Makespace - User contributions [en]

Events policy

2023-12-19T10:08:36Z

Ward:

== About this policy ==

Any Makespace member can book the classroom for events, talks, workshops, etc that are related to making. Events must conform to this Events Policy. ''' The first step is to contact management@makespace.org to ensure your proposed event fits in Makespace '''

One you have cleared your event, and have read this policy, ''' then go to the Makespace website page on Hosting an Event at https://web.makespace.org/hosting-an-event ''', complete the google form and risk assessment templates as per instructions there. The password is the same as the Makespace WiFi.

You might want to contact the Makespace administrator or management to be added to Makespace's Meetup group to book the space (as well as for enabling signups, if needed). You should also take note of the [[HostingSpeech|What hosts should tell people at the start of an open meeting]].

= Steps to run an event =

# Be a member
# Follow the rules below
# Check at http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/ that the classroom is free at the desired time, and book your event there so others know it's happening and won't book the space at the same time
# Go to the Makespace website page on Hosting an Event at https://web.makespace.org/hosting-an-event, complete the google form checklist and risk assessment templates as per instructions there. The password is the same as the Makespace WiFi.
# Send copies of the form and risk assessments to to management@makespace.org (or send a link to the completed form)
# Announce your event at Meetup.com

You can use meetup to advertise the event, or just use the Meetup calendar function to book the time. If your event is advertised by another group then just use the calendar (http://www.meetup.com/Makespace/events/); it gets confusing when there are two meetup events for the same meeting, and makes it hard to limit numbers to the maximum capacity.

State clearly which bit of space you are booking: Main room, Classroom, Workshop or Upstairs.

* If you're booking a meetup event, select the correct location (Makespace main room, Makespace classroom, etc).
* If you're just using the calendar, please state the location information in the event name.
* The classroom absolute maximum capacity is 60 seated, or 30 if you want tables; the main room holds around 100 standing. It is a good idea to limit meetup signup slots to reflect that.

Note: you'll need to have organiser role for the Makespace meetup group to be able to edit the calendar. If you're not, either ask on the Google group to be made one, or find someone who is already an organiser.

== General principles, or, how to host an event ==

* '''All members are welcome to organise an event at Makespace, and hosting an event is free of charge to members'''

* '''Booking of rooms is generally handled via the makespace Meetup group.'''

Say whether you are using the: main space; classroom; workshop; or cafe

* If you aren't a member and you want to organise an event in Makespace, you either need to persuade members to host your event (by asking on the google group), or become a [http://makespace.org/membership member] yourself!'''

* We strongly recommend that at least '''two''' members are happy to host an event, as this makes the event more likely to be a success.

* If you have questions on how to host an event, the place to ask them is the makespace [https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!forum/cammakespace mailing list].

=== Notes ===

* '''For any event open to non-members, the usual rules about guests in the space apply.'''

* '''Event organisers/hosts are always responsible for what happens at events.''' In other words, the members organising the event are responsible for the people attending and must be ready to handle emergencies, escort them out in case of fire, and if anything goes wrong (kit is broken or stolen, etc) the member(s) running the event will need to deal with the consequences as they will be held responsible.

''If a member brings in a few guests to show them around, have a meeting, work on a project etc, that's not an event, because it's all people the member knows and is escorting in the space - that's normal Makespace stuff :) ''

'''Children''' attending the space should always be accompanied by a responsible adult; no more than 1 child per adult member or visitor (as it isn't always possible to supervise more than 1 child in a workshop situation).

'''If you are NOT the organiser of an event''' you should NOT let non-members into the space unless the organiser has requested it of you directly.

== If you want to run an event in Makespace and you are NOT a member ==

Only Members can host events, so if you want to run an event you'll need one or more members to be willing to act as hosts. You could ask on our [https://groups.google.com/d/forum/cammakespace Google group] to see if anyone is interested in helping you, but we can't guarantee that anyone will be.

Or, consider becoming a makespace member yourself!

== Event types ==

Events are either:

* Members only
* Open to the public (which may optionally include the opportunity to Meet Makespace, ie have a tour and ask questions about membership)

'''Events listed on Meetup.com/makespace should clearly indicate whether they are Public, Members-only, or Meet-Makespace'''. Not all public events are ones where non-members can come and see the space and ask questions about membership and we need to clearly indicate those!

=== Members only events ===

These events are organised by one or more members.

* because everyone attending is a member, things are fairly straightforward
* event may be anywhere in the space
* if most of any one room in the space will be used and it won't be possible/nice/easy for other members to do stuff in that room whilst the event is happening, then the event should book the room(s) in advance on the calendar.
* the event can be free or subject to a charge (the funds could pay for materials and/or a trainer's time or travel expenses etc, or could be donated to Makespace). If the event has a charge, the member(s) organising it are responsible for collecting the money and making any payments.
* The event can be open to all members or restricted to just some members (for example, only members who have been trained on the 3D printer; only a fixed number of members; only specific members for some other reason).
* '''No event should allow more than 100 people into the space at once.''' It may be useful to count people in on the door so you know when to stop admitting people.

=== Events open to the public ===

These events are organised by one or more members but non-members are able to attend.

* It's useful to run some sort of '''RSVP system''' so you aren't overwhelmed with people turning up unexpectedly. Whether you do or don't get an idea of numbers in advance, if more people turn up than the organisers or space can handle, the organisers MUST close the doors and not permit more people in.

* remember, if you're the sole organiser, you have to be there or your event can't take place! You might want to make sure you can notify attendees if you are ill or unable to attend at the last minute.

* We encourage events to be open to members if at all possible, and that members who happen to be in the space can attend events if possible. However we understand that sometimes this isn't possible, as some events may be restricted to just some members (for example, only members who have been trained on the 3D printer) or other limits may apply (such as a training event where the trainer can only work with up to 8 pre-booked learners, or a meeting is only open to people who have paid to attend, or where preparatory work is required).

* Events may be free or subject to a charge (which may be either formal, eg "£5 per person", or informal, eg "please chip in a couple of quid if you can"). ''It is totally fine and even good to charge non-members more than members.''

'''Numbers of guests'''

Depending on the number of people attending, there are requirements on how many members must be organising and attending the event.

* For up to 10 guests, one member can organise the event '''but we strongly recommend at least two members organise any public event''' because it's really hard to keep an eye on everything when hosting an event; for up to 20 guests, two members; for up to 30 guests, 3 members, etc.

* '''No event should allow more than 100 people into the space at once.''' It may be useful to count people in on the door so you know when to stop admitting people.

* If the space feels overcrowded, immediately close the front door and do not permit more people to come in.

'''Hosting a public event'''

* Non-members attending your event should be encouraged to read the Visitors rules (posted at the internal door of makespace (NB not posted quite yet)) and to sign in the Visitors Book (if we have one) and to sign in on any sign-in sheet (see below).

* Encourage non-members attending your event to take a Makespace card and consider becoming a member :)

* If there are more than 10 non-members present, the organiser should give a brief housekeeping intro at the start of the event, pointing out fire exits, and potentially also other useful info (toilet location, first aid or other safety information that may be needed). See [[HostingSpeech]]

* If your event is one where it's possible to Meet Makespace, please indicate that clearly. You'll need to either offer a tour before or after the main bit of your event (if it's something like a talk or demo), or have Members available to show people around throughout your event (if it's something like Maker Night). '''Note that this is time consuming and you should ensure you have plenty of Members involved in organising the event, so the event can happen as well as tours and questions!'''

'''Doors'''

* Beware - we often have non-members turning up FORTY minutes before an event is due to start! If you are NOT the organiser of an event, and you answer the doorbell, please DO NOT let people in unless the organiser has asked you to do so directly. Otherwise (and this has happened several times) an organiser who is still setting up ends up responsible for a bunch of non-members who have been let in far too early when the space isn't ready for them.

* The exterior front door should not be propped open unless you have a member waiting in the foyer at all times

* For larger events you may want to open the inner front door so that guests can let themselves out. DO NOT DO THIS if the exterior front door is propped open, or anyone could just walk into Makespace!

* there is an access token in the cafe which can be used to give access to the toilets. for big events you might want to relocate the token to the corridor just outside the cafe so anyone returning from the toilets can let themselves in. If you do that when your event ends YOU MUST BRING THE TOKEN BACK IN TO MAKESPACE.

== Big events and regular events and tracking attendance ==

Knowing who attends our events is important for Makespace to demonstrate its reach, which both meets the criteria of our bootstrap grant funding and is likely to unlock future funding opportunities. In particular we have a target to get 500 people each doing 6 hours of Makespace stuff!

So, if your event is 6 hours or longer, '''please ensure you have a sign in sheet where everyone signs in with their full name and signs to confirm they are attending a 6+ hour event'''. Once you have this sheet completed please scan it or email an electronic copy to management@makespace.org, so we can report to our funders.

If your event is less than 6 hours long but forms part of a series, for example, a course of 6 or more 1-hour talks or workshops, where you expect many people to attend the whole series, you will want to have a sign in sheet where it's easy to see how many events each person attended. You could use a matrix where each person signs in once and then ticks or signs for subsequent events. Again, once the course is complete (or you have lots of people who have done 6 hours of stuff) please scan it or email an electronic copy to management@makespace.org, so we can report to our funders.

The target is 6 hours in total of engagement and this can be made up of one 6 hour block, several shorter blocks of time, whatever.

== Publicity for events ==

* Events open to Members only can be advertised on the google group and/or on the Meetup group. It's essential that the event clearly indicates that it's members only.
* Events open to the public can be advertised on the Meetup group

You should only have one calling notice (i.e. Meetup event or similar) for each meeting:

'''If it's a Makespace event''', the calendar entry will happen automatically when you create the event on the Makespace meetup group (you need to be a limited owner of the makespace group to be able to control the more subtle aspects of event registration).

'''If the event is being organised by another group''', theirs should be the meetup group (or Eventbrite, or whatever else they use) publicising the event. The room in Makespace should be reserved by adding a calendar entry directly on the calendar tab of the Makespace events page. When you make the calendar entry, include the following information:
* The event name
* The start and end time
* Your name/contact details
* A link to the meeting's calling notice (if appropriate)

For more details see [[MeetupEvent]]

== Signage ==

If you are using the classroom or main space and you don't want other members wandering through make sure there's a sign outside to say what the event is and apologising for the inconvenience! If you are using the main space it's almost impossible for people not to wander through.

== Space ==

* Whichever room the event is held in should be returned to its usual layout after the event.
* '''Events are strongly preferred to take place in the classroom/meetspace''', especially if there's more than 10 people attending. Obviously some events may need to be in the main space (eg a 3D printer demo) but remember that use of the main space is more likely to inconvenience other members. (the same applies to events which use specific kit!) As a rule only general interest events which are agreed on list should use the whole main space. If in doubt use the classroom.
* Make sure tables and chairs don't block the fire exits or the paths to them. If you are using the main space, ensure other members can still move between the workshop, cakespace etc.
* Organisers are responsible for cleaning up after events and this should be done immediately after the event, not later in the day or the next morning. If you get food supplies in (e.g. pizza delivery to a hackathon) please take the packaging out to the large external recycling bins (outside the back door of the main space, and up the steps to your right) immediately after the event.

'''The classroom''' has a set of folding tables and stacking chairs, and a projector mounted to the ceiling.

'''Optionally we could alter this policy for all events to be in the classroom unless the google group or the directors agreed otherwise.'''

== Food and drink ==

* Makespace doesn't provide catering.
* Organisers can arrange food and drink, or use existing honesty box snacks and tea/coffee facilities.
* Alcohol can only be served at events with the prior permission of the Directors. This applies even if there happens to be beer in the kitchen.

== The Events calendar ==

We generally divide each day into morning/afternoon/evening and book time against these slots but more specific times can be used if that helps. Please try to allow at least 30 minutes between two events to let one clear down and the next set up.

Recurring events can occur:
* every day at the same time
* every week at the same time
* every month at the same time ''defined by day of the week'' (eg 7pm on the second tuesday of each month)

One-off events are also fine of course :)

For now we will use the [http://meetup.makespace.org/events/calendar/#calendar Meetup group] to schedule events. (We also have a Google calendar but that's not currently in use for community run events)

== Contention for space ==

In the first instance it's first come first served!

If you cannot find a good slot for your event, or there is already an event planned for the slot you want, contact the event organiser (this should be easy to do as they should be identified on the meetup.com listing for the event), and see if you can agree between yourselves who should have which slot.

if you cannot find a slot for your event (for instance, you need an evening slot every 2 weeks and they are all full), email the Google group, and we'll discuss what should happen. If the group doesn't quickly reach a decision, the Directors may arbitrate between groups and may make a final decision if needed.

Events are more likely to receive good slots if they:

* are for members OR are training/outreach for potential new makespace community members
* are makespace ish (see image at bottom of [http://makespace.org/index.php/space/principles/ Guiding Principles])
* will pay money to makespace for the event

If contention becomes endemic we will look at ways to manage this but we won't tackle this unless it's a problem.

== If events cause you problems... ==
If an event means you can't use the space or some kit you want to use, or otherwise is a notable inconvenience, or if people attending an event behave in a way which you feel is unsafe or abusive in any way, please let us know on the Google group or by emailing management@makespace so we can figure out if we need to alter this policy or take other action.

Equipment/Glassworking

2021-07-14T13:50:17Z

Ward: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment]] / Glassworking

[[File:8633913103_92f52a697d_c.jpg|thumb|320px|right]]

= Glassworking - General =

== Summary ==

This is a kiln and hot torch to work with soft glass - fusing and forming rather than blowing. You can also use the kiln for metal clays.

<span style="color:red">'''These are Category Red tools: induction is mandatory.'''</span>

== Owners ==

We are in the process of updating owners - if you'd like to get involved please email "glasskiln" at Makespace.

* Andy McDonald

== Booking ==

As and when the wiki is updated to support it, the calendar below will show when the kiln and torch are available for use. If you're trained on glass and need access to edit the calendar, contact the owners.

{{#widget:Google Calendar
|id=usjlc86svfvpqnch5u1ket92v0@group.calendar.google.com
|color=8C500B
|id=sk9fs9tmvt9fh91gl55mvvddhs@group.calendar.google.com
|color=875509
|title=Glassworking Torch and Kiln
}}

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE GLASS KILN AND TORCH IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br>
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners
</div>

To get trained on the glass kiln and torch and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Owners. You can get training just on the kiln, or on kiln+torch. The training will give you the basics to use the kit safely and make basic items, and you'll want to explore more (online, in books, through trial and error or from others) to achieve beautiful things!

If you'd like to arrange training, please see:
* [[Equipment/Glassworking/Training|Glassworking Training]]

== Health and Safety ==

'''[[Formal Risk Assessment: Glassworking]]'''

Glassworking involves both sharp, fragile raw materials and extreme heat. Most risks are obvious - sharp glass can cut you, and the hot torch and kiln can both burn. There are, however, a few non-obvious risks to be aware of:

# When working with the flame your glass will be glowing red hot or hotter, but very shortly after you put a rod down to work with something else the glass will cool to be visually indistinguishable from glass at room temperature. It may at this point still be hundreds of degrees centigrade! Do not pick anything up while someone is working at the torch without asking, you like your skin and want to keep it.
# Glass rods can stress-crack at the tip when heated. Point rods away from you and always wear eye protection - the glass won't travel far but you don't want it in your eyes.
# Some substances release toxic gases when heated to high temperatures
# For glass fusing, use glass that is designed for fusing. Please check the COE and compatibility of your glass.
# Please do not place flammable items near (<12 inches) the kiln. Please do not move the kiln closer to the walls.
# Wear '''dark grey safety glasses''' provided when looking into the kiln. Wear the '''blue safety glasses''' when working with the flame.
# Do not breathe in fine powders. Wear a dusk mask when mixing shelf primer, reapplying kiln shelf etc.
# Wear eye protection when cutting glass. Please clean surfaces afterwards with a damp paper towel. The tiny glass shards you get when you cut glass may be invisible to the eye but can be dangerous if it gets in your eyes.

Other risks will be covered during training - working with hot glass is perfectly safe as long as basic procedures are followed.

== Equipment ==

Our kiln is a Paragon SC2 kiln with an included bead door and window. This kiln includes a controller capable of multi-step programs with controlled rate heat up and cool down cycles. It has a maximum temperature of 1100 degrees centigrade, enough to fire some metal clays and work with most kinds of glass, but not enough to act as a metal furnace. There's an instruction booklet to use both in the box below the table.

In addition to the kiln we have a HotHead gas torch, along with the appropriate connection kit to run off bulk Propane gas rather than the normal MAPP cylinders (these burn slightly hotter, but are much more expensive as they're not available in larger quantities). The torch is mounted on a height and angle adjustable stand suitable for bead work when sitting on the low stool that should be lurking around the glassworking station.

For bead working we have a variety of mandrels, bead release that can be cooked in the flame and a wedge shaped graphite marver. Also a pot of vermiculite to slowly cool your beads so they won't break.

For art glass and strip-work we have a set of cutting tools along with a slump mould for making very small (9x9cm) glass bowls. Plus Bullseye GlasTac for sticking your pieces of glass together before you put them into the kiln. Please use only glue that is safe to heat to high temperatures - superglue, for example, should NOT be used as it releases cyanide gas (yikes!) when heated to high temperatures

It is important that these tools remain exclusively used for glass, please resist the temptation to use the cutters, pliers etc for other materials!

== Glass Stock ==

We have a selection of glass rod, sheet, stringer and frit.

The large pots of glass are bought as a random selection for about ten pounds per pot, they consist of offcuts of bullseye COE90 (coefficient of expansion, only important in as much as all glass in a particular piece should have the same number to prevent explosions!) in various thicknesses. Bullseye COE90 glass will tend to form 6mm thick sheets due to surface tension so stack your strip-work to that height.

In addition to this we have a small amount of specific colours of bullseye COE90 glass currently in clear 9x9cm sheets and larger plates of Makespace colours. We can buy at a discount from a couple of online suppliers even when ordering small quantities (a side effect of buying all the kiln and other hardware in one go!) so post to the list of you want anything in particular and we can order it.

For bead making we have a set of clear and a set of mixed coloured COE90 rods, along with tubes of frit and a selection of random stringer (1mm thick rod) glass for decoration. Prices for these are TBD, but will be printed on a sheet near the glassworking station when determined (something in the order of a pound per full rod, that would work out as around 20-40p per medium size bead, each of which would take about half an hour to make).

== Location ==

The glassworking kit is in the corner of the main workshop on the right as you come through the double doors. Work facing out into the main space when using the torch and try to keep your activities over the steel sheeting (not that we're likely to harm the concrete floor but it's easier to clean up!)

== Scheduling ==

Unlike many pieces of equipment in Makespace the kiln requires a considerable amount of uninterrupted time to run. We don't have a formal booking system in place, but we use a shared calendar to block out big jobs on the kiln especially. For example, if you're doing bead work you will be spending between half an hour and two hours (depending on how many you're making) using the hot torch, with beads being placed in the kiln at a holding temperature while the others are worked in the flame, then running an annealing cycle which will cool down under computer control for a couple of hours, then cooling to ambient before the kiln becomes available for other users. It should be possible to get two runs in a day, as long as the first is done in the morning, but no more than that.

The kiln is a model which should be possible to leave unattended once you have set the digital controller to run a specific program. Before firing make sure you sign post that the kiln is hot, that there is nothing flammable near the kiln and that there is about 12 inches gap between the kiln and the walls. Please check the firing schedule - don't assume it is set to any previous settings. If you are doing anything new/are unfamiliar with the kiln, please ensure that you can be in the space for the duration of its active firing cycle - it's fine to leave once the heating elements are off and the kiln is cooling to ambient but please hang around while it's actually firing. If firing overnight please come in the next day to turn the kiln off.

= How tos =

'''Do not use the equipment if you have not been inducted!'''
'''If in doubt, consult the Kiln manual(s), and/or speak to one of the owners (or other trained users)!'''

== How to make glass beads ==

=== Preparation ===

Smell if there's any gas around (leak from the gas bottle)... If not:
# Fire up kiln
#* Turn on at the manual switch; wait for "IdLE" to appear. If it says "CpLt" press Start once.
#* Use Programme 1
#** press Review; if it shows #1, then simply press Start twice
#** if it shows some other number, consult the manual how to start Programme 1! [to be expanded]
#*** From IdLE press START (the left button) Use the Up Arrow (not the Down Arrow) to select a firing program - in this case Program 1 for annealing glass beads. Press start until the kiln starts displaying the temperature of the kiln. The clicking noise is normal.
# Get bead release to correct consistency
#* The bead release dries out over time. If it is too thick and lumpy you need to add water to it.<br />Screw on the lid and shake the bead release well to get rid of all the lumps. It should be the consistency of a thick smoothie.
# Get everything (mandrels, tools, water bucket, glass) ready and laid out, so you don't have to bend over the hot flame to fetch it later

The final firing temperature is ~530 degrees; the kiln heats up pretty quickly, so you should be able to start working on the glass bead already.

=== Flameworking ===

For each bead:

# Coat the mandrel
#* tilt the bottle before you dip
#* dip only once, turn the mandrel while it is still in the bottle without touching the sides of the bottle
#* pull out the mandrel without touching the sides of the bottle
# Turn on flame
#* the two 'outer' valves open counter-clockwise, but the 'middle' valve opens ''clockwise''.
#* don't put the lighter directly in front of the nozzle, but slightly below/to the side
#* adjust gas flow so it doesn't sputter but doesn't have a loud "windy" noise either
# Sit on the small stool, resting your elbows on your legs; rest the mandrel on your little finger, and use thumb and index finger to rotate it
# Dry bead release & heat mandrel in flame
# Heat tip of glass rod evenly
#* the hottest part of the flame is just at the tip of the bright blue (inner) cone
#* beware of splinters (thermoshock) -- point rod away from you and other people!
#* if applicable, straighten rod out again before putting away (so the direction of thermoshock is predictable)
# Gently add molten glass onto mandrel - it is easiest to keep your glass rod still and rotate your mandrel away from you, rather than keeping your mandrel still and trying to roll glass onto the mandrel
#* the glass rod should be in the hottest part of the flame, the mandrel slightly further away
#* do not apply any significant force -- this will pull off the bead release
#* do not let the glass touch the mandrels directly (where there isn't any bead release)!
#* create overhang to prevent pointy bits around the hole of the bead
# Things you can do with the bead:
#* add little splinters of glass (put on metal table, scoop back into tube afterwards)
#* use the thin glass rods to draw lines and shapes
#* use a thin mandrel to marble/'paint' (e.g. spirals) between glasses of different color
#** if glass remains stuck to the mandrel, get it red hot and dip into the water bucket; repeat as necessary
#* e.g. silver foil to change color of glass [to be expanded]
# When done, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red; turn off the flame and insert mandrel into kiln
#* make sure ''not'' to touch the walls, and especially not the thermocouple at the back wall!

Repeat as needed for as many mandrels as fit into the kiln.

=== Wrapping up ===

When all the beads are in the kiln:

# Press the Skip Segment button, and then Start
# Stick around till the cooling process has finished, and the kiln returns to "IDLE" (should occur at around 370 degrees Celsius, after around 45 minutes)
# Turn off kiln, and add note saying it's still hot (which it is!)
# Leave mandrels in for another few hours (the next morning if you worked in the evening) so they can cool down to room temperature
# Don't forget to pick up your beads later to make space for other people!

=== Alternative method: Vermiculite ===

If the kiln is in use for fusing, an alternative method of cooling your beads slowly is to place them into the pot of vermiculite as opposed to the heated kiln. The vermiculite traps air around the bead, stopping it from cooling too quickly. Although for small beads this is usually sufficient to prevent the bead from cracking, to be on the safe side, you will need to anneal your bead in the kiln afterwards. (Shops will generally require you to anneal all your beads before you sell them)

# When done working with the bead in the flame, move bead to colder part of flame till it's no longer glowing red
# Turn off the flame, use the marver to push aside the vermiculite a little and plant your bead into the vermiculite.
# Leave it in there until it cools to room temp (how long this takes depends on how big your bead is, but overnight is probably the safest).

TODO - section on how to batch anneal beads in the kiln after cooling in vermiculite

=== Finishing ===

Tips & tricks for how to get beads off mandrel and what to do with them then:

* Take the forceps from the toolbox to grip the mandrel (not the glass bead), and grip the bead with your other hand and rotate
** take care not to bend the mandrel! this is particularly relevant when using the thin mandrels
* Wash the beads to get the bead release off the inside
** there are [these things with teeth on] to scratch off the bead release
** using a shoestring might work, too (for big holes)

Here are some links you may find useful if you want to make your own
glass beads:

http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-articles.html

http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Glass-Beads-from-Scratch

== How to fuse glass together ==

Please check out http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/free-videos.html, in particular What is Kiln-glass?, How to Choose a Glass for Kilnforming (especially parts 1-4 and Material Matters: Release Qualities), Glass Cutting, Fusing basics, Preparing Kiln Shelves.

== Other uses of the Kiln ==

The kiln can also be used to fire metal clay or for enamelling. We do not have much experience with this. If you would like to try something, please check out safety requirements and send the proposal to Makespace admin and the glass owners for approval.

== Other uses of the Torch ==

* Annealing metal
* Pulling stringer

Equipment/Warco lathe

2021-07-14T13:00:56Z

Ward: /* Training */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe

[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]

= Summary =

Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.

= Using the lathe =

The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to 32 cm in diameter and about 65 cm long. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials.
Some examples of what we have made:

Some of our accessories are listed at
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]

= Health and Safety =

The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.

Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.

The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.

Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].

= Owners =

The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.

So far the owners are;
* Alaric Worrod
* Roger Smith

= Training =

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br>
</div>

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

https://sites.google.com/makespace.org/equipment/

or contact Training@makespace.org

= Instructions =

We have a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.

= Maintenance =

The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.

There are a number of oiling points that need periodic application of oil with the supplied pot.

The drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.

= Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1 =
Safety.
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.
It is you that makes the difference.

Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.
Getting to know your lathe
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]

Setting up your lathe
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.

Checking the lathe.
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass.
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.

Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.

Preparing the job
The 3 Jaw Chuck
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy.

Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.

One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck
Now place your job in the lathe.
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height

Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square.
Get a good end to start from.
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.

Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning.
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.

Starting your lathe
The guard must be closed to start system.
Starting on right-hand handle.
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal.

Emergency Stop Foot Pedal
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.

Cutting tools
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand.
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore.
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture

Quick Change Tool
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again.
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here.
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2
Cutting Notes
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder.
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course.
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.

Dead Stop
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is.
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.

Lubrication
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.
Cross cut (end or face cutting)

Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed.
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.
Long cut (turning)
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.

Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.
Tail Stock
Centring tool
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear.
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room.

The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.
Power feed.
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut
• Check you have set the correct direction
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.

Evaluation
Demonstrate that you understand the following:
• All matters safety related
• How to start up the lathe
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job
Shutdown at end of work.
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.
Cleaning: leave it clean!
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied.
For clearing up gloves are mandatory.
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin.
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door

Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31

<gallery>
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg
</gallery>

= Health and Safety =

The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.

Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.

The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.

Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].

= Training =

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br>
</div>

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]

= Instructions =

* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]

* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]

= Peripheral tools and accessories =

Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:

== Tools Available ==

There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.

{| class="wikitable"
! Tool
! Description
! Steel Insert
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert
|-
| SSSCR1/2"-3
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| SSBCR1/2"-3
|
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| SWGCR1/2"-3
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert
| WCGX
| WCRX
|-
| SWUCR3/8"J3
|
|
| WNMG 060404
|-
| SER1/2"-11
| External threading tool
|
|
|-
| S1/2J-SIR11
| Internal threading tool
|
|
|-
| MGEHR1/2"-02
| Cut off tool
| MGMN
| MGGN
|-
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3
|
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3
|
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| SCLCR1212F09
| Right?
| CCMT 09T3
| CCGT 09T3
|-
| SCLCL1212F09
| Left?
| CCMT 09T3
| CCGT 09T3
|-
| SRDCN 1616h 08
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)
| RCMT 0803
| RCGT 0803
|-
| n/a
| Knurling tool
| n/a
| n/a
|-
| n/a
| HSS Cut off tool
| n/a
| n/a
|}

More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system

= Some recommended videos =

Abom79 has made many good videos including this one about workshop etiquette https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugIu1QzfZ5c

Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs

This Old Tony is also good; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__A2xtLF0AU

AVE doesn't have many lathe work videos, but has some good tips on workshop practice. https://www.youtube.com/user/arduinoversusevil/videos

Reversed cut-off tool trick.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM

Equipment/Warco lathe

2021-07-14T12:59:58Z

Ward: /* Instructions */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe

[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]

= Summary =

Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.

= Using the lathe =

The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to 32 cm in diameter and about 65 cm long. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials.
Some examples of what we have made:

Some of our accessories are listed at
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]

= Health and Safety =

The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.

Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.

The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.

Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].

= Owners =

The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.

So far the owners are;
* Alaric Worrod
* Roger Smith

= Training =

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br>
</div>

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

* [[Equipment/WarcoLathe/Training|Lathe Training]]

= Instructions =

We have a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.

= Maintenance =

The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.

There are a number of oiling points that need periodic application of oil with the supplied pot.

The drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.

= Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1 =
Safety.
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.
It is you that makes the difference.

Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.
Getting to know your lathe
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]

Setting up your lathe
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.

Checking the lathe.
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass.
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.

Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.

Preparing the job
The 3 Jaw Chuck
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy.

Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.

One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck
Now place your job in the lathe.
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height

Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square.
Get a good end to start from.
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.

Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning.
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.

Starting your lathe
The guard must be closed to start system.
Starting on right-hand handle.
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal.

Emergency Stop Foot Pedal
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.

Cutting tools
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand.
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore.
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture

Quick Change Tool
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again.
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here.
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2
Cutting Notes
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder.
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course.
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.

Dead Stop
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is.
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.

Lubrication
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.
Cross cut (end or face cutting)

Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed.
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.
Long cut (turning)
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.

Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.
Tail Stock
Centring tool
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear.
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room.

The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.
Power feed.
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut
• Check you have set the correct direction
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.

Evaluation
Demonstrate that you understand the following:
• All matters safety related
• How to start up the lathe
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job
Shutdown at end of work.
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.
Cleaning: leave it clean!
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied.
For clearing up gloves are mandatory.
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin.
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door

Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31

<gallery>
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg
</gallery>

= Health and Safety =

The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.

Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.

The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.

Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].

= Training =

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br>
</div>

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]

= Instructions =

* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]

* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]

= Peripheral tools and accessories =

Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:

== Tools Available ==

There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.

{| class="wikitable"
! Tool
! Description
! Steel Insert
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert
|-
| SSSCR1/2"-3
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| SSBCR1/2"-3
|
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| SWGCR1/2"-3
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert
| WCGX
| WCRX
|-
| SWUCR3/8"J3
|
|
| WNMG 060404
|-
| SER1/2"-11
| External threading tool
|
|
|-
| S1/2J-SIR11
| Internal threading tool
|
|
|-
| MGEHR1/2"-02
| Cut off tool
| MGMN
| MGGN
|-
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3
|
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3
|
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| SCLCR1212F09
| Right?
| CCMT 09T3
| CCGT 09T3
|-
| SCLCL1212F09
| Left?
| CCMT 09T3
| CCGT 09T3
|-
| SRDCN 1616h 08
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)
| RCMT 0803
| RCGT 0803
|-
| n/a
| Knurling tool
| n/a
| n/a
|-
| n/a
| HSS Cut off tool
| n/a
| n/a
|}

More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system

= Some recommended videos =

Abom79 has made many good videos including this one about workshop etiquette https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugIu1QzfZ5c

Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs

This Old Tony is also good; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__A2xtLF0AU

AVE doesn't have many lathe work videos, but has some good tips on workshop practice. https://www.youtube.com/user/arduinoversusevil/videos

Reversed cut-off tool trick.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM

Equipment/Warco lathe

2021-07-14T12:59:37Z

Ward: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe

[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]

= Summary =

Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.

= Using the lathe =

The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to 32 cm in diameter and about 65 cm long. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials.
Some examples of what we have made:

Some of our accessories are listed at
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]

= Health and Safety =

The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.

Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.

The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.

Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].

= Owners =

The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.

So far the owners are;
* Alaric Worrod
* Roger Smith

= Training =

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br>
</div>

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

* [[Equipment/WarcoLathe/Training|Lathe Training]]

= Instructions =

We a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.

= Maintenance =

The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.

There are a number of oiling points that need periodic application of oil with the supplied pot.

The drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.

= Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1 =
Safety.
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.
It is you that makes the difference.

Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.
Getting to know your lathe
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]

Setting up your lathe
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.

Checking the lathe.
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass.
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.

Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.

Preparing the job
The 3 Jaw Chuck
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy.

Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.

One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck
Now place your job in the lathe.
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height

Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square.
Get a good end to start from.
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.

Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning.
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.

Starting your lathe
The guard must be closed to start system.
Starting on right-hand handle.
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal.

Emergency Stop Foot Pedal
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.

Cutting tools
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand.
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore.
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture

Quick Change Tool
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again.
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here.
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2
Cutting Notes
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder.
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course.
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.

Dead Stop
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is.
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.

Lubrication
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.
Cross cut (end or face cutting)

Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed.
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.
Long cut (turning)
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.

Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.
Tail Stock
Centring tool
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear.
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room.

The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.
Power feed.
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut
• Check you have set the correct direction
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.

Evaluation
Demonstrate that you understand the following:
• All matters safety related
• How to start up the lathe
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job
Shutdown at end of work.
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.
Cleaning: leave it clean!
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied.
For clearing up gloves are mandatory.
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin.
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door

Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31

<gallery>
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg
</gallery>

= Health and Safety =

The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.

Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.

The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.

Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.

To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.

The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].

= Training =

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br>
</div>

To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.

The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at

* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]

= Instructions =

* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]

* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]

= Peripheral tools and accessories =

Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:

== Tools Available ==

There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.

{| class="wikitable"
! Tool
! Description
! Steel Insert
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert
|-
| SSSCR1/2"-3
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| SSBCR1/2"-3
|
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| SWGCR1/2"-3
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert
| WCGX
| WCRX
|-
| SWUCR3/8"J3
|
|
| WNMG 060404
|-
| SER1/2"-11
| External threading tool
|
|
|-
| S1/2J-SIR11
| Internal threading tool
|
|
|-
| MGEHR1/2"-02
| Cut off tool
| MGMN
| MGGN
|-
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3
|
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3
|
| SCMT 09T3
| SCGT 09T3
|-
| SCLCR1212F09
| Right?
| CCMT 09T3
| CCGT 09T3
|-
| SCLCL1212F09
| Left?
| CCMT 09T3
| CCGT 09T3
|-
| SRDCN 1616h 08
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)
| RCMT 0803
| RCGT 0803
|-
| n/a
| Knurling tool
| n/a
| n/a
|-
| n/a
| HSS Cut off tool
| n/a
| n/a
|}

More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system

= Some recommended videos =

Abom79 has made many good videos including this one about workshop etiquette https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugIu1QzfZ5c

Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs

This Old Tony is also good; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__A2xtLF0AU

AVE doesn't have many lathe work videos, but has some good tips on workshop practice. https://www.youtube.com/user/arduinoversusevil/videos

Reversed cut-off tool trick.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM

Equipment/CNC Model Mill

2021-07-14T12:38:01Z

Ward: /* Owners */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / CNC Model Mill

A model mill for 3D subtractive prototyping, mould making, 3D scanning and PCB milling.

[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|thumb|460px|right|Our Roland MDX-40A Model Mill]]

= Summary =

The MDX-40A is a full-featured CNC (computer numerical control) mill capable of cutting jeweler's wax, resins, chemical wood, acrylic and wood. It is ideal for quickly and easily creating high-quality prototypes, parts, models, and moulds for resin casting.

http://www.rolanddga.com/products/milling/mdx40/

* Capacity: 305 x 305 x 105mm
* Rate (X,Y): 50mm/sec
* Rate (Z): 30mm/sec
* Spindle Speed: 4500 to 15000rpm
* Resolution: 0.01mm
* Materials: Plastics (ABS, Delrin/Acetal, Nylon, Acrylic), tooling board, wood, and modeling wax, PCBs
* Includes scanning head

Here are some examples we've made on the Model Mill (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:Model_Mill_Job_1.jpg
File:ModelMill_Gallery_1.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130407.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130407_2.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130406_1.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130323_1.jpg
File:KnGI5X2.jpg
</gallery>

Michal Zalewski's [http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/ Guerrilla guide to CNC machining, mold making, and resin casting] has many tips on using a similar CNC mill and ideas for projects, with a particular focus on resin casting.

= Using the Mill=

== Maintainers ==

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the Model Mill, please visit the equipment page: https://sites.google.com/makespace.org/equipment/cnc-model-mill or
contact maintainers@Makespace.org

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>You must must pass Makespace training to use this equipment.
</b><br>

</div>
Follow this link to find training https://classroom.google.com/u/1/c/MTIxMzI2MTc5ODY0

== Health and Safety ==

The Model Mill is unlikely to hurt you, but you can easily hurt it without training so it must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the CNC Router are:
* '''ONLY USE THE MILL IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE MILL RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''SHARP OBJECTS''' - The cutters used by the machine can be very sharp. Care should be taken when handling the cutters or working near the cutters such as when cleaning after use.

'''DUST''' - Ensure the machine is cleaned thoroughly after use.

'''Never use a pneumatic blower'''
This machine is not compatible with a pneumatic blower. Cutting waste may get inside the machine and cause fire or electrical shock.

== Instructions ==

[http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MDX-40A_USE_EN_R1.pdf Product Manual]

===Coordinate Systems===

The main window in VPanel displays the present location of the tool as numerical values. Using these lets you perform manual feed accurately, which can be very convenient in tasks such as aligning the workpiece.

The numerical values that indicate the location of the tool are called "coordinates," and the starting point for the coordinates is called the "origin." The following figure shows a location that is shifted from the origin by 50 millimetres along the X-axis, 30 millimetres along the Y-axis, and 20 millimetres along the Z-axis. This X-axis distance is called the "X-axis coordinate" (or sometimes just the "X coordinate"), and the Y- and Z-axis distances are similarly called the "Y-axis coordinate" and the "Z-axis coordinate."

The distances from the origin for the respective axes to the tool are therefore the corresponding coordinate values.

[[Image:Mill_Coords.PNG]]

It is possible to select the coordinate system that is used to display the tool location in VPanel. ''The selection made here only determines the method used to display coordinates''.

With the actual origin point, you need to perform the setting individually for the coordinate system that is used with the cutting data. It is a good idea to leave the selection at "User Coordinate System" as this is the system used by most programs.

* '''User Coordinate System''': This is a coordinate system in which the location of the origin point can be freely changed.
* '''Machine Coordinate System''': This is a machine-specific coordinate system in which the location of the origin point is fixed and cannot be changed.

===Pausing/Resuming/Quitting of Cutting===
This operation pauses cutting. You perform it using the built-in panel. This also makes it possible to resume cutting at the paused position after an operation such as moving the tool to check the status of the workpiece.

'''Press the VIEW button during cutting.'''
Rotation of the spindle stops, and the tool moves to the VIEW position. While movement of the tool and table is in progress, the VIEW lamp flashes, and after the movement is completed, the lamp lights up.

It is possible to open the front cover while the machine is paused. Before opening the front cover, make sure that the cutting operation stopped completely and that the VIEW lamp is lit.

'''Press and hold the VIEW button.'''
The tool returns to the position where operation was paused, and cutting resumes. After the tool starts moving, the VIEW lamp flashes until cutting is resumed. When cutting is resumed, the VIEW lamp goes dark.

If you open the front cover while the operation is paused, close the front cover, then perform the operation to resume.

===Tool Selection===

Select a tool matched to the purpose. It's a good idea to use the tools selectively, according to the work process (such as rough cutting or finish cutting) and the design.

Cutters is an all-inclusive term used to describe the rotating cutting tools used. Cutters can be manufactured from high speed steel or carbide and are available in a variety of configurations for specific applications.

* '''End mill'''
** Straight end mill: The end cutting edge is flat-shaped. It is suitable for fashioning a flat surface or steps.
** Ball end mill: The end cutting edge is ball-shaped. It is suitable for fashioning a curved surface or waveform.
* '''Engraving cutter'''
** Character cutter: This tool is suitable for engraving in general with broad versatility. It is appropriate for character engraving on the plate.
** Parallel cutter: This cutter is suitable for engraving wide surfaces. This cutter enables engraving large characters and surface leveling (to flatten the surface of the material) of the table where the material is placed. Because both sides have a cutting blade, it is not possible to make a deep cut in the Z-axis direction.

===Recovery of Operation from Emergency Stop or Emergency Shutdown===
If an emergency stop or an emergency shutdown occurs during cutting, remove the tool and the
workpiece from the machine. When the operation resumes, initialization is performed on the machine.

At this time, the tool and the workpiece may collide depending on the position in which the tool and workpiece stopped, which can cause damage to the machine while restarting.

===Overrides===
'''Using Overrides'''
An override is a feature for adjusting the feed rate or spindle speed while cutting is in progress. This is useful when you want to change the feed rate or speed as you monitor the status of cutting. An override value is specified as a percentage. For example, when the command in the cutting data sent from the computer is for a speed of 5,000 rpm, specifying an override of 150% produces an actual speed of 7,500 rpm.

'''Cutting Speed Override'''
This works on the tool movement speed of when the workpiece is being cut. The speed specified by the command in the cutting data is taken to be 100%.

'''Spindle Speed Override'''
This works on the rotation speed of the spindle. The speed specified by the command in the cutting data is taken to be 100%. This is also effective when rotating the spindle during manual operations.

===Setting the Z Origin Using the Z0 Sensor===
''A tool that has an extremely narrow tip may break when it touches the tool sensor depending on which tool is to be used.''

1. Set the workpiece on the table, and place the Z0 sensor at the place where you want to set the Z origin on the workpiece. Face the surface of the Z0 sensor with no screw hole facing upward.

[[image:Mill_z0.PNG]]

2. Use the VPanel feed button and move the tool to the position above the sensor.

3. Close the front cover.

4. Select "Set "Z Origin using sensor" and click Detect. The tool slowly descend until it contacts the sensor. When the tool rises and stops, the setting operation is complete.

Note: It is important the tool is electrically conductive from tip to shaft, and the sensor is clean. Failure to check will cause damage to the tool and sensor.

5. Remove the sensor from the workpiece to a location where it will not interfere with future cutting operations.

==Software==

===[[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill/VPanel|VPanel]]===
[[Image:V_Panel_e.jpg]]

VPanel is a program to operate the modelling machine on the computer screen. It has functions to output cutting data, perform maintenance, and make various corrections. In addition, it displays error messages of the modelling machine.

===ClickMill===
[[Image:ClickMILL_e.jpg]]

ClickMILL is a program that lets you perform simple milling operations without a model (3D shape data). It allows you to perform drilling, chamfering and surface levelling and to cut flat panels to size in rectangular or circular shapes.

===SRP Player===
[[Image:Srp p.jpg]]

SRP Player imports a model (3D data in IGES, DXF [3D], and STL) and cuts a workpiece to transform it into the actual shape. It calculates the path of the blade that performs the cutting, and operates a cutting machine accordingly. The path of the blade is called the "tool path".

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnOkGfqXGjY Sample Part Cutting 1 (video)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEVCNFpSkPo Sample Part Cutting 2 (video)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtLUlEqu5Dk Surfacing and Drilling (Video)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRGFwBT3dm8 Basic Introduction to SRP Player (Video)]

Note: We do not have the Rotary axis or the tool changer show in some of these videos.

===Cut2D===
[[Image:Cut2d.jpg|180px]]

[http://www.vectric.com/products/cut2d.html Manufacture's site for Cut2D]

Cut2D is easy to use. The software automatically compensates for the cutter diameter and geometry when calculating toolpaths, so you simply select the shapes to machine and Cut2D takes care of the rest.

Cut2D opens CAD drawings and vector designs from most drawing packages and includes filters for the following industry standard file formats: DXF, DWG, EPS, AI & PDF files

Very simple projects can also be drawn directly in Cut2D.

Multiple designs can be imported and combined.

Cut2D allows the you to preview the calculated tool paths in a 3D window to see exactly what the machined part will look like.

[https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/cut2d-desktop?playlist=TutorialCategories&category=all Cut2D Tutorials] These tutorials are very good and are your best resource for learning how to use this software.

===CopperCAM===
[[Image:CopperCAM.jpg|180px]]

[http://www.celeritous.com/estore/CopperCAM Manufacture's site for CopperCAM]

An essential part of producing milled printed circuit boards is the ability to convert the Gerber photoplot files produced by most PCB layout tools to a format readable by CNC mill software to either isolate traces and pads or to "rub out" all copper on a board except traces and pads. You also need a tool to convert the common Excellon drill files to CNC language to drill the through holes and vias in the circuit board.

CopperCAM is a program for engraving and isolation routing. It only provides the Gerber and drill file conversion and does not provide any machine control. The exported files should be loaded and run via the vPanel software for download to the mill.

== Tips & Tricks ==
===Conventional milling versus climb milling===

A milling cutter can cut in two directions, sometimes known as conventional or up and climb or down.

[[File:Climb_Conv1.JPG]]

'''Conventional milling (left):''' The chip thickness starts at zero thickness, and increases up to the maximum. The cut is so light at the beginning that the tool does not cut, but slides across the surface of the material, until sufficient pressure is built up and the tooth suddenly bites and begins to cut. In metals this deforms the material (at point A on the diagram, left), work hardening it, dulling the tool and leaves a poor finish on the material.

'''Climb milling (right):''' Each tooth engages the material at a definite point, and the width of the cut starts at the maximum and decreases to zero. The chips are disposed behind the cutter, leading to easier swarf removal. The tooth does not rub on the material, and so tool life may be longer. However, climb milling can apply larger loads to the machine, and so is not recommended for older milling machines, or machines which are not in good condition.

While climb cutting is the most prevalent method in metalworking and conventional cutting is the dominant method in woodworking, plastics routing is somewhere in between the two. There are usually significant differences between the finish on a climb cut part and a conventional cut part, and the degree of difference varies by plastic and cutter geometry. The only rule of thumb that can be offered is that most soft plastics (HDPE, UHMW, polypropylene, etc.) respond best to conventional cutting, while some harder materials (acrylic, polycarbonate, nylon) occasionally respond better to climb cutting.

The other factors when considering climb or conventional cutting are the aggressiveness of the cutter and part hold down. Climb cutting is a much more aggressive means of cutting and can chatter or move small parts that are not fixtured well. In most cases, soft chips that are difficult to extract from the cut are also more likely to weld to the climb-cut side rather than the conventional cut side. The best method of approach for most new materials is to run sample parts with both methods of cutting at the same feeds and speeds and make the determination from there.

===Milling Wood===

When milling wood, always set the path to raster and position your piece so that the tool is passing with the grain. If you use other settings then swarf builds up and can easily jam the tool. If you are cutting large areas of wood then you will need to be alert to the machine jamming due to build up of swarf, so don't go far. The machine does not work terribly well as a thicknesser, so consider using the bandsaw (although it doesn't like lime very much) or the CNC router. Clean the machine once you can see it getting really dusty, not at the end of the job, or it will take hours! Manually remove big chippings or Henry will choke on them.

=== Making PCBs ===

The Model Mill should not be used to machine metal. It isn't strong enough, and the HSS cutter provided by Makespace will be damaged by metal and fibreglass (e.g. FR4 PCBs) very quickly.
However, if you are considered by the Owners to be an experienced and careful Mill User, then it is possible to make basic PCBs providing you use your own mill bed and cutters. For more information see the helpful guide here: [[PCB_milling]]

=== Making your own Base Plate ===

If you want to use screws to secure workpieces, or mounting holes etc you should make your own base to replace the public base installed in the mill. You can make a base plate easily using the large CNC Router. If you do not have access to that equipment, ask around for help, its a quick job.
The base can be made from thick MDF or plywood. An example design file in SVG format is here: [[Media:model_mill_base.svg.zip]]

=Stock Tools=

Rough notes - siw

Cutter * Shaft * cutter Length * total length * type * material

* 3*3*3*75*ball*carbid Europa Tool Co.Ltd.
* 3*6*10*35*square*hss MR Tool
* 5*6*15*45*square*hss MR Tool
* 2*6*5*29*square*hss MR Tool
* 1*6*3*25*square*hss MR Tool
* 6*6*30*75*ball*carbid europa tool co ltd
* 6*6*20*45*square*hss MR Tool
* 4*6*12.5*40*square*hss MR Tool

* engraving tip 3.3*10mm sholder shaft 6mm total tool length 75, tip 0.2, 30deg carbid
* engraving tip 6*10mm sholder shat 6mm total tool length 45, tip 0.2, 30deg HSS

* engraving tip 1/4" 0.1 30deg 32 total

drills
* 1/4" 0.8mm * 8mm 38mm total
* 1/4" 0.9mm * 8mm 38mm total

Collets

* 1/8"
* 1/4"
* 6mm * 2
* 4mm
* 3mm
* 5mm

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the Model Mill is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Model Mill Users''')
* Clean the mill with a 1" paint brush, remove as much dust from the spindle area as possible before vacuuming.
* Hover all the inside of the mill, and under it. '''Do not blow the dust, it goes everywhere!'''
* Clean any debris off bed and surround using soft brush

The machine should look like this after use!

<gallery>
File:WP_20130417_005.jpg
File:WP_20130417_004.jpg
File:WP_20130417_002.jpg
</gallery>

Basic Maintenance (done by Model Mill Maintainers)
* The spindle unit and the belt are parts that wear out. The replacement cycle varies according to usage conditions, but as a general guide, you should replace them after every 2,000 hours of use. You can use VPanel to view the total working time of the spindle.

== Maintenance Log ==

Installed on 21st March 2013.

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

= Further Information =

== Installation ==

== Purchase ==
* MP-ROTO-MDX40AE (mill - £4,695)
* RL-ROTO-TS30SCAN (scanner head - £295)
* Selection of tooling (???)
* Sample selection of materials (???)

== Repairs ==

Expected on-going maintenance costs are expected to be very low if maintained correctly. Two areas that will need watching for repair are:

* Spindle drive belt expected life 1000's of Hours (Supplier holds in stock) ~£10
* Spindle assembly (bearings fail) 10000 Hours MTBF (Supplier holds in stock) £195. It is suggest that when this starts to fail we buy a second spindle assembly and then repair the first, the bearings can be had for <£20.

== Material & Tooling Suppliers ==

===Material===
Links below are only suggested sources, do shop around.

* Yellow Foam - Usually found lying around in the secure workshop
* Acrylic - Stock for sale by the laser cutter
* Model Board /Polyeurethane Foam (PU580 recommended for strength, but easy to work. PU240 is soft enough to mark with a fingernail).[http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/Category/Patterns-Moulds-and-Tooling/Tooling-Modelling-Board.aspx Easy Composites]
* Modelling Foam - Can be marked with a finger nail, but resists a thumbprint [http://www.techsoft.co.uk/Products/MillingRoutingMaterials/ModellingFoam Techsoft] (not much stronger than the yellow foam)
*Wood - https://www.toolsandtimber.co.uk/ the lime blocks work well

===Tools===
* Huge range of tools, look for Milling Cutters, General Purpose - [http://www.cutwel.co.uk/home Cutwel]
* Basic HSS and Carbide tools - [http://www.mr-tools.co.uk/catalogue.php Mr Tool]
* Carbide Engraving Tools - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130826028002
* PCB Router CNC NC Carbide RASP DIAMOND - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360652609242

== Related Machines ==
Here are other machines available in this class:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!| Machine
!|URL
!|Price (UKP)
!|Size - X
!|Size - Y
!|Size - Z
!|Notes
|-
|iModela
|[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/imodela-milling-machine-p-1011.html link]
|500
|80
|55
|26
|
|-
|Heiz S400
|[http://www.prototools.co.uk/shop/customer/product.php?productid=18501&cat=0 link]
|1595
|400
|300
|110
|
|-
|Modela Pro MDX-540
|[http://www.rolanddg.co.uk/products/rapid-prototyping/mdx-540/ link]
|13995
|500
|400
|155
|Plastic resin and light metal, 400 to 12,000 rpm,
|-
|Modela MDX-20
|[http://www.rolanddg.co.uk/products/rapid-prototyping/mdx-20_15/ link]
|2799
|200
|150
|60
|Wood, Plaster, Resin (modeling wax, styrenform), Chemical wood, Aluminum (A5052 according to JIS),Brass, 6500 rpm, includes scanning head
|-
|}

Equipment/CNC Model Mill

2021-07-14T12:32:59Z

Ward: /* Training */

{{RedTool}}

[[Equipment|Equipment]] / CNC Model Mill

A model mill for 3D subtractive prototyping, mould making, 3D scanning and PCB milling.

[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|thumb|460px|right|Our Roland MDX-40A Model Mill]]

= Summary =

The MDX-40A is a full-featured CNC (computer numerical control) mill capable of cutting jeweler's wax, resins, chemical wood, acrylic and wood. It is ideal for quickly and easily creating high-quality prototypes, parts, models, and moulds for resin casting.

http://www.rolanddga.com/products/milling/mdx40/

* Capacity: 305 x 305 x 105mm
* Rate (X,Y): 50mm/sec
* Rate (Z): 30mm/sec
* Spindle Speed: 4500 to 15000rpm
* Resolution: 0.01mm
* Materials: Plastics (ABS, Delrin/Acetal, Nylon, Acrylic), tooling board, wood, and modeling wax, PCBs
* Includes scanning head

Here are some examples we've made on the Model Mill (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)

<gallery>
File:Model_Mill_Job_1.jpg
File:ModelMill_Gallery_1.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130407.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130407_2.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130406_1.jpg
File:MDX_Mill_Gallery_20130323_1.jpg
File:KnGI5X2.jpg
</gallery>

Michal Zalewski's [http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/ Guerrilla guide to CNC machining, mold making, and resin casting] has many tips on using a similar CNC mill and ideas for projects, with a particular focus on resin casting.

= Using the Mill=

== Owners ==

The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the equipment, organising maintenance, training others to use it, and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of this item are:

* Paul Osborn
* Robin Sterling

If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the Model Mill, please use the mailing list thread:
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/F0MPTtkjX2E/discussion Log : MDX40 Model Mill]

== Training ==

<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px">
<b>You must must pass Makespace training to use this equipment.
</b><br>

</div>
Follow this link to find training https://classroom.google.com/u/1/c/MTIxMzI2MTc5ODY0

== Health and Safety ==

The Model Mill is unlikely to hurt you, but you can easily hurt it without training so it must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the CNC Router are:
* '''ONLY USE THE MILL IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE MILL RUNNING UNATTENDED'''

As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:

'''SHARP OBJECTS''' - The cutters used by the machine can be very sharp. Care should be taken when handling the cutters or working near the cutters such as when cleaning after use.

'''DUST''' - Ensure the machine is cleaned thoroughly after use.

'''Never use a pneumatic blower'''
This machine is not compatible with a pneumatic blower. Cutting waste may get inside the machine and cause fire or electrical shock.

== Instructions ==

[http://wiki.makespace.org/File:MDX-40A_USE_EN_R1.pdf Product Manual]

===Coordinate Systems===

The main window in VPanel displays the present location of the tool as numerical values. Using these lets you perform manual feed accurately, which can be very convenient in tasks such as aligning the workpiece.

The numerical values that indicate the location of the tool are called "coordinates," and the starting point for the coordinates is called the "origin." The following figure shows a location that is shifted from the origin by 50 millimetres along the X-axis, 30 millimetres along the Y-axis, and 20 millimetres along the Z-axis. This X-axis distance is called the "X-axis coordinate" (or sometimes just the "X coordinate"), and the Y- and Z-axis distances are similarly called the "Y-axis coordinate" and the "Z-axis coordinate."

The distances from the origin for the respective axes to the tool are therefore the corresponding coordinate values.

[[Image:Mill_Coords.PNG]]

It is possible to select the coordinate system that is used to display the tool location in VPanel. ''The selection made here only determines the method used to display coordinates''.

With the actual origin point, you need to perform the setting individually for the coordinate system that is used with the cutting data. It is a good idea to leave the selection at "User Coordinate System" as this is the system used by most programs.

* '''User Coordinate System''': This is a coordinate system in which the location of the origin point can be freely changed.
* '''Machine Coordinate System''': This is a machine-specific coordinate system in which the location of the origin point is fixed and cannot be changed.

===Pausing/Resuming/Quitting of Cutting===
This operation pauses cutting. You perform it using the built-in panel. This also makes it possible to resume cutting at the paused position after an operation such as moving the tool to check the status of the workpiece.

'''Press the VIEW button during cutting.'''
Rotation of the spindle stops, and the tool moves to the VIEW position. While movement of the tool and table is in progress, the VIEW lamp flashes, and after the movement is completed, the lamp lights up.

It is possible to open the front cover while the machine is paused. Before opening the front cover, make sure that the cutting operation stopped completely and that the VIEW lamp is lit.

'''Press and hold the VIEW button.'''
The tool returns to the position where operation was paused, and cutting resumes. After the tool starts moving, the VIEW lamp flashes until cutting is resumed. When cutting is resumed, the VIEW lamp goes dark.

If you open the front cover while the operation is paused, close the front cover, then perform the operation to resume.

===Tool Selection===

Select a tool matched to the purpose. It's a good idea to use the tools selectively, according to the work process (such as rough cutting or finish cutting) and the design.

Cutters is an all-inclusive term used to describe the rotating cutting tools used. Cutters can be manufactured from high speed steel or carbide and are available in a variety of configurations for specific applications.

* '''End mill'''
** Straight end mill: The end cutting edge is flat-shaped. It is suitable for fashioning a flat surface or steps.
** Ball end mill: The end cutting edge is ball-shaped. It is suitable for fashioning a curved surface or waveform.
* '''Engraving cutter'''
** Character cutter: This tool is suitable for engraving in general with broad versatility. It is appropriate for character engraving on the plate.
** Parallel cutter: This cutter is suitable for engraving wide surfaces. This cutter enables engraving large characters and surface leveling (to flatten the surface of the material) of the table where the material is placed. Because both sides have a cutting blade, it is not possible to make a deep cut in the Z-axis direction.

===Recovery of Operation from Emergency Stop or Emergency Shutdown===
If an emergency stop or an emergency shutdown occurs during cutting, remove the tool and the
workpiece from the machine. When the operation resumes, initialization is performed on the machine.

At this time, the tool and the workpiece may collide depending on the position in which the tool and workpiece stopped, which can cause damage to the machine while restarting.

===Overrides===
'''Using Overrides'''
An override is a feature for adjusting the feed rate or spindle speed while cutting is in progress. This is useful when you want to change the feed rate or speed as you monitor the status of cutting. An override value is specified as a percentage. For example, when the command in the cutting data sent from the computer is for a speed of 5,000 rpm, specifying an override of 150% produces an actual speed of 7,500 rpm.

'''Cutting Speed Override'''
This works on the tool movement speed of when the workpiece is being cut. The speed specified by the command in the cutting data is taken to be 100%.

'''Spindle Speed Override'''
This works on the rotation speed of the spindle. The speed specified by the command in the cutting data is taken to be 100%. This is also effective when rotating the spindle during manual operations.

===Setting the Z Origin Using the Z0 Sensor===
''A tool that has an extremely narrow tip may break when it touches the tool sensor depending on which tool is to be used.''

1. Set the workpiece on the table, and place the Z0 sensor at the place where you want to set the Z origin on the workpiece. Face the surface of the Z0 sensor with no screw hole facing upward.

[[image:Mill_z0.PNG]]

2. Use the VPanel feed button and move the tool to the position above the sensor.

3. Close the front cover.

4. Select "Set "Z Origin using sensor" and click Detect. The tool slowly descend until it contacts the sensor. When the tool rises and stops, the setting operation is complete.

Note: It is important the tool is electrically conductive from tip to shaft, and the sensor is clean. Failure to check will cause damage to the tool and sensor.

5. Remove the sensor from the workpiece to a location where it will not interfere with future cutting operations.

==Software==

===[[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill/VPanel|VPanel]]===
[[Image:V_Panel_e.jpg]]

VPanel is a program to operate the modelling machine on the computer screen. It has functions to output cutting data, perform maintenance, and make various corrections. In addition, it displays error messages of the modelling machine.

===ClickMill===
[[Image:ClickMILL_e.jpg]]

ClickMILL is a program that lets you perform simple milling operations without a model (3D shape data). It allows you to perform drilling, chamfering and surface levelling and to cut flat panels to size in rectangular or circular shapes.

===SRP Player===
[[Image:Srp p.jpg]]

SRP Player imports a model (3D data in IGES, DXF [3D], and STL) and cuts a workpiece to transform it into the actual shape. It calculates the path of the blade that performs the cutting, and operates a cutting machine accordingly. The path of the blade is called the "tool path".

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnOkGfqXGjY Sample Part Cutting 1 (video)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEVCNFpSkPo Sample Part Cutting 2 (video)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtLUlEqu5Dk Surfacing and Drilling (Video)]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRGFwBT3dm8 Basic Introduction to SRP Player (Video)]

Note: We do not have the Rotary axis or the tool changer show in some of these videos.

===Cut2D===
[[Image:Cut2d.jpg|180px]]

[http://www.vectric.com/products/cut2d.html Manufacture's site for Cut2D]

Cut2D is easy to use. The software automatically compensates for the cutter diameter and geometry when calculating toolpaths, so you simply select the shapes to machine and Cut2D takes care of the rest.

Cut2D opens CAD drawings and vector designs from most drawing packages and includes filters for the following industry standard file formats: DXF, DWG, EPS, AI & PDF files

Very simple projects can also be drawn directly in Cut2D.

Multiple designs can be imported and combined.

Cut2D allows the you to preview the calculated tool paths in a 3D window to see exactly what the machined part will look like.

[https://www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/cut2d-desktop?playlist=TutorialCategories&category=all Cut2D Tutorials] These tutorials are very good and are your best resource for learning how to use this software.

===CopperCAM===
[[Image:CopperCAM.jpg|180px]]

[http://www.celeritous.com/estore/CopperCAM Manufacture's site for CopperCAM]

An essential part of producing milled printed circuit boards is the ability to convert the Gerber photoplot files produced by most PCB layout tools to a format readable by CNC mill software to either isolate traces and pads or to "rub out" all copper on a board except traces and pads. You also need a tool to convert the common Excellon drill files to CNC language to drill the through holes and vias in the circuit board.

CopperCAM is a program for engraving and isolation routing. It only provides the Gerber and drill file conversion and does not provide any machine control. The exported files should be loaded and run via the vPanel software for download to the mill.

== Tips & Tricks ==
===Conventional milling versus climb milling===

A milling cutter can cut in two directions, sometimes known as conventional or up and climb or down.

[[File:Climb_Conv1.JPG]]

'''Conventional milling (left):''' The chip thickness starts at zero thickness, and increases up to the maximum. The cut is so light at the beginning that the tool does not cut, but slides across the surface of the material, until sufficient pressure is built up and the tooth suddenly bites and begins to cut. In metals this deforms the material (at point A on the diagram, left), work hardening it, dulling the tool and leaves a poor finish on the material.

'''Climb milling (right):''' Each tooth engages the material at a definite point, and the width of the cut starts at the maximum and decreases to zero. The chips are disposed behind the cutter, leading to easier swarf removal. The tooth does not rub on the material, and so tool life may be longer. However, climb milling can apply larger loads to the machine, and so is not recommended for older milling machines, or machines which are not in good condition.

While climb cutting is the most prevalent method in metalworking and conventional cutting is the dominant method in woodworking, plastics routing is somewhere in between the two. There are usually significant differences between the finish on a climb cut part and a conventional cut part, and the degree of difference varies by plastic and cutter geometry. The only rule of thumb that can be offered is that most soft plastics (HDPE, UHMW, polypropylene, etc.) respond best to conventional cutting, while some harder materials (acrylic, polycarbonate, nylon) occasionally respond better to climb cutting.

The other factors when considering climb or conventional cutting are the aggressiveness of the cutter and part hold down. Climb cutting is a much more aggressive means of cutting and can chatter or move small parts that are not fixtured well. In most cases, soft chips that are difficult to extract from the cut are also more likely to weld to the climb-cut side rather than the conventional cut side. The best method of approach for most new materials is to run sample parts with both methods of cutting at the same feeds and speeds and make the determination from there.

===Milling Wood===

When milling wood, always set the path to raster and position your piece so that the tool is passing with the grain. If you use other settings then swarf builds up and can easily jam the tool. If you are cutting large areas of wood then you will need to be alert to the machine jamming due to build up of swarf, so don't go far. The machine does not work terribly well as a thicknesser, so consider using the bandsaw (although it doesn't like lime very much) or the CNC router. Clean the machine once you can see it getting really dusty, not at the end of the job, or it will take hours! Manually remove big chippings or Henry will choke on them.

=== Making PCBs ===

The Model Mill should not be used to machine metal. It isn't strong enough, and the HSS cutter provided by Makespace will be damaged by metal and fibreglass (e.g. FR4 PCBs) very quickly.
However, if you are considered by the Owners to be an experienced and careful Mill User, then it is possible to make basic PCBs providing you use your own mill bed and cutters. For more information see the helpful guide here: [[PCB_milling]]

=== Making your own Base Plate ===

If you want to use screws to secure workpieces, or mounting holes etc you should make your own base to replace the public base installed in the mill. You can make a base plate easily using the large CNC Router. If you do not have access to that equipment, ask around for help, its a quick job.
The base can be made from thick MDF or plywood. An example design file in SVG format is here: [[Media:model_mill_base.svg.zip]]

=Stock Tools=

Rough notes - siw

Cutter * Shaft * cutter Length * total length * type * material

* 3*3*3*75*ball*carbid Europa Tool Co.Ltd.
* 3*6*10*35*square*hss MR Tool
* 5*6*15*45*square*hss MR Tool
* 2*6*5*29*square*hss MR Tool
* 1*6*3*25*square*hss MR Tool
* 6*6*30*75*ball*carbid europa tool co ltd
* 6*6*20*45*square*hss MR Tool
* 4*6*12.5*40*square*hss MR Tool

* engraving tip 3.3*10mm sholder shaft 6mm total tool length 75, tip 0.2, 30deg carbid
* engraving tip 6*10mm sholder shat 6mm total tool length 45, tip 0.2, 30deg HSS

* engraving tip 1/4" 0.1 30deg 32 total

drills
* 1/4" 0.8mm * 8mm 38mm total
* 1/4" 0.9mm * 8mm 38mm total

Collets

* 1/8"
* 1/4"
* 6mm * 2
* 4mm
* 3mm
* 5mm

= Maintenance =

The maintenance of the Model Mill is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.

== Maintenance Schedule ==

Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Model Mill Users''')
* Clean the mill with a 1" paint brush, remove as much dust from the spindle area as possible before vacuuming.
* Hover all the inside of the mill, and under it. '''Do not blow the dust, it goes everywhere!'''
* Clean any debris off bed and surround using soft brush

The machine should look like this after use!

<gallery>
File:WP_20130417_005.jpg
File:WP_20130417_004.jpg
File:WP_20130417_002.jpg
</gallery>

Basic Maintenance (done by Model Mill Maintainers)
* The spindle unit and the belt are parts that wear out. The replacement cycle varies according to usage conditions, but as a general guide, you should replace them after every 2,000 hours of use. You can use VPanel to view the total working time of the spindle.

== Maintenance Log ==

Installed on 21st March 2013.

== Maintenance Shopping List ==

= Further Information =

== Installation ==

== Purchase ==
* MP-ROTO-MDX40AE (mill - £4,695)
* RL-ROTO-TS30SCAN (scanner head - £295)
* Selection of tooling (???)
* Sample selection of materials (???)

== Repairs ==

Expected on-going maintenance costs are expected to be very low if maintained correctly. Two areas that will need watching for repair are:

* Spindle drive belt expected life 1000's of Hours (Supplier holds in stock) ~£10
* Spindle assembly (bearings fail) 10000 Hours MTBF (Supplier holds in stock) £195. It is suggest that when this starts to fail we buy a second spindle assembly and then repair the first, the bearings can be had for <£20.

== Material & Tooling Suppliers ==

===Material===
Links below are only suggested sources, do shop around.

* Yellow Foam - Usually found lying around in the secure workshop
* Acrylic - Stock for sale by the laser cutter
* Model Board /Polyeurethane Foam (PU580 recommended for strength, but easy to work. PU240 is soft enough to mark with a fingernail).[http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/Category/Patterns-Moulds-and-Tooling/Tooling-Modelling-Board.aspx Easy Composites]
* Modelling Foam - Can be marked with a finger nail, but resists a thumbprint [http://www.techsoft.co.uk/Products/MillingRoutingMaterials/ModellingFoam Techsoft] (not much stronger than the yellow foam)
*Wood - https://www.toolsandtimber.co.uk/ the lime blocks work well

===Tools===
* Huge range of tools, look for Milling Cutters, General Purpose - [http://www.cutwel.co.uk/home Cutwel]
* Basic HSS and Carbide tools - [http://www.mr-tools.co.uk/catalogue.php Mr Tool]
* Carbide Engraving Tools - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130826028002
* PCB Router CNC NC Carbide RASP DIAMOND - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360652609242

== Related Machines ==
Here are other machines available in this class:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!| Machine
!|URL
!|Price (UKP)
!|Size - X
!|Size - Y
!|Size - Z
!|Notes
|-
|iModela
|[http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/imodela-milling-machine-p-1011.html link]
|500
|80
|55
|26
|
|-
|Heiz S400
|[http://www.prototools.co.uk/shop/customer/product.php?productid=18501&cat=0 link]
|1595
|400
|300
|110
|
|-
|Modela Pro MDX-540
|[http://www.rolanddg.co.uk/products/rapid-prototyping/mdx-540/ link]
|13995
|500
|400
|155
|Plastic resin and light metal, 400 to 12,000 rpm,
|-
|Modela MDX-20
|[http://www.rolanddg.co.uk/products/rapid-prototyping/mdx-20_15/ link]
|2799
|200
|150
|60
|Wood, Plaster, Resin (modeling wax, styrenform), Chemical wood, Aluminum (A5052 according to JIS),Brass, 6500 rpm, includes scanning head
|-
|}