Makespace - User contributions [en]

Equipment/Glassworking/Training

2018-02-21T11:15:04Z

Tomoinn: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment]] / [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking]] / Training

= Glassworking Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the hot torch and glass kiln to make glass beads, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

Training on the Glassworking is run by the Glassworking Owners. The Glassworking Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the glass kiln and torch, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the glass kiln.

== Booking ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots if needed, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/1yqeTSc8m6s/discussion Glass Kiln training]

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to three at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day
* Until we've cleared the backlog, please consider other members, and only sign up for an induction when you actually have something in mind you want to make in the glass kiln, not just because you want to be trained on and able to use everything (don't worry, you ''will'' get trained eventually!)

= Trained Users =

The following members of Makespace are owners of the glassworking stuff, so are trained to use and teach use of Glassworking. THis does not mean they are actually available for teaching at present!!!

Contact "glasskiln" at makespace if you'd like training or wish to become a trainer etc.

* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]] (Taking a break, probably will return later in 2016!)
* Renee Chow (now back in Australia)
* [[User:ST|ST]] (No longer a member AFAICT)
* Laura James
* [[User:Ennui2342|Mark Cheverton]] - not sure if Mark is up for training people on the torch?
* Duncan Purvis

The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the glass kiln and torch (note, they are not qualified to train others however):

{| class="wikitable"
|+Trained Members
!Member!!Date!!By!!Notes
|-
|David Bebb|| || ||
|-
|Roeland Schumacher|| || ||
|-
|Hannah Wray|| || ||
|-
|Indy Wilkhu|| || ||
|-
|J. Antonio Barragan|| || ||
|-
|Pop Sharma||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]] ||
|-
|Shareef Jalloq||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]] ||
|-
|Armando Carlone||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]] ||
|-
|Laura James||03/2014||Renee ||
|-
|Al Napp||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Brian Starkey||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Toby Moncaster||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Luke Twydell||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Kim Spence-Jones||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|[[User:Ennui2342|Mark Cheverton]]||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Jae Chipko||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|John Clarke||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Duncan Purvis||25/05/2016|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Cong Cong Bo||25/05/2016|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|FRA73 (Francesca maybe? Please use your real name on meetup!)||25/05/2016|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Izzie Byers||17/02/2017|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Johan Henriksson||17/02/2017|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Jenny Walsh||25/03/2017|||Andy||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Claire Mayne||20/10/2017|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Abi wills||20/10/2017|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Miguel Morin||20/10/2017|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Jeanette Friggebo||20/10/2017|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|}

Note - if you've been trained to use the torch and to anneal beads in the kiln you should be okay to use the kiln for other glasswork, but please read up on how to cut glass safely and check instructions in the kiln manual. If you've only been trained on the kiln (for stripwork, slumps, fused techniques) please don't use the torch without checking with the owners first - there are safety precautions specific to the torch that aren't necessarily obvious.

= Training Cheatsheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the Glassworking Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

Glass Bead making inductions:

Torch:
Three taps. Open all three to work with torch. Close all three after you finish. Do not overtighten or you’ll damage the thread.
1st tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (arrow embossed in tap)
2nd tap: clockwise open. counterclockwise close (label on tap)
3rd tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (direction inscribed in brass tap)
For safety, smell for leaking gas in case last person forgot to close the taps.
Post online and email owners when gas is running low.
Please do not reach over the flame or try to stand up while the flame is still turned on! – Make sure you have everything within reach before you start.

Kiln:
Kiln instructions booklet found in box below table.
For annealing, use program 1.
Be careful not to knock the thermocouple at the back of the kiln.
Allow the bead to cool slightly before putting it in the kiln – if very hot glass touches kiln walls/shelf it can stick.
In annealing program, kiln cools at 222 degrees C/hr until shut off. Try to be around during shut off time. If you can’t, at least make sure that the kiln has completed its program before you head home for the night.
You can add your own program under program 3. If you accidentally change settings for program 1 please re-enter settings for bead annealing as described in instructions book or let us know if you have problems.
Using kiln for fusing glass – go ahead if you know how to do it. If not, inductions will come later. Please only use glue suitable for kilns (eg. Superglue contains cyanide and will release cyanide gas). RapidFire Paper/Powders – wear gas masks and clean the kiln shelves outdoors.

Glass:
Explain compatibility of glass - COE and viscosity. Bullseye sells glass that is COE 90 compatible and not COE 90 compatible. Smaller brands selling COE 90 will advertise their glass as either Bullseye compatible (they’ve tested it), or just COE 90 (they haven’t tested it, but it’s probably ok).
If you use your own glass that is not Bullseye COE 90, please make sure it doesn’t get mixed up with the stock glass.

Demonstrate how to make a glass bead: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

Pulling hot glass rods away from the flame quickly will cause long tapers in the glass rod. Round off glass rods before putting them away as thin long ends of glass can snap off and leave a sharp point.

Thermoshock. Heat glass slowly and cool glass slowly to avoid thermoshock. Keep glass pointed away from you when you heat or cool glass. Make sure people watching are doing so far away or are seated behind you. If your rod gets bent while you are working with it, straighten it while it is hot before letting it cool and putting it away. This makes it easier to guess the direction the bits of glass will fly if it thermoshocks. Careful not to let your bead cool too much too quickly when you are working with it or it can thermoshock. – For the most part the penetration force of the bits of flying glass is low, but the glass can be sharp and hot, causing minor cuts and very small third degree burns. Clean any glass shards on floor with dustpan provided.

Cutting glass. Place glass on flat surface. Use even pressure to score glass. Use glass breaker to apply pressure to the middle of the score line. Clean surface afterwards with damp kitchen towel to remove tiny glass shards that may be difficult to see by eye.

Mandrels:
Be careful as thin mandrels bend easily.

Safety equipment:
Close covered shoes
Safety glasses to cut sodium flare
Safety glasses to look into hot kiln
Gloves for opening kiln door

Costing:
See diagram on wall.

Burns:
Use cold running water for 20min. If it’s really bad, wrap in cling film and go to hospital.

Useful articles to send to people who have been inducted:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

Task
* make a bead

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed through making a bead (watch carefully all steps)

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Add to the trained member list!

Equipment/Glassworking/Training

2016-06-05T11:41:47Z

Tomoinn: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment]] / [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking]] / Training

= Glassworking Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the hot torch and glass kiln to make glass beads, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

Training on the Glassworking is run by the Glassworking Owners. The Glassworking Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the glass kiln and torch, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the glass kiln.

== Booking ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots if needed, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/1yqeTSc8m6s/discussion Glass Kiln training]

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to three at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day
* Until we've cleared the backlog, please consider other members, and only sign up for an induction when you actually have something in mind you want to make in the glass kiln, not just because you want to be trained on and able to use everything (don't worry, you ''will'' get trained eventually!)

= Trained Users =

The following members of Makespace are owners of the glassworking stuff, so are trained to use and teach use of Glassworking:
* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]] (Taking a break, probably will return later in 2016!)
* Renee Chow (now back in Australia)
* [[User:ST|ST]] (No longer a member AFAICT)
* [[User:Ennui2342|Mark Cheverton]] - not sure if Mark is up for training people on the torch?
* Duncan Purvis

The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the glass kiln and torch (note, they are not qualified to train others however):

{| class="wikitable"
|+Trained Members
!Member!!Date!!By!!Notes
|-
|David Bebb|| || ||
|-
|Roeland Schumacher|| || ||
|-
|Hannah Wray|| || ||
|-
|Indy Wilkhu|| || ||
|-
|J. Antonio Barragan|| || ||
|-
|Pop Sharma||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]] ||
|-
|Shareef Jalloq||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]] ||
|-
|Armando Carlone||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]] ||
|-
|Laura James||03/2014||Renee ||
|-
|Al Napp||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Brian Starkey||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Toby Moncaster||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Luke Twydell||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Kim Spence-Jones||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|[[User:Ennui2342|Mark Cheverton]]||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Jae Chipko||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|John Clarke||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Duncan Purvis||25/05/2016|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Cong Cong Bo||25/05/2016|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|FRA73 (Francesca maybe? Please use your real name on meetup!)||25/05/2016|||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|}

Note - if you've been trained to use the torch and to anneal beads in the kiln you should be okay to use the kiln for other glasswork, but please read up on how to cut glass safely and check instructions in the kiln manual. If you've only been trained on the kiln (for stripwork, slumps, fused techniques) please don't use the torch without checking with the owners first - there are safety precautions specific to the torch that aren't necessarily obvious.

= Training Cheatsheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the Glassworking Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

Glass Bead making inductions:

Torch:
Three taps. Open all three to work with torch. Close all three after you finish. Do not overtighten or you’ll damage the thread.
1st tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (arrow embossed in tap)
2nd tap: clockwise open. counterclockwise close (label on tap)
3rd tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (direction inscribed in brass tap)
For safety, smell for leaking gas in case last person forgot to close the taps.
Post online and email owners when gas is running low.
Please do not reach over the flame or try to stand up while the flame is still turned on! – Make sure you have everything within reach before you start.

Kiln:
Kiln instructions booklet found in box below table.
For annealing, use program 1.
Be careful not to knock the thermocouple at the back of the kiln.
Allow the bead to cool slightly before putting it in the kiln – if very hot glass touches kiln walls/shelf it can stick.
In annealing program, kiln cools at 222 degrees C/hr until shut off. Try to be around during shut off time. If you can’t, at least make sure that the kiln has completed its program before you head home for the night.
You can add your own program under program 3. If you accidentally change settings for program 1 please re-enter settings for bead annealing as described in instructions book or let us know if you have problems.
Using kiln for fusing glass – go ahead if you know how to do it. If not, inductions will come later. Please only use glue suitable for kilns (eg. Superglue contains cyanide and will release cyanide gas). RapidFire Paper/Powders – wear gas masks and clean the kiln shelves outdoors.

Glass:
Explain compatibility of glass - COE and viscosity. Bullseye sells glass that is COE 90 compatible and not COE 90 compatible. Smaller brands selling COE 90 will advertise their glass as either Bullseye compatible (they’ve tested it), or just COE 90 (they haven’t tested it, but it’s probably ok).
If you use your own glass that is not Bullseye COE 90, please make sure it doesn’t get mixed up with the stock glass.

Demonstrate how to make a glass bead: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

Pulling hot glass rods away from the flame quickly will cause long tapers in the glass rod. Round off glass rods before putting them away as thin long ends of glass can snap off and leave a sharp point.

Thermoshock. Heat glass slowly and cool glass slowly to avoid thermoshock. Keep glass pointed away from you when you heat or cool glass. Make sure people watching are doing so far away or are seated behind you. If your rod gets bent while you are working with it, straighten it while it is hot before letting it cool and putting it away. This makes it easier to guess the direction the bits of glass will fly if it thermoshocks. Careful not to let your bead cool too much too quickly when you are working with it or it can thermoshock. – For the most part the penetration force of the bits of flying glass is low, but the glass can be sharp and hot, causing minor cuts and very small third degree burns. Clean any glass shards on floor with dustpan provided.

Cutting glass. Place glass on flat surface. Use even pressure to score glass. Use glass breaker to apply pressure to the middle of the score line. Clean surface afterwards with damp kitchen towel to remove tiny glass shards that may be difficult to see by eye.

Mandrels:
Be careful as thin mandrels bend easily.

Safety equipment:
Close covered shoes
Safety glasses to cut sodium flare
Safety glasses to look into hot kiln
Gloves for opening kiln door

Costing:
See diagram on wall.

Burns:
Use cold running water for 20min. If it’s really bad, wrap in cling film and go to hospital.

Useful articles to send to people who have been inducted:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

Task
* make a bead

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed through making a bead (watch carefully all steps)

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Add to the trained member list!

Equipment/Computer CAD Workstation

2015-12-21T16:17:26Z

Tomoinn:

{{GreenTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Computers (CAD Workstation)

= Introduction =

The big Dell computer with the 30 inch monitor is our CAD workstation.

== Owners ==

* [[user:Tomoinn | Tom Oinn]]

== Important stuff ==

The workstation is protected by [http://www.faronics.com/en-uk/products/deep-freeze/standard/ Deep Freeze]. This means that any changes you make will not be retained over a reboot. This includes any files that are not stored in the J: drive (on the desktop as *ThawSpace*). Any files not in this specific place will disappear whenever the machine is restarted. This also means that while you're welcome to use the admin account (the password is 'admin') to make changes to the configuration, add software, delete the windows partition etc, any such changes will *also* not be retained.

The SpaceMouse is a 3d mouse - it's excellent for manipulating CAD models in software that supports it. Because it's a precision input device, and because MakeSpace is a bit dusty at the best of times, it should be unplugged from USB and replaced in its soft case (the thing that looks a bit like a bike saddle cover) after use. If it's not out on the desk it should be in one of the drawers. If it's not there either it's been stolen - please report it!

== Software ==

We have a limited selection of CAD software installed already, the easiest way to check is to click on the windows icon and see what pops up in the shortcut menu. As of 21/12/2015 we appear to have:

* Cura 15.04.3
* Inkscape 0.91
* Eagle (community edition) 7.4.0
* SketchUp
* OpenSCAD
* Rhino 5
* Autodesk Fusion 360

In addition to these we have Chrome installed, and can confirm that Onshape (web based parametric CAD) works with the SpaceMouse.

To request more software, or to report issues, please either use the mailing list (preferable) or email the owners on [mailto:computers@makespace.org computers@makespace.org]

== Connecting your laptop / pi / etc ==

There should be a free USB and DisplayPort cable just to the right of the monitor, connect your laptop here and use the USB switcher to connect the mouse etc to it. Please don't unplug anything!

== Specification ==

* [http://www.dell.com/us/dfb/p/precision-t7400/pd Dell Precision T7400] with 2 x 3.0Ghz [http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Xeon+X5472+%40+3.00GHz X5472] Xeon processors
* 4GB RAM
* Mechanical disk of some kind (we plan to upgrade this to an SSD)
* [http://www.geforce.co.uk/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-460 GeForce GTX 460 GPU]
* [http://www1.euro.dell.com/uk/en/home/Peripherals/dell-u3014/pd.aspx?refid=dell-u3014&cs=ukdhs1&s=dhs Dell U3014 monitor]
* [http://www.3dconnexion.co.uk/products/spacemouse/spacemousepro.html 3DConnexion SpaceMouse Pro]
* [http://www.3dconnexion.co.uk/products/cadmouse.html 3DConnexion CADMouse]
* [http://www.ttesports.com/Keyboard/13/MEKA_G1/productPage.htm?a=a&g=ftr Keyboard (Thermaltake eSports MEGA G1)]

Equipment

2015-12-21T16:15:31Z

Tomoinn: /* The Space */

[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]

The equipment you can find in Makespace.

== Using our Equipment ==

There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.

Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Honesty boxes]].

[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.

Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.

'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].

== The Workshop ==

* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe - Myford]]
* [[Equipment/Sherline lathe|Lathe - Sherline]] (This is not commissioned and at the moment is unavailable for use)
* Metalwork Benches
* [[Equipment/Sherline mill|Mill - Sherline ]] (This is not commissioned and at the moment is unavailable for use)
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]
* Woodwork Benches
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]] (This is not commissioned and at the moment is unavailable for use)
* [[Equipment/Router|Router and router table]] (This is not commissioned and at the moment is unavailable for use)

== The Space ==

* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer_SLA|3D Printer (SLA)]]
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill|PCB Mill]]
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]
* General Tools
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]
* [[Equipment/Plotter|HP 750C A0 Plotter]]
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]
* [[Equipment/Computer_CAD_Workstation|CAD Workstation]]

== Craft area ==
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]
* large table for cutting or working at
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]
* PC with CAD software, scanner and link to Vinyl cutter
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]

== Classroom ==
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]

== Proposals and Notes ==

* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]
* [[Equipment/3D Scanner|3D Scanner]]

== Related ==
* [[OwnersPage|List of owners and their duties]]
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]

Equipment/Computer CAD Workstation

2015-12-21T16:14:35Z

Tomoinn: Created page with "{{GreenTool}} Equipment / Computers (CAD Workstation) = Introduction = The big Dell computer with the 30 inch monitor is our CAD workstation. == Owners == *..."

{{GreenTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Computers (CAD Workstation)

= Introduction =

The big Dell computer with the 30 inch monitor is our CAD workstation.

== Owners ==

* [[user:Tomoinn | Tom Oinn]]

== Important stuff ==

The workstation is protected by [http://www.faronics.com/en-uk/products/deep-freeze/standard/ Deep Freeze]. This means that any changes you make will not be retained over a reboot. This includes any files that are not stored in the J: drive (on the desktop as *ThawSpace*). Any files not in this specific place will disappear whenever the machine is restarted. This also means that while you're welcome to use the admin account (the password is 'admin') to make changes to the configuration, add software, delete the windows partition etc, any such changes will *also* not be retained.

== Software ==

We have a limited selection of CAD software installed already, the easiest way to check is to click on the windows icon and see what pops up in the shortcut menu. As of 21/12/2015 we appear to have:

* Cura 15.04.3
* Inkscape 0.91
* Eagle (community edition) 7.4.0
* SketchUp
* OpenSCAD
* Rhino 5
* Autodesk Fusion 360

In addition to these we have Chrome installed, and can confirm that Onshape (web based parametric CAD) works with the SpaceMouse.

To request more software, or to report issues, please either use the mailing list (preferable) or email the owners on [mailto:computers@makespace.org computers@makespace.org]

== Connecting your laptop / pi / etc ==

There should be a free USB and DisplayPort cable just to the right of the monitor, connect your laptop here and use the USB switcher to connect the mouse etc to it. Please don't unplug anything!

== Specification ==

* [http://www.dell.com/us/dfb/p/precision-t7400/pd Dell Precision T7400] with 2 x 3.0Ghz [http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Xeon+X5472+%40+3.00GHz X5472] Xeon processors
* 4GB RAM
* Mechanical disk of some kind (we plan to upgrade this to an SSD)
* [http://www.geforce.co.uk/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-460 GeForce GTX 460 GPU]
* [http://www1.euro.dell.com/uk/en/home/Peripherals/dell-u3014/pd.aspx?refid=dell-u3014&cs=ukdhs1&s=dhs Dell U3014 monitor]
* [http://www.3dconnexion.co.uk/products/spacemouse/spacemousepro.html 3DConnexion SpaceMouse Pro]
* [http://www.3dconnexion.co.uk/products/cadmouse.html 3DConnexion CADMouse]
* [http://www.ttesports.com/Keyboard/13/MEKA_G1/productPage.htm?a=a&g=ftr Keyboard (Thermaltake eSports MEGA G1)]

Equipment/Glassworking/Training

2015-02-16T12:40:17Z

Tomoinn: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment]] / [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking]] / Training

= Glassworking Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the hot torch and glass kiln to make glass beads, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

Training on the Glassworking is run by the Glassworking Owners. The Glassworking Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the glass kiln and torch, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the glass kiln.

== Booking ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots if needed, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/1yqeTSc8m6s/discussion Glass Kiln training]

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to three at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day
* Until we've cleared the backlog, please consider other members, and only sign up for an induction when you actually have something in mind you want to make in the glass kiln, not just because you want to be trained on and able to use everything (don't worry, you ''will'' get trained eventually!)

= Trained Users =

The following members of Makespace are owners of the glassworking stuff, so are trained to use and teach use of Glassworking:
* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]
* Renee Chow (now back in Australia)
* [[User:ST|ST]]
* [[User:Ennui2342|Mark Cheverton]] - not sure if Mark is up for training people on the torch?

The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the glass kiln and torch (note, they are not qualified to train others however):

{| class="wikitable"
|+Trained Members
!Member!!Date!!By!!Notes
|-
|David Bebb|| || ||
|-
|Roeland Schumacher|| || ||
|-
|Hannah Wray|| || ||
|-
|Indy Wilkhu|| || ||
|-
|J. Antonio Barragan|| || ||
|-
|Pop Sharma||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]] ||
|-
|Shareef Jalloq||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]] ||
|-
|Armando Carlone||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]] ||
|-
|Laura James||03/2014||Renee ||
|-
|Al Napp||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Brian Starkey||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Toby Moncaster||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Luke Twydell||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Kim Spence-Jones||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|[[User:Ennui2342|Mark Cheverton]]||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|Jae Chipko||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|-
|John Clarke||13/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]||Flamework + Kiln basics
|}

Note - if you've been trained to use the torch and to anneal beads in the kiln you should be okay to use the kiln for other glasswork, but please read up on how to cut glass safely and check instructions in the kiln manual. If you've only been trained on the kiln (for stripwork, slumps, fused techniques) please don't use the torch without checking with the owners first - there are safety precautions specific to the torch that aren't necessarily obvious.

= Training Cheatsheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the Glassworking Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

Glass Bead making inductions:

Torch:
Three taps. Open all three to work with torch. Close all three after you finish. Do not overtighten or you’ll damage the thread.
1st tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (arrow embossed in tap)
2nd tap: clockwise open. counterclockwise close (label on tap)
3rd tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (direction inscribed in brass tap)
For safety, smell for leaking gas in case last person forgot to close the taps.
Post online and email owners when gas is running low.
Please do not reach over the flame or try to stand up while the flame is still turned on! – Make sure you have everything within reach before you start.

Kiln:
Kiln instructions booklet found in box below table.
For annealing, use program 1.
Be careful not to knock the thermocouple at the back of the kiln.
Allow the bead to cool slightly before putting it in the kiln – if very hot glass touches kiln walls/shelf it can stick.
In annealing program, kiln cools at 222 degrees C/hr until shut off. Try to be around during shut off time. If you can’t, at least make sure that the kiln has completed its program before you head home for the night.
You can add your own program under program 3. If you accidentally change settings for program 1 please re-enter settings for bead annealing as described in instructions book or let us know if you have problems.
Using kiln for fusing glass – go ahead if you know how to do it. If not, inductions will come later. Please only use glue suitable for kilns (eg. Superglue contains cyanide and will release cyanide gas). RapidFire Paper/Powders – wear gas masks and clean the kiln shelves outdoors.

Glass:
Explain compatibility of glass - COE and viscosity. Bullseye sells glass that is COE 90 compatible and not COE 90 compatible. Smaller brands selling COE 90 will advertise their glass as either Bullseye compatible (they’ve tested it), or just COE 90 (they haven’t tested it, but it’s probably ok).
If you use your own glass that is not Bullseye COE 90, please make sure it doesn’t get mixed up with the stock glass.

Demonstrate how to make a glass bead: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

Pulling hot glass rods away from the flame quickly will cause long tapers in the glass rod. Round off glass rods before putting them away as thin long ends of glass can snap off and leave a sharp point.

Thermoshock. Heat glass slowly and cool glass slowly to avoid thermoshock. Keep glass pointed away from you when you heat or cool glass. Make sure people watching are doing so far away or are seated behind you. If your rod gets bent while you are working with it, straighten it while it is hot before letting it cool and putting it away. This makes it easier to guess the direction the bits of glass will fly if it thermoshocks. Careful not to let your bead cool too much too quickly when you are working with it or it can thermoshock. – For the most part the penetration force of the bits of flying glass is low, but the glass can be sharp and hot, causing minor cuts and very small third degree burns. Clean any glass shards on floor with dustpan provided.

Cutting glass. Place glass on flat surface. Use even pressure to score glass. Use glass breaker to apply pressure to the middle of the score line. Clean surface afterwards with damp kitchen towel to remove tiny glass shards that may be difficult to see by eye.

Mandrels:
Be careful as thin mandrels bend easily.

Safety equipment:
Close covered shoes
Safety glasses to cut sodium flare
Safety glasses to look into hot kiln
Gloves for opening kiln door

Costing:
See diagram on wall.

Burns:
Use cold running water for 20min. If it’s really bad, wrap in cling film and go to hospital.

Useful articles to send to people who have been inducted:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

Task
* make a bead

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed through making a bead (watch carefully all steps)

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Add to the trained member list!

Equipment/Glassworking/Training

2015-02-12T12:37:54Z

Tomoinn: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment]] / [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking]] / Training

= Glassworking Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the hot torch and glass kiln to make glass beads, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

Training on the Glassworking is run by the Glassworking Owners. The Glassworking Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the glass kiln and torch, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the glass kiln.

== Booking ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots if needed, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/1yqeTSc8m6s/discussion Glass Kiln training]

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to three at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day
* Until we've cleared the backlog, please consider other members, and only sign up for an induction when you actually have something in mind you want to make in the glass kiln, not just because you want to be trained on and able to use everything (don't worry, you ''will'' get trained eventually!)

= Trained Users =

The following members of Makespace are owners of the glassworking stuff, so are trained to use and teach use of Glassworking:
* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]
* Renee Chow (now back in Australia)
* [[User:ST|ST]]

The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the glass kiln and torch (note, they are not qualified to train others however):

{| class="wikitable"
|+Trained Members
!Member!!Date!!By
|-
|David Bebb|| ||
|-
|Roeland Schumacher|| ||
|-
|Hannah Wray|| ||
|-
|Indy Wilkhu|| ||
|-
|J. Antonio Barragan|| ||
|-
|Pop Sharma||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]]
|-
|Shareef Jalloq||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]]
|-
|Armando Carlone||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]]
|-
|Laura James||03/2014||Renee
|-
|Al Napp||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|-
|Brian Starkey||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|-
|Toby Moncaster||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|-
|Luke Twydell||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|}

= Training Cheatsheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the Glassworking Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

Glass Bead making inductions:

Torch:
Three taps. Open all three to work with torch. Close all three after you finish. Do not overtighten or you’ll damage the thread.
1st tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (arrow embossed in tap)
2nd tap: clockwise open. counterclockwise close (label on tap)
3rd tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (direction inscribed in brass tap)
For safety, smell for leaking gas in case last person forgot to close the taps.
Post online and email owners when gas is running low.
Please do not reach over the flame or try to stand up while the flame is still turned on! – Make sure you have everything within reach before you start.

Kiln:
Kiln instructions booklet found in box below table.
For annealing, use program 1.
Be careful not to knock the thermocouple at the back of the kiln.
Allow the bead to cool slightly before putting it in the kiln – if very hot glass touches kiln walls/shelf it can stick.
In annealing program, kiln cools at 222 degrees C/hr until shut off. Try to be around during shut off time. If you can’t, at least make sure that the kiln has completed its program before you head home for the night.
You can add your own program under program 3. If you accidentally change settings for program 1 please re-enter settings for bead annealing as described in instructions book or let us know if you have problems.
Using kiln for fusing glass – go ahead if you know how to do it. If not, inductions will come later. Please only use glue suitable for kilns (eg. Superglue contains cyanide and will release cyanide gas). RapidFire Paper/Powders – wear gas masks and clean the kiln shelves outdoors.

Glass:
Explain compatibility of glass - COE and viscosity. Bullseye sells glass that is COE 90 compatible and not COE 90 compatible. Smaller brands selling COE 90 will advertise their glass as either Bullseye compatible (they’ve tested it), or just COE 90 (they haven’t tested it, but it’s probably ok).
If you use your own glass that is not Bullseye COE 90, please make sure it doesn’t get mixed up with the stock glass.

Demonstrate how to make a glass bead: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

Pulling hot glass rods away from the flame quickly will cause long tapers in the glass rod. Round off glass rods before putting them away as thin long ends of glass can snap off and leave a sharp point.

Thermoshock. Heat glass slowly and cool glass slowly to avoid thermoshock. Keep glass pointed away from you when you heat or cool glass. Make sure people watching are doing so far away or are seated behind you. If your rod gets bent while you are working with it, straighten it while it is hot before letting it cool and putting it away. This makes it easier to guess the direction the bits of glass will fly if it thermoshocks. Careful not to let your bead cool too much too quickly when you are working with it or it can thermoshock. – For the most part the penetration force of the bits of flying glass is low, but the glass can be sharp and hot, causing minor cuts and very small third degree burns. Clean any glass shards on floor with dustpan provided.

Cutting glass. Place glass on flat surface. Use even pressure to score glass. Use glass breaker to apply pressure to the middle of the score line. Clean surface afterwards with damp kitchen towel to remove tiny glass shards that may be difficult to see by eye.

Mandrels:
Be careful as thin mandrels bend easily.

Safety equipment:
Close covered shoes
Safety glasses to cut sodium flare
Safety glasses to look into hot kiln
Gloves for opening kiln door

Costing:
See diagram on wall.

Burns:
Use cold running water for 20min. If it’s really bad, wrap in cling film and go to hospital.

Useful articles to send to people who have been inducted:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

Task
* make a bead

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed through making a bead (watch carefully all steps)

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Add to the trained member list!

Equipment/Glassworking

2015-02-12T10:21:30Z

Tomoinn: /* Glassworking - General */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment]] / Glassworking

[[File:8633913103_92f52a697d_c.jpg|thumb|320px|right]]

= Glassworking - General =

== Summary ==

This is a kiln and hot torch to work with soft glass - fusing and forming rather than blowing although if there's interest in the latter let us know!

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

== Owners ==

* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]
* [[User:Ennui2342|Mark Cheverton]]
* [[User:ST|ST]]

== Booking ==

As and when the wiki is updated to support it, the calendar below will show when the kiln and torch are available for use.

{{#widget:Google Calendar
|id=usjlc86svfvpqnch5u1ket92v0@group.calendar.google.com
|color=8C500B
|id=sk9fs9tmvt9fh91gl55mvvddhs@group.calendar.google.com
|color=875509
|title=Glassworking Torch and Kiln
}}

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
YOU CAN ONLY USE THE GLASS KILN AND TORCH IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED 
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the glass kiln and torch and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training|Glassworking Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

'''[[Formal Risk Assessment: Glassworking]]'''

Glassworking involves both sharp, fragile raw materials and extreme heat. Most risks are obvious - sharp glass can cut you, and the hot torch and kiln can both burn. There are, however, a few non-obvious risks to be aware of:

# When working with the flame your glass will be glowing red hot or hotter, but very shortly after you put a rod down to work with something else the glass will cool to be visually indistinguishable from glass at room temperature. It may at this point still be hundreds of degrees centigrade! Do not pick anything up while someone is working at the torch without asking, you like your skin and want to keep it.
# Glass rods can stress-crack at the tip when heated. Point rods away from you and always wear eye protection - the glass won't travel far but you don't want it in your eyes.
# Some substances release toxic gases when heated to high temperatures
# For glass fusing, use glass that is designed for fusing. Please check the COE and compatibility of your glass.
# Please do not place flammable items near (<12 inches) the kiln. Please do not move the kiln closer to the walls.
# Wear dark grey safety glasses provided when looking into the kiln. Wear the blue safety glasses when working with the flame.
# Do not breathe in fine powders. Wear a dusk mask when mixing shelf primer, reapplying kiln shelf etc.
# Wear eye protection when cutting glass. Please clean surfaces afterwards with a damp paper towel. The tiny glass shards you get when you cut glass may be invisible to the eye but can be dangerous if it gets in your eyes.

Other risks will be covered during training - working with hot glass is perfectly safe as long as basic procedures are followed.

== Equipment ==

Our kiln is a Paragon SC2 kiln with an included bead door and window. This kiln includes a controller capable of multi-step programs with controlled rate heat up and cool down cycles. It has a maximum temperature of 1100 degrees centigrade, enough to fire some metal clays and work with most kinds of glass, but not enough to act as a metal furnace. There's an instruction booklet to use both in the box below the table.

In addition to the kiln we have a HotHead gas torch, along with the appropriate connection kit to run off bulk Propane gas rather than the normal MAPP cylinders (these burn slightly hotter, but are much more expensive as they're not available in larger quantities). The torch is mounted on a height and angle adjustable stand suitable for bead work when sitting on the low stool that should be lurking around the glassworking station.

For bead working we have a variety of mandrels, bead release that can be cooked in the flame and a wedge shaped graphite marver. Also a pot of vermiculite to slowly cool your beads so they won't break.

For art glass and strip-work we have a set of cutting tools along with a slump mould for making very small (9x9cm) glass bowls. Plus Bullseye GlasTac for sticking your pieces of glass together before you put them into the kiln. Please use only glue that is safe to heat to high temperatures - superglue, for example, should NOT be used as it releases cyanide gas (yikes!) when heated to high temperatures

It is important that these tools remain exclusively used for glass, please resist the temptation to use the cutters, pliers etc for other materials!

== Glass Stock ==

We have a selection of glass rod, sheet, stringer and frit.

The large pots of glass are bought as a random selection for about ten pounds per pot, they consist of offcuts of bullseye COE90 (coefficient of expansion, only important in as much as all glass in a particular piece should have the same number to prevent explosions!) in various thicknesses. Bullseye COE90 glass will tend to form 6mm thick sheets due to surface tension so stack your strip-work to that height.

In addition to this we have a small amount of specific colours of bullseye COE90 glass currently in clear 9x9cm sheets and larger plates of Makespace colours. We can buy at a discount from a couple of online suppliers even when ordering small quantities (a side effect of buying all the kiln and other hardware in one go!) so post to the list of you want anything in particular and we can order it.

For bead making we have a set of clear and a set of mixed coloured COE90 rods, along with tubes of frit and a selection of random stringer (1mm thick rod) glass for decoration. Prices for these are TBD, but will be printed on a sheet near the glassworking station when determined (something in the order of a pound per full rod, that would work out as around 20-40p per medium size bead, each of which would take about half an hour to make).

== Location ==

The glassworking kit is in the corner of the main workshop on the right as you come through the double doors. Work facing out into the main space when using the torch and try to keep your activities over the steel sheeting (not that we're likely to harm the concrete floor but it's easier to clean up!)

== Scheduling ==

Unlike many pieces of equipment in Makespace the kiln requires a considerable amount of uninterrupted time to run. We don't have a formal booking system in place, so for now I suggest you email the list if you propose to use it. For example, if you're doing bead work you will be spending between half an hour and two hours (depending on how many you're making) using the hot torch, with beads being placed in the kiln at a holding temperature while the others are worked in the flame, then running an annealing cycle which will cool down under computer control for a couple of hours, then cooling to ambient before the kiln becomes available for other users. It should be possible to get two runs in a day, as long as the first is done in the morning, but no more than that.

The kiln is a model which should be possible to leave unattended once you have set the digital controller to run a specific program. Before firing make sure you sign post that the kiln is hot, that there is nothing flammable near the kiln and that there is about 12 inches gap between the kiln and the walls. Please check the firing schedule - don't assume it is set to any previous settings. If you are doing anything new/are unfamiliar with the kiln, please ensure that you can be in the space for the duration of its active firing cycle - it's fine to leave once the heating elements are off and the kiln is cooling to ambient but please hang around while it's actually firing. If firing overnight please come in the next day to turn the kiln off.

= How tos =

'''Do not use the equipment if you have not been inducted!'''
'''If in doubt, consult the Kiln manual(s), and/or speak to one of the owners (or other trained users)!'''

== How to make glass beads ==

=== Preparation ===

Smell if there's any gas around (leak from the gas bottle)... If not:
# Fire up kiln
#* Turn on at the manual switch; wait for "IdLE" to appear. If it says "CpLt" press Start once.
#* Use Programme 1
#** press Review; if it shows #1, then simply press Start twice
#** if it shows some other number, consult the manual how to start Programme 1! [to be expanded]
#*** From IdLE press START (the left button) Use the Up Arrow (not the Down Arrow) to select a firing program - in this case Program 1 for annealing glass beads. Press start until the kiln starts displaying the temperature of the kiln. The clicking noise is normal.
# Get bead release to correct consistency
#* The bead release dries out over time. If it is too thick and lumpy you need to add water to it. Screw on the lid and shake the bead release well to get rid of all the lumps. It should be the consistency of a thick smoothie.
# Get everything (mandrels, tools, water bucket, glass) ready and laid out, so you don't have to bend over the hot flame to fetch it later

The final firing temperature is ~530 degrees; the kiln heats up pretty quickly, so you should be able to start working on the glass bead already.

=== Flameworking ===

For each bead:

# Coat the mandrel
#* tilt the bottle before you dip
#* dip only once, turn the mandrel while it is still in the bottle without touching the sides of the bottle
#* pull out the mandrel without touching the sides of the bottle
# Turn on flame
#* the two 'outer' valves open counter-clockwise, but the 'middle' valve opens ''clockwise''.
#* don't put the lighter directly in front of the nozzle, but slightly below/to the side
#* adjust gas flow so it doesn't sputter but doesn't have a loud "windy" noise either
# Sit on the small stool, resting your elbows on your legs; rest the mandrel on your little finger, and use thumb and index finger to rotate it
# Dry bead release & heat mandrel in flame
# Heat tip of glass rod evenly
#* the hottest part of the flame is just at the tip of the bright blue (inner) cone
#* beware of splinters (thermoshock) -- point rod away from you and other people!
#* if applicable, straighten rod out again before putting away (so the direction of thermoshock is predictable)
# Gently add molten glass onto mandrel - it is easiest to keep your glass rod still and rotate your mandrel away from you, rather than keeping your mandrel still and trying to roll glass onto the mandrel
#* the glass rod should be in the hottest part of the flame, the mandrel slightly further away
#* do not apply any significant force -- this will pull off the bead release
#* do not let the glass touch the mandrels directly (where there isn't any bead release)!
#* create overhang to prevent pointy bits around the hole of the bead
# Things you can do with the bead:
#* add little splinters of glass (put on metal table, scoop back into tube afterwards)
#* use the thin glass rods to draw lines and shapes
#* use a thin mandrel to marble/'paint' (e.g. spirals) between glasses of different color
#** if glass remains stuck to the mandrel, get it red hot and dip into the water bucket; repeat as necessary
#* e.g. silver foil to change color of glass [to be expanded]
# When done, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red; turn off the flame and insert mandrel into kiln
#* make sure ''not'' to touch the walls, and especially not the thermocouple at the back wall!

Repeat as needed for as many mandrels as fit into the kiln.

=== Wrapping up ===

When all the beads are in the kiln:

# Press the Skip Segment button, and then Start
# Stick around till the cooling process has finished, and the kiln returns to "IDLE" (should occur at around 370 degrees Celsius, after around 45 minutes)
# Turn off kiln, and add note saying it's still hot (which it is!)
# Leave mandrels in for another few hours (the next morning if you worked in the evening) so they can cool down to room temperature
# Don't forget to pick up your beads later to make space for other people!

=== Alternative method: Vermiculite ===

If the kiln is in use for fusing, an alternative method of cooling your beads slowly is to place them into the pot of vermiculite as opposed to the heated kiln. The vermiculite traps air around the bead, stopping it from cooling too quickly. Although for small beads this is usually sufficient to prevent the bead from cracking, to be on the safe side, you will need to anneal your bead in the kiln afterwards. (Shops will generally require you to anneal all your beads before you sell them)

# When done working with the bead in the flame, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red
# Turn off the flame, use the marver to push aside the vermiculite a little and plant your bead into the vermiculite.
# Leave it in there until it cools to room temp (how long this takes depends on how big your bead is, but overnight is probably the safest).

TODO - section on how to batch anneal beads in the kiln after cooling in vermiculite

=== Finishing ===

Tips & tricks for how to get beads off mandrel and what to do with them then:

* Take the forceps from the toolbox to grip the mandrel (not the glass bead), and grip the bead with your other hand and rotate
** take care not to bend the mandrel! this is particularly relevant when using the thin mandrels
* Wash the beads to get the bead release off the inside
** there are [these things with teeth on] to scratch off the bead release
** using a shoestring might work, too (for big holes)

Here are some links you may find useful if you want to make your own
glass beads:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== How to fuse glass together ==

Please check out http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/free-videos.html, in particular What is Kiln-glass?, How to Choose a Glass for Kilnforming (especially parts 1-4 and Material Matters: Release Qualities), Glass Cutting, Fusing basics, Preparing Kiln Shelves.

== Other uses of the Kiln ==

The kiln can also be used to fire metal clay or for enamelling. None of the owners so far has had any experience with this. If you would like to try something, please check out safety requirements and send the proposal to Makespace admin for approval.

== Other uses of the Torch ==

* Annealing metal
* Pulling stringer

Widget:Google Calendar

2015-02-12T10:15:39Z

Tomoinn: Created page with "<noinclude> This widget allows you to add '''[http://www.google.com/calendar/embedhelper Google Calendar]''' widget to your wiki page. It was originally created by [http://ww..."

<noinclude>
This widget allows you to add '''[http://www.google.com/calendar/embedhelper Google Calendar]''' widget to your wiki page.

It was originally created by [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/User:Sergey_Chernyshev Sergey Chernyshev] for [http://www.techpresentations.org/Conferences#Current_.26_Upcoming_conferences upcoming conference calendar] on TechPresentations.org

== Using this widget ==
For information on how to use this widget, see [http://www.mediawikiwidgets.org/Google_Calendar widget description page on MediaWikiWidgets.org].

== Copy to your site ==
To use this widget on your site, just install [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Widgets MediaWiki Widgets extension] and copy [{{fullurl:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|action=edit}} full source code] of this page to your wiki as '''{{FULLPAGENAME}}''' article.
</noinclude><includeonly><iframe src="//www.google.com/calendar/hosted//embed?title=&pvttk=&src=&src=&color=%23&color=%23&height=&showTitle=01&showNav=01&showDate=01&showTabs=01&showCalendars=01&showPrint=01&showTz=01&wkst=&hl=&mode=&ctz=&bgcolor=%23" width="" height="" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" style="border: solid 1px #777" style=""></iframe></includeonly>

Equipment/Glassworking

2015-02-11T16:09:22Z

Tomoinn: /* Location */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment]] / Glassworking

[[File:8633913103_92f52a697d_c.jpg|thumb|320px|right]]

= Glassworking - General =

== Summary ==

This is a kiln and hot torch to work with soft glass - fusing and forming rather than blowing although if there's interest in the latter let us know!

'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''

== Owners ==

* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]
* [[User:Ennui2342|Mark Cheverton]]
* [[User:ST|ST]]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
YOU CAN ONLY USE THE GLASS KILN AND TORCH IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED 
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the glass kiln and torch and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Owners.

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training|Glassworking Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

'''[[Formal Risk Assessment: Glassworking]]'''

Glassworking involves both sharp, fragile raw materials and extreme heat. Most risks are obvious - sharp glass can cut you, and the hot torch and kiln can both burn. There are, however, a few non-obvious risks to be aware of:

# When working with the flame your glass will be glowing red hot or hotter, but very shortly after you put a rod down to work with something else the glass will cool to be visually indistinguishable from glass at room temperature. It may at this point still be hundreds of degrees centigrade! Do not pick anything up while someone is working at the torch without asking, you like your skin and want to keep it.
# Glass rods can stress-crack at the tip when heated. Point rods away from you and always wear eye protection - the glass won't travel far but you don't want it in your eyes.
# Some substances release toxic gases when heated to high temperatures
# For glass fusing, use glass that is designed for fusing. Please check the COE and compatibility of your glass.
# Please do not place flammable items near (<12 inches) the kiln. Please do not move the kiln closer to the walls.
# Wear dark grey safety glasses provided when looking into the kiln. Wear the blue safety glasses when working with the flame.
# Do not breathe in fine powders. Wear a dusk mask when mixing shelf primer, reapplying kiln shelf etc.
# Wear eye protection when cutting glass. Please clean surfaces afterwards with a damp paper towel. The tiny glass shards you get when you cut glass may be invisible to the eye but can be dangerous if it gets in your eyes.

Other risks will be covered during training - working with hot glass is perfectly safe as long as basic procedures are followed.

== Equipment ==

Our kiln is a Paragon SC2 kiln with an included bead door and window. This kiln includes a controller capable of multi-step programs with controlled rate heat up and cool down cycles. It has a maximum temperature of 1100 degrees centigrade, enough to fire some metal clays and work with most kinds of glass, but not enough to act as a metal furnace. There's an instruction booklet to use both in the box below the table.

In addition to the kiln we have a HotHead gas torch, along with the appropriate connection kit to run off bulk Propane gas rather than the normal MAPP cylinders (these burn slightly hotter, but are much more expensive as they're not available in larger quantities). The torch is mounted on a height and angle adjustable stand suitable for bead work when sitting on the low stool that should be lurking around the glassworking station.

For bead working we have a variety of mandrels, bead release that can be cooked in the flame and a wedge shaped graphite marver. Also a pot of vermiculite to slowly cool your beads so they won't break.

For art glass and strip-work we have a set of cutting tools along with a slump mould for making very small (9x9cm) glass bowls. Plus Bullseye GlasTac for sticking your pieces of glass together before you put them into the kiln. Please use only glue that is safe to heat to high temperatures - superglue, for example, should NOT be used as it releases cyanide gas (yikes!) when heated to high temperatures

It is important that these tools remain exclusively used for glass, please resist the temptation to use the cutters, pliers etc for other materials!

== Glass Stock ==

We have a selection of glass rod, sheet, stringer and frit.

The large pots of glass are bought as a random selection for about ten pounds per pot, they consist of offcuts of bullseye COE90 (coefficient of expansion, only important in as much as all glass in a particular piece should have the same number to prevent explosions!) in various thicknesses. Bullseye COE90 glass will tend to form 6mm thick sheets due to surface tension so stack your strip-work to that height.

In addition to this we have a small amount of specific colours of bullseye COE90 glass currently in clear 9x9cm sheets and larger plates of Makespace colours. We can buy at a discount from a couple of online suppliers even when ordering small quantities (a side effect of buying all the kiln and other hardware in one go!) so post to the list of you want anything in particular and we can order it.

For bead making we have a set of clear and a set of mixed coloured COE90 rods, along with tubes of frit and a selection of random stringer (1mm thick rod) glass for decoration. Prices for these are TBD, but will be printed on a sheet near the glassworking station when determined (something in the order of a pound per full rod, that would work out as around 20-40p per medium size bead, each of which would take about half an hour to make).

== Location ==

The glassworking kit is in the corner of the main workshop on the right as you come through the double doors. Work facing out into the main space when using the torch and try to keep your activities over the steel sheeting (not that we're likely to harm the concrete floor but it's easier to clean up!)

== Scheduling ==

Unlike many pieces of equipment in Makespace the kiln requires a considerable amount of uninterrupted time to run. We don't have a formal booking system in place, so for now I suggest you email the list if you propose to use it. For example, if you're doing bead work you will be spending between half an hour and two hours (depending on how many you're making) using the hot torch, with beads being placed in the kiln at a holding temperature while the others are worked in the flame, then running an annealing cycle which will cool down under computer control for a couple of hours, then cooling to ambient before the kiln becomes available for other users. It should be possible to get two runs in a day, as long as the first is done in the morning, but no more than that.

The kiln is a model which should be possible to leave unattended once you have set the digital controller to run a specific program. Before firing make sure you sign post that the kiln is hot, that there is nothing flammable near the kiln and that there is about 12 inches gap between the kiln and the walls. Please check the firing schedule - don't assume it is set to any previous settings. If you are doing anything new/are unfamiliar with the kiln, please ensure that you can be in the space for the duration of its active firing cycle - it's fine to leave once the heating elements are off and the kiln is cooling to ambient but please hang around while it's actually firing. If firing overnight please come in the next day to turn the kiln off.

= How tos =

'''Do not use the equipment if you have not been inducted!'''
'''If in doubt, consult the Kiln manual(s), and/or speak to one of the owners (or other trained users)!'''

== How to make glass beads ==

=== Preparation ===

Smell if there's any gas around (leak from the gas bottle)... If not:
# Fire up kiln
#* Turn on at the manual switch; wait for "IdLE" to appear. If it says "CpLt" press Start once.
#* Use Programme 1
#** press Review; if it shows #1, then simply press Start twice
#** if it shows some other number, consult the manual how to start Programme 1! [to be expanded]
#*** From IdLE press START (the left button) Use the Up Arrow (not the Down Arrow) to select a firing program - in this case Program 1 for annealing glass beads. Press start until the kiln starts displaying the temperature of the kiln. The clicking noise is normal.
# Get bead release to correct consistency
#* The bead release dries out over time. If it is too thick and lumpy you need to add water to it. Screw on the lid and shake the bead release well to get rid of all the lumps. It should be the consistency of a thick smoothie.
# Get everything (mandrels, tools, water bucket, glass) ready and laid out, so you don't have to bend over the hot flame to fetch it later

The final firing temperature is ~530 degrees; the kiln heats up pretty quickly, so you should be able to start working on the glass bead already.

=== Flameworking ===

For each bead:

# Coat the mandrel
#* tilt the bottle before you dip
#* dip only once, turn the mandrel while it is still in the bottle without touching the sides of the bottle
#* pull out the mandrel without touching the sides of the bottle
# Turn on flame
#* the two 'outer' valves open counter-clockwise, but the 'middle' valve opens ''clockwise''.
#* don't put the lighter directly in front of the nozzle, but slightly below/to the side
#* adjust gas flow so it doesn't sputter but doesn't have a loud "windy" noise either
# Sit on the small stool, resting your elbows on your legs; rest the mandrel on your little finger, and use thumb and index finger to rotate it
# Dry bead release & heat mandrel in flame
# Heat tip of glass rod evenly
#* the hottest part of the flame is just at the tip of the bright blue (inner) cone
#* beware of splinters (thermoshock) -- point rod away from you and other people!
#* if applicable, straighten rod out again before putting away (so the direction of thermoshock is predictable)
# Gently add molten glass onto mandrel - it is easiest to keep your glass rod still and rotate your mandrel away from you, rather than keeping your mandrel still and trying to roll glass onto the mandrel
#* the glass rod should be in the hottest part of the flame, the mandrel slightly further away
#* do not apply any significant force -- this will pull off the bead release
#* do not let the glass touch the mandrels directly (where there isn't any bead release)!
#* create overhang to prevent pointy bits around the hole of the bead
# Things you can do with the bead:
#* add little splinters of glass (put on metal table, scoop back into tube afterwards)
#* use the thin glass rods to draw lines and shapes
#* use a thin mandrel to marble/'paint' (e.g. spirals) between glasses of different color
#** if glass remains stuck to the mandrel, get it red hot and dip into the water bucket; repeat as necessary
#* e.g. silver foil to change color of glass [to be expanded]
# When done, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red; turn off the flame and insert mandrel into kiln
#* make sure ''not'' to touch the walls, and especially not the thermocouple at the back wall!

Repeat as needed for as many mandrels as fit into the kiln.

=== Wrapping up ===

When all the beads are in the kiln:

# Press the Skip Segment button, and then Start
# Stick around till the cooling process has finished, and the kiln returns to "IDLE" (should occur at around 370 degrees Celsius, after around 45 minutes)
# Turn off kiln, and add note saying it's still hot (which it is!)
# Leave mandrels in for another few hours (the next morning if you worked in the evening) so they can cool down to room temperature
# Don't forget to pick up your beads later to make space for other people!

=== Alternative method: Vermiculite ===

If the kiln is in use for fusing, an alternative method of cooling your beads slowly is to place them into the pot of vermiculite as opposed to the heated kiln. The vermiculite traps air around the bead, stopping it from cooling too quickly. Although for small beads this is usually sufficient to prevent the bead from cracking, to be on the safe side, you will need to anneal your bead in the kiln afterwards. (Shops will generally require you to anneal all your beads before you sell them)

# When done working with the bead in the flame, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red
# Turn off the flame, use the marver to push aside the vermiculite a little and plant your bead into the vermiculite.
# Leave it in there until it cools to room temp (how long this takes depends on how big your bead is, but overnight is probably the safest).

TODO - section on how to batch anneal beads in the kiln after cooling in vermiculite

=== Finishing ===

Tips & tricks for how to get beads off mandrel and what to do with them then:

* Take the forceps from the toolbox to grip the mandrel (not the glass bead), and grip the bead with your other hand and rotate
** take care not to bend the mandrel! this is particularly relevant when using the thin mandrels
* Wash the beads to get the bead release off the inside
** there are [these things with teeth on] to scratch off the bead release
** using a shoestring might work, too (for big holes)

Here are some links you may find useful if you want to make your own
glass beads:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== How to fuse glass together ==

Please check out http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/free-videos.html, in particular What is Kiln-glass?, How to Choose a Glass for Kilnforming (especially parts 1-4 and Material Matters: Release Qualities), Glass Cutting, Fusing basics, Preparing Kiln Shelves.

== Other uses of the Kiln ==

The kiln can also be used to fire metal clay or for enamelling. None of the owners so far has had any experience with this. If you would like to try something, please check out safety requirements and send the proposal to Makespace admin for approval.

== Other uses of the Torch ==

* Annealing metal
* Pulling stringer

Equipment/Glassworking/Training

2015-02-11T16:07:20Z

Tomoinn: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment]] / [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking]] / Training

= Glassworking Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the hot torch and glass kiln to make glass beads, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

Training on the Glassworking is run by the Glassworking Owners. The Glassworking Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the glass kiln and torch, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the glass kiln.

== Booking ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots if needed, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/1yqeTSc8m6s/discussion Glass Kiln training]

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to three at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day
* Until we've cleared the backlog, please consider other members, and only sign up for an induction when you actually have something in mind you want to make in the glass kiln, not just because you want to be trained on and able to use everything (don't worry, you ''will'' get trained eventually!)

= Trained Users =

The following members of Makespace are owners of the glassworking stuff, so are trained to use and teach use of Glassworking:
* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]
* Renee Chow (now back in Australia)
* [[User:ST|ST]]

The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the glass kiln and torch (note, they are not qualified to train others however):

{| class="wikitable"
|+Trained Members
!Member!!Date!!By
|-
|David Bebb|| ||
|-
|Roeland Schumacher|| ||
|-
|Hannah Wray|| ||
|-
|Indy Wilkhu|| ||
|-
|J. Antonio Barragan|| ||
|-
|Pop Sharma||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]]
|-
|Shareef Jalloq||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]]
|-
|Armando Carlone||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]]
|-
|Al Napp||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|-
|Brian Starkey||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|-
|Toby Moncaster||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|-
|Luke Twydell||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|}

= Training Cheatsheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the Glassworking Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

Glass Bead making inductions:

Torch:
Three taps. Open all three to work with torch. Close all three after you finish. Do not overtighten or you’ll damage the thread.
1st tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (arrow embossed in tap)
2nd tap: clockwise open. counterclockwise close (label on tap)
3rd tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (direction inscribed in brass tap)
For safety, smell for leaking gas in case last person forgot to close the taps.
Post online and email owners when gas is running low.
Please do not reach over the flame or try to stand up while the flame is still turned on! – Make sure you have everything within reach before you start.

Kiln:
Kiln instructions booklet found in box below table.
For annealing, use program 1.
Be careful not to knock the thermocouple at the back of the kiln.
Allow the bead to cool slightly before putting it in the kiln – if very hot glass touches kiln walls/shelf it can stick.
In annealing program, kiln cools at 222 degrees C/hr until shut off. Try to be around during shut off time. If you can’t, at least make sure that the kiln has completed its program before you head home for the night.
You can add your own program under program 3. If you accidentally change settings for program 1 please re-enter settings for bead annealing as described in instructions book or let us know if you have problems.
Using kiln for fusing glass – go ahead if you know how to do it. If not, inductions will come later. Please only use glue suitable for kilns (eg. Superglue contains cyanide and will release cyanide gas). RapidFire Paper/Powders – wear gas masks and clean the kiln shelves outdoors.

Glass:
Explain compatibility of glass - COE and viscosity. Bullseye sells glass that is COE 90 compatible and not COE 90 compatible. Smaller brands selling COE 90 will advertise their glass as either Bullseye compatible (they’ve tested it), or just COE 90 (they haven’t tested it, but it’s probably ok).
If you use your own glass that is not Bullseye COE 90, please make sure it doesn’t get mixed up with the stock glass.

Demonstrate how to make a glass bead: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

Pulling hot glass rods away from the flame quickly will cause long tapers in the glass rod. Round off glass rods before putting them away as thin long ends of glass can snap off and leave a sharp point.

Thermoshock. Heat glass slowly and cool glass slowly to avoid thermoshock. Keep glass pointed away from you when you heat or cool glass. Make sure people watching are doing so far away or are seated behind you. If your rod gets bent while you are working with it, straighten it while it is hot before letting it cool and putting it away. This makes it easier to guess the direction the bits of glass will fly if it thermoshocks. Careful not to let your bead cool too much too quickly when you are working with it or it can thermoshock. – For the most part the penetration force of the bits of flying glass is low, but the glass can be sharp and hot, causing minor cuts and very small third degree burns. Clean any glass shards on floor with dustpan provided.

Cutting glass. Place glass on flat surface. Use even pressure to score glass. Use glass breaker to apply pressure to the middle of the score line. Clean surface afterwards with damp kitchen towel to remove tiny glass shards that may be difficult to see by eye.

Mandrels:
Be careful as thin mandrels bend easily.

Safety equipment:
Close covered shoes
Safety glasses to cut sodium flare
Safety glasses to look into hot kiln
Gloves for opening kiln door

Costing:
See diagram on wall.

Burns:
Use cold running water for 20min. If it’s really bad, wrap in cling film and go to hospital.

Useful articles to send to people who have been inducted:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

Task
* make a bead

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed through making a bead (watch carefully all steps)

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Add to the trained member list!

Equipment/Glassworking/Training

2015-02-11T16:06:00Z

Tomoinn: /* Trained Users */

[[Equipment]] / [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking]] / Training

= Glassworking Training =

This page documents the process for being trained on the hot torch and glass kiln to make glass beads, and the list of members who have completed that training.

== Summary ==

Training takes place in three main steps:
* Group Training of 1-4 members, going through the equipment and how to use it (~1hr)
* Individual Training Task, where an individual member is set a task to complete to prove and improve understanding (~30min each)
* Project Oversight, where more experienced users oversee the projects being undertaken when cutting (first 2-3 projects)

Training on the Glassworking is run by the Glassworking Owners. The Glassworking Owners are a group of people responsible for maintaining and training on the glass kiln and torch, and hence have been trained to train, and trained to perform the weekly and monthly maintenance on the glass kiln.

== Booking ==

Sessions are advertised on '''http://meetup.makespace.org'''
* For discussing training, or requesting additional slots if needed, use the mailing list thread: [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/1yqeTSc8m6s/discussion Glass Kiln training]

Notes:
* You can only be trained if you have your name allocated to a slot (groups will be restricted to three at a time, so please don't make up additional spaces)
* You must do the group and individual training on the same day
* Until we've cleared the backlog, please consider other members, and only sign up for an induction when you actually have something in mind you want to make in the glass kiln, not just because you want to be trained on and able to use everything (don't worry, you ''will'' get trained eventually!)

= Trained Users =

The following members of Makespace are owners of the glassworking stuff, so are trained to use and teach use of Glassworking:
* [[User:Tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]
* Renee Chow
* [[User:ST|ST]]

The following members of Makespace are trained and qualified to use the glass kiln and torch (note, they are not qualified to train others however):

{| class="wikitable"
|+Trained Members
!Member!!Date!!By
|-
|David Bebb|| ||
|-
|Roeland Schumacher|| ||
|-
|Hannah Wray|| ||
|-
|Indy Wilkhu|| ||
|-
|J. Antonio Barragan|| ||
|-
|Pop Sharma||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]]
|-
|Shareef Jalloq||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]]
|-
|Armando Carlone||09/10/2013||[[User:ST|ST]]
|-
|Al Napp||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|-
|Brian Starkey||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|-
|Toby Moncaster||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|-
|Luke Twydell||10/02/2015||[[User:Tomoinn|Tom]]
|}

= Training Cheatsheet =

The training structure and prompt sheet. Please note, this is used by the Glassworking Owners as a prompt to ensure training is executed in a consistent and complete fashion is included on this page; this does not constitute and is not a substitute for the training itself.

== Group Training ==

The group training introduction structure, suitable for 1-4 members at a time in a 1 hr session.

Glass Bead making inductions:

Torch:
Three taps. Open all three to work with torch. Close all three after you finish. Do not overtighten or you’ll damage the thread.
1st tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (arrow embossed in tap)
2nd tap: clockwise open. counterclockwise close (label on tap)
3rd tap: counterclockwise open. clockwise close (direction inscribed in brass tap)
For safety, smell for leaking gas in case last person forgot to close the taps.
Post online and email owners when gas is running low.
Please do not reach over the flame or try to stand up while the flame is still turned on! – Make sure you have everything within reach before you start.

Kiln:
Kiln instructions booklet found in box below table.
For annealing, use program 1.
Be careful not to knock the thermocouple at the back of the kiln.
Allow the bead to cool slightly before putting it in the kiln – if very hot glass touches kiln walls/shelf it can stick.
In annealing program, kiln cools at 222 degrees C/hr until shut off. Try to be around during shut off time. If you can’t, at least make sure that the kiln has completed its program before you head home for the night.
You can add your own program under program 3. If you accidentally change settings for program 1 please re-enter settings for bead annealing as described in instructions book or let us know if you have problems.
Using kiln for fusing glass – go ahead if you know how to do it. If not, inductions will come later. Please only use glue suitable for kilns (eg. Superglue contains cyanide and will release cyanide gas). RapidFire Paper/Powders – wear gas masks and clean the kiln shelves outdoors.

Glass:
Explain compatibility of glass - COE and viscosity. Bullseye sells glass that is COE 90 compatible and not COE 90 compatible. Smaller brands selling COE 90 will advertise their glass as either Bullseye compatible (they’ve tested it), or just COE 90 (they haven’t tested it, but it’s probably ok).
If you use your own glass that is not Bullseye COE 90, please make sure it doesn’t get mixed up with the stock glass.

Demonstrate how to make a glass bead: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

Pulling hot glass rods away from the flame quickly will cause long tapers in the glass rod. Round off glass rods before putting them away as thin long ends of glass can snap off and leave a sharp point.

Thermoshock. Heat glass slowly and cool glass slowly to avoid thermoshock. Keep glass pointed away from you when you heat or cool glass. Make sure people watching are doing so far away or are seated behind you. If your rod gets bent while you are working with it, straighten it while it is hot before letting it cool and putting it away. This makes it easier to guess the direction the bits of glass will fly if it thermoshocks. Careful not to let your bead cool too much too quickly when you are working with it or it can thermoshock. – For the most part the penetration force of the bits of flying glass is low, but the glass can be sharp and hot, causing minor cuts and very small third degree burns. Clean any glass shards on floor with dustpan provided.

Cutting glass. Place glass on flat surface. Use even pressure to score glass. Use glass breaker to apply pressure to the middle of the score line. Clean surface afterwards with damp kitchen towel to remove tiny glass shards that may be difficult to see by eye.

Mandrels:
Be careful as thin mandrels bend easily.

Safety equipment:
Close covered shoes
Safety glasses to cut sodium flare
Safety glasses to look into hot kiln
Gloves for opening kiln door

Costing:
See diagram on wall.

Burns:
Use cold running water for 20min. If it’s really bad, wrap in cling film and go to hospital.

Useful articles to send to people who have been inducted:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== Individual Training Task ==

The individual task to get familiar, prompt questions and check understanding:

Task
* make a bead

Steps
* Set individual to work, don't prompt but do answer questions (or pose if needed)
* Talk through design once done, question/check things etc
* Proceed through making a bead (watch carefully all steps)

Assuming all ok:
* Get them to read the health and safety notes about operation and materials
* Add to the trained member list!

Arduino and Cake

2014-11-12T10:44:50Z

Tomoinn: /* New Sessions for 2014 - Return of the Cake */

[[File:P1100161.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Cake!]]
[[File:P1100164.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Arduino!]]
[[File:P1100162.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Happy Hacking!]]
[[File:P1100160.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The temperature sensor, it lives!]]
[[File:P1100163.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Step step step...]]

= Arduino and Cake =

This is a page of information for the (hopefully) regular 'Arduino and Cake' event we run at Makespace. This is an evening where we get together in the space to learn and hack on projects involving the Arduino and similar microcontrollers. As the name suggests, there's also cake!

If you're a complete beginner to microcontrollers (tiny, very cheap computers without an operating system, files, display, keyboard...) this is a great opportunity to come and play with them. Experts also very welcome, in fact we need you to help the new people! Possible things you can do with an Arduino (a particularly easy to use microcontroller board) range from simple flashing lights up to acting as the brains of an autonomous flying robot, managing your hydroponic gardening project or tweeting the current temperature of your hot water tank. This get-together is intended to help those of us for whom imagination exceeds expertise (that is to say, pretty much everyone I know), let's build cool things together :)

== New Sessions for 2014 - Return of the Cake ==

After almost a year we're back, more cake, more flashing lights, more robots, but with no more clue or organisational skills! There are four events scheduled, culminating in one just before our [http://basebot.org/ robot] has to be ready for its competitive debut at the [http://piwars.org PiWars] event on the 6th of December (anyone who'd like to join us with that robot challenge is more than welcome!).

Meetup pages for the events are as follows, all are 7pm to 10pm in the classroom:

# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410302/ Wed 12th November]
# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410332/ Thu 20th November]
# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410402/ Fri 28th November]
# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410442/ Thu 4th December] - Note change of date from Friday 5th!

== Older Sessions ==

The plan is to have this as regularly as possible, varying the day around in case people can't make a particular day of the week.

# Our first session, with all levels of experience from complete novices to expert embedded programmers. Everyone paired up, with beginners and experts working together; judging from the happy buzz of making noises (both the noise of making, and the making of noises - we had buzzers!) it worked pretty well. The meetup page for the first go is [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/130569572/ on meetup here]
# The second one was on the 8th of August; meetup event [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/132710342/ here], big copies of the photos (which are lurking on the right hand side of this very page) [http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomoinn/sets/72157634991866826/ here] :) Some of the bits for the Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits arrived, temperature and humidity sensors and stepper motor drivers yielded to sugar driven curiosity.
# The third was on the 16th August, slightly slower mostly as was distracted wiring cables but we made the dot matrix displays work (mostly) and Martin hacked some more on his sky tracking camera mount. Meetup event page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/134508292/ here]
# The fourth was on the 28th August, no robots as we had some issues with the new Arduinos (it turned out later that they didn't have bootloaders, now fixed). The meetup event was [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/135690182/ here]
# The fith was in September 19th, meetup event was [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/140024592/ here]

Next meeting is Friday 25th October. Meetup page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/146064672/ here] - sign up! Bring cake! Bring friends! (particularly friends with cake) Make bleepy flashing things that run around the room!

== Helpful links ==

Arduino home page : [http://www.arduino.cc/ www.arduino.cc] 
A bunch of useful little circuits to play with: [http://www.pighixxx.com/abc-arduino-basic-connections/ Arduino Basic Connections]

== Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits (BBBBB) ==

We've had approval to buy some bits and pieces for people to play with at this event, and generally within Makespace so I've done an eBay dive and ordered the following, these will arrive sometime over the next month or so:

# {{Done|80 high brightness LEDs (20 each of orange, green, blue and pink!)}}
# {{Done|4 LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Ethernet shields for the Arduino Nano}}
# {{Done|4 LCD 20x4 character displays}}
# {{Done|8 Motion sensors (6 degrees of freedom MPU6050 based with 3 axis gyro and 3 axis accelerometer)}}
# {{Done|6 Arduino Nano v3 boards (ATMega328, mounts on a breadboard)}}
# {{Done|12 Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
# {{Done|3 Temperature / Relative humidity sensor modules}}
# {{Done|2 IR correlation sensor modules (the kind where you have a beam which outputs a signal when broken, good for detecting rotation etc)}}
# {{Done|10 Small servo motors (9g plastic type)}}
# {{Done|6 Ultrasonic rangefinder modules, detect bounce from around 20cm to 3m}}
# {{Done|4 Stepper motors with driver modules, 5v supply}}
# {{Done|1 Barometric pressure sensor module}}
# 10 Playstation style joysticks, the little analogue ones with a built in pushbutton on breakout boards
# {{Done|10 NRF24L01 radio modules, short (~100m) range radio modules capable of transmitting packets of 3 bytes at around 2Mbits/second under ideal conditions}}
# {{Done|A lot of somewhat longer jumper leads (20cm and 30cm) both male to male and male to female, the latter being particularly useful for connecting to the radio modules as they have a non-breadboard-friendly pin layout (or we can make boards with the PCB mill)}}

Total budget for all the above including shipping is 270GBP (you get a lot of electronics for you money when buying from the far East!)

As and when these appear at my house I'll bring them in and add them to the BBBBB - I'm planning to buy a decent size box with compartments to keep these in, both as convenient access and as a way to monitor attrition (these are cheap, but the cheapness comes with long lead times). These bits will be for use at Makespace, rather than for consumption but as long as we have enough items we can be flexible on that; I think if someone has ordered a Nano, say, there's no reason we can't lend them one of the kit ones while they wait for it to turn up.

'''Update''' - we now have the box and some of the bits, I'm marking bits which have arrived and are now in the box in {{Done|this colour}} in the list above. At the moment the box is waiting to be documented and have the components properly marked, it'll then be left in Makespace and hopefully its contents won't evaporate too fast!

'''Update 14th August 2013''' - The BBBBB has its own wiki page at [[Arduino and Cake/Big Box]] where we'll try to document everything as it arrives. Add information to that page if you find something interesting about a part we have, it's also the place to put requests for components and modules.

'''Update 20th August 2013''' - More bits have arrived, we're almost complete! The next session should result in robots, or I'll be severely displeased.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 10:22, 20 August 2013 (BST)

== Projects ==

Got an interesting project or a project idea? Add it here.

=== Vehicle monitor / heating controller ===

I've re-wired my Land Rover, using a star topology, with a big central "ganglion" which almost all the wires run to and from. There's an extra wire coming from each connection, that will go to a board of LEDs and voltage dividers, the latter feeding into an Arduino Mega, which will monitor just about everything, and display information on a small LCD panel.

I'm also planning to make a motorized heater control system (moving flaps to direct air from an Eberspacher) and the valve motors will be driven from relays on the Arduino.

And there'll be a GPS/GSM security unit, and eventually a Linux board (probably Pandaboard) running navigation software. And later on, I hope, an electric motor to drive the extra axle I added. The Arduino Mega will route data between all these points, with its multiple hardware UARTS, as well as sending out information it converts locally from its own inputs.

I expect the software will be a main loop that polls all UARTs for incoming information, all wiring lines for changes from their previous state, all heating valve position sensors for whether they've reached the right position, all pedals for information to send to the traction motor controller when fitted, and does the associated actions (for example, NMEA sentences from the GPS get forwarded to the Linux board for navigation and are also used to display the time on the LCD, heating switches update the desired positions for flap valves).

[[User:JCGS|JCGS]] 15:00, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Quadcopter ===

Because everyone loves autonomous flying robots surrounded by razor sharp rotating propellers, right?

A friend and I are working on a full self build of a quad rotor, we have the airframe, motors, props, speed controllers and an arduino with a combined gyro / accelerometer mounted. We just need to add batteries, wireless comms and software. I don't know whether I can persuade Si to come along to this meeting, he's not a member, but that's one of the things I'm playing with at the moment. I'm using the MPU6050 and PID libraries to manage the feedback between the accelerometer and the speed controllers in an attempt to get a stable hover mode, and the NRF24L01 as the radio module.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Bottle rocket telemetry ===

The family makers are making bottle rockets, I thought it'd be cool to try to make a telemetry module that would tell them how high they'd gone and render a 3d trace of the trajectory using either Processing or WebGL. The main challenge here is to get the circuitry small enough and tough enough to be carried by the rockets and then survive the return to ground level! The second issue is power, I have a LiPo battery and charger so should just be a case of a 3.3v regulator but maybe it needs a boost converter, not really my area of expertise so I'd really like some help there.

At the moment I'm interested in using an ATTiny85 (8 pin dip package MCU) as an Arduino, using the MPU6050 gyro / accelerometer and an XBee v2 radio - I'd use the NRF24 radio but I think it needs more pins than I have available on the ATTiny. Another option would be to use a rather more sophisticated Arduino pro mini, more pins means the NRF radio would be an option which is much cheaper than the XBee modules.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== I2C plant moisture sensors ===

Program an ATTiny85 as an I2C slave, embedding it onto a circuit board etched to work as a capacitive moisture sensor. Use Arduino nano with ethernet shield as an I2C master to then monitor the moisture levels in my various outdoor plant pots and tweet when they're getting too dry.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Breadboard prototype of a 1D Pong Game ===

The idea is to prototype a simple 1D pong game (see [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgQg1DVY4Xc YouTube]) on Arduino or other microcontroller.

Features:
*Some kind of startup animation (similar to the YouTube video)
*A scoreboard or something similar. Based maybe on a segmented display or LCD.
*SOUNDS! :-)
*Perhaps some different game modes, maybe "powerups" of some kind?

Eventually I would like this to be the start of a '''MUCH''' larger version of the game (but that's for the future ;-))

--[[User:DannyG|DannyG]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Self-levelling camera gimbal ===

One popular use of quadcopters is aerial photography/videography, but for this you ideally need a stabilised camera mounting. It's relatively easy to fabricate a two-axis gimbal for a small camera like a GoPro, driven by servos, which can hold itself level using readings from a gyro/accelerometer board.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Barn door sky tracker ===
* Goal: take long exposure photos of the sky.
* Problem: the sky rotates over the course of a long exposure.
* Solution: make a motorised mount which rotates your camera at the same rate.

I'm aiming to build a simple "barn door" mount (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker) to enable me to take long exposure sky photos. At its simplest this is two hinged pieces of wood connected by a threaded rod which you turn slowly to increase the angle at the hinge. I'd like to drive this with a stepper motor so it can be left running, and ideally let the Arduino do some of the maths to compensate for the changing geometry of the mount.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Electricity monitor and TRIAC based resistive load driver ===

I need to modulate a large resistive heating load on AC with a TRIAC: whole cycle and half cycle burst fire with some supervisory decision making process to make it comply with the EMC directives. I also need to monitor the power delivered by integrating current and voltage over the waveform and integrating the lot. It would be useful to estimate the supply impedance and/or internal resistance of the load using the same hardware. A lot of this is similar to work done on the Open Energy Monitor by the Solar-PV folks trying to game the tax system - with added EMC directives...

[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/]
[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/node/841]

[[User:markocosic|markocosic]] 17:37, 21 August 2013 (BST)

== Custom Arduino IDE Build ==

I'm working on a custom version of the Arduino IDE to, amongst other things, allow us to cut and paste code from the IDE directly into this wiki. I've made that particular change on my own clone of the code, the adventurous can check it out from https://github.com/tomoinn/Arduino/tree/ide-1.5.x; you'll need to do the following (only tested on linux thus far!)


> git clone git@github.com:tomoinn/Arduino.git 
> git checkout ide-1.5.x 
> cd Arduino/build 
> ant run


You should then have a version of the IDE based on version 1.5 but with an extra context menu option 'copy as MediaWiki HTML', if you use this and then copy the clipboard into an editor in our wiki you should get something like the following:

<span style='font-family: monospace; display: block; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 6px; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;background-color: #f9f9f9;'>/* 
  Blink 
 Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second, repeatedly. 
  
 This example code is in the public domain. 
 */ 
 
// Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards. 
// give it a name: 
int led = 13; 
 
// the setup routine runs once when you press reset: 
void setup() { 
  // initialize the digital pin as an output. 
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT); 
} 
 
// the loop routine runs over and over again forever: 
void loop() { 
  digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
  digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
} 


Should make putting example code up easier - I'm also thinking of customizing colours, logo etc to create a makespace edition of the IDE. As and when it becomes a bit more stable I'll start doing proper builds for linux and windows at least. Note that cloning the github repository takes a long time, it's going on for 600Mb of data, potentially you can cut that down by only cloning the ide-1.5.x branch if you're familiar with git.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 14:09, 13 September 2013 (BST)

Arduino and Cake

2014-11-08T11:05:36Z

Tomoinn: Added events for autum / winter 2014

[[File:P1100161.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Cake!]]
[[File:P1100164.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Arduino!]]
[[File:P1100162.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Happy Hacking!]]
[[File:P1100160.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The temperature sensor, it lives!]]
[[File:P1100163.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Step step step...]]

= Arduino and Cake =

This is a page of information for the (hopefully) regular 'Arduino and Cake' event we run at Makespace. This is an evening where we get together in the space to learn and hack on projects involving the Arduino and similar microcontrollers. As the name suggests, there's also cake!

If you're a complete beginner to microcontrollers (tiny, very cheap computers without an operating system, files, display, keyboard...) this is a great opportunity to come and play with them. Experts also very welcome, in fact we need you to help the new people! Possible things you can do with an Arduino (a particularly easy to use microcontroller board) range from simple flashing lights up to acting as the brains of an autonomous flying robot, managing your hydroponic gardening project or tweeting the current temperature of your hot water tank. This get-together is intended to help those of us for whom imagination exceeds expertise (that is to say, pretty much everyone I know), let's build cool things together :)

== New Sessions for 2014 - Return of the Cake ==

After almost a year we're back, more cake, more flashing lights, more robots, but with no more clue or organisational skills! There are four events scheduled, culminating in one just before our [http://basebot.org/ robot] has to be ready for its competitive debut at the [http://piwars.org PiWars] event on the 6th of December (anyone who'd like to join us with that robot challenge is more than welcome!).

Meetup pages for the events are as follows, all are 7pm to 10pm in the classroom:

# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410302/ Wed 12th November]
# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410332/ Thu 20th November]
# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410402/ Fri 28th November]
# [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/218410442/ Fri 5th December]

== Older Sessions ==

The plan is to have this as regularly as possible, varying the day around in case people can't make a particular day of the week.

# Our first session, with all levels of experience from complete novices to expert embedded programmers. Everyone paired up, with beginners and experts working together; judging from the happy buzz of making noises (both the noise of making, and the making of noises - we had buzzers!) it worked pretty well. The meetup page for the first go is [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/130569572/ on meetup here]
# The second one was on the 8th of August; meetup event [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/132710342/ here], big copies of the photos (which are lurking on the right hand side of this very page) [http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomoinn/sets/72157634991866826/ here] :) Some of the bits for the Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits arrived, temperature and humidity sensors and stepper motor drivers yielded to sugar driven curiosity.
# The third was on the 16th August, slightly slower mostly as was distracted wiring cables but we made the dot matrix displays work (mostly) and Martin hacked some more on his sky tracking camera mount. Meetup event page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/134508292/ here]
# The fourth was on the 28th August, no robots as we had some issues with the new Arduinos (it turned out later that they didn't have bootloaders, now fixed). The meetup event was [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/135690182/ here]
# The fith was in September 19th, meetup event was [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/140024592/ here]

Next meeting is Friday 25th October. Meetup page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/146064672/ here] - sign up! Bring cake! Bring friends! (particularly friends with cake) Make bleepy flashing things that run around the room!

== Helpful links ==

Arduino home page : [http://www.arduino.cc/ www.arduino.cc] 
A bunch of useful little circuits to play with: [http://www.pighixxx.com/abc-arduino-basic-connections/ Arduino Basic Connections]

== Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits (BBBBB) ==

We've had approval to buy some bits and pieces for people to play with at this event, and generally within Makespace so I've done an eBay dive and ordered the following, these will arrive sometime over the next month or so:

# {{Done|80 high brightness LEDs (20 each of orange, green, blue and pink!)}}
# {{Done|4 LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Ethernet shields for the Arduino Nano}}
# {{Done|4 LCD 20x4 character displays}}
# {{Done|8 Motion sensors (6 degrees of freedom MPU6050 based with 3 axis gyro and 3 axis accelerometer)}}
# {{Done|6 Arduino Nano v3 boards (ATMega328, mounts on a breadboard)}}
# {{Done|12 Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
# {{Done|3 Temperature / Relative humidity sensor modules}}
# {{Done|2 IR correlation sensor modules (the kind where you have a beam which outputs a signal when broken, good for detecting rotation etc)}}
# {{Done|10 Small servo motors (9g plastic type)}}
# {{Done|6 Ultrasonic rangefinder modules, detect bounce from around 20cm to 3m}}
# {{Done|4 Stepper motors with driver modules, 5v supply}}
# {{Done|1 Barometric pressure sensor module}}
# 10 Playstation style joysticks, the little analogue ones with a built in pushbutton on breakout boards
# {{Done|10 NRF24L01 radio modules, short (~100m) range radio modules capable of transmitting packets of 3 bytes at around 2Mbits/second under ideal conditions}}
# {{Done|A lot of somewhat longer jumper leads (20cm and 30cm) both male to male and male to female, the latter being particularly useful for connecting to the radio modules as they have a non-breadboard-friendly pin layout (or we can make boards with the PCB mill)}}

Total budget for all the above including shipping is 270GBP (you get a lot of electronics for you money when buying from the far East!)

As and when these appear at my house I'll bring them in and add them to the BBBBB - I'm planning to buy a decent size box with compartments to keep these in, both as convenient access and as a way to monitor attrition (these are cheap, but the cheapness comes with long lead times). These bits will be for use at Makespace, rather than for consumption but as long as we have enough items we can be flexible on that; I think if someone has ordered a Nano, say, there's no reason we can't lend them one of the kit ones while they wait for it to turn up.

'''Update''' - we now have the box and some of the bits, I'm marking bits which have arrived and are now in the box in {{Done|this colour}} in the list above. At the moment the box is waiting to be documented and have the components properly marked, it'll then be left in Makespace and hopefully its contents won't evaporate too fast!

'''Update 14th August 2013''' - The BBBBB has its own wiki page at [[Arduino and Cake/Big Box]] where we'll try to document everything as it arrives. Add information to that page if you find something interesting about a part we have, it's also the place to put requests for components and modules.

'''Update 20th August 2013''' - More bits have arrived, we're almost complete! The next session should result in robots, or I'll be severely displeased.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 10:22, 20 August 2013 (BST)

== Projects ==

Got an interesting project or a project idea? Add it here.

=== Vehicle monitor / heating controller ===

I've re-wired my Land Rover, using a star topology, with a big central "ganglion" which almost all the wires run to and from. There's an extra wire coming from each connection, that will go to a board of LEDs and voltage dividers, the latter feeding into an Arduino Mega, which will monitor just about everything, and display information on a small LCD panel.

I'm also planning to make a motorized heater control system (moving flaps to direct air from an Eberspacher) and the valve motors will be driven from relays on the Arduino.

And there'll be a GPS/GSM security unit, and eventually a Linux board (probably Pandaboard) running navigation software. And later on, I hope, an electric motor to drive the extra axle I added. The Arduino Mega will route data between all these points, with its multiple hardware UARTS, as well as sending out information it converts locally from its own inputs.

I expect the software will be a main loop that polls all UARTs for incoming information, all wiring lines for changes from their previous state, all heating valve position sensors for whether they've reached the right position, all pedals for information to send to the traction motor controller when fitted, and does the associated actions (for example, NMEA sentences from the GPS get forwarded to the Linux board for navigation and are also used to display the time on the LCD, heating switches update the desired positions for flap valves).

[[User:JCGS|JCGS]] 15:00, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Quadcopter ===

Because everyone loves autonomous flying robots surrounded by razor sharp rotating propellers, right?

A friend and I are working on a full self build of a quad rotor, we have the airframe, motors, props, speed controllers and an arduino with a combined gyro / accelerometer mounted. We just need to add batteries, wireless comms and software. I don't know whether I can persuade Si to come along to this meeting, he's not a member, but that's one of the things I'm playing with at the moment. I'm using the MPU6050 and PID libraries to manage the feedback between the accelerometer and the speed controllers in an attempt to get a stable hover mode, and the NRF24L01 as the radio module.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Bottle rocket telemetry ===

The family makers are making bottle rockets, I thought it'd be cool to try to make a telemetry module that would tell them how high they'd gone and render a 3d trace of the trajectory using either Processing or WebGL. The main challenge here is to get the circuitry small enough and tough enough to be carried by the rockets and then survive the return to ground level! The second issue is power, I have a LiPo battery and charger so should just be a case of a 3.3v regulator but maybe it needs a boost converter, not really my area of expertise so I'd really like some help there.

At the moment I'm interested in using an ATTiny85 (8 pin dip package MCU) as an Arduino, using the MPU6050 gyro / accelerometer and an XBee v2 radio - I'd use the NRF24 radio but I think it needs more pins than I have available on the ATTiny. Another option would be to use a rather more sophisticated Arduino pro mini, more pins means the NRF radio would be an option which is much cheaper than the XBee modules.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== I2C plant moisture sensors ===

Program an ATTiny85 as an I2C slave, embedding it onto a circuit board etched to work as a capacitive moisture sensor. Use Arduino nano with ethernet shield as an I2C master to then monitor the moisture levels in my various outdoor plant pots and tweet when they're getting too dry.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Breadboard prototype of a 1D Pong Game ===

The idea is to prototype a simple 1D pong game (see [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgQg1DVY4Xc YouTube]) on Arduino or other microcontroller.

Features:
*Some kind of startup animation (similar to the YouTube video)
*A scoreboard or something similar. Based maybe on a segmented display or LCD.
*SOUNDS! :-)
*Perhaps some different game modes, maybe "powerups" of some kind?

Eventually I would like this to be the start of a '''MUCH''' larger version of the game (but that's for the future ;-))

--[[User:DannyG|DannyG]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Self-levelling camera gimbal ===

One popular use of quadcopters is aerial photography/videography, but for this you ideally need a stabilised camera mounting. It's relatively easy to fabricate a two-axis gimbal for a small camera like a GoPro, driven by servos, which can hold itself level using readings from a gyro/accelerometer board.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Barn door sky tracker ===
* Goal: take long exposure photos of the sky.
* Problem: the sky rotates over the course of a long exposure.
* Solution: make a motorised mount which rotates your camera at the same rate.

I'm aiming to build a simple "barn door" mount (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker) to enable me to take long exposure sky photos. At its simplest this is two hinged pieces of wood connected by a threaded rod which you turn slowly to increase the angle at the hinge. I'd like to drive this with a stepper motor so it can be left running, and ideally let the Arduino do some of the maths to compensate for the changing geometry of the mount.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Electricity monitor and TRIAC based resistive load driver ===

I need to modulate a large resistive heating load on AC with a TRIAC: whole cycle and half cycle burst fire with some supervisory decision making process to make it comply with the EMC directives. I also need to monitor the power delivered by integrating current and voltage over the waveform and integrating the lot. It would be useful to estimate the supply impedance and/or internal resistance of the load using the same hardware. A lot of this is similar to work done on the Open Energy Monitor by the Solar-PV folks trying to game the tax system - with added EMC directives...

[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/]
[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/node/841]

[[User:markocosic|markocosic]] 17:37, 21 August 2013 (BST)

== Custom Arduino IDE Build ==

I'm working on a custom version of the Arduino IDE to, amongst other things, allow us to cut and paste code from the IDE directly into this wiki. I've made that particular change on my own clone of the code, the adventurous can check it out from https://github.com/tomoinn/Arduino/tree/ide-1.5.x; you'll need to do the following (only tested on linux thus far!)


> git clone git@github.com:tomoinn/Arduino.git 
> git checkout ide-1.5.x 
> cd Arduino/build 
> ant run


You should then have a version of the IDE based on version 1.5 but with an extra context menu option 'copy as MediaWiki HTML', if you use this and then copy the clipboard into an editor in our wiki you should get something like the following:

<span style='font-family: monospace; display: block; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 6px; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;background-color: #f9f9f9;'>/* 
  Blink 
 Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second, repeatedly. 
  
 This example code is in the public domain. 
 */ 
 
// Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards. 
// give it a name: 
int led = 13; 
 
// the setup routine runs once when you press reset: 
void setup() { 
  // initialize the digital pin as an output. 
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT); 
} 
 
// the loop routine runs over and over again forever: 
void loop() { 
  digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
  digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
} 


Should make putting example code up easier - I'm also thinking of customizing colours, logo etc to create a makespace edition of the IDE. As and when it becomes a bit more stable I'll start doing proper builds for linux and windows at least. Note that cloning the github repository takes a long time, it's going on for 600Mb of data, potentially you can cut that down by only cloning the ide-1.5.x branch if you're familiar with git.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 14:09, 13 September 2013 (BST)

Shiny New Tool Chests

2014-10-09T23:21:43Z

Tomoinn: Created page with "There's a tentative proposal on the mailing list to get some actually good hand tools, and storage such that these don't get lost and are marked as being good. The hope is tha..."

There's a tentative proposal on the mailing list to get some actually good hand tools, and storage such that these don't get lost and are marked as being good. The hope is that this will encourage people to treat them with respect, and to return them to their homes properly.

One tool chest makes no sense, we have multiple kinds of tools and multiple places where such things need to be accessed. So, this page is intended to capture the broad categories we need, and the specific tools we want in those categories. Once we have a reasonable idea, we will go and buy good stuff, and the space will have decent small tools (and there will be much rejoicing)

Please either add to the existing categories, or create a new one if you think that's needed.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] ([[User talk:Tomoinn|talk]]) 00:21, 10 October 2014 (BST)

== Electronics Workbench Tool Chest ==

Intended to live at or near the electronics workbench, and contain the tools which one needs while working there. Also for projects likely to be assembled and worked on at the large white table in the main space, so focusing on electronics and small to medium scale robotics.

* Hex drivers
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Pearl catcher
* Tweezers
* Fine nosed pliers
* SMD helpers (basically small heat-proof steel pointy things)
* Jeweller's screwdrivers
* Adjustable spanners
* Small files
* Dremel bits and tools
* ...

== Secure Workshop Woodworking Tool Chest ==

Lives in the secure workshop, houses tools which are intended solely for working on wood.

* Planes
* Spokeshaves
* Wood chisels
* Rasps
* Brace and bit?
* Wood drill bits
* Sanding blocks / paper
* Wood saws
* Coping saws etc
* ...

== Secure Workshop Metalworking Tool Chest ==

Lives in the secure workshop, houses tools which are intended solely for working on metal.

* Metal drill bits
* Metal files
* Hacksaws
* Taps and dies
* ...

== General Tool Chest ==

General tools, useful all around the space for larger pieces of work. I suggest this lives just inside or just outside of the secure workshop if we can find space for it.

* Socket wrench set
* Larger adjustable spanners
* Larger screwdrivers
* Knives
* ...

EMF 2014

2014-08-07T14:25:10Z

Tomoinn: /* Members @ EMF */

(Taken from https://www.emfcamp.org/)

August 29th–31st 2014 Bletchley, UK

Electromagnetic Field is a UK camping festival for those with an inquisitive mind or an interest in making things: hackers, artists, geeks, crafters, scientists, and engineers.

Tickets are currently £95 for weekend camping, there are add-on tickets for car parking and camper van/caravan parking.

The EMF camp wiki is: http://wiki.emfcamp.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_Field_2014

==Things to Bring==
(See http://wiki.emfcamp.org/wiki/Packing_List for more details)
* Yourself
* A tent
* A torch
* Money to buy awesome things
* A ~10m mains extension cable
* A ~10m ethernet cable
* Electronicy geeky things obviously

==Members @ EMF==
===Definitely Going===
* [[User:Pinski1|Robert K]] +1 (lift might be available)
** I'll be bringing a 3D printer, a 13.6kg combat robot, an LED Display, 100Watt LED.
* Toby M
** Potentially a large quadcopter if my flying skills improve enough :)
* Mat C +1 (lift might be available)
* Brian C
* Mark T
* Mark M (lift might be available from Hitchin)
* Mark C + kids (6 & 8)
* Stephen
* Tom O
** I'll bring some BaseBots, and I'm planning to bring along the necessary audio gear to do a live show of electronic music based on sounds sampled from around the camp. What could possibly go wrong?
* Tom M
** I'll bring my project, a 3D printer that makes clothes. I've also applied to do a talk about it.
* JCGS (bringing Land-Rover camper, can give lifts to up to 12 or 13 at a pinch)
* Kim SJ + wife and maybe niece
** I'll bring the Badger, at least. And maybe some Pi stuff.
* Alexandra G. (+1..up to +3 possibly)
* Chris A

===Possibly Going===
* Anne H. & friend
* Laura J + Michael D (subject to other commitments)

===Makespace Village===
There has been a suggestion of setting up Makespace Cambridge in the Hackspace Village. This would allow us to have a central Makespace tent and a place to show off our (un)finished projects!
We have an offer of 2 marquees; 10m x 4m (can be put up as 6mx4m) and 12m x 6m from Kim SJ's brother. We need to decide what we want to do for our Makespace Camp.

==Transport==
(Taken from http://wiki.emfcamp.org/wiki/Travel)

The site has the postcode MK17 0BU. This is roughly a mile outside of Newton Longville.

Public transport links don't look to be the best with Google Maps estimating it to be a 3 bus 3 hour journey or a 4 hour trip via London. It would thus be advisable to lift share with others.

Suppliers

2014-03-16T12:59:21Z

Tomoinn: /* Plastic */

Places to buy things

Self populated

=Electronics=
*[http://uk.farnell.com/ Farnell]
*[http://cpc.farnell.com/ CPC]
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/ RS Components]
*[http://www.rapidonline.com/ Rapid Electronics]
*[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/ Cool Components]
*[http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ HobbyTronics]
*[http://www.hobbyking.com/ HobbyKing]
*[http://proto-pic.co.uk/ Proto-Pic]
*[http://skpang.co.uk/ SKPang]
*[http://www.technobotsonline.com/ Technobots]
*[http://www.phenoptix.com/ Phenoptix]
*[http://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronic]
*[http://www.maplin.co.uk/ Maplin]
*[http://www.active-robots.com/ Active-Robots]
*[http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/ Gimson Robotics]
*Ragworm

==US==
NOTE: These shops will charge a lot for postage, Customs and VAT.
*[http://www.newark.com/ Newark]
*[http://www.digikey.co.uk/ Digikey]
*[http://sparkfun.com/ Sparkfun]
*[http://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit]
*[http://www.tindie.com/ Tindie]
*OSHPark

=Materials=

==Metals==
*[http://www.beltingonline.com/ Belting Online]
*[http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/ Bearing Boys]
*[http://simplybearings.co.uk/ Simply Bearings]
*[http://www.bearingstation.co.uk/ Bearing Station]
*[http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ KJN]
** "Highly recommended" - Mat C
*[http://www.motedis.co.uk/ Motedis]
**If you want to ask them anything, speak to Kris at kb@motedis.co.uk
*[http://uk.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]
**Call for best results
*Igus
**Difficult to buy from
*[http://www.worldofcnc.com/ World of CNC]
*[http://metals4u.co.uk Metals4U]
** Good selection, happy to do small quantities. Delivery is fast. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)
*[http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ Westfield Fasteners]
** Excellent for bolts, machine screws, nuts etc. Really good turnaround, prices based on amount you buy but with an excellent interface to make this clear. Limited range of things, but if you're looking for things to attach one thing to another thing they're great. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)

==3D Printer==
*[http://www.2engineers.com/ 2Engineers]
**Do ceramic hotends and low weight, high torque motors

==Wood==

==Plastic==
*[http://www.edplastics.co.uk/ Engineering & Design Plastics]
** Used these guys to buy heavy acrylic extrusions, they also do bending and custom manufacture.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)
*[http://www.ema-models.co.uk/ EMA Models]
** Range of architectural modelling stuff, in particular some unusual extrusion and cast acrylics.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:59, 16 March 2014 (UTC)

==Composites==
*[http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/ Easy Composites]
** Excellent range of carbon fibre cloth, rods, sheets, tubes etc. Expensive (but no more than anywhere else) but happy to supply small quantities and excellent shipping speed. Use when you really need to save weight in your projects! --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:55, 16 March 2014 (UTC)

==Jewlery/Glass==
See [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench#Consumables_and_Stock_.28to_pay_by_use.29 | Fine metalwork Bench Consumables and Stock]].
*[http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/ Warm Glass]
** I have an account with these guys and, due to buying the kiln on it, we get a 5% discount. I'm happy to put orders in as long as we combine them to over 75 pounds for shipping. If you do this you don't get the discount, but the money we save goes to common stock needed for the glassworking station such as bead release. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)
*[http://off-mandrel.com/ Off Mandrel]
** Used for the few things Warm Glass doesn't sell.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)

=Misc=
*[http://www.ebay.co.uk/ eBay]
*[http://amazon.co.uk/ Amazon]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/ AliExpress]
*[http://www.alibaba.com/ Alibaba]

=Tools=
==Hand==
==Powered==

=Services=
See [[Service_Suppliers]]
This page is for companies providing services for things that we can't do in-house.

*[http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/Acrow_Galvanizing.aspx Acrow Galvanizing] are the nearest hot-dip galvanizers AFAIK. (I don't think we're planning to get a `kettle' of hot zinc in Makespace itself.)
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/ Mackay]
*[http://www.facebook.com/WELDDONEcustomfabrication WeldDone]
*[http://www.mfg.com/ MFG]
**Chinese manufacturing portal, not used yet.

Suppliers

2014-03-16T12:55:14Z

Tomoinn:

Places to buy things

Self populated

=Electronics=
*[http://uk.farnell.com/ Farnell]
*[http://cpc.farnell.com/ CPC]
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/ RS Components]
*[http://www.rapidonline.com/ Rapid Electronics]
*[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/ Cool Components]
*[http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ HobbyTronics]
*[http://www.hobbyking.com/ HobbyKing]
*[http://proto-pic.co.uk/ Proto-Pic]
*[http://skpang.co.uk/ SKPang]
*[http://www.technobotsonline.com/ Technobots]
*[http://www.phenoptix.com/ Phenoptix]
*[http://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronic]
*[http://www.maplin.co.uk/ Maplin]
*[http://www.active-robots.com/ Active-Robots]
*[http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/ Gimson Robotics]
*Ragworm

==US==
NOTE: These shops will charge a lot for postage, Customs and VAT.
*[http://www.newark.com/ Newark]
*[http://www.digikey.co.uk/ Digikey]
*[http://sparkfun.com/ Sparkfun]
*[http://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit]
*[http://www.tindie.com/ Tindie]
*OSHPark

=Materials=

==Metals==
*[http://www.beltingonline.com/ Belting Online]
*[http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/ Bearing Boys]
*[http://simplybearings.co.uk/ Simply Bearings]
*[http://www.bearingstation.co.uk/ Bearing Station]
*[http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ KJN]
** "Highly recommended" - Mat C
*[http://www.motedis.co.uk/ Motedis]
**If you want to ask them anything, speak to Kris at kb@motedis.co.uk
*[http://uk.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]
**Call for best results
*Igus
**Difficult to buy from
*[http://www.worldofcnc.com/ World of CNC]
*[http://metals4u.co.uk Metals4U]
** Good selection, happy to do small quantities. Delivery is fast. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)
*[http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ Westfield Fasteners]
** Excellent for bolts, machine screws, nuts etc. Really good turnaround, prices based on amount you buy but with an excellent interface to make this clear. Limited range of things, but if you're looking for things to attach one thing to another thing they're great. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)

==3D Printer==
*[http://www.2engineers.com/ 2Engineers]
**Do ceramic hotends and low weight, high torque motors

==Wood==

==Plastic==

==Composites==
*[http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/ Easy Composites]
** Excellent range of carbon fibre cloth, rods, sheets, tubes etc. Expensive (but no more than anywhere else) but happy to supply small quantities and excellent shipping speed. Use when you really need to save weight in your projects! --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:55, 16 March 2014 (UTC)

==Jewlery/Glass==
See [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench#Consumables_and_Stock_.28to_pay_by_use.29 | Fine metalwork Bench Consumables and Stock]].
*[http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/ Warm Glass]
** I have an account with these guys and, due to buying the kiln on it, we get a 5% discount. I'm happy to put orders in as long as we combine them to over 75 pounds for shipping. If you do this you don't get the discount, but the money we save goes to common stock needed for the glassworking station such as bead release. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)
*[http://off-mandrel.com/ Off Mandrel]
** Used for the few things Warm Glass doesn't sell.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)

=Misc=
*[http://www.ebay.co.uk/ eBay]
*[http://amazon.co.uk/ Amazon]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/ AliExpress]
*[http://www.alibaba.com/ Alibaba]

=Tools=
==Hand==
==Powered==

=Services=
See [[Service_Suppliers]]
This page is for companies providing services for things that we can't do in-house.

*[http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/Acrow_Galvanizing.aspx Acrow Galvanizing] are the nearest hot-dip galvanizers AFAIK. (I don't think we're planning to get a `kettle' of hot zinc in Makespace itself.)
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/ Mackay]
*[http://www.facebook.com/WELDDONEcustomfabrication WeldDone]
*[http://www.mfg.com/ MFG]
**Chinese manufacturing portal, not used yet.

Suppliers

2014-03-16T12:52:40Z

Tomoinn: /* Jewlery/Glass */

Places to buy things

Self populated

=Electronics=
*[http://uk.farnell.com/ Farnell]
*[http://cpc.farnell.com/ CPC]
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/ RS Components]
*[http://www.rapidonline.com/ Rapid Electronics]
*[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/ Cool Components]
*[http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ HobbyTronics]
*[http://www.hobbyking.com/ HobbyKing]
*[http://proto-pic.co.uk/ Proto-Pic]
*[http://skpang.co.uk/ SKPang]
*[http://www.technobotsonline.com/ Technobots]
*[http://www.phenoptix.com/ Phenoptix]
*[http://www.kitronik.co.uk/ Kitronic]
*[http://www.maplin.co.uk/ Maplin]
*[http://www.active-robots.com/ Active-Robots]
*[http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/ Gimson Robotics]
*Ragworm
==US==
NOTE: These shops will charge a lot for postage, Customs and VAT.
*[http://www.newark.com/ Newark]
*[http://www.digikey.co.uk/ Digikey]
*[http://sparkfun.com/ Sparkfun]
*[http://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit]
*[http://www.tindie.com/ Tindie]
*OSHPark
=Materials=
==Metals==
*[http://www.beltingonline.com/ Belting Online]
*[http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/ Bearing Boys]
*[http://simplybearings.co.uk/ Simply Bearings]
*[http://www.bearingstation.co.uk/ Bearing Station]
*[http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ KJN]
** "Highly recommended" - Mat C
*[http://www.motedis.co.uk/ Motedis]
**If you want to ask them anything, speak to Kris at kb@motedis.co.uk
*[http://uk.misumi-ec.com/ Misumi]
**Call for best results
*Igus
**Difficult to buy from
*[http://www.worldofcnc.com/ World of CNC]
*[http://metals4u.co.uk Metals4U]
** Good selection, happy to do small quantities. Delivery is fast. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)
*[http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ Westfield Fasteners]
** Excellent for bolts, machine screws, nuts etc. Really good turnaround, prices based on amount you buy but with an excellent interface to make this clear. Limited range of things, but if you're looking for things to attach one thing to another thing they're great. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:48, 16 March 2014 (UTC)

==3D Printer==
*[http://www.2engineers.com/ 2Engineers]
**Do ceramic hotends and low weight, high torque motors
==Wood==
==Plastic==
==Jewlery/Glass==
See [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench#Consumables_and_Stock_.28to_pay_by_use.29 | Fine metalwork Bench Consumables and Stock]].

*[http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/ Warm Glass]
** I have an account with these guys and, due to buying the kiln on it, we get a 5% discount. I'm happy to put orders in as long as we combine them to over 75 pounds for shipping. If you do this you don't get the discount, but the money we save goes to common stock needed for the glassworking station such as bead release. --[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)
*[http://off-mandrel.com/ Off Mandrel]
** Used for the few things Warm Glass doesn't sell.--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 12:52, 16 March 2014 (UTC)

=Misc=
*[http://www.ebay.co.uk/ eBay]
*[http://amazon.co.uk/ Amazon]
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/ AliExpress]
*[http://www.alibaba.com/ Alibaba]

=Tools=
==Hand==
==Powered==

=Services=
See [[Service_Suppliers]]
This page is for companies providing services for things that we can't do in-house.

*[http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/Acrow_Galvanizing.aspx Acrow Galvanizing] are the nearest hot-dip galvanizers AFAIK. (I don't think we're planning to get a `kettle' of hot zinc in Makespace itself.)
*[http://www.mackay.co.uk/ Mackay]
*[http://www.facebook.com/WELDDONEcustomfabrication WeldDone]
*[http://www.mfg.com/ MFG]
**Chinese manufacturing portal, not used yet.

Suppliers

2014-03-16T12:48:30Z

Tomoinn: /* Metals */

Equipment/Laser Cutter Inkscape

2013-09-18T09:18:12Z

Tomoinn: /* Engraving text */

=Inkscape tricks=

A selection of hints to get the best out of Inkscape with our laser cutter. This applies to Inkscape 0.48.4.x and later, if you have an earlier version you should upgrade.

==Outline mode==

Inkscape can be put into outline mode, allowing you to see objects which have neither stroke nor fill. This is great because adding a stroke changes the dimensions of the object (slightly, but potentially enough to matter) and adding a fill makes it hard to see what you're doing. Select from ''''View->Display Mode->Outline''''. As an alternative a default fill with opacity of 10% works nicely when creating compound objects.

==Text on a path==

Easy to do, create a path, create some text and use the ''''Text->Put on Path'''' menu item. With the text selected you can use the letter and word spacing controls to get the text to completely fill the path (I needed this for the plaque as we wanted the lists of names to butt up to each end of the shape). At this point the text and the path are coupled together, so while you can move the text away if you delete or change the path it'll alter. To get outlines ready for the cutter select the text object and do ''''Path->Object to Path'''', you can then delete the original path object used to flow the text.

==Rounded rectangles==

If you try to use these the cutter will largely ignore them. Use the ''''Path->Object to Path'''' to convert them into a generic path before exporting.

Alternatively, enable the "use ROBO-Master type of spline output" (an option during saving) if your version of Inkscape supports it.

==Dashed paths==

The laser won't pay any attention to stroke styles you set in Inkscape. Recent versions, however, include an extension under ''''Modify Path -> Convert to Dashes'''' which will render whatever stroke style you've selected.

==Engraving text==

Regular fonts used by Inkscape and everything else are outline fonts, that is to say they're defined as a filled shape. When used by the laser cutter the laser will cut the outline of the font, which looks great for large characters but often very badly (and slowly) for small typefaces. There's an extension at http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2011/hershey-text-an-inkscape-extension-for-engraving-fonts/ which allows for the use of engraving fonts where the font is defined in terms of the path used by the cutting tool rather than an outline.

Note - the version of the library at that link is broken with modern (0.48.4) versions of Inkscape, I've fixed the problem and uploaded a patched version to https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/70831580/HersheyText.zip

==Exporting==

In the latest version of inkscape you have an option from ''''File->Save As'''' to save as ''''Desktop Cutting Plotter (AutoCAD DXF R14)''''. With the default options this seems to work perfectly with the laser, dimensions are preserved etc. If you don't have this option upgrade your version of inkscape, it appeared some point over the last month or two.

==Page and grid setup==

I find it easiest to get a sense of how big the piece is going to be if I set the page dimensions to those of the laser cutting bed, i.e. 900x600mm. You can do this from ''''File->Document Properties...'''' then entering a custom size, remember to change units to mm. At the same point you can create a grid, I use a 1cm grid with 1mm minor lines - select the ''''Grids'''' tab and click ''''New'''' to create a new rectangular grid, for the one I use set units to mm, spacing to 1 and major grid line every 10. I change the colours so I can see the major grid lines even when zoomed in fully. By default Inkscape won't actually use the grid, the buttons on the far right allow you to enable snap (first button from the top), to bounding boxes (second from top and subsequent four) and path nodes (the next group down). If you're not getting the snapping behaviour you expect play with turning these on. When snapping to path points it'll use the point closest to your mouse when you're dragging, so it matters where on the path you click!

Equipment/Laser Cutter Inkscape

2013-09-18T08:59:32Z

Tomoinn: /* Dashed paths */

=Inkscape tricks=

A selection of hints to get the best out of Inkscape with our laser cutter. This applies to Inkscape 0.48.4.x and later, if you have an earlier version you should upgrade.

==Outline mode==

Inkscape can be put into outline mode, allowing you to see objects which have neither stroke nor fill. This is great because adding a stroke changes the dimensions of the object (slightly, but potentially enough to matter) and adding a fill makes it hard to see what you're doing. Select from ''''View->Display Mode->Outline''''. As an alternative a default fill with opacity of 10% works nicely when creating compound objects.

==Text on a path==

Easy to do, create a path, create some text and use the ''''Text->Put on Path'''' menu item. With the text selected you can use the letter and word spacing controls to get the text to completely fill the path (I needed this for the plaque as we wanted the lists of names to butt up to each end of the shape). At this point the text and the path are coupled together, so while you can move the text away if you delete or change the path it'll alter. To get outlines ready for the cutter select the text object and do ''''Path->Object to Path'''', you can then delete the original path object used to flow the text.

==Rounded rectangles==

If you try to use these the cutter will largely ignore them. Use the ''''Path->Object to Path'''' to convert them into a generic path before exporting.

Alternatively, enable the "use ROBO-Master type of spline output" (an option during saving) if your version of Inkscape supports it.

==Dashed paths==

The laser won't pay any attention to stroke styles you set in Inkscape. Recent versions, however, include an extension under ''''Modify Path -> Convert to Dashes'''' which will render whatever stroke style you've selected.

==Engraving text==

Regular fonts used by Inkscape and everything else are outline fonts, that is to say they're defined as a filled shape. When used by the laser cutter the laser will cut the outline of the font, which looks great for large characters but often very badly (and slowly) for small typefaces. There's an extension at http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2011/hershey-text-an-inkscape-extension-for-engraving-fonts/ which allows for the use of engraving fonts where the font is defined in terms of the path used by the cutting tool rather than an outline.

==Exporting==

In the latest version of inkscape you have an option from ''''File->Save As'''' to save as ''''Desktop Cutting Plotter (AutoCAD DXF R14)''''. With the default options this seems to work perfectly with the laser, dimensions are preserved etc. If you don't have this option upgrade your version of inkscape, it appeared some point over the last month or two.

==Page and grid setup==

I find it easiest to get a sense of how big the piece is going to be if I set the page dimensions to those of the laser cutting bed, i.e. 900x600mm. You can do this from ''''File->Document Properties...'''' then entering a custom size, remember to change units to mm. At the same point you can create a grid, I use a 1cm grid with 1mm minor lines - select the ''''Grids'''' tab and click ''''New'''' to create a new rectangular grid, for the one I use set units to mm, spacing to 1 and major grid line every 10. I change the colours so I can see the major grid lines even when zoomed in fully. By default Inkscape won't actually use the grid, the buttons on the far right allow you to enable snap (first button from the top), to bounding boxes (second from top and subsequent four) and path nodes (the next group down). If you're not getting the snapping behaviour you expect play with turning these on. When snapping to path points it'll use the point closest to your mouse when you're dragging, so it matters where on the path you click!

Equipment/Laser Cutter Inkscape

2013-09-18T08:59:01Z

Tomoinn: /* Inkscape tricks */

=Inkscape tricks=

A selection of hints to get the best out of Inkscape with our laser cutter. This applies to Inkscape 0.48.4.x and later, if you have an earlier version you should upgrade.

==Outline mode==

Inkscape can be put into outline mode, allowing you to see objects which have neither stroke nor fill. This is great because adding a stroke changes the dimensions of the object (slightly, but potentially enough to matter) and adding a fill makes it hard to see what you're doing. Select from ''''View->Display Mode->Outline''''. As an alternative a default fill with opacity of 10% works nicely when creating compound objects.

==Text on a path==

Easy to do, create a path, create some text and use the ''''Text->Put on Path'''' menu item. With the text selected you can use the letter and word spacing controls to get the text to completely fill the path (I needed this for the plaque as we wanted the lists of names to butt up to each end of the shape). At this point the text and the path are coupled together, so while you can move the text away if you delete or change the path it'll alter. To get outlines ready for the cutter select the text object and do ''''Path->Object to Path'''', you can then delete the original path object used to flow the text.

==Rounded rectangles==

If you try to use these the cutter will largely ignore them. Use the ''''Path->Object to Path'''' to convert them into a generic path before exporting.

Alternatively, enable the "use ROBO-Master type of spline output" (an option during saving) if your version of Inkscape supports it.

==Dashed paths==

The laser won't pay any attention to stroke styles you set in Inkscape. Recent versions, however, include an extension under 'Modify Path' -> 'Convert to Dashes' which will render whatever stroke style you've selected.

==Engraving text==

Regular fonts used by Inkscape and everything else are outline fonts, that is to say they're defined as a filled shape. When used by the laser cutter the laser will cut the outline of the font, which looks great for large characters but often very badly (and slowly) for small typefaces. There's an extension at http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2011/hershey-text-an-inkscape-extension-for-engraving-fonts/ which allows for the use of engraving fonts where the font is defined in terms of the path used by the cutting tool rather than an outline.

==Exporting==

In the latest version of inkscape you have an option from ''''File->Save As'''' to save as ''''Desktop Cutting Plotter (AutoCAD DXF R14)''''. With the default options this seems to work perfectly with the laser, dimensions are preserved etc. If you don't have this option upgrade your version of inkscape, it appeared some point over the last month or two.

==Page and grid setup==

I find it easiest to get a sense of how big the piece is going to be if I set the page dimensions to those of the laser cutting bed, i.e. 900x600mm. You can do this from ''''File->Document Properties...'''' then entering a custom size, remember to change units to mm. At the same point you can create a grid, I use a 1cm grid with 1mm minor lines - select the ''''Grids'''' tab and click ''''New'''' to create a new rectangular grid, for the one I use set units to mm, spacing to 1 and major grid line every 10. I change the colours so I can see the major grid lines even when zoomed in fully. By default Inkscape won't actually use the grid, the buttons on the far right allow you to enable snap (first button from the top), to bounding boxes (second from top and subsequent four) and path nodes (the next group down). If you're not getting the snapping behaviour you expect play with turning these on. When snapping to path points it'll use the point closest to your mouse when you're dragging, so it matters where on the path you click!

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-09-16T10:32:26Z

Tomoinn: /* LEDs and displays */

[[File:bbbbb.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Big box!]]
= Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits =

We have a box of bits containing Arduinos for use in the space along with an assortment of sensors, motors, lights and other things you might need to make up a project. It lives in... (to be confirmed, currently it lives in my kitchen, obviously that won't be its final location!)

This page exists to catalogue the contents of the box along with any notes on how to use each modules, including links to Arduino libraries, datasheets, photos showing pinouts and suchlike. Basically if you've figured out how to use a module through extensive googling and experimentation here is where you can share that knowledge with everyone else. Use your signatures to claim credit!

== Policies ==

This is not primarily intended to be used as stock for people's projects, rather it's there to provide a lending library of parts for use at events such as the [[Arduino and Cake]] sessions and [[Family Makers]]. That said, none of the parts are particularly expensive and we try to have a reasonable number of them so if you really need something for a project right now, aren't going to be taking the last one of something and are prepared to provide a replacement in non ludicrous time that's probably fine. If unsure ask on the mailing list! Most things here have been bought from sellers from the far East on eBay, so while they're cheap the lead times are often quite lengthy.

There's a section at the end of this page for requests - if there's something you'd like to have access to and which is of general use (i.e. not for just one project you have in mind) add some details and we'll see whether we can source it at an appropriate price. If something goes wrong and the magic white smoke escapes from something please make a note in the section for the component or module concerned, that way we know it's broken and can either fix or replace it (and tell everyone how to avoid the same thing happening again)

== What's in the Box? ==

Contents of the box, both current and planned. Things that have arrived and are ready for use are marked in {{Done|this colour}}. We need photos and documentation for everything on this list!

{|class="wikitable" style="background-color: #fff"
!colspan="4"|Spotter's Guide
|-
{{Cell|max7219matrix.jpg|Max7219 based dot matrix display}}
{{Cell|max7219segment.jpg|Max7219 based seven segment LED display}}
{{Cell|steppermotor.jpg|5v stepper motor}}
{{Cell|steppermotordriver.jpg|Driver board for 5v stepper motor}}
|-
{{Cell2|nrf24l01.jpg|NRF24L01 radio modules}}
{{Cell2|irbeambreak.jpg|IR beam break detector}}
{{Cell2|dht11.jpg|DHT11 temperature / humidity sensor}}
{{Cell2|barometric.jpg|Barometric pressure sensor}}
|-
{{Cell|deadservo.jpg|Geared 6v motor (ex servo)}}
{{Cell|bagofleds.jpg|Assorted pink, green, orange and blue LEDs}}
{{Cell|mpu6050.jpg|MPU6050 six axis motion sensor}}
{{Cell|arduinonano.jpg|Arduino nano v3}}
|-
{{Cell2|nanoethernet.jpg|Arduino nano ethernet shield}}
{{Cell2|lcddisplay.jpg|Blue LCD display}}
{{Cell2|9gservo.jpg|9g servo and accessories}}
{{Cell2|ultrasoundranger.jpg|Ultrasonic rangefinder board}}
|-
{{Cell|hbridge.jpg|Dual H-bridge module}}
{{Cell|cablesoflurve.jpg|Cables of lurve}}

|}

=== Arduinos ===

;{{Done|6x Arduino Nano v3}}
: Breadboard compatible Arduinos with ATMega328 processors. Note that the 3.3v rail is driven from the FTDI chip (the part that interfaces with USB) so is only available when powered through the USB cable (in other cases use a 3.3v regulator). If supplying external power remember to use the VIn pin and not the 5v one, even if you think you have a regulated power supply.

=== Sensors and Input Devices ===

;{{Done|3x DHT11 temperature and humidity Sensors}}
: These modules break out the three usable pins on the DHT11 sensors

;{{Done|MPU6050 based 6 axis motion sensor board}}
: I2C based motion processor, contains a 3 axis gyroscope in conjunction with a 3 axis linear accelerometer and an embedded DSP

;{{Done|1x Barometric pressure sensor board}}
: Not tested yet, but believed to be a [http://learn.adafruit.com/bmp085/using-the-bmp085-api-v2 BMP085], which if so is capable of resolving pressure differences corresponding to about 20cm of altitude, very nifty!

;{{Done|Ultrasonic rangefinders}}
: Modules with an ultrasonic emitter / receiver pair and the logic to calculate distance to a reflecting object based on timing.

=== Motors and other Output Devices ===

;{{Done|12x Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
: H-Bridge modules, used to interface to high power devices including motors and drive them from the logic level signals on the Arduino.

;{{Done|1x hacked HiTec HS-625MG}}
: A tough servo with the servo bits removed, now just acts as a high quality electric motor with a gearbox. Drive at 5-6v and use conventional PWM / H-Bridge to alter its speed and direction.

;{{Done|10x 9g servo motors}}
: Basic servo motors. Use the Servo or modified Servo2 library (the latter for when you need to drive more than a couple of servos at a time from the Arduino)

;{{Done|4x 5V stepper motors with driver boards}}
: Document how to make them work here (Martin?) - there's more info on these exact boards along with example code [http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/SmallSteppers here], yet to be tried but they look identical!

=== Communications ===

;{{Done|10x NRF24L01 Radio Modules}}
: Short range radio modules, use the mIRF library. (edit - we've lost one, there are now nine of them....)

;{{Done|2x Arduino nano ethernet shields}}
: Stackable modules providing an ethernet jack

=== LEDs and displays ===

;{{Done|High brightness LEDs}}
: 20 each of four different colours (pink, green, blue and orange) 5mm LEDs, remember to use current limiting resistors or a constant current source when driving them!

;{{Done|4x LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
: Dot matrix displays, single colour with drivers

<span style='font-family: monospace; display: block; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 6px; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;background-color: #f9f9f9;'>/* MAX7219 Example  
 * Tom Oinn, 16th September 2013 
 * Drive our dot matrix and 7+1 segment displays using the LedControl  
 * library, download from http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LedControl 
 */ 
#include <LedControl.h> 
 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'DIN' on the module */ 
int DATA = 5; 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'CS' on the module */ 
int CS = 6; 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'CLK' on the module */ 
int CLOCK = 7; 
 
/*  
 * Number of displays connected, more displays can be chained 
 * together by connecting the (hopefully) obvious pins. Displays 
 * are numbered with display 1 being at the end of the chain if 
 * you have more than one. 
 */ 
int DISPLAYS = 3; 
 
/*  
 * Create a new LedControl object, passing in the data,  
 * clock, chip select and number of displays  
 */ 
LedControl lc = LedControl(DATA, CLOCK, CS, DISPLAYS); 
 
/* Initialise the displays */ 
void setup() { 
  for (int n = 0; n < DISPLAYS; n++) { 
    lc.shutdown(n,false); 
    lc.setIntensity(n,8); 
    lc.clearDisplay(n); 
  } 
} 
 
/* Used to allow the sin wave to animate */ 
float offset = 0.0; 
 
void loop() { 
  /* Iterate over the total number of rows, i.e. DISPLAYS * 8 */ 
  for (int i = 0 ; i < DISPLAYS <<3; i++) { 
    /* For each row work out where we want the dot for a sin wave */ 
    int shift = (int)((sin(offset + ((float)(i)*0.6))+1.0)*4.0); 
    /* 
     * Set the row to be that value, we'd use columns but our 
     * are the wrong shape on the boards to do that. Columns would 
     * be more efficient and require fewer shift operations internally 
     */ 
    lc.setRow(i>>3, i & 7, 1<<shift);  
  } 
  /* Increment the offset, add a delay and go around again */ 
  offset += PI / 16; 
  delay(50); 
} 


;{{Done|2x Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
: Standard 'calculator style' seven segment displays in a module of eight of them with associated driver circuitry.

;{{Done|4x LCD 20x4 character displays}}
: LCD character displays, serial protocol (probably!) to drive them.

=== Everything else ===

;{{Done|2x IR correlation modules}}
: IR beam break sensors with amplifiers to provide a clean signal. Not tested yet!

;10x Playstation style joysticks
: Analogue joysticks with an embedded press button

;{{Done|Male to male and male to female jumper leads}}
: A load of long jump leads with pins and sockets (depending on type) to make it easier to interface to modules such as the NRF24L which have otherwise awkward pin layouts and can't be directly connected to a breadboard. Update - these are now here, and are so full of lurve that they're unsafe to use unless you are singing 'The Power of Love' by Huey Lewis and the News while doing so. This will be enforced.

== Requests ==

Put your requests for parts here...

At the moment I think we could do with some regular DC motors, some switches, potentiometers, piezo speakers and battery packs (ideally with a few regulator boards capable of providing clean 3.3v, 5v and possibly 12v feeds from the same). We can make the boards, potentially. Even better for power would be a few LiPo packs, again with regulators and suitable chargers.

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-09-16T10:24:42Z

Tomoinn: /* LEDs and displays */

[[File:bbbbb.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Big box!]]
= Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits =

We have a box of bits containing Arduinos for use in the space along with an assortment of sensors, motors, lights and other things you might need to make up a project. It lives in... (to be confirmed, currently it lives in my kitchen, obviously that won't be its final location!)

This page exists to catalogue the contents of the box along with any notes on how to use each modules, including links to Arduino libraries, datasheets, photos showing pinouts and suchlike. Basically if you've figured out how to use a module through extensive googling and experimentation here is where you can share that knowledge with everyone else. Use your signatures to claim credit!

== Policies ==

This is not primarily intended to be used as stock for people's projects, rather it's there to provide a lending library of parts for use at events such as the [[Arduino and Cake]] sessions and [[Family Makers]]. That said, none of the parts are particularly expensive and we try to have a reasonable number of them so if you really need something for a project right now, aren't going to be taking the last one of something and are prepared to provide a replacement in non ludicrous time that's probably fine. If unsure ask on the mailing list! Most things here have been bought from sellers from the far East on eBay, so while they're cheap the lead times are often quite lengthy.

There's a section at the end of this page for requests - if there's something you'd like to have access to and which is of general use (i.e. not for just one project you have in mind) add some details and we'll see whether we can source it at an appropriate price. If something goes wrong and the magic white smoke escapes from something please make a note in the section for the component or module concerned, that way we know it's broken and can either fix or replace it (and tell everyone how to avoid the same thing happening again)

== What's in the Box? ==

Contents of the box, both current and planned. Things that have arrived and are ready for use are marked in {{Done|this colour}}. We need photos and documentation for everything on this list!

{|class="wikitable" style="background-color: #fff"
!colspan="4"|Spotter's Guide
|-
{{Cell|max7219matrix.jpg|Max7219 based dot matrix display}}
{{Cell|max7219segment.jpg|Max7219 based seven segment LED display}}
{{Cell|steppermotor.jpg|5v stepper motor}}
{{Cell|steppermotordriver.jpg|Driver board for 5v stepper motor}}
|-
{{Cell2|nrf24l01.jpg|NRF24L01 radio modules}}
{{Cell2|irbeambreak.jpg|IR beam break detector}}
{{Cell2|dht11.jpg|DHT11 temperature / humidity sensor}}
{{Cell2|barometric.jpg|Barometric pressure sensor}}
|-
{{Cell|deadservo.jpg|Geared 6v motor (ex servo)}}
{{Cell|bagofleds.jpg|Assorted pink, green, orange and blue LEDs}}
{{Cell|mpu6050.jpg|MPU6050 six axis motion sensor}}
{{Cell|arduinonano.jpg|Arduino nano v3}}
|-
{{Cell2|nanoethernet.jpg|Arduino nano ethernet shield}}
{{Cell2|lcddisplay.jpg|Blue LCD display}}
{{Cell2|9gservo.jpg|9g servo and accessories}}
{{Cell2|ultrasoundranger.jpg|Ultrasonic rangefinder board}}
|-
{{Cell|hbridge.jpg|Dual H-bridge module}}
{{Cell|cablesoflurve.jpg|Cables of lurve}}

|}

=== Arduinos ===

;{{Done|6x Arduino Nano v3}}
: Breadboard compatible Arduinos with ATMega328 processors. Note that the 3.3v rail is driven from the FTDI chip (the part that interfaces with USB) so is only available when powered through the USB cable (in other cases use a 3.3v regulator). If supplying external power remember to use the VIn pin and not the 5v one, even if you think you have a regulated power supply.

=== Sensors and Input Devices ===

;{{Done|3x DHT11 temperature and humidity Sensors}}
: These modules break out the three usable pins on the DHT11 sensors

;{{Done|MPU6050 based 6 axis motion sensor board}}
: I2C based motion processor, contains a 3 axis gyroscope in conjunction with a 3 axis linear accelerometer and an embedded DSP

;{{Done|1x Barometric pressure sensor board}}
: Not tested yet, but believed to be a [http://learn.adafruit.com/bmp085/using-the-bmp085-api-v2 BMP085], which if so is capable of resolving pressure differences corresponding to about 20cm of altitude, very nifty!

;{{Done|Ultrasonic rangefinders}}
: Modules with an ultrasonic emitter / receiver pair and the logic to calculate distance to a reflecting object based on timing.

=== Motors and other Output Devices ===

;{{Done|12x Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
: H-Bridge modules, used to interface to high power devices including motors and drive them from the logic level signals on the Arduino.

;{{Done|1x hacked HiTec HS-625MG}}
: A tough servo with the servo bits removed, now just acts as a high quality electric motor with a gearbox. Drive at 5-6v and use conventional PWM / H-Bridge to alter its speed and direction.

;{{Done|10x 9g servo motors}}
: Basic servo motors. Use the Servo or modified Servo2 library (the latter for when you need to drive more than a couple of servos at a time from the Arduino)

;{{Done|4x 5V stepper motors with driver boards}}
: Document how to make them work here (Martin?) - there's more info on these exact boards along with example code [http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/SmallSteppers here], yet to be tried but they look identical!

=== Communications ===

;{{Done|10x NRF24L01 Radio Modules}}
: Short range radio modules, use the mIRF library. (edit - we've lost one, there are now nine of them....)

;{{Done|2x Arduino nano ethernet shields}}
: Stackable modules providing an ethernet jack

=== LEDs and displays ===

;{{Done|High brightness LEDs}}
: 20 each of four different colours (pink, green, blue and orange) 5mm LEDs, remember to use current limiting resistors or a constant current source when driving them!

;{{Done|4x LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
: Dot matrix displays, single colour with drivers

<span style='font-family: monospace; display: block; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 6px; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;background-color: #f9f9f9;'>/* MAX7219 Example  
 * Tom Oinn, 16th September 2013 
 * Drive our dot matrix and 7+1 segment displays using the LedControl  
 * library, download from http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LedControl 
 */ 
#include <LedControl.h> 
 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'DIN' on the module */ 
int DATA = 5; 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'CS' on the module */ 
int CS = 6; 
/* Digital pin connected to the 'CLK' on the module */ 
int CLOCK = 7; 
 
/*  
 * Number of displays connected, more displays can be chained 
 * together by connecting the (hopefully) obvious pins. Displays 
 * are numbered with display 1 being at the end of the chain if 
 * you have more than one. 
 */ 
int DISPLAYS = 3; 
 
/*  
 * Create a new LedControl object, passing in the data,  
 * clock, chip select and number of displays  
 */ 
LedControl lc = LedControl(DATA, CLOCK, CS, DISPLAYS); 
 
void setup() { 
  for (int n = 0; n < DISPLAYS; n++) { 
    lc.shutdown(n,false); 
    lc.setIntensity(n,8); 
    lc.clearDisplay(n); 
  } 
} 
 
float offset = 0.0; 
 
void loop() { 
  for (int i = 0 ; i < DISPLAYS <<3; i++) { 
    int shift = (int)((sin(offset + ((float)(i)*0.6))+1.0)*4.0); 
    lc.setRow(i>>3, i & 7, 1<<shift);  
  } 
  offset += PI / 16; 
  delay(50); 
} 


;{{Done|2x Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
: Standard 'calculator style' seven segment displays in a module of eight of them with associated driver circuitry.

;{{Done|4x LCD 20x4 character displays}}
: LCD character displays, serial protocol (probably!) to drive them.

=== Everything else ===

;{{Done|2x IR correlation modules}}
: IR beam break sensors with amplifiers to provide a clean signal. Not tested yet!

;10x Playstation style joysticks
: Analogue joysticks with an embedded press button

;{{Done|Male to male and male to female jumper leads}}
: A load of long jump leads with pins and sockets (depending on type) to make it easier to interface to modules such as the NRF24L which have otherwise awkward pin layouts and can't be directly connected to a breadboard. Update - these are now here, and are so full of lurve that they're unsafe to use unless you are singing 'The Power of Love' by Huey Lewis and the News while doing so. This will be enforced.

== Requests ==

Put your requests for parts here...

At the moment I think we could do with some regular DC motors, some switches, potentiometers, piezo speakers and battery packs (ideally with a few regulator boards capable of providing clean 3.3v, 5v and possibly 12v feeds from the same). We can make the boards, potentially. Even better for power would be a few LiPo packs, again with regulators and suitable chargers.

Arduino and Cake

2013-09-13T13:40:27Z

Tomoinn: /* Sessions */

[[File:P1100161.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Cake!]]
[[File:P1100164.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Arduino!]]
[[File:P1100162.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Happy Hacking!]]
[[File:P1100160.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The temperature sensor, it lives!]]
[[File:P1100163.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Step step step...]]

= Arduino and Cake =

This is a page of information for the (hopefully) regular 'Arduino and Cake' event we run at Makespace. This is an evening where we get together in the space to learn and hack on projects involving the Arduino and similar microcontrollers. As the name suggests, there's also cake!

If you're a complete beginner to microcontrollers (tiny, very cheap computers without an operating system, files, display, keyboard...) this is a great opportunity to come and play with them. Experts also very welcome, in fact we need you to help the new people! Possible things you can do with an Arduino (a particularly easy to use microcontroller board) range from simple flashing lights up to acting as the brains of an autonomous flying robot, managing your hydroponic gardening project or tweeting the current temperature of your hot water tank. This get-together is intended to help those of us for whom imagination exceeds expertise (that is to say, pretty much everyone I know), let's build cool things together :)

== Sessions ==

The plan is to have this as regularly as possible, varying the day around in case people can't make a particular day of the week.

# Our first session, with all levels of experience from complete novices to expert embedded programmers. Everyone paired up, with beginners and experts working together; judging from the happy buzz of making noises (both the noise of making, and the making of noises - we had buzzers!) it worked pretty well. The meetup page for the first go is [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/130569572/ on meetup here]
# The second one was on the 8th of August; meetup event [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/132710342/ here], big copies of the photos (which are lurking on the right hand side of this very page) [http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomoinn/sets/72157634991866826/ here] :) Some of the bits for the Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits arrived, temperature and humidity sensors and stepper motor drivers yielded to sugar driven curiosity.
# The third was on the 16th August, slightly slower mostly as was distracted wiring cables but we made the dot matrix displays work (mostly) and Martin hacked some more on his sky tracking camera mount. Meetup event page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/134508292/ here]
# The fourth was on the 28th August, no robots as we had some issues with the new Arduinos (it turned out later that they didn't have bootloaders, now fixed). The meetup event was [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/135690182/ here]

Next meeting looks like being Thursday 19th August, otherwise we'll class with the OCaml people on the Wednesday. Meetup page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/140024592/ here] - sign up! Bring cake! Bring friends! (particularly friends with cake) Make bleepy flashing things that run around the room!

== Helpful links ==

Arduino home page : [http://www.arduino.cc/ www.arduino.cc] 
A bunch of useful little circuits to play with: [http://www.pighixxx.com/abc-arduino-basic-connections/ Arduino Basic Connections]

== Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits (BBBBB) ==

We've had approval to buy some bits and pieces for people to play with at this event, and generally within Makespace so I've done an eBay dive and ordered the following, these will arrive sometime over the next month or so:

# {{Done|80 high brightness LEDs (20 each of orange, green, blue and pink!)}}
# {{Done|4 LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Ethernet shields for the Arduino Nano}}
# {{Done|4 LCD 20x4 character displays}}
# {{Done|8 Motion sensors (6 degrees of freedom MPU6050 based with 3 axis gyro and 3 axis accelerometer)}}
# {{Done|6 Arduino Nano v3 boards (ATMega328, mounts on a breadboard)}}
# {{Done|12 Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
# {{Done|3 Temperature / Relative humidity sensor modules}}
# {{Done|2 IR correlation sensor modules (the kind where you have a beam which outputs a signal when broken, good for detecting rotation etc)}}
# {{Done|10 Small servo motors (9g plastic type)}}
# {{Done|6 Ultrasonic rangefinder modules, detect bounce from around 20cm to 3m}}
# {{Done|4 Stepper motors with driver modules, 5v supply}}
# {{Done|1 Barometric pressure sensor module}}
# 10 Playstation style joysticks, the little analogue ones with a built in pushbutton on breakout boards
# {{Done|10 NRF24L01 radio modules, short (~100m) range radio modules capable of transmitting packets of 3 bytes at around 2Mbits/second under ideal conditions}}
# {{Done|A lot of somewhat longer jumper leads (20cm and 30cm) both male to male and male to female, the latter being particularly useful for connecting to the radio modules as they have a non-breadboard-friendly pin layout (or we can make boards with the PCB mill)}}

Total budget for all the above including shipping is 270GBP (you get a lot of electronics for you money when buying from the far East!)

As and when these appear at my house I'll bring them in and add them to the BBBBB - I'm planning to buy a decent size box with compartments to keep these in, both as convenient access and as a way to monitor attrition (these are cheap, but the cheapness comes with long lead times). These bits will be for use at Makespace, rather than for consumption but as long as we have enough items we can be flexible on that; I think if someone has ordered a Nano, say, there's no reason we can't lend them one of the kit ones while they wait for it to turn up.

'''Update''' - we now have the box and some of the bits, I'm marking bits which have arrived and are now in the box in {{Done|this colour}} in the list above. At the moment the box is waiting to be documented and have the components properly marked, it'll then be left in Makespace and hopefully its contents won't evaporate too fast!

'''Update 14th August 2013''' - The BBBBB has its own wiki page at [[Arduino and Cake/Big Box]] where we'll try to document everything as it arrives. Add information to that page if you find something interesting about a part we have, it's also the place to put requests for components and modules.

'''Update 20th August 2013''' - More bits have arrived, we're almost complete! The next session should result in robots, or I'll be severely displeased.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 10:22, 20 August 2013 (BST)

== Projects ==

Got an interesting project or a project idea? Add it here.

=== Vehicle monitor / heating controller ===

I've re-wired my Land Rover, using a star topology, with a big central "ganglion" which almost all the wires run to and from. There's an extra wire coming from each connection, that will go to a board of LEDs and voltage dividers, the latter feeding into an Arduino Mega, which will monitor just about everything, and display information on a small LCD panel.

I'm also planning to make a motorized heater control system (moving flaps to direct air from an Eberspacher) and the valve motors will be driven from relays on the Arduino.

And there'll be a GPS/GSM security unit, and eventually a Linux board (probably Pandaboard) running navigation software. And later on, I hope, an electric motor to drive the extra axle I added. The Arduino Mega will route data between all these points, with its multiple hardware UARTS, as well as sending out information it converts locally from its own inputs.

I expect the software will be a main loop that polls all UARTs for incoming information, all wiring lines for changes from their previous state, all heating valve position sensors for whether they've reached the right position, all pedals for information to send to the traction motor controller when fitted, and does the associated actions (for example, NMEA sentences from the GPS get forwarded to the Linux board for navigation and are also used to display the time on the LCD, heating switches update the desired positions for flap valves).

[[User:JCGS|JCGS]] 15:00, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Quadcopter ===

Because everyone loves autonomous flying robots surrounded by razor sharp rotating propellers, right?

A friend and I are working on a full self build of a quad rotor, we have the airframe, motors, props, speed controllers and an arduino with a combined gyro / accelerometer mounted. We just need to add batteries, wireless comms and software. I don't know whether I can persuade Si to come along to this meeting, he's not a member, but that's one of the things I'm playing with at the moment. I'm using the MPU6050 and PID libraries to manage the feedback between the accelerometer and the speed controllers in an attempt to get a stable hover mode, and the NRF24L01 as the radio module.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Bottle rocket telemetry ===

The family makers are making bottle rockets, I thought it'd be cool to try to make a telemetry module that would tell them how high they'd gone and render a 3d trace of the trajectory using either Processing or WebGL. The main challenge here is to get the circuitry small enough and tough enough to be carried by the rockets and then survive the return to ground level! The second issue is power, I have a LiPo battery and charger so should just be a case of a 3.3v regulator but maybe it needs a boost converter, not really my area of expertise so I'd really like some help there.

At the moment I'm interested in using an ATTiny85 (8 pin dip package MCU) as an Arduino, using the MPU6050 gyro / accelerometer and an XBee v2 radio - I'd use the NRF24 radio but I think it needs more pins than I have available on the ATTiny. Another option would be to use a rather more sophisticated Arduino pro mini, more pins means the NRF radio would be an option which is much cheaper than the XBee modules.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== I2C plant moisture sensors ===

Program an ATTiny85 as an I2C slave, embedding it onto a circuit board etched to work as a capacitive moisture sensor. Use Arduino nano with ethernet shield as an I2C master to then monitor the moisture levels in my various outdoor plant pots and tweet when they're getting too dry.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Breadboard prototype of a 1D Pong Game ===

The idea is to prototype a simple 1D pong game (see [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgQg1DVY4Xc YouTube]) on Arduino or other microcontroller.

Features:
*Some kind of startup animation (similar to the YouTube video)
*A scoreboard or something similar. Based maybe on a segmented display or LCD.
*SOUNDS! :-)
*Perhaps some different game modes, maybe "powerups" of some kind?

Eventually I would like this to be the start of a '''MUCH''' larger version of the game (but that's for the future ;-))

--[[User:DannyG|DannyG]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Self-levelling camera gimbal ===

One popular use of quadcopters is aerial photography/videography, but for this you ideally need a stabilised camera mounting. It's relatively easy to fabricate a two-axis gimbal for a small camera like a GoPro, driven by servos, which can hold itself level using readings from a gyro/accelerometer board.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Barn door sky tracker ===
* Goal: take long exposure photos of the sky.
* Problem: the sky rotates over the course of a long exposure.
* Solution: make a motorised mount which rotates your camera at the same rate.

I'm aiming to build a simple "barn door" mount (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker) to enable me to take long exposure sky photos. At its simplest this is two hinged pieces of wood connected by a threaded rod which you turn slowly to increase the angle at the hinge. I'd like to drive this with a stepper motor so it can be left running, and ideally let the Arduino do some of the maths to compensate for the changing geometry of the mount.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Electricity monitor and TRIAC based resistive load driver ===

I need to modulate a large resistive heating load on AC with a TRIAC: whole cycle and half cycle burst fire with some supervisory decision making process to make it comply with the EMC directives. I also need to monitor the power delivered by integrating current and voltage over the waveform and integrating the lot. It would be useful to estimate the supply impedance and/or internal resistance of the load using the same hardware. A lot of this is similar to work done on the Open Energy Monitor by the Solar-PV folks trying to game the tax system - with added EMC directives...

[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/]
[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/node/841]

[[User:markocosic|markocosic]] 17:37, 21 August 2013 (BST)

== Custom Arduino IDE Build ==

I'm working on a custom version of the Arduino IDE to, amongst other things, allow us to cut and paste code from the IDE directly into this wiki. I've made that particular change on my own clone of the code, the adventurous can check it out from https://github.com/tomoinn/Arduino/tree/ide-1.5.x; you'll need to do the following (only tested on linux thus far!)


> git clone git@github.com:tomoinn/Arduino.git 
> git checkout ide-1.5.x 
> cd Arduino/build 
> ant run


You should then have a version of the IDE based on version 1.5 but with an extra context menu option 'copy as MediaWiki HTML', if you use this and then copy the clipboard into an editor in our wiki you should get something like the following:

<span style='font-family: monospace; display: block; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 6px; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;background-color: #f9f9f9;'>/* 
  Blink 
 Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second, repeatedly. 
  
 This example code is in the public domain. 
 */ 
 
// Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards. 
// give it a name: 
int led = 13; 
 
// the setup routine runs once when you press reset: 
void setup() { 
  // initialize the digital pin as an output. 
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT); 
} 
 
// the loop routine runs over and over again forever: 
void loop() { 
  digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
  digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
} 


Should make putting example code up easier - I'm also thinking of customizing colours, logo etc to create a makespace edition of the IDE. As and when it becomes a bit more stable I'll start doing proper builds for linux and windows at least. Note that cloning the github repository takes a long time, it's going on for 600Mb of data, potentially you can cut that down by only cloning the ide-1.5.x branch if you're familiar with git.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 14:09, 13 September 2013 (BST)

Arduino and Cake

2013-09-13T13:09:27Z

Tomoinn: /* Arduino and Cake */

[[File:P1100161.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Cake!]]
[[File:P1100164.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Arduino!]]
[[File:P1100162.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Happy Hacking!]]
[[File:P1100160.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The temperature sensor, it lives!]]
[[File:P1100163.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Step step step...]]

= Arduino and Cake =

This is a page of information for the (hopefully) regular 'Arduino and Cake' event we run at Makespace. This is an evening where we get together in the space to learn and hack on projects involving the Arduino and similar microcontrollers. As the name suggests, there's also cake!

If you're a complete beginner to microcontrollers (tiny, very cheap computers without an operating system, files, display, keyboard...) this is a great opportunity to come and play with them. Experts also very welcome, in fact we need you to help the new people! Possible things you can do with an Arduino (a particularly easy to use microcontroller board) range from simple flashing lights up to acting as the brains of an autonomous flying robot, managing your hydroponic gardening project or tweeting the current temperature of your hot water tank. This get-together is intended to help those of us for whom imagination exceeds expertise (that is to say, pretty much everyone I know), let's build cool things together :)

== Sessions ==

The plan is to have this as regularly as possible, varying the day around in case people can't make a particular day of the week.

# Our first session, with all levels of experience from complete novices to expert embedded programmers. Everyone paired up, with beginners and experts working together; judging from the happy buzz of making noises (both the noise of making, and the making of noises - we had buzzers!) it worked pretty well. The meetup page for the first go is [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/130569572/ on meetup here]
# The second one was on the 8th of August; meetup event [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/132710342/ here], big copies of the photos (which are lurking on the right hand side of this very page) [http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomoinn/sets/72157634991866826/ here] :) Some of the bits for the Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits arrived, temperature and humidity sensors and stepper motor drivers yielded to sugar driven curiosity.
# The third was on the 16th August, slightly slower mostly as was distracted wiring cables but we made the dot matrix displays work (mostly) and Martin hacked some more on his sky tracking camera mount. Meetup event page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/134508292/ here]

The next meeting will be on Wednesday 28th August - sign up on meetup.com [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/135690182/ here] - let's make some robots :)

== Helpful links ==

Arduino home page : [http://www.arduino.cc/ www.arduino.cc] 
A bunch of useful little circuits to play with: [http://www.pighixxx.com/abc-arduino-basic-connections/ Arduino Basic Connections]

== Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits (BBBBB) ==

We've had approval to buy some bits and pieces for people to play with at this event, and generally within Makespace so I've done an eBay dive and ordered the following, these will arrive sometime over the next month or so:

# {{Done|80 high brightness LEDs (20 each of orange, green, blue and pink!)}}
# {{Done|4 LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Ethernet shields for the Arduino Nano}}
# {{Done|4 LCD 20x4 character displays}}
# {{Done|8 Motion sensors (6 degrees of freedom MPU6050 based with 3 axis gyro and 3 axis accelerometer)}}
# {{Done|6 Arduino Nano v3 boards (ATMega328, mounts on a breadboard)}}
# {{Done|12 Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
# {{Done|3 Temperature / Relative humidity sensor modules}}
# {{Done|2 IR correlation sensor modules (the kind where you have a beam which outputs a signal when broken, good for detecting rotation etc)}}
# {{Done|10 Small servo motors (9g plastic type)}}
# {{Done|6 Ultrasonic rangefinder modules, detect bounce from around 20cm to 3m}}
# {{Done|4 Stepper motors with driver modules, 5v supply}}
# {{Done|1 Barometric pressure sensor module}}
# 10 Playstation style joysticks, the little analogue ones with a built in pushbutton on breakout boards
# {{Done|10 NRF24L01 radio modules, short (~100m) range radio modules capable of transmitting packets of 3 bytes at around 2Mbits/second under ideal conditions}}
# {{Done|A lot of somewhat longer jumper leads (20cm and 30cm) both male to male and male to female, the latter being particularly useful for connecting to the radio modules as they have a non-breadboard-friendly pin layout (or we can make boards with the PCB mill)}}

Total budget for all the above including shipping is 270GBP (you get a lot of electronics for you money when buying from the far East!)

As and when these appear at my house I'll bring them in and add them to the BBBBB - I'm planning to buy a decent size box with compartments to keep these in, both as convenient access and as a way to monitor attrition (these are cheap, but the cheapness comes with long lead times). These bits will be for use at Makespace, rather than for consumption but as long as we have enough items we can be flexible on that; I think if someone has ordered a Nano, say, there's no reason we can't lend them one of the kit ones while they wait for it to turn up.

'''Update''' - we now have the box and some of the bits, I'm marking bits which have arrived and are now in the box in {{Done|this colour}} in the list above. At the moment the box is waiting to be documented and have the components properly marked, it'll then be left in Makespace and hopefully its contents won't evaporate too fast!

'''Update 14th August 2013''' - The BBBBB has its own wiki page at [[Arduino and Cake/Big Box]] where we'll try to document everything as it arrives. Add information to that page if you find something interesting about a part we have, it's also the place to put requests for components and modules.

'''Update 20th August 2013''' - More bits have arrived, we're almost complete! The next session should result in robots, or I'll be severely displeased.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 10:22, 20 August 2013 (BST)

== Projects ==

Got an interesting project or a project idea? Add it here.

=== Vehicle monitor / heating controller ===

I've re-wired my Land Rover, using a star topology, with a big central "ganglion" which almost all the wires run to and from. There's an extra wire coming from each connection, that will go to a board of LEDs and voltage dividers, the latter feeding into an Arduino Mega, which will monitor just about everything, and display information on a small LCD panel.

I'm also planning to make a motorized heater control system (moving flaps to direct air from an Eberspacher) and the valve motors will be driven from relays on the Arduino.

And there'll be a GPS/GSM security unit, and eventually a Linux board (probably Pandaboard) running navigation software. And later on, I hope, an electric motor to drive the extra axle I added. The Arduino Mega will route data between all these points, with its multiple hardware UARTS, as well as sending out information it converts locally from its own inputs.

I expect the software will be a main loop that polls all UARTs for incoming information, all wiring lines for changes from their previous state, all heating valve position sensors for whether they've reached the right position, all pedals for information to send to the traction motor controller when fitted, and does the associated actions (for example, NMEA sentences from the GPS get forwarded to the Linux board for navigation and are also used to display the time on the LCD, heating switches update the desired positions for flap valves).

[[User:JCGS|JCGS]] 15:00, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Quadcopter ===

Because everyone loves autonomous flying robots surrounded by razor sharp rotating propellers, right?

A friend and I are working on a full self build of a quad rotor, we have the airframe, motors, props, speed controllers and an arduino with a combined gyro / accelerometer mounted. We just need to add batteries, wireless comms and software. I don't know whether I can persuade Si to come along to this meeting, he's not a member, but that's one of the things I'm playing with at the moment. I'm using the MPU6050 and PID libraries to manage the feedback between the accelerometer and the speed controllers in an attempt to get a stable hover mode, and the NRF24L01 as the radio module.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Bottle rocket telemetry ===

The family makers are making bottle rockets, I thought it'd be cool to try to make a telemetry module that would tell them how high they'd gone and render a 3d trace of the trajectory using either Processing or WebGL. The main challenge here is to get the circuitry small enough and tough enough to be carried by the rockets and then survive the return to ground level! The second issue is power, I have a LiPo battery and charger so should just be a case of a 3.3v regulator but maybe it needs a boost converter, not really my area of expertise so I'd really like some help there.

At the moment I'm interested in using an ATTiny85 (8 pin dip package MCU) as an Arduino, using the MPU6050 gyro / accelerometer and an XBee v2 radio - I'd use the NRF24 radio but I think it needs more pins than I have available on the ATTiny. Another option would be to use a rather more sophisticated Arduino pro mini, more pins means the NRF radio would be an option which is much cheaper than the XBee modules.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== I2C plant moisture sensors ===

Program an ATTiny85 as an I2C slave, embedding it onto a circuit board etched to work as a capacitive moisture sensor. Use Arduino nano with ethernet shield as an I2C master to then monitor the moisture levels in my various outdoor plant pots and tweet when they're getting too dry.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Breadboard prototype of a 1D Pong Game ===

The idea is to prototype a simple 1D pong game (see [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgQg1DVY4Xc YouTube]) on Arduino or other microcontroller.

Features:
*Some kind of startup animation (similar to the YouTube video)
*A scoreboard or something similar. Based maybe on a segmented display or LCD.
*SOUNDS! :-)
*Perhaps some different game modes, maybe "powerups" of some kind?

Eventually I would like this to be the start of a '''MUCH''' larger version of the game (but that's for the future ;-))

--[[User:DannyG|DannyG]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Self-levelling camera gimbal ===

One popular use of quadcopters is aerial photography/videography, but for this you ideally need a stabilised camera mounting. It's relatively easy to fabricate a two-axis gimbal for a small camera like a GoPro, driven by servos, which can hold itself level using readings from a gyro/accelerometer board.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Barn door sky tracker ===
* Goal: take long exposure photos of the sky.
* Problem: the sky rotates over the course of a long exposure.
* Solution: make a motorised mount which rotates your camera at the same rate.

I'm aiming to build a simple "barn door" mount (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker) to enable me to take long exposure sky photos. At its simplest this is two hinged pieces of wood connected by a threaded rod which you turn slowly to increase the angle at the hinge. I'd like to drive this with a stepper motor so it can be left running, and ideally let the Arduino do some of the maths to compensate for the changing geometry of the mount.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Electricity monitor and TRIAC based resistive load driver ===

I need to modulate a large resistive heating load on AC with a TRIAC: whole cycle and half cycle burst fire with some supervisory decision making process to make it comply with the EMC directives. I also need to monitor the power delivered by integrating current and voltage over the waveform and integrating the lot. It would be useful to estimate the supply impedance and/or internal resistance of the load using the same hardware. A lot of this is similar to work done on the Open Energy Monitor by the Solar-PV folks trying to game the tax system - with added EMC directives...

[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/]
[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/node/841]

[[User:markocosic|markocosic]] 17:37, 21 August 2013 (BST)

== Custom Arduino IDE Build ==

I'm working on a custom version of the Arduino IDE to, amongst other things, allow us to cut and paste code from the IDE directly into this wiki. I've made that particular change on my own clone of the code, the adventurous can check it out from https://github.com/tomoinn/Arduino/tree/ide-1.5.x; you'll need to do the following (only tested on linux thus far!)


> git clone git@github.com:tomoinn/Arduino.git 
> git checkout ide-1.5.x 
> cd Arduino/build 
> ant run


You should then have a version of the IDE based on version 1.5 but with an extra context menu option 'copy as MediaWiki HTML', if you use this and then copy the clipboard into an editor in our wiki you should get something like the following:

<span style='font-family: monospace; display: block; margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 10px; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 6px; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px;background-color: #f9f9f9;'>/* 
  Blink 
 Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second, repeatedly. 
  
 This example code is in the public domain. 
 */ 
 
// Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards. 
// give it a name: 
int led = 13; 
 
// the setup routine runs once when you press reset: 
void setup() { 
  // initialize the digital pin as an output. 
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT); 
} 
 
// the loop routine runs over and over again forever: 
void loop() { 
  digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
  digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW 
  delay(1000); // wait for a second 
} 


Should make putting example code up easier - I'm also thinking of customizing colours, logo etc to create a makespace edition of the IDE. As and when it becomes a bit more stable I'll start doing proper builds for linux and windows at least. Note that cloning the github repository takes a long time, it's going on for 600Mb of data, potentially you can cut that down by only cloning the ide-1.5.x branch if you're familiar with git.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 14:09, 13 September 2013 (BST)

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-09-12T14:28:24Z

Tomoinn: /* Requests */

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-09-12T14:25:17Z

Tomoinn: /* Communications */

Arduino and Cake

2013-09-12T14:24:11Z

Tomoinn: /* Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits (BBBBB) */

[[File:P1100161.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Cake!]]
[[File:P1100164.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Arduino!]]
[[File:P1100162.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Happy Hacking!]]
[[File:P1100160.jpg|200px|thumb|right|The temperature sensor, it lives!]]
[[File:P1100163.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Step step step...]]

= Arduino and Cake =

This is a page of information for the (hopefully) regular 'Arduino and Cake' event we run at Makespace. This is an evening where we get together in the space to learn and hack on projects involving the Arduino and similar microcontrollers. As the name suggests, there's also cake!

If you're a complete beginner to microcontrollers (tiny, very cheap computers without an operating system, files, display, keyboard...) this is a great opportunity to come and play with them. Experts also very welcome, in fact we need you to help the new people! Possible things you can do with an Arduino (a particularly easy to use microcontroller board) range from simple flashing lights up to acting as the brains of an autonomous flying robot, managing your hydroponic gardening project or tweeting the current temperature of your hot water tank. This get-together is intended to help those of us for whom imagination exceeds expertise (that is to say, pretty much everyone I know), let's build cool things together :)

== Sessions ==

The plan is to have this as regularly as possible, varying the day around in case people can't make a particular day of the week.

# Our first session, with all levels of experience from complete novices to expert embedded programmers. Everyone paired up, with beginners and experts working together; judging from the happy buzz of making noises (both the noise of making, and the making of noises - we had buzzers!) it worked pretty well. The meetup page for the first go is [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/130569572/ on meetup here]
# The second one was on the 8th of August; meetup event [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/132710342/ here], big copies of the photos (which are lurking on the right hand side of this very page) [http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomoinn/sets/72157634991866826/ here] :) Some of the bits for the Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits arrived, temperature and humidity sensors and stepper motor drivers yielded to sugar driven curiosity.
# The third was on the 16th August, slightly slower mostly as was distracted wiring cables but we made the dot matrix displays work (mostly) and Martin hacked some more on his sky tracking camera mount. Meetup event page [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/134508292/ here]

The next meeting will be on Wednesday 28th August - sign up on meetup.com [http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/135690182/ here] - let's make some robots :)

== Helpful links ==

Arduino home page : [http://www.arduino.cc/ www.arduino.cc] 
A bunch of useful little circuits to play with: [http://www.pighixxx.com/abc-arduino-basic-connections/ Arduino Basic Connections]

== Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits (BBBBB) ==

We've had approval to buy some bits and pieces for people to play with at this event, and generally within Makespace so I've done an eBay dive and ordered the following, these will arrive sometime over the next month or so:

# {{Done|80 high brightness LEDs (20 each of orange, green, blue and pink!)}}
# {{Done|4 LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
# {{Done|2 Ethernet shields for the Arduino Nano}}
# {{Done|4 LCD 20x4 character displays}}
# {{Done|8 Motion sensors (6 degrees of freedom MPU6050 based with 3 axis gyro and 3 axis accelerometer)}}
# {{Done|6 Arduino Nano v3 boards (ATMega328, mounts on a breadboard)}}
# {{Done|12 Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors}}
# {{Done|3 Temperature / Relative humidity sensor modules}}
# {{Done|2 IR correlation sensor modules (the kind where you have a beam which outputs a signal when broken, good for detecting rotation etc)}}
# {{Done|10 Small servo motors (9g plastic type)}}
# {{Done|6 Ultrasonic rangefinder modules, detect bounce from around 20cm to 3m}}
# {{Done|4 Stepper motors with driver modules, 5v supply}}
# {{Done|1 Barometric pressure sensor module}}
# 10 Playstation style joysticks, the little analogue ones with a built in pushbutton on breakout boards
# {{Done|10 NRF24L01 radio modules, short (~100m) range radio modules capable of transmitting packets of 3 bytes at around 2Mbits/second under ideal conditions}}
# {{Done|A lot of somewhat longer jumper leads (20cm and 30cm) both male to male and male to female, the latter being particularly useful for connecting to the radio modules as they have a non-breadboard-friendly pin layout (or we can make boards with the PCB mill)}}

Total budget for all the above including shipping is 270GBP (you get a lot of electronics for you money when buying from the far East!)

As and when these appear at my house I'll bring them in and add them to the BBBBB - I'm planning to buy a decent size box with compartments to keep these in, both as convenient access and as a way to monitor attrition (these are cheap, but the cheapness comes with long lead times). These bits will be for use at Makespace, rather than for consumption but as long as we have enough items we can be flexible on that; I think if someone has ordered a Nano, say, there's no reason we can't lend them one of the kit ones while they wait for it to turn up.

'''Update''' - we now have the box and some of the bits, I'm marking bits which have arrived and are now in the box in {{Done|this colour}} in the list above. At the moment the box is waiting to be documented and have the components properly marked, it'll then be left in Makespace and hopefully its contents won't evaporate too fast!

'''Update 14th August 2013''' - The BBBBB has its own wiki page at [[Arduino and Cake/Big Box]] where we'll try to document everything as it arrives. Add information to that page if you find something interesting about a part we have, it's also the place to put requests for components and modules.

'''Update 20th August 2013''' - More bits have arrived, we're almost complete! The next session should result in robots, or I'll be severely displeased.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 10:22, 20 August 2013 (BST)

== Projects ==

Got an interesting project or a project idea? Add it here.

=== Vehicle monitor / heating controller ===

I've re-wired my Land Rover, using a star topology, with a big central "ganglion" which almost all the wires run to and from. There's an extra wire coming from each connection, that will go to a board of LEDs and voltage dividers, the latter feeding into an Arduino Mega, which will monitor just about everything, and display information on a small LCD panel.

I'm also planning to make a motorized heater control system (moving flaps to direct air from an Eberspacher) and the valve motors will be driven from relays on the Arduino.

And there'll be a GPS/GSM security unit, and eventually a Linux board (probably Pandaboard) running navigation software. And later on, I hope, an electric motor to drive the extra axle I added. The Arduino Mega will route data between all these points, with its multiple hardware UARTS, as well as sending out information it converts locally from its own inputs.

I expect the software will be a main loop that polls all UARTs for incoming information, all wiring lines for changes from their previous state, all heating valve position sensors for whether they've reached the right position, all pedals for information to send to the traction motor controller when fitted, and does the associated actions (for example, NMEA sentences from the GPS get forwarded to the Linux board for navigation and are also used to display the time on the LCD, heating switches update the desired positions for flap valves).

[[User:JCGS|JCGS]] 15:00, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Quadcopter ===

Because everyone loves autonomous flying robots surrounded by razor sharp rotating propellers, right?

A friend and I are working on a full self build of a quad rotor, we have the airframe, motors, props, speed controllers and an arduino with a combined gyro / accelerometer mounted. We just need to add batteries, wireless comms and software. I don't know whether I can persuade Si to come along to this meeting, he's not a member, but that's one of the things I'm playing with at the moment. I'm using the MPU6050 and PID libraries to manage the feedback between the accelerometer and the speed controllers in an attempt to get a stable hover mode, and the NRF24L01 as the radio module.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Bottle rocket telemetry ===

The family makers are making bottle rockets, I thought it'd be cool to try to make a telemetry module that would tell them how high they'd gone and render a 3d trace of the trajectory using either Processing or WebGL. The main challenge here is to get the circuitry small enough and tough enough to be carried by the rockets and then survive the return to ground level! The second issue is power, I have a LiPo battery and charger so should just be a case of a 3.3v regulator but maybe it needs a boost converter, not really my area of expertise so I'd really like some help there.

At the moment I'm interested in using an ATTiny85 (8 pin dip package MCU) as an Arduino, using the MPU6050 gyro / accelerometer and an XBee v2 radio - I'd use the NRF24 radio but I think it needs more pins than I have available on the ATTiny. Another option would be to use a rather more sophisticated Arduino pro mini, more pins means the NRF radio would be an option which is much cheaper than the XBee modules.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== I2C plant moisture sensors ===

Program an ATTiny85 as an I2C slave, embedding it onto a circuit board etched to work as a capacitive moisture sensor. Use Arduino nano with ethernet shield as an I2C master to then monitor the moisture levels in my various outdoor plant pots and tweet when they're getting too dry.

--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Breadboard prototype of a 1D Pong Game ===

The idea is to prototype a simple 1D pong game (see [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgQg1DVY4Xc YouTube]) on Arduino or other microcontroller.

Features:
*Some kind of startup animation (similar to the YouTube video)
*A scoreboard or something similar. Based maybe on a segmented display or LCD.
*SOUNDS! :-)
*Perhaps some different game modes, maybe "powerups" of some kind?

Eventually I would like this to be the start of a '''MUCH''' larger version of the game (but that's for the future ;-))

--[[User:DannyG|DannyG]] 15:12, 2 August 2013 (BST)

=== Self-levelling camera gimbal ===

One popular use of quadcopters is aerial photography/videography, but for this you ideally need a stabilised camera mounting. It's relatively easy to fabricate a two-axis gimbal for a small camera like a GoPro, driven by servos, which can hold itself level using readings from a gyro/accelerometer board.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Barn door sky tracker ===
* Goal: take long exposure photos of the sky.
* Problem: the sky rotates over the course of a long exposure.
* Solution: make a motorised mount which rotates your camera at the same rate.

I'm aiming to build a simple "barn door" mount (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker) to enable me to take long exposure sky photos. At its simplest this is two hinged pieces of wood connected by a threaded rod which you turn slowly to increase the angle at the hinge. I'd like to drive this with a stepper motor so it can be left running, and ideally let the Arduino do some of the maths to compensate for the changing geometry of the mount.

[[User:Martin de S|Martin de S]] 12:25, 13 August 2013 (BST)

=== Electricity monitor and TRIAC based resistive load driver ===

I need to modulate a large resistive heating load on AC with a TRIAC: whole cycle and half cycle burst fire with some supervisory decision making process to make it comply with the EMC directives. I also need to monitor the power delivered by integrating current and voltage over the waveform and integrating the lot. It would be useful to estimate the supply impedance and/or internal resistance of the load using the same hardware. A lot of this is similar to work done on the Open Energy Monitor by the Solar-PV folks trying to game the tax system - with added EMC directives...

[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/]
[http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/node/841]

[[User:markocosic|markocosic]] 17:37, 21 August 2013 (BST)

Arduino and Cake

2013-08-20T09:22:56Z

Tomoinn: /* Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits (BBBBB) */

Arduino and Cake

2013-08-20T09:20:56Z

Tomoinn: /* Sessions */

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-20T09:12:10Z

Tomoinn: /* Everything else */

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-20T09:11:07Z

Tomoinn: /* LEDs and displays */

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-20T09:10:54Z

Tomoinn: /* Motors and other Output Devices */

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-20T09:10:30Z

Tomoinn: /* Sensors and Input Devices */

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-20T09:10:10Z

Tomoinn: /* Arduinos */

File:Bbbbb.jpg

2013-08-20T09:09:36Z

Tomoinn:

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-20T09:09:07Z

Tomoinn:

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-20T09:07:41Z

Tomoinn: /* What's in the Box? */

= Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits =

We have a box of bits containing Arduinos for use in the space along with an assortment of sensors, motors, lights and other things you might need to make up a project. It lives in... (to be confirmed, currently it lives in my kitchen, obviously that won't be its final location!)

This page exists to catalogue the contents of the box along with any notes on how to use each modules, including links to Arduino libraries, datasheets, photos showing pinouts and suchlike. Basically if you've figured out how to use a module through extensive googling and experimentation here is where you can share that knowledge with everyone else. Use your signatures to claim credit!

== Policies ==

This is not primarily intended to be used as stock for people's projects, rather it's there to provide a lending library of parts for use at events such as the [[Arduino and Cake]] sessions and [[Family Makers]]. That said, none of the parts are particularly expensive and we try to have a reasonable number of them so if you really need something for a project right now, aren't going to be taking the last one of something and are prepared to provide a replacement in non ludicrous time that's probably fine. If unsure ask on the mailing list! Most things here have been bought from sellers from the far East on eBay, so while they're cheap the lead times are often quite lengthy.

There's a section at the end of this page for requests - if there's something you'd like to have access to and which is of general use (i.e. not for just one project you have in mind) add some details and we'll see whether we can source it at an appropriate price. If something goes wrong and the magic white smoke escapes from something please make a note in the section for the component or module concerned, that way we know it's broken and can either fix or replace it (and tell everyone how to avoid the same thing happening again)

== What's in the Box? ==

Contents of the box, both current and planned. Things that have arrived and are ready for use are marked in {{Done|this colour}}. We need photos and documentation for everything on this list!

{|class="wikitable" style="background-color: #fff"
!colspan="4"|Spotter's Guide
|-
{{Cell|max7219matrix.jpg|Max7219 based dot matrix display}}
{{Cell|max7219segment.jpg|Max7219 based seven segment LED display}}
{{Cell|steppermotor.jpg|5v stepper motor}}
{{Cell|steppermotordriver.jpg|Driver board for 5v stepper motor}}
|-
{{Cell2|nrf24l01.jpg|NRF24L01 radio modules}}
{{Cell2|irbeambreak.jpg|IR beam break detector}}
{{Cell2|dht11.jpg|DHT11 temperature / humidity sensor}}
{{Cell2|barometric.jpg|Barometric pressure sensor}}
|-
{{Cell|deadservo.jpg|Geared 6v motor (ex servo)}}
{{Cell|bagofleds.jpg|Assorted pink, green, orange and blue LEDs}}
{{Cell|mpu6050.jpg|MPU6050 six axis motion sensor}}
{{Cell|arduinonano.jpg|Arduino nano v3}}
|-
{{Cell2|nanoethernet.jpg|Arduino nano ethernet shield}}
{{Cell2|lcddisplay.jpg|Blue LCD display}}
{{Cell2|9gservo.jpg|9g servo and accessories}}
{{Cell2|ultrasoundranger.jpg|Ultrasonic rangefinder board}}
|-
{{Cell|hbridge.jpg|Dual H-bridge module}}
{{Cell|cablesoflurve.jpg|Cables of lurve}}

|}

=== Arduinos ===

;6x Arduino Nano v3
: Breadboard compatible Arduinos with ATMega328 processors. Note that the 3.3v rail is driven from the FTDI chip (the part that interfaces with USB) so is only available when powered through the USB cable (in other cases use a 3.3v regulator). If supplying external power remember to use the VIn pin and not the 5v one, even if you think you have a regulated power supply.

=== Sensors and Input Devices ===

;{{Done|3x DHT11 temperature and humidity Sensors}}
: These modules break out the three usable pins on the DHT11 sensors

;MPU6050 based 6 axis motion sensor board
: I2C based motion processor, contains a 3 axis gyroscope in conjunction with a 3 axis linear accelerometer and an embedded DSP

;{{Done|1x Barometric pressure sensor board}}
: Not tested yet, but believed to be a [http://learn.adafruit.com/bmp085/using-the-bmp085-api-v2 BMP085], which if so is capable of resolving pressure differences corresponding to about 20cm of altitude, very nifty!

;Ultrasonic rangefinders
: Modules with an ultrasonic emitter / receiver pair and the logic to calculate distance to a reflecting object based on timing.

=== Motors and other Output Devices ===

;12x Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors
: H-Bridge modules, used to interface to high power devices including motors and drive them from the logic level signals on the Arduino.

;{{Done|1x hacked HiTec HS-625MG}}
: A tough servo with the servo bits removed, now just acts as a high quality electric motor with a gearbox. Drive at 5-6v and use conventional PWM / H-Bridge to alter its speed and direction.

;10x 9g servo motors
: Not here yet, but basic servo motors. Use the Servo or modified Servo2 library (the latter for when you need to drive more than a couple of servos at a time from the Arduino)

;{{Done|4x 5V stepper motors with driver boards}}
: Document how to make them work here (Martin?) - there's more info on these exact boards along with example code [http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/SmallSteppers here], yet to be tried but they look identical!

=== Communications ===

;{{Done|10x NRF24L01 Radio Modules}}
: Short range radio modules, use the mIRF library.

;2x Arduino nano ethernet shields
: Stackable modules providing an ethernet jack

=== LEDs and displays ===

;{{Done|High brightness LEDs}}
: 20 each of four different colours (pink, green, blue and orange) 5mm LEDs, remember to use current limiting resistors or a constant current source when driving them!

;{{Done|4x LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
: Dot matrix displays, single colour with drivers

;{{Done|2x Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
: Standard 'calculator style' seven segment displays in a module of eight of them with associated driver circuitry.

;4x LCD 20x4 character displays
: LCD character displays, serial protocol (probably!) to drive them.

=== Everything else ===

;{{Done|2x IR correlation modules}}
: IR beam break sensors with amplifiers to provide a clean signal. Not tested yet!

;10x Playstation style joysticks
: Analogue joysticks with an embedded press button

;Male to male and male to female jumper leads
: A load of long jump leads with pins and sockets (depending on type) to make it easier to interface to modules such as the NRF24L which have otherwise awkward pin layouts and can't be directly connected to a breadboard.

== Requests ==

Put your requests for parts here...

File:Cablesoflurve.jpg

2013-08-20T09:07:26Z

Tomoinn:

File:Hbridge.jpg

2013-08-20T09:06:44Z

Tomoinn:

File:Ultrasoundranger.jpg

2013-08-20T09:05:51Z

Tomoinn:

File:9gservo.jpg

2013-08-20T09:05:16Z

Tomoinn:

File:Lcddisplay.jpg

2013-08-20T09:04:25Z

Tomoinn:

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-20T00:35:13Z

Tomoinn: /* Sensors and Input Devices */

= Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits =

We have a box of bits containing Arduinos for use in the space along with an assortment of sensors, motors, lights and other things you might need to make up a project. It lives in... (to be confirmed, currently it lives in my kitchen, obviously that won't be its final location!)

This page exists to catalogue the contents of the box along with any notes on how to use each modules, including links to Arduino libraries, datasheets, photos showing pinouts and suchlike. Basically if you've figured out how to use a module through extensive googling and experimentation here is where you can share that knowledge with everyone else. Use your signatures to claim credit!

== Policies ==

This is not primarily intended to be used as stock for people's projects, rather it's there to provide a lending library of parts for use at events such as the [[Arduino and Cake]] sessions and [[Family Makers]]. That said, none of the parts are particularly expensive and we try to have a reasonable number of them so if you really need something for a project right now, aren't going to be taking the last one of something and are prepared to provide a replacement in non ludicrous time that's probably fine. If unsure ask on the mailing list! Most things here have been bought from sellers from the far East on eBay, so while they're cheap the lead times are often quite lengthy.

There's a section at the end of this page for requests - if there's something you'd like to have access to and which is of general use (i.e. not for just one project you have in mind) add some details and we'll see whether we can source it at an appropriate price. If something goes wrong and the magic white smoke escapes from something please make a note in the section for the component or module concerned, that way we know it's broken and can either fix or replace it (and tell everyone how to avoid the same thing happening again)

== What's in the Box? ==

Contents of the box, both current and planned. Things that have arrived and are ready for use are marked in {{Done|this colour}}. We need photos and documentation for everything on this list!

{|class="wikitable" style="background-color: #fff"
!colspan="4"|Spotter's Guide
|-
{{Cell|max7219matrix.jpg|Max7219 based dot matrix display}}
{{Cell|max7219segment.jpg|Max7219 based seven segment LED display}}
{{Cell|steppermotor.jpg|5v stepper motor}}
{{Cell|steppermotordriver.jpg|Driver board for 5v stepper motor}}
|-
{{Cell2|nrf24l01.jpg|NRF24L01 radio modules}}
{{Cell2|irbeambreak.jpg|IR beam break detector}}
{{Cell2|dht11.jpg|DHT11 temperature / humidity sensor}}
{{Cell2|barometric.jpg|Barometric pressure sensor}}
|-
{{Cell|deadservo.jpg|Geared 6v motor (ex servo)}}
{{Cell|bagofleds.jpg|Assorted pink, green, orange and blue LEDs}}
{{Cell|mpu6050.jpg|MPU6050 six axis motion sensor}}
{{Cell|arduinonano.jpg|Arduino nano v3}}
|-
{{Cell2|nanoethernet.jpg|Arduino nano ethernet shield}}
|}

=== Arduinos ===

;6x Arduino Nano v3
: Breadboard compatible Arduinos with ATMega328 processors. Note that the 3.3v rail is driven from the FTDI chip (the part that interfaces with USB) so is only available when powered through the USB cable (in other cases use a 3.3v regulator). If supplying external power remember to use the VIn pin and not the 5v one, even if you think you have a regulated power supply.

=== Sensors and Input Devices ===

;{{Done|3x DHT11 temperature and humidity Sensors}}
: These modules break out the three usable pins on the DHT11 sensors

;MPU6050 based 6 axis motion sensor board
: I2C based motion processor, contains a 3 axis gyroscope in conjunction with a 3 axis linear accelerometer and an embedded DSP

;{{Done|1x Barometric pressure sensor board}}
: Not tested yet, but believed to be a [http://learn.adafruit.com/bmp085/using-the-bmp085-api-v2 BMP085], which if so is capable of resolving pressure differences corresponding to about 20cm of altitude, very nifty!

;Ultrasonic rangefinders
: Modules with an ultrasonic emitter / receiver pair and the logic to calculate distance to a reflecting object based on timing.

=== Motors and other Output Devices ===

;12x Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors
: H-Bridge modules, used to interface to high power devices including motors and drive them from the logic level signals on the Arduino.

;{{Done|1x hacked HiTec HS-625MG}}
: A tough servo with the servo bits removed, now just acts as a high quality electric motor with a gearbox. Drive at 5-6v and use conventional PWM / H-Bridge to alter its speed and direction.

;10x 9g servo motors
: Not here yet, but basic servo motors. Use the Servo or modified Servo2 library (the latter for when you need to drive more than a couple of servos at a time from the Arduino)

;{{Done|4x 5V stepper motors with driver boards}}
: Document how to make them work here (Martin?) - there's more info on these exact boards along with example code [http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/SmallSteppers here], yet to be tried but they look identical!

=== Communications ===

;{{Done|10x NRF24L01 Radio Modules}}
: Short range radio modules, use the mIRF library.

;2x Arduino nano ethernet shields
: Stackable modules providing an ethernet jack

=== LEDs and displays ===

;{{Done|High brightness LEDs}}
: 20 each of four different colours (pink, green, blue and orange) 5mm LEDs, remember to use current limiting resistors or a constant current source when driving them!

;{{Done|4x LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
: Dot matrix displays, single colour with drivers

;{{Done|2x Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
: Standard 'calculator style' seven segment displays in a module of eight of them with associated driver circuitry.

;4x LCD 20x4 character displays
: LCD character displays, serial protocol (probably!) to drive them.

=== Everything else ===

;{{Done|2x IR correlation modules}}
: IR beam break sensors with amplifiers to provide a clean signal. Not tested yet!

;10x Playstation style joysticks
: Analogue joysticks with an embedded press button

;Male to male and male to female jumper leads
: A load of long jump leads with pins and sockets (depending on type) to make it easier to interface to modules such as the NRF24L which have otherwise awkward pin layouts and can't be directly connected to a breadboard.

== Requests ==

Put your requests for parts here...

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-20T00:17:37Z

Tomoinn: /* Motors and other Output Devices */

= Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits =

We have a box of bits containing Arduinos for use in the space along with an assortment of sensors, motors, lights and other things you might need to make up a project. It lives in... (to be confirmed, currently it lives in my kitchen, obviously that won't be its final location!)

This page exists to catalogue the contents of the box along with any notes on how to use each modules, including links to Arduino libraries, datasheets, photos showing pinouts and suchlike. Basically if you've figured out how to use a module through extensive googling and experimentation here is where you can share that knowledge with everyone else. Use your signatures to claim credit!

== Policies ==

This is not primarily intended to be used as stock for people's projects, rather it's there to provide a lending library of parts for use at events such as the [[Arduino and Cake]] sessions and [[Family Makers]]. That said, none of the parts are particularly expensive and we try to have a reasonable number of them so if you really need something for a project right now, aren't going to be taking the last one of something and are prepared to provide a replacement in non ludicrous time that's probably fine. If unsure ask on the mailing list! Most things here have been bought from sellers from the far East on eBay, so while they're cheap the lead times are often quite lengthy.

There's a section at the end of this page for requests - if there's something you'd like to have access to and which is of general use (i.e. not for just one project you have in mind) add some details and we'll see whether we can source it at an appropriate price. If something goes wrong and the magic white smoke escapes from something please make a note in the section for the component or module concerned, that way we know it's broken and can either fix or replace it (and tell everyone how to avoid the same thing happening again)

== What's in the Box? ==

Contents of the box, both current and planned. Things that have arrived and are ready for use are marked in {{Done|this colour}}. We need photos and documentation for everything on this list!

{|class="wikitable" style="background-color: #fff"
!colspan="4"|Spotter's Guide
|-
{{Cell|max7219matrix.jpg|Max7219 based dot matrix display}}
{{Cell|max7219segment.jpg|Max7219 based seven segment LED display}}
{{Cell|steppermotor.jpg|5v stepper motor}}
{{Cell|steppermotordriver.jpg|Driver board for 5v stepper motor}}
|-
{{Cell2|nrf24l01.jpg|NRF24L01 radio modules}}
{{Cell2|irbeambreak.jpg|IR beam break detector}}
{{Cell2|dht11.jpg|DHT11 temperature / humidity sensor}}
{{Cell2|barometric.jpg|Barometric pressure sensor}}
|-
{{Cell|deadservo.jpg|Geared 6v motor (ex servo)}}
{{Cell|bagofleds.jpg|Assorted pink, green, orange and blue LEDs}}
{{Cell|mpu6050.jpg|MPU6050 six axis motion sensor}}
{{Cell|arduinonano.jpg|Arduino nano v3}}
|-
{{Cell2|nanoethernet.jpg|Arduino nano ethernet shield}}
|}

=== Arduinos ===

;6x Arduino Nano v3
: Breadboard compatible Arduinos with ATMega328 processors. Note that the 3.3v rail is driven from the FTDI chip (the part that interfaces with USB) so is only available when powered through the USB cable (in other cases use a 3.3v regulator). If supplying external power remember to use the VIn pin and not the 5v one, even if you think you have a regulated power supply.

=== Sensors and Input Devices ===

;{{Done|3x DHT11 temperature and humidity Sensors}}
: These modules break out the three usable pins on the DHT11 sensors

;MPU6050 based 6 axis motion sensor board
: I2C based motion processor, contains a 3 axis gyroscope in conjunction with a 3 axis linear accelerometer and an embedded DSP

;{{Done|1x Barometric pressure sensor board}}
: Not tested yet!

;Ultrasonic rangefinders
: Modules with an ultrasonic emitter / receiver pair and the logic to calculate distance to a reflecting object based on timing.

=== Motors and other Output Devices ===

;12x Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors
: H-Bridge modules, used to interface to high power devices including motors and drive them from the logic level signals on the Arduino.

;{{Done|1x hacked HiTec HS-625MG}}
: A tough servo with the servo bits removed, now just acts as a high quality electric motor with a gearbox. Drive at 5-6v and use conventional PWM / H-Bridge to alter its speed and direction.

;10x 9g servo motors
: Not here yet, but basic servo motors. Use the Servo or modified Servo2 library (the latter for when you need to drive more than a couple of servos at a time from the Arduino)

;{{Done|4x 5V stepper motors with driver boards}}
: Document how to make them work here (Martin?) - there's more info on these exact boards along with example code [http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/SmallSteppers here], yet to be tried but they look identical!

=== Communications ===

;{{Done|10x NRF24L01 Radio Modules}}
: Short range radio modules, use the mIRF library.

;2x Arduino nano ethernet shields
: Stackable modules providing an ethernet jack

=== LEDs and displays ===

;{{Done|High brightness LEDs}}
: 20 each of four different colours (pink, green, blue and orange) 5mm LEDs, remember to use current limiting resistors or a constant current source when driving them!

;{{Done|4x LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
: Dot matrix displays, single colour with drivers

;{{Done|2x Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
: Standard 'calculator style' seven segment displays in a module of eight of them with associated driver circuitry.

;4x LCD 20x4 character displays
: LCD character displays, serial protocol (probably!) to drive them.

=== Everything else ===

;{{Done|2x IR correlation modules}}
: IR beam break sensors with amplifiers to provide a clean signal. Not tested yet!

;10x Playstation style joysticks
: Analogue joysticks with an embedded press button

;Male to male and male to female jumper leads
: A load of long jump leads with pins and sockets (depending on type) to make it easier to interface to modules such as the NRF24L which have otherwise awkward pin layouts and can't be directly connected to a breadboard.

== Requests ==

Put your requests for parts here...

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-19T10:27:23Z

Tomoinn: /* LEDs and displays */

= Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits =

We have a box of bits containing Arduinos for use in the space along with an assortment of sensors, motors, lights and other things you might need to make up a project. It lives in... (to be confirmed, currently it lives in my kitchen, obviously that won't be its final location!)

This page exists to catalogue the contents of the box along with any notes on how to use each modules, including links to Arduino libraries, datasheets, photos showing pinouts and suchlike. Basically if you've figured out how to use a module through extensive googling and experimentation here is where you can share that knowledge with everyone else. Use your signatures to claim credit!

== Policies ==

This is not primarily intended to be used as stock for people's projects, rather it's there to provide a lending library of parts for use at events such as the [[Arduino and Cake]] sessions and [[Family Makers]]. That said, none of the parts are particularly expensive and we try to have a reasonable number of them so if you really need something for a project right now, aren't going to be taking the last one of something and are prepared to provide a replacement in non ludicrous time that's probably fine. If unsure ask on the mailing list! Most things here have been bought from sellers from the far East on eBay, so while they're cheap the lead times are often quite lengthy.

There's a section at the end of this page for requests - if there's something you'd like to have access to and which is of general use (i.e. not for just one project you have in mind) add some details and we'll see whether we can source it at an appropriate price. If something goes wrong and the magic white smoke escapes from something please make a note in the section for the component or module concerned, that way we know it's broken and can either fix or replace it (and tell everyone how to avoid the same thing happening again)

== What's in the Box? ==

Contents of the box, both current and planned. Things that have arrived and are ready for use are marked in {{Done|this colour}}. We need photos and documentation for everything on this list!

{|class="wikitable" style="background-color: #fff"
!colspan="4"|Spotter's Guide
|-
{{Cell|max7219matrix.jpg|Max7219 based dot matrix display}}
{{Cell|max7219segment.jpg|Max7219 based seven segment LED display}}
{{Cell|steppermotor.jpg|5v stepper motor}}
{{Cell|steppermotordriver.jpg|Driver board for 5v stepper motor}}
|-
{{Cell2|nrf24l01.jpg|NRF24L01 radio modules}}
{{Cell2|irbeambreak.jpg|IR beam break detector}}
{{Cell2|dht11.jpg|DHT11 temperature / humidity sensor}}
{{Cell2|barometric.jpg|Barometric pressure sensor}}
|-
{{Cell|deadservo.jpg|Geared 6v motor (ex servo)}}
{{Cell|bagofleds.jpg|Assorted pink, green, orange and blue LEDs}}
{{Cell|mpu6050.jpg|MPU6050 six axis motion sensor}}
{{Cell|arduinonano.jpg|Arduino nano v3}}
|-
{{Cell2|nanoethernet.jpg|Arduino nano ethernet shield}}
|}

=== Arduinos ===

;6x Arduino Nano v3
: Breadboard compatible Arduinos with ATMega328 processors. Note that the 3.3v rail is driven from the FTDI chip (the part that interfaces with USB) so is only available when powered through the USB cable (in other cases use a 3.3v regulator). If supplying external power remember to use the VIn pin and not the 5v one, even if you think you have a regulated power supply.

=== Sensors and Input Devices ===

;{{Done|3x DHT11 temperature and humidity Sensors}}
: These modules break out the three usable pins on the DHT11 sensors

;MPU6050 based 6 axis motion sensor board
: I2C based motion processor, contains a 3 axis gyroscope in conjunction with a 3 axis linear accelerometer and an embedded DSP

;{{Done|1x Barometric pressure sensor board}}
: Not tested yet!

;Ultrasonic rangefinders
: Modules with an ultrasonic emitter / receiver pair and the logic to calculate distance to a reflecting object based on timing.

=== Motors and other Output Devices ===

;12x Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors
: H-Bridge modules, used to interface to high power devices including motors and drive them from the logic level signals on the Arduino.

;{{Done|1x hacked HiTec HS-625MG}}
: A tough servo with the servo bits removed, now just acts as a high quality electric motor with a gearbox. Drive at 5-6v and use conventional PWM / H-Bridge to alter its speed and direction.

;10x 9g servo motors
: Not here yet, but basic servo motors. Use the Servo or modified Servo2 library (the latter for when you need to drive more than a couple of servos at a time from the Arduino)

;{{Done|4x 5V stepper motors with driver boards}}
: Document how to make them work here (Martin?)

=== Communications ===

;{{Done|10x NRF24L01 Radio Modules}}
: Short range radio modules, use the mIRF library.

;2x Arduino nano ethernet shields
: Stackable modules providing an ethernet jack

=== LEDs and displays ===

;{{Done|High brightness LEDs}}
: 20 each of four different colours (pink, green, blue and orange) 5mm LEDs, remember to use current limiting resistors or a constant current source when driving them!

;{{Done|4x LED Dot matrix modules with drivers}}
: Dot matrix displays, single colour with drivers

;{{Done|2x Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers}}
: Standard 'calculator style' seven segment displays in a module of eight of them with associated driver circuitry.

;4x LCD 20x4 character displays
: LCD character displays, serial protocol (probably!) to drive them.

=== Everything else ===

;{{Done|2x IR correlation modules}}
: IR beam break sensors with amplifiers to provide a clean signal. Not tested yet!

;10x Playstation style joysticks
: Analogue joysticks with an embedded press button

;Male to male and male to female jumper leads
: A load of long jump leads with pins and sockets (depending on type) to make it easier to interface to modules such as the NRF24L which have otherwise awkward pin layouts and can't be directly connected to a breadboard.

== Requests ==

Put your requests for parts here...

Arduino and Cake/Big Box

2013-08-19T10:20:56Z

Tomoinn: /* What's in the Box? */

= Big Box of Breakout Boards and Bits =

We have a box of bits containing Arduinos for use in the space along with an assortment of sensors, motors, lights and other things you might need to make up a project. It lives in... (to be confirmed, currently it lives in my kitchen, obviously that won't be its final location!)

This page exists to catalogue the contents of the box along with any notes on how to use each modules, including links to Arduino libraries, datasheets, photos showing pinouts and suchlike. Basically if you've figured out how to use a module through extensive googling and experimentation here is where you can share that knowledge with everyone else. Use your signatures to claim credit!

== Policies ==

This is not primarily intended to be used as stock for people's projects, rather it's there to provide a lending library of parts for use at events such as the [[Arduino and Cake]] sessions and [[Family Makers]]. That said, none of the parts are particularly expensive and we try to have a reasonable number of them so if you really need something for a project right now, aren't going to be taking the last one of something and are prepared to provide a replacement in non ludicrous time that's probably fine. If unsure ask on the mailing list! Most things here have been bought from sellers from the far East on eBay, so while they're cheap the lead times are often quite lengthy.

There's a section at the end of this page for requests - if there's something you'd like to have access to and which is of general use (i.e. not for just one project you have in mind) add some details and we'll see whether we can source it at an appropriate price. If something goes wrong and the magic white smoke escapes from something please make a note in the section for the component or module concerned, that way we know it's broken and can either fix or replace it (and tell everyone how to avoid the same thing happening again)

== What's in the Box? ==

Contents of the box, both current and planned. Things that have arrived and are ready for use are marked in {{Done|this colour}}. We need photos and documentation for everything on this list!

{|class="wikitable" style="background-color: #fff"
!colspan="4"|Spotter's Guide
|-
{{Cell|max7219matrix.jpg|Max7219 based dot matrix display}}
{{Cell|max7219segment.jpg|Max7219 based seven segment LED display}}
{{Cell|steppermotor.jpg|5v stepper motor}}
{{Cell|steppermotordriver.jpg|Driver board for 5v stepper motor}}
|-
{{Cell2|nrf24l01.jpg|NRF24L01 radio modules}}
{{Cell2|irbeambreak.jpg|IR beam break detector}}
{{Cell2|dht11.jpg|DHT11 temperature / humidity sensor}}
{{Cell2|barometric.jpg|Barometric pressure sensor}}
|-
{{Cell|deadservo.jpg|Geared 6v motor (ex servo)}}
{{Cell|bagofleds.jpg|Assorted pink, green, orange and blue LEDs}}
{{Cell|mpu6050.jpg|MPU6050 six axis motion sensor}}
{{Cell|arduinonano.jpg|Arduino nano v3}}
|-
{{Cell2|nanoethernet.jpg|Arduino nano ethernet shield}}
|}

=== Arduinos ===

;6x Arduino Nano v3
: Breadboard compatible Arduinos with ATMega328 processors. Note that the 3.3v rail is driven from the FTDI chip (the part that interfaces with USB) so is only available when powered through the USB cable (in other cases use a 3.3v regulator). If supplying external power remember to use the VIn pin and not the 5v one, even if you think you have a regulated power supply.

=== Sensors and Input Devices ===

;{{Done|3x DHT11 temperature and humidity Sensors}}
: These modules break out the three usable pins on the DHT11 sensors

;MPU6050 based 6 axis motion sensor board
: I2C based motion processor, contains a 3 axis gyroscope in conjunction with a 3 axis linear accelerometer and an embedded DSP

;{{Done|1x Barometric pressure sensor board}}
: Not tested yet!

;Ultrasonic rangefinders
: Modules with an ultrasonic emitter / receiver pair and the logic to calculate distance to a reflecting object based on timing.

=== Motors and other Output Devices ===

;12x Dual H-bridge modules, used to drive regular and stepper motors
: H-Bridge modules, used to interface to high power devices including motors and drive them from the logic level signals on the Arduino.

;{{Done|1x hacked HiTec HS-625MG}}
: A tough servo with the servo bits removed, now just acts as a high quality electric motor with a gearbox. Drive at 5-6v and use conventional PWM / H-Bridge to alter its speed and direction.

;10x 9g servo motors
: Not here yet, but basic servo motors. Use the Servo or modified Servo2 library (the latter for when you need to drive more than a couple of servos at a time from the Arduino)

;{{Done|4x 5V stepper motors with driver boards}}
: Document how to make them work here (Martin?)

=== Communications ===

;{{Done|10x NRF24L01 Radio Modules}}
: Short range radio modules, use the mIRF library.

;2x Arduino nano ethernet shields
: Stackable modules providing an ethernet jack

=== LEDs and displays ===

;{{Done|High brightness LEDs}}
: 20 each of four different colours (pink, green, blue and orange) 5mm LEDs, remember to use current limiting resistors or a constant current source when driving them!

;4x LED Dot matrix modules with drivers
: Dot matrix displays, single colour with drivers

;2x Eight digit seven segment displays with drivers
: Standard 'calculator style' seven segment displays in a module of eight of them with associated driver circuitry.

;4x LCD 20x4 character displays
: LCD character displays, serial protocol (probably!) to drive them.

=== Everything else ===

;{{Done|2x IR correlation modules}}
: IR beam break sensors with amplifiers to provide a clean signal. Not tested yet!

;10x Playstation style joysticks
: Analogue joysticks with an embedded press button

;Male to male and male to female jumper leads
: A load of long jump leads with pins and sockets (depending on type) to make it easier to interface to modules such as the NRF24L which have otherwise awkward pin layouts and can't be directly connected to a breadboard.

== Requests ==

Put your requests for parts here...

Template:Cell2

2013-08-19T10:19:04Z

Tomoinn:

|style="width: 200px; padding: 6px 6px 12px 6px; margin: 0px; background-color:#fed; vertical-align:top"|<div style="width:200px; height:190px; margin-bottom:10px; overflow:hidden; border-style:solid; border-width:0px 0px 1px 0px; border-color:#aaa;">[[File:{{{1}}}|none|200px]]</div>{{{2}}}

Template:Cell

2013-08-19T10:18:48Z

Tomoinn:

|style="width: 200px; padding: 6px 6px 12px 6px; margin: 0px; background-color:#efe; vertical-align:top"|<div style="width:200px; height:190px; margin-bottom:10px; overflow:hidden; border-style:solid; border-width:0px 0px 1px 0px; border-color:#aaa;">[[File:{{{1}}}|none|200px]]</div>{{{2}}}