Equipment/Fine metalwork bench - Revision history

Marschalka at 15:07, 8 May 2022

2022-05-08T15:07:24Z

Andy mcdonald: /* Owners */

2020-10-30T11:53:40Z

‎Owners

JWoolf: /* Trained */

2018-05-18T16:32:15Z

‎Trained

JWoolf: /* Owners */

2018-05-18T16:29:25Z

‎Owners

PeterS: /* Trained */

2014-03-26T22:15:07Z

‎Trained

PeterS: /* Workholding */

2013-09-08T09:34:12Z

‎Workholding

PeterS: /* Soldering */

2013-09-08T09:31:52Z

‎Soldering

PeterS: /* How To: Jeweller's Files */

2013-09-08T09:27:14Z

‎How To: Jeweller's Files

PeterS: /* Workholding */

2013-09-08T09:26:34Z

‎Workholding

PeterS: /* Files and saws */

2013-09-08T09:26:18Z

‎Files and saws

@@ Line 297: / Line 297: @@
 Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.
-Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the solder paste we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch).   They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.
+Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the solder paste we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch). They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint. In addition to that, they contain lead, which will contaminate your piece.
 To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement).  Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them.  They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.
@@ Line 309: / Line 309: @@
 * Find the small gas torch (see above).  For larger pieces you'll need the bigger propane torch.
 * Arrange things so that the pieces will be held in contact while you heat them up.  Sometimes they can just be resting next to or on top of one another (on the insulated block); sometimes a piece can be bent to hold the two surfaces in contact (e.g. for a ring); sometimes it's useful to hold one in the reverse-action tweezers (attached to a third-hand base) in contact with the other resting on the block; sometimes one needs iron binding wire and more ingenuity.
-* Dissassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste.  This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going).  You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring).
+* Disassemble your arrangement to apply some solder paste.  This is in a syringe - it's very stiff, so you'll need to push (but pull back on the plunger when you've got enough, otherwise it will keep going).  You only need a little bit (e.g. a line for a ring, or a 1mm cube for a jumpring). Alternatively use solder strip.
 * Warm your piece up with the torch. You want to get it quickly up to temperature, otherwise the flux will all burn off too early.  And you need all the metal to be hot - focus the flame first on the bulk of the piece, not on your joint  (solder likes to flow towards hot).   The hottest part of the flame is just in front of the blue cone.
 [[Image:fine_metal_DSC_7690.jpg|300px]]
 * Watch the joint carefully (taking care not to burn yourself, point the torch at anything flammable, or inhale the fumes). When it's hot enough (a glowing orange) and the solder melts, you should see a flash of the molten silver flowing. Keep the flame there for just a moment (1s?) longer, then take it away.
-* Don't try to re-heat or mess about - it has to work in one go or not at all.
+* In most cases, it is not recommended to reheat if solder did not flow- oxide layer is formed on the surface and it will reduce the chance of solder sticking to metal. Exception may apply if you use ceramic flux (the expensive one).
-* Let the piece cool - perhaps picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
+* Let the piece cool either in the air or by picking it up with tweezers or pliers (but not the fine pliers!) and dunking it in water (watch out for splutters).
 * Pickle it or use abrasives to remove any firescale.

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:53, 30 October 2020
Line 16:		Line 16:

	Andy Mcdonald		Andy Mcdonald
		+	Shiona Morrison

	==Trained==		==Trained==

@@ Line 19: / Line 19: @@
 ==Trained==
-AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS; MH, MI, MT; AT, KD, MG, MC; MC, A, AD, NP, RG;
+List held privately.
 == Health and Safety ==

@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 ==Owners==
-[[User:PeterS|Peter Sewell]], Matt Pendlebury
+Andy Mcdonald
 ==Trained==

@@ Line 19: / Line 19: @@
 ==Trained==
-AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS
+AH, HW, STJ, MP, AJ, DT, AC, WYRC, JAB, JK, PS, RS; MH, MI, MT; AT, KD, MG, MC; MC, A, AD, NP, RG;
 == Health and Safety ==

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:34, 8 September 2013
Line 59:		Line 59:

	[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg\|300px]]		[[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg\|300px]]
		+
		+	* a joint cutter [http://www.suttontools.co.uk/hand-tools/joint-levelers-1/economy-joint-levelling-tool.html] (a V-block with a clamp to hold fine tube, an end stop and a slot for a saw blade, for making square cuts in fine tube)

	==Marking out==		==Marking out==

@@ Line 272: / Line 272: @@
 * crock pot for keeping pickle warm
 * hard silver solder paste (£33.61) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/Hard-Silver-Solder-Paste-30g-Syringe-prcode-PAT-075]  (consumable)  (this is great for small-scale work; for bigger things one wants strip solder and flux)
 <!--[[Image:fine_metalwork_soldering.jpg|300px]] -->
@@ Line 292: / Line 294: @@
 Silver soldering can be used to create a strong join between two metal surfaces - normally silver, but it can also be used for joining copper, brass, and even steel (though the pickling for steel will be different). For silver, it should be possible to make an essentially invisible join.
-Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the one we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch).   They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.
+Silver solders are high-melting-point alloys; the solder paste we have in Makespace is a silver/copper/zinc alloy with a melting point of 770 C (usually attained with a gas torch).   They are not to be confused with the lead-based solders used for electronics, which have melting points less than 200 C (usually applied with a soldering iron) and do not produce a mechanically strong joint.
 To make a good solder joint, good preparation is essential. Molten solder is very runny: it flows freely over the surface of clean metal and flows into a hot joint by capillary action, but it is very bad at filling gaps (it's not like a glue or cement).  Hence, the two bits of metal to be joined have to be shaped to fit precisely, ideally with no visible gap (less than 0.1mm, perhaps) between them.  They also have to be clean, with no oxide layer or grease. Freshly cut or filed silver is fine.
-To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux.  The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings").  For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux.
+To keep the metal clean while it gets up to temperature, and to help the solder run, one also needs a flux.  The silver solder we have is in paste form, pre-mixed with a flux, which is convenient for making small solder joints (e.g. joining the ends of a ring, attaching earring parts, or making little loops ("jump rings").  For bigger pieces one usually uses snippets of solder sheet and a separate flux (which we also have).
 So:

@@ Line 154: / Line 154: @@
 permanently damaged by contamination when they are soldered.
-There are needle files (cut 2) and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat File, also
+There are needle files (cut 2), two 6"/150mm Vallorbe Flat Files, and a 6"/150mm Vallorbe half-round file, also
 Cut 2.  Files come in different finenesses; cut 2 is a medium
 general-purpose grade.

@@ Line 56: / Line 56: @@
 ==Workholding==
-* 2*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]
+* 4*Bench Peg And Anvil (these clamp on to a bench edge, to support work) [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bench-Peg-And-Anvil-prcode-999-082]
 [[Image:fine_metalwork_bench_peg.jpg|300px]]
 ==Marking out==

@@ Line 83: / Line 83: @@
 ==Files and saws==
-* 6"/150mm Flat File, Cut 2 Vallorbe
+* two 6"/150mm Flat Files, Cut 2 Vallorbe
 * Set Of 12 Needle Files, 16cm - All Cut2 (one has to avoid contaminating silver with iron, so we'll want separate files for ferrous metals in addition to this)
-* Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
+* two Grobet/vallorbe Saw Frame Adjustable [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Grobetvallorbe-Saw-Frame-Adjustable-prcode-999-73B]
 * 6" Deep Adjustable Saw Frame [http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/6-Deep-Adjustable-Saw-Frame-prcode-999-738];
 * Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, Bundle Of 12*12 (£30.82); Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 6/0, Bundle Of 12 (£3.70)  (those saw blades are consumables - they break easily)