http://wiki.makespace.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=RobCopcutt&feedformat=atomMakespace - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T19:44:49ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.22.6http://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-11-12T02:01:01Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.<br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to 32 cm in diameter and about 65 cm long. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
Some examples of what we have made:<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Alaric Worrod<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoLathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
We a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
There are a number of oiling points that need periodic application of oil with the supplied pot.<br />
<br />
The drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
= Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1 =<br />
Safety.<br />
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.<br />
It is you that makes the difference.<br />
<br />
Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:<br />
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.<br />
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.<br />
Getting to know your lathe<br />
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part<br />
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Setting up your lathe<br />
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.<br />
<br />
Checking the lathe.<br />
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.<br />
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass. <br />
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
<br />
Preparing the job<br />
The 3 Jaw Chuck <br />
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.<br />
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy. <br />
<br />
Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.<br />
<br />
One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck<br />
Now place your job in the lathe. <br />
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height <br />
<br />
Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square. <br />
Get a good end to start from.<br />
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
<br />
Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning. <br />
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.<br />
<br />
Starting your lathe<br />
The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
Starting on right-hand handle. <br />
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal. <br />
<br />
Emergency Stop Foot Pedal<br />
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.<br />
<br />
Cutting tools <br />
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand. <br />
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore. <br />
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture<br />
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture<br />
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture<br />
<br />
Quick Change Tool<br />
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again. <br />
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check <br />
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here. <br />
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.<br />
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2<br />
Cutting Notes<br />
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder. <br />
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course. <br />
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work<br />
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there <br />
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.<br />
<br />
Dead Stop <br />
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is. <br />
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.<br />
<br />
Lubrication<br />
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.<br />
Cross cut (end or face cutting)<br />
<br />
Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed. <br />
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Long cut (turning)<br />
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.<br />
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
<br />
Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.<br />
Tail Stock<br />
Centring tool <br />
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear. <br />
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room. <br />
<br />
The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.<br />
Power feed. <br />
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut<br />
• Check you have set the correct direction<br />
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.<br />
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.<br />
<br />
Evaluation<br />
Demonstrate that you understand the following:<br />
• All matters safety related<br />
• How to start up the lathe<br />
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox<br />
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover<br />
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle <br />
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them<br />
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it<br />
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents<br />
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work<br />
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide<br />
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job<br />
Shutdown at end of work.<br />
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.<br />
Cleaning: leave it clean! <br />
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied. <br />
For clearing up gloves are mandatory. <br />
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin. <br />
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door<br />
<br />
Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Abom79 has made many good videos including this one about workshop etiquette https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugIu1QzfZ5c <br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
This Old Tony is also good; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__A2xtLF0AU<br />
<br />
AVE doesn't have many lathe work videos, but has some good tips on workshop practice. https://www.youtube.com/user/arduinoversusevil/videos<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-06-21T21:20:17Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.<br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to 32 cm in diameter and about 65 cm long. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
Some examples of what we have made:<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Alaric Worrod<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoLathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
We a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
There are a number of oiling points that need periodic application of oil with the supplied pot.<br />
<br />
The drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
= Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1 =<br />
Safety.<br />
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.<br />
It is you that makes the difference.<br />
<br />
Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:<br />
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.<br />
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.<br />
Getting to know your lathe<br />
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part<br />
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Setting up your lathe<br />
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.<br />
<br />
Checking the lathe.<br />
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.<br />
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass. <br />
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
<br />
Preparing the job<br />
The 3 Jaw Chuck <br />
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.<br />
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy. <br />
<br />
Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.<br />
<br />
One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck<br />
Now place your job in the lathe. <br />
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height <br />
<br />
Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square. <br />
Get a good end to start from.<br />
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
<br />
Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning. <br />
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.<br />
<br />
Starting your lathe<br />
The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
Starting on right-hand handle. <br />
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal. <br />
<br />
Emergency Stop Foot Pedal<br />
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.<br />
<br />
Cutting tools <br />
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand. <br />
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore. <br />
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture<br />
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture<br />
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture<br />
<br />
Quick Change Tool<br />
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again. <br />
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check <br />
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here. <br />
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.<br />
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2<br />
Cutting Notes<br />
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder. <br />
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course. <br />
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work<br />
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there <br />
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.<br />
<br />
Dead Stop <br />
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is. <br />
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.<br />
<br />
Lubrication<br />
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.<br />
Cross cut (end or face cutting)<br />
<br />
Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed. <br />
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Long cut (turning)<br />
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.<br />
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
<br />
Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.<br />
Tail Stock<br />
Centring tool <br />
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear. <br />
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room. <br />
<br />
The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.<br />
Power feed. <br />
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut<br />
• Check you have set the correct direction<br />
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.<br />
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.<br />
<br />
Evaluation<br />
Demonstrate that you understand the following:<br />
• All matters safety related<br />
• How to start up the lathe<br />
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox<br />
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover<br />
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle <br />
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them<br />
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it<br />
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents<br />
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work<br />
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide<br />
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job<br />
Shutdown at end of work.<br />
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.<br />
Cleaning: leave it clean! <br />
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied. <br />
For clearing up gloves are mandatory. <br />
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin. <br />
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door<br />
<br />
Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-06-21T21:02:57Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Using the lathe */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.<br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to 20 cm in diameter and about 50cm long. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
Some examples of what we have made:<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Alaric Worrod<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoLathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
We a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
There are a number of oiling points that need periodic application of oil with the supplied pot.<br />
<br />
The drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
= Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1 =<br />
Safety.<br />
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.<br />
It is you that makes the difference.<br />
<br />
Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:<br />
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.<br />
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.<br />
Getting to know your lathe<br />
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part<br />
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Setting up your lathe<br />
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.<br />
<br />
Checking the lathe.<br />
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.<br />
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass. <br />
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
<br />
Preparing the job<br />
The 3 Jaw Chuck <br />
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.<br />
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy. <br />
<br />
Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.<br />
<br />
One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck<br />
Now place your job in the lathe. <br />
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height <br />
<br />
Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square. <br />
Get a good end to start from.<br />
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
<br />
Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning. <br />
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.<br />
<br />
Starting your lathe<br />
The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
Starting on right-hand handle. <br />
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal. <br />
<br />
Emergency Stop Foot Pedal<br />
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.<br />
<br />
Cutting tools <br />
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand. <br />
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore. <br />
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture<br />
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture<br />
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture<br />
<br />
Quick Change Tool<br />
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again. <br />
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check <br />
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here. <br />
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.<br />
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2<br />
Cutting Notes<br />
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder. <br />
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course. <br />
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work<br />
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there <br />
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.<br />
<br />
Dead Stop <br />
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is. <br />
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.<br />
<br />
Lubrication<br />
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.<br />
Cross cut (end or face cutting)<br />
<br />
Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed. <br />
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Long cut (turning)<br />
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.<br />
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
<br />
Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.<br />
Tail Stock<br />
Centring tool <br />
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear. <br />
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room. <br />
<br />
The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.<br />
Power feed. <br />
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut<br />
• Check you have set the correct direction<br />
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.<br />
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.<br />
<br />
Evaluation<br />
Demonstrate that you understand the following:<br />
• All matters safety related<br />
• How to start up the lathe<br />
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox<br />
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover<br />
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle <br />
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them<br />
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it<br />
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents<br />
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work<br />
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide<br />
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job<br />
Shutdown at end of work.<br />
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.<br />
Cleaning: leave it clean! <br />
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied. <br />
For clearing up gloves are mandatory. <br />
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin. <br />
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door<br />
<br />
Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-06-21T21:00:46Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.<br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
Some examples of what we have made:<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Alaric Worrod<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoLathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
We a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
There are a number of oiling points that need periodic application of oil with the supplied pot.<br />
<br />
The drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
= Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1 =<br />
Safety.<br />
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.<br />
It is you that makes the difference.<br />
<br />
Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:<br />
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.<br />
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.<br />
Getting to know your lathe<br />
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part<br />
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Setting up your lathe<br />
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.<br />
<br />
Checking the lathe.<br />
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.<br />
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass. <br />
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
<br />
Preparing the job<br />
The 3 Jaw Chuck <br />
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.<br />
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy. <br />
<br />
Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.<br />
<br />
One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck<br />
Now place your job in the lathe. <br />
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height <br />
<br />
Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square. <br />
Get a good end to start from.<br />
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
<br />
Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning. <br />
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.<br />
<br />
Starting your lathe<br />
The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
Starting on right-hand handle. <br />
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal. <br />
<br />
Emergency Stop Foot Pedal<br />
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.<br />
<br />
Cutting tools <br />
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand. <br />
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore. <br />
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture<br />
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture<br />
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture<br />
<br />
Quick Change Tool<br />
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again. <br />
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check <br />
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here. <br />
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.<br />
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2<br />
Cutting Notes<br />
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder. <br />
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course. <br />
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work<br />
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there <br />
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.<br />
<br />
Dead Stop <br />
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is. <br />
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.<br />
<br />
Lubrication<br />
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.<br />
Cross cut (end or face cutting)<br />
<br />
Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed. <br />
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Long cut (turning)<br />
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.<br />
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
<br />
Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.<br />
Tail Stock<br />
Centring tool <br />
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear. <br />
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room. <br />
<br />
The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.<br />
Power feed. <br />
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut<br />
• Check you have set the correct direction<br />
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.<br />
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.<br />
<br />
Evaluation<br />
Demonstrate that you understand the following:<br />
• All matters safety related<br />
• How to start up the lathe<br />
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox<br />
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover<br />
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle <br />
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them<br />
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it<br />
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents<br />
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work<br />
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide<br />
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job<br />
Shutdown at end of work.<br />
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.<br />
Cleaning: leave it clean! <br />
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied. <br />
For clearing up gloves are mandatory. <br />
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin. <br />
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door<br />
<br />
Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-06-21T20:56:32Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.<br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
Some examples of what we have made:<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Alaric Worrod<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoLathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
We a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
There are a number of oiling points that need periodic application of oil with the supplied pot.<br />
<br />
The drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
Members must be fully trained before using the lathe so please contact the owners if you would like training. <br />
<br />
Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1<br />
Safety.<br />
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.<br />
It is you that makes the difference.<br />
<br />
Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:<br />
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.<br />
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.<br />
Getting to know your lathe<br />
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part<br />
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Setting up your lathe<br />
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.<br />
<br />
Checking the lathe.<br />
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.<br />
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass. <br />
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
<br />
Preparing the job<br />
The 3 Jaw Chuck <br />
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.<br />
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy. <br />
<br />
Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.<br />
<br />
One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck<br />
Now place your job in the lathe. <br />
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height <br />
<br />
Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square. <br />
Get a good end to start from.<br />
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
<br />
Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning. <br />
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.<br />
<br />
Starting your lathe<br />
The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
Starting on right-hand handle. <br />
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal. <br />
<br />
Emergency Stop Foot Pedal<br />
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.<br />
<br />
Cutting tools <br />
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand. <br />
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore. <br />
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture<br />
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture<br />
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture<br />
<br />
Quick Change Tool<br />
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again. <br />
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check <br />
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here. <br />
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.<br />
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2<br />
Cutting Notes<br />
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder. <br />
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course. <br />
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work<br />
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there <br />
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.<br />
<br />
Dead Stop <br />
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is. <br />
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.<br />
<br />
Lubrication<br />
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.<br />
Cross cut (end or face cutting)<br />
<br />
Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed. <br />
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Long cut (turning)<br />
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.<br />
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
<br />
Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.<br />
Tail Stock<br />
Centring tool <br />
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear. <br />
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room. <br />
<br />
The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.<br />
Power feed. <br />
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut<br />
• Check you have set the correct direction<br />
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.<br />
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.<br />
<br />
Evaluation<br />
Demonstrate that you understand the following:<br />
• All matters safety related<br />
• How to start up the lathe<br />
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox<br />
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover<br />
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle <br />
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them<br />
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it<br />
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents<br />
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work<br />
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide<br />
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job<br />
Shutdown at end of work.<br />
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.<br />
Cleaning: leave it clean! <br />
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied. <br />
For clearing up gloves are mandatory. <br />
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin. <br />
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door<br />
<br />
Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-06-21T20:52:17Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Maintenance */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.<br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
Some examples of what we have made:<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoLathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
We a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
There are a number of oiling points that need periodic application of oil with the supplied pot.<br />
<br />
The drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
Members must be fully trained before using the lathe so please contact the owners if you would like training. <br />
<br />
Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1<br />
Safety.<br />
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.<br />
It is you that makes the difference.<br />
<br />
Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:<br />
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.<br />
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.<br />
Getting to know your lathe<br />
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part<br />
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Setting up your lathe<br />
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.<br />
<br />
Checking the lathe.<br />
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.<br />
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass. <br />
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
<br />
Preparing the job<br />
The 3 Jaw Chuck <br />
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.<br />
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy. <br />
<br />
Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.<br />
<br />
One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck<br />
Now place your job in the lathe. <br />
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height <br />
<br />
Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square. <br />
Get a good end to start from.<br />
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
<br />
Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning. <br />
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.<br />
<br />
Starting your lathe<br />
The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
Starting on right-hand handle. <br />
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal. <br />
<br />
Emergency Stop Foot Pedal<br />
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.<br />
<br />
Cutting tools <br />
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand. <br />
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore. <br />
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture<br />
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture<br />
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture<br />
<br />
Quick Change Tool<br />
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again. <br />
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check <br />
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here. <br />
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.<br />
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2<br />
Cutting Notes<br />
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder. <br />
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course. <br />
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work<br />
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there <br />
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.<br />
<br />
Dead Stop <br />
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is. <br />
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.<br />
<br />
Lubrication<br />
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.<br />
Cross cut (end or face cutting)<br />
<br />
Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed. <br />
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Long cut (turning)<br />
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.<br />
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
<br />
Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.<br />
Tail Stock<br />
Centring tool <br />
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear. <br />
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room. <br />
<br />
The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.<br />
Power feed. <br />
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut<br />
• Check you have set the correct direction<br />
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.<br />
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.<br />
<br />
Evaluation<br />
Demonstrate that you understand the following:<br />
• All matters safety related<br />
• How to start up the lathe<br />
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox<br />
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover<br />
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle <br />
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them<br />
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it<br />
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents<br />
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work<br />
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide<br />
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job<br />
Shutdown at end of work.<br />
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.<br />
Cleaning: leave it clean! <br />
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied. <br />
For clearing up gloves are mandatory. <br />
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin. <br />
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door<br />
<br />
Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Alaric Worrod<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-06-21T20:39:44Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.<br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
Some examples of what we have made:<br />
<br />
<br />
Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoLathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
We a copy of a workshop safety manual from the CRC that provides a comprehensive guide to using lathes and related equipment. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at it - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
Members must be fully trained before using the lathe so please contact the owners if you would like training. <br />
<br />
Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1<br />
Safety.<br />
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.<br />
It is you that makes the difference.<br />
<br />
Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:<br />
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.<br />
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.<br />
Getting to know your lathe<br />
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part<br />
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Setting up your lathe<br />
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.<br />
<br />
Checking the lathe.<br />
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.<br />
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass. <br />
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
<br />
Preparing the job<br />
The 3 Jaw Chuck <br />
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.<br />
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy. <br />
<br />
Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.<br />
<br />
One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck<br />
Now place your job in the lathe. <br />
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height <br />
<br />
Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square. <br />
Get a good end to start from.<br />
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
<br />
Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning. <br />
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.<br />
<br />
Starting your lathe<br />
The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
Starting on right-hand handle. <br />
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal. <br />
<br />
Emergency Stop Foot Pedal<br />
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.<br />
<br />
Cutting tools <br />
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand. <br />
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore. <br />
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture<br />
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture<br />
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture<br />
<br />
Quick Change Tool<br />
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again. <br />
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check <br />
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here. <br />
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.<br />
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2<br />
Cutting Notes<br />
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder. <br />
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course. <br />
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work<br />
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there <br />
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.<br />
<br />
Dead Stop <br />
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is. <br />
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.<br />
<br />
Lubrication<br />
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.<br />
Cross cut (end or face cutting)<br />
<br />
Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed. <br />
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Long cut (turning)<br />
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.<br />
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
<br />
Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.<br />
Tail Stock<br />
Centring tool <br />
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear. <br />
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room. <br />
<br />
The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.<br />
Power feed. <br />
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut<br />
• Check you have set the correct direction<br />
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.<br />
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.<br />
<br />
Evaluation<br />
Demonstrate that you understand the following:<br />
• All matters safety related<br />
• How to start up the lathe<br />
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox<br />
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover<br />
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle <br />
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them<br />
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it<br />
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents<br />
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work<br />
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide<br />
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job<br />
Shutdown at end of work.<br />
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.<br />
Cleaning: leave it clean! <br />
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied. <br />
For clearing up gloves are mandatory. <br />
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin. <br />
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door<br />
<br />
Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Alaric Worrod<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-06-21T20:18:18Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Summary */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
Makespace has a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition.<br />
<br />
= Using the Lathe =<br />
<br />
The lathe is used to accurately turn round parts out of solid materials such as plastic and metals. Some examples of what we have made:<br />
<br />
Members must be fully trained before using the lathe so please contact the owners if you would like training. <br />
<br />
Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1<br />
Safety.<br />
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.<br />
It is you that makes the difference.<br />
<br />
Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:<br />
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.<br />
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.<br />
Getting to know your lathe<br />
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part<br />
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Setting up your lathe<br />
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.<br />
<br />
Checking the lathe.<br />
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.<br />
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass. <br />
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
<br />
Preparing the job<br />
The 3 Jaw Chuck <br />
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.<br />
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy. <br />
<br />
Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.<br />
<br />
One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck<br />
Now place your job in the lathe. <br />
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height <br />
<br />
Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square. <br />
Get a good end to start from.<br />
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
<br />
Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning. <br />
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.<br />
<br />
Starting your lathe<br />
The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
Starting on right-hand handle. <br />
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal. <br />
<br />
Emergency Stop Foot Pedal<br />
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.<br />
<br />
Cutting tools <br />
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand. <br />
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore. <br />
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture<br />
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture<br />
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture<br />
<br />
Quick Change Tool<br />
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again. <br />
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check <br />
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here. <br />
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.<br />
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2<br />
Cutting Notes<br />
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder. <br />
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course. <br />
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work<br />
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there <br />
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.<br />
<br />
Dead Stop <br />
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is. <br />
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.<br />
<br />
Lubrication<br />
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.<br />
Cross cut (end or face cutting)<br />
<br />
Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed. <br />
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Long cut (turning)<br />
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.<br />
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
<br />
Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.<br />
Tail Stock<br />
Centring tool <br />
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear. <br />
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room. <br />
<br />
The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.<br />
Power feed. <br />
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut<br />
• Check you have set the correct direction<br />
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.<br />
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.<br />
<br />
Evaluation<br />
Demonstrate that you understand the following:<br />
• All matters safety related<br />
• How to start up the lathe<br />
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox<br />
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover<br />
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle <br />
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them<br />
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it<br />
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents<br />
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work<br />
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide<br />
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job<br />
Shutdown at end of work.<br />
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.<br />
Cleaning: leave it clean! <br />
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied. <br />
For clearing up gloves are mandatory. <br />
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin. <br />
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door<br />
<br />
Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Alaric Worrod<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Laser_CutterEquipment/Laser Cutter2018-06-21T20:11:29Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Using the Laser Cutter */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Laser Cutter<br />
<br />
[[File:Makespace-laser-cutter.JPG|thumb|460px|right|Our LS6090 PRO Laser Cutter]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have two LS 6090 PRO Laser Cutters. Each has a working area of 900mm by 600mm, and is powered by a 60w CO2 Water Cooled Laser Tube that can engrave and cut through materials such as wood, plastic, card, leather, fabrics, up to about 10-15mm thick (note, it can not cut metal). The laser cut is approximately 0.15mm wide, and a job can take a few seconds through to tens of minutes depending on material thickness and design complexity. <br />
<br />
We have dedicated PCs running LaserCut 5.3 software to import, prepare and download jobs to the Laser Cutter. It can import various formats, with DXF being the most commonly used, so various software packages can be used to create your designs.<br />
<br />
Here are some examples of laser jobs we've run (please add a photo of yours any time you do a job!)<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Laser-cut-focus-tool.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-front-panels.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-lizards.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-m-and-s.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-model-building.JPG<br />
File:Laser-cut-ply-m.JPG<br />
File:Laser_output_-_makespace_arrow.JPG<br />
File:Laser_box.jpg<br />
File:Croc-small.jpg<br />
File:LaserCutter_Jobs_1.jpg<br />
File:LaserCutterGallery_20130328.jpg<br />
File:LasercutSettlers.jpg<br />
File:Wolfstock1.jpg<br />
File:Mug-holder.jpg<br />
File:2013-10-21 20.10.06.jpg<br />
File:Indy jigster.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the Laser Cutters =<br />
<br />
The laser cutters are a great way to easily produce accurate and complex 2D forms in various materials, and can be designed for with limited experience in various drawing or CAD applications. At the same time, it is an expensive tool with real risk of injury and fire, so is very important you know how to use it to avoid damaging yourself and the machine. '''You must only use the laser cutter if you have been trained, and if you are ever in any doubt about something, please ask for assistance.'''<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The Owners are those who have volunteered to be in charge of the laser cutter, organising maintenance, responding to technical issues and generally being a point of contact. The current Owners of the Laser Cutter are:<br />
<br />
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]<br />
* [[User:DianaProbst|Diana Probst]]<br />
<br />
== Trainers ==<br />
<br />
The Trainers are those who have volunteered to teach others to use the laser cutter and to promote good working practice. The current Trainers for the Laser Cutter are:<br />
<br />
* Brian Starkey<br />
* [[User:Mat-C|Mat Cook]]<br />
* [[User:Barhamd|David Barham]]<br />
* Katy Marshall<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, problems or concerns around the laser cutter, please use the forum page:<br />
* [http://makespace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=45 Laser Cutter Log]<br />
<br />
For the old mailing list thread see here:<br />
* [https://groups.google.com/d/topic/cammakespace/Tmce2iKVzD8/discussion Log : Laser Cutter]<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>YOU CAN ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU HAVE BEEN TRAINED</b><br><br />
and have been added to the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training#Trained_Users|Trained Users]] list by one of the Owners<br />
</div><br />
<br />
To get trained on the laser cutter and be added to the qualified user list, you will need to arrange for a training session with one of the Laser Cutter Owners. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to arrange training, please see:<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Training|Laser Cutter Training]]<br />
<br />
== Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The laser cutter is a potentially dangerous piece of equipment which must only be operated by members who have received appropriate training and who take due care. The top things to always remember when using the laser cutter are:<br />
* '''ONLY USE THE LASER CUTTER IF YOU ARE ON THE LIST OF TRAINED USERS'''<br />
* '''NEVER LEAVE THE LASER CUTTER RUNNING UNATTENDED'''<br />
* '''KNOW WHAT TO DO IF A FIRE BREAKS OUT'''<br />
* '''NEVER CUT MATERIALS THAT YOU DON'T KNOW ARE SAFE'''<br />
<br />
As a trained user, you should be very aware of the following risks and how to deal with them:<br />
<br />
'''FIRE (under normal operation)''' - Cutting at the wrong speed or the wrong power can result in the material igniting<br />
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur<br />
* Small flashes of flame that don't hang around for a fraction of a second are acceptable, but any more is rare and not acceptable<br />
* If a fire does take, this is the process you should follow (from minor to major):<br />
** Press "pause" (the same button you started the job with) - This will turn the laser off so no more heat enters, and assuming the flame goes out, you can press "start" for the job to continue where it left off<br />
** Open the lid - With the job paused, you can open the lid to blow out the flame. Again, it is possible to re-close the lid and continue where you left off<br />
** Move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics; alternatively send the laser to home/datum), and smother with a spare sheet of material or blow out<br />
** Use the workshop CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame<br />
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at <br />
<br />
'''FIRE (abnormal operation)''' - If the head gets stuck or something else goes wrong, ignition could happen much more suddenly or intensely<br />
* You must watch the cutter at all times and be prepared to abort the job if problems occur<br />
* If the head gets trapped (e.g. tomb-stoning of a piece, mechanical failure) or any other problem occurs that causes or could cause fire, this is the process you should follow:<br />
** Hit the emergency stop<br />
** Open the lid and move the material from under the laser head assuming safe to do so (so it doesn't damage the optics)<br />
** Blow out, smother with a spare sheet of material, or use the CO2 extinguisher to extinguish the flame as appropriate<br />
* Ensure a Maintainer looks at the machine before it is brought back in to action if it is not obvious what went wrong and all is ok<br />
* You should also make a note in the log if any of this happens with associated materials and settings so we can keep track of any particular materials/settings we should look at <br />
<br />
'''FUMES''' - The laser cutting process will release different smoke and fumes depending on the material.<br />
* Never cut PVC or a material you are not sure is safe. When PVC is heated it releases chlorine gas, this mixes with the moisture in the air and the result is hydrochloric acid which is toxic to humans and corrosive to machines. <br />
* Ensure the filter is on and the cutter lid stays closed for a while after a job to allow the fumes to clear. <br />
* If you are feeling strange, think the fume build up is too much, or for any other reason you are unsure, stop the job.<br />
<br />
'''TRAPPING''' - The head and bed of the cutter can be moved by the front panel menu or programs in the machines memory. <br />
* Be careful when working inside the cutting area or with the lid open not to trap hands, hair, clothing or anything else. <br />
* Always check the machine for unexpected items that may have fallen in before closing the lid. <br />
* Do not attempt to climb into the machine!<br />
<br />
'''LASER BURNS/LIGHT''' - A 60W laser can do real damage. <br />
* The laser should be safe within the confines of the machine, and cut-off automatically when the lid is open (although this should not be relied upon). The top window is safe to look through during a job, but do not attempt to interfere with these windows or the laser or in any way invent some way to look at the laser.<br />
* Do not tamper with the laser cutter, or any interlocks. All side panels of the laser should always be closed and locked whilst the machine is plugged in. <br />
* Do not put metal in the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
== Can I cut it? ==<br />
<br />
If it's not on this list, the answer is "NO YOU CAN'T CUT IT AT MAKESPACE". Even if other people say it's ok. Bear in mind that we can't ventilate externally like other people can.<br />
<br />
If it's something that isn't covered here, do ask on the forums and we'll look into it :)<br />
<br />
*Woody things<br />
** Wood: yes! (be careful of fire)<br />
** Plywood: yes if it is "laser ply". Normal plywood has non-laser compatible glue<br />
** MDF: no. Clogs up our filters and smells bad.<br />
** LaserMDF: no. It produces perhaps 50% the gunk of MDF but still too much.<br />
** Cork: yes, but it with a badly charred edge, and won't cut very deeply --- try cutting from the back of your sheet and using the cut to guide a craft knife / scalpel to make a neat cut through to the front.<br />
<br />
*Plasticy things<br />
** Acrylic / Perspex: yes!<br />
** PVC/Vinyl: absolutely not. Produces chlorine.<br />
** Silicone: we tried it with very limited success. A mm or two perhaps, anything else chars and doesn't cut.<br />
** White Delrin/Acetal: yes with great care. Make sure filters running well. Don't open lid too quickly. Check for fumes and fire.<br />
** Black Delrin/Acetal: no. contains carbon black which can be toxic.<br />
** Teflon: no (it is toxic)<br />
** Nylon: no (consult an owner)<br />
** Polythene/polyethylene: no (consult an owner)<br />
** Lexan/Polycarbonate: no (consult an owner)<br />
** Polypropylene: yes just. You must clean the bed. It will cut up to about 2mm. It's not a great quality cut, but just about doable. Fire risk.<br />
** GPPS / Polystyrene / HIPS in thin solid sheet form: maybe. ask owner to help. NO FOAM (it's highly flammable)<br />
<br />
*Papery things<br />
** Card/Paper: yes! (be careful of fire)<br />
** Tissue: yes if super super really careful (be REALLY careful of fire, have emergency procedure in place before you start)<br />
<br />
*Metally things<br />
** Metal of any thickness doesn't cut. The surface can be engraved with a paint application. LMM6000 Surmark/Thermark has been tested and is suggested for use, but expensive. The owners suggest a speed of 800 and maximum power.<br />
<br />
*Exotics<br />
** Fibre glass: no (unknown resin, glass particles)<br />
** Carbon Fibre: no<br />
** Slate: engravable for good effect<br />
<br />
Good list of info here: http://inventionstudio.gatech.edu/wiki/Laser_cutter (page disappeared, some time before 2016-12-12)<br />
<br />
Very detailed cutting properties here: http://microfluidics.cnsi.ucsb.edu/tools/Trotec_laser_cutter/Synrad%20LaserProcessingGuide_Plastics.pdf<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
To use the laser cutter, you must have been trained and have had your name added to the trained user list; these instructions are not a substitute for this training. See the training section to understand how you can become qualified to use the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
Although not a requirement, it is recommended someone else trained is also present when using the laser cutter. Having two pairs of eyes helps avoid forgotten steps, allows for double checking, clarifications and discussions, and ensures a greater pool of experience is both present and being built up as the laser is used.<br />
<br />
'''Power Up'''<br />
<br />
Give the machine a quick visual check. Make sure that there is nothing left on the bed, the water reservoir of the chiller looks normal, and that the equipment has no obvious damage or signs of being out-of-action. If the bed looks like it has residue on it, give it a wipe with IPA and a cloth. <br />
<br />
Turn on primary switch on the trunking marked 'Laser'. The air filter system to the right of the laser cutter should start as should the air pump and the chiller. It should power up, make a decent amount of noise, and the lights should indicate the filter is in good condition (i.e. no need for replacement).<br />
<br />
Make sure the lid is closed. Turn on the laser using the key on the right hand side. The inspection lamp should come on, a satisfying hum start up, and the cutter go into doing its self-checks.<br />
<br />
Before doing any job, the laser should be left to warm up for 4-5 mins. While the machine warms up, power on the adjacent PC and start the LaserCut application from the desktop. During this time the water temperature shown on the chiller should drop from ambient temperature to the usual setting of 18C.<br />
<br />
'''LaserCut 5.3 tips'''<br />
If you're stuck in "draw a box" mode, etc you can right click and hit "pick" to get your pointer back<br />
<br />
'''Load your Design'''<br />
<br />
The PC software has an import facility ('''file > import''') which seems to be happy taking AutoCAD 2004 DXF files and other formats. The workspace of the laser bed is represented as the workarea in the LaserCut software. If the import doesn't do what you want size-wise, you can select the whole image and then use the 'size' command from the drop down menu to set the dimension you want. Clicking on the three dots ... symbol will adjust the other axis in the same proportion (keeping the aspect ratio fixed). Selecting the 'centre on bed' option will locate your imported drawing on the centre of the machine's cutting bed.<br />
<br />
'''Prep'''<br />
<br />
Select all (mouse-drag around all, or ctrl-a) and Tools -> Unite Lines. You always want to do this. Without it, many things won't work (will take longer, you'll get gaps, it won't do inner-before-outer, etching areas won't work, etc).<br />
<br />
Make sure all your design fits within the bed. Even in immediate (relative) mode, you still need to do this.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Assign Settings to Colours'''<br />
<br />
Each part of your drawing that is assigned a different colour can have a different cut action assigned. Each colour will appear on the menu on the right hand side of the screen with numbers related to power and speed of the laser which will be used for the colour. <br />
<br />
The main options are to Cut (line) or Engrave (raster fill). A marking on the material is a Cut. For each material and cutting depth required, a corresponding speed and power must be entered. The handbook provided with the machine gives suggested values for various materials but these should be considered as a starting point for a test. See the '''Power and Speed Settings''' section for our guidelines and experiences for these settings.<br />
<br />
Parts are cut "inside out" within a colour, so if you have a hole cutout in a small piece you don't need to give this a separate colour.<br />
<br />
'''Download to the Cutter'''<br />
<br />
Your drawing will feature a blue dot which represents the starting point of the laser; this is by default on the top right corner (can be changed in the menu). In general, you will want to use "immediate" mode, which means this point represents wherever the laser is positioned when you start the job. You can also run the job in absolute mode by unchecking the box, making the job use absolute positioning on the workspace. <br />
<br />
To download, select Download and Download Current; the download option will by default call the file on the laser cutter 'LASER'.<br />
<br />
'''Set the Focus'''<br />
<br />
Before each job, the focus needs to be checked and set by adjusting the height of the bed, and thus the work piece, from the lens. The critical dimension here is 41mm and several gauges made of perspex will be left around the machine. This gauge needs to be a fit between the top surface of the material you intend to cut and the white plastic 'flap' on the lens piece. The height of the table is adjusted using the UP and DOWN buttons. Failure to set the distance correctly will result in an out of focus laser and much bigger (but lower powered) cut line. Always ensure there is clearance between the material and laser head before the head moves. <br />
<br />
'''Aligning and Testing the Job'''<br />
<br />
The cutter's menu will show the most recent downloaded file highlighted. Pressing the 'test' button will make the head travel along the square maximum extends of the cuts. This shows you that you have the material in the right place, and you have enough of it! You can do this repeatedly, moving the work piece by hand or the laser head using the arrow keys (after hitting ESC), until you are confident you have things where you want them.<br />
<br />
'''Cut the Job'''<br />
<br />
When happy with the location of the material, close the lid and press 'start' to start the cutter. Watch the head and at least at first be prepared to press the 'stop' button immediately if you find you are burning massive holes in your work piece! This goes back to doing some tests on a sample of your material and making sure you are happy with the cut speeds and power you have selected. You should stay near the cutter at all times and be prepared to pause it or stop it in the event of fire. <br />
<br />
<span style="color:red">'''DO NOT EVER LEAVE THE CUTTER UNATTENDED'''</span><br />
<br />
'''Finishing'''<br />
<br />
The end of the job is signified by a beep. Waiting a few moments for the exhaust pump to clear any remaining smoke is a good idea, especially with wood, and will limit the build up of smells in the rest of the workshop. Remove your work piece, ensuring that all parts are cleared from the bed of the machine.<br />
<br />
'''Power Down'''<br />
<br />
The cutter is turned off using the key switch, then the air filtering system with the green rocker switch. Shut down the PC and double check that everything is left in a safe state for the next user. <br />
<br />
'''Clean the bed of debris using the soft brush, then wipe down the bed using IPA and a cloth.'''<br />
<br />
If you have been cutting particularly 'dirty' materials, most notable MDF and Ply which leave a sticky residue then you will need to use the course side of one of the oven pads and lots of 'elbow grease'. Residue on the bed can impact the next persons' job so please make the effort to clean up and leave the cutter as you would wish to find it.<br />
<br />
Go away excited by what you can make and come back with lots more drawings!<br />
<br />
== Power and Speed Settings ==<br />
<br />
In due time we will try to build up a large sample stock of materials and record the values which work best. Here are the sample material tests we have so far:<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Laser-schmoo-3mm-acrylic.JPG|3mm Acrylic<br />
File:Laser-schmoo-10mm-acrylic.JPG|10mm Acrylic<br />
File:Laser-schmoo-9mm-mdf.JPG|9mm MDF (note: do not cut MDF - see above!)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Settings to get you started:<br />
*3mm Acrylic: Speed 12, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*5mm Acrylic: Speed 6, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*Acrylic shallow cut: Speed 30, power 50, corner power 50<br />
*Etching acrylic: Speed 400, Power 50, Spacing 0.05<br />
<br />
To make your own material test, a test grid can be downloaded here: [[Media:Test grid.zip]]<br />
<br />
*3mm Delrin: Speed 10, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*5mm Delrin: Speed 4, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
*6mm Delrin: speed 3, Power 100, Corner power 100<br />
<br />
== Tips & Tricks ==<br />
<br />
* If the laser cutter's user interface does not seem to respond/do what you want, hit "ESC" to return to 'normal mode'.<br />
* The opaque white acrylic needs slightly stronger settings for surface cuts as they are not as visible as in the transparent acrylic (i.e., for similar effect you need a deeper cut). Otherwise seems to cut equivalently to transparent acrylics.<br />
* If you want a tight fit of pieces or very accurate sizing, keep in mind that the laser beam has a width of just over 0.1 mm (maybe 0.11 or 0.12 mm). So all exterior cut lines should be offset by 0.05 mm; you can do this very easily in the LaserCutter Software with the "Offset" tool (units are in mm, so enter '0.05' and select 'Outer').<br />
* The DXF file format stores values only (not values and units). The internal units in the LaserCutter are in mm. If you set your document's units to mm in the exporting CAD system it should work fine, but generally it is a good idea to have a piece of geometry of known length, e.g. a line 100mm long, or a box of known size around your design. This makes adjusting the scaling a lot easier.<br />
* If you want to export a DXF from Inkscape (which is a great, free vector drawing package), then make sure you do "Object to path" from the Path menu for the whole object and then during the export stage, untick both options for type of export. Choose mm as your unit.<br />
* There's now a page to help with Inkscape and our laser at [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Inkscape]]<br />
* If the jog buttons (arrow keys moving the laser head around) are only moving the head in small single steps rather than moving it continuously, make sure that the jog step size is set to 0.0mm in the Jog Settings section of the menu.<br />
<br />
=== Material Usage ===<br />
You want to use as little material as possible to save money, we want you to use as little material as possible to reduce re-stocking burden and wastage.<br />
There's a neat tool you can use for packing SVG files into small spaces, find it here: http://svgnest.com/<br />
<br />
== Fixing up a job that went wrong ==<br />
<br />
If you messed up a job and, for example, some cut lines weren't cut, you might try to run the job again after recolouring all of the lines except the ones that didn't cut. You can then deselect those lines for output in the Cut/Engrave window on the top right of the Lasercut Interface, and this will keep your positioning.<br />
<br />
If your head has moved, you can try setting some lines to power 1, which should not cut anything, but allows you to see where the head is travelling.<br />
<br />
== Fixing strange issues ==<br />
<br />
''Jaws has a FAQ on the desktop of her PC, with more useful hints, tricks, and solutions.''<br />
<br />
* Etching doesn't work<br />
** Lines are not closed. LaserCut usually warns you about this. Ctrl-a to select all, then Tools->Unite Lines (0.001 should be fine).<br />
** Two copies on top of each other. Copies on top of each other "cancel out" any etching. Delete one copy.<br />
** Test with Menu->Laser->Simulate<br />
<br />
* LaserCut will not download to the laser cutter<br />
** Check laser cutter isn't in a paused state<br />
** Restart LaserCut on the PC. (We've not had any usb issues nor needed to restart the laser since upgrading the PC summer 2014).<br />
<br />
* Laser cuts things out 2+ times<br />
** Check you don't have two copies loaded on top of each other<br />
** Check it's not set to cut multiple times in LaserCut (this setting is right of the Cut/Engrave/Speed/Power settings)<br />
** Check the laser front panel says "001" at the bottom. If not, press right arrow until the number is highlighted, then down to adjust back to 1, then press return.<br />
<br />
* Laser will only cut at the top right of the bed<br />
** Download again with Immediate Mode ticked<br />
** On laser panel, press return (I think?) then right twice (should select the bottom left option), then press return (I think).<br />
<br />
*You Hit Emergency stop<br />
** E-M button needs twisting to re-activate<br />
** If that fails - check the circuit breaker inside. From the back of the machine, you want to open the lower flap on the left side, which should be unlocked. Near to the back, there is a breaker board. Flip the flippy bit.<br />
<br />
== Material Stock ==<br />
For the stock we hold, please see the [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter_Stock|Laser cutter stock]] page.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The maintenance of the Laser Cutter is carried out by the Owners, with some basic maintenance being carried out by Users on every job.<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Schedule ==<br />
<br />
Continuous Maintenance ('''Every job, done by all Laser Cutter Users''')<br />
* Clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth or Swarfega wipes<br />
* Clean any debris off laser bed and surround using soft brush<br />
<br />
Basic Maintenance (Every week, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)<br />
* Clean the laser lens with IPA and cotton buds<br />
* Oil the 3 runners with 3-in-one light oil <br />
* Thoroughly clean the laser bed with IPA and cloth<br />
* Check the water level in the cooling tank<br />
* Clean and remove debris from the machine base and catchment drawer<br />
<br />
Full Maintenance (Every 4 weeks, done by Laser Cutter Maintainers)<br />
* Check the water is clean in the cooling tank (i.e. no contamination/organic build up)<br />
* Check filter unit for filter renewal<br />
* Oil the 4 rise and fall lead screws with 3-in-one light oil<br />
* Check mirrors and clean with a disposable sachet lens cleaner cloth (only if needed, mirror coatings are delicate)<br />
* Work through mirror alignment procedure to check alignment of mirrors<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Log ==<br />
<br />
''For full log, see laser cutter wall sheet''<br />
<br />
For specific instructions and owner hints and tips see [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter/Owner_Tips|Owner Hints and Tricks]].<br />
<br />
'''Filter Changes'''<br />
* Jaws: 10 Feb to 22 June 2016, slightly under 5 months, and falling<br />
* Betsy: Freshest data currently in filter unit, gave up on 24th of June<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Reactive Maintenance'''<br />
* 15th Jan 2013, Simon Ford: Laser cutter not powering up, with switching on via key gives no activity whatsoever. No recollection of it cutting out during a job (Alexis), so assume it just stopped turning on at some point. Filter box and power sockets confirmed OK. Diagnosis: RCD in right back panel of Laser reset to off, no obvious reason why. Switching back on brought everything back to life OK.<br />
* 22nd, Simon Ford; 29th, Nicholas - same again.<br />
<br />
* Apr 2014, Mat Cook and Diana Probst: after previous changing of chiller water (Roger et al) the pump was complaining of lack of flow. Changed water and filtered, removed small blockage from rubber hose on laser tube.<br />
<br />
* 16 Apr 2014, Toby and Diana: changed laser tube, refilled chiller. Laser cutter fully working.<br />
<br />
* 25 Oct 2014, Mat and Diana mended lid spring brace. Cutter working fully.<br />
<br />
'''Regular Maintenance'''<br />
* Week Number, Date, Type, Owner (Notes)<br />
<br />
2013<br />
* January 7, Full, Chris @ HPCLaser'''<br />
* January 14, Basic, Simon Ford <br />
* January 21, Full, Simon Ford (running better than new :)'''<br />
* ...various maintenance events happened...<br />
* April 5th, Full, Simon Ford<br />
* July 1st, Full, David Barham (realigned mirrors)<br />
* July 15th, installed chiller<br />
<br />
2014<br />
* 16 Apr 2014, mirror alignment and optics checked after re-installation of tube. All fine. Toby and Diana.<br />
* 19 May 2014, mirrors cleaned, earthing wire on lid tightened. Diana (and Mat's screwdriver)<br />
* 21 May 2014, cleaned lens with Mat Cook. Diana<br />
* 02 Jun 2014, removed and cleaned laser bed<br />
* 14 Sep 2014, cleaned lens and mirrors, realigned. Diana and Brian Starkey<br />
<br />
* 30 Jun 2014 Fitted microswitches in series with the magnetic "lid closed" detector. <br />
* ??? 2014 "Jaws" Second laser cutter acquired<br />
* ??? 2014 Fitted microswitch to Jaws<br />
<br />
== Maintenance Shopping List ==<br />
<br />
* 3-in-one light oil <br />
* Cotton Buds<br />
* Lens cleaner sachets<br />
* Soft paint/cleaning brush<br />
* Thermometer for water tank<br />
* Hand held CO2 extinguisher<br />
<br />
= Further Information =<br />
<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser Product Page]<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=5&chapter=2 HPCLaser Technical Info]<br />
* [http://www.laserscript.co.uk/phpBB3/ Laserscript Forum]<br />
<br />
LaserCut 5.3<br />
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/35.html Homepage]<br />
* [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/LaserCut5.3%20Manual%20V1.6.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
[[BitmapLaserEngraving]]<br />
<br />
== Installation ==<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Laser_-_van.JPG<br />
File:Makespace-laser-install-02.JPG<br />
File:Laser_-_building_2.JPG<br />
File:Laser_-_building.JPG<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Purchase ==<br />
<br />
Full Purchase, Delivery and Installation (£6865.00+vat = £8238.00)<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=11 LS 6090 PRO Laser engraving and cutting machine, 600mm by 900mm 60W] (£5250.00+vat)<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34 Laser Fume Filter] (£1250.00+vat)<br />
* Delivery (£190+vat)<br />
* Installation/Training (£175+vat)<br />
<br />
== Repairs ==<br />
<br />
We expect to have to change the following parts for general maintenance:<br />
* The laser tube (guess every 6-12 months)<br />
* The filter (guess every 3-6 months)<br />
* The optics (guess every 6-12 months)<br />
<br />
Maintenance and Spares:<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3 60 watt C02 laser tube] (£275.00+vat)<br />
* [http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=12 50 mm Focus Meniscus Lens] (£75.00+vat)<br />
* Estimate for Call Out (£200.00)</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/EquipmentEquipment2018-06-21T20:01:30Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]<br />
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]<br />
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]<br />
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]<br />
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]<br />
<br />
The equipment you can find in Makespace.<br />
<br />
== Using our Equipment ==<br />
<br />
There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.<br />
<br />
Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Online payment system]].<br />
<br />
[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.<br />
<br />
Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.<br />
<br />
'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].<br />
<br />
== The Workshop ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Router|Hand-held Plunge Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]]<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]] (Currently no training available)<br />
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterScrollSaw|Scroll Saw]]<br />
* [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Tool Box]<br />
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]]<br />
<br />
== The Space ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer_SLA|3D Printer (SLA)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]<br />
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]<br />
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]<br />
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]<br />
<br />
== Craft area ==<br />
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
* large table for cutting or working at<br />
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]<br />
* PC with basic image-editing software (Inkscape, GIMP), scanner and link to Vinyl cutter<br />
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]<br />
<br />
== Classroom ==<br />
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]<br />
== Corridor Cupboards ==<br />
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]<br />
<br />
== Proposals and Notes ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]<br />
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Scanner|3D Scanner]]<br />
<br />
== Related ==<br />
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].<br />
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.<br />
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.<br />
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/EquipmentEquipment2018-06-21T19:59:04Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]<br />
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]<br />
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]<br />
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]<br />
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]<br />
<br />
The equipment you can find in Makespace.<br />
<br />
== Using our Equipment ==<br />
<br />
There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.<br />
<br />
Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Online payment system]].<br />
<br />
[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.<br />
<br />
Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.<br />
<br />
'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].<br />
<br />
== The Workshop ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Router|Hand-held Plunge Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]]<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]] (Currently no training available)<br />
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterScrollSaw|Scroll Saw]]<br />
* [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Tool Box]<br />
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]] (Currently out of operation)<br />
<br />
== The Space ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer_SLA|3D Printer (SLA)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]<br />
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]<br />
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]<br />
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]<br />
<br />
== Craft area ==<br />
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
* large table for cutting or working at<br />
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]<br />
* PC with basic image-editing software (Inkscape, GIMP), scanner and link to Vinyl cutter<br />
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]<br />
<br />
== Classroom ==<br />
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]<br />
== Corridor Cupboards ==<br />
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]<br />
<br />
== Proposals and Notes ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]<br />
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Scanner|3D Scanner]]<br />
<br />
== Related ==<br />
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].<br />
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.<br />
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.<br />
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/EquipmentEquipment2018-06-21T19:57:45Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]<br />
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]<br />
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]<br />
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]<br />
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]<br />
<br />
The equipment you can find in Makespace.<br />
<br />
== Using our Equipment ==<br />
<br />
There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.<br />
<br />
Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Online payment system]].<br />
<br />
[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.<br />
<br />
Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.<br />
<br />
'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].<br />
<br />
== The Workshop ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Router|Hand-held Plunge Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]]<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]] (Currently no training available)<br />
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterScrollSaw|Scroll Saw]]<br />
* [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Tool Box]<br />
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]] (Currently out of operation)<br />
<br />
== The Space ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer_SLA|3D Printer (SLA)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]<br />
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]<br />
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]<br />
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]<br />
<br />
== Craft area ==<br />
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
* large table for cutting or working at<br />
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]<br />
* PC with basic image-editing software (Inkscape, GIMP), scanner and link to Vinyl cutter<br />
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]<br />
<br />
== Classroom ==<br />
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]<br />
== Corridor Cupboards ==<br />
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]<br />
<br />
== Proposals and Notes ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]<br />
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Scanner|3D Scanner]]<br />
<br />
== Related ==<br />
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].<br />
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.<br />
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.<br />
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/AxminsterScrollSawEquipment/AxminsterScrollSaw2018-06-21T19:49:27Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{OrangeTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Scroll Saw<br />
<br />
[[File:ScrollSaw.jpg|thumb|460px|right|Axminster Scroll Saw]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
A scroll saw is a small electric saw that is useful for cutting intricate curves in cases where a jigsaw or coping saw is not appropriate. It is capable of creating curves with edges. It is somewhat similar to a band saw, but unlike band saws, in which the saw blade is a continuous loop, scroll saws use saw blades similar to those of coping saws and operate through a quick reciprocating up and down motion.<br />
<br />
A scroll saw has two main advantages when compared to a band saw. The first is that the blade can be removed and placed in situ through a pre-drilled starting hole. This feature allows interior cut-outs to be made without creating an entry slot for the blade through the edge of the workpiece. Second, a scroll saw can cut significantly more intricate curves.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
* Michael Dales<br />
<br />
== Health and Safety ==<br />
'''Sharp Object/material''' <br />
* Power supply to be disconnected when changing Blades. <br />
* Wait for the blade to stop moving before attempting any adjustments.<br />
<br />
'''Slips, Trips and Falls''' <br />
* Waste material/offcuts to be kept clear of work area.<br />
<br />
'''Fire'''<br />
* Equipment will be checked for defects before each use to minimise the risk of possible electrical faults or fire. <br />
* Carbon Dioxide extinguisher to be available for any electrical fires <br />
<br />
'''Electric shock''' <br />
* The equipment will be checked before each use to ensure that there are no defects in the casing, battery or cutting head. <br />
<br />
'''Sight/Noise/Dust/Vibration'''<br />
* P.P.E. to be worn when using the equipment. <br />
* Regular brakes to be taken to prevent fingers becoming numb <br />
<br />
'''Repetitive Action/Physical Fatigue''' <br />
* Regular breaks to be taken if work is lasting more than 5 minutes in duration<br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
No mandatory training is required to use this tool.<br />
<br />
Optional training will be available in the near future.<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
The scroll saw is a relatively safe tool to use. if you've never used one, here is a quick introduction [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TU3V3MdkaJg video]<br />
<br />
For detailed instructions se the manual or the saw [http://makespace.org/wiki/index.php/File:AWFS18_manual.pdf Scroll Saw Manual]<br />
<br />
Because of the thin blade, using a scroll saw needs a delicate touch. If you push too hard, you will all too easily snap the blade. To cut a curved shape, feed the work with both hands, holding the wood flat against the saw's base while applying gentle forward pressure. The key is patience. Allow the work to feed through the saw blade slowly, without forcing it. If you begin to feel a greater level of resistance this will probably be due to a blunt blade.<br />
<br />
A common mistake is to accidentally exert sideward pressure while feeding the wood through. If this begins to happen, relax the pressure on the wood by lessening the fingertip pressure. However, do not let go of the wood, just relax the pressure.<br />
<br />
===Blade Selection===<br />
<br />
[[Image:ScrollSawBlades.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
Scroll saw blade sizes typically range from 1 to 12. Each blade size is designed to be used with different thicknesses of wood. The smaller the blade you can pick, the easier it is to cut delicate curves. The rough selection is as follows:<br />
<br />
Scroll Blades (Shown on the left) are recommended for cutting thicker and harder material.<br />
<br />
Spiral Blades (Shown 2nd from the left) blades are twisted so teeth point outward in every direction. A 360° capacity allows cutting in any direction without turning your work.<br />
<br />
Reverse Blades (Shown 2nd from right) Teeth are pointed in both directions to give splinter free cutting on the top and bottom.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
!|Blade size <br />
!|Hardwood thickness <br />
!|Softwood Thickness <br />
|-<br />
|1 to 2 <br />
|1/4" <br />
|1/4" <br />
|-<br />
|3 to 4 <br />
|1/2" <br />
|3/4" <br />
|-<br />
|5 to 6 <br />
|1/4" to 3/4" <br />
|1/4" to 1" <br />
|-<br />
|7 to 9 <br />
|1/4" to 1" <br />
|1/4" to 2" <br />
|-<br />
|10 to 12 <br />
|3/4" to 2" <br />
|3/4" to 2" <br />
|}<br />
<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEMe8meAOSw Choosing the Right Blade for Your Scroll Saw (Video)]<br />
<br />
===Technical Specification===<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|Cuts per Minute <br />
|400-1,400 <br />
|-<br />
|Max Depth of Cut <br />
|65mm <br />
|- <br />
|Net Weight <br />
|29kg <br />
|- <br />
|Overall L x W x H <br />
|620 x 285 x 310mm <br />
|- <br />
|Power <br />
|120W <br />
|- <br />
|Rating <br />
|Trade <br />
|- <br />
|Stroke <br />
|10 & 20mm <br />
|- <br />
|Table Size <br />
|460 x 235mm <br />
|- <br />
|Table Tilt <br />
|0-45° <br />
|- <br />
|Throat <br />
|460mm(18") <br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Tips & Tricks ==<br />
<br />
* You must guide the wood into the blade SLOWLY, because the teeth are very small, and cut ONLY on the down stroke. If you push the wood into the blade too rapidly, you can easily break the blade.<br />
* The teeth on the blade will wear out sooner or later. The blade must therefore be replaced often to obtain the best cutting results. A blade will stay sharp for half an hour to 2 hours of continuous running, depending on the material being cut.<br />
* Be aware that the blade has a tendency to follow the grain of the wood. You can compensate for this by watching the grain carefully and guiding the wood past the saw blade.<br />
* There is a jig and guide on the near right hand side of the bed to help you mount a blade in the bits. See picture to show where. [[File:scrollclamp.jpg|right|frame|Blade mounting jig on scroll saw]]<br />
<br />
== Maintenance ==<br />
Every month inspect for damage and general wear and tear and asses state of stock blades and replace as needed.<br />
<br />
Replacement blades [http://www.axminster.co.uk/pegas-scroll-saw-blade-mixed-pack-prod878221/ Scroll Saw Blade Mixed Pack (60 blades)] £15<br />
<br />
== Further Information ==<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TU3V3MdkaJg Introduction to using a scroll saw (video)]<br />
<br />
[http://makespace.org/wiki/index.php/File:AWFS18_manual.pdf Scroll Saw Manual]</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/File:WarcoLathe.jpgFile:WarcoLathe.jpg2018-06-21T19:36:39Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-06-21T19:36:04Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:WarcoLathe.jpg|right|frame|Our Warco lathe]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Training Notes for the Warco GH1330 Lathe Part 1<br />
Safety.<br />
A lathe is potentially one of the most dangerous machines in a workshop, however if correctly used it is extremely safe.<br />
It is you that makes the difference.<br />
<br />
Always make sure of two things when using a lathe:<br />
1. That the work area is safe, there is nothing lying on the lathe that shouldn’t be, especially the chuck key, more on that later. Ensure that your work is held firmly in the chuck, also check before starting the lathe that the feed drives are not engaged that the chuck will not collide with any tools.<br />
2. You have nothing on you that can get caught in the mechanism of the lathe, beware of lose clothing, long sleeves, jewellery and especially long hair. All of these are a total No-no. Whilst eye protection is mandatory do not wear anything that will impair your hearing – if you listen to the lathe while it cuts the lathe will tell you how well you are doing.<br />
Getting to know your lathe<br />
Parts of your lathe – your trainer will demonstrate the function of each part<br />
[[File:LatheParts.png|right|frame|Parts list]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Setting up your lathe<br />
Switch on the wall and the e-stop released, the power light comes on. If you power up with the forward/back lever in the run position you have to go to neutral first then re-select.<br />
<br />
Checking the lathe.<br />
Do a visual check to see that your work area is free from items that could fall into the lathe or become entangled in the lathe.<br />
Lubrication/oil checks. There are three oil windows which should have oil halfway up the glass. <br />
If they do not this is a major panic but report it to management. There are sight glasses for spindle gearbox, lower gear box (lead screw), and carriage.<br />
<br />
<br />
Select Speed. Spindle MUST be stationary. They are crash gears with no concept of synchromesh, so the spindle has to be stopped entirely. Nudge chuck by hand until meshing happens. The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
<br />
Preparing the job<br />
The 3 Jaw Chuck <br />
The main chuck is 3-jaw chuck. We also have a 4-jaw chuck, which is used for irregular shaped items.<br />
Always leave the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe when done, some people cannot mount and de-mount the 4-jaw safely as it is very heavy. <br />
<br />
Phase 2 of the training covers changing chucks.<br />
<br />
One of the most dangerous things that you can do on a lathe is to leave the chuck key in the chuck<br />
Now place your job in the lathe. <br />
Cutting tools should all be set for centre height <br />
<br />
Place the bar centrally into chuck, tighten up nicely. The first job is usually facing off, getting the manky end square. <br />
Get a good end to start from.<br />
Tools should all be set for centre height. Drop-in and tighten should give you the correct height, but it's best to check. Big spanner to loosen quick-change tool to rotate it. You can re-align it by coming up to chuck, which is the best square. Loosen off, bring up to chuck, and tighten. The spring washer stops the nut vibrating. A little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
<br />
Centering is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Make sure all is tight there. Usually only displace/swing for taper turning. <br />
Don't use it for fine feeds - the DRO does not follow it.<br />
<br />
Starting your lathe<br />
The guard must be closed to start system.<br />
Starting on right-hand handle. <br />
Rock to right and down for forwards. Knock it up to coast to a stop. Faster stop is foot pedal. <br />
<br />
Emergency Stop Foot Pedal<br />
Slight touch switches the motor off and further push engages brake drum and stops it dead. The emergency brake should not be used for normal stops as it wears the brake.<br />
<br />
Cutting tools <br />
May be right and left-hand. If cutting back into a shoulder you'll want a left-hand. <br />
Feed in gently so it doesn't dig. The faces of the quick-change tool are at right angles, so you can bore. <br />
• High speed steel tools give a finer finish but generally require more maintenance – left of picture<br />
• Carbide tipped tools cannot have the cutting edges changed – centre of picture<br />
• Carbide insert tools are designed for toughness, and not surface finish – right of picture<br />
<br />
Quick Change Tool<br />
The big spanner is used to loosen the quick-change tool and rotate it. You can re-align it by bringing it up to the chuck and checking it is square to it and tighten it again. <br />
• The tool holders are drop-in and tighten type and normally give you the correct height, but it's best to check <br />
• Being square is absolutely vital with parting-off tools. Again, make sure all is tight here. <br />
• Usually, you would only displace/swing the head for taper turning, see training part 2.<br />
• Don't use it for fine feeds - the Digital Read Out does not follow it. The DRO is covered in part 2<br />
Cutting Notes<br />
• Square inserts are for heavy rough cuts and don't go right up to a shoulder. <br />
• Chamfer bits exist, and so do thread cutting bits, as do internal/external cutting bits. More on part 2 of the course. <br />
• Chamfer bits are better when re-angling end of your work<br />
• The tools that are along the back of the lathe should be kept there <br />
• Replacing tools means you will have to adjust the height nut on each cutting tool. Lock and then re-test. Spring washer stops the nut vibrating. Tighten a little beyond humans doing finger tight.<br />
• All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter, until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
• Plan to cut slightly larger than your final cut and measure prior to cutting the last cut and do a very fine cut.<br />
<br />
Dead Stop <br />
Is used to prevent you driving the cutting tool and its mounting into the rotating chuck, which is another big No-No in lathe working and it will send you back to retraining, if the lathe is still working that is. <br />
Adjustable with dial. It is used whilst hand-feeding only.<br />
<br />
Lubrication<br />
You may use the built-in pump system which can be messy or the hand pump oil can that lives with the lathe.<br />
Cross cut (end or face cutting)<br />
<br />
Face Cutting is done by cutting across the end of the metal and using the cross feed which is calibrated in DIAMETER. 5 mm is a .25mm infeed. <br />
Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Long cut (turning)<br />
Turning is done by cutting down the rounded side of the metal and using the longitudinal wheel. Your instructor will demonstrate a cut to you then you can do one, try both a manual cut and then a power feed one.<br />
Always plan to get your penultimate cut an extremely small amount short of your final cut, this way your final cut will be extremely fine and be smoother. Carbide inserts are designed for toughness, and not surface finish.<br />
All tools have a tiny radius at the end, so if you are cutting up to a shoulder you can either undercut a little and sink the radius in, or you can undercut the shank. A lot of times it doesn't matter........until you need to fit a bearing.<br />
<br />
Always be careful that you do not drive the cutting tool into the moving chuck, particularly when using the power feed.<br />
Tail Stock<br />
Centring tool <br />
• Lock off slide and advance with longer handle at the rear. <br />
• Tools vary, so leave plenty of room. <br />
<br />
The lever-action drill head is for smaller drill bits, and gives you some feel of how the cut is going.<br />
Power feed. <br />
• Take the tool well clear of the work and make sure the lathe is working correctly before you start to cut<br />
• Check you have set the correct direction<br />
• It’s always better to run slower and a better surface usually results.<br />
• Cross feed or transverse-feed drive is selectable, but only one at a time.<br />
<br />
Evaluation<br />
Demonstrate that you understand the following:<br />
• All matters safety related<br />
• How to start up the lathe<br />
• How to chose the correct speed for the job and how to select the speed on the gearbox<br />
• Mount a job in the 3-jaw chuck and use of the safety cover<br />
• How to set up the quick release tool spindle with the tool and set the correct angle <br />
• Demonstrate an understanding of the different types of cutting tolls and when you would use them<br />
• Demonstrate how to set up the poser feed and run it<br />
• Explain what boring is and the difficulties it presents<br />
• Set up the dead stop and the emergence stop foot pedal and show how they work<br />
• Explain the difference between the calibration on the apron and the cross slide<br />
• Show how to use the tailstock and centering tool to drill a hole into the end of a job<br />
Shutdown at end of work.<br />
Hit e-stop and then turn off at wall.<br />
Cleaning: leave it clean! <br />
Take work out, replace all the bits you may have changed/removed, brush stuff off the swarf from slides and other surfaces with the paintbrush and swarf. Brush it down to the collecting tray below, which can then be pulled out and emptied. <br />
For clearing up gloves are mandatory. <br />
Swarf is razor sharp and can go septic if it gets under your skin. <br />
Gloves are kept in the blue bin just outside the secure workshop door<br />
<br />
Alaric Worrod 2018-05-31<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Alaric Worrod<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Training_Notes_Warco_Lathe_Part1_2018-06-04a.docx]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/File:LatheParts.pngFile:LatheParts.png2018-06-21T19:29:33Z<p>RobCopcutt: List of parts</p>
<hr />
<div>List of parts</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/EquipmentEquipment2018-06-21T19:01:10Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* The Workshop */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]<br />
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]<br />
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]<br />
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]<br />
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]<br />
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]<br />
<br />
The equipment you can find in Makespace.<br />
<br />
== Using our Equipment ==<br />
<br />
There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.<br />
<br />
Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Honesty boxes]].<br />
<br />
[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.<br />
<br />
Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.<br />
<br />
'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].<br />
<br />
== The Workshop ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Router|Hand-held Plunge Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]]<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterScrollSaw|Scroll Saw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]]<br />
<br />
== The Space ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer_SLA|3D Printer (SLA)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill|PCB Mill]]<br />
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]<br />
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
* General Tools<br />
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]<br />
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]<br />
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Computer_CAD_Workstation|CAD Workstation]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]<br />
<br />
== Craft area ==<br />
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
* large table for cutting or working at<br />
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]<br />
* PC with basic image-editing software (Inkscape, GIMP), scanner and link to Vinyl cutter<br />
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]<br />
<br />
== Classroom ==<br />
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]<br />
== Corridor Cupboards ==<br />
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]<br />
<br />
== Proposals and Notes ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]<br />
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Scanner|3D Scanner]]<br />
<br />
== Related ==<br />
* [[OwnersPage|List of owners and their duties]]<br />
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].<br />
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.<br />
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.<br />
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/EquipmentEquipment2018-06-21T19:00:26Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* The Workshop */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]<br />
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]<br />
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]<br />
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]<br />
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]<br />
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]<br />
<br />
The equipment you can find in Makespace.<br />
<br />
== Using our Equipment ==<br />
<br />
There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.<br />
<br />
Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Honesty boxes]].<br />
<br />
[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.<br />
<br />
Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.<br />
<br />
'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].<br />
<br />
== The Workshop ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Router|Hand-held Plunge Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Warco Lathe]]<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterScrollSaw|Scroll Saw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]]<br />
<br />
== The Space ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer_SLA|3D Printer (SLA)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill|PCB Mill]]<br />
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]<br />
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
* General Tools<br />
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]<br />
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]<br />
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Computer_CAD_Workstation|CAD Workstation]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]<br />
<br />
== Craft area ==<br />
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
* large table for cutting or working at<br />
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]<br />
* PC with basic image-editing software (Inkscape, GIMP), scanner and link to Vinyl cutter<br />
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Leather_Kit|Leather Kit]]<br />
<br />
== Classroom ==<br />
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]<br />
== Corridor Cupboards ==<br />
* [[Arduino_and_Cake/Big_Box|Arduino/Raspberry Pi Accessories]]<br />
<br />
== Proposals and Notes ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]<br />
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Scanner|3D Scanner]]<br />
<br />
== Related ==<br />
* [[OwnersPage|List of owners and their duties]]<br />
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].<br />
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.<br />
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.<br />
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/LatheEquipment/Lathe2018-06-21T01:40:55Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Summary */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:Myford.jpg|thumb|420px|right|Our Myford super 7]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
Makespace has sold its Myford super 7 lathe so we only have the Warco lathe available.<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe.<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
There is a book, "Myford series 7 manual", by Ian Bradley available in the workshop (please do not remove it). We also have a Lathe safety manual from the CRC. These provide a comprehensive guide to using the Myford. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at these publications - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
Photo-list of current [[Equipment/Lathe/Accessories|lathe accessories]].<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Accessories/accessories.htm<br />
<br />
= Lathe Inserts (replaceable cutting tips) = <br />
There are selection of replaceable cutting inserts for the lathes. Replaceable inserts reduce the need sharpening and grinding of custom tools. They can be purchased from:<br />
<br />
http://www.glanze.co.uk/acatalog/Replacement_Inserts___Spares.html (please feel free to list other sources)<br />
<br />
<br />
The list below is provided as a guide if anyone needs to purchase replacements.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Supplier<br />
! Supplier Part Number<br />
! Description<br />
! Cost<br />
! Comments<br />
|-<br />
| Glanze.co.uk<br />
| CGGSP<br />
| 2 mm Parting Insert <br />
| £4.55<br />
| (Inc. VAT Sold Individually)<br />
|-<br />
| Glanze.co.uk<br />
| CCMT060204S.<br />
|<br />
| £2.30<br />
| (Inc. VAT Each when purchased in Box of 10)<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Glanze.co.uk<br />
| DCGT <br />
| <br />
| £2.40<br />
| (Inc. VAT Each when purchased in Box of 10)<br />
|}</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-05-29T02:19:23Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Some recommended videos */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Joe Pieczynski is extremely knowledgeable and has made many videos. Here is one about the optimum chip for high speed cutting.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12YShfHSaYs<br />
<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2018-05-29T02:13:15Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
<br />
== Tools Available ==<br />
<br />
<br />
There are a number of 250-201 tool holders which fit on the quick change tool post.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Tool<br />
! Description<br />
! Steel Insert<br />
! Aluminium/Plastic Insert<br />
|-<br />
| SSSCR1/2"-3<br />
| Neutral 45° end and side cutting edge angle for positive 45° SCMT inserts.<br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SSBCR1/2"-3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SWGCR1/2"-3<br />
| Right hand 90 degree end or side cutting edge angle for 80 degree WCGX insert<br />
| WCGX<br />
| WCRX<br />
|-<br />
| SWUCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| WNMG 060404<br />
|-<br />
| SER1/2"-11<br />
| External threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| S1/2J-SIR11<br />
| Internal threading tool<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| MGEHR1/2"-02<br />
| Cut off tool<br />
| MGMN<br />
| MGGN<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSKCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| S-SSSCR3/8"J3<br />
| <br />
| SCMT 09T3<br />
| SCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCR1212F09<br />
| Right?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SCLCL1212F09<br />
| Left?<br />
| CCMT 09T3<br />
| CCGT 09T3<br />
|-<br />
| SRDCN 1616h 08<br />
| Radius lathe tool (property of Robert K.)<br />
| RCMT 0803<br />
| RCGT 0803<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| Knurling tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|-<br />
| n/a<br />
| HSS Cut off tool<br />
| n/a<br />
| n/a<br />
|}<br />
<br />
More info: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/learn-the-turning-tool-iso-code-system<br />
<br />
= Some recommended videos =<br />
<br />
Reversed cut-off tool trick.<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZRq0olsxM</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Things_and_stuffThings and stuff2017-08-07T22:53:53Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>For larger items, see the [[Equipment]] page.<br />
<br />
This page is to help you to find smaller items, and to help you to put them back in the right place so others can find them. (Use the in-page search in your browser.)<br />
<br />
Some items have extra names in brackets after their usual name; please include all names that people might use to search for a particular item.<br />
<br />
==The corridor==<br />
<br />
* Badger<br />
* Showcase<br />
* Cupboards including Arduinos, personal laser stock, Family Makers supplies<br />
* Lost property<br />
* [[Infrastructure/Member Personal Storage|Personal storage boxes]]<br />
<br />
==The classroom==<br />
<br />
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Classroom/Seating|Stacking chairs]]<br />
* Folding tables<br />
* Non-stacking, non-folding sofas<br />
<br />
==Main space==<br />
<br />
{|<br />
|+ Main Space<br />
|-<br />
! South<br />
! aisle<br />
! Central<br />
! aisle<br />
! North<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| Windowsill<br />
| Door from corridor<br />
| Windowsill with landline phone<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]<br />
[[File:Glassworking.jpg]]<br />
* Kiln<br />
* Torch<br />
| [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
[[File:Vacuum-former.jpg]]<br />
* Bike repair stuff is usually under this table<br />
|<br />
| Wire and components<br />
* Capacitors<br />
* Resistors<br />
* 74nn ICs (7400 series)<br />
* Wire<br />
| Electronics workbench<br />
* Insulating tape<br />
* Wire strippers<br />
* Pliers<br />
* Needle files<br />
* Screwdrivers<br />
|-<br />
| [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench | Fine metalwork bench]]<br />
[[File:Fine-metalwork-bench.jpg]]<br />
* Dustbuster (small vacuum cleaner)<br />
* Flexible shaft tool<br />
* Scriber<br />
* Centre punch<br />
* Digital calipers (micrometer)<br />
* Flat Stake<br />
* Round triblet (for forming rings and suchlike)<br />
* Planishing Hammer (a polished-surface hammer for surface finishing and work-hardening)<br />
* Rawhide mallet (for hitting things without marking the surface)<br />
* Generic ball-pean hammer (a non-polished hammer for hitting punches etc.)<br />
|<br />
| Table<br />
|<br />
| Electronics workbench<br />
[[File:Electronics-workbenches.jpg]]<br />
On shelves:<br />
* BNC connectors, aerial connectors<br />
* More wire<br />
* Screwdrives, small pliers, etc<br />
* Stripboard<br />
* Solder suckers<br />
* Voltmeters<br />
* Soldering iron tips<br />
* PSUs (Power Supply Units)<br />
* Breadboards<br />
|-<br />
| Laser cutter stock<br />
[[File:Laser-stock.jpg]]<br />
* A grid of squares for measuring how much you've used (for the honesty box) is hung on the left-hand side of this<br />
|<br />
| Table<br />
[[File:White-table.jpg]]<br />
|<br />
| [[Equipment/Plotter|HP 750C A0 Plotter]]<br />
[[File:Plotter.jpg]]<br />
|-<br />
| Laser cutter computer<br />
[[File:Betsy-desk.jpg]]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| Ultimaker [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]<br />
[[File:Ultimaker.jpg]]<br />
|-<br />
| [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Betsy.jpg]]<br />
| Laser cutter computer<br />
[[File:Jaws-computer.jpg]]<br />
* Swarfega wipes<br />
| [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Jaws.jpg]]<br />
|<br />
| Makerbot<br />
[[File:Makerbot.jpg]]<br />
* Printer thread<br />
|-<br />
| Formlabs 3D printer<br />
[[File:Formlabs.jpg]]<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
[[File:Roland-mill.jpg]]<br />
* Plates for model mill<br />
|-<br />
| Formlabs desk<br />
[[File:Chargers.jpg]]<br />
* Automatic plant watering system<br />
* AA (etc) battery chargers<br />
|<br />
| Table<br />
|<br />
| Sink area<br />
[[File:Sink-area.jpg]]<br />
* First aid kit<br />
* Eye washout kit<br />
* Torch<br />
* Cleaning cloths<br />
* Liquid soap<br />
* Swarfega<br />
* Fly spray (insecticide)<br />
* Watering can<br />
* Plant food (Baby Bio)<br />
|-<br />
| Desks<br />
[[File:Assorted-desk.jpg]]<br />
|<br />
| Table<br />
|<br />
| [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting area]]<br />
[[File:Screen-printing-area.jpg]]<br />
* Screen printing equipment<br />
* Drying racks<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| Table<br />
[[File:Big-table.jpg]]<br />
<br />
General hacking area<br />
<br />
* Mains sockets<br />
* USB chargers<br />
|<br />
| Door to workshop<br />
|-<br />
| [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]<br />
[[File:Laser-printers.jpg]]<br />
* Paper<br />
* Stationery including pens, sellotape, whiteboard pens<br />
* CAT-5?<br />
|<br />
| Table<br />
|<br />
| Big shelves<br />
[[File:Deep-shelves.jpg]]<br />
* PPE (goggles, ear protectors, dustmasks)<br />
* PAT testing queue<br />
* Duct tape<br />
* Mains extension reels<br />
* PVA<br />
* Hot air guns (paint strippers)<br />
* Tape measures<br />
|-<br />
| Stair landing to kitchen<br />
| Stairs to kitchen<br />
| Plants and flat storage<br />
* Crimping tools<br />
* Craft knives<br />
* Cable ties<br />
* Rawlplugs<br />
* Watch batteries / button cells<br />
| Fire exit / door to big bins<br />
| Wood offcuts for recycling<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==The workshop==<br />
<br />
===West side===<br />
<br />
On the left as you go in:<br />
<br />
* Springs<br />
* Nuts and bolts, machine screws<br />
* Flat pencils<br />
* G-clamps<br />
* Battery charger for cordless tools<br />
* Vacuum cleaner (Henry)<br />
* Fretsaw<br />
* Chemicals cupboard (below worksurface): contains isopropyl alcohol for cleaning<br />
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
<br />
===Central island===<br />
<br />
* Steel rules, rulers, straight edges<br />
* Set squares<br />
* Spirit level<br />
<br />
In their own boxes under table:<br />
<br />
* Cordless drill<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* Jigsaw<br />
<br />
===East side===<br />
<br />
On the right as you go in:<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe - Myford]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]<br />
* Clamps<br />
* Pop rivets and rivet tool<br />
* Small nuts and bolts<br />
* Drill bits<br />
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]]<br />
<br />
In storage bins:<br />
* Files<br />
* Screwdrivers<br />
* Allen keys (Hex keys)<br />
* Torx keys (Star screwdrivers)<br />
<br />
Hand tools on shadowboard:<br />
* Hammers<br />
* Hacksaws<br />
* Pliers<br />
<br />
==The treasure trove==<br />
<br />
=== Wall nearest door ===<br />
<br />
* Old disk drives including floppy drives<br />
<br />
=== Near side of central shelves ===<br />
<br />
* Old audio / video stuff you could rebuild for something<br />
* Personal supplies of flat stuff that is too big for elsewhere<br />
* Old "tower" computer cases<br />
<br />
=== Far side of central shelves ===<br />
<br />
* Electrical cables selection<br />
* Bits of cameras<br />
* Computer (ATX?) PSUs<br />
<br />
=== Far shelves ===<br />
<br />
* Mains power supplies of many kinds<br />
* Fans<br />
* Capacitors<br />
* Resistors<br />
<br />
=== Unclassified location ===<br />
<br />
* Various electrical connections and fittings<br />
* Multi-way mains extensions<br />
* Nabaztags (electric rabbits)<br />
* Just about anything for repurposing<br />
<br />
==The kitchen (Cakespace)==<br />
<br />
* Kettle<br />
* Oven<br />
* Microwave<br />
* Drinks<br />
* Snacks<br />
* Liquid soap<br />
* Cleaning materials<br />
* Bin bags<br />
<br />
==Craft Room==<br />
<br />
* Vinyl cutter<br />
* Vinyl cutter stock<br />
* Eggbot<br />
* Knitting machine<br />
* Sewing machines<br />
* Thread<br />
* T-shirt press<br />
* Crafting table<br />
<br />
==Unknown location==<br />
<br />
If you know where the things in this section are, please move their names to the appropriate section.</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2017-06-19T00:27:54Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Trained user list */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
The training script is available [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Jei2wuluk728dv71LJ4BJGIson9IU74uLyVKNtf9-tE/edit?usp=sharing here].<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Owner - Diana Probst<br />
* Owner - Jonathan Waite<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler<br />
* Josh Simpson<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Vincent Sanders<br />
* Mat Greenwood<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Tim Lowsen<br />
* Owen Woods<br />
* Eric Jones<br />
* Martin Lenz<br />
* Adrian Van den Heever<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* David Grech<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Kevin Rathbone<br />
* Rob Voisey<br />
* Al Napp<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Milosz Wasilewski<br />
* John Sidinopoulos<br />
* Alex Gee<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Andy McDonald<br />
* Eric Gowland<br />
* Steve Osbourne<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Geoff Lunn<br />
* Daniel Farrant<br />
* Kristien De Clercq<br />
* Ian McFarlane<br />
* Adam Nightingale<br />
* Zizwani Mhango<br />
* Luke Twydell<br />
* Ed Robertson<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Patrick Riggs<br />
* Charlotte Harvey<br />
* Robin Sterling<br />
* Nicola Westgarth-Flynn<br />
* Phill Banks<br />
* Hugo Keene<br />
* Giovanni Bisutti<br />
* Andrew Cooke<br />
* Daniel Bailey<br />
* Andrea Cipri<br />
* Stephen Harrison<br />
* Craig Easton<br />
* Henry Begg<br />
* Steve Murphy<br />
* Steve Carey<br />
* Jeremy Minton - 17/05/16 JPW<br />
* Jeremy Bentham - 17/05/16 JPW<br />
* Toby Roberts - 17/05/16 JPW<br />
* Thomas Gillespie - 17/05/16 JPW<br />
* Cong Cong Bo - 28/09/16 DP<br />
* Mayke Santos - 28/09/16 DP<br />
* David Haines - 28/09/16 DP<br />
* Sean Jennings<br />
* Simon Marache-Francisco<br />
* Rob Sandford<br />
* Carlos Araque</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/User:RobCopcuttUser:RobCopcutt2017-06-18T21:24:33Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:RobCopcutt_Mugshot.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== MakeSpace projects ==<br />
My main project at Makespace is Visventis.org[http://visventis.org]. Initially the kite will be manually piloted which means its main application will be areas of the world where labour is cheap. The device is designed to be easy to build so those with limited facilities can make much of their own generator themselves. The total cost should be similar to (or less than) that of a diesel generator of equivalent power (2 to 5kW). If salaries are lower than the cost of diesel then flying the kite will be a worthwhile occupation. Over time the plan is to increasingly automate the system.<br />
<br />
Visventis needs a generator. We could use a commercial one, but I have a design for a motor/generator that should cost less and be more efficient. This project should be of interest to those wanting to make electric bicycles, bikes and cars.<br />
<br />
Motor/generator control electronics. Visventis needs to control the tension on the tethers during the generating and rewinding phases. Computer controlled electronics are therefore needed to regulate the direction and magnitude of the current flowing between the electric machine and the battery. Again, this overlaps with the interests of those wanting electric vehicles.<br />
<br />
Gaussmeter. Optimising the electric machine requires knowledge of the strength of the magnetic field. Gaussmeters are expensive but the hall effect sensors are cheap. A DIY gaussmeter would be a great project.<br />
<br />
Another workshop idea is make your own custom earplugs and earphones.<br />
<br />
== Work ==<br />
I am writing a book about transforming to a world where renewable energy powers everything. One of the common excuses is that renewable energy is too expensive. It is urgent that we prove that it could be cheaper than fossil fuels. Another is that power from wind solar and wave is intermittent. For 40 years now my career has been directed by my interest in batteries. I have an idea for a really cheap battery and I am working to turn it into a commercial reality.<br />
<br />
== Contact ==<br />
The best way to contact me is Email;<br />
<br />
r at copcutt dot me.uk</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-06-15T01:20:32Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Instructions */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[:File:Warco_Operator's_manual.pdf]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/File:Warco_Operator%27s_manual.pdfFile:Warco Operator's manual.pdf2017-06-15T01:15:22Z<p>RobCopcutt: Warco_Lathe Operator's_manual</p>
<hr />
<div>Warco_Lathe Operator's_manual</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-06-15T00:48:33Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Instructions */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Operator's Manual|Operator's Manual]]<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-06-15T00:46:34Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Warco lathe type GH-1330. It is a quality machine with a lot of power so it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Warco is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. <br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Operator's Manual]]<br />
<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Warco_latheEquipment/Warco lathe2017-06-15T00:39:09Z<p>RobCopcutt: Created page with "Warco lathe type GH-1330"</p>
<hr />
<div>Warco lathe type GH-1330</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/EquipmentEquipment2017-06-15T00:37:30Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Laser-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[File:Makerbot-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printer]]<br />
[[File:Roland-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
[[File:WP_20130509_005.jpg||thumb|320px|link=Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
[[File:Lathe-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Lathe|Lathe]]<br />
[[File:Powertools-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools]]<br />
[[File:Electronics-thumb.jpg|framed|link=Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
[[File:fine_metal_DSC_7694.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine metalwork Workbench]]<br />
[[File:8633913103 92f52a697d c.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking bench]]<br />
[[File:300xq.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
[[File:CircularSaw.PNG|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/5704RK|Makita Circular Saw]]<br />
[[File:Rage3db_1.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Rage 3 Mitre Saw]]<br />
[[File:warco_mill.jpg|thumb|320px|link=Equipment/WarcoMill|Warco Mill]]<br />
<br />
The equipment you can find in Makespace.<br />
<br />
== Using our Equipment ==<br />
<br />
There is a large and growing variety of equipment and tools; some are safe to use, some can be dangerous or are expensive and need training before use. We have divided all the tools below into [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]]. Make sure you understand which class a tool is in before you attempt to use it, and read the associated wiki page.<br />
<br />
Consumables for some equipment can be used and paid for using the [[Honesty boxes]].<br />
<br />
[[The right tool for the job]] has some notes on what tools to use for various tasks.<br />
<br />
Smaller equipment is listed on the [[Things and stuff]] page.<br />
<br />
'''Equipment status''' for the larger items is available [[Equipment_Status|here]].<br />
<br />
== The Workshop ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/BandSaw|Band Saw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/AxminsterBeltDiscSander|Belt and Disc Sander]]<br />
* [[Equipment/5704RK|Circular Saw - Makita ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Router|CNC Router]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Drill_Presses|Drill Presses]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Grinder|Grinder]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe|Lathe - Myford]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Warco lathe|Lathe - Warco]] <br />
* Metalwork Benches<br />
* [[Equipment/WarcoMill|Mill - Warco ]]<br />
* [[Equipment/MitreSawRage3Db|Mitre Saw - Rage 3]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Power_Tools|Power Tools (small)]]<br />
* Woodwork Benches<br />
* [[Equipment/WoodLathe|Woodworking Lathe]] <br />
* [[Equipment/Router|Router and router table]]<br />
<br />
== The Space ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer|3D Printers (FDM)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D_Printer_SLA|3D Printer (SLA)]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Model_Mill|CNC Model Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Electronics_Workbenches|Electronics Workbenches]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Fine_metalwork_bench|Fine Metalwork Bench]] and [[Equipment/Flexible_Shaft_Drill|Flexible Shaft Drill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Glassworking|Glassworking kiln, torch and associated tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Laser_Cutter|Two Laser Cutters]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill|PCB Mill]]<br />
* [http://www.pattesters.co.uk/pat-testers/basic-pat-testers/seaward-primetest-100-pat-tester PrimeTest 100 PAT Tester]<br />
* [[Equipment/VacuumFormer|Vacuum Former]]<br />
* General Tools<br />
** [http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht641-199-piece-diy-tool-kit-with-cant Clarke CHT641 199 Piece DIY Tool Kit With Cantilever Tool Box]<br />
* [[Equipment/Plotter|HP 750C A0 Plotter]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Paper Printers|Paper printers]]<br />
* [[Equipment/CanoScan_LiDE_25|Paper Scanner]]<br />
* [[Equipment/BicycleMaintain|Bicycle Maintenance]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Screenprinting|Screenprinting]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Batteries|Batteries]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Computer_CAD_Workstation|CAD Workstation]]<br />
<br />
== Craft area ==<br />
* [[Equipment/Vinyl_Cutter|Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
* large table for cutting or working at<br />
* [[Equipment/SewingMachine|Sewing Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/TShirtPress|TShirt heat press]]<br />
* PC with CAD software, scanner and link to Vinyl cutter<br />
* [[Equipment/Knitting_Machine| Knitting Machine]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EZcube_Light_Tent| EZcube Light Tent]]<br />
* [[Equipment/EggBot|EggBot]]<br />
<br />
== Classroom ==<br />
* [[Classroom/Projector|Projector]]<br />
* [[Classroom/Seating|Seating]]<br />
<br />
== Proposals and Notes ==<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/CNC_Metal_Mill|CNC Metal Mill]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Hand_Tools|Hand Tools]]<br />
* [[Equipment/PurchasedFromGrant]]<br />
** [[Equipment/BandSaw]]<br />
* [[Equipment/Stained_Glass|Stained Glass]]<br />
* [[Equipment/3D Scanner|3D Scanner]]<br />
<br />
== Related ==<br />
* [[OwnersPage|List of owners and their duties]]<br />
* Full equipment database [http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/ http://makespace-equipment-db.herokuapp.com/].<br />
* [[Infrastructure|Makespace Infrastructure]]<br />
* [[Equipment/ToolClasses|Tool Classes]] - for safety and training requirements.<br />
* [[Equipment/NewKit|New Kit]] - process for adding to our equipment inventory.<br />
* This series of 10 metal working videos of up to an hour each from MIT are well worth watching. Episode 1 covers measuring and marking work, 2 covers band sawing and 3 covers drilling. Episodes 4 to 7 cover milling and 8 is about lathe work. [http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos Introduction to Machine Shop Tools and Skills]</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2016-09-08T00:22:54Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Trained user list */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
The training script is available [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Jei2wuluk728dv71LJ4BJGIson9IU74uLyVKNtf9-tE/edit?usp=sharing here].<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* Owner - Diana Probst<br />
* Owner - Jonathan Waite<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler<br />
* Josh Simpson<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Vincent Sanders<br />
* Mat Greenwood<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Tim Lowsen<br />
* Owen Woods<br />
* Eric Jones<br />
* Martin Lenz<br />
* Adrian Van den Heever<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* David Grech<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Kevin Rathbone<br />
* Rob Voisey<br />
* Al Napp<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Milosz Wasilewski<br />
* John Sidinopoulos<br />
* Alex Gee<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Andy McDonald<br />
* Eric Gowland<br />
* Steve Osbourne<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Geoff Lunn<br />
* Daniel Farrant<br />
* Kristien De Clercq<br />
* Ian McFarlane<br />
* Adam Nightingale<br />
* Zizwani Mhango<br />
* Luke Twydell<br />
* Ed Robertson<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Patrick Riggs<br />
* Charlotte Harvey<br />
* Robin Sterling<br />
* Nicola Westgarth-Flynn<br />
* Phill Banks<br />
* Hugo Keene<br />
* Giovanni Bisutti<br />
* Andrew Cooke<br />
* Daniel Bailey<br />
* Andrea Cipri<br />
* Stephen Harrison<br />
* Craig Easton<br />
* Henry Begg<br />
* Steve Murphy<br />
* Steve Carey<br />
* Jeremy Minton - 17/05/16 JPW<br />
* Jeremy Bentham - 17/05/16 JPW<br />
* Toby Roberts - 17/05/16 JPW<br />
* Thomas Gillespie - 17/05/16 JPW</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2016-04-14T23:20:48Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Trained user list */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler<br />
* Josh Simpson<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Vincent Sanders<br />
* Mat Greenwood<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Tim Lowsen<br />
* Owen Woods<br />
* Eric Jones<br />
* Martin Lenz<br />
* Adrian Van den Heever<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* David Grech<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Kevin Rathbone<br />
* Rob Voisey<br />
* Al Napp<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Milosz Wasilewski<br />
* John Sidinopoulos<br />
* Alex Gee<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Andy McDonald<br />
* Eric Gowland<br />
* Steve Osbourne<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Geoff Lunn<br />
* Daniel Farrant<br />
* Kristien De Clercq<br />
* Ian McFarlane<br />
* Adam Nightingale<br />
* Zizwani Mhango<br />
* Luke Twydell<br />
* Ed Robertson<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Patrick Riggs<br />
* Charlotte Harvey<br />
* Robin Sterling<br />
* Nicola Westgarth-Flynn<br />
* Phill Banks<br />
* Hugo Keene<br />
* Giovanni Bisutti<br />
* Andrew Cooke</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2015-04-29T22:30:27Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler<br />
* Josh Simpson<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Vincent Sanders<br />
* Mat Greenwood<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Tim Lowsen<br />
* Owen Woods<br />
* Eric Jones<br />
* Martin Lenz<br />
* Adrian Van den Heever<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* David Grech<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Kevin Rathbone<br />
* Rob Voisey<br />
* Al Napp<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Milosz Wasilewski<br />
* John Sidinopoulos<br />
* Alex Gee<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Andy McDonald<br />
* Eric Gowland<br />
* Steve Osbourne<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Geoff Lunn<br />
* Daniel Farrant<br />
* Kristien De Clercq<br />
* Ian McFarlane<br />
* Adam Nightingale<br />
* Zizwani Mhango<br />
* Luke Twydell<br />
* Ed Robertson<br />
* Diana Probst<br />
* Patrick Riggs<br />
* Charlotte Harvey<br />
* Robin Sterling<br />
* Nicola Westgarth-Flynn</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/PCB_Mill/RAEquipment/PCB Mill/RA2015-03-11T01:21:57Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Risk assessment for use of PCB Mill. ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Hazards. ===<br />
<br />
* 1) Hair or clothes snagging in the cutting tool .<br />
* 2) Chips in the eyes .<br />
* 3) Fingers trapped in the mechanism. <br />
* 4) Broken cutting tool impact. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Persons at risk. ===<br />
* Operator.<br />
* Persons nearby. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Initial assessment of risk. ===<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Snagging in cutting tool || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyes || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|-<br />
| Fingers trapped || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|-<br />
| Broken tool || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Control measures. ===<br />
* Users will be required to attend training to learn how to use the tool safely.<br />
* Safety glasses will be worn.<br />
* Hold work piece correctly.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Final assessment of risk ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Snagging in cutting tool || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyess || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Fingers trapped || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Broken tool || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Points system ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard severity || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Nil || 1 || Very minor injury, bruise, graze, no risk of disease. <br />
|- <br />
| Slight || 2 || Minor injury, which would allow the individual to continue work after first aid treatment on site or at a local surgery. The duration of the stoppage or treatment is such that the normal flow of work is not seriously interrupted. <br />
|- <br />
| Moderate || 3 || Temporary disability causing injury or disease capable of keeping an individual off work for three days or more and reportable under RIDDOR <br />
|- <br />
| High || 4 || Causing death, serious injury or permanent disability to an individual. <br />
<br />
|- <br />
| Very high || 5 || Causing multiple deaths and widespread destruction eg. fire, building collapse. <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard likelihood || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Remote possibility || 1 || There is really no risk present. Only under freak conditions could there be any possibility of an accident or illness. All reasonable precautions have been taken - This should be the normal state of the workplace. <br />
|- <br />
| Unlikely || 2 || This incident or illness might occur but the probability is low and the risk minimal. <br />
|- <br />
| Possible || 3 || The accident may occur if additional factors precipitate it, but it is unlikely to happen without them. <br />
|- <br />
| Highly likely || 4 || Will happen more often than not. Additional factors could precipitate an incident but it is still likely to happen without this additional factor. <br />
|- <br />
| Inevitable || 5 || If the work continues as it is, there is almost 100% certainty that an accident will happen, for example: <br />
A broken stair or broken rung on a ladder <br />
Bare, exposed electrical conductors <br />
Unstable stacks of heavy boxes <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Risk Rating Score || Definition || Action<br />
|- <br />
| 1 to 4 || Low || No action required <br />
|- <br />
| 5 to 9 || Moderate || Reduce risks if reasonably practicable <br />
|- <br />
| 10 to 15 || High Risk || Priority action to be undertaken <br />
|- <br />
| 16 to 25 || Unacceptable || Action must be taken IMMEDIATELY<br />
|}</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/PCB_Mill/RAEquipment/PCB Mill/RA2015-03-11T01:21:28Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Control measures. */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Risk assessment for use of PCB Mill. ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Hazards. ===<br />
<br />
* 1) Hair or clothes snagging in the cutting tool .<br />
* 2) Chips in the eyes .<br />
* 3) Fingers trapped in the mechanism. <br />
* 4) Broken cutting tool impact. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Persons at risk. ===<br />
* Operator.<br />
* Persons nearby. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Initial assessment of risk. ===<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Snagging in cutting tool || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyes || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|-<br />
| Fingers trapped || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|-<br />
| Broken tool || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Control measures. ===<br />
* Users will be required to attend training to learn how to use the tool safely.<br />
* Safety glasses will be worn.<br />
* Hold work piece correctly.<br />
<br />
=== Final assessment of risk ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Snagging in cutting tool || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyess || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Fingers trapped || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Broken tool || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Points system ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard severity || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Nil || 1 || Very minor injury, bruise, graze, no risk of disease. <br />
|- <br />
| Slight || 2 || Minor injury, which would allow the individual to continue work after first aid treatment on site or at a local surgery. The duration of the stoppage or treatment is such that the normal flow of work is not seriously interrupted. <br />
|- <br />
| Moderate || 3 || Temporary disability causing injury or disease capable of keeping an individual off work for three days or more and reportable under RIDDOR <br />
|- <br />
| High || 4 || Causing death, serious injury or permanent disability to an individual. <br />
<br />
|- <br />
| Very high || 5 || Causing multiple deaths and widespread destruction eg. fire, building collapse. <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard likelihood || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Remote possibility || 1 || There is really no risk present. Only under freak conditions could there be any possibility of an accident or illness. All reasonable precautions have been taken - This should be the normal state of the workplace. <br />
|- <br />
| Unlikely || 2 || This incident or illness might occur but the probability is low and the risk minimal. <br />
|- <br />
| Possible || 3 || The accident may occur if additional factors precipitate it, but it is unlikely to happen without them. <br />
|- <br />
| Highly likely || 4 || Will happen more often than not. Additional factors could precipitate an incident but it is still likely to happen without this additional factor. <br />
|- <br />
| Inevitable || 5 || If the work continues as it is, there is almost 100% certainty that an accident will happen, for example: <br />
A broken stair or broken rung on a ladder <br />
Bare, exposed electrical conductors <br />
Unstable stacks of heavy boxes <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Risk Rating Score || Definition || Action<br />
|- <br />
| 1 to 4 || Low || No action required <br />
|- <br />
| 5 to 9 || Moderate || Reduce risks if reasonably practicable <br />
|- <br />
| 10 to 15 || High Risk || Priority action to be undertaken <br />
|- <br />
| 16 to 25 || Unacceptable || Action must be taken IMMEDIATELY<br />
|}</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/PCB_Mill/RAEquipment/PCB Mill/RA2015-03-11T01:20:12Z<p>RobCopcutt: Created page with " == Risk assessment for use of PCB Mill. == === Hazards. === * 1) Hair or clothes snagging in the cutting tool . * 2) Chips in the eyes . * 3) Fingers trapped in the mechan..."</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Risk assessment for use of PCB Mill. ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Hazards. ===<br />
<br />
* 1) Hair or clothes snagging in the cutting tool .<br />
* 2) Chips in the eyes .<br />
* 3) Fingers trapped in the mechanism. <br />
* 4) Broken cutting tool impact. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Persons at risk. ===<br />
* Operator.<br />
* Persons nearby. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Initial assessment of risk. ===<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Snagging in cutting tool || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyes || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|-<br />
| Fingers trapped || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|-<br />
| Broken tool || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Control measures. ===<br />
* Users will be required to attend training to learn how to use the tool safely.<br />
* Safety glasses will be worn.<br />
* Hold work piece correctly.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Final assessment of risk ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Snagging in cutting tool || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyess || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Fingers trapped || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Broken tool || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Points system ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard severity || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Nil || 1 || Very minor injury, bruise, graze, no risk of disease. <br />
|- <br />
| Slight || 2 || Minor injury, which would allow the individual to continue work after first aid treatment on site or at a local surgery. The duration of the stoppage or treatment is such that the normal flow of work is not seriously interrupted. <br />
|- <br />
| Moderate || 3 || Temporary disability causing injury or disease capable of keeping an individual off work for three days or more and reportable under RIDDOR <br />
|- <br />
| High || 4 || Causing death, serious injury or permanent disability to an individual. <br />
<br />
|- <br />
| Very high || 5 || Causing multiple deaths and widespread destruction eg. fire, building collapse. <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard likelihood || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Remote possibility || 1 || There is really no risk present. Only under freak conditions could there be any possibility of an accident or illness. All reasonable precautions have been taken - This should be the normal state of the workplace. <br />
|- <br />
| Unlikely || 2 || This incident or illness might occur but the probability is low and the risk minimal. <br />
|- <br />
| Possible || 3 || The accident may occur if additional factors precipitate it, but it is unlikely to happen without them. <br />
|- <br />
| Highly likely || 4 || Will happen more often than not. Additional factors could precipitate an incident but it is still likely to happen without this additional factor. <br />
|- <br />
| Inevitable || 5 || If the work continues as it is, there is almost 100% certainty that an accident will happen, for example: <br />
A broken stair or broken rung on a ladder <br />
Bare, exposed electrical conductors <br />
Unstable stacks of heavy boxes <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Risk Rating Score || Definition || Action<br />
|- <br />
| 1 to 4 || Low || No action required <br />
|- <br />
| 5 to 9 || Moderate || Reduce risks if reasonably practicable <br />
|- <br />
| 10 to 15 || High Risk || Priority action to be undertaken <br />
|- <br />
| 16 to 25 || Unacceptable || Action must be taken IMMEDIATELY<br />
|}</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/PCB_MillEquipment/PCB Mill2015-03-11T01:14:51Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / PCB Mill<br />
<br />
[[File:PCBMill.jpg|thumb|460px|right|PCB Mill]]<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Mill_software.JPG|thumb|460px|right|PCB Mill software]]<br />
<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
The PCB mill is a computer controlled (CNC) tool that can be used to cut the tracks for printed circuit boards (PCB). Training is required before members use the equipment because it is easy for users to damage themselves and the tool. Maximum travel is about 300mm in the Y direction, about 190mm in X, and 45mm in Z.<br />
<br />
Machine is a generic 'CNC 3020', easily searchable on e.g. youtube for videos of use and configuration:<br />
<br />
* Configuration with LinuxCNC [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewtDYvcFZZ4 video] <br />
<br />
<div style="background-color:pink"><br />
== ToDo before machine is available for use ==<br />
Mandatory:<br />
* Write instruction manual<br />
* Document what is to be included in inductions<br />
* Install and skim sacrificial bed (done - Luke Twydell 02/02/2015)<br />
* Design and manufacture clamping arrangements (done - Luke Twydell 02/02/2015)<br />
<br />
Desirable:<br />
* Implement X and Y limit switches, and auto-zeroing. (done - Luke Twydell 02/02/2015)<br />
* Sort tool chain for creating gcodes from PCB design files (Gerbers?)<br />
* Build spring-loaded hockey puck for zeroing Z-axis, and implement zeroing procedure (WIP - Luke Twydell 02/02/2015)<br />
<br />
</div><br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
* [[user:WormyOne|Alexis Mather]]<br />
* [[user:tomoinn|Tom Oinn]]<br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
* [[user:Mat-C|Mat Cook]] (tentative)<br />
* [[user:Zoomzoomluke|Luke Twydell]]<br />
<br />
== Health and Safety == <br />
* Power supply to be switched off when changing tools. <br />
* All cutting tools to be kept in their holders until they are required.<br />
* Keep work area clear of waste material and offcuts.<br />
* Check equipment for defects before each use to minimise the risk of possible electrical faults or fire. <br />
* Carbon Dioxide extinguisher to be available for any electrical fires. <br />
* Wear eye protection.<br />
* Do not use outside of the workshop until an enclosure has been built.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/PCB_Mill/RA]].<br />
<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
* '''Do not turn the black knobs on any of the three motors.''' Doing so may generate large voltages and damage the control board. Move only by command from the PC.<br />
<br />
== Tips & Tricks ==<br />
<br />
<br />
== Maintenance ==<br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
To get trained on the mill contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
Sessions are advertised on http://meetup.makespace.org<br />
<br />
More about the training can be found at<br />
* [[Equipment/PCB_Mill/Training|PCB Mill Training]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Further Information ==</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/lathe/RAEquipment/lathe/RA2015-03-11T01:09:57Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Risk assessment for use of Myford lathe. ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Hazards. ===<br />
<br />
* 1) Chips in eyes.<br />
* 2) Hair or clothing caught in rotating parts.<br />
* 3) Cutting tool breaking or getting ejected from holder.<br />
* 4) Sharp objects and chips cutting fingers. <br />
* 5) Dropping heavy parts.<br />
* 6) Objects ejected from chuck. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Persons at risk. ===<br />
* Operator.<br />
* Persons nearby. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Initial assessment of risk. ===<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyes || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|-<br />
| Hair or clothes caught in chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|-<br />
| Cutting tool breaking || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|-<br />
| Cuts from sharp objects || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Injuries from dropped objects || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Objects ejected from chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Control measures. ===<br />
<br />
* Users will be required to attend training to learn how to use the machine safely.<br />
* Safety glasses will be worn.<br />
* Check everything is secure before starting the motor.<br />
* Users will be trained to mount the cutting tools and work pieces safely.<br />
* Always use a brush to clean away chips and swarf.<br />
* Operators to use lifting aids, or ask for assistance, when moving heavy objects.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Final assessment of risk ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyes || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Hair or clothes caught in chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Cutting tool breaking || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Cuts from sharp objects || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Injuries from dropped objects || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Objects ejected from chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Points system ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard severity || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Nil || 1 || Very minor injury, bruise, graze, no risk of disease. <br />
|- <br />
| Slight || 2 || Minor injury, which would allow the individual to continue work after first aid treatment on site or at a local surgery. The duration of the stoppage or treatment is such that the normal flow of work is not seriously interrupted. <br />
|- <br />
| Moderate || 3 || Temporary disability causing injury or disease capable of keeping an individual off work for three days or more and reportable under RIDDOR <br />
|- <br />
| High || 4 || Causing death, serious injury or permanent disability to an individual. <br />
<br />
|- <br />
| Very high || 5 || Causing multiple deaths and widespread destruction eg. fire, building collapse. <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard likelihood || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Remote possibility || 1 || There is really no risk present. Only under freak conditions could there be any possibility of an accident or illness. All reasonable precautions have been taken - This should be the normal state of the workplace. <br />
|- <br />
| Unlikely || 2 || This incident or illness might occur but the probability is low and the risk minimal. <br />
|- <br />
| Possible || 3 || The accident may occur if additional factors precipitate it, but it is unlikely to happen without them. <br />
|- <br />
| Highly likely || 4 || Will happen more often than not. Additional factors could precipitate an incident but it is still likely to happen without this additional factor. <br />
|- <br />
| Inevitable || 5 || If the work continues as it is, there is almost 100% certainty that an accident will happen, for example: <br />
A broken stair or broken rung on a ladder <br />
Bare, exposed electrical conductors <br />
Unstable stacks of heavy boxes <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Risk Rating Score || Definition || Action<br />
|- <br />
| 1 to 4 || Low || No action required <br />
|- <br />
| 5 to 9 || Moderate || Reduce risks if reasonably practicable <br />
|- <br />
| 10 to 15 || High Risk || Priority action to be undertaken <br />
|- <br />
| 16 to 25 || Unacceptable || Action must be taken IMMEDIATELY<br />
|}</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/lathe/RAEquipment/lathe/RA2015-03-11T01:02:37Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Risk assessment for ==<br />
<br />
== use of Myford lathe. ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Hazards. ===<br />
<br />
* 1) Chips in eyes.<br />
* 2) Hair or clothing caught in rotating parts.<br />
* 3) Cutting tool breaking or getting ejected from holder.<br />
* 4) Sharp objects and chips cutting fingers. <br />
* 5) Dropping heavy parts.<br />
* 6) Objects ejected from chuck. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Persons at risk. ===<br />
* Operator.<br />
* Persons nearby. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Initial assessment of risk. ===<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyes || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|-<br />
| Hair or clothes caught in chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|-<br />
| Cutting tool breaking || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|-<br />
| Cuts from sharp objects || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Injuries from dropped objects || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Objects ejected from chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Control measures. ===<br />
<br />
* Users will be required to attend training to learn how to use the machine safely.<br />
* Safety glasses will be worn.<br />
* Check everything is secure before starting the motor.<br />
* Users will be trained to mount the cutting tools and work pieces safely.<br />
* Always use a brush to clean away chips and swarf.<br />
* Operators to use lifting aids, or ask for assistance, when moving heavy objects.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Final assessment of risk ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyes || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Hair or clothes caught in chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Cutting tool breaking || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Cuts from sharp objects || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Injuries from dropped objects || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Objects ejected from chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Points system ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard severity || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Nil || 1 || Very minor injury, bruise, graze, no risk of disease. <br />
|- <br />
| Slight || 2 || Minor injury, which would allow the individual to continue work after first aid treatment on site or at a local surgery. The duration of the stoppage or treatment is such that the normal flow of work is not seriously interrupted. <br />
|- <br />
| Moderate || 3 || Temporary disability causing injury or disease capable of keeping an individual off work for three days or more and reportable under RIDDOR <br />
|- <br />
| High || 4 || Causing death, serious injury or permanent disability to an individual. <br />
<br />
|- <br />
| Very high || 5 || Causing multiple deaths and widespread destruction eg. fire, building collapse. <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard likelihood || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Remote possibility || 1 || There is really no risk present. Only under freak conditions could there be any possibility of an accident or illness. All reasonable precautions have been taken - This should be the normal state of the workplace. <br />
|- <br />
| Unlikely || 2 || This incident or illness might occur but the probability is low and the risk minimal. <br />
|- <br />
| Possible || 3 || The accident may occur if additional factors precipitate it, but it is unlikely to happen without them. <br />
|- <br />
| Highly likely || 4 || Will happen more often than not. Additional factors could precipitate an incident but it is still likely to happen without this additional factor. <br />
|- <br />
| Inevitable || 5 || If the work continues as it is, there is almost 100% certainty that an accident will happen, for example: <br />
A broken stair or broken rung on a ladder <br />
Bare, exposed electrical conductors <br />
Unstable stacks of heavy boxes <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Risk Rating Score || Definition || Action<br />
|- <br />
| 1 to 4 || Low || No action required <br />
|- <br />
| 5 to 9 || Moderate || Reduce risks if reasonably practicable <br />
|- <br />
| 10 to 15 || High Risk || Priority action to be undertaken <br />
|- <br />
| 16 to 25 || Unacceptable || Action must be taken IMMEDIATELY<br />
|}</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/lathe/RAEquipment/lathe/RA2015-03-11T00:55:37Z<p>RobCopcutt: Created page with " == Risk assessment for use of Myford lathe. == === Hazards. === * 1) Chips in eyes. * 2) Hair or clothing caught in rotating parts. * 3) Cutting tool breaking or getting..."</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Risk assessment for <br />
<br />
use of Myford lathe. ==<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Hazards. ===<br />
<br />
* 1) Chips in eyes.<br />
* 2) Hair or clothing caught in rotating parts.<br />
* 3) Cutting tool breaking or getting ejected from holder.<br />
* 4) Sharp objects and chips cutting fingers. <br />
* 5) Dropping heavy parts.<br />
* 6) Objects ejected from chuck. <br />
<br />
=== Persons at risk. ===<br />
* Operator.<br />
* Persons nearby. <br />
<br />
=== Initial assessment of risk. ===<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyes || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 6<br />
|-<br />
| Hair or clothes caught in chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|-<br />
| Cutting tool breaking || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
|-<br />
| Cuts from sharp objects || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Injuries from dropped objects || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 4<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| Objects ejected from chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Control measures. ===<br />
<br />
* Users will be required to attend training to learn how to use the machine safely.<br />
* Safety glasses will be worn.<br />
* Check everything is secure before starting the motor.<br />
* Users will be trained to mount the cutting tools and work pieces safely.<br />
* Always use a brush to clean away chips and swarf.<br />
* Operators to use lifting aids, or ask for assistance, when moving heavy objects.<br />
<br />
=== Final assessment of risk ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard identified || Severity || Probability || Risk Factor<br />
|-<br />
| Chips in eyes || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Hair or clothes caught in chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 3 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 3<br />
|-<br />
| Cutting tool breaking || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Cuts from sharp objects || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Injuries from dropped objects || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
|-<br />
| Objects ejected from chuck || style="text-align:right;" | 1 || style="text-align:right;" | 2 || style="text-align:right;" | 2<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Points system ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard severity || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Nil || 1 || Very minor injury, bruise, graze, no risk of disease. <br />
|- <br />
| Slight || 2 || Minor injury, which would allow the individual to continue work after first aid treatment on site or at a local surgery. The duration of the stoppage or treatment is such that the normal flow of work is not seriously interrupted. <br />
|- <br />
| Moderate || 3 || Temporary disability causing injury or disease capable of keeping an individual off work for three days or more and reportable under RIDDOR <br />
|- <br />
| High || 4 || Causing death, serious injury or permanent disability to an individual. <br />
<br />
|- <br />
| Very high || 5 || Causing multiple deaths and widespread destruction eg. fire, building collapse. <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Hazard likelihood || Points Rating || Definition <br />
|-<br />
| Remote possibility || 1 || There is really no risk present. Only under freak conditions could there be any possibility of an accident or illness. All reasonable precautions have been taken - This should be the normal state of the workplace. <br />
|- <br />
| Unlikely || 2 || This incident or illness might occur but the probability is low and the risk minimal. <br />
|- <br />
| Possible || 3 || The accident may occur if additional factors precipitate it, but it is unlikely to happen without them. <br />
|- <br />
| Highly likely || 4 || Will happen more often than not. Additional factors could precipitate an incident but it is still likely to happen without this additional factor. <br />
|- <br />
| Inevitable || 5 || If the work continues as it is, there is almost 100% certainty that an accident will happen, for example: <br />
A broken stair or broken rung on a ladder <br />
Bare, exposed electrical conductors <br />
Unstable stacks of heavy boxes <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
| Risk Rating Score || Definition || Action<br />
|- <br />
| 1 to 4 || Low || No action required <br />
|- <br />
| 5 to 9 || Moderate || Reduce risks if reasonably practicable <br />
|- <br />
| 10 to 15 || High Risk || Priority action to be undertaken <br />
|- <br />
| 16 to 25 || Unacceptable || Action must be taken IMMEDIATELY<br />
|}</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/LatheEquipment/Lathe2015-03-11T00:44:21Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:Myford.jpg|thumb|420px|right|Our Myford super 7]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Myford super 7 lathe kindly donated to us by Martin Levine. It is a quality machine in fair condition but it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
= Health and Safety =<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
The risk assessment is at [[Equipment/lathe/RA]].<br />
<br />
= Owners =<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]] <br />
<br />
= Training =<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
= Instructions =<br />
<br />
There is a book, "Myford series 7 manual", by Ian Bradley available in the workshop (please do not remove it). We also have a Lathe safety manual from the CRC. These provide a comprehensive guide to using the Myford. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at these publications - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Peripheral tools and accessories =<br />
Photo-list of current [[Equipment/Lathe/Accessories|lathe accessories]].<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Accessories/accessories.htm</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/LatheEquipment/Lathe2015-03-11T00:35:38Z<p>RobCopcutt: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{RedTool}}<br />
<br />
[[Equipment|Equipment]] / Lathe<br />
<br />
[[File:Myford.jpg|thumb|420px|right|Our Myford super 7]]<br />
<br />
= Summary =<br />
<br />
We have a Myford super 7 lathe kindly donated to us by Martin Levine. It is a quality machine in fair condition but it is capable of causing severe injury so it must only be used by those trained to operate it safely. The 'owners' are responsible for training new users and ensuring that it is maintained in a safe condition. <br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Lathe_Gallery_20130407.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Using the lathe =<br />
<br />
The Myford is a metal turning lathe capable of machining circular cuts in material up to about 18cm (7 inches) in diameter and about 45cm (18") long. We also have vertical slides so milling operations can be performed on material up to about 10cm (4") cubed. The lathe is solidly built so with care micrometer level precision can be obtained. We now have a good selection of cutting tools and work handling apparatus so a wide range of different cutting operations can be performed on a wide range of materials. Some of our accessories are listed at <br />
[[http://wiki.makespace.org/Lathe_accessories|Lathe Accessories]]<br />
<br />
== Health and Safety ==<br />
<br />
The workpiece is spun at high speed with great force. Clothing or hair caught in the workpiece will not slow the motor! Before starting take time to check there is nothing likely to be caught in the machine.<br />
<br />
Sharp edged chips can be thrown off the workpiece at high speed so eye protection is important.<br />
<br />
The chuck key left in the chuck when the motor is started could become a missile. Before starting the motor make sure the chuck, and anything mounted in it, will not hit anything.<br />
<br />
Metal turnings have very sharp edges. Avoid touching them whenever possible and use the brush provided to clean up the swarf.<br />
<br />
To achieve real safety operator attitude is key. Trying to achieve unrealistic goals in limited time is the prime cause of accidents. Please take the time to plan your work and gain sufficient knowledge to perform it safely.<br />
<br />
== Owners ==<br />
<br />
The owners are experienced users who have volunteered to ensure members know how to safely operate the lathe before they become approved users. Their next responsibility is to ensure the lathe is in a safe usable condition. Time permitting, they will advise users on how to make best use of the lathe. <br />
<br />
So far the owners are;<br />
* Roger Smith <br />
* [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]] <br />
<br />
== Training ==<br />
<br />
<div style="background:#FADADD; border:1px solid #FFC0CB; padding:5px"><br />
<b>THE LATHE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. ONLY APPROVED OPERATORS ARE PERMITTED TO USE IT.</b><br><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
To get the required training to become an approved operator please contact one of the owners.<br />
<br />
The owners will help users make the best use of the lathe but it must be emphasised that learning to take full advantage of all the capabilities of it takes months of practice. The owners have limited time so members will need to take responsibility for much of their own training. More details about the training can be found at<br />
<br />
* [[Equipment/Lathe/Training|Lathe Training]]<br />
<br />
== Instructions ==<br />
<br />
There is a book, "Myford series 7 manual", by Ian Bradley available in the workshop (please do not remove it). We also have a Lathe safety manual from the CRC. These provide a comprehensive guide to using the Myford. If you want to use the lathe, or simple know what it can do, please have a look at these publications - in Makespace.<br />
<br />
= Maintenance =<br />
<br />
The lathe bed should be frequently brushed clean and re-oiled to minimize wear on the precision slides.<br />
<br />
Three of the bearings have oil pots that need topping up occasionally.<br />
<br />
The two drive belts need replacing if they get worn or damaged.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Peripheral tools and accessories ==<br />
Photo-list of current [[Equipment/Lathe/Accessories|lathe accessories]].<br />
<br />
Running the lathe will require many accessories, there is a suggested list here:<br />
<br />
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Accessories/accessories.htm</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Shiny_New_Tool_ChestsShiny New Tool Chests2015-02-27T01:53:58Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Secure Workshop Metalworking Tool Chest */</p>
<hr />
<div>There's a tentative proposal on the mailing list to get some actually good hand tools, and storage such that these don't get lost and are marked as being good. The hope is that this will encourage people to treat them with respect, and to return them to their homes properly.<br />
<br />
One tool chest makes no sense, we have multiple kinds of tools and multiple places where such things need to be accessed. So, this page is intended to capture the broad categories we need, and the specific tools we want in those categories. Once we have a reasonable idea, we will go and buy good stuff, and the space will have decent small tools (and there will be much rejoicing)<br />
<br />
Please either add to the existing categories, or create a new one if you think that's needed.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] ([[User talk:Tomoinn|talk]]) 00:21, 10 October 2014 (BST)<br />
<br />
== Electronics Workbench Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
Intended to live at or near the electronics workbench, and contain the tools which one needs while working there. Also for projects likely to be assembled and worked on at the large white table in the main space, so focusing on electronics and small to medium scale robotics.<br />
<br />
* Hex drivers<br />
* Wire cutters<br />
* Wire strippers<br />
* Pearl catcher<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* Fine nosed pliers<br />
* SMD helpers (basically small heat-proof steel pointy things)<br />
* Jeweller's screwdrivers<br />
* Adjustable spanners<br />
* Small files<br />
* Dremel bits and tools<br />
* Solder reel holders<br />
* Helping hands<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== Secure Workshop Woodworking Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
Lives in the secure workshop, houses tools which are intended solely for working on wood.<br />
<br />
Prices checked Dec 2014 all rounded to the nearest £; most links to Axminster, otherwise Screwfix. User reviews taken into account where possible; quality always the driving force for the proposal! The following items (when assuming all proposed quantities are ordered and the top-end stuff where choices are given) come to a grant total of £1442.<br />
<br />
* Planes ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-sweetheart-premium-low-angle-block-plane a low block angle: £65], [http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-no-4-1-2-smoothing-plane a 4 1/2 smoothing plane: £60] and a [http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-no-7-jointer-or-try-plane Nr 7 jointer plane: £89])<br />
* Spokeshaves<br />
* Cabinet scrapers ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/lie-nielsen-cabinet-scraper-set 0.8 and 0.5mm: £14], might add a [http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-cabinet-scraper-holder holder: £36] but not a requirement.<br />
* Wood chisels ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/kirschen-1101-bevel-edge-chisel-set Bevel Edge chisel set: £95], we could add mortise chisel and L-shaped chisel, but they appear non-urgent . A good way of storing these is on [http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/60238645/ magnetic knife strips].<br />
* Carving tool set (e.g. [http://www.axminster.co.uk/set-of-12-axminster-carving-tools this set: £34] and make our own replacement handles, [http://www.axminster.co.uk/henry-taylor-5-piece-starter-set £65], or [http://www.axminster.co.uk/kirschen-carving-tool-set £155] if you want to push the boat out.)<br />
* Sharpening system ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/flexcut-slipstrop £14]<br />
* Rasps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-half-round-200mm-rasp a half round one: £14] and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-second-cut-cabinet-rasp a second cut cabinet rasp: £17]<br />
* Brace and bit [http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-carpenters-brace-250mm £24]<br />
* Wood drill bits<br />
- Forstner bits: ([http://www.screwfix.com/p/forstner-bits-16-piece-set/83345?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area2&_requestid=84856#_=p 16 piece set: £35]<br />
- Spade bits: ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-selfcut-speed-flat-bits-set 6 piece set (16/18/20/22/25/32mm): £26]<br />
- Brad-point bits:([http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-brad-point-drill-bits-with-hex-shanks 2,3,4,5,6mm: £8])<br />
* Set of hole saws ([http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-holesaws-15-piece-kit/93131 Titan set 15 pieces £38] or [http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-progressor-holesaw-set-14pcs/34715 Top-end Bosch set £89]<br />
* Set of countersink bits ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/fisch-sp-wood-countersink-hex-shank a 10 and 16mm bit: £13]<br />
* Plug cutter set (Top end: [http://www.axminster.co.uk/8-piece-matching-plug-and-bit-sets-8-15mm 8-15mm: £30] and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/8-piece-matching-plug-and-bit-sets-15-30mm 15-30mm: £49]. Medium end: [http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-tapered-snug-plug-cutters Seperate 6, 8 and 10mm: £50])<br />
* Sanding blocks ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/hermes-four-sided-sanding-block £1 each] suggest 5 each for 60, 100 and 200 grid)<br />
* Sanding paper ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/resin-bonded-aluminium-oxide-abrasive-roll-90mm-x-10m 10 meter long rolls £9] Suggest one for each of 80, 100, 120 and 180.<br />
* Wood saws, e.g. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-fineline-saw-pack £41]<br />
* Coping saw ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-coping-saw Faithful: £7] suggest 3 times and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-coping-saw-blades Blades: 5 blades 12tpi 160mm £4 per pack] suggest 5 packs<br />
* Fretsaw ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-fretsaw Faithful: £8], suggest 3 times and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-fretsaw-blades-pkt-12 Blades: 12 blades 130mm])<br />
* Flushcut saw ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-compound-mitre-saw £34])<br />
* Screwdrivers: Slot, Philips, Pozidrive (and maybe hex & torx). Stubby as well as normal length.<br/>http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-fatmax-20-piece-screwdriver-set (lacks PZ3 and Torx) £62.35 inc. vat<br />
* One-handed clamps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/quick-grip-irwin-mini-bar-clamp-twin-pack 150mm £10 and 300mm £12] Suggest 4 of each<br />
* A set of panel clamps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-panel-clamp £46])<br />
* F Clamps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-f-cramps 600mm £18 each, 2 times and 400mm £14 each 2 times])<br />
* Bevel setter ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-metric-bevel-setter £31]<br />
* Marking gauge and mortice gauge ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/crown-153-mortice-gauge £22])<br />
* Marking knife ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-marking-knife £7])<br />
* Bradawl ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/crown-square-blade-bradawl £7])<br />
* Hammers ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/vaughan-su7-upholstery-hammer-200g Upholstery hammer £20] and 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/roughneck-claw-hammer-454g-16oz Claw hammers £11])<br />
* Set of punches (centre, pin, drift...) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/8-piece-combined-nail-centre-punch-set £11]<br />
* Mallets ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-carpenters-mallet Faithful £9] suggest two)<br />
* Levels ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-fatmax-torpedo-level 25cm £17], <br />
* ...<br />
<br />
Going wild:<br />
* Moisture meter<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
Not clear (previous versions of the list):<br />
* Framing square (we have a selection of these already?)<br />
* Squares, combination square, sliding Bevel Gauge (and maybe a mini one too)<br />
* Staple gun (we have a mechanical one already; we could go pneumatic?)<br />
<br />
<br />
This probably won't be a chest, it will be wall, perhaps?<br />
<br />
== Secure Workshop Metalworking Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
Lives in the secure workshop, houses tools which are intended solely for working on metal.<br />
<br />
* Metal drill bits. Large diameter to 25mm http://www.tilgear.info/cutting-tools/threading-reaming-drilling/drill-bits-drill-accessories/drill-sets/rs1325set--reduced-shank-drill-set-8-piece-set- £39.75 + VAT.<br />
* Metal files<br />
* Hacksaws<br />
* Taps and dies<br />
** Mat says: decent set with first, second and finish. I have this set [http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info_SCT109_.html] which is worlds apart from the single tap versions. Downside is that the individual taps are not individually replaceable.<br />
* Centre punches<br />
* Scribers<br />
* Riveter (preferably lazy tongs)<br />
* Stud extractors (male and female styles)<br />
* Broken screw extractor(s)<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== "Extra" Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
General tools, useful all around the space for larger pieces of work. I suggest this lives just inside or just outside of the secure workshop if we can find space for it.<br />
<br />
* Socket wrench set<br />
* Larger adjustable spanners<br />
* Larger screwdrivers<br />
* Knives<br />
* [http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp;jsessionid=5UZXK5S5N01R2CQLCIPZOXQ?N=411&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=irwin+bolt+grip&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&exposeLevel2Refinement=true&suggestions=false&ref=globalsearch&_requestid=366599 Bolt grip set and expansion pack]<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== General Use (Orange) Tool Chests ==<br />
<br />
Sets intended to be take to your work area when you need a "standard" set of tools<br />
<br />
3 sets to be purchased initially<br />
<br />
* Screwdrivers Slot, Philips 0-2, PZ 0-2: http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-fatmax-20-piece-screwdriver-set £62.35 inc. VAT<br />
* http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-socket-spanner-pliers-set £174.95 inc. VAT<br />
* "Penknife-style" metric Allen keys http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/folding-key-sets/2972676/?origin=PSF_438948 £5.40 + VAT<br />
** Mat says: I love everything else, disagree here. Hate these things, they're fiddly to use, fold when you don't want them to, and don't work in confined spaces.<br />
** Mat says: I suggest - http://www.axminster.co.uk/wiha-ergostar-hex-key-set<br />
** Mat says: and http://www.axminster.co.uk/wiha-ball-end-torx-key-set or similar<br />
* Junior hacksaw<br />
* Small wire cutters<br />
* Jewellers' Screwdriver set<br />
* Flight case to contain all the above</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Shiny_New_Tool_ChestsShiny New Tool Chests2015-02-27T01:52:30Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Secure Workshop Metalworking Tool Chest */</p>
<hr />
<div>There's a tentative proposal on the mailing list to get some actually good hand tools, and storage such that these don't get lost and are marked as being good. The hope is that this will encourage people to treat them with respect, and to return them to their homes properly.<br />
<br />
One tool chest makes no sense, we have multiple kinds of tools and multiple places where such things need to be accessed. So, this page is intended to capture the broad categories we need, and the specific tools we want in those categories. Once we have a reasonable idea, we will go and buy good stuff, and the space will have decent small tools (and there will be much rejoicing)<br />
<br />
Please either add to the existing categories, or create a new one if you think that's needed.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] ([[User talk:Tomoinn|talk]]) 00:21, 10 October 2014 (BST)<br />
<br />
== Electronics Workbench Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
Intended to live at or near the electronics workbench, and contain the tools which one needs while working there. Also for projects likely to be assembled and worked on at the large white table in the main space, so focusing on electronics and small to medium scale robotics.<br />
<br />
* Hex drivers<br />
* Wire cutters<br />
* Wire strippers<br />
* Pearl catcher<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* Fine nosed pliers<br />
* SMD helpers (basically small heat-proof steel pointy things)<br />
* Jeweller's screwdrivers<br />
* Adjustable spanners<br />
* Small files<br />
* Dremel bits and tools<br />
* Solder reel holders<br />
* Helping hands<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== Secure Workshop Woodworking Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
Lives in the secure workshop, houses tools which are intended solely for working on wood.<br />
<br />
Prices checked Dec 2014 all rounded to the nearest £; most links to Axminster, otherwise Screwfix. User reviews taken into account where possible; quality always the driving force for the proposal! The following items (when assuming all proposed quantities are ordered and the top-end stuff where choices are given) come to a grant total of £1442.<br />
<br />
* Planes ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-sweetheart-premium-low-angle-block-plane a low block angle: £65], [http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-no-4-1-2-smoothing-plane a 4 1/2 smoothing plane: £60] and a [http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-no-7-jointer-or-try-plane Nr 7 jointer plane: £89])<br />
* Spokeshaves<br />
* Cabinet scrapers ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/lie-nielsen-cabinet-scraper-set 0.8 and 0.5mm: £14], might add a [http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-cabinet-scraper-holder holder: £36] but not a requirement.<br />
* Wood chisels ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/kirschen-1101-bevel-edge-chisel-set Bevel Edge chisel set: £95], we could add mortise chisel and L-shaped chisel, but they appear non-urgent . A good way of storing these is on [http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/60238645/ magnetic knife strips].<br />
* Carving tool set (e.g. [http://www.axminster.co.uk/set-of-12-axminster-carving-tools this set: £34] and make our own replacement handles, [http://www.axminster.co.uk/henry-taylor-5-piece-starter-set £65], or [http://www.axminster.co.uk/kirschen-carving-tool-set £155] if you want to push the boat out.)<br />
* Sharpening system ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/flexcut-slipstrop £14]<br />
* Rasps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-half-round-200mm-rasp a half round one: £14] and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-second-cut-cabinet-rasp a second cut cabinet rasp: £17]<br />
* Brace and bit [http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-carpenters-brace-250mm £24]<br />
* Wood drill bits<br />
- Forstner bits: ([http://www.screwfix.com/p/forstner-bits-16-piece-set/83345?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area2&_requestid=84856#_=p 16 piece set: £35]<br />
- Spade bits: ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-selfcut-speed-flat-bits-set 6 piece set (16/18/20/22/25/32mm): £26]<br />
- Brad-point bits:([http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-brad-point-drill-bits-with-hex-shanks 2,3,4,5,6mm: £8])<br />
* Set of hole saws ([http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-holesaws-15-piece-kit/93131 Titan set 15 pieces £38] or [http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-progressor-holesaw-set-14pcs/34715 Top-end Bosch set £89]<br />
* Set of countersink bits ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/fisch-sp-wood-countersink-hex-shank a 10 and 16mm bit: £13]<br />
* Plug cutter set (Top end: [http://www.axminster.co.uk/8-piece-matching-plug-and-bit-sets-8-15mm 8-15mm: £30] and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/8-piece-matching-plug-and-bit-sets-15-30mm 15-30mm: £49]. Medium end: [http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-tapered-snug-plug-cutters Seperate 6, 8 and 10mm: £50])<br />
* Sanding blocks ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/hermes-four-sided-sanding-block £1 each] suggest 5 each for 60, 100 and 200 grid)<br />
* Sanding paper ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/resin-bonded-aluminium-oxide-abrasive-roll-90mm-x-10m 10 meter long rolls £9] Suggest one for each of 80, 100, 120 and 180.<br />
* Wood saws, e.g. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-fineline-saw-pack £41]<br />
* Coping saw ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-coping-saw Faithful: £7] suggest 3 times and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-coping-saw-blades Blades: 5 blades 12tpi 160mm £4 per pack] suggest 5 packs<br />
* Fretsaw ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-fretsaw Faithful: £8], suggest 3 times and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-fretsaw-blades-pkt-12 Blades: 12 blades 130mm])<br />
* Flushcut saw ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-compound-mitre-saw £34])<br />
* Screwdrivers: Slot, Philips, Pozidrive (and maybe hex & torx). Stubby as well as normal length.<br/>http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-fatmax-20-piece-screwdriver-set (lacks PZ3 and Torx) £62.35 inc. vat<br />
* One-handed clamps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/quick-grip-irwin-mini-bar-clamp-twin-pack 150mm £10 and 300mm £12] Suggest 4 of each<br />
* A set of panel clamps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-panel-clamp £46])<br />
* F Clamps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-f-cramps 600mm £18 each, 2 times and 400mm £14 each 2 times])<br />
* Bevel setter ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-metric-bevel-setter £31]<br />
* Marking gauge and mortice gauge ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/crown-153-mortice-gauge £22])<br />
* Marking knife ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-marking-knife £7])<br />
* Bradawl ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/crown-square-blade-bradawl £7])<br />
* Hammers ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/vaughan-su7-upholstery-hammer-200g Upholstery hammer £20] and 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/roughneck-claw-hammer-454g-16oz Claw hammers £11])<br />
* Set of punches (centre, pin, drift...) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/8-piece-combined-nail-centre-punch-set £11]<br />
* Mallets ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-carpenters-mallet Faithful £9] suggest two)<br />
* Levels ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-fatmax-torpedo-level 25cm £17], <br />
* ...<br />
<br />
Going wild:<br />
* Moisture meter<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
Not clear (previous versions of the list):<br />
* Framing square (we have a selection of these already?)<br />
* Squares, combination square, sliding Bevel Gauge (and maybe a mini one too)<br />
* Staple gun (we have a mechanical one already; we could go pneumatic?)<br />
<br />
<br />
This probably won't be a chest, it will be wall, perhaps?<br />
<br />
== Secure Workshop Metalworking Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
Lives in the secure workshop, houses tools which are intended solely for working on metal.<br />
<br />
* Metal drill bits. Large diameter to 25mm ([http://www.tilgear.info/cutting-tools/threading-reaming-drilling/drill-bits-drill-accessories/drill-sets/rs1325set--reduced-shank-drill-set-8-piece-set-]) £39.75 + VAT.<br />
* Metal files<br />
* Hacksaws<br />
* Taps and dies<br />
** Mat says: decent set with first, second and finish. I have this set [http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info_SCT109_.html] which is worlds apart from the single tap versions. Downside is that the individual taps are not individually replaceable.<br />
* Centre punches<br />
* Scribers<br />
* Riveter (preferably lazy tongs)<br />
* Stud extractors (male and female styles)<br />
* Broken screw extractor(s)<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== "Extra" Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
General tools, useful all around the space for larger pieces of work. I suggest this lives just inside or just outside of the secure workshop if we can find space for it.<br />
<br />
* Socket wrench set<br />
* Larger adjustable spanners<br />
* Larger screwdrivers<br />
* Knives<br />
* [http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp;jsessionid=5UZXK5S5N01R2CQLCIPZOXQ?N=411&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=irwin+bolt+grip&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&exposeLevel2Refinement=true&suggestions=false&ref=globalsearch&_requestid=366599 Bolt grip set and expansion pack]<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== General Use (Orange) Tool Chests ==<br />
<br />
Sets intended to be take to your work area when you need a "standard" set of tools<br />
<br />
3 sets to be purchased initially<br />
<br />
* Screwdrivers Slot, Philips 0-2, PZ 0-2: http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-fatmax-20-piece-screwdriver-set £62.35 inc. VAT<br />
* http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-socket-spanner-pliers-set £174.95 inc. VAT<br />
* "Penknife-style" metric Allen keys http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/folding-key-sets/2972676/?origin=PSF_438948 £5.40 + VAT<br />
** Mat says: I love everything else, disagree here. Hate these things, they're fiddly to use, fold when you don't want them to, and don't work in confined spaces.<br />
** Mat says: I suggest - http://www.axminster.co.uk/wiha-ergostar-hex-key-set<br />
** Mat says: and http://www.axminster.co.uk/wiha-ball-end-torx-key-set or similar<br />
* Junior hacksaw<br />
* Small wire cutters<br />
* Jewellers' Screwdriver set<br />
* Flight case to contain all the above</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Shiny_New_Tool_ChestsShiny New Tool Chests2015-02-27T01:47:06Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Secure Workshop Metalworking Tool Chest */</p>
<hr />
<div>There's a tentative proposal on the mailing list to get some actually good hand tools, and storage such that these don't get lost and are marked as being good. The hope is that this will encourage people to treat them with respect, and to return them to their homes properly.<br />
<br />
One tool chest makes no sense, we have multiple kinds of tools and multiple places where such things need to be accessed. So, this page is intended to capture the broad categories we need, and the specific tools we want in those categories. Once we have a reasonable idea, we will go and buy good stuff, and the space will have decent small tools (and there will be much rejoicing)<br />
<br />
Please either add to the existing categories, or create a new one if you think that's needed.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Tomoinn|tmo]] ([[User talk:Tomoinn|talk]]) 00:21, 10 October 2014 (BST)<br />
<br />
== Electronics Workbench Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
Intended to live at or near the electronics workbench, and contain the tools which one needs while working there. Also for projects likely to be assembled and worked on at the large white table in the main space, so focusing on electronics and small to medium scale robotics.<br />
<br />
* Hex drivers<br />
* Wire cutters<br />
* Wire strippers<br />
* Pearl catcher<br />
* Tweezers<br />
* Fine nosed pliers<br />
* SMD helpers (basically small heat-proof steel pointy things)<br />
* Jeweller's screwdrivers<br />
* Adjustable spanners<br />
* Small files<br />
* Dremel bits and tools<br />
* Solder reel holders<br />
* Helping hands<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== Secure Workshop Woodworking Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
Lives in the secure workshop, houses tools which are intended solely for working on wood.<br />
<br />
Prices checked Dec 2014 all rounded to the nearest £; most links to Axminster, otherwise Screwfix. User reviews taken into account where possible; quality always the driving force for the proposal! The following items (when assuming all proposed quantities are ordered and the top-end stuff where choices are given) come to a grant total of £1442.<br />
<br />
* Planes ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-sweetheart-premium-low-angle-block-plane a low block angle: £65], [http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-no-4-1-2-smoothing-plane a 4 1/2 smoothing plane: £60] and a [http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-no-7-jointer-or-try-plane Nr 7 jointer plane: £89])<br />
* Spokeshaves<br />
* Cabinet scrapers ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/lie-nielsen-cabinet-scraper-set 0.8 and 0.5mm: £14], might add a [http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-cabinet-scraper-holder holder: £36] but not a requirement.<br />
* Wood chisels ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/kirschen-1101-bevel-edge-chisel-set Bevel Edge chisel set: £95], we could add mortise chisel and L-shaped chisel, but they appear non-urgent . A good way of storing these is on [http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/60238645/ magnetic knife strips].<br />
* Carving tool set (e.g. [http://www.axminster.co.uk/set-of-12-axminster-carving-tools this set: £34] and make our own replacement handles, [http://www.axminster.co.uk/henry-taylor-5-piece-starter-set £65], or [http://www.axminster.co.uk/kirschen-carving-tool-set £155] if you want to push the boat out.)<br />
* Sharpening system ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/flexcut-slipstrop £14]<br />
* Rasps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-half-round-200mm-rasp a half round one: £14] and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-second-cut-cabinet-rasp a second cut cabinet rasp: £17]<br />
* Brace and bit [http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-carpenters-brace-250mm £24]<br />
* Wood drill bits<br />
- Forstner bits: ([http://www.screwfix.com/p/forstner-bits-16-piece-set/83345?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area2&_requestid=84856#_=p 16 piece set: £35]<br />
- Spade bits: ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-selfcut-speed-flat-bits-set 6 piece set (16/18/20/22/25/32mm): £26]<br />
- Brad-point bits:([http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-brad-point-drill-bits-with-hex-shanks 2,3,4,5,6mm: £8])<br />
* Set of hole saws ([http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-holesaws-15-piece-kit/93131 Titan set 15 pieces £38] or [http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-progressor-holesaw-set-14pcs/34715 Top-end Bosch set £89]<br />
* Set of countersink bits ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/fisch-sp-wood-countersink-hex-shank a 10 and 16mm bit: £13]<br />
* Plug cutter set (Top end: [http://www.axminster.co.uk/8-piece-matching-plug-and-bit-sets-8-15mm 8-15mm: £30] and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/8-piece-matching-plug-and-bit-sets-15-30mm 15-30mm: £49]. Medium end: [http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-tapered-snug-plug-cutters Seperate 6, 8 and 10mm: £50])<br />
* Sanding blocks ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/hermes-four-sided-sanding-block £1 each] suggest 5 each for 60, 100 and 200 grid)<br />
* Sanding paper ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/resin-bonded-aluminium-oxide-abrasive-roll-90mm-x-10m 10 meter long rolls £9] Suggest one for each of 80, 100, 120 and 180.<br />
* Wood saws, e.g. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-fineline-saw-pack £41]<br />
* Coping saw ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-coping-saw Faithful: £7] suggest 3 times and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-coping-saw-blades Blades: 5 blades 12tpi 160mm £4 per pack] suggest 5 packs<br />
* Fretsaw ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-fretsaw Faithful: £8], suggest 3 times and [http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-fretsaw-blades-pkt-12 Blades: 12 blades 130mm])<br />
* Flushcut saw ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-compound-mitre-saw £34])<br />
* Screwdrivers: Slot, Philips, Pozidrive (and maybe hex & torx). Stubby as well as normal length.<br/>http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-fatmax-20-piece-screwdriver-set (lacks PZ3 and Torx) £62.35 inc. vat<br />
* One-handed clamps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/quick-grip-irwin-mini-bar-clamp-twin-pack 150mm £10 and 300mm £12] Suggest 4 of each<br />
* A set of panel clamps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-panel-clamp £46])<br />
* F Clamps ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-f-cramps 600mm £18 each, 2 times and 400mm £14 each 2 times])<br />
* Bevel setter ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-metric-bevel-setter £31]<br />
* Marking gauge and mortice gauge ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/crown-153-mortice-gauge £22])<br />
* Marking knife ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-marking-knife £7])<br />
* Bradawl ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/crown-square-blade-bradawl £7])<br />
* Hammers ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/vaughan-su7-upholstery-hammer-200g Upholstery hammer £20] and 3 [http://www.axminster.co.uk/roughneck-claw-hammer-454g-16oz Claw hammers £11])<br />
* Set of punches (centre, pin, drift...) [http://www.axminster.co.uk/8-piece-combined-nail-centre-punch-set £11]<br />
* Mallets ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/faithfull-carpenters-mallet Faithful £9] suggest two)<br />
* Levels ([http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-fatmax-torpedo-level 25cm £17], <br />
* ...<br />
<br />
Going wild:<br />
* Moisture meter<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
Not clear (previous versions of the list):<br />
* Framing square (we have a selection of these already?)<br />
* Squares, combination square, sliding Bevel Gauge (and maybe a mini one too)<br />
* Staple gun (we have a mechanical one already; we could go pneumatic?)<br />
<br />
<br />
This probably won't be a chest, it will be wall, perhaps?<br />
<br />
== Secure Workshop Metalworking Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
Lives in the secure workshop, houses tools which are intended solely for working on metal.<br />
<br />
* Metal drill bits. Large diameter to 25mm [http://www.tilgear.info/cutting-tools/threading-reaming-drilling/drill-bits-drill-accessories/drill-sets/rs1325set--reduced-shank-drill-set-8-piece-set-] £39.75 + VAT.<br />
* Metal files<br />
* Hacksaws<br />
* Taps and dies<br />
** Mat says: decent set with first, second and finish. I have this set [http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info_SCT109_.html] which is worlds apart from the single tap versions. Downside is that the individual taps are not individually replaceable.<br />
* Centre punches<br />
* Scribers<br />
* Riveter (preferably lazy tongs)<br />
* Stud extractors (male and female styles)<br />
* Broken screw extractor(s)<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== "Extra" Tool Chest ==<br />
<br />
General tools, useful all around the space for larger pieces of work. I suggest this lives just inside or just outside of the secure workshop if we can find space for it.<br />
<br />
* Socket wrench set<br />
* Larger adjustable spanners<br />
* Larger screwdrivers<br />
* Knives<br />
* [http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp;jsessionid=5UZXK5S5N01R2CQLCIPZOXQ?N=411&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=irwin+bolt+grip&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&exposeLevel2Refinement=true&suggestions=false&ref=globalsearch&_requestid=366599 Bolt grip set and expansion pack]<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
== General Use (Orange) Tool Chests ==<br />
<br />
Sets intended to be take to your work area when you need a "standard" set of tools<br />
<br />
3 sets to be purchased initially<br />
<br />
* Screwdrivers Slot, Philips 0-2, PZ 0-2: http://www.axminster.co.uk/stanley-fatmax-20-piece-screwdriver-set £62.35 inc. VAT<br />
* http://www.axminster.co.uk/bahco-socket-spanner-pliers-set £174.95 inc. VAT<br />
* "Penknife-style" metric Allen keys http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/folding-key-sets/2972676/?origin=PSF_438948 £5.40 + VAT<br />
** Mat says: I love everything else, disagree here. Hate these things, they're fiddly to use, fold when you don't want them to, and don't work in confined spaces.<br />
** Mat says: I suggest - http://www.axminster.co.uk/wiha-ergostar-hex-key-set<br />
** Mat says: and http://www.axminster.co.uk/wiha-ball-end-torx-key-set or similar<br />
* Junior hacksaw<br />
* Small wire cutters<br />
* Jewellers' Screwdriver set<br />
* Flight case to contain all the above</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2014-12-15T02:28:01Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Trained user list */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler<br />
* Josh Simpson<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Vincent Sanders<br />
* Mat Greenwood<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Tim Lowsen<br />
* Owen Woods<br />
* Eric Jones<br />
* Martin Lenz<br />
* Adrian Van den Heever<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* David Grech<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Kevin Rathbone<br />
* Rob Voisey<br />
* Al Napp<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Milosz Wasilewski<br />
* John Sidinopoulos<br />
* Alex Gee<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Andy McDonald<br />
* Eric Gowland<br />
* Steve Osbourne<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Geoff Lunn<br />
* Daniel Farrant<br />
* Kristien De Clercq<br />
* Ian McFarlane<br />
* Adam Nightingale<br />
* Zizwani Mhango</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2014-12-15T02:26:36Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Trained user list */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler<br />
* Josh Simpson<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Vincent Sanders<br />
* Mat Greenwood<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Tim Lowsen<br />
* Owen Woods<br />
* Eric Jones<br />
* Martin Lenz<br />
* Adrian Van den Heever<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* David Grech<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Kevin Rathbone<br />
* Rob Voisey<br />
* Al Napp<br />
* Jon Green<br />
* Milosz Wasilewski<br />
* John Sidinopoulos<br />
* Alex Gee<br />
* Jonny Waite<br />
* Andy Mchundil<br />
* Eric Gowland<br />
* Steve Osbourne<br />
* Jennifer Herbert<br />
* Geoff Lunn<br />
* Daniel Farrant<br />
* Kristien De Clercq<br />
* Ian McFarlane<br />
* Adam Nightingale<br />
* Zizwani Mhango</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2014-08-10T18:55:08Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Trained user list */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler<br />
* Josh Simpson<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Vincent Sanders<br />
* Mat Greenwood<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Tim Lowsen<br />
* Owen Woods<br />
* Eric Jones<br />
* Martin Lenz<br />
* Adrian Van den Heever<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* David Grech<br />
* David Horsnell<br />
* Paul Holland<br />
* Kevin Rathbone<br />
* Rob Voisey</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2014-06-04T01:09:42Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Trained user list */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler<br />
* Josh Simpson<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Daniel Garden<br />
* Vincent Sanders<br />
* Mat Greenwood<br />
* Paul Osborn<br />
* Tim Lowsen<br />
* Owen Woods<br />
* Eric Jones<br />
* Martin Lenz<br />
* Adrian Van den Heever<br />
* Mark Cheverton<br />
* David Grech<br />
* David Horsnell</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2014-04-06T16:32:37Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Trained user list */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler<br />
* Josh Simpson<br />
* Emyr James<br />
* Daniel Garden</div>RobCopcutthttp://wiki.makespace.org/Equipment/Lathe/TrainingEquipment/Lathe/Training2014-02-19T02:06:54Z<p>RobCopcutt: /* Trained user list */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Lathe Training =<br />
<br />
Lathe training is done in group sessions. The tour of the machine is followed by an explanation of the hazards. Each member then participates in a short construction project to learn what it feels, sounds and looks like to do it properly. It should take 2 to 2.5 hours.<br />
<br />
The main danger is getting caught in the work because the motor will not stop if this happens. Users must not wear loose clothing, or allow hair to get near the workpiece.<br />
<br />
Gloves are NOT recommended. <br />
<br />
Chips from the work are a hazard to eyes so eye protection is essential.<br />
<br />
Before starting the motor make sure the chuck is moving freely and that the key is out.<br />
<br />
The swarf, particularly steel swarf has sharp edges so a brush should be used to clean everything.<br />
<br />
<br />
= Trained user list =<br />
* Owner - Roger Smith<br />
* Owner - [[user:RobCopcutt|Robert Copcutt]]<br />
<br />
<br />
*Mark Tillotson - (Robert Copcutt 2013)<br />
*Chris Abri<br />
*Tom Ingham<br />
*Martin De Selincourt<br />
*Peter Sewell<br />
*Ben Evans<br />
*Adrian Carr<br />
*Antonio Barragan<br />
*Tom Oinn<br />
*Maciek Piztek<br />
*Pop Sharma<br />
*John Clamp<br />
*Shareef Jalloq<br />
*Errol McMullen<br />
*Patrick Greaney<br />
*Renee Chow<br />
*Joe Tapply<br />
*David Webb<br />
*John Sturdy<br />
*Peter Provis<br />
*Rachel Rayns<br />
*Marco Cosic<br />
*Kevin Latter<br />
*Michael Thomas<br />
*Richard Mitchell<br />
*Lewis Williams<br />
*Dan Tidhar<br />
*Marco Aita<br />
*John Simm<br />
*Andrew Lipson<br />
*Benjamin Kidder<br />
*Harry Braviner<br />
*Esther Leighton<br />
*Christie Nel<br />
*Stuart Wilson<br />
*Kim Spence-Jones<br />
* Matt Grimes<br />
* Jon Aas<br />
* Aleusandar Tomic<br />
* Richard Fosh<br />
* Fergus Riche<br />
* Toby Moncaster<br />
* Riccardo Gherardi<br />
* Peter Knight<br />
* Jason White<br />
* Robert Karpinski<br />
* Ben Butler</div>RobCopcutt