the top right is highlighted<br />
* Use the +% and -% buttons to change<br />
* Note the manual recommends general you set the feed rate high and go slower with the FRO, rather than using FRO to run at more than 100%.<br />
<br />
<br />
To pause a running job press PAUSE. To abort the current job press RESET.</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/SuppliersSuppliers2018-09-04T10:33:04Z<p>Pinski1: /* Non-EU */</p>
<hr />
<div>Places to buy things<br />
<br />
Self populated<br />
<br />
=Electronics=<br />
See [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches]]<br />
*[http://uk.farnell.com/ Farnell]<br />
*[http://cpc.farnell.com/ CPC]<br />
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/ RS Components]<br />
*[http://www.rapidonline.com/ Rapid Electronics]<br />
*[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/ Cool Components]<br />
*[http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ HobbyTronics]<br />
*[http://www.hobbyking.com/ HobbyKing]<br />
*[http://proto-pic.co.uk/ Proto-Pic]<br />
**Reseller of Sparkfun & Adafruit.<br />
*[http://skpang.co.uk/ SKPang]<br />
*[http://www.technobotsonline.com/ Technobots]<br />
*[http://www.phenoptix.com/ Phenoptix]<br />
*[http://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronic]<br />
*[http://www.maplin.co.uk/ Maplin]<br />
*[http://www.active-robots.com/ Active-Robots]<br />
*[http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/ Gimson Robotics]<br />
*Ragworm<br />
<br />
==Non-EU==<br />
NOTE: These shops will charge for postage, customs and VAT.<br />
*[http://www.newark.com/ Newark] - Farnell's US brand.<br />
*[https://www.mouser.co.uk/ Mouser]<br />
*[http://www.digikey.co.uk/ Digikey]<br />
*[http://sparkfun.com/ Sparkfun]<br />
*[http://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit]<br />
*[http://www.tindie.com/ Tindie]<br />
*[https://pcbshopper.com/ PCB Shopper] - PCB price comparison website<br />
*[https://oshpark.com/ OSHPark]<br />
**Outstanding quality, and very reasonably priced. Ideal for small quantities. Rob K.<br />
*[https://dirtypcbs.com/store/pcbs, Dirty PCBs] - Don't just sell PCBs, also custom wire harnesses<br />
**I've found them to deliver nice boards rather cheaply. Not quite as good as OSHPark. Rob K.<br />
*[https://www.pcbway.com/ PCBWay]<br />
** A Chinese PCB company that can do weird boards. Good quality and fast. Rob K.<br />
<br />
=Materials=<br />
<br />
==Metals==<br />
*[http://www.beltingonline.com/ Belting Online]<br />
*[http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/ Bearing Boys]<br />
*[http://simplybearings.co.uk/ Simply Bearings]<br />
*[http://www.bearingstation.co.uk/ Bearing Station]<br />
*[http://budgetbearings.co.uk/ Budget Bearings]<br />
*[http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ KJN]<br />
** "Highly recommended" - Mat C<br />
*[http://www.motedis.co.uk/ Motedis]<br />
**If you want to ask them anything, speak to Kris at kb@motedis.co.uk<br />
*[http://uk.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]<br />
**Call for best results<br />
*Igus<br />
**Difficult to buy from<br />
*[http://www.metallin.co.uk/shop/ Metallin]<br />
*[http://www.worldofcnc.com/ World of CNC]<br />
*[http://metals4u.co.uk Metals4U]<br />
** Good selection, happy to do small quantities. Delivery is fast. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ Westfield Fasteners]<br />
** Excellent for bolts, machine screws, nuts etc. Really good turnaround, prices based on amount you buy but with an excellent interface to make this clear. Limited range of things, but if you're looking for things to attach one thing to another thing they're great. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html Mackay], our local Cambridge hardware shop stock and cut metals --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:56, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==3D Printer==<br />
*[http://www.2engineers.com/ 2Engineers]<br />
**Do ceramic hotends and low weight, high torque motors<br />
*[http://ooznest.co.uk/ Ooz Nest]<br />
* Do 3D printer parts and V-Slot<br />
<br />
==Wood==<br />
* [http://www.ridgeons.co.uk/ Ridgeons] (Builders' Merchants) have two branches in Cambridge, at least the northern one (Nuffield Road) sells timber, I've not tried the other one<br />
*[http://www.slecuk.com/ Slec Ltd] Recommended for laser plywood.<br />
<br />
==Plastic==<br />
*[http://www.edplastics.co.uk/ Engineering & Design Plastics]<br />
** Used these guys to buy heavy acrylic extrusions, they also do bending and custom manufacture.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.ema-models.co.uk/ EMA Models]<br />
** Range of architectural modelling stuff, in particular some unusual extrusion and cast acrylics.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.technologysupplies.co.uk/ Technology Supplies Ltd.]<br />
** I bought the food-grade plastic I used for chocolate moulds from these folk. Very helpful and friendly bunch.--[[User:Kim SJ|Kim SJ]] 20:38, 17 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronic] Recommended for laser acrylic.<br />
<br />
==Composites==<br />
*[http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/ Easy Composites]<br />
** Excellent range of carbon fibre cloth, rods, sheets, tubes etc. Expensive (but no more than anywhere else) but happy to supply small quantities and excellent shipping speed. Use when you really need to save weight in your projects! --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:55, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Jewlery/Glass==<br />
See [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench#Consumables_and_Stock_.28to_pay_by_use.29 | Fine metalwork Bench Consumables and Stock]].<br />
*[http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/ Warm Glass]<br />
** I have an account with these guys and, due to buying the kiln on it, we get a 5% discount. I'm happy to put orders in as long as we combine them to over 75 pounds for shipping. If you do this you don't get the discount, but the money we save goes to common stock needed for the glassworking station such as bead release. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://off-mandrel.com/ Off Mandrel]<br />
** Used for the few things Warm Glass doesn't sell.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Art and Crafts==<br />
*[http://www.tiranti.co.uk/ Tiranti] - suppliers of sculpture, mouldmaking and casting supplies - physical store at Warren Street --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:46, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.origami-shop.com Origami Shop] - Origami papers --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:54, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Optical==<br />
*It's a bit obscure, but should you be after a beam splitter (half mirrored mirror type) [http://www.scientificmirrors.com/ Scientific Mirrors] were very helpful<br />
<br />
=Misc=<br />
*[http://www.ebay.co.uk/ eBay]<br />
*[http://amazon.co.uk/ Amazon]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/ AliExpress]<br />
*[http://www.alibaba.com/ Alibaba]<br />
*[http://www.buyspares.co.uk/ Buys Spares]<br />
* David Neats curated list of UK suppliers for [http://davidneat.wordpress.com/suppliers-2/suppliers/ model making] --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:46, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
==Hand==<br />
==Powered==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===CNC Model Mill===<br />
See [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill#Material_.26_Tooling_Suppliers | CNC Model Mill Material & Tooling Suppliers]].<br />
<br />
=Services=<br />
This page is for companies providing services for things that we can't do in-house.<br />
<br />
*[http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/Acrow_Galvanizing.aspx Acrow Galvanizing] are the nearest hot-dip galvanizers AFAIK. (I don't think we're planning to get a `kettle' of hot zinc in Makespace itself.)<br />
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/ Mackay]<br />
*[http://www.facebook.com/WELDDONEcustomfabrication WeldDone]<br />
** Local TIG welder with 7+ years of experience, fully recommended. --[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] 14:53, 2 April 2014 (BST)<br />
*[http://www.mfg.com/ MFG]<br />
**Chinese manufacturing portal, not used yet.<br />
*[http://www.h2oprofiling.co.uk/ H20 Profiling] Reasonably local and helpful water-jet cutting, no minimum order (often £100) --[[User:JonnyPW|Jonny Waite]]<br />
*[https://k-cut.co.uk/ K Cut] Very popular for combat robotics, stock Hardox in various grades and Aluminium 5083. Extremely fast turnaround --[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 15:57, 11 August 2016 (BST)</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-02-03T18:24:07Z<p>Pinski1: /* Tools Available */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-08-21T22:46:10Z<p>Pinski1: /* Tools Available */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3//8J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-08-21T22:29:18Z<p>Pinski1: /* Tools Available */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3//8J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT<br />
| CCGT<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT<br />
| CCGT<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-08-21T22:26:51Z<p>Pinski1: /* Tools Available */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT<br />
| SCGT<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT<br />
| SCRT<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3//8J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT<br />
| SCGT<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT<br />
| SCGT<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT<br />
| CCGT<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT<br />
| CCGT<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-08-16T22:31:25Z<p>Pinski1: /* Tools Available */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Alu/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-08-10T18:46:08Z<p>Pinski1: /* Tools Available */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Alu/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/MakespaceMakespace2017-08-10T18:45:15Z<p>Pinski1: /* Sponsorship and Donations! */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:WIP+Makespace-dan.png|thumb|frameless|400px|Makespace]]<br />
[http://makespace.org Makespace Homepage] / Wiki<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== What is in Makespace? ==<br />
<br />
* '''[[Equipment|Our Equipment]]'''<br />
* [[Equipment Status]] (experimental page; may not be accurate)<br />
* [[Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Things and stuff]] --- locator for smaller items<br />
<br />
== How does Makespace work? ==<br />
<br />
The space is great for individuals wanting to experiment, startups or companies wanting access to prototyping equipment, companies in the business who can come and do training and provide services beyond Makespace, and groups that want space to meet. Anyone who could benefit from a shared space focused on making things.<br />
<br />
At its core is a membership-based structure; the price of membership is £40/month inc VAT for full membership for 24/7 RFID access, or £33/month inc VAT for full student membership (no access outside of Cambridge university terms).<br />
<br />
It is a community run space; see:<br />
<br />
* [http://makespace.org Makespace Main Website]<br />
* [[Induction|Membership and inductions]]<br />
* [[Useful makespace info for Members]]<br />
* [[Policies]] - ie how stuff works<br />
* [[Latest member news]] - a great place to start if you want to find out what's been happening lately or what's coming up<br />
* Non-exhaustive [[People|list of people]] currently or previously involved.<br />
<br />
== Getting involved ==<br />
<br />
Members are encouraged, and non-members are welcome, to join our [http://groups.google.com/group/cammakespace mailing list]. You can read and post via the web interface or get messages delivered to your inbox.<br />
<br />
If you'd like to find out about upcoming real-world meetings, please join our [http://www.meetup.com/makespace Meetup] group.<br />
<br />
Members: please contribute to this wiki! If you spot something incomplete or out of date, just hit 'edit' and change it.<br />
<br />
We also have an IRC channel (not much used of late): join #makespace on Freenode in your IRC client or via your browser at http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=makespace<br />
<br />
Various communication channels are listed [[Communications|here]].<br />
<br />
Consider becoming an Owner or Trainer.<br />
<br />
== Other information ==<br />
<br />
* [[Cakespace]]<br />
<br />
* [[How to do stuff for Makespace]]<br />
<br />
* [[Makespace member guidelines]]<br />
<br />
* Some information about other groups around the world that may be of interest can be found on the [[Links|Links page]].<br />
<br />
* Some projects may need external [[Service Suppliers]] for things we can't do in-house.<br />
<br />
== Regular groups ==<br />
<br />
There are regular meetings open to non-members on a variety of subjects. Or if not actually regular, at least repeated.<br />
<br />
* [[Family Makers]]<br />
* [[Raspberry Pi-makers]] and home automation<br />
* [[Arduino and Cake]] --- now merged with Raspberry Pi and home automation group<br />
* [[Robo-makers]] (is this still going?)<br />
* [[Things that fly]] --- quadcopters etc (is this still going? might be summer only)<br />
<br />
== Social Meetings ==<br />
<br />
There are always socials - and meetups and other things! The canonical means of arranging these is via Meetup: http://www.meetup.com/Makespace Check out [[Events policy|how to run an event in Makespace]].<br />
<br />
== Formal Meetings ==<br />
There are write-ups of planning and member meetings at [[Makespace/Meetings | Meetings]].<br />
<br />
== External meetings, conferences etc ==<br />
<br />
We list some [[external events]] that may be of interest to Makespace members.<br />
<br />
== Sponsorship and Donations! ==<br />
We're grateful to the founding sponsors who helped set Makespace up. Most current running costs are met from membership payments but we gratefully receive any donations, however small, that can help with developing, running and improving Makespace for everyone. Contact management (at) makespace (dot) org. Thanks!</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-07-26T21:46:04Z<p>Pinski1: /* Tools Available */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Alu/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-07-26T21:43:19Z<p>Pinski1: /* Tools Available */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Alu/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|}</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-07-26T21:42:57Z<p>Pinski1: /* Peripheral tools and accessories */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|}</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Laser_CutterEquipment/Laser Cutter2017-04-09T11:17:13Z<p>Pinski1: /* Power and Speed Settings */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Laser Cutter<br />
<br />
[[File:Makespace-laser-cutter.JPG|thumb|460px|right|Our LS6090 PRO Laser Cutter]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have two LS 6090 PRO Laser Cutters. Each has a working area of 900mm by 600mm, and is powered by a 60w CO2 Water Cooled Laser Tube that can engrave and cut through materials such as wood, plastic, card, leather, fabrics, up to about 10-15mm thick (note, it can not cut metal). The laser cut is approximately 0.15mm wide, and a job can take a few seconds through to tens of minutes depending on material thickness and design complexity. <br />
<br />
We have dedicated PCs running LaserCut 5.3 software to import, prepare and download jobs to the Laser Cutter. It can import various formats, with DXF being the most commonly used, so various software packages can be used to create your designs.<br />
<br />
Here are some examples of laser jobs we've run (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Laser-cut-focus-tool.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-front-panels.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-lizards.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-m-and-s.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-model-building.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-ply-m.JPG<br />
File:Laser_output_-_makespace_arrow.JPG<br />
File:Laser_box.jpg<br />
File:Croc-small.jpg<br />
File:LaserCutter_Jobs_1.jpg<br />
File:LaserCutterGallery_20130328.jpg<br />
File:LasercutSettlers.jpg<br />
File:Wolfstock1.jpg<br />
File:Mug-holder.jpg<br />
File:2013-10-21 20.10.06.jpg<br />
File:Indy jigster.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the Laser Cutter =<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a great way to easily produce accurate and complex 2D forms in various materials, and can be designed for with limited experience in various drawing or CAD applications. At the same time, it is an expensive tool with real risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. '''You must only use the laser cutter if you have been trained, and if you are ever in any doubt about something, please ask for assistance.'''<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the laser cutter, organising maintenance, responding to technical issues and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the Laser Cutter are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]<br />
* [[User:DianaProbst|Diana Probst]]<br />
* Owners who are a little less current, but may still be able to help:<br />
** [[User:Simon|Simon Ford]]<br />
** [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]<br />
** [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are those who have volunteered to teach others to use the laser cutter and to promote good working practice. The current Trainers for the Laser Cutter are:<br />
<br />
* Brian Starkey<br />
* [[User:stevancw|Stevan Wing]]<br />
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]<br />
* [[User:robv|Rob Voisey]]<br />
* Miguel Morin<br />
<br />
* Currently slightly less frequent trainers are:<br />
** Martin de Selincourt<br />
** [[User:Simon|Simon Ford]]<br />
** [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]<br />
** [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
** [[User:Tmonca|Toby Moncaster]]<br />
<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the laser cutter, please use the forum page:<br />
* [http://makespace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=45 Laser Cutter Log]<br />
<br />
For the old mailing list thread see here:<br />
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/Tmce2iKVzD8/discussion Log : Laser Cutter]<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the laser cutter and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Laser Cutter Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training|Laser Cutter Training]]<br />
<br />
== Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the laser cutter are:<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE LASER CUTTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
* '''KNOW WHAT TO DO IF A FIRE BREAKS OUT'''<br />
* '''NEVER CUT MATERIALS THAT YOU DON'T KNOW ARE SAFE'''<br />
<br />
As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''FIRE (under normal operation)''' - Cutting at the wrong speed or the wrong power can result in the material igniting<br />
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur<br />
* Small flashes of flame that don't hang around for a fraction of a second are acceptable, but any more is rare and not acceptable<br />
* If a fire does take, this is the process you should follow (from minor to major):<br />
** Press "pause" (the same button you started the job with) - This will turn the laser off so no more heat enters, and assuming the flame goes out, you can press "start" for the job to continue where it left off<br />
** Open the lid - With the job paused, you can open the lid to blow out the flame. Again, it is possible to re-close the lid and continue where you left off<br />
** Move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics; alternatively send the laser to home/datum), and smother with a spare sheet of material or blow out<br />
** Use the workshop CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame<br />
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at <br />
<br />
'''FIRE (abnormal operation)''' - If the head gets stuck or something else goes wrong, ignition could happen much more suddenly or intensely<br />
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur<br />
* If the head gets trapped (e.g. tomb-stoning of a piece, mechanical failure) or any other problem occurs that causes or could cause fire, this is the process you should follow:<br />
** Hit the emergency stop<br />
** Open the lid and move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics)<br />
** Blow out, smother with a spare sheet of material, or use the CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame as appropriate<br />
* Ensure a Maintainer looks at the machine before it is brought back in to action if it is not obvious what went wrong and all is ok<br />
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at <br />
<br />
'''FUMES''' - The laser cutting process will release different smoke and fumes depending on the material.<br />
* Never cut PVC or a material you are not sure is safe. When PVC is heated it releases chlorine gas, this mixes with the moisture in the air and the result is hydrochloric acid which is toxic to humans and corrosive to machines. <br />
* Ensure the filter is on and the cutter lid stays closed for a while after a job to allow the fumes to clear. <br />
* If you are feeling strange, think the fume build up is too much, or for any other reason you are unsure, stop the job.<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the cutter can be moved by the front panel menu or programs in the machines memory. <br />
* Be careful when working inside the cutting area or with the lid open not to trap hands, hair, clothing or anything else. <br />
* Always check the machine for unexpected items that may have fallen in before closing the lid. <br />
* Do not attempt to climb into the machine!<br />
<br />
'''LASER BURNS/LIGHT''' - A 60W laser can do real damage. <br />
* The laser should be safe within the confines of the machine, and cut-off automatically when the lid is open (although this should not be relied upon). The top window is safe to look through during a job, but do not attempt to interfere with these windows or the laser or in any way invent some way to look at the laser.<br />
* Do not tamper with the laser cutter, or any interlocks. All side panels of the laser should always be closed and locked whilst the machine is plugged in. <br />
* Do not put metal in the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
== Can I cut it? ==<br />
<br />
If it's not on this list, the answer is "NO YOU CAN'T CUT IT AT MAKESPACE". Even if other people say it's ok. Bear in mind that we can't ventilate externally like other people can.<br />
<br />
If it's something that isn't covered here, do ask on the forums and we'll look into it :)<br />
<br />
*Woody things<br />
** Wood: yes! (be careful of fire)<br />
** Plywood: yes if it is "laser ply". Normal plywood has non-laser compatible glue<br />
** MDF: no. Clogs up our filters and smells bad.<br />
** LaserMDF: no. It produces perhaps 50% the gunk of MDF but still too much.<br />
** Cork: yes, but it with a badly charred edge, and won't cut very deeply --- try cutting from the back of your sheet and using the cut to guide a craft knife / scalpel to make a neat cut through to the front.<br />
<br />
*Plasticy things<br />
** Acrylic / Perspex: yes!<br />
** PVC/Vinyl: absolutely not. Produces chlorine.<br />
** Silicone: we tried it with very limited success. A mm or two perhaps, anything else chars and doesn't cut.<br />
** White Delrin/Acetal: yes with great care. Make sure filters running well. Don't open lid too quickly. Check for fumes and fire.<br />
** Black Delrin/Acetal: no. contains carbon black which can be toxic.<br />
** Teflon: no (it is toxic)<br />
** Nylon: no (consult an owner)<br />
** Polythene/polyethylene: no (consult an owner)<br />
** Lexan/Polycarbonate: no (consult an owner)<br />
** Polypropylene: yes just. You must clean the bed. It will cut up to about 2mm. It's not a great quality cut, but just about doable. Fire risk.<br />
** GPPS / Polystyrene / HIPS in thin solid sheet form: maybe. ask owner to help. NO FOAM (it's highly flammable)<br />
<br />
*Papery things<br />
** Card/Paper: yes! (be careful of fire)<br />
** Tissue: yes if super super really careful (be REALLY careful of fire, have emergency procedure in place before you start)<br />
<br />
*Metally things<br />
** Metal of any thickness doesn't cut. The surface can be engraved with a paint application. LMM6000 Surmark/Thermark has been tested and is suggested for use, but expensive. The owners suggest a speed of 800 and maximum power.<br />
<br />
*Exotics<br />
** Fibre glass: no (unknown resin, glass particles)<br />
** Carbon Fibre: no<br />
** Slate: engravable for good effect<br />
<br />
Good list of info here: http://inventionstudio.gatech.edu/wiki/Laser_cutter (page disappeared, some time before 2016-12-12)<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the laser cutter, you must have been trained and have had your name added to the trained user list; these instructions are not a substitute for this training. See the training section to understand how you can become qualified to use the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Although not a requirement, it is recommended someone else trained is also present when using the laser cutter. Having two pairs of eyes helps avoid forgotten steps, allows for double checking, clarifications and discussions, and ensures a greater pool of experience is both present and being built up as the laser is used.<br />
<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
Give the machine a quick visual check. Make sure that there is nothing left on the bed, the water reservoir of the chiller looks normal, and that the equipment has no obvious damage or signs of being out-of-action. If the bed looks like it has residue on it, give it a wipe with IPA and a cloth. <br />
<br />
Turn on primary switch on the trunking marked 'Laser'. The air filter system to the right of the laser cutter should start as should the air pump and the chiller. It should power up, make a decent amount of noise, and the lights should indicate the filter is in good condition (i.e. no need for replacement).<br />
<br />
Make sure the lid is closed. Turn on the laser using the key on the right hand side. The inspection lamp should come on, a satisfying hum start up, and the cutter go into doing its self-checks.<br />
<br />
Before doing any job, the laser should be left to warm up for 4-5 mins. While the machine warms up, power on the adjacent PC and start the LaserCut application from the desktop. During this time the water temperature shown on the chiller should drop from ambient temperature to the usual setting of 18C.<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
The PC software has an import facility ('''file > import''') which seems to be happy taking AutoCAD 2004 DXF files and other formats. The workspace of the laser bed is represented as the workarea in the LaserCut software. If the import doesn't do what you want size-wise, you can select the whole image and then use the 'size' command from the drop down menu to set the dimension you want. Clicking on the three dots ... symbol will adjust the other axis in the same proportion (keeping the aspect ratio fixed). Selecting the 'centre on bed' option will locate your imported drawing on the centre of the machine's cutting bed.<br />
<br />
'''Assign Settings to Colours'''<br />
<br />
Each part of your drawing that is assigned a different colour can have a different cut action assigned. Each colour will appear on the menu on the right hand side of the screen with numbers related to power and speed of the laser which will be used for the colour. <br />
<br />
The main options are to Cut (line) or Engrave (raster fill). A marking on the material is a Cut. For each material and cutting depth required, a corresponding speed and power must be entered. The handbook provided with the machine gives suggested values for various materials but these should be considered as a starting point for a test. See the '''Power and Speed Settings''' section for our guidelines and experiences for these settings.<br />
<br />
'''Download to the Cutter'''<br />
<br />
Your drawing will feature a blue dot which represents the starting point of the laser; this is by default on the top right corner. In general, you will want to use "immediate" mode, which means this point represents wherever the laser is positioned when you start the job. You can also run the job in absolute mode by unchecking the box, making the job use absolute positioning on the workspace. <br />
<br />
To download, select Download and Download Current; the download option will by default call the file on the laser cutter 'LASER'.<br />
<br />
'''Set the Focus'''<br />
<br />
Before each job, the focus needs to be checked and set by adjusting the height of the bed, and thus the work piece, from the lens. The critical dimension here is 41mm and several gauges made of perspex will be left around the machine. This gauge needs to be a fit between the top surface of the material you intend to cut and the white plastic 'flap' on the lens piece. The height of the table is adjusted using the UP and DOWN buttons. Failure to set the distance correctly will result in an out of focus laser and much bigger (but lower powered) cut line. Always ensure there is clearance between the material and laser head before the head moves. <br />
<br />
'''Aligning and Testing the Job'''<br />
<br />
The cutter's menu will show the most recent downloaded file highlighted. Pressing the 'test' button will make the head travel along the square maximum extends of the cuts. This shows you that you have the material in the right place, and you have enough of it! You can do this repeatedly, moving the work piece by hand or the laser head using the arrow keys (after hitting ESC), until you are confident you have things where you want them.<br />
<br />
'''Cut the Job'''<br />
<br />
When happy with the location of the material, close the lid and press 'start' to start the cutter. Watch the head and at least at first be prepared to press the 'stop' button immediately if you find you are burning massive holes in your work piece! This goes back to doing some tests on a sample of your material and making sure you are happy with the cut speeds and power you have selected. You should stay near the cutter at all times and be prepared to pause it or stop it in the event of fire. <br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE CUTTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
The end of the job is signified by a beep. Waiting a few moments for the exhaust pump to clear any remaining smoke is a good idea, especially with wood, and will limit the build up of smells in the rest of the workshop. Remove your work piece, ensuring that all parts are cleared from the bed of the machine.<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
The cutter is turned off using the key switch, then the air filtering system with the green rocker switch. Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe state for the next user. <br />
<br />
'''Clean the bed of debris using the soft brush, then wipe down the bed using IPA and a cloth.'''<br />
<br />
If you have been cutting particularly 'dirty' materials, most notable MDF and Ply which leave a sticky residue then you will need to use the course side of one of the oven pads and lots of 'elbow grease'. Residue on the bed can impact the next persons' job so please make the effort to clean up and leave the cutter as you would wish to find it.<br />
<br />
Go away excited by what you can make and come back with lots more drawings!<br />
<br />
== Power and Speed Settings ==<br />
<br />
In due time we will try to build up a large sample stock of materials and record the values which work best. Here are the sample material tests we have so far:<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Laser-schmoo-3mm-acrylic.JPG|3mm Acrylic<br />
File:Laser-schmoo-10mm-acrylic.JPG|10mm Acrylic<br />
File:Laser-schmoo-9mm-mdf.JPG|9mm MDF (note: do not cut MDF - see above!)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Settings to get you started:<br />
*3mm Acrylic: Speed 12, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*5mm Acrylic: Speed 6, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*Acrylic shallow cut: Speed 30, power 50, corner power 50<br />
*Etching acrylic: Speed 400, Power 50, Spacing 0.05<br />
<br />
To make your own material test, a test grid can be downloaded here: [[Media:Test grid.zip]]<br />
<br />
*3mm Delrin: Speed 10, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*5mm Delrin: Speed 4, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*6mm Delrin: speed 3, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
<br />
== Tips & Tricks ==<br />
<br />
* If the laser cutter's user interface does not seem to respond/do what you want, hit "ESC" to return to 'normal mode'.<br />
* The opaque white acrylic needs slightly stronger settings for surface cuts as they are not as visible as in the transparent acrylic (i.e., for similar effect you need a deeper cut). Otherwise seems to cut equivalently to transparent acrylics.<br />
* If you want a tight fit of pieces or very accurate sizing, keep in mind that the laser beam has a width of just over 0.1 mm (maybe 0.11 or 0.12 mm). So all exterior cut lines should be offset by 0.05 mm; you can do this very easily in the LaserCutter Software with the "Offset" tool (units are in mm, so enter '0.05' and select 'Outer').<br />
* The DXF file format stores values only (not values and units). The internal units in the LaserCutter are in mm. If you set your document's units to mm in the exporting CAD system it should work fine, but generally it is a good idea to have a piece of geometry of known length, e.g. a line 100mm long, or a box of known size around your design. This makes adjusting the scaling a lot easier.<br />
* If you want to export a DXF from Inkscape (which is a great, free vector drawing package), then make sure you do "Object to path" from the Path menu for the whole object and then during the export stage, untick both options for type of export. Choose mm as your unit.<br />
* There's now a page to help with Inkscape and our laser at [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Inkscape]]<br />
* If the jog buttons (arrow keys moving the laser head around) are only moving the head in small single steps rather than moving it continuously, make sure that the jog step size is set to 0.0mm in the Jog Settings section of the menu.<br />
<br />
=== Material Usage ===<br />
You want to use as little material as possible to save money, we want you to use as little material as possible to reduce re-stocking burden and wastage.<br />
There's a neat tool you can use for packing SVG files into small spaces, find it here: http://svgnest.com/<br />
<br />
== Fixing up a job that went wrong ==<br />
<br />
If you messed up a job and, for example, some cut lines weren't cut, you might try to run the job again after recolouring all of the lines except the ones that didn't cut. You can then deselect those lines for output in the Cut/Engrave window on the top right of the Lasercut Interface, and this will keep your positioning.<br />
<br />
If your head has moved, you can try setting some lines to power 1, which should not cut anything, but allows you to see where the head is travelling.<br />
<br />
== Fixing strange issues ==<br />
<br />
''Jaws has a FAQ on the desktop of her PC, with more useful hints, tricks, and solutions.''<br />
<br />
* Etching doesn't work<br />
** Lines are not closed. LaserCut usually warns you about this. Ctrl-a to select all, then Tools->Unite Lines (0.001 should be fine).<br />
** Two copies on top of each other. Copies on top of each other "cancel out" any etching. Delete one copy.<br />
** Test with Menu->Laser->Simulate<br />
<br />
* LaserCut will not download to the laser cutter<br />
** Check laser cutter isn't in a paused state<br />
** Restart LaserCut on the PC. (We've not had any usb issues nor needed to restart the laser since upgrading the PC summer 2014).<br />
<br />
* Laser cuts things out 2+ times<br />
** Check you don't have two copies loaded on top of each other<br />
** Check it's not set to cut multiple times in LaserCut (this setting is right of the Cut/Engrave/Speed/Power settings)<br />
** Check the laser front panel says "001" at the bottom. If not, press right arrow until the number is highlighted, then down to adjust back to 1, then press return.<br />
<br />
* Laser will only cut at the top right of the bed<br />
** Download again with Immediate Mode ticked<br />
** On laser panel, press return (I think?) then right twice (should select the bottom left option), then press return (I think).<br />
<br />
*You Hit Emergency stop<br />
** E-M button needs twisting to re-activate<br />
** If that fails - check the circuit breaker inside. From the back of the machine, you want to open the lower flap on the left side, which should be unlocked. Near to the back, there is a breaker board. Flip the flippy bit.<br />
<br />
== Material Stock ==<br />
For the stock we hold, please see the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Stock|Laser cutter stock]] page.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the Laser Cutter is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Laser Cutter Users''')<br />
* Clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth or Swarfega wipes<br />
* Clean any debris off laser bed and surround using soft brush<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)<br />
* Clean the laser lens with IPA and cotton buds<br />
* Oil the 3 runners with 3-in-one light oil <br />
* Thoroughly clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth<br />
* Check the water level in the cooling tank<br />
* Clean and remove debris from the machine base and catchment drawer<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)<br />
* Check the water is clean in the cooling tank (i.e. no contamination/organic build up)<br />
* Check filter unit for filter renewal<br />
* Oil the 4 rise and fall lead screws with 3-in-one light oil<br />
* Check mirrors and clean with a disposable sachet lens cleaner cloth (only if needed, mirror coatings are delicate)<br />
* Work through mirror alignment procedure to check alignment of mirrors<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
''For full log, see laser cutter wall sheet''<br />
<br />
For specific instructions and owner hints and tips see [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Owner_Tips|Owner Hints and Tricks]].<br />
<br />
'''Filter Changes'''<br />
* Jaws: 10 Feb to 22 June 2016, slightly under 5 months, and falling<br />
* Betsy: Freshest data currently in filter unit, gave up on 24th of June<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* 15th Jan 2013, Simon Ford: Laser cutter not powering up, with switching on via key gives no activity whatsoever. No recollection of it cutting out during a job (Alexis), so assume it just stopped turning on at some point. Filter box and power sockets confirmed OK. Diagnosis: RCD in right back panel of Laser reset to off, no obvious reason why. Switching back on brought everything back to life OK.<br />
* 22nd, Simon Ford; 29th, Nicholas - same again.<br />
<br />
* Apr 2014, Mat Cook and Diana Probst: after previous changing of chiller water (Roger et al) the pump was complaining of lack of flow. Changed water and filtered, removed small blockage from rubber hose on laser tube.<br />
<br />
* 16 Apr 2014, Toby and Diana: changed laser tube, refilled chiller. Laser cutter fully working.<br />
<br />
* 25 Oct 2014, Mat and Diana mended lid spring brace. Cutter working fully.<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* January 7, Full, Chris @ HPCLaser'''<br />
* January 14, Basic, Simon Ford <br />
* January 21, Full, Simon Ford (running better than new :)'''<br />
* ...various maintenance events happened...<br />
* April 5th, Full, Simon Ford<br />
* July 1st, Full, David Barham (realigned mirrors)<br />
* July 15th, installed chiller<br />
<br />
2014<br />
* 16 Apr 2014, mirror alignment and optics checked after re-installation of tube. All fine. Toby and Diana.<br />
* 19 May 2014, mirrors cleaned, earthing wire on lid tightened. Diana (and Mat's screwdriver)<br />
* 21 May 2014, cleaned lens with Mat Cook. Diana<br />
* 02 Jun 2014, removed and cleaned laser bed<br />
* 14 Sep 2014, cleaned lens and mirrors, realigned. Diana and Brian Starkey<br />
<br />
* 30 Jun 2014 Fitted microswitches in series with the magnetic "lid closed" detector. <br />
* ??? 2014 "Jaws" Second laser cutter acquired<br />
* ??? 2014 Fitted microswitch to Jaws<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* 3-in-one light oil <br />
* Cotton Buds<br />
* Lens cleaner sachets<br />
* Soft paint/cleaning brush<br />
* Thermometer for water tank<br />
* Hand held CO2 extinguisher<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser Product Page]<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=5&chapter=2 HPCLaser Technical Info]<br />
* [http://www.laserscript.co.uk/phpBB3/ Laserscript Forum]<br />
<br />
LaserCut 5.3<br />
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/35.html Homepage]<br />
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/LaserCut5.3%20Manual%20V1.6.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Installation ==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Laser_-_van.JPG<br />
File:Makespace-laser-install-02.JPG<br />
File:Laser_-_building_2.JPG<br />
File:Laser_-_building.JPG<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Purchase ==<br />
<br />
Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£6865.00+vat = £8238.00)<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser engraving and cutting machine, 600mm by 900mm 60W] (£5250.00+vat)<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34 Laser Fume Filter] (£1250.00+vat)<br />
* Delivery (£190+vat)<br />
* Installation/Training (£175+vat)<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* The laser tube (guess every 6-12 months)<br />
* The filter (guess every 3-6 months)<br />
* The optics (guess every 6-12 months)<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3 60 watt C02 laser tube] (£275.00+vat)<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=12 50 mm Focus Meniscus Lens] (£75.00+vat)<br />
* Estimate for Call Out (£200.00)</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Laser_CutterEquipment/Laser Cutter2017-04-09T09:58:41Z<p>Pinski1: /* Power and Speed Settings */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Laser Cutter<br />
<br />
[[File:Makespace-laser-cutter.JPG|thumb|460px|right|Our LS6090 PRO Laser Cutter]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have two LS 6090 PRO Laser Cutters. Each has a working area of 900mm by 600mm, and is powered by a 60w CO2 Water Cooled Laser Tube that can engrave and cut through materials such as wood, plastic, card, leather, fabrics, up to about 10-15mm thick (note, it can not cut metal). The laser cut is approximately 0.15mm wide, and a job can take a few seconds through to tens of minutes depending on material thickness and design complexity. <br />
<br />
We have dedicated PCs running LaserCut 5.3 software to import, prepare and download jobs to the Laser Cutter. It can import various formats, with DXF being the most commonly used, so various software packages can be used to create your designs.<br />
<br />
Here are some examples of laser jobs we've run (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Laser-cut-focus-tool.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-front-panels.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-lizards.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-m-and-s.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-model-building.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-ply-m.JPG<br />
File:Laser_output_-_makespace_arrow.JPG<br />
File:Laser_box.jpg<br />
File:Croc-small.jpg<br />
File:LaserCutter_Jobs_1.jpg<br />
File:LaserCutterGallery_20130328.jpg<br />
File:LasercutSettlers.jpg<br />
File:Wolfstock1.jpg<br />
File:Mug-holder.jpg<br />
File:2013-10-21 20.10.06.jpg<br />
File:Indy jigster.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the Laser Cutter =<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a great way to easily produce accurate and complex 2D forms in various materials, and can be designed for with limited experience in various drawing or CAD applications. At the same time, it is an expensive tool with real risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. '''You must only use the laser cutter if you have been trained, and if you are ever in any doubt about something, please ask for assistance.'''<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the laser cutter, organising maintenance, responding to technical issues and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the Laser Cutter are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]<br />
* [[User:DianaProbst|Diana Probst]]<br />
* Owners who are a little less current, but may still be able to help:<br />
** [[User:Simon|Simon Ford]]<br />
** [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]<br />
** [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are those who have volunteered to teach others to use the laser cutter and to promote good working practice. The current Trainers for the Laser Cutter are:<br />
<br />
* Brian Starkey<br />
* [[User:stevancw|Stevan Wing]]<br />
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]<br />
* [[User:robv|Rob Voisey]]<br />
* Miguel Morin<br />
<br />
* Currently slightly less frequent trainers are:<br />
** Martin de Selincourt<br />
** [[User:Simon|Simon Ford]]<br />
** [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]<br />
** [[User:Nickcadsoftuk|Nick Johnson]]<br />
** [[User:Tmonca|Toby Moncaster]]<br />
<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the laser cutter, please use the forum page:<br />
* [http://makespace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=45 Laser Cutter Log]<br />
<br />
For the old mailing list thread see here:<br />
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/Tmce2iKVzD8/discussion Log : Laser Cutter]<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the laser cutter and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Laser Cutter Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training|Laser Cutter Training]]<br />
<br />
== Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the laser cutter are:<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE LASER CUTTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
* '''KNOW WHAT TO DO IF A FIRE BREAKS OUT'''<br />
* '''NEVER CUT MATERIALS THAT YOU DON'T KNOW ARE SAFE'''<br />
<br />
As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''FIRE (under normal operation)''' - Cutting at the wrong speed or the wrong power can result in the material igniting<br />
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur<br />
* Small flashes of flame that don't hang around for a fraction of a second are acceptable, but any more is rare and not acceptable<br />
* If a fire does take, this is the process you should follow (from minor to major):<br />
** Press "pause" (the same button you started the job with) - This will turn the laser off so no more heat enters, and assuming the flame goes out, you can press "start" for the job to continue where it left off<br />
** Open the lid - With the job paused, you can open the lid to blow out the flame. Again, it is possible to re-close the lid and continue where you left off<br />
** Move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics; alternatively send the laser to home/datum), and smother with a spare sheet of material or blow out<br />
** Use the workshop CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame<br />
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at <br />
<br />
'''FIRE (abnormal operation)''' - If the head gets stuck or something else goes wrong, ignition could happen much more suddenly or intensely<br />
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur<br />
* If the head gets trapped (e.g. tomb-stoning of a piece, mechanical failure) or any other problem occurs that causes or could cause fire, this is the process you should follow:<br />
** Hit the emergency stop<br />
** Open the lid and move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics)<br />
** Blow out, smother with a spare sheet of material, or use the CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame as appropriate<br />
* Ensure a Maintainer looks at the machine before it is brought back in to action if it is not obvious what went wrong and all is ok<br />
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at <br />
<br />
'''FUMES''' - The laser cutting process will release different smoke and fumes depending on the material.<br />
* Never cut PVC or a material you are not sure is safe. When PVC is heated it releases chlorine gas, this mixes with the moisture in the air and the result is hydrochloric acid which is toxic to humans and corrosive to machines. <br />
* Ensure the filter is on and the cutter lid stays closed for a while after a job to allow the fumes to clear. <br />
* If you are feeling strange, think the fume build up is too much, or for any other reason you are unsure, stop the job.<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the cutter can be moved by the front panel menu or programs in the machines memory. <br />
* Be careful when working inside the cutting area or with the lid open not to trap hands, hair, clothing or anything else. <br />
* Always check the machine for unexpected items that may have fallen in before closing the lid. <br />
* Do not attempt to climb into the machine!<br />
<br />
'''LASER BURNS/LIGHT''' - A 60W laser can do real damage. <br />
* The laser should be safe within the confines of the machine, and cut-off automatically when the lid is open (although this should not be relied upon). The top window is safe to look through during a job, but do not attempt to interfere with these windows or the laser or in any way invent some way to look at the laser.<br />
* Do not tamper with the laser cutter, or any interlocks. All side panels of the laser should always be closed and locked whilst the machine is plugged in. <br />
* Do not put metal in the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
== Can I cut it? ==<br />
<br />
If it's not on this list, the answer is "NO YOU CAN'T CUT IT AT MAKESPACE". Even if other people say it's ok. Bear in mind that we can't ventilate externally like other people can.<br />
<br />
If it's something that isn't covered here, do ask on the forums and we'll look into it :)<br />
<br />
*Woody things<br />
** Wood: yes! (be careful of fire)<br />
** Plywood: yes if it is "laser ply". Normal plywood has non-laser compatible glue<br />
** MDF: no. Clogs up our filters and smells bad.<br />
** LaserMDF: no. It produces perhaps 50% the gunk of MDF but still too much.<br />
** Cork: yes, but it with a badly charred edge, and won't cut very deeply --- try cutting from the back of your sheet and using the cut to guide a craft knife / scalpel to make a neat cut through to the front.<br />
<br />
*Plasticy things<br />
** Acrylic / Perspex: yes!<br />
** PVC/Vinyl: absolutely not. Produces chlorine.<br />
** Silicone: we tried it with very limited success. A mm or two perhaps, anything else chars and doesn't cut.<br />
** White Delrin/Acetal: yes with great care. Make sure filters running well. Don't open lid too quickly. Check for fumes and fire.<br />
** Black Delrin/Acetal: no. contains carbon black which can be toxic.<br />
** Teflon: no (it is toxic)<br />
** Nylon: no (consult an owner)<br />
** Polythene/polyethylene: no (consult an owner)<br />
** Lexan/Polycarbonate: no (consult an owner)<br />
** Polypropylene: yes just. You must clean the bed. It will cut up to about 2mm. It's not a great quality cut, but just about doable. Fire risk.<br />
** GPPS / Polystyrene / HIPS in thin solid sheet form: maybe. ask owner to help. NO FOAM (it's highly flammable)<br />
<br />
*Papery things<br />
** Card/Paper: yes! (be careful of fire)<br />
** Tissue: yes if super super really careful (be REALLY careful of fire, have emergency procedure in place before you start)<br />
<br />
*Metally things<br />
** Metal of any thickness doesn't cut. The surface can be engraved with a paint application. LMM6000 Surmark/Thermark has been tested and is suggested for use, but expensive. The owners suggest a speed of 800 and maximum power.<br />
<br />
*Exotics<br />
** Fibre glass: no (unknown resin, glass particles)<br />
** Carbon Fibre: no<br />
** Slate: engravable for good effect<br />
<br />
Good list of info here: http://inventionstudio.gatech.edu/wiki/Laser_cutter (page disappeared, some time before 2016-12-12)<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the laser cutter, you must have been trained and have had your name added to the trained user list; these instructions are not a substitute for this training. See the training section to understand how you can become qualified to use the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Although not a requirement, it is recommended someone else trained is also present when using the laser cutter. Having two pairs of eyes helps avoid forgotten steps, allows for double checking, clarifications and discussions, and ensures a greater pool of experience is both present and being built up as the laser is used.<br />
<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
Give the machine a quick visual check. Make sure that there is nothing left on the bed, the water reservoir of the chiller looks normal, and that the equipment has no obvious damage or signs of being out-of-action. If the bed looks like it has residue on it, give it a wipe with IPA and a cloth. <br />
<br />
Turn on primary switch on the trunking marked 'Laser'. The air filter system to the right of the laser cutter should start as should the air pump and the chiller. It should power up, make a decent amount of noise, and the lights should indicate the filter is in good condition (i.e. no need for replacement).<br />
<br />
Make sure the lid is closed. Turn on the laser using the key on the right hand side. The inspection lamp should come on, a satisfying hum start up, and the cutter go into doing its self-checks.<br />
<br />
Before doing any job, the laser should be left to warm up for 4-5 mins. While the machine warms up, power on the adjacent PC and start the LaserCut application from the desktop. During this time the water temperature shown on the chiller should drop from ambient temperature to the usual setting of 18C.<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
The PC software has an import facility ('''file > import''') which seems to be happy taking AutoCAD 2004 DXF files and other formats. The workspace of the laser bed is represented as the workarea in the LaserCut software. If the import doesn't do what you want size-wise, you can select the whole image and then use the 'size' command from the drop down menu to set the dimension you want. Clicking on the three dots ... symbol will adjust the other axis in the same proportion (keeping the aspect ratio fixed). Selecting the 'centre on bed' option will locate your imported drawing on the centre of the machine's cutting bed.<br />
<br />
'''Assign Settings to Colours'''<br />
<br />
Each part of your drawing that is assigned a different colour can have a different cut action assigned. Each colour will appear on the menu on the right hand side of the screen with numbers related to power and speed of the laser which will be used for the colour. <br />
<br />
The main options are to Cut (line) or Engrave (raster fill). A marking on the material is a Cut. For each material and cutting depth required, a corresponding speed and power must be entered. The handbook provided with the machine gives suggested values for various materials but these should be considered as a starting point for a test. See the '''Power and Speed Settings''' section for our guidelines and experiences for these settings.<br />
<br />
'''Download to the Cutter'''<br />
<br />
Your drawing will feature a blue dot which represents the starting point of the laser; this is by default on the top right corner. In general, you will want to use "immediate" mode, which means this point represents wherever the laser is positioned when you start the job. You can also run the job in absolute mode by unchecking the box, making the job use absolute positioning on the workspace. <br />
<br />
To download, select Download and Download Current; the download option will by default call the file on the laser cutter 'LASER'.<br />
<br />
'''Set the Focus'''<br />
<br />
Before each job, the focus needs to be checked and set by adjusting the height of the bed, and thus the work piece, from the lens. The critical dimension here is 41mm and several gauges made of perspex will be left around the machine. This gauge needs to be a fit between the top surface of the material you intend to cut and the white plastic 'flap' on the lens piece. The height of the table is adjusted using the UP and DOWN buttons. Failure to set the distance correctly will result in an out of focus laser and much bigger (but lower powered) cut line. Always ensure there is clearance between the material and laser head before the head moves. <br />
<br />
'''Aligning and Testing the Job'''<br />
<br />
The cutter's menu will show the most recent downloaded file highlighted. Pressing the 'test' button will make the head travel along the square maximum extends of the cuts. This shows you that you have the material in the right place, and you have enough of it! You can do this repeatedly, moving the work piece by hand or the laser head using the arrow keys (after hitting ESC), until you are confident you have things where you want them.<br />
<br />
'''Cut the Job'''<br />
<br />
When happy with the location of the material, close the lid and press 'start' to start the cutter. Watch the head and at least at first be prepared to press the 'stop' button immediately if you find you are burning massive holes in your work piece! This goes back to doing some tests on a sample of your material and making sure you are happy with the cut speeds and power you have selected. You should stay near the cutter at all times and be prepared to pause it or stop it in the event of fire. <br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE CUTTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
The end of the job is signified by a beep. Waiting a few moments for the exhaust pump to clear any remaining smoke is a good idea, especially with wood, and will limit the build up of smells in the rest of the workshop. Remove your work piece, ensuring that all parts are cleared from the bed of the machine.<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
The cutter is turned off using the key switch, then the air filtering system with the green rocker switch. Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe state for the next user. <br />
<br />
'''Clean the bed of debris using the soft brush, then wipe down the bed using IPA and a cloth.'''<br />
<br />
If you have been cutting particularly 'dirty' materials, most notable MDF and Ply which leave a sticky residue then you will need to use the course side of one of the oven pads and lots of 'elbow grease'. Residue on the bed can impact the next persons' job so please make the effort to clean up and leave the cutter as you would wish to find it.<br />
<br />
Go away excited by what you can make and come back with lots more drawings!<br />
<br />
== Power and Speed Settings ==<br />
<br />
In due time we will try to build up a large sample stock of materials and record the values which work best. Here are the sample material tests we have so far:<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Laser-schmoo-3mm-acrylic.JPG|3mm Acrylic<br />
File:Laser-schmoo-10mm-acrylic.JPG|10mm Acrylic<br />
File:Laser-schmoo-9mm-mdf.JPG|9mm MDF (note: do not cut MDF - see above!)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Settings to get you started:<br />
*3mm Acrylic: Speed 12, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*5mm Acrylic: Speed 6, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*Acrylic shallow cut: Speed 30, power 50, corner power 50<br />
*Etching acrylic: Speed 400, Power 50, Spacing 0.05<br />
<br />
To make your own material test, a test grid can be downloaded here: [[Media:Test grid.zip]]<br />
<br />
*3mm Delrin: Speed 10, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*5mm Delrin: Speed 4, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
<br />
== Tips & Tricks ==<br />
<br />
* If the laser cutter's user interface does not seem to respond/do what you want, hit "ESC" to return to 'normal mode'.<br />
* The opaque white acrylic needs slightly stronger settings for surface cuts as they are not as visible as in the transparent acrylic (i.e., for similar effect you need a deeper cut). Otherwise seems to cut equivalently to transparent acrylics.<br />
* If you want a tight fit of pieces or very accurate sizing, keep in mind that the laser beam has a width of just over 0.1 mm (maybe 0.11 or 0.12 mm). So all exterior cut lines should be offset by 0.05 mm; you can do this very easily in the LaserCutter Software with the "Offset" tool (units are in mm, so enter '0.05' and select 'Outer').<br />
* The DXF file format stores values only (not values and units). The internal units in the LaserCutter are in mm. If you set your document's units to mm in the exporting CAD system it should work fine, but generally it is a good idea to have a piece of geometry of known length, e.g. a line 100mm long, or a box of known size around your design. This makes adjusting the scaling a lot easier.<br />
* If you want to export a DXF from Inkscape (which is a great, free vector drawing package), then make sure you do "Object to path" from the Path menu for the whole object and then during the export stage, untick both options for type of export. Choose mm as your unit.<br />
* There's now a page to help with Inkscape and our laser at [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Inkscape]]<br />
* If the jog buttons (arrow keys moving the laser head around) are only moving the head in small single steps rather than moving it continuously, make sure that the jog step size is set to 0.0mm in the Jog Settings section of the menu.<br />
<br />
=== Material Usage ===<br />
You want to use as little material as possible to save money, we want you to use as little material as possible to reduce re-stocking burden and wastage.<br />
There's a neat tool you can use for packing SVG files into small spaces, find it here: http://svgnest.com/<br />
<br />
== Fixing up a job that went wrong ==<br />
<br />
If you messed up a job and, for example, some cut lines weren't cut, you might try to run the job again after recolouring all of the lines except the ones that didn't cut. You can then deselect those lines for output in the Cut/Engrave window on the top right of the Lasercut Interface, and this will keep your positioning.<br />
<br />
If your head has moved, you can try setting some lines to power 1, which should not cut anything, but allows you to see where the head is travelling.<br />
<br />
== Fixing strange issues ==<br />
<br />
''Jaws has a FAQ on the desktop of her PC, with more useful hints, tricks, and solutions.''<br />
<br />
* Etching doesn't work<br />
** Lines are not closed. LaserCut usually warns you about this. Ctrl-a to select all, then Tools->Unite Lines (0.001 should be fine).<br />
** Two copies on top of each other. Copies on top of each other "cancel out" any etching. Delete one copy.<br />
** Test with Menu->Laser->Simulate<br />
<br />
* LaserCut will not download to the laser cutter<br />
** Check laser cutter isn't in a paused state<br />
** Restart LaserCut on the PC. (We've not had any usb issues nor needed to restart the laser since upgrading the PC summer 2014).<br />
<br />
* Laser cuts things out 2+ times<br />
** Check you don't have two copies loaded on top of each other<br />
** Check it's not set to cut multiple times in LaserCut (this setting is right of the Cut/Engrave/Speed/Power settings)<br />
** Check the laser front panel says "001" at the bottom. If not, press right arrow until the number is highlighted, then down to adjust back to 1, then press return.<br />
<br />
* Laser will only cut at the top right of the bed<br />
** Download again with Immediate Mode ticked<br />
** On laser panel, press return (I think?) then right twice (should select the bottom left option), then press return (I think).<br />
<br />
*You Hit Emergency stop<br />
** E-M button needs twisting to re-activate<br />
** If that fails - check the circuit breaker inside. From the back of the machine, you want to open the lower flap on the left side, which should be unlocked. Near to the back, there is a breaker board. Flip the flippy bit.<br />
<br />
== Material Stock ==<br />
For the stock we hold, please see the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Stock|Laser cutter stock]] page.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the Laser Cutter is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Laser Cutter Users''')<br />
* Clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth or Swarfega wipes<br />
* Clean any debris off laser bed and surround using soft brush<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)<br />
* Clean the laser lens with IPA and cotton buds<br />
* Oil the 3 runners with 3-in-one light oil <br />
* Thoroughly clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth<br />
* Check the water level in the cooling tank<br />
* Clean and remove debris from the machine base and catchment drawer<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)<br />
* Check the water is clean in the cooling tank (i.e. no contamination/organic build up)<br />
* Check filter unit for filter renewal<br />
* Oil the 4 rise and fall lead screws with 3-in-one light oil<br />
* Check mirrors and clean with a disposable sachet lens cleaner cloth (only if needed, mirror coatings are delicate)<br />
* Work through mirror alignment procedure to check alignment of mirrors<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
''For full log, see laser cutter wall sheet''<br />
<br />
For specific instructions and owner hints and tips see [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Owner_Tips|Owner Hints and Tricks]].<br />
<br />
'''Filter Changes'''<br />
* Jaws: 10 Feb to 22 June 2016, slightly under 5 months, and falling<br />
* Betsy: Freshest data currently in filter unit, gave up on 24th of June<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* 15th Jan 2013, Simon Ford: Laser cutter not powering up, with switching on via key gives no activity whatsoever. No recollection of it cutting out during a job (Alexis), so assume it just stopped turning on at some point. Filter box and power sockets confirmed OK. Diagnosis: RCD in right back panel of Laser reset to off, no obvious reason why. Switching back on brought everything back to life OK.<br />
* 22nd, Simon Ford; 29th, Nicholas - same again.<br />
<br />
* Apr 2014, Mat Cook and Diana Probst: after previous changing of chiller water (Roger et al) the pump was complaining of lack of flow. Changed water and filtered, removed small blockage from rubber hose on laser tube.<br />
<br />
* 16 Apr 2014, Toby and Diana: changed laser tube, refilled chiller. Laser cutter fully working.<br />
<br />
* 25 Oct 2014, Mat and Diana mended lid spring brace. Cutter working fully.<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* January 7, Full, Chris @ HPCLaser'''<br />
* January 14, Basic, Simon Ford <br />
* January 21, Full, Simon Ford (running better than new :)'''<br />
* ...various maintenance events happened...<br />
* April 5th, Full, Simon Ford<br />
* July 1st, Full, David Barham (realigned mirrors)<br />
* July 15th, installed chiller<br />
<br />
2014<br />
* 16 Apr 2014, mirror alignment and optics checked after re-installation of tube. All fine. Toby and Diana.<br />
* 19 May 2014, mirrors cleaned, earthing wire on lid tightened. Diana (and Mat's screwdriver)<br />
* 21 May 2014, cleaned lens with Mat Cook. Diana<br />
* 02 Jun 2014, removed and cleaned laser bed<br />
* 14 Sep 2014, cleaned lens and mirrors, realigned. Diana and Brian Starkey<br />
<br />
* 30 Jun 2014 Fitted microswitches in series with the magnetic "lid closed" detector. <br />
* ??? 2014 "Jaws" Second laser cutter acquired<br />
* ??? 2014 Fitted microswitch to Jaws<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* 3-in-one light oil <br />
* Cotton Buds<br />
* Lens cleaner sachets<br />
* Soft paint/cleaning brush<br />
* Thermometer for water tank<br />
* Hand held CO2 extinguisher<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser Product Page]<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=5&chapter=2 HPCLaser Technical Info]<br />
* [http://www.laserscript.co.uk/phpBB3/ Laserscript Forum]<br />
<br />
LaserCut 5.3<br />
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/35.html Homepage]<br />
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/LaserCut5.3%20Manual%20V1.6.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
== Installation ==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Laser_-_van.JPG<br />
File:Makespace-laser-install-02.JPG<br />
File:Laser_-_building_2.JPG<br />
File:Laser_-_building.JPG<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Purchase ==<br />
<br />
Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£6865.00+vat = £8238.00)<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser engraving and cutting machine, 600mm by 900mm 60W] (£5250.00+vat)<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34 Laser Fume Filter] (£1250.00+vat)<br />
* Delivery (£190+vat)<br />
* Installation/Training (£175+vat)<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* The laser tube (guess every 6-12 months)<br />
* The filter (guess every 3-6 months)<br />
* The optics (guess every 6-12 months)<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3 60 watt C02 laser tube] (£275.00+vat)<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=12 50 mm Focus Meniscus Lens] (£75.00+vat)<br />
* Estimate for Call Out (£200.00)</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Talk:Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/T-962A_Reflow_OvenTalk:Equipment/Electronics Workbenches/T-962A Reflow Oven2017-02-09T20:12:04Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>Okay ish setting s for 125micron mylar:<br />
<br />
400mm/s<br />
<br />
42%<br />
<br />
0.1mm over scan<br />
<br />
rotate stencil 45&deg; - cutting at 0&deg; or 90&deg; blows out the webs between pads.<br />
<br />
Try reducing the cut, still some webs blew through.<br />
<br />
<br />
ToDo seperate page for stencils/SMD HowTo<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 22:40, 4 August 2015 (BST)<br />
<br />
<br />
Using a ULP in eagle to export top and botom cream layers as poly-lines in a DXF.<br />
<br />
script: https://github.com/SWITCHSCIENCE/ssci-eagle-public/blob/master/cream-dxf.ulp<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 18:37, 5 August 2015 (BST)<br />
<br />
CUSF's myarl stencils are cut with:<br />
<br />
500mm/s<br />
<br />
50%<br />
<br />
0.05mm over scan<br />
<br />
and rotate stencil 45&deg;<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 23:41, 5 August 2015 (BST)<br />
<br />
The parts list for the add on/upgrade PCB is: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3638084/ThermocoupleParts-Sorted.xls</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/SuppliersSuppliers2016-08-11T14:57:07Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>Places to buy things<br />
<br />
Self populated<br />
<br />
=Electronics=<br />
See [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches]]<br />
*[http://uk.farnell.com/ Farnell]<br />
*[http://cpc.farnell.com/ CPC]<br />
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/ RS Components]<br />
*[http://www.rapidonline.com/ Rapid Electronics]<br />
*[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/ Cool Components]<br />
*[http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ HobbyTronics]<br />
*[http://www.hobbyking.com/ HobbyKing]<br />
*[http://proto-pic.co.uk/ Proto-Pic]<br />
**Reseller of Sparkfun & Adafruit.<br />
*[http://skpang.co.uk/ SKPang]<br />
*[http://www.technobotsonline.com/ Technobots]<br />
*[http://www.phenoptix.com/ Phenoptix]<br />
*[http://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronic]<br />
*[http://www.maplin.co.uk/ Maplin]<br />
*[http://www.active-robots.com/ Active-Robots]<br />
*[http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/ Gimson Robotics]<br />
*Ragworm<br />
<br />
==Non-EU==<br />
NOTE: These shops will charge a lot for postage, Customs and VAT.<br />
*[http://www.newark.com/ Newark]<br />
*[http://www.digikey.co.uk/ Digikey]<br />
*[http://sparkfun.com/ Sparkfun]<br />
*[http://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit]<br />
*[http://www.tindie.com/ Tindie]<br />
*OSHPark<br />
<br />
=Materials=<br />
<br />
==Metals==<br />
*[http://www.beltingonline.com/ Belting Online]<br />
*[http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/ Bearing Boys]<br />
*[http://simplybearings.co.uk/ Simply Bearings]<br />
*[http://www.bearingstation.co.uk/ Bearing Station]<br />
*[http://budgetbearings.co.uk/ Budget Bearings]<br />
*[http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ KJN]<br />
** "Highly recommended" - Mat C<br />
*[http://www.motedis.co.uk/ Motedis]<br />
**If you want to ask them anything, speak to Kris at kb@motedis.co.uk<br />
*[http://uk.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]<br />
**Call for best results<br />
*Igus<br />
**Difficult to buy from<br />
*[http://www.metallin.co.uk/shop/ Metallin]<br />
*[http://www.worldofcnc.com/ World of CNC]<br />
*[http://metals4u.co.uk Metals4U]<br />
** Good selection, happy to do small quantities. Delivery is fast. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ Westfield Fasteners]<br />
** Excellent for bolts, machine screws, nuts etc. Really good turnaround, prices based on amount you buy but with an excellent interface to make this clear. Limited range of things, but if you're looking for things to attach one thing to another thing they're great. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html Mackay], our local Cambridge hardware shop stock and cut metals --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:56, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==3D Printer==<br />
*[http://www.2engineers.com/ 2Engineers]<br />
**Do ceramic hotends and low weight, high torque motors<br />
*[http://ooznest.co.uk/ Ooz Nest]<br />
* Do 3D printer parts and V-Slot<br />
<br />
==Wood==<br />
* [http://www.ridgeons.co.uk/ Ridgeons] (Builders' Merchants) have two branches in Cambridge, at least the northern one (Nuffield Road) sells timber, I've not tried the other one<br />
*[http://www.slecuk.com/ Slec Ltd] Recommended for laser plywood.<br />
<br />
==Plastic==<br />
*[http://www.edplastics.co.uk/ Engineering & Design Plastics]<br />
** Used these guys to buy heavy acrylic extrusions, they also do bending and custom manufacture.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.ema-models.co.uk/ EMA Models]<br />
** Range of architectural modelling stuff, in particular some unusual extrusion and cast acrylics.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.technologysupplies.co.uk/ Technology Supplies Ltd.]<br />
** I bought the food-grade plastic I used for chocolate moulds from these folk. Very helpful and friendly bunch.--[[User:Kim SJ|Kim SJ]] 20:38, 17 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronic] Recommended for laser acrylic.<br />
<br />
==Composites==<br />
*[http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/ Easy Composites]<br />
** Excellent range of carbon fibre cloth, rods, sheets, tubes etc. Expensive (but no more than anywhere else) but happy to supply small quantities and excellent shipping speed. Use when you really need to save weight in your projects! --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:55, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Jewlery/Glass==<br />
See [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench#Consumables_and_Stock_.28to_pay_by_use.29 | Fine metalwork Bench Consumables and Stock]].<br />
*[http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/ Warm Glass]<br />
** I have an account with these guys and, due to buying the kiln on it, we get a 5% discount. I'm happy to put orders in as long as we combine them to over 75 pounds for shipping. If you do this you don't get the discount, but the money we save goes to common stock needed for the glassworking station such as bead release. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://off-mandrel.com/ Off Mandrel]<br />
** Used for the few things Warm Glass doesn't sell.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Art and Crafts==<br />
*[http://www.tiranti.co.uk/ Tiranti] - suppliers of sculpture, mouldmaking and casting supplies - physical store at Warren Street --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:46, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.origami-shop.com Origami Shop] - Origami papers --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:54, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Optical==<br />
*It's a bit obscure, but should you be after a beam splitter (half mirrored mirror type) [http://www.scientificmirrors.com/ Scientific Mirrors] were very helpful<br />
<br />
=Misc=<br />
*[http://www.ebay.co.uk/ eBay]<br />
*[http://amazon.co.uk/ Amazon]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/ AliExpress]<br />
*[http://www.alibaba.com/ Alibaba]<br />
*[http://www.buyspares.co.uk/ Buys Spares]<br />
* David Neats curated list of UK suppliers for [http://davidneat.wordpress.com/suppliers-2/suppliers/ model making] --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:46, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
==Hand==<br />
==Powered==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===CNC Model Mill===<br />
See [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill#Material_.26_Tooling_Suppliers | CNC Model Mill Material & Tooling Suppliers]].<br />
<br />
=Services=<br />
This page is for companies providing services for things that we can't do in-house.<br />
<br />
*[http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/Acrow_Galvanizing.aspx Acrow Galvanizing] are the nearest hot-dip galvanizers AFAIK. (I don't think we're planning to get a `kettle' of hot zinc in Makespace itself.)<br />
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/ Mackay]<br />
*[http://www.facebook.com/WELDDONEcustomfabrication WeldDone]<br />
** Local TIG welder with 7+ years of experience, fully recommended. --[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] 14:53, 2 April 2014 (BST)<br />
*[http://www.mfg.com/ MFG]<br />
**Chinese manufacturing portal, not used yet.<br />
*[http://www.h2oprofiling.co.uk/ H20 Profiling] Reasonably local and helpful water-jet cutting, no minimum order (often £100) --[[User:JonnyPW|Jonny Waite]]<br />
*[https://k-cut.co.uk/ K Cut] Very popular for combat robotics, stock Hardox in various grades and Aluminium 5083. Extremely fast turnaround --[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 15:57, 11 August 2016 (BST)</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Laser_Cutter_StockEquipment/Laser Cutter Stock2016-06-02T00:14:05Z<p>Pinski1: /* Suppliers */</p>
<hr />
<div>== General Stock ==<br />
<br />
We keep sheets of stock in the standard size 600 x 400 mm as follows:<br />
<br />
* 3mm acrylic, opaque coloured, translucent coloured, clear<br />
* 5mm acrylic, translucent coloured<br />
* 3mm poplar plywood<br />
* 6mm poplar plywood<br />
<br />
In addition, we usually have mirror acrylic and occasionally other fancy surfaces suitable for etching.<br />
<br />
These colours can be paid for through the honesty box, which we do not make a profit on.<br />
<br />
You are very welcome to buy and use your own stock.<br />
<br />
== Suppliers ==<br />
<br />
* [https://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronik] for Perspex<br />
* [http://www.slecuk.com/ Slec UK] for Birch Laser Plywood</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Laser_Cutter_StockEquipment/Laser Cutter Stock2016-06-02T00:13:54Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>== General Stock ==<br />
<br />
We keep sheets of stock in the standard size 600 x 400 mm as follows:<br />
<br />
* 3mm acrylic, opaque coloured, translucent coloured, clear<br />
* 5mm acrylic, translucent coloured<br />
* 3mm poplar plywood<br />
* 6mm poplar plywood<br />
<br />
In addition, we usually have mirror acrylic and occasionally other fancy surfaces suitable for etching.<br />
<br />
These colours can be paid for through the honesty box, which we do not make a profit on.<br />
<br />
You are very welcome to buy and use your own stock.<br />
<br />
== Suppliers ==<br />
<br />
* [https://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronik] for Perspex<br />
* [http://www.slecuk.com/] Slec UK for Birch Laser Plywood</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/SuppliersSuppliers2016-02-17T21:01:23Z<p>Pinski1: /* 3D Printer */</p>
<hr />
<div>Places to buy things<br />
<br />
Self populated<br />
<br />
=Electronics=<br />
See [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches]]<br />
*[http://uk.farnell.com/ Farnell]<br />
*[http://cpc.farnell.com/ CPC]<br />
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/ RS Components]<br />
*[http://www.rapidonline.com/ Rapid Electronics]<br />
*[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/ Cool Components]<br />
*[http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ HobbyTronics]<br />
*[http://www.hobbyking.com/ HobbyKing]<br />
*[http://proto-pic.co.uk/ Proto-Pic]<br />
**Reseller of Sparkfun & Adafruit.<br />
*[http://skpang.co.uk/ SKPang]<br />
*[http://www.technobotsonline.com/ Technobots]<br />
*[http://www.phenoptix.com/ Phenoptix]<br />
*[http://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronic]<br />
*[http://www.maplin.co.uk/ Maplin]<br />
*[http://www.active-robots.com/ Active-Robots]<br />
*[http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/ Gimson Robotics]<br />
*Ragworm<br />
<br />
==Non-EU==<br />
NOTE: These shops will charge a lot for postage, Customs and VAT.<br />
*[http://www.newark.com/ Newark]<br />
*[http://www.digikey.co.uk/ Digikey]<br />
*[http://sparkfun.com/ Sparkfun]<br />
*[http://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit]<br />
*[http://www.tindie.com/ Tindie]<br />
*OSHPark<br />
<br />
=Materials=<br />
<br />
==Metals==<br />
*[http://www.beltingonline.com/ Belting Online]<br />
*[http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/ Bearing Boys]<br />
*[http://simplybearings.co.uk/ Simply Bearings]<br />
*[http://www.bearingstation.co.uk/ Bearing Station]<br />
*[http://budgetbearings.co.uk/ Budget Bearings]<br />
*[http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ KJN]<br />
** "Highly recommended" - Mat C<br />
*[http://www.motedis.co.uk/ Motedis]<br />
**If you want to ask them anything, speak to Kris at kb@motedis.co.uk<br />
*[http://uk.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]<br />
**Call for best results<br />
*Igus<br />
**Difficult to buy from<br />
*[http://www.metallin.co.uk/shop/ Metallin]<br />
*[http://www.worldofcnc.com/ World of CNC]<br />
*[http://metals4u.co.uk Metals4U]<br />
** Good selection, happy to do small quantities. Delivery is fast. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ Westfield Fasteners]<br />
** Excellent for bolts, machine screws, nuts etc. Really good turnaround, prices based on amount you buy but with an excellent interface to make this clear. Limited range of things, but if you're looking for things to attach one thing to another thing they're great. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html Mackay], our local Cambridge hardware shop stock and cut metals --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:56, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==3D Printer==<br />
*[http://www.2engineers.com/ 2Engineers]<br />
**Do ceramic hotends and low weight, high torque motors<br />
*[http://ooznest.co.uk/ Ooz Nest]<br />
* Do 3D printer parts and V-Slot<br />
<br />
==Wood==<br />
* [http://www.ridgeons.co.uk/ Ridgeons] (Builders' Merchants) have two branches in Cambridge, at least the northern one (Nuffield Road) sells timber, I've not tried the other one<br />
<br />
==Plastic==<br />
*[http://www.edplastics.co.uk/ Engineering & Design Plastics]<br />
** Used these guys to buy heavy acrylic extrusions, they also do bending and custom manufacture.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.ema-models.co.uk/ EMA Models]<br />
** Range of architectural modelling stuff, in particular some unusual extrusion and cast acrylics.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.technologysupplies.co.uk/ Technology Supplies Ltd.]<br />
** I bought the food-grade plastic I used for chocolate moulds from these folk. Very helpful and friendly bunch.--[[User:Kim SJ|Kim SJ]] 20:38, 17 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Composites==<br />
*[http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/ Easy Composites]<br />
** Excellent range of carbon fibre cloth, rods, sheets, tubes etc. Expensive (but no more than anywhere else) but happy to supply small quantities and excellent shipping speed. Use when you really need to save weight in your projects! --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:55, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Jewlery/Glass==<br />
See [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench#Consumables_and_Stock_.28to_pay_by_use.29 | Fine metalwork Bench Consumables and Stock]].<br />
*[http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/ Warm Glass]<br />
** I have an account with these guys and, due to buying the kiln on it, we get a 5% discount. I'm happy to put orders in as long as we combine them to over 75 pounds for shipping. If you do this you don't get the discount, but the money we save goes to common stock needed for the glassworking station such as bead release. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://off-mandrel.com/ Off Mandrel]<br />
** Used for the few things Warm Glass doesn't sell.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Art and Crafts==<br />
*[http://www.tiranti.co.uk/ Tiranti] - suppliers of sculpture, mouldmaking and casting supplies - physical store at Warren Street --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:46, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.origami-shop.com Origami Shop] - Origami papers --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:54, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Optical==<br />
*It's a bit obscure, but should you be after a beam splitter (half mirrored mirror type) [http://www.scientificmirrors.com/ Scientific Mirrors] were very helpful<br />
<br />
=Misc=<br />
*[http://www.ebay.co.uk/ eBay]<br />
*[http://amazon.co.uk/ Amazon]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/ AliExpress]<br />
*[http://www.alibaba.com/ Alibaba]<br />
*[http://www.buyspares.co.uk/ Buys Spares]<br />
* David Neats curated list of UK suppliers for [http://davidneat.wordpress.com/suppliers-2/suppliers/ model making] --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:46, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
==Hand==<br />
==Powered==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===CNC Model Mill===<br />
See [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill#Material_.26_Tooling_Suppliers | CNC Model Mill Material & Tooling Suppliers]].<br />
<br />
=Services=<br />
See [[Service_Suppliers]]<br />
This page is for companies providing services for things that we can't do in-house.<br />
<br />
*[http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/Acrow_Galvanizing.aspx Acrow Galvanizing] are the nearest hot-dip galvanizers AFAIK. (I don't think we're planning to get a `kettle' of hot zinc in Makespace itself.)<br />
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/ Mackay]<br />
*[http://www.facebook.com/WELDDONEcustomfabrication WeldDone]<br />
** Local TIG welder with 7+ years of experience, fully recommended. --[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] 14:53, 2 April 2014 (BST)<br />
*[http://www.mfg.com/ MFG]<br />
**Chinese manufacturing portal, not used yet.<br />
*[http://www.h2oprofiling.co.uk/ H20 Profiling] Reasonably local and helpful water-jet cutting, no minimum order (often £100) --[[User:JonnyPW|Jonny Waite]]</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/File:OV7649FSG_DS_(1.0).pdfFile:OV7649FSG DS (1.0).pdf2015-09-22T20:08:30Z<p>Pinski1: Datasheet for LT7649FSG-OV-STN camera evaluation module.</p>
<hr />
<div>Datasheet for LT7649FSG-OV-STN camera evaluation module.</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Talk:Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/T-962A_Reflow_OvenTalk:Equipment/Electronics Workbenches/T-962A Reflow Oven2015-08-05T22:41:29Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>Okay ish setting s for 125micron mylar:<br />
<br />
400mm/s<br />
<br />
42%<br />
<br />
0.1mm over scan<br />
<br />
rotate stencil 45&deg; - cutting at 0&deg; or 90&deg; blows out the webs between pads.<br />
<br />
Try reducing the cut, still some webs blew through.<br />
<br />
<br />
ToDo seperate page for stencils/SMD HowTo<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 22:40, 4 August 2015 (BST)<br />
<br />
<br />
Using a ULP in eagle to export top and botom cream layers as poly-lines in a DXF.<br />
<br />
script: https://github.com/SWITCHSCIENCE/ssci-eagle-public/blob/master/cream-dxf.ulp<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 18:37, 5 August 2015 (BST)<br />
<br />
CUSF's myarl stencils are cut with:<br />
<br />
500mm/s<br />
<br />
50%<br />
<br />
0.05mm over scan<br />
<br />
and rotate stencil 45&deg;<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 23:41, 5 August 2015 (BST)</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Talk:Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/T-962A_Reflow_OvenTalk:Equipment/Electronics Workbenches/T-962A Reflow Oven2015-08-05T17:37:55Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>Okay ish setting s for 125micron mylar:<br />
<br />
400mm/s<br />
<br />
42%<br />
<br />
rotate stencil 45&deg; - cutting at 0&deg; or 90&deg; blows out the webs between pads.<br />
<br />
Try reducing the cut, still some webs blew through.<br />
<br />
<br />
ToDo seperate page for stencils/SMD HowTo<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 22:40, 4 August 2015 (BST)<br />
<br />
<br />
Using a ULP in eagle to export top and botom cream layers as poly-lines in a DXF.<br />
<br />
script: https://github.com/SWITCHSCIENCE/ssci-eagle-public/blob/master/cream-dxf.ulp<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 18:37, 5 August 2015 (BST)</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Talk:Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/T-962A_Reflow_OvenTalk:Equipment/Electronics Workbenches/T-962A Reflow Oven2015-08-04T22:58:44Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>Okay ish setting s for 125micron mylar:<br />
<br />
400mm/s<br />
<br />
42%<br />
<br />
rotate stencil 45&deg; - cutting at 0&deg; or 90&deg; blows out the webs between pads.<br />
<br />
Try reducing the cut, still some webs blew through.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
ToDo seperate page for stencils/SMD HowTo<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 22:40, 4 August 2015 (BST)</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Talk:Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/T-962A_Reflow_OvenTalk:Equipment/Electronics Workbenches/T-962A Reflow Oven2015-08-04T21:40:26Z<p>Pinski1: Created page with "Okay ish setting s for 125micron mylar: 400mm/s 42% rotate stencil 45&deg; - cutting at 0&deg; or 90&deg; blows out the webs between pads. ToDo seperate page for stencils/SM..."</p>
<hr />
<div>Okay ish setting s for 125micron mylar:<br />
400mm/s<br />
42%<br />
rotate stencil 45&deg; - cutting at 0&deg; or 90&deg; blows out the webs between pads.<br />
<br />
<br />
ToDo seperate page for stencils/SMD HowTo<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 22:40, 4 August 2015 (BST)</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Oscilloscope_-_DS1104ZEquipment/Oscilloscope - DS1104Z2015-07-31T22:32:23Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{OrangeTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Oscilloscope - DS1104Z<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
A DS1104Z.<br />
<!-- http://gotroot.ca/rigol/riglol/ --><br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
Robert K.</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Electronics_WorkbenchesEquipment/Electronics Workbenches2015-07-13T22:29:13Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{GreenTool}}<br />
{{OrangeTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Electronics Workbenches<br />
<br />
Workbenches for electronics and precision work.<br />
<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Enthusiast Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* Hameg HM-203-5 20MHz analogue oscilloscope<br />
** [[File:HM203-6_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Black*Star Jupiter 500 0.1Hz-500kHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
* Philips PM6622 80MHz counter<br />
** [[File:PM6622_PM6624_PM6625_Manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
== Expert Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* BlackJack BK6000 Rework station (Class: Orange)<br />
** [[File:BlackJack_BK6000_Rework_Station_manual.pdf]]<br />
* Rigol DS1104Z 100MHZ Digital Oscilloscope<br />
** Info [http://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000Z/ds1104z/ here].<br />
* Philips PM 3217 50MHz analogue Oscilloscope (Class: Green)<br />
**[[File:Philips_PM3217_50MHz_Oscilloscope_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TG212 0.1Hz-2MHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth) (Class: Orange)<br />
** [[File:TG200_Series_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TF830 1.3GHz high resolution reciprocal measurement<br />
<br />
== Shared equipment ==<br />
* Soldering irons:<br />
** 2x Tenma AT60D soldering stations (up to 400C) (Class: Orange)<br />
* Bench power supplies (e.g. a mix of 5V, 12V, variable, and multi-rail PSUs) (Class: Orange)<br />
** Farnell AP20-80: up to 20V at up to 80A<br />
** Hameg HM7042-3 dual: each channel up to 32V at up to 2A<br />
** Tenma 72-8695 two channels each up to 32V at up to 3A, plus a single fixed 5V/2A channel<br />
* Logic analyser:<br />
** HP 16500A (status unknown: may not be operational but has probes pack)<br />
** Currently assumed dead.<br />
* Components and small tools<br />
** PCB holders or "helping hands"<br />
** Magnifying lamps<br />
** Side cutters<br />
** Multimeters<br />
** Wire<br />
** Selection of basic components (res, caps, v-reg, basic digital logic, basic IC's - 555,358, connectors, cable)<br />
** Inspection microscope (fixed 20x monocular, with 80mm clearance under the lens)<br />
* Reflow Oven<br />
** [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/ReflowOven|Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/ReflowOven]]<br />
== Supplies ==<br />
<br />
[[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/Supplies | Supplies]]<br />
<br />
== Wishlist ==<br />
<br />
===Need===<br />
* Soldering microscope with inbuilt illumination<br />
* PCB holders ('''not''' just "helping hands")<br />
* Abrasive pen<br />
* Heatsink tweezers<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* ESD handling equipment, eg. anti-static mats, wrist-strap, earth points, tester<br />
* URLs or PDF manuals for the equipment<br />
<br />
===Want===<br />
* Logic Analyser<br />
** Possibly a Saleae [http://www.saleae.com/logic16 Logic16]<br />
* A Reflow Oven<br />
** Probably a EuroCircuits [http://be.eurocircuits.com/shop/offtheshelf/product.aspx?ano=ec-reflow-mate EC-Reflow Mate]<br />
* Fridge for solder paste (and glues)<br />
* Solder paste for fridge :)<br />
<br />
===Would Be Nice===<br />
* USB microscope with monitor (not to be confused with a soldering/lab microscope!)<br />
* Spectrum Analyser<br />
* A PC<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
== Archive==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:1836058-40.jpg|[http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-8700/power-supply-bench-2x-32v-5a/dp/IN06096 Dual 32V, 5A Bench Power Supply]<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Bench Requirements (based on conversations with lots of people!)<br />
* Height: Standard workstation/stool height (~840mm) rather than desk/chair height - allows working standing or sitting on stools<br />
* Depth: Standard electronics workstation depth of ~900mm to allow for equipment at the back whilst still giving decent workspace<br />
* ESD - whilst some people don't care, other seem to care a lot, so assume antistatic worksurface<br />
* Structure - A long workbench surface along the wall of the main workshop, approximately 4m; Options:<br />
** Standard electronics workbenches (metal structure bench with drawers below left/right, back power strip at back, raised shelf)<br />
** Basic electronics workbences without storage below, cantilever or 4-post design<br />
** Worksurface (e.g. kitchen) fixed to wall with some drawer units as stands (e.g. ikea) <br />
* Other considerations:<br />
** Allow for a variable number of people to sit at it (i.e. bunch up, couple of people around same project)<br />
** Decent storage for all the basic tools, components<br />
** Some form of raised area for scopes/test equipment<br />
** Very sturdy - i.e. wont move if lent on, pushed against etc<br />
--></div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/User:Pinski1User:Pinski12015-03-25T19:45:24Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>Robert K.<br />
<br />
I'm an electronic engineer living in Cambridge since Jan 2014, I've been a member since then too.<br />
<br />
I've now left Cambridge and am no longer around Makespace.<br />
<br />
==Things I Can Help You With==<br />
*Electronics<br />
**Digital Design<br />
**Analogue Design<br />
*Firmware<br />
**8bit Microcontrollers<br />
**32bit Microcontrollers<br />
**FPGA or CPLD code in VHDL<br />
*3D Printers<br />
**Commisioning<br />
**Design of and design for<br />
<br />
==My Current Projects==<br />
*12kg Combat Robot<br />
*500g Combat Robot<br />
*Renovating a Makerbot Cupcake CNC<br />
*Prusa i3 new build<br />
<br />
==Possible Future Projects==<br />
*HyperSpeed 3D Printer<br />
*Electric GoKart<br />
*0Hz to 3GHz Software Defined Radio<br />
<br />
==Contact==<br />
pinski1-at-gmail.com</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Talk:Equipment/Laser_CutterTalk:Equipment/Laser Cutter2015-01-29T14:10:22Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Laser cutters used by other spaces ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Model !! Owner !! Cost !! Bed size !! URL<br />
|-<br />
| HPC LS3060 || London Hackspace || 3250 || 290x570 || http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=39 <br />
|-<br />
| HPC LS3020 || Nottinghack || 1125 || 300x210 || http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=40<br />
|-<br />
| Epilog Mini 24 40W || FabLab Manchester || (Estimated) 11450 || 300x600 || http://www.epiloglaser.co.uk/legend_mini24.htm<br />
|}<br />
<br />
For comparison, a 1200x900 laser cutter from Shenhui (who appear to be the internet's Chinese supplier of choice) comes in at US$4000 + US$250 seafreight + 4.5% import duty + delivery (or collection) from Felixstowe - that's roughly £2775 ex VAT.<br />
<br />
Replacement tubes cost £195 ex VAT for a 40W HPC tube (LS3020/LS3060) and £350 ex VAT for an 80W (LS1290). They are rated at 1000 hours, although this is heavily dependent on careful calibration of the machine and will be much lower if it's misconfigured.<br />
<br />
== Questions and Requirements ==<br />
<br />
* Cambridge Science Centre<br />
** 600 x 900mm would allow use for exhibit units<br />
* Thickness of materials?<br />
** 25mm acrylic, 10-12mm ply (depending on ply)<br />
* Do we need a cooler unit?<br />
** No. More needed for continuous use (we expect regular but intermittent use)<br />
* What are the power supply requirements?<br />
** 240 V 50hz<br />
<br />
How much power does the laser and the fume filter, require? I have looked on their website and it's not clear, I also had a looked on the Bofa Website for information about the fume filter, and there are too many models to be able select the correct model. When you next contact the supplier. Can you ask the following.<br />
<br />
What size supply will each item require?<br />
* TBC (nothing out of the ordinary)<br />
<br />
I did read somewhere on the site, that the laser and the fume filter would be interlocked, is this correct? If so, this would suggest that only single supply would be required for both items.<br />
and one more question, <br />
* The pumps are powered from the back of the laser cutter, but the filter is a separate supply<br />
<br />
Does the laser need a assigned PC?<br />
* Yes<br />
<br />
* [User:Barhamd] I'm wanting to cut thin 1mm and .5mm ABS or perspex for model buildings. Would like something that can cut and half-cut a fine ~.25mm line. Not so concerned about massive size. Is this some kind of work something that could be done on a large cutter or do we need a smaller unit too?<br />
** It states "Resetting position accuracy: 0.015mm"<br />
* How often do the lasers need replacing?<br />
** It depends on lots of things like care, use level, how much degradation is acceptable, luck - "could be 1 year or 5 years"; we will assume every year for now<br />
<br />
What (if anything) can this do on metals?<br />
* Possibly mark using a paste, but certainly can't cut<br />
<br />
What sort of line thickness does it give?<br />
* Laser width is approx 0.15mm<br />
<br />
The bare minimum for me would be something capable of cutting an A3 sheet, which probably means 600x450mm. A 1200x900mm[1] machine from Laserscript comes in at about £6.5K; a used one went on eBay recently for something like £4.5K. The factory gate price for a similar unit from Shenhui, who are a well-regarded Chinese manufacturer, is $4K -sea-freight would come in at $250, and import duty appears to be 4.5%.<br />
<br />
I (Dave from the science centre) would be really keen to be able to cut at least A1 on it (840x594mm) As this is the biggest module we are using at the moment.<br />
<br />
==Powering On Sequence==<br />
I wanted to make turning Betsy on & off (turn on Laser 1 switch, turn on laser 2 switch, turn key switch) the same as Jaws (turn key switch and relax). Betsy will trip it's internal circuit breaker very easily. This is because Betsey has a DZ47LE-32 C10 RCD breaker while Jaws has a DZ47LE-32 C32 RCD breaker. The difference between C10 and C32 is the time it takes to trip when the current limit is exceeded, the C10 will trip much faster e.g. on current spikes when the laser, cooler and extractor are turned on.<br />
<br />
We could replace the C10 breaker in Betsy for with a C32 breaker from Chine ([http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DZ47LE-C32-1P-N-32A-earth-leakage-circuit-breaker-household-circuit-protection-miniature-circuit-breaker/715731_815293718.html here]) for $13.50 however I'm not sure if it would affect anything else.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] ([[User talk:Pinski1|talk]]) 14:10, 29 January 2015 (UTC)</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/EquipmentEquipment2015-01-13T14:29:04Z<p>Pinski1: /* Craft area */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]<br />
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]<br />
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]<br />
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]<br />
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]<br />
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]<br />
<br />
The equipment you can find in Makespace.<br />
<br />
== Using our Equipment ==<br />
<br />
There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.<br />
<br />
[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.<br />
<br />
Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.<br />
<br />
== The Workshop ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe - Myford]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Sherline lathe|Lathe - Sherline]] (This is not commissioned and at the moment is unavailable for use)<br />
* Metalwork Benches<br />
* [[Equipment/Sherline mill|Mill - Sherline ]] (This is not commissioned and at the moment is unavailable for use)<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]<br />
* Woodwork Benches<br />
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]] (This is not commissioned and at the moment is unavailable for use)<br />
<br />
== The Space ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill|PCB Mill]]<br />
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]<br />
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
* General Tools<br />
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]<br />
* [[Equipment/Plotter|HP 750C A0 Plotter]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]<br />
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]<br />
<br />
== Craft area ==<br />
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
* large table for cutting or working at<br />
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]<br />
* PC with CAD software, scanner and link to Vinyl cutter<br />
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]<br />
<br />
== Proposals and Notes ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]<br />
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]<br />
<br />
== Related ==<br />
* [[OwnersPage|List of owners and their duties]]<br />
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].<br />
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.<br />
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.<br />
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/EZcube_Light_TentEquipment/EZcube Light Tent2015-01-13T14:28:21Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment]] / EZcube Light Tent<br />
<br />
=EZcube Light Tent=<br />
<br />
A light tent & 2 500k desktop lights bought from TableTop Studio LLC.<br />
<br />
==Owners==<br />
None at the moment.<br />
<br />
==Training==<br />
<br />
See fact sheets, booklet and DVD before using.<br />
<br />
==Warnings==<br />
*Bulbs are fragile & expensive please be gentle with them.<br />
*Light tent interior needs to stay clean, please ensure hands are not dirty.<br />
<br />
==Contents==<br />
<br />
2x Reflectors & stands<br />
<br />
2x 500k 30W TrumpetTop light bulbs<br />
<br />
1x EZcube light tent<br />
<br />
1x "How to get the most for your EZcube" DVD<br />
<br />
1x EZcube User's Guide booklet<br />
<br />
1x Quick Set-Up Guide sheet<br />
<br />
1x Assembly sheet<br />
<br />
<br />
==Useful Links==<br />
http://www.tabletopstudio.co.uk/<br />
<br />
http://www.ezcube.com/step-by-step.html</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/EZcube_Light_TentEquipment/EZcube Light Tent2015-01-13T14:24:45Z<p>Pinski1: Initial check in</p>
<hr />
<div>A light tent & 2 500k desktop lights bought from TableTop Studio LLC.<br />
<br />
==Contents==<br />
<br />
2x Reflectors & stands<br />
<br />
2x 500k 30W TrumpetTop light bulbs<br />
<br />
1x EZcube light tent<br />
<br />
1x "How to get the most for your EZcube" DVD<br />
<br />
1x EZcube User's Guide booklet<br />
<br />
1x Quick Set-Up Guide sheet<br />
<br />
1x Assembly sheet<br />
<br />
<br />
==Useful Links==<br />
http://www.tabletopstudio.co.uk/<br />
<br />
http://www.ezcube.com/step-by-step.html</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/TShirtsGalleryTShirtsGallery2014-12-07T18:30:46Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:IMG 6405cr.jpg|Made during TShirt demo<br />
File:MarkT_cr.jpg|MarkT. The T stands for Transistor.<br />
File:MatC_in_TShirt.jpg|Mat C. "I &hearts;<sub>prefer cambridge to</sub> NY"<br />
<!-- Add each file on a new line here --><br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br><br />
To add to this gallery:<br />
* Upload file: http://wiki.makespace.org/Special:Upload<br />
* Edit this page to include the picture</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MatC_in_TShirt.jpgFile:MatC in TShirt.jpg2014-12-07T18:28:26Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/SuppliersSuppliers2014-11-22T11:22:09Z<p>Pinski1: /* Electronics */</p>
<hr />
<div>Places to buy things<br />
<br />
Self populated<br />
<br />
=Electronics=<br />
See [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches]]<br />
*[http://uk.farnell.com/ Farnell]<br />
*[http://cpc.farnell.com/ CPC]<br />
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/ RS Components]<br />
*[http://www.rapidonline.com/ Rapid Electronics]<br />
*[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/ Cool Components]<br />
*[http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ HobbyTronics]<br />
*[http://www.hobbyking.com/ HobbyKing]<br />
*[http://proto-pic.co.uk/ Proto-Pic]<br />
**Reseller of Sparkfun & Adafruit.<br />
*[http://skpang.co.uk/ SKPang]<br />
*[http://www.technobotsonline.com/ Technobots]<br />
*[http://www.phenoptix.com/ Phenoptix]<br />
*[http://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronic]<br />
*[http://www.maplin.co.uk/ Maplin]<br />
*[http://www.active-robots.com/ Active-Robots]<br />
*[http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/ Gimson Robotics]<br />
*Ragworm<br />
<br />
==Non-EU==<br />
NOTE: These shops will charge a lot for postage, Customs and VAT.<br />
*[http://www.newark.com/ Newark]<br />
*[http://www.digikey.co.uk/ Digikey]<br />
*[http://sparkfun.com/ Sparkfun]<br />
*[http://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit]<br />
*[http://www.tindie.com/ Tindie]<br />
*OSHPark<br />
<br />
=Materials=<br />
<br />
==Metals==<br />
*[http://www.beltingonline.com/ Belting Online]<br />
*[http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/ Bearing Boys]<br />
*[http://simplybearings.co.uk/ Simply Bearings]<br />
*[http://www.bearingstation.co.uk/ Bearing Station]<br />
*[http://budgetbearings.co.uk/ Budget Bearings]<br />
*[http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ KJN]<br />
** "Highly recommended" - Mat C<br />
*[http://www.motedis.co.uk/ Motedis]<br />
**If you want to ask them anything, speak to Kris at kb@motedis.co.uk<br />
*[http://uk.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]<br />
**Call for best results<br />
*Igus<br />
**Difficult to buy from<br />
*[http://www.metallin.co.uk/shop/ Metallin]<br />
*[http://www.worldofcnc.com/ World of CNC]<br />
*[http://metals4u.co.uk Metals4U]<br />
** Good selection, happy to do small quantities. Delivery is fast. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ Westfield Fasteners]<br />
** Excellent for bolts, machine screws, nuts etc. Really good turnaround, prices based on amount you buy but with an excellent interface to make this clear. Limited range of things, but if you're looking for things to attach one thing to another thing they're great. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html Mackay], our local Cambridge hardware shop stock and cut metals --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:56, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==3D Printer==<br />
*[http://www.2engineers.com/ 2Engineers]<br />
**Do ceramic hotends and low weight, high torque motors<br />
<br />
==Wood==<br />
* [http://www.ridgeons.co.uk/ Ridgeons] (Builders' Merchants) have two branches in Cambridge, at least the northern one (Nuffield Road) sells timber, I've not tried the other one<br />
<br />
==Plastic==<br />
*[http://www.edplastics.co.uk/ Engineering & Design Plastics]<br />
** Used these guys to buy heavy acrylic extrusions, they also do bending and custom manufacture.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.ema-models.co.uk/ EMA Models]<br />
** Range of architectural modelling stuff, in particular some unusual extrusion and cast acrylics.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.technologysupplies.co.uk/ Technology Supplies Ltd.]<br />
** I bought the food-grade plastic I used for chocolate moulds from these folk. Very helpful and friendly bunch.--[[User:Kim SJ|Kim SJ]] 20:38, 17 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Composites==<br />
*[http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/ Easy Composites]<br />
** Excellent range of carbon fibre cloth, rods, sheets, tubes etc. Expensive (but no more than anywhere else) but happy to supply small quantities and excellent shipping speed. Use when you really need to save weight in your projects! --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:55, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Jewlery/Glass==<br />
See [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench#Consumables_and_Stock_.28to_pay_by_use.29 | Fine metalwork Bench Consumables and Stock]].<br />
*[http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/ Warm Glass]<br />
** I have an account with these guys and, due to buying the kiln on it, we get a 5% discount. I'm happy to put orders in as long as we combine them to over 75 pounds for shipping. If you do this you don't get the discount, but the money we save goes to common stock needed for the glassworking station such as bead release. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://off-mandrel.com/ Off Mandrel]<br />
** Used for the few things Warm Glass doesn't sell.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Art and Crafts==<br />
*[http://www.tiranti.co.uk/ Tiranti] - suppliers of sculpture, mouldmaking and casting supplies - physical store at Warren Street --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:46, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
*[http://www.origami-shop.com Origami Shop] - Origami papers --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:54, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
==Optical==<br />
*It's a bit obscure, but should you be after a beam splitter (half mirrored mirror type) [http://www.scientificmirrors.com/ Scientific Mirrors] were very helpful<br />
<br />
=Misc=<br />
*[http://www.ebay.co.uk/ eBay]<br />
*[http://amazon.co.uk/ Amazon]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/ AliExpress]<br />
*[http://www.alibaba.com/ Alibaba]<br />
*[http://www.buyspares.co.uk/ Buys Spares]<br />
* David Neats curated list of UK suppliers for [http://davidneat.wordpress.com/suppliers-2/suppliers/ model making] --[[User:Ennui2342|Ennui2342]] 09:46, 24 March 2014 (UTC)<br />
<br />
=Tools=<br />
==Hand==<br />
==Powered==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===CNC Model Mill===<br />
See [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill#Material_.26_Tooling_Suppliers | CNC Model Mill Material & Tooling Suppliers]].<br />
<br />
=Services=<br />
See [[Service_Suppliers]]<br />
This page is for companies providing services for things that we can't do in-house.<br />
<br />
*[http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/Acrow_Galvanizing.aspx Acrow Galvanizing] are the nearest hot-dip galvanizers AFAIK. (I don't think we're planning to get a `kettle' of hot zinc in Makespace itself.)<br />
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/ Mackay]<br />
*[http://www.facebook.com/WELDDONEcustomfabrication WeldDone]<br />
** Local TIG welder with 7+ years of experience, fully recommended. --[[User:Pinski1|Pinski1]] 14:53, 2 April 2014 (BST)<br />
*[http://www.mfg.com/ MFG]<br />
**Chinese manufacturing portal, not used yet.</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25Equipment/CanoScan LiDE 252014-10-30T23:48:56Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>We have a CanoScan LiDE 25 A4/US Letter scanner which lives next to the paper printers.<br />
<br />
[[File:CanoScan_LiDE_25.gif]]<br />
<br />
The scanner is pretty old but only requires a USB cable, no external power supply.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Driver=<br />
The drivers are available from [http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/windows_7/scanners/canoscan_series/canoscan_lide25?selectedName=DriversAndSoftware here].</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/File:CanoScan_LiDE_25.gifFile:CanoScan LiDE 25.gif2014-10-30T23:48:26Z<p>Pinski1: Manufacturer image of the scanner.</p>
<hr />
<div>Manufacturer image of the scanner.</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25Equipment/CanoScan LiDE 252014-10-30T23:46:39Z<p>Pinski1: Created page with "We have a CanoScan LiDE 25 A4/US Letter scanner which lives next to the paper printers. The scanner is pretty old but only requires a USB cable, no external power supply. =..."</p>
<hr />
<div>We have a CanoScan LiDE 25 A4/US Letter scanner which lives next to the paper printers.<br />
<br />
The scanner is pretty old but only requires a USB cable, no external power supply.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Driver=<br />
The drivers are available from [http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/windows_7/scanners/canoscan_series/canoscan_lide25?selectedName=DriversAndSoftware here].</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/EquipmentEquipment2014-10-30T23:45:01Z<p>Pinski1: /* The Space */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]<br />
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]<br />
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]<br />
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]<br />
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]<br />
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]<br />
<br />
The equipment you can find in Makespace.<br />
<br />
== Using our Equipment ==<br />
<br />
There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.<br />
<br />
[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.<br />
<br />
Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.<br />
<br />
== The Workshop ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe - Myford]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Sherline lathe|Lathe - Sherline]]<br />
* Metalwork Benches<br />
* [[Equipment/Sherline mill|Mill - Sherline ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]<br />
* Woodwork Benches<br />
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]]<br />
<br />
== The Space ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill|PCB Mill]]<br />
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]<br />
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
* General Tools<br />
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]<br />
* [[Equipment/Plotter|HP 750C A0 Plotter]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]<br />
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]<br />
<br />
== Proposals and Notes ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]<br />
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]<br />
<br />
== Related ==<br />
* [[OwnersPage|List of owners and their duties]]<br />
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].<br />
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.<br />
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.<br />
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/WarcoMill/TrainingEquipment/WarcoMill/Training2014-10-29T23:06:18Z<p>Pinski1: /* Trained Users */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE MILL CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
Training and induction will start with a tour of the tool introducing all its parts. The following points will be covered.<br />
<br />
* Keep hands well away from the spinning parts.<br />
* Make sure there is no loose clothing or hair that can be caught in rotating parts.<br />
* Take care to mount the work securely.<br />
* Swarf has sharp edges so clean it away with a brush.<br />
* Some parts of the machine are very heavy. It is also possible to work on very heavy parts. Loosing control of heavy objects can cause serious injury. Plan work carefully. Using lifting aids if necessary. Ask for assistance if not totally confident of your ability to control the part at all times.<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
* Roger Smith<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
* Mat Cook<br />
<br />
== Trained Users ==<br />
<br />
Training is an initial guide to the mill and safety briefing, followed by a number of individual lessons interspersed with practicing what has been learned.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! User!! Trained level !! Mill access<br />
|-<br />
| Diana Probst|| Intro || Use while supervised<br />
|-<br />
| Stevan Wing || Intro || Use while supervised<br />
|-<br />
| Robert Karpinski || Intro || Use while supervised<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Trained operators ==<br />
<br />
* 1</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Electronics_WorkbenchesEquipment/Electronics Workbenches2014-10-23T13:48:11Z<p>Pinski1: /* Supplies */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Electronics Workbenches<br />
<br />
Workbenches for electronics and precision work.<br />
<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Enthusiast Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* Hameg HM-203-5 20MHz analogue oscilloscope<br />
** [[File:HM203-6_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Black*Star Jupiter 500 0.1Hz-500kHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
* Philips PM6622 80MHz counter<br />
** [[File:PM6622_PM6624_PM6625_Manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
== Expert Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* BlackJack BK6000 Rework station<br />
** [[File:BlackJack_BK6000_Rework_Station_manual.pdf]]<br />
* Rigol DS1104Z 100MHZ Digital Oscilloscope<br />
** Info [http://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000Z/ds1104z/ here].<br />
* Philips PM 3217 50MHz analogue Oscilloscope<br />
**[[File:Philips_PM3217_50MHz_Oscilloscope_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TG212 0.1Hz-2MHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
** [[File:TG200_Series_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TF830 1.3GHz high resolution reciprocal measurement<br />
<br />
== Shared equipment ==<br />
* Soldering irons:<br />
** 2x Tenma AT60D soldering stations (up to 400C)<br />
* Bench power supplies (e.g. a mix of 5V, 12V, variable, and multi-rail PSUs)<br />
** Farnell AP20-80: up to 20V at up to 80A<br />
** Hameg HM7042-3 dual: each channel up to 32V at up to 2A<br />
** Tenma 72-8695 two channels each up to 32V at up to 3A, plus a single fixed 5V/2A channel<br />
* Logic analyser:<br />
** HP 16500A (status unknown: may not be operational but has probes pack)<br />
** Currently assumed dead.<br />
* Components and small tools<br />
** PCB holders or "helping hands"<br />
** Magnifying lamps<br />
** Side cutters<br />
** Multimeters<br />
** Wire<br />
** Selection of basic components (res, caps, v-reg, basic digital logic, basic IC's - 555,358, connectors, cable)<br />
** Inspection microscope (fixed 20x monocular, with 80mm clearance under the lens)<br />
<br />
== Supplies ==<br />
<br />
[[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/Supplies | Supplies]]<br />
<br />
== Wishlist ==<br />
<br />
===Need===<br />
* Abrasive pen<br />
* Heatsink tweezers<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* ESD handling equipment, eg. anti-static mats, wrist-strap, earth points, tester<br />
* URLs or PDF manuals for the equipment<br />
<br />
<br />
===Want===<br />
* Logic Analyser<br />
** Possibly a Saleae [http://www.saleae.com/logic16 Logic16]<br />
* A Reflow Oven<br />
** Probably a EuroCircuits [http://be.eurocircuits.com/shop/offtheshelf/product.aspx?ano=ec-reflow-mate EC-Reflow Mate]<br />
<br />
===Would Be Nice===<br />
* USB microscope with monitor<br />
* Spectrum Analyser<br />
* A PC<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
== Archive==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:1836058-40.jpg|[http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-8700/power-supply-bench-2x-32v-5a/dp/IN06096 Dual 32V, 5A Bench Power Supply]<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Bench Requirements (based on conversations with lots of people!)<br />
* Height: Standard workstation/stool height (~840mm) rather than desk/chair height - allows working standing or sitting on stools<br />
* Depth: Standard electronics workstation depth of ~900mm to allow for equipment at the back whilst still giving decent workspace<br />
* ESD - whilst some people don't care, other seem to care a lot, so assume antistatic worksurface<br />
* Structure - A long workbench surface along the wall of the main workshop, approximately 4m; Options:<br />
** Standard electronics workbenches (metal structure bench with drawers below left/right, back power strip at back, raised shelf)<br />
** Basic electronics workbences without storage below, cantilever or 4-post design<br />
** Worksurface (e.g. kitchen) fixed to wall with some drawer units as stands (e.g. ikea) <br />
* Other considerations:<br />
** Allow for a variable number of people to sit at it (i.e. bunch up, couple of people around same project)<br />
** Decent storage for all the basic tools, components<br />
** Some form of raised area for scopes/test equipment<br />
** Very sturdy - i.e. wont move if lent on, pushed against etc<br />
--></div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Electronics_WorkbenchesEquipment/Electronics Workbenches2014-10-23T13:48:02Z<p>Pinski1: /* Supplies */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Electronics Workbenches<br />
<br />
Workbenches for electronics and precision work.<br />
<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Enthusiast Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* Hameg HM-203-5 20MHz analogue oscilloscope<br />
** [[File:HM203-6_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Black*Star Jupiter 500 0.1Hz-500kHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
* Philips PM6622 80MHz counter<br />
** [[File:PM6622_PM6624_PM6625_Manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
== Expert Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* BlackJack BK6000 Rework station<br />
** [[File:BlackJack_BK6000_Rework_Station_manual.pdf]]<br />
* Rigol DS1104Z 100MHZ Digital Oscilloscope<br />
** Info [http://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000Z/ds1104z/ here].<br />
* Philips PM 3217 50MHz analogue Oscilloscope<br />
**[[File:Philips_PM3217_50MHz_Oscilloscope_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TG212 0.1Hz-2MHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
** [[File:TG200_Series_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TF830 1.3GHz high resolution reciprocal measurement<br />
<br />
== Shared equipment ==<br />
* Soldering irons:<br />
** 2x Tenma AT60D soldering stations (up to 400C)<br />
* Bench power supplies (e.g. a mix of 5V, 12V, variable, and multi-rail PSUs)<br />
** Farnell AP20-80: up to 20V at up to 80A<br />
** Hameg HM7042-3 dual: each channel up to 32V at up to 2A<br />
** Tenma 72-8695 two channels each up to 32V at up to 3A, plus a single fixed 5V/2A channel<br />
* Logic analyser:<br />
** HP 16500A (status unknown: may not be operational but has probes pack)<br />
** Currently assumed dead.<br />
* Components and small tools<br />
** PCB holders or "helping hands"<br />
** Magnifying lamps<br />
** Side cutters<br />
** Multimeters<br />
** Wire<br />
** Selection of basic components (res, caps, v-reg, basic digital logic, basic IC's - 555,358, connectors, cable)<br />
** Inspection microscope (fixed 20x monocular, with 80mm clearance under the lens)<br />
<br />
== Supplies ==<br />
<br />
[[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/Supplies | ]]<br />
<br />
== Wishlist ==<br />
<br />
===Need===<br />
* Abrasive pen<br />
* Heatsink tweezers<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* ESD handling equipment, eg. anti-static mats, wrist-strap, earth points, tester<br />
* URLs or PDF manuals for the equipment<br />
<br />
<br />
===Want===<br />
* Logic Analyser<br />
** Possibly a Saleae [http://www.saleae.com/logic16 Logic16]<br />
* A Reflow Oven<br />
** Probably a EuroCircuits [http://be.eurocircuits.com/shop/offtheshelf/product.aspx?ano=ec-reflow-mate EC-Reflow Mate]<br />
<br />
===Would Be Nice===<br />
* USB microscope with monitor<br />
* Spectrum Analyser<br />
* A PC<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
== Archive==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:1836058-40.jpg|[http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-8700/power-supply-bench-2x-32v-5a/dp/IN06096 Dual 32V, 5A Bench Power Supply]<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Bench Requirements (based on conversations with lots of people!)<br />
* Height: Standard workstation/stool height (~840mm) rather than desk/chair height - allows working standing or sitting on stools<br />
* Depth: Standard electronics workstation depth of ~900mm to allow for equipment at the back whilst still giving decent workspace<br />
* ESD - whilst some people don't care, other seem to care a lot, so assume antistatic worksurface<br />
* Structure - A long workbench surface along the wall of the main workshop, approximately 4m; Options:<br />
** Standard electronics workbenches (metal structure bench with drawers below left/right, back power strip at back, raised shelf)<br />
** Basic electronics workbences without storage below, cantilever or 4-post design<br />
** Worksurface (e.g. kitchen) fixed to wall with some drawer units as stands (e.g. ikea) <br />
* Other considerations:<br />
** Allow for a variable number of people to sit at it (i.e. bunch up, couple of people around same project)<br />
** Decent storage for all the basic tools, components<br />
** Some form of raised area for scopes/test equipment<br />
** Very sturdy - i.e. wont move if lent on, pushed against etc<br />
--></div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Electronics_WorkbenchesEquipment/Electronics Workbenches2014-10-23T13:47:00Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Electronics Workbenches<br />
<br />
Workbenches for electronics and precision work.<br />
<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Enthusiast Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* Hameg HM-203-5 20MHz analogue oscilloscope<br />
** [[File:HM203-6_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Black*Star Jupiter 500 0.1Hz-500kHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
* Philips PM6622 80MHz counter<br />
** [[File:PM6622_PM6624_PM6625_Manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
== Expert Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* BlackJack BK6000 Rework station<br />
** [[File:BlackJack_BK6000_Rework_Station_manual.pdf]]<br />
* Rigol DS1104Z 100MHZ Digital Oscilloscope<br />
** Info [http://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000Z/ds1104z/ here].<br />
* Philips PM 3217 50MHz analogue Oscilloscope<br />
**[[File:Philips_PM3217_50MHz_Oscilloscope_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TG212 0.1Hz-2MHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
** [[File:TG200_Series_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TF830 1.3GHz high resolution reciprocal measurement<br />
<br />
== Shared equipment ==<br />
* Soldering irons:<br />
** 2x Tenma AT60D soldering stations (up to 400C)<br />
* Bench power supplies (e.g. a mix of 5V, 12V, variable, and multi-rail PSUs)<br />
** Farnell AP20-80: up to 20V at up to 80A<br />
** Hameg HM7042-3 dual: each channel up to 32V at up to 2A<br />
** Tenma 72-8695 two channels each up to 32V at up to 3A, plus a single fixed 5V/2A channel<br />
* Logic analyser:<br />
** HP 16500A (status unknown: may not be operational but has probes pack)<br />
** Currently assumed dead.<br />
* Components and small tools<br />
** PCB holders or "helping hands"<br />
** Magnifying lamps<br />
** Side cutters<br />
** Multimeters<br />
** Wire<br />
** Selection of basic components (res, caps, v-reg, basic digital logic, basic IC's - 555,358, connectors, cable)<br />
** Inspection microscope (fixed 20x monocular, with 80mm clearance under the lens)<br />
<br />
== Supplies ==<br />
<br />
[[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches/Supplies Supplies]] <br />
== Wishlist ==<br />
<br />
===Need===<br />
* Abrasive pen<br />
* Heatsink tweezers<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* ESD handling equipment, eg. anti-static mats, wrist-strap, earth points, tester<br />
* URLs or PDF manuals for the equipment<br />
<br />
<br />
===Want===<br />
* Logic Analyser<br />
** Possibly a Saleae [http://www.saleae.com/logic16 Logic16]<br />
* A Reflow Oven<br />
** Probably a EuroCircuits [http://be.eurocircuits.com/shop/offtheshelf/product.aspx?ano=ec-reflow-mate EC-Reflow Mate]<br />
<br />
===Would Be Nice===<br />
* USB microscope with monitor<br />
* Spectrum Analyser<br />
* A PC<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
== Archive==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:1836058-40.jpg|[http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-8700/power-supply-bench-2x-32v-5a/dp/IN06096 Dual 32V, 5A Bench Power Supply]<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Bench Requirements (based on conversations with lots of people!)<br />
* Height: Standard workstation/stool height (~840mm) rather than desk/chair height - allows working standing or sitting on stools<br />
* Depth: Standard electronics workstation depth of ~900mm to allow for equipment at the back whilst still giving decent workspace<br />
* ESD - whilst some people don't care, other seem to care a lot, so assume antistatic worksurface<br />
* Structure - A long workbench surface along the wall of the main workshop, approximately 4m; Options:<br />
** Standard electronics workbenches (metal structure bench with drawers below left/right, back power strip at back, raised shelf)<br />
** Basic electronics workbences without storage below, cantilever or 4-post design<br />
** Worksurface (e.g. kitchen) fixed to wall with some drawer units as stands (e.g. ikea) <br />
* Other considerations:<br />
** Allow for a variable number of people to sit at it (i.e. bunch up, couple of people around same project)<br />
** Decent storage for all the basic tools, components<br />
** Some form of raised area for scopes/test equipment<br />
** Very sturdy - i.e. wont move if lent on, pushed against etc<br />
--></div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Electronics_WorkbenchesEquipment/Electronics Workbenches2014-10-23T13:41:59Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Electronics Workbenches<br />
<br />
Workbenches for electronics and precision work.<br />
<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Enthusiast Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* Hameg HM-203-5 20MHz analogue oscilloscope<br />
** [[File:HM203-6_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Black*Star Jupiter 500 0.1Hz-500kHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
* Philips PM6622 80MHz counter<br />
** [[File:PM6622_PM6624_PM6625_Manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
== Expert Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* BlackJack BK6000 Rework station<br />
** [[File:BlackJack_BK6000_Rework_Station_manual.pdf]]<br />
* Rigol DS1104Z 100MHZ Digital Oscilloscope<br />
** Info [http://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000Z/ds1104z/ here].<br />
* Philips PM 3217 50MHz analogue Oscilloscope<br />
**[[File:Philips_PM3217_50MHz_Oscilloscope_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TG212 0.1Hz-2MHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
** [[File:TG200_Series_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TF830 1.3GHz high resolution reciprocal measurement<br />
<br />
== Shared equipment ==<br />
* Soldering irons:<br />
** 2x Tenma AT60D soldering stations (up to 400C)<br />
* Bench power supplies (e.g. a mix of 5V, 12V, variable, and multi-rail PSUs)<br />
** Farnell AP20-80: up to 20V at up to 80A<br />
** Hameg HM7042-3 dual: each channel up to 32V at up to 2A<br />
** Tenma 72-8695 two channels each up to 32V at up to 3A, plus a single fixed 5V/2A channel<br />
* Logic analyser:<br />
** HP 16500A (status unknown: may not be operational but has probes pack)<br />
** Currently assumed dead.<br />
* Components and small tools<br />
** PCB holders or "helping hands"<br />
** Magnifying lamps<br />
** Side cutters<br />
** Multimeters<br />
** Wire<br />
** Selection of basic components (res, caps, v-reg, basic digital logic, basic IC's - 555,358, connectors, cable)<br />
** Inspection microscope (fixed 20x monocular, with 80mm clearance under the lens)<br />
<br />
== Wishlist ==<br />
<br />
===Need===<br />
* Abrasive pen<br />
* Heatsink tweezers<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* ESD handling equipment, eg. anti-static mats, wrist-strap, earth points, tester<br />
* URLs or PDF manuals for the equipment<br />
<br />
<br />
===Want===<br />
* Logic Analyser<br />
** Possibly a Saleae [http://www.saleae.com/logic16 Logic16]<br />
* A Reflow Oven<br />
** Probably a EuroCircuits [http://be.eurocircuits.com/shop/offtheshelf/product.aspx?ano=ec-reflow-mate EC-Reflow Mate]<br />
<br />
===Would Be Nice===<br />
* USB microscope with monitor<br />
* Spectrum Analyser<br />
* A PC<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
== Archive==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:1836058-40.jpg|[http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-8700/power-supply-bench-2x-32v-5a/dp/IN06096 Dual 32V, 5A Bench Power Supply]<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Bench Requirements (based on conversations with lots of people!)<br />
* Height: Standard workstation/stool height (~840mm) rather than desk/chair height - allows working standing or sitting on stools<br />
* Depth: Standard electronics workstation depth of ~900mm to allow for equipment at the back whilst still giving decent workspace<br />
* ESD - whilst some people don't care, other seem to care a lot, so assume antistatic worksurface<br />
* Structure - A long workbench surface along the wall of the main workshop, approximately 4m; Options:<br />
** Standard electronics workbenches (metal structure bench with drawers below left/right, back power strip at back, raised shelf)<br />
** Basic electronics workbences without storage below, cantilever or 4-post design<br />
** Worksurface (e.g. kitchen) fixed to wall with some drawer units as stands (e.g. ikea) <br />
* Other considerations:<br />
** Allow for a variable number of people to sit at it (i.e. bunch up, couple of people around same project)<br />
** Decent storage for all the basic tools, components<br />
** Some form of raised area for scopes/test equipment<br />
** Very sturdy - i.e. wont move if lent on, pushed against etc<br />
--></div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Electronics_WorkbenchesEquipment/Electronics Workbenches2014-10-23T13:40:18Z<p>Pinski1: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Electronics Workbenches<br />
<br />
Workbenches for electronics and precision work.<br />
<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Enthusiast Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* Hameg HM-203-5 20MHz analogue oscilloscope<br />
** [[File:HM203-6_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Black*Star Jupiter 500 0.1Hz-500kHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
* Philips PM6622 80MHz counter<br />
** [[File:PM6622_PM6624_PM6625_Manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
== Expert Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* BlackJack BK6000 Rework station<br />
** [[File:BlackJack_BK6000_Rework_Station_manual.pdf]]<br />
* Philips PM 3217 50MHz analogue Oscilloscope<br />
**[[File:Philips_PM3217_50MHz_Oscilloscope_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TG212 0.1Hz-2MHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
** [[File:TG200_Series_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TF830 1.3GHz high resolution reciprocal measurement<br />
<br />
== Shared equipment ==<br />
* Soldering irons:<br />
** 2x Tenma AT60D soldering stations (up to 400C)<br />
* Bench power supplies (e.g. a mix of 5V, 12V, variable, and multi-rail PSUs)<br />
** Farnell AP20-80: up to 20V at up to 80A<br />
** Hameg HM7042-3 dual: each channel up to 32V at up to 2A<br />
** Tenma 72-8695 two channels each up to 32V at up to 3A, plus a single fixed 5V/2A channel<br />
* Logic analyser:<br />
** HP 16500A (status unknown: may not be operational but has probes pack)<br />
** Currently assumed dead.<br />
* Components and small tools<br />
** PCB holders or "helping hands"<br />
** Magnifying lamps<br />
** Side cutters<br />
** Multimeters<br />
** Wire<br />
** Selection of basic components (res, caps, v-reg, basic digital logic, basic IC's - 555,358, connectors, cable)<br />
** Inspection microscope (fixed 20x monocular, with 80mm clearance under the lens)<br />
<br />
== Wishlist ==<br />
<br />
===Need===<br />
* Abrasive pen<br />
* Heatsink tweezers<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* ESD handling equipment, eg. anti-static mats, wrist-strap, earth points, tester<br />
* URLs or PDF manuals for the equipment<br />
<br />
<br />
===Want===<br />
* Logic Analyser<br />
** Possibly a Saleae [http://www.saleae.com/logic16 Logic16]<br />
* 100MHZ Digital Oscilloscope<br />
** Possibly a Rigol [http://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000Z/ds1104z/ DS1104Z], a 4 channel 100MHz scope<br />
** DONE!<br />
* A Reflow Oven<br />
** Probably a EuroCircuits [http://be.eurocircuits.com/shop/offtheshelf/product.aspx?ano=ec-reflow-mate EC-Reflow Mate]<br />
<br />
===Would Be Nice===<br />
* USB microscope with monitor<br />
* Spectrum Analyser<br />
* A PC<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
== Archive==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:1836058-40.jpg|[http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-8700/power-supply-bench-2x-32v-5a/dp/IN06096 Dual 32V, 5A Bench Power Supply]<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Bench Requirements (based on conversations with lots of people!)<br />
* Height: Standard workstation/stool height (~840mm) rather than desk/chair height - allows working standing or sitting on stools<br />
* Depth: Standard electronics workstation depth of ~900mm to allow for equipment at the back whilst still giving decent workspace<br />
* ESD - whilst some people don't care, other seem to care a lot, so assume antistatic worksurface<br />
* Structure - A long workbench surface along the wall of the main workshop, approximately 4m; Options:<br />
** Standard electronics workbenches (metal structure bench with drawers below left/right, back power strip at back, raised shelf)<br />
** Basic electronics workbences without storage below, cantilever or 4-post design<br />
** Worksurface (e.g. kitchen) fixed to wall with some drawer units as stands (e.g. ikea) <br />
* Other considerations:<br />
** Allow for a variable number of people to sit at it (i.e. bunch up, couple of people around same project)<br />
** Decent storage for all the basic tools, components<br />
** Some form of raised area for scopes/test equipment<br />
** Very sturdy - i.e. wont move if lent on, pushed against etc<br />
--></div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Electronics_WorkbenchesEquipment/Electronics Workbenches2014-10-23T13:36:56Z<p>Pinski1: /* Want */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Electronics Workbenches<br />
<br />
Workbenches for electronics and precision work.<br />
<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Enthusiast Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* Hameg HM-203-5 20MHz analogue oscilloscope<br />
** [[File:HM203-6_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Black*Star Jupiter 500 0.1Hz-500kHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
* Philips PM6622 80MHz counter<br />
** [[File:PM6622_PM6624_PM6625_Manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
== Expert Bench ==<br />
A 1800mm x 900mm ESD cantilever bench from [http://www.bigdug.co.uk/workshop-benches-c348/antistatic-workbenches-c721/antistatic-workbenches-capacity-300kgs-pp4582 here]<br />
<br />
=== Equipment ===<br />
* BlackJack BK6000 Rework station<br />
** [[File:BlackJack_BK6000_Rework_Station_manual.pdf]]<br />
* Philips PM 3217 50MHz analogue Oscilloscope<br />
**[[File:Philips_PM3217_50MHz_Oscilloscope_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TG212 0.1Hz-2MHz function generator (sine, square, sawtooth)<br />
** [[File:TG200_Series_Manual.pdf]]<br />
* Thurlby Thandar TF830 1.3GHz high resolution reciprocal measurement<br />
<br />
== Shared equipment ==<br />
* Soldering irons:<br />
** 2x Tenma AT60D soldering stations (up to 400C)<br />
* Bench power supplies (e.g. a mix of 5V, 12V, variable, and multi-rail PSUs)<br />
** Farnell AP20-80: up to 20V at up to 80A<br />
** Hameg HM7042-3 dual: each channel up to 32V at up to 2A<br />
** Tenma 72-8695 two channels each up to 32V at up to 3A, plus a single fixed 5V/2A channel<br />
* Logic analyser:<br />
** HP 16500A (status unknown: may not be operational but has probes pack)<br />
** Currently assumed dead.<br />
* Components and small tools<br />
** PCB holders or "helping hands"<br />
** Magnifying lamps<br />
** Side cutters<br />
** Multimeters<br />
** Wire<br />
** Selection of basic components (res, caps, v-reg, basic digital logic, basic IC's - 555,358, connectors, cable)<br />
** Inspection microscope (fixed 20x monocular, with 80mm clearance under the lens)<br />
<br />
== Notes ==<br />
It would be nice if someone could dig out URLs for manuals for the above, if available, and link to them from their listing lines.<br />
<br />
== Wishlist ==<br />
<br />
===Need===<br />
* Abrasive pen<br />
* Heatsink tweezers<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* ESD handling equipment, eg. anti-static mats, wrist-strap, earth points, tester<br />
<br />
===Want===<br />
* Logic Analyser<br />
** Possibly a Saleae [http://www.saleae.com/logic16 Logic16]<br />
* 100MHZ Digital Oscilloscope<br />
** Possibly a Rigol [http://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000Z/ds1104z/ DS1104Z], a 4 channel 100MHz scope<br />
** DONE!<br />
* A Reflow Oven<br />
** Probably a EuroCircuits [http://be.eurocircuits.com/shop/offtheshelf/product.aspx?ano=ec-reflow-mate EC-Reflow Mate]<br />
<br />
===Would Be Nice===<br />
* USB microscope with monitor<br />
* Spectrum Analyser<br />
* A PC<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
== Archive==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:1836058-40.jpg|[http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-8700/power-supply-bench-2x-32v-5a/dp/IN06096 Dual 32V, 5A Bench Power Supply]<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Bench Requirements (based on conversations with lots of people!)<br />
* Height: Standard workstation/stool height (~840mm) rather than desk/chair height - allows working standing or sitting on stools<br />
* Depth: Standard electronics workstation depth of ~900mm to allow for equipment at the back whilst still giving decent workspace<br />
* ESD - whilst some people don't care, other seem to care a lot, so assume antistatic worksurface<br />
* Structure - A long workbench surface along the wall of the main workshop, approximately 4m; Options:<br />
** Standard electronics workbenches (metal structure bench with drawers below left/right, back power strip at back, raised shelf)<br />
** Basic electronics workbences without storage below, cantilever or 4-post design<br />
** Worksurface (e.g. kitchen) fixed to wall with some drawer units as stands (e.g. ikea) <br />
* Other considerations:<br />
** Allow for a variable number of people to sit at it (i.e. bunch up, couple of people around same project)<br />
** Decent storage for all the basic tools, components<br />
** Some form of raised area for scopes/test equipment<br />
** Very sturdy - i.e. wont move if lent on, pushed against etc<br />
--></div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/BarBotBarBot2014-09-23T19:28:59Z<p>Pinski1: /* Idea Scratchpad */</p>
<hr />
<div>We want to create a BarBot.<br />
<br />
==Initial Goals==<br />
<br />
* 6 Optivends for alcoholic drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for soft drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for misc items (olives cherries, umbrellas, etc...)<br />
* High through put with multiple drinks simultaneously<br />
<br />
===Target Cocktails===<br />
* Gin & Tonic<br />
** Gin<br />
** Tonic<br />
* White Russian<br />
** Cream<br />
** Vodka<br />
** Kahula<br />
** Ice<br />
* Margarita<br />
** tequila<br />
** line<br />
** triple sec<br />
** salt rim<br />
* Mojito<br />
** Lime<br />
** Mint Leaves<br />
** Sugar<br />
** ice<br />
** white rum<br />
** soda water<br />
<br />
==ToDo==<br />
* Block diagram<br />
* Decide on a budget<br />
* Make a makespace community project<br />
<br />
==Idea Scratchpad==<br />
* Force sensitive resistors for glass detection & liquid quantity<br />
* Carriages with scissor lifts to activate Optivends (and thus everything else)<br />
* Circular track/path to automatically reuse a carriage.<br />
* Ways of bypassing unused dispensers to allow for drinks leapfrogging.<br />
* Raspberry Pi for main controller, Arduino-likes for carriages<br />
* 3D print our own [http://hackaday.com/2014/09/16/a-3d-printed-peristaltic-pump/ peristaltic pumps]?<br />
* HackADay links to check out [http://hackaday.com/tag/bartender/ here]<br />
* A barbot is essentially a vending machine, mine vending machines for mechanisms & ideas.<br />
* Drill chuck like cup grabber<br />
<br />
==Roberts Working Idea==<br />
* Standardised glasses, like [http://cupsdirect.co.uk/product/8oz-soft-drink-plastic-glass/ these] or [http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/a/pb/Huhtamaki-Polarity-Plastic-Tumbler-10oz-81mm-Lid-Pack-50/pr=Q29&id=6234804/ these].<br />
* Glasses are loaded in corner as a stack of 20 in a column<br />
* Glasses travel on a large carousel<br />
* Mini-carousels for spirits, lever mechanism to operate Optics<br />
* Peristaltic pumps for soft drinks<br />
* Hoppers and screws for garnishes<br />
* Fits in a transparent ~1 meter cube, interesting things to see from all 4 sides.<br />
* Use a RPi for management, connected to a touch screen for order taking and an RFID reader (TikiTag?) for customer tracking<br />
* Use [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_Interconnect_Network LIN] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus CAN] bus nodes for modular management; a node for cup carousel, a node for a spirit carousel etc...<br />
** Freescale KL05 FRDM boards for each node, a specialised shield to tailor the node for it's role.<br />
** LIN Spec [http://www.cs-group.de/fileadmin/media/Documents/LIN_Specification_Package_2.2A.pdf here].<br />
* Lots of sensors for fully closed loop control<br />
* See [http://interactive.blockdiag.com/?compression=deflate&src=eJxtjs0KgkAYRfc9xWXWCbWuXKRQgkWkrcTFqGN-OMzIjK6id0-TfhCX93C4nEzqvC6I3_FYALheCI6LKDdCKCSSZ0JiB3b0TwFLNx9l6yDWXV7ZqXeL9hONaor79zmFeV2DUPNCGLYcl8eN7qyQw44aMtR-UbJK5-h6pLps4RtSNXyyjVB2_Dxwo8hWf7CPct9xv6IwOA9FzxfRqVEK here] for block diagram</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/BarBotBarBot2014-09-20T12:06:38Z<p>Pinski1: /* Roberts Working Idea */</p>
<hr />
<div>We want to create a BarBot.<br />
<br />
==Initial Goals==<br />
<br />
* 6 Optivends for alcoholic drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for soft drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for misc items (olives cherries, umbrellas, etc...)<br />
* High through put with multiple drinks simultaneously<br />
<br />
===Target Cocktails===<br />
* Gin & Tonic<br />
** Gin<br />
** Tonic<br />
* White Russian<br />
** Cream<br />
** Vodka<br />
** Kahula<br />
** Ice<br />
* Margarita<br />
** tequila<br />
** line<br />
** triple sec<br />
** salt rim<br />
* Mojito<br />
** Lime<br />
** Mint Leaves<br />
** Sugar<br />
** ice<br />
** white rum<br />
** soda water<br />
<br />
==ToDo==<br />
* Block diagram<br />
* Decide on a budget<br />
* Make a makespace community project<br />
<br />
==Idea Scratchpad==<br />
* Force sensitive resistors for glass detection & liquid quantity<br />
* Carriages with scissor lifts to activate Optivends (and thus everything else)<br />
* Circular track/path to automatically reuse a carriage.<br />
* Ways of bypassing unused dispensers to allow for drinks leapfrogging.<br />
* Raspberry Pi for main controller, Arduino-likes for carriages<br />
* 3D print our own [http://hackaday.com/2014/09/16/a-3d-printed-peristaltic-pump/ peristaltic pumps]?<br />
* HackADay links to check out [http://hackaday.com/tag/bartender/ here]<br />
* A barbot is essentially a vending machine, mine vending machines for mechanisms & ideas.<br />
<br />
==Roberts Working Idea==<br />
* Standardised glasses, like [http://cupsdirect.co.uk/product/8oz-soft-drink-plastic-glass/ these] or [http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/a/pb/Huhtamaki-Polarity-Plastic-Tumbler-10oz-81mm-Lid-Pack-50/pr=Q29&id=6234804/ these].<br />
* Glasses are loaded in corner as a stack of 20 in a column<br />
* Glasses travel on a large carousel<br />
* Mini-carousels for spirits, lever mechanism to operate Optics<br />
* Peristaltic pumps for soft drinks<br />
* Hoppers and screws for garnishes<br />
* Fits in a transparent ~1 meter cube, interesting things to see from all 4 sides.<br />
* Use a RPi for management, connected to a touch screen for order taking and an RFID reader (TikiTag?) for customer tracking<br />
* Use [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_Interconnect_Network LIN] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus CAN] bus nodes for modular management; a node for cup carousel, a node for a spirit carousel etc...<br />
** Freescale KL05 FRDM boards for each node, a specialised shield to tailor the node for it's role.<br />
** LIN Spec [http://www.cs-group.de/fileadmin/media/Documents/LIN_Specification_Package_2.2A.pdf here].<br />
* Lots of sensors for fully closed loop control<br />
* See [http://interactive.blockdiag.com/?compression=deflate&src=eJxtjs0KgkAYRfc9xWXWCbWuXKRQgkWkrcTFqGN-OMzIjK6id0-TfhCX93C4nEzqvC6I3_FYALheCI6LKDdCKCSSZ0JiB3b0TwFLNx9l6yDWXV7ZqXeL9hONaor79zmFeV2DUPNCGLYcl8eN7qyQw44aMtR-UbJK5-h6pLps4RtSNXyyjVB2_Dxwo8hWf7CPct9xv6IwOA9FzxfRqVEK here] for block diagram</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/BarBotBarBot2014-09-20T12:06:24Z<p>Pinski1: /* Roberts Working Idea */</p>
<hr />
<div>We want to create a BarBot.<br />
<br />
==Initial Goals==<br />
<br />
* 6 Optivends for alcoholic drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for soft drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for misc items (olives cherries, umbrellas, etc...)<br />
* High through put with multiple drinks simultaneously<br />
<br />
===Target Cocktails===<br />
* Gin & Tonic<br />
** Gin<br />
** Tonic<br />
* White Russian<br />
** Cream<br />
** Vodka<br />
** Kahula<br />
** Ice<br />
* Margarita<br />
** tequila<br />
** line<br />
** triple sec<br />
** salt rim<br />
* Mojito<br />
** Lime<br />
** Mint Leaves<br />
** Sugar<br />
** ice<br />
** white rum<br />
** soda water<br />
<br />
==ToDo==<br />
* Block diagram<br />
* Decide on a budget<br />
* Make a makespace community project<br />
<br />
==Idea Scratchpad==<br />
* Force sensitive resistors for glass detection & liquid quantity<br />
* Carriages with scissor lifts to activate Optivends (and thus everything else)<br />
* Circular track/path to automatically reuse a carriage.<br />
* Ways of bypassing unused dispensers to allow for drinks leapfrogging.<br />
* Raspberry Pi for main controller, Arduino-likes for carriages<br />
* 3D print our own [http://hackaday.com/2014/09/16/a-3d-printed-peristaltic-pump/ peristaltic pumps]?<br />
* HackADay links to check out [http://hackaday.com/tag/bartender/ here]<br />
* A barbot is essentially a vending machine, mine vending machines for mechanisms & ideas.<br />
<br />
==Roberts Working Idea==<br />
* Standardised glasses, like [http://cupsdirect.co.uk/product/8oz-soft-drink-plastic-glass/ these] or [http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/a/pb/Huhtamaki-Polarity-Plastic-Tumbler-10oz-81mm-Lid-Pack-50/pr=Q29&id=6234804/ these].<br />
* Glasses are loaded in corner as a stack of 20 in a column<br />
* Glasses travel on a large carousel<br />
* Mini-carousels for spirits, lever mechanism to operate Optics<br />
* Peristaltic pumps for soft drinks<br />
* Hoppers and screws for garnishes<br />
* Fits in a transparent ~1 meter cube, interesting things to see from all 4 sides.<br />
* Use a RPi for management, connected to a touch screen for order taking and an RFID reader (TikiTag?) for customer tracking<br />
* Use [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_Interconnect_Network LIN] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus] bus nodes for modular management; a node for cup carousel, a node for a spirit carousel etc...<br />
** Freescale KL05 FRDM boards for each node, a specialised shield to tailor the node for it's role.<br />
** LIN Spec [http://www.cs-group.de/fileadmin/media/Documents/LIN_Specification_Package_2.2A.pdf here].<br />
* Lots of sensors for fully closed loop control<br />
* See [http://interactive.blockdiag.com/?compression=deflate&src=eJxtjs0KgkAYRfc9xWXWCbWuXKRQgkWkrcTFqGN-OMzIjK6id0-TfhCX93C4nEzqvC6I3_FYALheCI6LKDdCKCSSZ0JiB3b0TwFLNx9l6yDWXV7ZqXeL9hONaor79zmFeV2DUPNCGLYcl8eN7qyQw44aMtR-UbJK5-h6pLps4RtSNXyyjVB2_Dxwo8hWf7CPct9xv6IwOA9FzxfRqVEK here] for block diagram</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/BarBotBarBot2014-09-18T14:37:42Z<p>Pinski1: /* Roberts Working Idea */</p>
<hr />
<div>We want to create a BarBot.<br />
<br />
==Initial Goals==<br />
<br />
* 6 Optivends for alcoholic drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for soft drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for misc items (olives cherries, umbrellas, etc...)<br />
* High through put with multiple drinks simultaneously<br />
<br />
===Target Cocktails===<br />
* Gin & Tonic<br />
** Gin<br />
** Tonic<br />
* White Russian<br />
** Cream<br />
** Vodka<br />
** Kahula<br />
** Ice<br />
* Margarita<br />
** tequila<br />
** line<br />
** triple sec<br />
** salt rim<br />
* Mojito<br />
** Lime<br />
** Mint Leaves<br />
** Sugar<br />
** ice<br />
** white rum<br />
** soda water<br />
<br />
==ToDo==<br />
* Block diagram<br />
* Decide on a budget<br />
* Make a makespace community project<br />
<br />
==Idea Scratchpad==<br />
* Force sensitive resistors for glass detection & liquid quantity<br />
* Carriages with scissor lifts to activate Optivends (and thus everything else)<br />
* Circular track/path to automatically reuse a carriage.<br />
* Ways of bypassing unused dispensers to allow for drinks leapfrogging.<br />
* Raspberry Pi for main controller, Arduino-likes for carriages<br />
* 3D print our own [http://hackaday.com/2014/09/16/a-3d-printed-peristaltic-pump/ peristaltic pumps]?<br />
* HackADay links to check out [http://hackaday.com/tag/bartender/ here]<br />
* A barbot is essentially a vending machine, mine vending machines for mechanisms & ideas.<br />
<br />
==Roberts Working Idea==<br />
* Standardised glasses, like [http://cupsdirect.co.uk/product/8oz-soft-drink-plastic-glass/ these] or [http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/a/pb/Huhtamaki-Polarity-Plastic-Tumbler-10oz-81mm-Lid-Pack-50/pr=Q29&id=6234804/ these].<br />
* Glasses are loaded in corner as a stack of 20 in a column<br />
* Glasses travel on a large carousel<br />
* Mini-carousels for spirits, lever mechanism to operate Optics<br />
* Peristaltic pumps for soft drinks<br />
* Hoppers and screws for garnishes<br />
* Fits in a transparent ~1 meter cube, interesting things to see from all 4 sides.<br />
* Use a RPi for management, connected to a touch screen for order taking and an RFID reader (TikiTag?) for customer tracking<br />
* Use [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_Interconnect_Network LIN] bus nodes for modular management; a node for cup carousel, a node for a spirit carousel etc...<br />
** Freescale KL05 FRDM boards for each node, a specialised shield to tailor the node for it's role.<br />
* Lots of sensors for fully closed loop control<br />
* See [http://interactive.blockdiag.com/?compression=deflate&src=eJxtjs0KgkAYRfc9xWXWCbWuXKRQgkWkrcTFqGN-OMzIjK6id0-TfhCX93C4nEzqvC6I3_FYALheCI6LKDdCKCSSZ0JiB3b0TwFLNx9l6yDWXV7ZqXeL9hONaor79zmFeV2DUPNCGLYcl8eN7qyQw44aMtR-UbJK5-h6pLps4RtSNXyyjVB2_Dxwo8hWf7CPct9xv6IwOA9FzxfRqVEK here] for block diagram</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/BarBotBarBot2014-09-18T14:37:22Z<p>Pinski1: /* Roberts Working Idea */</p>
<hr />
<div>We want to create a BarBot.<br />
<br />
==Initial Goals==<br />
<br />
* 6 Optivends for alcoholic drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for soft drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for misc items (olives cherries, umbrellas, etc...)<br />
* High through put with multiple drinks simultaneously<br />
<br />
===Target Cocktails===<br />
* Gin & Tonic<br />
** Gin<br />
** Tonic<br />
* White Russian<br />
** Cream<br />
** Vodka<br />
** Kahula<br />
** Ice<br />
* Margarita<br />
** tequila<br />
** line<br />
** triple sec<br />
** salt rim<br />
* Mojito<br />
** Lime<br />
** Mint Leaves<br />
** Sugar<br />
** ice<br />
** white rum<br />
** soda water<br />
<br />
==ToDo==<br />
* Block diagram<br />
* Decide on a budget<br />
* Make a makespace community project<br />
<br />
==Idea Scratchpad==<br />
* Force sensitive resistors for glass detection & liquid quantity<br />
* Carriages with scissor lifts to activate Optivends (and thus everything else)<br />
* Circular track/path to automatically reuse a carriage.<br />
* Ways of bypassing unused dispensers to allow for drinks leapfrogging.<br />
* Raspberry Pi for main controller, Arduino-likes for carriages<br />
* 3D print our own [http://hackaday.com/2014/09/16/a-3d-printed-peristaltic-pump/ peristaltic pumps]?<br />
* HackADay links to check out [http://hackaday.com/tag/bartender/ here]<br />
* A barbot is essentially a vending machine, mine vending machines for mechanisms & ideas.<br />
<br />
==Roberts Working Idea==<br />
* Standardised glasses, like [http://cupsdirect.co.uk/product/8oz-soft-drink-plastic-glass/ these] or [http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/a/pb/Huhtamaki-Polarity-Plastic-Tumbler-10oz-81mm-Lid-Pack-50/pr=Q29&id=6234804/ these].<br />
* Glasses are loaded in corner as a stack of 20 in a column<br />
* Glasses travel on large carousels<br />
* Mini-carousels for spirits, lever mechanism to operate Optics<br />
* Peristaltic pumps for soft drinks<br />
* Hoppers and screws for garnishes<br />
* Fits in a transparent ~1 meter cube, interesting things to see from all 4 sides.<br />
* Use a RPi for management, connected to a touch screen for order taking and an RFID reader (TikiTag?) for customer tracking<br />
* Use [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_Interconnect_Network LIN] bus nodes for modular management; a node for cup carousel, a node for a spirit carousel etc...<br />
** Freescale KL05 FRDM boards for each node, a specialised shield to tailor the node for it's role.<br />
* Lots of sensors for fully closed loop control<br />
* See [http://interactive.blockdiag.com/?compression=deflate&src=eJxtjs0KgkAYRfc9xWXWCbWuXKRQgkWkrcTFqGN-OMzIjK6id0-TfhCX93C4nEzqvC6I3_FYALheCI6LKDdCKCSSZ0JiB3b0TwFLNx9l6yDWXV7ZqXeL9hONaor79zmFeV2DUPNCGLYcl8eN7qyQw44aMtR-UbJK5-h6pLps4RtSNXyyjVB2_Dxwo8hWf7CPct9xv6IwOA9FzxfRqVEK here] for block diagram</div>Pinski1http://wiki.makespace.org/BarBotBarBot2014-09-18T12:22:20Z<p>Pinski1: /* Roberts Working Idea */</p>
<hr />
<div>We want to create a BarBot.<br />
<br />
==Initial Goals==<br />
<br />
* 6 Optivends for alcoholic drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for soft drinks<br />
* 6 dispensers for misc items (olives cherries, umbrellas, etc...)<br />
* High through put with multiple drinks simultaneously<br />
<br />
===Target Cocktails===<br />
* Gin & Tonic<br />
** Gin<br />
** Tonic<br />
* White Russian<br />
** Cream<br />
** Vodka<br />
** Kahula<br />
** Ice<br />
* Margarita<br />
** tequila<br />
** line<br />
** triple sec<br />
** salt rim<br />
* Mojito<br />
** Lime<br />
** Mint Leaves<br />
** Sugar<br />
** ice<br />
** white rum<br />
** soda water<br />
<br />
==ToDo==<br />
* Block diagram<br />
* Decide on a budget<br />
* Make a makespace community project<br />
<br />
==Idea Scratchpad==<br />
* Force sensitive resistors for glass detection & liquid quantity<br />
* Carriages with scissor lifts to activate Optivends (and thus everything else)<br />
* Circular track/path to automatically reuse a carriage.<br />
* Ways of bypassing unused dispensers to allow for drinks leapfrogging.<br />
* Raspberry Pi for main controller, Arduino-likes for carriages<br />
* 3D print our own [http://hackaday.com/2014/09/16/a-3d-printed-peristaltic-pump/ peristaltic pumps]?<br />
* HackADay links to check out [http://hackaday.com/tag/bartender/ here]<br />
* A barbot is essentially a vending machine, mine vending machines for mechanisms & ideas.<br />
<br />
==Roberts Working Idea==<br />
* Standardised glasses, like [http://cupsdirect.co.uk/product/8oz-soft-drink-plastic-glass/ these] or [http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/a/pb/Huhtamaki-Polarity-Plastic-Tumbler-10oz-81mm-Lid-Pack-50/pr=Q29&id=6234804/ these].<br />
* Glasses are loaded in corner as a stack of 20 in a column<br />
* Glasses travel on large carousels<br />
* Mini-carousels for spirits, lever mechanism to operate Optics<br />
* Peristaltic pumps for soft drinks<br />
* Hoppers and screws for garnishes<br />
* Fits in a transparent ~1 meter cube, interesting things to see from all 4 sides.<br />
* Use a RPi for management, connected to a touch screen for order taking and an RFID reader (TikiTag?) for customer tracking<br />
* Use CAN bus nodes for modular management; a node for cup carousel, a node for a spirit carousel etc...<br />
** Freescale KL05 FRDM boards for each node, a specialised shield to tailor the node for it's role.<br />
* Lots of sensors for fully closed loop control<br />
* See [http://interactive.blockdiag.com/?compression=deflate&src=eJyVzkELgjAYxvF7n-Jhd6HOlVAKFVREs5N4mDrzxbHJpqfou2eBBgVS5-fHnydVJqtyElfcJgDOJ4Lng2dWSo1YiVQqLMG24WHHknlPFh4i02al-3QXvn6y3lBFUZf-2lnQ1tgbkUvLOui_om8VrI6DCoQ1rZNqzPGaLDUDjafJP3o2rk3RILSkK4Tkaqnd-OeNsJpc-RO-PwCJfm_n here] for block diagram</div>Pinski1