{{RedTool}}

[[File:8633913103_92f52a697d_c.jpg|thumb|320px|right]]

= Glassworking - General =

== Summary ==

This is a kiln and hot torch to work with soft glass - fusing and forming rather than blowing although if there's interest in the latter let us know!

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

== Owners ==

[[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Glassworking]]

Glassworking involves both sharp, fragile raw materials and extreme heat. Most risks are obvious - sharp glass can cut you, and the hot torch and kiln can both burn. There are, however, a few non-obvious risks to be aware of:

# When working with the flame your glass will be glowing red hot or hotter, but very shortly after you put a rod down to work with something else the glass will cool to be visually indistinguishable from glass at room temperature. It may at this point still be hundreds of degrees centigrade! Do not pick anything up while someone is working at the torch without asking, you like your skin and want to keep it.
# Glass rods can stress-crack at the tip when heated. Point rods away from you and always wear eye protection - the glass won't travel far but you don't want it in your eyes.
# When using the kiln you will have to leave it to cool, unless you plan to be in the space for ten hours straight. Please leave some appropriate indication that the kiln is hot!

Other risks will be covered during training - working with hot glass is perfectly safe as long as basic procedures are followed.

== Equipment ==

Our kiln is a Paragon SC2 kiln with an included bead door and window. This kiln includes a controller capable of multi-step programs with controlled rate heat up and cool down cycles. It has a maximum temperature of 1100 degrees centigrade, enough to fire some metal clays and work with most kinds of glass, but not enough to act as a metal furnace.

In addition to the kiln we have a HotHead gas torch, along with the appropriate connection kit to run off bulk Propane gas rather than the normal MAPP cylinders (these burn slightly hotter, but are much more expensive as they're not available in larger quantities). The torch is mounted on a height and angle adjustable stand suitable for bead work when sitting on the low stool that should be lurking around the glassworking station.

For bead working we have a variety of mandrels, bead release that can be cooked in the flame and a wedge shaped graphite marver.

For art glass and strip-work we have a set of cutting tools along with a slump mould for making very small (9x9cm) glass plates.

It is important that these tools remain exclusively used for glass, please resist the temptation to use the cutters, pliers etc for other materials!

== Glass Stock ==

We have a selection of glass rod, sheet, stringer and frit.

The large pots of glass are bought as a random selection for about ten pounds per pot, they consist of offcuts of bullseye COE90 (coefficient of expansion, only important in as much as all glass in a particular piece should have the same number to prevent explosions!) in various thicknesses. Bullseye COE90 glass will tend to form 6mm thick sheets due to surface tension so stack your strip-work to that height.

In addition to this we have a small amount of specific colours of bullseye COE90 glass currently in clear 9x9cm sheets and larger plates of Makespace colours. We can buy at a discount from a couple of online suppliers even when ordering small quantities (a side effect of buying all the kiln and other hardware in one go!) so post to the list of you want anything in particular and we can order it.

For bead making we have a set of clear and a set of mixed coloured COE90 rods, along with tubes of frit and a selection of random stringer (1mm thick rod) glass for decoration. Prices for these are TBD, but will be printed on a sheet near the glassworking station when determined (something in the order of a pound per full rod, that would work out as around 20-40p per medium size bead, each of which would take about half an hour to make).

== Location ==

The glassworking kit is in the corner of the main workshop nearest the stairs up to the cafe. Please keep work to the area covered by the steel sheeting - we're not working with enough material to cause a serious problem otherwise but it helps keep everything tidy. As it currently stands the station is only suitable for one person, or two if both are working together. It would be asking for trouble to try to have someone using the table to cut glass at the same time as someone was working with the torch, so please don't!

== Scheduling ==

Unlike many pieces of equipment in Makespace the kiln requires a considerable amount of uninterrupted time to run. We don't have a formal booking system in place, so for now I suggest you email the list if you propose to use it. For example, if you're doing bead work you will be spending between half an hour and two hours (depending on how many you're making) using the hot torch, with beads being placed in the kiln at a holding temperature while the others are worked in the flame, then running an annealing cycle which will cool down under computer control for a couple of hours, then cooling to ambient before the kiln becomes available for other users. It should be possible to get two runs in a day, as long as the first is done in the morning, but no more than that.

While the kiln is a model which should be possible to leave unattended please ensure you can be in the space for the duration of its active firing cycle - it's fine to leave once the heating elements are off and the kiln is cooling to ambient but for now please hang around while it's actually firing. We may be able to revisit this at some point after it's had a track record of not bursting into flames etc etc.

= How tos =

== How to make glass beads ==

'''If in doubt, consult the Kiln manual(s), and/or speak to one of the owners (or other trained users)!'''

=== Preparation ===

# Fire up kiln
#* turn on, wait for "IDLE" to appear. If it says "Cplt" press start once.
#* use Programme 1
#* press Review, if it's #1 then fine, press start and start again
# Get bead release to correct consistency
#* The bead release dries out over time. If it is too thick and lumpy you need to add water to it. Screw on the lid and shake the bead release well to get rid of all the lumps. It should be the consistency of a thick smoothie.
# get everything (mandrels, tools, water bucket, glass) ready and laid out so you don't have to bend over hot flame to fetch it later
# let kiln get hot enough -- final firing temperature is ~530 degrees; you can already start working on the glass bead before it's reached its final temperature of course...

=== Glassworking ===

# turn on flame
#* the two valves on the bottle open clockwise; the valve on the flame opens counterclockwise
#* don't put the lighter directly in front of the nozzle, but slightly below/to the side
#* adjust gas flow so it doesn't sputter but doesn't have a loud "windy" noise either
# Coat the mandrel
#* tilt the bottle before you dip
#* dip only once, turn the mandrel while it is still in the bottle
#* without touching the sides of the bottle, and pull out the mandrel
#* without touching the sides of the bottle
# sit on the small stool, resting your elbows on your legs; rest the mandrel on your little finger, and use thumb and index finger to rotate it
# dry bead release & heat mandrel in flame
# heat tip of glass rod evenly
#* the hottest part of the flame is just at the tip of the bright blue (inner) cone
#* beware of splinters (thermoshock) -- point rod away from you and other people!
#* if needed, straighten rod out again before putting away
# gently roll molten glass onto mandrel
#* the glass rod should be in the hottest part of the flame, the mandrel slightly further away
#* do not apply any significant force -- this will pull off the bead release
#* do not let the glass touch the mandrels directly (where there isn't any bead release)!
#* create overhang to prevent pointy bits
# things you can do with the bead:
#* add little splinters of glass (put on metal table, scoop back into tube afterwards)
#* use the thin glass rods to draw lines and shapes
#* use a thin mandrel to 'paint' (e.g. spirals) between glasses of different color (dip into water bucket, if needed after getting red hot again, to remove glass stuck to the mandrel)
#* e.g. silver foil to change color of glass
# when done, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red, turn off the flame and insert mandrel into kiln
#* don't touch the walls and especially not the thermocouple at the back wall
# repeat as needed for as many mandrels as fit into the kiln

=== Wrapping up ===

# "skip segment": press "Down"[?] button, and then "Start" once
# stick around till the cooling process has finished, and the kiln returns to "IDLE"
# turn off kiln, and add note saying it's still hot (which it is!)
# leave mandrels in for another several hours (the next morning if you worked in the evening) so they can cool down to room temperature
# don't forget to pick up your beads later to make space for other people!

=== Finishing ===

tips & tricks for how to get beads off mandrel and what to do with them then:
* take the forceps from the toolbox to grip the mandrel (not the glassbead), and grip the bead with your other hand and rotate
** take care not to bend the mandrel! this is particularly relevant for the thin mandrels
* wash the beads to get the bead release off
* there are [these things with teeth on] to remove the bead release
** using a shoestring might work, too; at least for big holes

== How to fuse glass together ==

TODO

== Other uses of the Kiln ==

TODO

User:LethaHahn

2013-07-30T11:29:15Z

ST: spam deleted

User:FideliaBl

2013-07-30T11:29:02Z

ST: spam deleted

Equipment/Glassworking

2013-07-25T12:02:02Z

ST: /* How to */

{{RedTool}}

[[File:8633913103_92f52a697d_c.jpg|thumb|320px|right]]

= Glassworking - General =

== Summary ==

This is a kiln and hot torch to work with soft glass - fusing and forming rather than blowing although if there's interest in the latter let us know!

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

== Owners ==

[[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Glassworking]]

Glassworking involves both sharp, fragile raw materials and extreme heat. Most risks are obvious - sharp glass can cut you, and the hot torch and kiln can both burn. There are, however, a few non-obvious risks to be aware of:

# When working with the flame your glass will be glowing red hot or hotter, but very shortly after you put a rod down to work with something else the glass will cool to be visually indistinguishable from glass at room temperature. It may at this point still be hundreds of degrees centigrade! Do not pick anything up while someone is working at the torch without asking, you like your skin and want to keep it.
# Glass rods can stress-crack at the tip when heated. Point rods away from you and always wear eye protection - the glass won't travel far but you don't want it in your eyes.
# When using the kiln you will have to leave it to cool, unless you plan to be in the space for ten hours straight. Please leave some appropriate indication that the kiln is hot!

Other risks will be covered during training - working with hot glass is perfectly safe as long as basic procedures are followed.

== Equipment ==

Our kiln is a Paragon SC2 kiln with an included bead door and window. This kiln includes a controller capable of multi-step programs with controlled rate heat up and cool down cycles. It has a maximum temperature of 1100 degrees centigrade, enough to fire some metal clays and work with most kinds of glass, but not enough to act as a metal furnace.

In addition to the kiln we have a HotHead gas torch, along with the appropriate connection kit to run off bulk Propane gas rather than the normal MAPP cylinders (these burn slightly hotter, but are much more expensive as they're not available in larger quantities). The torch is mounted on a height and angle adjustable stand suitable for bead work when sitting on the low stool that should be lurking around the glassworking station.

For bead working we have a variety of mandrels, bead release that can be cooked in the flame and a wedge shaped graphite marver.

For art glass and strip-work we have a set of cutting tools along with a slump mould for making very small (9x9cm) glass plates.

It is important that these tools remain exclusively used for glass, please resist the temptation to use the cutters, pliers etc for other materials!

== Glass Stock ==

We have a selection of glass rod, sheet, stringer and frit.

The large pots of glass are bought as a random selection for about ten pounds per pot, they consist of offcuts of bullseye COE90 (coefficient of expansion, only important in as much as all glass in a particular piece should have the same number to prevent explosions!) in various thicknesses. Bullseye COE90 glass will tend to form 6mm thick sheets due to surface tension so stack your strip-work to that height.

In addition to this we have a small amount of specific colours of bullseye COE90 glass currently in clear 9x9cm sheets and larger plates of Makespace colours. We can buy at a discount from a couple of online suppliers even when ordering small quantities (a side effect of buying all the kiln and other hardware in one go!) so post to the list of you want anything in particular and we can order it.

For bead making we have a set of clear and a set of mixed coloured COE90 rods, along with tubes of frit and a selection of random stringer (1mm thick rod) glass for decoration. Prices for these are TBD, but will be printed on a sheet near the glassworking station when determined (something in the order of a pound per full rod, that would work out as around 20-40p per medium size bead, each of which would take about half an hour to make).

== Location ==

The glassworking kit is in the corner of the main workshop nearest the stairs up to the cafe. Please keep work to the area covered by the steel sheeting - we're not working with enough material to cause a serious problem otherwise but it helps keep everything tidy. As it currently stands the station is only suitable for one person, or two if both are working together. It would be asking for trouble to try to have someone using the table to cut glass at the same time as someone was working with the torch, so please don't!

== Scheduling ==

Unlike many pieces of equipment in Makespace the kiln requires a considerable amount of uninterrupted time to run. We don't have a formal booking system in place, so for now I suggest you email the list if you propose to use it. For example, if you're doing bead work you will be spending between half an hour and two hours (depending on how many you're making) using the hot torch, with beads being placed in the kiln at a holding temperature while the others are worked in the flame, then running an annealing cycle which will cool down under computer control for a couple of hours, then cooling to ambient before the kiln becomes available for other users. It should be possible to get two runs in a day, as long as the first is done in the morning, but no more than that.

While the kiln is a model which should be possible to leave unattended please ensure you can be in the space for the duration of its active firing cycle - it's fine to leave once the heating elements are off and the kiln is cooling to ambient but for now please hang around while it's actually firing. We may be able to revisit this at some point after it's had a track record of not bursting into flames etc etc.

= How tos =

== How to make glass beads ==

'''If in doubt, consult the Kiln manual(s), and/or speak to one of the owners (or other trained users)!'''

=== Preparation ===

# Fire up kiln
#* turn on, wait for "IDLE" to appear
#* use Programme 1
#* TODO which buttons to press in which order!
# Get bead release to correct consistency
#* The bead release dries out over time. If it is too thick and lumpy you need to add water to it. Screw on the lid and shake the bead release well to get rid of all the lumps. It should be the consistency of a thick smoothie.
# get everything (mandrels, tools, glass) ready and laid out so you don't have to bend over hot flame to fetch it later
# wait till kiln is hot enough

=== Glassworking ===

# turn on flame
#* TODO which way the valves work etc., where to put the lighter
# Coat the mandrel
#* tilt the bottle before you dip
#* dip only once, turn the mandrel while it is still in the bottle
#* without touching the sides of the bottle, and pull out the mandrel
#* without touching the sides of the bottle
# sit on the small stool, resting your elbows on your legs; rest the mandrel on your little finger, and use thumb and index finger to rotate it
# dry mandrel in flame
# heat glass rod evenly
#* beware of splinters -- point rod away from you and other people
#* the hottest part of the flame is [TODO]
# gently roll molten glass onto mandrel
#* the glass rod should be in the hottest part of the flame, the mandrel slightly further away
#* do not apply any significant force -- this will pull off the bead release
#* do not let the glass touch the mandrels directly!
# when done, turn off flame and insert mandrel into kiln
#* don't touch the walls and especially not the thermocouple at the back wall
# repeat as needed for as many mandrels as fit into the kiln

=== Wrapping up ===

# "skip segment": press button [TODO]
# stick around till the cooling process has finished, and the kiln returns to "IDLE"
# turn off kiln, and add note saying it's still hot (which it is!)
# leave mandrels in for another [several hours] so they can cool down to room temperature
# don't forget to pick up your beads later to make space for other people!

=== Finishing ===

tips & tricks for how to get beads off mandrel and what to do with them then:
* take the forceps from the toolbox to grip the mandrel (not the glassbead), and grip the bead with your other hand and rotate
** take care not to bend the mandrel! this is particularly relevant for the thin mandrels
* wash the beads to get the bead release off
* there are [these things with teeth on] to remove the bead release
** using a shoestring might work, too; at least for big holes

== How to fuse glass together ==

TODO

== Other uses of the Kiln ==

TODO

Equipment

2013-07-25T11:52:34Z

ST: moved Model Mill from Workshop to Space

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]
[[File:300XQ.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]

The equipment you can find in Makespace.

== Using our Equipment ==

There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.

Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.

== The Workshop ==

* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
* Metalwork Benches
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
* Woodwork Benches
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]

== The Space ==

* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]
* General Tools
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]

== Proposals and Notes ==

* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]

== Related ==
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.
* [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

Equipment/Glassworking

2013-07-23T15:34:34Z

ST: /* How to make glass beads */

{{RedTool}}

[[File:8633913103_92f52a697d_c.jpg|thumb|320px|right]]

= Glassworking - General =

== Summary ==

This is a kiln and hot torch to work with soft glass - fusing and forming rather than blowing although if there's interest in the latter let us know!

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

== Owners ==

[[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Glassworking]]

Glassworking involves both sharp, fragile raw materials and extreme heat. Most risks are obvious - sharp glass can cut you, and the hot torch and kiln can both burn. There are, however, a few non-obvious risks to be aware of:

# When working with the flame your glass will be glowing red hot or hotter, but very shortly after you put a rod down to work with something else the glass will cool to be visually indistinguishable from glass at room temperature. It may at this point still be hundreds of degrees centigrade! Do not pick anything up while someone is working at the torch without asking, you like your skin and want to keep it.
# Glass rods can stress-crack at the tip when heated. Point rods away from you and always wear eye protection - the glass won't travel far but you don't want it in your eyes.
# When using the kiln you will have to leave it to cool, unless you plan to be in the space for ten hours straight. Please leave some appropriate indication that the kiln is hot!

Other risks will be covered during training - working with hot glass is perfectly safe as long as basic procedures are followed.

== Equipment ==

Our kiln is a Paragon SC2 kiln with an included bead door and window. This kiln includes a controller capable of multi-step programs with controlled rate heat up and cool down cycles. It has a maximum temperature of 1100 degrees centigrade, enough to fire some metal clays and work with most kinds of glass, but not enough to act as a metal furnace.

In addition to the kiln we have a HotHead gas torch, along with the appropriate connection kit to run off bulk Propane gas rather than the normal MAPP cylinders (these burn slightly hotter, but are much more expensive as they're not available in larger quantities). The torch is mounted on a height and angle adjustable stand suitable for bead work when sitting on the low stool that should be lurking around the glassworking station.

For bead working we have a variety of mandrels, bead release that can be cooked in the flame and a wedge shaped graphite marver.

For art glass and strip-work we have a set of cutting tools along with a slump mould for making very small (9x9cm) glass plates.

It is important that these tools remain exclusively used for glass, please resist the temptation to use the cutters, pliers etc for other materials!

== Glass Stock ==

We have a selection of glass rod, sheet, stringer and frit.

The large pots of glass are bought as a random selection for about ten pounds per pot, they consist of offcuts of bullseye COE90 (coefficient of expansion, only important in as much as all glass in a particular piece should have the same number to prevent explosions!) in various thicknesses. Bullseye COE90 glass will tend to form 6mm thick sheets due to surface tension so stack your strip-work to that height.

In addition to this we have a small amount of specific colours of bullseye COE90 glass currently in clear 9x9cm sheets and larger plates of Makespace colours. We can buy at a discount from a couple of online suppliers even when ordering small quantities (a side effect of buying all the kiln and other hardware in one go!) so post to the list of you want anything in particular and we can order it.

For bead making we have a set of clear and a set of mixed coloured COE90 rods, along with tubes of frit and a selection of random stringer (1mm thick rod) glass for decoration. Prices for these are TBD, but will be printed on a sheet near the glassworking station when determined (something in the order of a pound per full rod, that would work out as around 20-40p per medium size bead, each of which would take about half an hour to make).

== Location ==

The glassworking kit is in the corner of the main workshop nearest the stairs up to the cafe. Please keep work to the area covered by the steel sheeting - we're not working with enough material to cause a serious problem otherwise but it helps keep everything tidy. As it currently stands the station is only suitable for one person, or two if both are working together. It would be asking for trouble to try to have someone using the table to cut glass at the same time as someone was working with the torch, so please don't!

== Scheduling ==

Unlike many pieces of equipment in Makespace the kiln requires a considerable amount of uninterrupted time to run. We don't have a formal booking system in place, so for now I suggest you email the list if you propose to use it. For example, if you're doing bead work you will be spending between half an hour and two hours (depending on how many you're making) using the hot torch, with beads being placed in the kiln at a holding temperature while the others are worked in the flame, then running an annealing cycle which will cool down under computer control for a couple of hours, then cooling to ambient before the kiln becomes available for other users. It should be possible to get two runs in a day, as long as the first is done in the morning, but no more than that.

While the kiln is a model which should be possible to leave unattended please ensure you can be in the space for the duration of its active firing cycle - it's fine to leave once the heating elements are off and the kiln is cooling to ambient but for now please hang around while it's actually firing. We may be able to revisit this at some point after it's had a track record of not bursting into flames etc etc.

= How to =

== How to make glass beads ==

'''If in doubt, consult the Kiln manual(s), and/or speak to one of the owners (or other trained users)!'''

# Fire up kiln
#* turn on, wait for "IDLE" to appear
#* use Programme 1
#* TODO which buttons to press in which order!
# Get bead release to correct consistency
#* The bead release dries out over time. If it is too thick and lumpy you need to add water to it. Screw on the lid and shake the bead release well to get rid of all the lumps. It should be the consistency of a thick smoothie.
# get everything ready
# wait till kiln is hot enough
# turn on flame
#* TODO which way the valves work etc., where to put the lighter
# Coat the mandrel
#* tilt the bottle before you dip
#* dip only once, turn the mandrel while it is still in the bottle
#* without touching the sides of the bottle, and pull out the mandrel
#* without touching the sides of the bottle
# dry mandrel in flame
#* TODO how to hold mandrel
# heat glass
#* beware of splinters -- hold away
# gently roll molten glass onto mandrel
#* do not apply any significant force -- will pull off the bead release
# when done, turn off flame and insert mandrel into kiln
# repeat as needed for as many mandrels as fit into the kiln
# skip segment
# stick around till the cooling is below the annealing temperature
# turn off kiln, add note saying it's still hot
# leave mandrels in for another [several hours] so they can cool down to room temperature
# don't forget to pick up your beads to make space for other people!
# TODO tips & tricks for how to get beads off mandrel and what to do with them then

== How to fuse glass together ==

TODO

== Other uses of the Kiln ==

TODO

2013-05-12T10:22:36Z

ST: /* Peripheral tools and accessories */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe

[[File:Myford.jpg|thumb|420px|right|Our Myford super 7]]

= Summary =

We have a Myford super 7 lathe kindly donated to us by Martin Levine. It is a quality machine in fair condition but it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.

<gallery>
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg
</gallery>

= Using the lathe =

The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. Some of the accessories are listed at [[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories]]

== Safety ==

The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.

The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.

Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

== Owners ==

The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.

So far the owners are Roger Smith and Robert Copcutt.

== Training ==

THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training.

== Instructions ==

There is a book, "Myford series 7 manual", by Ian Bradley available in the workshop (please do not remove it). We also have a Lathe safety manual from the CRC. These provide a comprehensive guide to using the Myford. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at these publications - in Makespace.

= Maintenance =

The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.

Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.

The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.

== Peripheral tools and accessories ==
Photo-list of current [[Equipment/Lathe/Accessories|lathe accessories]].

Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Accessories/accessories.htm

List desired accessories below:

* HSS tool blanks
* Tailstock chuck
* Vertical slide attachment (enables limited milling operations)

Equipment/Lathe/Accessories

2013-05-12T10:22:13Z

ST: moved Lathe accessories to Equipment/Lathe/Accessories

Talk:Equipment/Lathe

2013-05-12T10:21:32Z

ST: historical notes

= Historical discussion on buying a new or used lathe =

Large used lathes sell for cheap. They have the capacity to work large pieces, and they may be of very high quality for the price. Transporting them is difficult: they can weigh (literally) a ton. Getting spares when they arrive incomplete, they break, or we want accessories could be very difficult. Making a decision as a group about what to buy could be very difficult -- the used market is a moving target.

New lathes cost a lot, but there are entry level lathes of reasonable quality that would get us started. The downsides are a more limited capacity, and a less rigid machine. The small machines coming out of China dominate the small-lathe market, and buying one of these would make it easy to get spares and accessories from multiple sources. There is also an online community of hobbyists using them that we could draw upon. Chester, Machine-Mart, Axminster, and Arc Euro Trade all re-brand and sell very similar Chinese lathes.

== Desirable Features ==

* Thread cutting
* Variable speed
* Quick change tool post

== Concrete suggestions ==

The following small lathes have the features:

* http://www.chestermachinetools.com/products/detail/2 -- 332.50 ex. vat
* http://www.chestermachinetools.com/products/detail/3 -- 415.83 ex. vat

Joe says that these are rather small, and he knows, from experience, that they are easy to knock out of alignment. He recommends a bigger machine for beginners:

http://www.warco.co.uk/metal-lathes-metalworking-lathe-machine/19-wm280v-f-variable-speed-lathe.html -- 1,575.00 inc. VAT

(MT) That looks like a very good lathe. There still could be a place for a smaller, less expensive lathe in addition to a big lathe. If the Chester one is not a good choice for this, what about something like:
http://www.warco.co.uk/metal-lathes-metalworking-lathe-machine/15-wm-180-variable-speed-lathe.html - 725.00 inc vat

And in the same spirit for a lower cost milling machine:
http://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/36-major-milling-drilling-machine.html 1100.00 inc

Equipment/Lathe

2013-05-12T10:21:12Z

ST: moving historical notes to talk page

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe

[[File:Myford.jpg|thumb|420px|right|Our Myford super 7]]

= Summary =

We have a Myford super 7 lathe kindly donated to us by Martin Levine. It is a quality machine in fair condition but it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.

<gallery>
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg
</gallery>

= Using the lathe =

The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. Some of the accessories are listed at [[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories]]

== Safety ==

The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.

The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.

Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

== Owners ==

The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.

So far the owners are Roger Smith and Robert Copcutt.

== Training ==

THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training.

== Instructions ==

There is a book, "Myford series 7 manual", by Ian Bradley available in the workshop (please do not remove it). We also have a Lathe safety manual from the CRC. These provide a comprehensive guide to using the Myford. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at these publications - in Makespace.

= Maintenance =

The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.

Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.

The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.

== Peripheral tools and accessories ==
Photo-list of current [[Lathe accessories]].

Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Accessories/accessories.htm

List desired accessories below:

* HSS tool blanks
* Tailstock chuck
* Vertical slide attachment (enables limited milling operations)

Equipment/CNC Router

2013-05-12T10:19:08Z

ST: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / CNC Router

[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg|thumb|460px|right|CNC Router]]

== Summary ==

A CNC router is a computer controlled shaping machine. These are related to the hand held router. Instead of hand held routing, the tool paths can be controlled via computer numerical control. It is a computer-controlled machine for cutting various hard materials, such as wood, composites, aluminum, steel, plastics, and foams. It is one of many kinds of tools that have CNC variants. A CNC router is very similar in concept to a CNC milling machine. The CNC router is controlled by a computer. Coordinates are uploaded into the machine controller from a separate CAD program

* Capacity: 1200 x 1200 x 120mm
* Rate (X,Y): 6000mm/min (Max) 5000mm/min (Working)
* Rate (Z): 30mm/sec
* Spindle Speed: 4500 to 24000rpm
* Mechanical Precision: 0.01mm
* Spindle Power: 1.5KW Variable Speed, Water-cooled
* Blade Diameter: min 3.175mm, max 12.7mm
* Order Format: HPGL, G code, u00, mmg, plt
* Control System: DSP with USB connection

Here are some examples we've made on the Model Mill (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:WP_20130509_004.jpg
</gallery>

= Using the CNC Router =
== Owners ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the equipment, organising maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the CNC Router are:

* Stephen Woolhead
* Chris Abri
* Mark Mellors
* Dave Ansell
* David Bebb
* Simon Stirley

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the Model Mill, please use the mailing list thread:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/rkchD7VqM2c/discussion Log : CNC Router]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE CNC ROUTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/CNC_Router/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the model mill and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Model Mill Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router/Training|CNC Router Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

The CNC Router is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the CNC Router are:
* '''ONLY USE THE CNC ROUTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE CNC ROUTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''FIRE''' - Cutting with the wrong settings could result in the material igniting.

'''TRAPPING''' - Stand clear of the machine while in motion.

'''DUST''' - Ensure extraction system is working.

'''NOISE''' - Ensure that you wear the correct PPE when working with the machine for prolonged periods.

== Instructions ==

[http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf Router Manual]

== Feeds & Speeds ==

== Tips & Tricks ==

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the CNC Routeris carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

== Maintenance Log ==

Installed on 9th May 2013.

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* Cutters
* Sacrificial Bed (1.2m x 1.2m 12mm MDF)

= Further Information =

== Installation ==

Installed on 9th May 2013.

<gallery>
File:WP_20130509_005.jpg
File:CNC_Router_controller_1.jpg
File:CNC_Router_controller_2.jpg
</gallery>

== Purchase ==
Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£?????)

== Notes ==

http://www.shopbottools.com/mProducts/prSstandard.htm

Talk:Equipment/CNC Router

2013-05-12T10:18:22Z

ST: historical notes

== Original Requirements Notes ==

* CNC Controlled
* Minimum 4' x 4' cutting bed
** It was generally concluded whilst 8' x 4' would be attractive, it may have limits in terms of floor space and also materials storage and handling - storing and moving 8' x 4' sheets on to a flatbed machine is a pretty impractical task in a full workshop, and certainly not a 1 man job.
** We concluded we could store a lot of sheet material in 4' x 4' and 600 x 900 for the router and laser respectively (and for general use), making storage much more tractable and avoiding the need to cut down such large sheets.
* decent software

Maybe a Vacuum bed
* Would make jobs quicker to setup (except vacuum beds sometimes require a custom 'mask' cutting to cover all the unused holes)
* avoids risk of hitting clamps/bolts
* Will be more expensive (new mask needed for each job?)
* Unsure how "magical" a solution it is

== Options ==

Shopbot
* The defacto FabLab CNC router
* Would be from the [[http://www.shopbottools.com/mProducts/prSstandard.htm PRS Standard Range]]
* Prices are roughly $11500 and $13000 for the 4x4 and 8x4 models
* Ship from US (no distributors), by air or sea, and import duties etc payable
* Quote from Shopbot: approx $15k/£10k + shipping/taxes for 4x4, 8x8 would be approx £2k more

Piranha
* Look like imports, sold by radecal
* Include internal vacuum bed
* Available in 4x4 and 4x8. 4x4 and 4x8 both listed as weighing 800kg.
* 4x8: http://www.radecalmachinesales.com/product.asp?cid=2&scid=&pid=18
* 4x4: http://www.radecalmachinesales.com/product.asp?cid=2&scid=&pid=70
* Quote from radecal: TBC (guessing about £13k and £18k)

HPC Laser CNC
* Not clear what is available or specs; assume it is china import again, but could be interesting to go with HPC given great service
* 1200x1200 looks like it might be: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HPC-CNC-router-1200-x1200-engraver-CNC-Machine-sign-making-UK-stock-/150966295622

Others
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| Machine
|URL
|Price (UKP)
|Size - X
|Size - Y
|Size - Z
|Weight
|Notes
|-
|Heiz S400
|[http://www.prototools.co.uk/shop/customer/product.php?productid=18501&cat=0 link]
|£1595
|400
|300
|110
|31kg
|
|-
|Heiz S720
|[http://www.prototools.co.uk/shop/customer/product.php?productid=18502&cat=0 link]
|£1995
|720
|420
|110
|41kg
|Videos - [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SRSObYk_W0 Making PCB][http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjPLXCr1g5E Machining metal][http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3snGuqixEg Engraving in wood]
|-
|Heiz S1000
|[http://www.prototools.co.uk/shop/customer/product.php?productid=18503&cat=521&page=1 link]
|£2395
|1000
|600
|110
|51kg
|£4012 including all options and VAT
|-
|HPCLaser RC6090
|[http://www.lasermachinemaker.com/5-2-advertising-cnc-router.html link]
|£3750+VAT
|600
|900
|65
|200kg
|Up to 24000rpm, 30mm cutting thickness. From same supplier as Laser cutter. Upgraded spindle from one listed. Claimed accuracy of 10 micron.
|-
|}
Weight gives an indication of stiffness and quality for a given size of machine. Shopbots weight is not listed

Equipment/CNC Router

2013-05-12T10:17:58Z

ST: moving historical notes to talk page

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / CNC Router

[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg|thumb|460px|right|CNC Router]]

== Summary ==

A CNC router is a computer controlled shaping machine. These are related to the hand held router. Instead of hand held routing, the tool paths can be controlled via computer numerical control. It is a computer-controlled machine for cutting various hard materials, such as wood, composites, aluminum, steel, plastics, and foams. It is one of many kinds of tools that have CNC variants. A CNC router is very similar in concept to a CNC milling machine. The CNC router is controlled by a computer. Coordinates are uploaded into the machine controller from a separate CAD program

* Capacity: 1200 x 1200 x 120mm
* Rate (X,Y): 6000mm/min (Max) 5000mm/min (Working)
* Rate (Z): 30mm/sec
* Spindle Speed: 4500 to 24000rpm
* Mechanical Precision: 0.01mm
* Spindle Power: 1.5KW Variable Speed, Water-cooled
* Blade Diameter: min 3.175mm, max 12.7mm
* Order Format: HPGL, G code, u00, mmg, plt
* Control System: DSP with USB connection

Here are some examples we've made on the Model Mill (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:WP_20130509_004.jpg
</gallery>

= Using the CNC Router =
== Owners ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the equipment, organising maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the CNC Router are:

* Stephen Woolhead
* Chris Abri
* Mark Mellors
* Dave Ansell
* David Bebb
* Simon Sitrley

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the Model Mill, please use the mailing list thread:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/rkchD7VqM2c/discussion Log : CNC Router]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE CNC ROUTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/CNC_Router/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the model mill and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Model Mill Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router/Training|CNC Router Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

The CNC Router is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the CNC Router are:
* '''ONLY USE THE CNC ROUTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE CNC ROUTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''FIRE''' - Cutting with the wrong settings could result in the material igniting.

'''TRAPPING''' - Stand clear of the machine while in motion.

'''DUST''' - Ensure extraction system is working.

'''NOISE''' - Ensure that you wear the correct PPE when working with the machine for prolonged periods.

== Instructions ==

[http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MPC6610_CNC_Router_Manual_v1.0-En.pdf Router Manual]

== Feeds & Speeds ==

== Tips & Tricks ==

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the CNC Routeris carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

== Maintenance Log ==

Installed on 9th May 2013.

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

* Cutters
* Sacrificial Bed (1.2m x 1.2m 12mm MDF)

= Further Information =

== Installation ==

Installed on 9th May 2013.

<gallery>
File:WP_20130509_005.jpg
File:CNC_Router_controller_1.jpg
File:CNC_Router_controller_2.jpg
</gallery>

== Purchase ==
Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£?????)

== Notes ==

http://www.shopbottools.com/mProducts/prSstandard.htm

User:ST

2013-05-10T13:36:48Z

ST:

===Things I can do/help out with===

* the [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* programming: Python and Fortran(90+) mainly
* asking many curious questions :-)

===Projects started:===

* a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1514 puzzle box]
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|cutting]] stickers out of vinyl, such as kodamas and totoros
* laser-cutting [[File:Croc-small.jpg|crocodiles|50px]] and [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14544 other reptiles]
* the [[Infrastructure/Plants|plants]] in the entrance hallway

===Things I want to do:===

* learn how to do electronics
* silver/glass pendants
* ...

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-05-08T15:20:28Z

ST: /* Avoiding Tool Damage */ bold

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench

[[File:fine_metalwork_bench.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

=Summary=

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

= Using the fine metalwork bench =

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, S.

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to '''avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking''' (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, '''this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold''': especially not for steel, iron, or lead.

Some of the tools have '''polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged''', e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important '''not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another''': particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

==Tools==

===Workholding===
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

===Files and saws===
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

===Hammering===
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

===Pliers and tweezers===
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

===Soldering===
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_soldering.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

===Marking out===
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

===Magnification===
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

===Flexible shaft drill tools===
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

== To do ==
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from training (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

= How To =

=== Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

=== Soldering ===

TODO

=== Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== Planishing ===

TODO

=== Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO

Equipment/Fine metalwork bench

2013-05-08T15:17:07Z

ST: /* Magnification */ fixed image

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Fine metalwork bench

[[File:fine_metalwork_bench.jpg|thumb|460px|right]]

=Summary=

This is a bench and hand tools for fine non-ferrous metalwork, e.g. for silver jewelry-scale making. We also have a [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]] at the same bench.

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

= Using the fine metalwork bench =

==Owners==

[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]]

==Trained==

AH, HW, S.

== Health and Safety ==

[[Formal Risk Assessment: Fine Metalwork Hand Tools and Silver Soldering]]

The gas torch and gas canisters (standard lighter gas) should be kept in the flammable stock cupboard in the workshop when not in use.

The gas torch should only be refilled in the open air, as there can be gas leakage in the process. It should only be used at the hot-working bench above the insulated sheet.

The pickle is a mild corrosive, and hot items should not be dropped directly into it or else there may be splashes that could cause eye damage. The pickle should not be warmed except in use.

== Avoiding Tool Damage ==

It is vital to avoid contamination of the tools for fine metalworking (on silver, copper, or titanium) with particles of iron, steel, or lead, otherwise pieces can be ruined when they are soldered. Accordingly, this bench and the fine metalworking tools must not be used on any materials except silver, copper, titanium, or gold: especially not for steel, iron, or lead.

Some of the tools have polished or machined surfaces that are easily damaged, e.g. the planishing hammer, triblet, and bench block. These must not be used for hitting anything other than silver, copper, or titanium (especially, do not use the planishing hammer for hitting a punch, and take great care when hammering something on the triblet or bench block not to let the hammer come in contact with those).

It's important not to contaminate one grade of abrasive with another: particles of coarse abrasive on a fine polishing wheel can scratch a piece heavily.

All the fine metalworking tools must be put away in the right place (the correct drawer of the grey filing cabinet, as labelled) after use.

==Consumables and Stock (to pay by use)==

We keep a small amount of silver and copper stock for people to get started with (copper behaves a lot like silver, so is good for practicing).
If you use any of the following, please (a) write in the
fine-metalworking stock book the thing and the amount you've used, your name, and the cost, and
(b) put the cost in the MakeSpace cashbox. If we're close to running out, please let the owners know. The prices below are designed to just break even, not make a profit.

If you want to buy your own stock or tools, UK suppliers include Cookson [http://www.cooksongold.com/], Sutton Tools [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/] and HS Walsh [http://www.hswalsh.com]. It might well be worth clubbing together with other people to get volume discounts and share shipping. Copper and brass sheet can also be found at
Mackay's in Cambridge [http://www.mackay.co.uk/Metals-Warehouse.html].

* Saw blades: £0.30 each, per broken sawblade or if you want your own.
* Abrasive paper: £0.75 per sheet or £0.20 per quarter sheet
* Small drills: £1.00 per broken drill (the set of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm is around £14 + shipping)
* Copper sheet 24 SWG (0.56mm): £0.04 per square cm
* Copper sheet 20 SWG (0.91mm): £0.05 per square cm
* Sterling Silver Sheet 1.00mm: £1.00 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £46 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Sheet 0.50mm: £0.50 per square cm (measuring the aligned bounding box) (cost is £25 for 75x75mm)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost is £14.24 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.70mm: £0.05 per cm (cost £3.52 per 1m)
* Sterling Silver Round Wire 0.50mm: £0.03 per cm (cost £3.52 per 2m)
* Sterling Silver Square Wire 1.00mm: £0.10 per cm (cost £4.34 per 0.5m)
* Sterling Silver Hook Wire (NVK 023X): £1.30 per pair
* Sterling Silver Ear Pin, 11.1 X 0.8 (NVJ 102X): £0.10 each
* Sterling Silver Scrolls 110: £0.15 each
* Sterling Silver Round Snake Chain 18"/45cm 1.2mm (VVO R12H): £5.50
* Silver 1.6mm Snake Chain 18"/45cm (VV3 80H): £6.00

==Other Consumables==
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61 per tube, but a tube lasts a long time) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]
* polish and polishing wheels (buy your own if making substantial use of these)
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder (£6 for 150g)
* Diamond burrs (£4.80 for set of 30)

==Tools==

===Workholding===
* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]

===Files and saws===
* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
* Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
* 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
* Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70) (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)
* Straight 7"/17.5cm Shears (£12.54) (for brutal cutting of sheet metal. It's usually preferable to use a saw instead, to leave a square edge without bending the metal)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_saws_and_files.jpg|300px]]

===Hammering===
* Flat Stake (this is a small anvil with a machined-smooth surface on all sides) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Flat-Stake---10cm-X-10cm-prcode-999-795]
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Round-1640cm-Steel-Triblet-prcode-999-820]
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Planishing-Hammer-Cookson-Value-Range-prcode-997-3111] (on back-order)
* Rawhide mallet [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Rawhide-Mallet-Size-2-1-Head-Diameter-prcode-999-603] (for hitting things without marking the surface)
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_hammers.jpg|300px]]

===Pliers and tweezers===
* Cookson 5 Piece,115mm Pliers Set (box-jointed with smooth jaws)
* Ring Bending Pliers, Cookson Value Range
* 5.5"/ 140mm Maun Flat Pliers Parallel Action [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/5.5-140mm-Maun-Flat-Pliers-Parallel-Action-prcode-999-644]
* Tweezer set [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Workbench-Tweezer-Set-6-Pieces-prcode-999-096N] (brass and plastic tweezers for pickle, reverse and third-hand tweezers for soldering, fine tweezers for manipulating tiny things)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_pliers.jpg|300px]]

===Soldering===
* Hand Torch [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Torch-Please-Note-Jewellers-Torch-Is-Supplied-Without-Gas-prcode-999-955] (for soldering or annealing small pieces, up to 10-20mm. We also have a larger torch with the glassworking kit)
* Magnesia Soldering Block [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Magnesia-Soldering-Block-prcode-999-974]
* Soldering Sheet 300mm X 300mm X 9mm [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Soldering-Sheet-300mm-X-300mm-X-9mm-Asbestos--Substitute-prcode-999-969]
* Picklean Safe Pickling Powder 150g [http://www.cooksongold.com/Precious-Metal-Clay/Picklean-Safe-Pickling-Powder-150g-prcode-855-1060]
* crock pot for keeping pickle warm
* hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075] (consumable) (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)

[[Image:fine_metalwork_soldering.jpg|300px]] [[Image:fine_metalwork_pickle_pot.jpg|300px]]

===Marking out===
* 150mm Ruler * 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-metric-stainless-rule-prod22753/]
* Standard Steel Scriber [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-basic-scriber-prod22757/]
* centre punch [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-centre-punch-square-head-prod23024/]
* digital calipers [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-digital-electronic-calipers-prod20296/]
* 3" square [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3-Steel-Square-prcode-999-583&p=gs?gclid=CJKfvby477UCFcLHtAodMHIAyg]

[[Image:fine_metalwork_marking_out.jpg|300px]]

===Magnification===
* Optivisor 2.0x No5 (NB: this is *not* eye protection)
[[Image:Fine_metalwork_optivisor.jpg|300px]]

===Flexible shaft drill tools===
* Polishing Kit No 2 [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Polishing-Kit-No-2-prcode-999-096E]
* Set Of 20 Drills 0.3-1.6mm (£15.96) (consumable) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Set-Of-20-Drills-0.3-1.6mm-prcode-999-CH5]
* diamond burrs (set of 30) (4.80) (consumable) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-diamond-30-piece-burr-set-prod21887/?searchfor=diamond%20burrs]

[[Image:flexible_shaft_tools.jpg|300px]]

== To do ==
* get one or two adjustable desk lamps, perhaps with magnifier
* get another file, either another 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe or a similar half-round
* get a joint cutter, either [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Special-Joint-Filing-Tool---Chenier-Cutter-prcode-999-597] £58 from cookson or a cheap one [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] £15 from Sutton Tools.
* get some dividers
* raise the bench somewhat and fix to the wall

= Gallery =

Please do add pictures of anything made using the fine metalwork tools. Here are some practice pieces from training (2013-05-12, AH, HW, S.):

[[Image:gallery1.jpg|300px]] [[Image:gallery2.jpg|300px]]

= How To =

=== Jeweller's Saws ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Jeweller's saws have a thin flexible blade held under tension by a saw frame.

The blades come in different grades, from 4 (the coarsest) to 8/0 (the
finest). In general one wants a coarse blade for cutting thick metal
and a fine blade for cutting thin metal, and for tight curves. Fine
blades are also more fragile.
* Grade 2/0 is a normal (medium) blade, with thickness 0.26mm, width 0.52mm, and 22 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.55mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.5 to 1.0mm thick.
* Grade 6/0 is a rather fine blade, with thickness 0.18mm, width 0.35mm, and 32 teeth per cm. The drill size for piercing is 0.4mm. These are ok for cutting metal from 0.3mm to 0.5mm thick.

The saw frames have adjustable length. To fit a blade, loosen the
knob that fixes the length and shorten the saw to be just shorter than
a blade. Loosen the knobs at the ends that grip the blade, remove any
broken blade fragments (and throw them away properly), insert the
blade ends, and tighten the knobs (just finger-tight - you can strip
the threads if you use too much force). The blade should be oriented
with the teeth pointing towards the handle - if you run your finger
(gently!) along the blade away from the handle, it should catch. Then
tension the frame so that the blade rings a little when plucked, and
tighten the associated knob - again, just finger-tight.

To use the saw, first arrange the workpiece (with your cutting line
marked) so that it is supported very close (within a couple of mm) to
the cut, and so that you can hold it down firmly (so it doesn't
vibrate). Usually you can put it on the edge or end of a bench peg.
Then arrange your chair so that your dominant hand and arm are in a
vertical plane, with your forearm perpendicular to the bench. The saw
cuts away from you, and usually one controls the direction of cutting
by moving the workpiece rather than moving yourself. Hold the saw
lightly with the blade vertical, and cut with an up-and-down motion.
To get a cut started, sometimes it's helpful to take a short stroke
upwards, keeping the blade in the right place with a finger next to it
or behind it. Now cut! Keep the saw vertical, and remember that it
cuts on the down-stroke. You shouldn't need to push very hard at all,
either down or forwards.

If you need to cut around a sharp corner, remember to keep cutting,
otherwise the blade will break. And don't twist the saw sideways in
the cut, otherwise the blade will break. And if it jams, unjam it
gently, otherwise the blade will break.

To start a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to drill a clearance
hold at least as big as the size above, depending which grade blade
you're using. Then thread the blade through the piece when fitting
it.

=== Jeweller's Files ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
Cut 2. Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
general-purpose grade.

Remember: files cut on the push stroke.

It's often useful to put the flat file on the bench, hold it in place,
and move a workpiece along the file (the file cuts when the workpiece
is moved towards the tang), especially when filing a straight or
gentle curve saw-cut smooth. Because of this, it doesn't have a
handle - but that does mean that when filing free-hand, one must be
careful not to push the tang of the file into the palm of your hand,
if the file suddenly becomes stuck on something.

Filing the edge of a piece of sheet square will usually leave a tiny
burr of metal along each corner of the edge, which should be removed
with the file or with abrasive paper.

To make a rounded edge or corner, it's often best to first file off a
small flat at 45 degrees (so one can easily control the size of the
flat) and then smooth off.

=== Abrasive Papers ===

These should only be used on silver, copper, or titanium, *not on
steel, iron, lead, or aluminium*, otherwise silver pieces may be
permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.

Abrasive paper comes in grades from 200 (very coarse) through to 1500
(very fine). To smooth a surface or edge, one usually wants to start
from (say) grade 600 and then work down through successively finer
grades. It's usually good to cuts in a particular direction for one
grade, then at 90 degrees to that with the next grade until all the
scratches from the preceding grade are gone. It's often useful to
support the abrasive paper on the bench, moving the workpiece against
it, or wrap it around a piece of wood or scrap metal.

=== Soldering ===

TODO

=== Making Jump Rings ===

TODO

=== Planishing ===

TODO

=== Using the Ring Mandrel ===

TODO